UKC

Climbing Jargon....

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 jack1996 22 Jan 2011
What's it called when you try to onsight a route, but fall on it, and then carry on to the top anyway (lead-climbing)? is there a special term for this e.g like red pointing?
 Quarryboy 22 Jan 2011
In reply to jack1996: Dogging?
 Chi Cheng 22 Jan 2011
In reply to jack1996:
If you lower off, pull to rope out of the gear and restart: Ground Up
If you just sit on the rope and don't lower off: Dogging
If you lower off and don't pull the rope down: yo yo ing? (I think)
OP jack1996 22 Jan 2011
In reply to Chi Cheng: why is it called dogging?
 Alyson 22 Jan 2011
In reply to jack1996: I don't know for sure but it's probably from 'dogged' - ie tenacious, stubbornly persevering, refusing to give up.
 Jonny Tee 69 23 Jan 2011
In reply to jack1996:

We normally call it f*cking it up.

The route is usually called b*stard.
 john arran 23 Jan 2011
In reply to Alyson:
> ...it's probably from 'dogged' - ie tenacious, stubbornly persevering, refusing to give up.

Not so. It's from "hangdog", because of the shame of having to hang on the gear.


hangdog
(adj.)
having a dejected or guilty appearance; shamefaced:
e.g. the hangdog look of a condemned man
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 23 Jan 2011
In reply to john arran:

Ha - I knew dogging came from hangdogging but never made the link! Like it.

Chris
 Alyson 23 Jan 2011
In reply to john arran: Ha! I like that better I think.
 Graham 24 Jan 2011
In reply to Alyson:
I've always been under the impression that yo-yoing referred to top roping a climb many times (up and down and up and down).

I've always referred to lowering off from a high point and not pulling the rope as "I'm going to come down and rest for a spell"
 john arran 24 Jan 2011
In reply to Graham:
> I've always been under the impression that yo-yoing referred to top roping a climb many times (up and down and up and down).

... then you've always been under the wrong impression!

Yo-yoing resulted from the tenet that pre-practising moves was not permitted, so after failing on any attempt a climber was expected to lower immediately to the ground and try again from there. The temptation to hang and check out the next holds or the next move was so great that this style was constantly open to abuse and never going to persist, but it still took quite a few years before what we now call headpointing would take over.

 Al Evans 24 Jan 2011
In reply to john arran: Sorry John, surely you mean redpointing, I thought headpointing was just where you got the moves wired on a top rope?
 john arran 24 Jan 2011
In reply to Al Evans:

Redpointing and Headpointing are pretty much the same thing, except that one is for sport routes and one for trad. Any amount of practice and top-roping is fine but the redpoint/headpoint ascent itself needs to be no-falls.

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