This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (203) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=445332
Repeat posters - 40
AJM
grubes - not so well. Hope you've recovered...
mattrm - good work on the running. Hope Scotland was good, you've worked hard for it
phja - outdoors can be training too
Kevster - nice work on the 7b+
Miles - quiet week due to illness - hope this week went better
Thickhead - congrats!
Sankey - steady week
andy - sounds like a good week
Charlie_Zero - overworked and ill - not a good combo. Hope things have gone better this week
TonyB - I hate downclimbing on lapping stuff - my old 50m lead rope needs the end chopping anyway so I'm thinking I might go for it and trim down to 30m or so and do the stuff catt was suggesting last week (or the one before) to avoid it.
Daniel Heath - you've got to be in the game to stand a chance of winning it, I reckon - sometimes you get beaten, but there's no way you win without trying
Nexonen - variety is the spice of life and all that
Jeriqo - did you get more miles in this week?
Steve John B - building up slow is good - the spate of finger and elbow tweaks that come around Sept each year is sure proof of that!
richardh - hope you've found a design that works for you - having it there is good for the extra sessions snatched betwen other stuff. Fortunately I have a tolerant climbing partner so mine lives in the living room by the TV
Stone Donkey - bad luck on the wall session. Keep plugging away at it - endurance training is good
JimmyKay - crushing in Chorro. You don't need luck
seankenny - good effort on the 6c
Mark Torrance - steady if slow week
biscuit - I find if I've been off it for a while the power for throwing at things is one of the fastest to go. I'm sure it will be back soon, now you've started focus on the harder boulders again. Interested to see your comments about 16 week P-E periods, which is a really new one for me, most places tend to say that you shouldn't do p-e for too long because continually flooding your muscles with lactic isn't that good for them. Learn something new every day.....
agibb - its not something I follow religiously, but from what others have said, longer periods seem better. I tend to only really think about it in reference to trips, and only in reference to my indoor training choices, in that I usually am fairly bouldering-focused and only switch to p-e a few weeks before a trip.This year has been a bit different in that I've been doing more roped work over the winter than previously, so it will be interesting to see how keeping that background volume stuff ramping up has helped
Eagle River - hope finger is on the mend
chris05 - reckon that 7A should be a sure thing next time, from the sounds of it
plexiglass_nick - as others have said, I wouldn't get worked up over a poor endurance session on your fourth day on
jkarran - happy birthday for this week....
catt - any more luck with weekend rock? Sounds like the training is going pretty well
viking - bad luck on the weekend
petestack - well done for keeping going in what sounds like pretty rough weather
Steve Perry (Pezz) - good work on the lead session, great to see that confidence
leon - hard luck. Hope it gets better soon
Liam M - good week
andy farnell - good you are seeing improvement on that Sunday session
fimm - its always nice when you perform better than those who traditionally used to be better than you
Curious Yellow - sounds like a decent week
Murd - at least also you'll be busy on the road during a time that isn't the summer, so you get the chance to get out more in the better weather
jamesgreenfield - overworked
IainRUK - bad luck on the break, but at least it doesn't affect your main training stuff
Eric the Red - good week
Goonie - glad the new training plan is working out. I had a look a while back and couldn't track down an easy "whats it all about" sort of thing - do you know of one? I found some stuff about the idea of fitness and fatigue, but you seem to have a lot more detailed plans than that - is that your own work, or did you get that by digging deeper than I did? I suspect I just gave up too soon....
New posters/returnees - 5
Niels - welcome. V8 flash is good stuff
Karl Wooffindin - welcome back...!
ayuplass - enjoy Scotland
Shauna - of course - welcome. Looking at your goals, I've always found it takes more than 1 fall per week to keep the head in condition
The New NickB - welcome back
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (203) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=445332
Repeat posters - 40
AJM
grubes - not so well. Hope you've recovered...
mattrm - good work on the running. Hope Scotland was good, you've worked hard for it
phja - outdoors can be training too
Kevster - nice work on the 7b+
Miles - quiet week due to illness - hope this week went better
Thickhead - congrats!
Sankey - steady week
andy - sounds like a good week
Charlie_Zero - overworked and ill - not a good combo. Hope things have gone better this week
TonyB - I hate downclimbing on lapping stuff - my old 50m lead rope needs the end chopping anyway so I'm thinking I might go for it and trim down to 30m or so and do the stuff catt was suggesting last week (or the one before) to avoid it.
Daniel Heath - you've got to be in the game to stand a chance of winning it, I reckon - sometimes you get beaten, but there's no way you win without trying
Nexonen - variety is the spice of life and all that
Jeriqo - did you get more miles in this week?
Steve John B - building up slow is good - the spate of finger and elbow tweaks that come around Sept each year is sure proof of that!
richardh - hope you've found a design that works for you - having it there is good for the extra sessions snatched betwen other stuff. Fortunately I have a tolerant climbing partner so mine lives in the living room by the TV
Stone Donkey - bad luck on the wall session. Keep plugging away at it - endurance training is good
JimmyKay - crushing in Chorro. You don't need luck
seankenny - good effort on the 6c
Mark Torrance - steady if slow week
biscuit - I find if I've been off it for a while the power for throwing at things is one of the fastest to go. I'm sure it will be back soon, now you've started focus on the harder boulders again. Interested to see your comments about 16 week P-E periods, which is a really new one for me, most places tend to say that you shouldn't do p-e for too long because continually flooding your muscles with lactic isn't that good for them. Learn something new every day.....
agibb - its not something I follow religiously, but from what others have said, longer periods seem better. I tend to only really think about it in reference to trips, and only in reference to my indoor training choices, in that I usually am fairly bouldering-focused and only switch to p-e a few weeks before a trip.This year has been a bit different in that I've been doing more roped work over the winter than previously, so it will be interesting to see how keeping that background volume stuff ramping up has helped
Eagle River - hope finger is on the mend
chris05 - reckon that 7A should be a sure thing next time, from the sounds of it
plexiglass_nick - as others have said, I wouldn't get worked up over a poor endurance session on your fourth day on
jkarran - happy birthday for this week....
catt - any more luck with weekend rock? Sounds like the training is going pretty well
viking - bad luck on the weekend
petestack - well done for keeping going in what sounds like pretty rough weather
Steve Perry (Pezz) - good work on the lead session, great to see that confidence
leon - hard luck. Hope it gets better soon
Liam M - good week
andy farnell - good you are seeing improvement on that Sunday session
fimm - its always nice when you perform better than those who traditionally used to be better than you
Curious Yellow - sounds like a decent week
Murd - at least also you'll be busy on the road during a time that isn't the summer, so you get the chance to get out more in the better weather
jamesgreenfield - overworked
IainRUK - bad luck on the break, but at least it doesn't affect your main training stuff
Eric the Red - good week
Goonie - glad the new training plan is working out. I had a look a while back and couldn't track down an easy "whats it all about" sort of thing - do you know of one? I found some stuff about the idea of fitness and fatigue, but you seem to have a lot more detailed plans than that - is that your own work, or did you get that by digging deeper than I did? I suspect I just gave up too soon....
New posters/returnees - 5
Niels - welcome. V8 flash is good stuff
Karl Wooffindin - welcome back...!
ayuplass - enjoy Scotland
Shauna - of course - welcome. Looking at your goals, I've always found it takes more than 1 fall per week to keep the head in condition
The New NickB - welcome back
In reply to AJM:
<STG> - pre Chateauvert
Get a roped session and a bouldering session in per week, plus beastmaker and hopefully outdoor at weekends
Laps on 4x 6b+ with the only rest being lowering and retying <ticked>
6c+ redpoint on the pocket route at the Warehouse <ticked>
New Goal - aim for 6c+ then 3x6b+ <currently at 6c+ then 2.5x 6b+> and then 2x6c+ 2x6b+
New Goal - 7a+ r/p indoors before the clocks go back and I can abandon indoors for the outside
3 7s or some good onsights during Chateauvert
<MTG> - before Easter
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: TCA. Fairly poor session - warmed up badly, ended up with very sore forearms. Had a go on a few stamina circuits and a bunch of problems, but not a lot to report. Generally a bit de-psyched by it - no new boulder circuit at the right difficulty level, and it feels like a bit of a waste to go all the way down there for the 30-50 move traverses.
T: Nowt much. Did a dumbell complex thing and some stretching and pressups - elbows feeling a bit sore from Monday. Bit of a wakeup call.
W: Nowt. Are the dumbell complexes meant to make your lower back ache, or am I just doing them wrong?
T: Warehouse. Did some pumpy stuff (probably intense AeroCap sort of range) on the boulder wall to warm up - shaking out in strenuous positions, climbing whilst pumped and stuff.
Dogged up the 7a+, then had a redpoint go, got right up to the crux but didn't have the oomph for it - bit of a hard move off an tiny undercut at mid-chest sort of level, very Cheddar-esque.
Then tried to do the 6c+ into some 6b+ laps. Messed the 6c+ up bigtime, clipped in all the wrong places, forgot the sequences and all that. Soldiered on and ended up taking a big whipper high up failing on a move level with the unclipped bolt. Ashamed to say I had a little strop at my own incompetence :s.
Got back on it at the end and managed 6c+ into 2.5 goes on the 6b+ which is good. Very up and down session.
F: Rest
S: Cheddar. Spent the morning dogging moves on Everyday Live of Ordinary People, a 7c on the Remnant. Useful benchmark for the end of year goal of 7c. The crux is supposedly low down, although we both failed high up on a puzzling section. Some holds have come off, so I think I just need to wait until the local beta-machine has gone back on it and worked out either a new sequence or a new grade . Still, on the low crux I managed to link the hard moves from the bottom into being set up for the first of the two hardest moves, then do both the hardest moves separately (a big throw for a shitty little crimp, and then an off-balance pop into a 2-finger pocket), then go from the end of that to a shitty poor shakeout. So not anywhere close to a redpoint, but on the other hand I'm pleased I could do the moves low down - will have to see what happens with the upper crux, get someone to show me how its done over the summer maybe.
Then in the afternoon I went over the road to Freaky Wall. Dogged up Speedfreak to remind myself of the moves, then nailed it next go. First 7a+ of the year in the bag. Good to get it after the failure at New Year due to illness.
S: Probably a restful day - maybe a few stretches and some antagonists, but nothing more than that - feeling a bit battered from quite an intense Saturday.
The other big news this week was the crumbling of my Verdon plans with a couple of crucial dropouts. I don't really know whats going on with it now, may not happen, looking like a more conventional single pitch sport trip might work better for the group we seem to have left. Gutting in one way, but on the other hand a good single pitch sport trip might help set me up better for the 7c goal for the year since I'll be able to push it harder when its not on committing multipitch stuff.....
A week of ups and downs, but ended on an up so I'm feeling pretty positive right now. Found one of my regular partners has decided to devote himself to 7c this year too, which will hopefully make it a lot easier to achieve logistically.
Andy
<STG> - pre Chateauvert
<MTG> - before Easter
- 10 routes at E2/7a or above <Completed 1/10: 1x7a+ r/p>
- Include at least 2 routes from local hitlist of harder routes <ticked 1 - Speedfreak>
- Focus on onsight days on pumpy trad and onsight/fast redpoint days on sport, try to build up volume
- Intervals on 6c+/7a indoors
- V5 indoors, V4 outdoors
- Bike odometer to 1500km - currently at 361
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: TCA. Fairly poor session - warmed up badly, ended up with very sore forearms. Had a go on a few stamina circuits and a bunch of problems, but not a lot to report. Generally a bit de-psyched by it - no new boulder circuit at the right difficulty level, and it feels like a bit of a waste to go all the way down there for the 30-50 move traverses.
T: Nowt much. Did a dumbell complex thing and some stretching and pressups - elbows feeling a bit sore from Monday. Bit of a wakeup call.
W: Nowt. Are the dumbell complexes meant to make your lower back ache, or am I just doing them wrong?
T: Warehouse. Did some pumpy stuff (probably intense AeroCap sort of range) on the boulder wall to warm up - shaking out in strenuous positions, climbing whilst pumped and stuff.
Dogged up the 7a+, then had a redpoint go, got right up to the crux but didn't have the oomph for it - bit of a hard move off an tiny undercut at mid-chest sort of level, very Cheddar-esque.
Then tried to do the 6c+ into some 6b+ laps. Messed the 6c+ up bigtime, clipped in all the wrong places, forgot the sequences and all that. Soldiered on and ended up taking a big whipper high up failing on a move level with the unclipped bolt. Ashamed to say I had a little strop at my own incompetence :s.
Got back on it at the end and managed 6c+ into 2.5 goes on the 6b+ which is good. Very up and down session.
F: Rest
S: Cheddar. Spent the morning dogging moves on Everyday Live of Ordinary People, a 7c on the Remnant. Useful benchmark for the end of year goal of 7c. The crux is supposedly low down, although we both failed high up on a puzzling section. Some holds have come off, so I think I just need to wait until the local beta-machine has gone back on it and worked out either a new sequence or a new grade . Still, on the low crux I managed to link the hard moves from the bottom into being set up for the first of the two hardest moves, then do both the hardest moves separately (a big throw for a shitty little crimp, and then an off-balance pop into a 2-finger pocket), then go from the end of that to a shitty poor shakeout. So not anywhere close to a redpoint, but on the other hand I'm pleased I could do the moves low down - will have to see what happens with the upper crux, get someone to show me how its done over the summer maybe.
Then in the afternoon I went over the road to Freaky Wall. Dogged up Speedfreak to remind myself of the moves, then nailed it next go. First 7a+ of the year in the bag. Good to get it after the failure at New Year due to illness.
S: Probably a restful day - maybe a few stretches and some antagonists, but nothing more than that - feeling a bit battered from quite an intense Saturday.
The other big news this week was the crumbling of my Verdon plans with a couple of crucial dropouts. I don't really know whats going on with it now, may not happen, looking like a more conventional single pitch sport trip might work better for the group we seem to have left. Gutting in one way, but on the other hand a good single pitch sport trip might help set me up better for the 7c goal for the year since I'll be able to push it harder when its not on committing multipitch stuff.....
A week of ups and downs, but ended on an up so I'm feeling pretty positive right now. Found one of my regular partners has decided to devote himself to 7c this year too, which will hopefully make it a lot easier to achieve logistically.
Andy
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM
good wk for me..managed to get outdoors again
tues: curbar bouldering, 10 problems done inc my first 6a british
sat: V. wet roaches, 6 problems...flashed V3 6a
wont be able to get outdoors till next wknd now...back to indoor training
STG: 6a in Font.
MTG: solid HVS trad, 6a sport, 6a bouldering
LTG: solid E1 trad and 6b sport, 6b bouldering.
Cheers AJM
good wk for me..managed to get outdoors again
tues: curbar bouldering, 10 problems done inc my first 6a british
sat: V. wet roaches, 6 problems...flashed V3 6a
wont be able to get outdoors till next wknd now...back to indoor training
STG: 6a in Font.
MTG: solid HVS trad, 6a sport, 6a bouldering
LTG: solid E1 trad and 6b sport, 6b bouldering.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, Andy. Just a quick post this afternoon (so no real 'analysis'), but good to hit a 50-mile running week before heading off to Glenmore Lodge...
M: Rest
T: Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
W: Primary School XC training + Camas na h-Eirghe (steady out, fartlek back), 12.1 miles/? ft
T: Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft (towards tempo)
F: Tigh-na-sleubhaich, 7.9 miles/1,500 ft
S: Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft (snow on top)
S: Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - well done for keeping going in what sounds like pretty rough weather
Thanks, Andy. Just a quick post this afternoon (so no real 'analysis'), but good to hit a 50-mile running week before heading off to Glenmore Lodge...
M: Rest
T: Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
W: Primary School XC training + Camas na h-Eirghe (steady out, fartlek back), 12.1 miles/? ft
T: Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft (towards tempo)
F: Tigh-na-sleubhaich, 7.9 miles/1,500 ft
S: Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft (snow on top)
S: Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
Great news on the 7a+. Well deserved. Really jealous, everything up here is dripping.
The 16 week PE thing may be in fit club somewhere about 5 or 6 mths ago. Tom Randall said it to me when i mentioned i was entering a PE phase 8 weeks prior to a trip. That's as much as i know really. I reckon you would notice a tail off in your performance of lactate was a real issue and so you could take a break.
Anyway onto this weeks activities:
M - Core 200, 100 press ups
T – Boulder @ cockermouth
W – Dumbell complexes, core 250
T – Board session
F - Rest
S – Fingerboard repeaters
S – Core 250, lock offs, dumbell complexes
I was worried last week that I had become really weak but I think it was more of a transition problem. Went back on the bendcrete for the first time for a couple of months and I had a good session, fingers crossed. Board session was fine too. I think a big problem was my timing and mental ability to just pull really hard. Seems to be coming back together now. Concentrating on building my feet up to make big hard moves and deadpointing.
Fingerboard was better than last weeks so progress is being made.
Missing out on climbing this week due to wife being away :0(
Starting to bring other stuff in now. Hip seems to be a lot better now so core is do-able. Dumbell complexes ( Bolton complex ) are good and have highlighted shoulder stiffness as an issue. Started lock off training on the bar. 2 arms this week and next 2 weeks then onto 1 arm.
Next week
2x board sessions – big moves, high feet, deadpointing
1x Routes – 4x4's on auto belay. RP 7a on Kendal big wall
3x core 250
2x lock off training (2 arm )
1x Fingerboard ( repeaters )
Cheers Andy.
Great news on the 7a+. Well deserved. Really jealous, everything up here is dripping.
The 16 week PE thing may be in fit club somewhere about 5 or 6 mths ago. Tom Randall said it to me when i mentioned i was entering a PE phase 8 weeks prior to a trip. That's as much as i know really. I reckon you would notice a tail off in your performance of lactate was a real issue and so you could take a break.
Anyway onto this weeks activities:
M - Core 200, 100 press ups
T – Boulder @ cockermouth
W – Dumbell complexes, core 250
T – Board session
F - Rest
S – Fingerboard repeaters
S – Core 250, lock offs, dumbell complexes
I was worried last week that I had become really weak but I think it was more of a transition problem. Went back on the bendcrete for the first time for a couple of months and I had a good session, fingers crossed. Board session was fine too. I think a big problem was my timing and mental ability to just pull really hard. Seems to be coming back together now. Concentrating on building my feet up to make big hard moves and deadpointing.
Fingerboard was better than last weeks so progress is being made.
Missing out on climbing this week due to wife being away :0(
Starting to bring other stuff in now. Hip seems to be a lot better now so core is do-able. Dumbell complexes ( Bolton complex ) are good and have highlighted shoulder stiffness as an issue. Started lock off training on the bar. 2 arms this week and next 2 weeks then onto 1 arm.
Next week
2x board sessions – big moves, high feet, deadpointing
1x Routes – 4x4's on auto belay. RP 7a on Kendal big wall
3x core 250
2x lock off training (2 arm )
1x Fingerboard ( repeaters )
A million thankyous! (My second fitclub entry in two days, whoops!)
Had another really good week. Body feeling very tired and TRIMP says I should be on my knees. Will take it steady next week I think.
Goal for last week
30 mile week, half marathon+ long run preferably off road, one speed session and some cross training. 4 sessions.
Status: Achieved in all respects. Excellent!
33 miles in total, 13.5 miles long run, spin session and a 10k in 42:30 so that's one of my monthly goals too. 5 sessions.
M: rest
T: spin - 45 mins, hard. 1.25 mile run there and 2.5 mile run home
W: Tempo run - 10km, 42:30
T: Easy run - 4 miles
F: rest
S: Orienteering 14th/77 4.4 miles plus 0.75 miles warm up and down.
S: 13.5 mile run, easy pace cross country
Goals for next week
Going to Brecon for the weekend so the long run might suffer. Aiming for 20+ miles, 4 sessions and some cross training.
Goal for end of February
100 + miles in February. 10k in sub 43 mins (done). Have a full race plan for the year
Three month goal, end April
25miles + at the weekends and at least 3 40+ mile weeks. Sub 41 min 10k. Finished two long races at least half marathon.
Six month goal, end july
At least one 40 mile weekend and 2-3 50+ mile weeks. Sub 40 min 10k. Finish two more races including at least marathon
12 month goal, 2011
Run ultra, sub 3:10 marathon, at least one really long distance challenge.
Had another really good week. Body feeling very tired and TRIMP says I should be on my knees. Will take it steady next week I think.
Goal for last week
30 mile week, half marathon+ long run preferably off road, one speed session and some cross training. 4 sessions.
Status: Achieved in all respects. Excellent!
33 miles in total, 13.5 miles long run, spin session and a 10k in 42:30 so that's one of my monthly goals too. 5 sessions.
M: rest
T: spin - 45 mins, hard. 1.25 mile run there and 2.5 mile run home
W: Tempo run - 10km, 42:30
T: Easy run - 4 miles
F: rest
S: Orienteering 14th/77 4.4 miles plus 0.75 miles warm up and down.
S: 13.5 mile run, easy pace cross country
Goals for next week
Going to Brecon for the weekend so the long run might suffer. Aiming for 20+ miles, 4 sessions and some cross training.
Goal for end of February
100 + miles in February. 10k in sub 43 mins (done). Have a full race plan for the year
Three month goal, end April
25miles + at the weekends and at least 3 40+ mile weeks. Sub 41 min 10k. Finished two long races at least half marathon.
Six month goal, end july
At least one 40 mile weekend and 2-3 50+ mile weeks. Sub 40 min 10k. Finish two more races including at least marathon
12 month goal, 2011
Run ultra, sub 3:10 marathon, at least one really long distance challenge.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks!
Enjoyed a week of paternity leave at home with the new family. Unfortunately back to work tomorrow and I fear a drop in mileage, but we'll see...
M: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 75mins.
T: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 76mins.
W: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 75mins.
T: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 72mins.
F: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 73mins.
S: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 76mins.
S: 10k race Great Orme (hilly) 37m39s 9th/~650. 4.5mile gentle trail run after.
Thanks!
Enjoyed a week of paternity leave at home with the new family. Unfortunately back to work tomorrow and I fear a drop in mileage, but we'll see...
M: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 75mins.
T: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 76mins.
W: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 75mins.
T: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 72mins.
F: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 73mins.
S: 9mile trail/fell run 500m ascent Sychnant Pass. 76mins.
S: 10k race Great Orme (hilly) 37m39s 9th/~650. 4.5mile gentle trail run after.
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit.
If it makes you feel any better, there was seepage on some of the other routes, and its pissed it down from first thing this morning until now, with no sign of stopping yet.
Hoping I might be able to get another decent day like that in before Chateauvert, be good to progress further on the 10-by-Easter goal before then. Mind you, I'm thinking that maybe, especially if Verdon does fall through, I should re-write some of those goals. I'm leaning maybe towards a pyramid structure - I'd been planning a sort of consolidation phase into the spring with then grade pushing early sumer, which kind of defines a pyramid anyway.
Nick pointed out to me that I've accidentally managed to get a half decent 7b+ pyramid on the go (now at 6x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b) so finishing that (2x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b, 1x7b+) might make a sensible next step. Who knows - I need to sort trip plans out really since if its a more "general" sport trip I'll probably make my training a bit less onsight-focused than my Verdon training plan, keep it a bit more all-rounded to allow for decent redpoints both on and after the trip.
Reckon you're probably right on the lactate front.
Cheers biscuit.
If it makes you feel any better, there was seepage on some of the other routes, and its pissed it down from first thing this morning until now, with no sign of stopping yet.
Hoping I might be able to get another decent day like that in before Chateauvert, be good to progress further on the 10-by-Easter goal before then. Mind you, I'm thinking that maybe, especially if Verdon does fall through, I should re-write some of those goals. I'm leaning maybe towards a pyramid structure - I'd been planning a sort of consolidation phase into the spring with then grade pushing early sumer, which kind of defines a pyramid anyway.
Nick pointed out to me that I've accidentally managed to get a half decent 7b+ pyramid on the go (now at 6x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b) so finishing that (2x7a, 2x7a+, 1x7b, 1x7b+) might make a sensible next step. Who knows - I need to sort trip plans out really since if its a more "general" sport trip I'll probably make my training a bit less onsight-focused than my Verdon training plan, keep it a bit more all-rounded to allow for decent redpoints both on and after the trip.
Reckon you're probably right on the lactate front.
In reply to AJM:
yea feel better now thanks
STG (end of march):
Amtrax - el chorro
RP 6b+ - el chorro
onsight a HVS and maybe a E1
MTG end of june:
RP 6c?
Onsight E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
2 climbing sessions min - tick 3 indoor sessions
Lose some weight currently 12st 12lb - I didn't weigh myself so not sure think I stayed the same
1 proper core session min - hopefully hsve one later
M: Hudds Wall 3 hours bouldering cirucits, problems. routes worked
T: Football Training - 1hour
W: Hudds wall 2hours 30mins worked routes and boulderingt circuits
T: rest
F: football 5 aside from work 1 hour
S: rest
S: Rock over 3hours different circuits mainly grey some blue tried a couple of reds and white. Did traverses to work stamina
This weeks goals:
Amtrak
rp 6b/+
Off to chorro on wednesday can not wait!!
> grubes - not so well. Hope you've recovered...
yea feel better now thanks
STG (end of march):
Amtrax - el chorro
RP 6b+ - el chorro
onsight a HVS and maybe a E1
MTG end of june:
RP 6c?
Onsight E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
2 climbing sessions min - tick 3 indoor sessions
Lose some weight currently 12st 12lb - I didn't weigh myself so not sure think I stayed the same
1 proper core session min - hopefully hsve one later
M: Hudds Wall 3 hours bouldering cirucits, problems. routes worked
T: Football Training - 1hour
W: Hudds wall 2hours 30mins worked routes and boulderingt circuits
T: rest
F: football 5 aside from work 1 hour
S: rest
S: Rock over 3hours different circuits mainly grey some blue tried a couple of reds and white. Did traverses to work stamina
This weeks goals:
Amtrak
rp 6b/+
Off to chorro on wednesday can not wait!!
In reply to AJM:
Mon - Fri - nowt/ getting stuff sorted for trip
Sat - soloed Cinderella on Creag Meagaidh. Fitness seems OK but should have done more calf raises, felt like they were on fire!
Sun - poor weather so we cycled around rothiemurchus for a couple of hours. Great fun despite the rain and mud
Mon - Fri - nowt/ getting stuff sorted for trip
Sat - soloed Cinderella on Creag Meagaidh. Fitness seems OK but should have done more calf raises, felt like they were on fire!
Sun - poor weather so we cycled around rothiemurchus for a couple of hours. Great fun despite the rain and mud
In reply to AJM:
Business travel - all planes & hotel rooms & no training whatsoever this week. Some repeaters tonight to partly compensate
Business travel - all planes & hotel rooms & no training whatsoever this week. Some repeaters tonight to partly compensate
In reply to AJM:
M-Tried bouldering. Felt ill and progressibely worse. Sacked it off.
T-Rest
W-Bouldering Nottingham
T-Close Press ups 51/2min PBest
F-Bouldering Competition Nottingham
S-Some press ups before bed. In hindsight this was not productive.
S-Really good lead session at Derby. Got to last move on a 7a+ but took several attempts to do the crux.
Thanks AJM
M-Tried bouldering. Felt ill and progressibely worse. Sacked it off.
T-Rest
W-Bouldering Nottingham
T-Close Press ups 51/2min PBest
F-Bouldering Competition Nottingham
S-Some press ups before bed. In hindsight this was not productive.
S-Really good lead session at Derby. Got to last move on a 7a+ but took several attempts to do the crux.
Thanks AJM
In reply to AJM:
Thanks and yes!
Wed: Wall - routes and good stamina session.
Thurs: Wall - easy routes (active recovery!)
Sat: Wall - bouldering
Sun: Routes - climbed a couple of decent routes half a grade better than my usual!
Looks as if the regular bouldering and stamina sessions since the New Year are beginning to pay-off. I've noticed that I can now carry on where I would have had to stop for a rest on the rope previously.
Plan: more of the same!
Tues - moderate routes followed by stamina laps on easier routes
Thurs - bouldering session
Sun - routes at my onsight grade or slightly above.
> overworked and ill - not a good combo. Hope things have gone better this week
Thanks and yes!
Wed: Wall - routes and good stamina session.
Thurs: Wall - easy routes (active recovery!)
Sat: Wall - bouldering
Sun: Routes - climbed a couple of decent routes half a grade better than my usual!
Looks as if the regular bouldering and stamina sessions since the New Year are beginning to pay-off. I've noticed that I can now carry on where I would have had to stop for a rest on the rope previously.
Plan: more of the same!
Tues - moderate routes followed by stamina laps on easier routes
Thurs - bouldering session
Sun - routes at my onsight grade or slightly above.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. I feel for you about the Verdon trip. But who knows, it could be a blessing in disguise as the single pitch sport trip might be the perfect time for a 7c. My Frankenjura holiday plans are also looking a bit shaky.
Monday - Repeaters. Went well at first but stopped early as I got an odd pain in my neck! Very strange but all OK now.
Wednesday - Bouldering at Pasila. Worked on some sloper problems and then climbed a really fingery problem. I'm feeling fairly strong on small crimpy holds at the moment (too early for the repeaters to be working though).
Thursday - Yoga. I hadn't been for about 6 months but felt really good after this session. I definitely feel it was a mistake to drop this.
Friday - Great session. Good for the ego as I flashed a couple of routes my friends were working on. I came very close to climbing a Font7 route, I just can't get the first move (it starts from a horrible bunched up undercling by your chin). Following from the PE conversation a week before last, I decided to include some 4x4 into my training. Tried one with four ungraded problems (I really hate this new lack of grading or this really vague grading of Font 6 - end of rant). Tried with 2.5 mins rest. The first two reps went quite well, but on the third and fourth I think I fell off 3 out of the 4 problems.
Sunday - Bouldering session. Feel strong on crimpers but poor on big lock offs and slopers. Tried the 4x4 but increased the rest to 4 mins and managed 7 reps (I'm sure this says something about my fitness but I'm not sure what: unable to recover quickly?)
Goals for next week
This should be an easy week as I've been bouldering hard recently and want some recovery time.
1x Roped session (I say this every week and mostly just end up bouldering)
1x Boulder session (climb undercut Font7 route: try 4x4 with 3.15 mins rest)
1x Yoga
Press ups on everyday with no climbing.
Thanks Andy. I feel for you about the Verdon trip. But who knows, it could be a blessing in disguise as the single pitch sport trip might be the perfect time for a 7c. My Frankenjura holiday plans are also looking a bit shaky.
Monday - Repeaters. Went well at first but stopped early as I got an odd pain in my neck! Very strange but all OK now.
Wednesday - Bouldering at Pasila. Worked on some sloper problems and then climbed a really fingery problem. I'm feeling fairly strong on small crimpy holds at the moment (too early for the repeaters to be working though).
Thursday - Yoga. I hadn't been for about 6 months but felt really good after this session. I definitely feel it was a mistake to drop this.
Friday - Great session. Good for the ego as I flashed a couple of routes my friends were working on. I came very close to climbing a Font7 route, I just can't get the first move (it starts from a horrible bunched up undercling by your chin). Following from the PE conversation a week before last, I decided to include some 4x4 into my training. Tried one with four ungraded problems (I really hate this new lack of grading or this really vague grading of Font 6 - end of rant). Tried with 2.5 mins rest. The first two reps went quite well, but on the third and fourth I think I fell off 3 out of the 4 problems.
Sunday - Bouldering session. Feel strong on crimpers but poor on big lock offs and slopers. Tried the 4x4 but increased the rest to 4 mins and managed 7 reps (I'm sure this says something about my fitness but I'm not sure what: unable to recover quickly?)
Goals for next week
This should be an easy week as I've been bouldering hard recently and want some recovery time.
1x Roped session (I say this every week and mostly just end up bouldering)
1x Boulder session (climb undercut Font7 route: try 4x4 with 3.15 mins rest)
1x Yoga
Press ups on everyday with no climbing.
In reply to AJM: Yea slowly getting less ill
Monday: Some fairly chilled leading. Flashed a 6b+ and tried a 6c but got a bit confused near the crux so missed the onsight.
Tues/Wed: Got iller, loads of sneezing etc, was pretty messy
Thursday: Feeling better, friend convinced me to try a 7c, I managed all the moves and think with a bit of work it could go*. Retried the 6c and cleaned it. *bit injured atm so probably won't trying it soon but I'll come back to that
Friday: Pretty crap session actually, both me and my partner were climbing pretty badly so we called it quits early.
Saturday: Late night on friday so had a rest day
Sunday: Wanted to do something but not push myself so just had an easy toproping session with a friend. Spent most of the time teaching her to lead which was pretty rewarding and meant I got to doss about belaying so everyone was a winner :P
I've noticed a bit of an issue with my forearms recently (brought on by my week of hard bouldering I think), they seem to ache a bit on the opposite side to my palm about half way between my elbow and wrist and kinda give a sharp pain sometimes when pulling hard to go from a crimp to another hold. Not entirely sure what the best solution is gonna be but I plan to investigate the merits of eccentric reverse curls and do a bit of research. Considering taking time out of hard climbing and spend a week or two ARCing (need to get fit for the long spanish routes I'll be facing in 5 weeks time anyway) and seeing if I can get it to fix. As I'm writing this I'm also wondering if climbing openhanded might work so will possibly give that a go.
Monday: Some fairly chilled leading. Flashed a 6b+ and tried a 6c but got a bit confused near the crux so missed the onsight.
Tues/Wed: Got iller, loads of sneezing etc, was pretty messy
Thursday: Feeling better, friend convinced me to try a 7c, I managed all the moves and think with a bit of work it could go*. Retried the 6c and cleaned it. *bit injured atm so probably won't trying it soon but I'll come back to that
Friday: Pretty crap session actually, both me and my partner were climbing pretty badly so we called it quits early.
Saturday: Late night on friday so had a rest day
Sunday: Wanted to do something but not push myself so just had an easy toproping session with a friend. Spent most of the time teaching her to lead which was pretty rewarding and meant I got to doss about belaying so everyone was a winner :P
I've noticed a bit of an issue with my forearms recently (brought on by my week of hard bouldering I think), they seem to ache a bit on the opposite side to my palm about half way between my elbow and wrist and kinda give a sharp pain sometimes when pulling hard to go from a crimp to another hold. Not entirely sure what the best solution is gonna be but I plan to investigate the merits of eccentric reverse curls and do a bit of research. Considering taking time out of hard climbing and spend a week or two ARCing (need to get fit for the long spanish routes I'll be facing in 5 weeks time anyway) and seeing if I can get it to fix. As I'm writing this I'm also wondering if climbing openhanded might work so will possibly give that a go.
In reply to AJM and Biscuit:
Just happened to have a browse of what you guys are up to at the moment and saw a question about P/E cycles! What Biscuit is probably referring to is Anaerobic Capacity training, which takes around 22wks to come to peak (think of this as being long boulders, 10-14 moves long at almost max intensity).
The normal P/E which most people think of e.g. redpointing/onsighting/power endurance circuits on a board is best worked for around 8 weeks for peak. I'd normally adise working 3 weeks on, 1 week rest on this type of training as when done 2 or 3 times per week it's pretty flipping intense, so you'll want a week off after 3! Btw the week off isn't 100% off from all climbing - just from P/E.
Anyway, hope that helps. Hope you're both doing well and working towards you goals and enjoying the hard slog in the indoors walls!
Tom
Just happened to have a browse of what you guys are up to at the moment and saw a question about P/E cycles! What Biscuit is probably referring to is Anaerobic Capacity training, which takes around 22wks to come to peak (think of this as being long boulders, 10-14 moves long at almost max intensity).
The normal P/E which most people think of e.g. redpointing/onsighting/power endurance circuits on a board is best worked for around 8 weeks for peak. I'd normally adise working 3 weeks on, 1 week rest on this type of training as when done 2 or 3 times per week it's pretty flipping intense, so you'll want a week off after 3! Btw the week off isn't 100% off from all climbing - just from P/E.
Anyway, hope that helps. Hope you're both doing well and working towards you goals and enjoying the hard slog in the indoors walls!
Tom
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
Cheers Tom. Doing well, slowly plugging away at goals. Hope things are good with you too.
Cheers Tom. Doing well, slowly plugging away at goals. Hope things are good with you too.
In reply to AJM:
Running 6 miles is fine now, so am on track to increase mileage towards 1/2 marathon distance (should be easier to get miles in with lighter evenings ahead)
Climbing: need a particular aim or trip to focus on, maintaining a general level of fitness though. As my main ambitions are routes, need to keep some stamina on the go each week even when I don't get on a rope, seem to move backward on indoor routes without at least a weekly session, despite bouldering.
M:
T: Ran 4.5 miles
W:
T: Climbing Works
F:
S: Ran 6.4 miles
S: Leeds Wall (routes + short session on circuits)
STG: Regular Wall sessions + Inrease length of runs
MTG: Enter fell race / 10 k + do some winter climbing
LTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + would like a PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Running 6 miles is fine now, so am on track to increase mileage towards 1/2 marathon distance (should be easier to get miles in with lighter evenings ahead)
Climbing: need a particular aim or trip to focus on, maintaining a general level of fitness though. As my main ambitions are routes, need to keep some stamina on the go each week even when I don't get on a rope, seem to move backward on indoor routes without at least a weekly session, despite bouldering.
M:
T: Ran 4.5 miles
W:
T: Climbing Works
F:
S: Ran 6.4 miles
S: Leeds Wall (routes + short session on circuits)
STG: Regular Wall sessions + Inrease length of runs
MTG: Enter fell race / 10 k + do some winter climbing
LTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + would like a PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Cheers, bit better this week so steadyily progressing
Mon - 6 miles on the road
Tue - nothing
Wed - 4 mile road run
Thu - nothing
Fri - 10 mile trail run around Llyn Brenig with muttley
Sat - away
Sun - 10 miler around Llyn Crafnant & Geirionydd
Mon - 6 miles on the road
Tue - nothing
Wed - 4 mile road run
Thu - nothing
Fri - 10 mile trail run around Llyn Brenig with muttley
Sat - away
Sun - 10 miler around Llyn Crafnant & Geirionydd
In reply to AJM:
Had a reasonable week, not as good as I wanted to but things got in the way!
M - Nothing because I had driving lesson
T - Swim 50 mins
W - Swim 50 mins
T - Swim 30 mins
F - Nothing
S - Nowt again
S - Swim 50 mins
Hoping to do a bit more this week!
Had a reasonable week, not as good as I wanted to but things got in the way!
M - Nothing because I had driving lesson
T - Swim 50 mins
W - Swim 50 mins
T - Swim 30 mins
F - Nothing
S - Nowt again
S - Swim 50 mins
Hoping to do a bit more this week!
In reply to AJM: thanks AJM.
Another poor week:
Mon - 35 min run
Fri - 35 min run
Other than that, 1 or 2 sets of heel drops per day.
Painful inner shins (MTSS?) during and after Friday's run. Marathon in May is looking less likely with each passing week
Another poor week:
Mon - 35 min run
Fri - 35 min run
Other than that, 1 or 2 sets of heel drops per day.
Painful inner shins (MTSS?) during and after Friday's run. Marathon in May is looking less likely with each passing week
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. I did of course mean LOTS of falling off! I am learning though that it is one thing to be preapred to jump off the top without clipping when leading, and another to be prepared to go for it mid route and fall off in a less controlled fashion. I need to work on the latter a lot more.
M-nowt
T-bouldering, steep as I could find, and ended with some foot on campussing. Felt good, and a bit stronger.
W-nowt again.
Th-Bouldering - steep again. Finding I'm actually stronger than my brain thinks I am. If I do moves with a bit of a french spot first, then I can often do them without the next time. Still long way to go. Felt very tired afterwards
F - knackered. Wine.
S- bouldering at Cratcliffe. Almost routes weather - I can't get that excited about bouldering, but it was fun trying a few things.
Sunday - leading at Foundry. Poor session - tired, lethargic and tweaky elbow. A good reminder to start doing press ups/wrist curls and shoulder stabilising exercises as I've let them slip recently.
All in all - not bad apart from today. Next week: 2 x bouldering sessions on steep stuff again to try to gradually bring the power up, and a routes session at the weekend to maintain the stamina, with some 4 x 4s.
> Shauna - of course - welcome. Looking at your goals, I've always found it takes more than 1 fall per week to keep the head in condition
Thanks AJM. I did of course mean LOTS of falling off! I am learning though that it is one thing to be preapred to jump off the top without clipping when leading, and another to be prepared to go for it mid route and fall off in a less controlled fashion. I need to work on the latter a lot more.
M-nowt
T-bouldering, steep as I could find, and ended with some foot on campussing. Felt good, and a bit stronger.
W-nowt again.
Th-Bouldering - steep again. Finding I'm actually stronger than my brain thinks I am. If I do moves with a bit of a french spot first, then I can often do them without the next time. Still long way to go. Felt very tired afterwards
F - knackered. Wine.
S- bouldering at Cratcliffe. Almost routes weather - I can't get that excited about bouldering, but it was fun trying a few things.
Sunday - leading at Foundry. Poor session - tired, lethargic and tweaky elbow. A good reminder to start doing press ups/wrist curls and shoulder stabilising exercises as I've let them slip recently.
All in all - not bad apart from today. Next week: 2 x bouldering sessions on steep stuff again to try to gradually bring the power up, and a routes session at the weekend to maintain the stamina, with some 4 x 4s.
In reply to AJM:
M: 3.5 mile run road flat
T: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
W: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
T:
F: 8.7 mile run road, undulating, pace
S: 8,6,4,2,2,8 min intervals flat road in < 6:50 m/m with 4 miles wupdown
S: 3.3 mile run road very slow with talkative child
Fall back week before increasing long run again next week. Friday was intended to be a bit faster than marathon pace, and felt a lot faster, but turned out not to be, which was worrying. It was quite hilly though. Saturday with club was blast, though. It seems a bit wrong to enjoy intervals so much, but I was buzzing for the rest of the day.
M: 3.5 mile run road flat
T: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
W: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
T:
F: 8.7 mile run road, undulating, pace
S: 8,6,4,2,2,8 min intervals flat road in < 6:50 m/m with 4 miles wupdown
S: 3.3 mile run road very slow with talkative child
Fall back week before increasing long run again next week. Friday was intended to be a bit faster than marathon pace, and felt a lot faster, but turned out not to be, which was worrying. It was quite hilly though. Saturday with club was blast, though. It seems a bit wrong to enjoy intervals so much, but I was buzzing for the rest of the day.
In reply to SV:
I hoped that was what you meant
FWIW, I agree entirely about your thoughts on falling vs controlled jumping. The latter is a good first step but the former is the key - I'm not so bad but often still need a second or so to just remind myself itll be fine (quick look down at bolt and back up again) which is still energy sapped. And that's indoors, outdoors I'm nowhere near as good.....
I hoped that was what you meant
FWIW, I agree entirely about your thoughts on falling vs controlled jumping. The latter is a good first step but the former is the key - I'm not so bad but often still need a second or so to just remind myself itll be fine (quick look down at bolt and back up again) which is still energy sapped. And that's indoors, outdoors I'm nowhere near as good.....
In reply to AJM:
m: 6.5 mile trail run montgenevre ski runs
t: am: 3 mile trail run, lunch: 5 mile trail run
w: lunch: 7.5 mile road run. pm: fell run, 6 miles, 500m ascent, Foel Goch
t: 8 mile 600m ascent fell run, Drum.
f: run to track and 3 x 1 mile reps, 5.5 total.
s: am: 3.5 mile trail run Cardrona Forest, 100m ascent. pm. 16.7 mile road run.
s: 7 mile trail run Cardrona Forest. 300m ascent.
Running awkward with cast, yesterdays 16.5 miler was quite sore really.
m: 6.5 mile trail run montgenevre ski runs
t: am: 3 mile trail run, lunch: 5 mile trail run
w: lunch: 7.5 mile road run. pm: fell run, 6 miles, 500m ascent, Foel Goch
t: 8 mile 600m ascent fell run, Drum.
f: run to track and 3 x 1 mile reps, 5.5 total.
s: am: 3.5 mile trail run Cardrona Forest, 100m ascent. pm. 16.7 mile road run.
s: 7 mile trail run Cardrona Forest. 300m ascent.
Running awkward with cast, yesterdays 16.5 miler was quite sore really.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, working a route with missing holds. Might work out well or might not, at least the grade thing isn't a mental issue on it! Good luck.
Saturday, the crag was at full capacity, with all lines 7a and above being used in one way or another, except one of the 8's. Middle of feb and some of the lads there had their tops off. It was warm!!!! Just a warning, Brean = busy. I'll be there next weekend too.
Monday:
Tuesday: Indoors - trying to fall more
Weds
Thurs: Indoors, routes and bouldering.
Fri: Setting, which is strangly physical
Sat: Outdoors - Fantasicly beautiful day. Clean lead 7a as 2nd route warm up, worked 7b+ fresh arms will see that one in the bag, maybe next weekend.
Sunday: MK bouldering - not firing on all cylinders, tried to stick to butch climbs to help the arms.
Thanks, kev
Thanks Andy, working a route with missing holds. Might work out well or might not, at least the grade thing isn't a mental issue on it! Good luck.
Saturday, the crag was at full capacity, with all lines 7a and above being used in one way or another, except one of the 8's. Middle of feb and some of the lads there had their tops off. It was warm!!!! Just a warning, Brean = busy. I'll be there next weekend too.
Monday:
Tuesday: Indoors - trying to fall more
Weds
Thurs: Indoors, routes and bouldering.
Fri: Setting, which is strangly physical
Sat: Outdoors - Fantasicly beautiful day. Clean lead 7a as 2nd route warm up, worked 7b+ fresh arms will see that one in the bag, maybe next weekend.
Sunday: MK bouldering - not firing on all cylinders, tried to stick to butch climbs to help the arms.
Thanks, kev
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Mr AJM.
M: Knackered after weekend away.
T: Nowt.
W: Wall session, 5, 5, 6a+, 6b, onsighted a 6c, then did all the moves on a 7a straight off, but with three rests.
T: Nowt
F: Bouldering at the wall, flashed a V3.
S: Helping out partner with her business, clubbing in the evening.
S: Post-clubbing recovery.
A pretty good week. Happy to get a second 6c three days after doing so on the weekend, and pleased to be able to do all the moves on a 7a. A bit more stamina and that will go easily. No training on the weekend, but went out clubbing for the first time in ages which was great.
I seem to have developed a strangely sore shoulder. Doing plenty of stretching to sort it out.
Cheers Mr AJM.
M: Knackered after weekend away.
T: Nowt.
W: Wall session, 5, 5, 6a+, 6b, onsighted a 6c, then did all the moves on a 7a straight off, but with three rests.
T: Nowt
F: Bouldering at the wall, flashed a V3.
S: Helping out partner with her business, clubbing in the evening.
S: Post-clubbing recovery.
A pretty good week. Happy to get a second 6c three days after doing so on the weekend, and pleased to be able to do all the moves on a 7a. A bit more stamina and that will go easily. No training on the weekend, but went out clubbing for the first time in ages which was great.
I seem to have developed a strangely sore shoulder. Doing plenty of stretching to sort it out.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for the tips Andy, and congrats on your 7a+.
First week of a three week strength & power phase. Begun cautiously, but ramped up fast:
M - CIR bouldering at V1. After a warm up for 10 or so V0-, did 15 V1s with less than 5min rest per problem.
T - 2.5 mile run.
W - CIR bouldering at V2. After a similar warm up, did 15 V2s with about 5 mins rest per attempt. Didn't get them all first go.
T - "instructing"
F - CIR bouldering at V3. Again, warmed up on V0-, V0 and V1. Then put in about 20 V3 attempts over about 1hr 40mins. Only sent 3, but made a lot of progress on quite a range of probelms
S - Ran 2.75 miles
S - cycled 9ish miles. Then had pub lunch And pub dinner, and a chocolate-ice-cream-and-bourbon milkshake. Whoops.
Pretty pleased with this week. Next week I plan to do some CIR bouldering at V2 with reduced rest, and some V3 sessions to try and send more problems. Hopefully the V3 sessions will also give me a more concrete picture of my technical strengths and weaknesses.
And knowing I can cycle 9 miles in 50 mins means I can attempt cycle commuting to work.
I've got a trip coming up now. Back three weeks of April in France. I think exclusively routes. I know endurance is my weak point, but 6-7 weeks of endurance training after this cycle will drive me INSANE. Any suggestions for mixing it up? Anyone know what character of routes I can expect of Langedoc?
Thanks for the tips Andy, and congrats on your 7a+.
First week of a three week strength & power phase. Begun cautiously, but ramped up fast:
M - CIR bouldering at V1. After a warm up for 10 or so V0-, did 15 V1s with less than 5min rest per problem.
T - 2.5 mile run.
W - CIR bouldering at V2. After a similar warm up, did 15 V2s with about 5 mins rest per attempt. Didn't get them all first go.
T - "instructing"
F - CIR bouldering at V3. Again, warmed up on V0-, V0 and V1. Then put in about 20 V3 attempts over about 1hr 40mins. Only sent 3, but made a lot of progress on quite a range of probelms
S - Ran 2.75 miles
S - cycled 9ish miles. Then had pub lunch And pub dinner, and a chocolate-ice-cream-and-bourbon milkshake. Whoops.
Pretty pleased with this week. Next week I plan to do some CIR bouldering at V2 with reduced rest, and some V3 sessions to try and send more problems. Hopefully the V3 sessions will also give me a more concrete picture of my technical strengths and weaknesses.
And knowing I can cycle 9 miles in 50 mins means I can attempt cycle commuting to work.
I've got a trip coming up now. Back three weeks of April in France. I think exclusively routes. I know endurance is my weak point, but 6-7 weeks of endurance training after this cycle will drive me INSANE. Any suggestions for mixing it up? Anyone know what character of routes I can expect of Langedoc?
In reply to agibb:
If you really want to focus on strength then reducing times between problems isn't the usual way - that's endurance really. I would suggest maybe trying a CIR on a mix of v2/3 and then focus on ticking off more V3s.
Whereabouts in the llanguedoc - is that adrian's trip? If so you will find a thread on both UKC and UKB about Orgon and about Thaurac that I started in the past week or so. Theres some other links ive found as well i can give you. If not I've been to some other bits before so happy to offer advice if it's somewhere Ive been. Also, it depends a lot on the grade range you are aiming at...
If you really want to focus on strength then reducing times between problems isn't the usual way - that's endurance really. I would suggest maybe trying a CIR on a mix of v2/3 and then focus on ticking off more V3s.
Whereabouts in the llanguedoc - is that adrian's trip? If so you will find a thread on both UKC and UKB about Orgon and about Thaurac that I started in the past week or so. Theres some other links ive found as well i can give you. If not I've been to some other bits before so happy to offer advice if it's somewhere Ive been. Also, it depends a lot on the grade range you are aiming at...
In reply to agibb:
Oh, and as for mixing up the endurance training, theres a load of different ways you can go.
For PE:
For aerobic endurance:
Theres a thread on UKB covering similar stuff at the minute. I now await corrections from the better informed.
But to be fair, with that variety of methods you should be able to keep it varied and interesting. And its almost certainly worth it.
Oh, and as for mixing up the endurance training, theres a load of different ways you can go.
For PE:
- 4x4s on problems - 4 problems back to back, rest, repeated 4 times. Can apparently be brutal if you judge the intensity right. I've struggled to make them work in the past but others (Nick for example) seem to get on well with them
- Circuits (easy) - a circuit of 20-30 moves, rest, repeat several times without full recovery (the key bit on all of these is incomplete recovery). Can work pretty well
- Circuits (hard) - get a circuit of 25-30 moves you can currently do in two, then do the two halves with an ever decreasing rest interval between them until you can do the whole thing. Something Steve McClure really rates
- intervals on routes - a personal favourite. Lead a route, lower off, untie, retie and then get straight back up there again. Repeat until climbing to fall whilst utterly boxed
- Redpointing hard routes - similar idea to the hard circuits in that you get really intense moves in, the more "power fade" end of p-e rather than laps on routes which gets a blistering pump on.
For aerobic endurance:
- ARC - 40 minutes or so of easy traversing, up-and-down on routes, that sort of thing. Aim for feeling sweaty and flushed but not pumped
- AeroCap - "hard ARC" - climbing for about 10 minutes, building up a slight pump and keeping it there, shaking it out - generally climbing whilst a bit pumped in control
- 4x4 on routes - do a route, lower off, get back on the wall whilst your belayer pulls the rope down and puts you back on belay, then repeat another 3 times to give 4 routes. Rest, then repeat 4 times
- Not quite in here, but when you get fitter mix the two up - do a hard route, downclimb an easy one, do a hard one, or do a hard cirucit then rest by shaking out on a jug, and repeat, etc - training both aerobic and anaerobic at once
Theres a thread on UKB covering similar stuff at the minute. I now await corrections from the better informed.
But to be fair, with that variety of methods you should be able to keep it varied and interesting. And its almost certainly worth it.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
STG (april 2011): 7b at malham (personal services, seventh aardvark)
MTG: (december 2011): 7b+ outdoors
Thurs: routes at westview. As the walls are quite short and steep it didn't really lend itself to lapped routes but I tried some lapping and some harder routes. I think the grading is a little generous as I've never managed a 7b at any indoor wall but did a 7b+ second go at west view.
Just one session again for me last week as other stuff got in the way and I wanted to rest the finger a bit. Next week I'm going to try three consecutive days on doing strength on day 1 then two days of 4x4 routes and another session at the weekend. I don't often do back to back days so it'll be interesting to see if the body can cope with it.
Thanks Andy,
STG (april 2011): 7b at malham (personal services, seventh aardvark)
MTG: (december 2011): 7b+ outdoors
Thurs: routes at westview. As the walls are quite short and steep it didn't really lend itself to lapped routes but I tried some lapping and some harder routes. I think the grading is a little generous as I've never managed a 7b at any indoor wall but did a 7b+ second go at west view.
Just one session again for me last week as other stuff got in the way and I wanted to rest the finger a bit. Next week I'm going to try three consecutive days on doing strength on day 1 then two days of 4x4 routes and another session at the weekend. I don't often do back to back days so it'll be interesting to see if the body can cope with it.
cheers AJM, not sure there's any such thing as a sure thing for me (after the last one took about 3 more sessions than it should have!), but fingers crossed.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B
M: 4.5m run, core (500), weights and theraband
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
W: 4.5m run & core (500)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
F: rest
S: churnet bouldering, then early valentines meal with lots of wine etc
S: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core
An ok week, not enough running due to a couple of niggles but good to get back to the churnet and try a few harder (for me) problems.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7A+/7B
M: 4.5m run, core (500), weights and theraband
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
W: 4.5m run & core (500)
T: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core (500)
F: rest
S: churnet bouldering, then early valentines meal with lots of wine etc
S: pull-ups, press-ups, BM: (warm up: 3x30 moves foot on + repeaters) then max hangs & core
An ok week, not enough running due to a couple of niggles but good to get back to the churnet and try a few harder (for me) problems.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg, currently 72kg down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:50 in slow conditions, Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.
Relatively low mileage week and did not race on Saturday due to having a few drinks on Friday night. Weight down to 71.2KG. Really pleased with my Sunday run, as was able to run the 17 at a decent pace with loads left in the tank.
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: 4 miles recovery run with some of the old guys from the club.
Wednesday: 5.5 miles hilly road steady / fast pace.
Thursday: 6 miles hilly road steady / fast pace with club.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Meant to be doing parkrun but didn't want to get up and went to the pub to watch football and rugby instead of running later.
Sunday: 17 miles hilly road steady pace.
Next week likely to be low mileage, with National XC on Saturday and beers and curry afterwards meaning that a long run on Sunday is unlikely.
Thanks
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg, currently 72kg down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:50 in slow conditions, Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.
Relatively low mileage week and did not race on Saturday due to having a few drinks on Friday night. Weight down to 71.2KG. Really pleased with my Sunday run, as was able to run the 17 at a decent pace with loads left in the tank.
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: 4 miles recovery run with some of the old guys from the club.
Wednesday: 5.5 miles hilly road steady / fast pace.
Thursday: 6 miles hilly road steady / fast pace with club.
Friday: Rest
Saturday: Meant to be doing parkrun but didn't want to get up and went to the pub to watch football and rugby instead of running later.
Sunday: 17 miles hilly road steady pace.
Next week likely to be low mileage, with National XC on Saturday and beers and curry afterwards meaning that a long run on Sunday is unlikely.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Not a bad week for me this week - starting to focus more on strength training now, but been feeling pretty tired all week, too tired to really do another big volume day, but I figure a week of resting from the volume is no bad thing. Need to get back on it this week.
STG
February training:4xV6, 1xV7. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 600 problems total vol & 2 laps of 15x V4/5 + 20x V0-3 in a session. 6x fingerboard. Shoulder health - stretching & rotator cuff.
Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
Indoor projects: Arch: black 7b+, red v7 done, Castle: blue (v7?) and orange (v6?) on wave.
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Goals for last week:
1x volume bouldering incl CIR fail, 1x strength + project bouldering tick x2, 2x fingerboard tick, 1x campus (touches) tick 2x pull ups, fail x1 2x weights sessions, tick 3x rotator cuff exercises tick
M: Fingerboard session. Javorek DB complexes to warm up, Max hangs (open hand), Heavy finger rolls.
T: Campus - laddering and touches. Boulder - poor (tired). 13 problems total (5xV0-, 5xV0-V3, 3xV4).
W: Routes. Bouldering (13 problems 8xV0-, 5xV0-V3) then working on Routes. Focusing on trying individual moves on new routes rather than redpointing anything to keep the session to a strength focus. Did all the moves on a 7b and 7a+ and all the moves bar one tricky one on a 7a. 7 pitches total. Bicep curls, pull ups, rotator cuff theraband stuff.
T:
F: AM Fingerboard session - DB complexes, fingerboard max hangs (crimps). PM boulder - new problems on panels, some repeats. Good strength and climbing well in the session but too tired still to really crank out the volume. 27 probs total (6xV0-, 11xV0-V3, 8xV4, 2xV5) new probs - 3xV4 and 1xV5 on panels. Good progress on panels V7 - soft? Trying blue v7 project on the wave, think I might be feeling a _little_ bit stronger on it - good news.
S: Arch. Some time on new set of routes in tunnel - flashed 6c, 7a (extended start to 6c) and got the 7b 2nd go - think these are substantially softer than previously. Some time trying the black. Strength training - focusing on setting 10 move sustained problems for hypertrophy - it seems this is the same sort of range as Anaerobic Capacity? Set one problem on the board on high undercuts + sidepulls, 14 moves total. (LM, f7a+/V4?) ~10 attempts, consistently linking ~10 moves in overlapping goes.
S:
Goals for this week:
1x volume bouldering incl CIR, 1 leading (bouldering on rope), 2 strength + project bouldering, 2x 10 move circuit sessions, 2x fingerboard, 1x campus (touches) 3x pull ups, 2x weights sessions, 3x rotator cuff exercises
Cheers Andy. Not a bad week for me this week - starting to focus more on strength training now, but been feeling pretty tired all week, too tired to really do another big volume day, but I figure a week of resting from the volume is no bad thing. Need to get back on it this week.
STG
February training:4xV6, 1xV7. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 600 problems total vol & 2 laps of 15x V4/5 + 20x V0-3 in a session. 6x fingerboard. Shoulder health - stretching & rotator cuff.
Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
Indoor projects: Arch: black 7b+, red v7 done, Castle: blue (v7?) and orange (v6?) on wave.
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Goals for last week:
1x volume bouldering incl CIR fail, 1x strength + project bouldering tick x2, 2x fingerboard tick, 1x campus (touches) tick 2x pull ups, fail x1 2x weights sessions, tick 3x rotator cuff exercises tick
M: Fingerboard session. Javorek DB complexes to warm up, Max hangs (open hand), Heavy finger rolls.
T: Campus - laddering and touches. Boulder - poor (tired). 13 problems total (5xV0-, 5xV0-V3, 3xV4).
W: Routes. Bouldering (13 problems 8xV0-, 5xV0-V3) then working on Routes. Focusing on trying individual moves on new routes rather than redpointing anything to keep the session to a strength focus. Did all the moves on a 7b and 7a+ and all the moves bar one tricky one on a 7a. 7 pitches total. Bicep curls, pull ups, rotator cuff theraband stuff.
T:
F: AM Fingerboard session - DB complexes, fingerboard max hangs (crimps). PM boulder - new problems on panels, some repeats. Good strength and climbing well in the session but too tired still to really crank out the volume. 27 probs total (6xV0-, 11xV0-V3, 8xV4, 2xV5) new probs - 3xV4 and 1xV5 on panels. Good progress on panels V7 - soft? Trying blue v7 project on the wave, think I might be feeling a _little_ bit stronger on it - good news.
S: Arch. Some time on new set of routes in tunnel - flashed 6c, 7a (extended start to 6c) and got the 7b 2nd go - think these are substantially softer than previously. Some time trying the black. Strength training - focusing on setting 10 move sustained problems for hypertrophy - it seems this is the same sort of range as Anaerobic Capacity? Set one problem on the board on high undercuts + sidepulls, 14 moves total. (LM, f7a+/V4?) ~10 attempts, consistently linking ~10 moves in overlapping goes.
S:
Goals for this week:
1x volume bouldering incl CIR, 1 leading (bouldering on rope), 2 strength + project bouldering, 2x 10 move circuit sessions, 2x fingerboard, 1x campus (touches) 3x pull ups, 2x weights sessions, 3x rotator cuff exercises
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
That clears that up cheers Tom.
What is An Cap training for then ? Looking at it i would think it's preparing to do a lot of hard climbing in a day e.g. being able to get more RP's in in a day.
Not just aimed at Tom anyone can answer.
> (In reply to AJM and Biscuit)
>
> Anyway, hope that helps. Hope you're both doing well and working towards you goals and enjoying the hard slog in the indoors walls!
>
> Tom
> Anyway, hope that helps. Hope you're both doing well and working towards you goals and enjoying the hard slog in the indoors walls!
>
> Tom
That clears that up cheers Tom.
What is An Cap training for then ? Looking at it i would think it's preparing to do a lot of hard climbing in a day e.g. being able to get more RP's in in a day.
Not just aimed at Tom anyone can answer.
In reply to Tom Randall - Lattice Training:
Thanks for your thoughts on anaerobic capacity Tom. Do you have any useful links to reading material on this? Curious as to what the rationale is/how it is supposed to work/what it is supposed to train.
I have just started doing sets of short circuits/long boulder problems (ie. 10 - 15 moves) under the understanding that this overlaps between hypertrophy and the strength end of strength endurance, but is better suited to hypertrophy gains than, say, threshold bouldering. Currently doing perhaps 8-10 attempts on each problem, starting with one problem but looking to move up to rotating between 4 or 5 per session.
I am now a bit confused as this sounds a lot like what you are describing. Is this basically anaerobic capacity, and is it doing what I think it is doing?
Thanks for your thoughts on anaerobic capacity Tom. Do you have any useful links to reading material on this? Curious as to what the rationale is/how it is supposed to work/what it is supposed to train.
I have just started doing sets of short circuits/long boulder problems (ie. 10 - 15 moves) under the understanding that this overlaps between hypertrophy and the strength end of strength endurance, but is better suited to hypertrophy gains than, say, threshold bouldering. Currently doing perhaps 8-10 attempts on each problem, starting with one problem but looking to move up to rotating between 4 or 5 per session.
I am now a bit confused as this sounds a lot like what you are describing. Is this basically anaerobic capacity, and is it doing what I think it is doing?
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
The realities of what it achieves are as follows:
1. Increased peak lactate production = better power on long hard sections of up to 15 moves.
2. The more lactate produced, the better the power, but you do need to have in place the ability to buffer this increased lactate i.e. why we all need to do all the hard stamina work, ARC etc. I won't go into the physiology as it's really boring!
3. Increased strength in bouldering.
4. I've not noticed any huge difference with muscle gain with myself or anyone else I train.
5. When transferred into peak performance training, it allows higher intensities to be achieved during that period.
The main characteristics of this training are as follows - although you'll find in some of the climbing literature out there that there are some errors.
1. Moves = 10-15
2. Rest must be equal or greater than climbing time
3. It doesn't work very well if traversing
4. Reps must be a minimum of 8
5. You shouldn't get pumped - more a "powered out" feeling.
Email me if you'd like an article to read.
The realities of what it achieves are as follows:
1. Increased peak lactate production = better power on long hard sections of up to 15 moves.
2. The more lactate produced, the better the power, but you do need to have in place the ability to buffer this increased lactate i.e. why we all need to do all the hard stamina work, ARC etc. I won't go into the physiology as it's really boring!
3. Increased strength in bouldering.
4. I've not noticed any huge difference with muscle gain with myself or anyone else I train.
5. When transferred into peak performance training, it allows higher intensities to be achieved during that period.
The main characteristics of this training are as follows - although you'll find in some of the climbing literature out there that there are some errors.
1. Moves = 10-15
2. Rest must be equal or greater than climbing time
3. It doesn't work very well if traversing
4. Reps must be a minimum of 8
5. You shouldn't get pumped - more a "powered out" feeling.
Email me if you'd like an article to read.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks for all the tips Andy. Are you the "other" Andy on Adrian's trip, then?
I've had difficulty with ARCing in the past. Find it very difficult to climb for that long without getting pumped. Also without annoying people at the wall. I guess the answer to the former is to just keep going as longs as possible, and improvement will come, and the latter is just tough.
That's also the reason why I'm gradually upping the cardio stuff at the moment too. I think I need to be generally fitter, and lighter.
Thanks for all the tips Andy. Are you the "other" Andy on Adrian's trip, then?
I've had difficulty with ARCing in the past. Find it very difficult to climb for that long without getting pumped. Also without annoying people at the wall. I guess the answer to the former is to just keep going as longs as possible, and improvement will come, and the latter is just tough.
That's also the reason why I'm gradually upping the cardio stuff at the moment too. I think I need to be generally fitter, and lighter.
In reply to plexiglass_nick and biscuit, and others:
Really interesting reading all your discussions at the moment. Very educational.
Really interesting reading all your discussions at the moment. Very educational.
In reply to AJM:
Hi AJM –
Congrats on the 7a+
Mon – Fingerboard.
Tues - Castle. Very tired, finished early without doing much.
Wedns – Castle. Surprisingly good session. 2x V3, 1x hard black, 1x blue. Progress on other stuff.
Thurs – Fingerboard.
Fri – Castle. 2x V3, 1x V4, 5x new blacks.
Sat – Arch. Flashed 6b and 6c in tunnel, got 7a second go. Got all the moves on the 7b individually.
Sun – Rest.
Hi AJM –
Congrats on the 7a+
Mon – Fingerboard.
Tues - Castle. Very tired, finished early without doing much.
Wedns – Castle. Surprisingly good session. 2x V3, 1x hard black, 1x blue. Progress on other stuff.
Thurs – Fingerboard.
Fri – Castle. 2x V3, 1x V4, 5x new blacks.
Sat – Arch. Flashed 6b and 6c in tunnel, got 7a second go. Got all the moves on the 7b individually.
Sun – Rest.
Thank you AJM:
(The only reason I'm climbing better than my friend is that she hasn't climbed for a year...)
M: lunchtime 40 minute run while it was sleeting. Evening swim 45 minutes.
Tu: cycled home from work - was a bit slow because it was cold and dark.
W: club swim 1 hour
Th: rest
F: gym, including rowing machine, core, weights and stationary bike.
Sa: run 45 minutes 7km.
Su: cycled 70km in 3 hours in a nasty blustery wind. Knackered.
(The only reason I'm climbing better than my friend is that she hasn't climbed for a year...)
M: lunchtime 40 minute run while it was sleeting. Evening swim 45 minutes.
Tu: cycled home from work - was a bit slow because it was cold and dark.
W: club swim 1 hour
Th: rest
F: gym, including rowing machine, core, weights and stationary bike.
Sa: run 45 minutes 7km.
Su: cycled 70km in 3 hours in a nasty blustery wind. Knackered.
In reply to AJM:
M- Indoor Bouldering T- Weights training
W- Indoor bouldering
Th- Rest
F- Indoor bouldering
S- Weights + Indoor routes
Su- Indoor bouldering
STG-
Get outside more.
V8 outdoor. (currently V7)
7b+ indoors. (currently 7b+) Done.
Finish building woodie Done.
Lead E4 (currently E3)
M- Indoor Bouldering T- Weights training
W- Indoor bouldering
Th- Rest
F- Indoor bouldering
S- Weights + Indoor routes
Su- Indoor bouldering
STG-
Get outside more.
V8 outdoor. (currently V7)
7b+ indoors. (currently 7b+) Done.
Finish building woodie Done.
Lead E4 (currently E3)
In reply to AJM: Cheers
Mon: Sprint intervals at lunch, 8x1min off 1min rest. Swim in evening including intervals (50m-200m)
Tue: Turbo Trainer, 35mins, including 20mins tempo effort.
Wed: Long Intervals, 6x1km with 500m easy in between.
Thu: 18.5k steady run.
Fri: 7k including short push towards end, legs felt tired.
Sat: 48k cycle around very flat roads near Selby
Sun: 9k broken run, on support duties for friends running Liversedge Half.
Steady week, nothing spectacular, but will do. Would probably like to do more moderately long runs of evening, but will probably wait until it's a little warmer and lighter. Nice to get out for a decent length ride at the weekend.
Just much the same this upcoming week.
Mon: Sprint intervals at lunch, 8x1min off 1min rest. Swim in evening including intervals (50m-200m)
Tue: Turbo Trainer, 35mins, including 20mins tempo effort.
Wed: Long Intervals, 6x1km with 500m easy in between.
Thu: 18.5k steady run.
Fri: 7k including short push towards end, legs felt tired.
Sat: 48k cycle around very flat roads near Selby
Sun: 9k broken run, on support duties for friends running Liversedge Half.
Steady week, nothing spectacular, but will do. Would probably like to do more moderately long runs of evening, but will probably wait until it's a little warmer and lighter. Nice to get out for a decent length ride at the weekend.
Just much the same this upcoming week.
In reply to AJM:
AJM, Scotland was awesome! Thanks for doing the stats
STG - 25:15 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 6/10 leads), 12st weight, Onsight 5+ (with out any dogging)
MTG - 25:00 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs, Climb 6a
LTG - 24:45 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight, Climb 6b
VLTG - Lead E1, Climb 6c, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 8lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Stob Coire nan Lochan - to warm and wet for routes, so winter skills instead
T - Ben Nevis - Coire na Cista - Number 3 Gully Butress, III
F - Coire an t'Sneachda - Invernookie III, 4
S - Ben Nevis - Coire na Ciste - Central Gully Right Hand - IV, 4
S - Stob Coire nan Lochan - Ordinary Route - IV, 5 (bailed after 3rd pitch)
Had a great time in Scotland. Really enjoyed it.The final day was pretty tough, but I managed the whole week quite well. The training seemed to have worked. I'd been really hoping to get onto a grade V, but it wasn't to be. Still climbed some technical 5 which I was happy about. In the end didn't do any leading, but I got a lot out of the week, so hopefully I'll do more leading in the rest of the season. Which for me will probably be only one weekend. Boo.
Put on a bit of weight, but then I just ate whatever, big bowls of pasta, chili, rice etc etc so keep my energy levels high. Back to eating sensibly now. Going to rest for this week. The last few days have been pretty tough for me, so need to give my body a bit of TLC.
AJM, Scotland was awesome! Thanks for doing the stats
STG - 25:15 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 6/10 leads), 12st weight, Onsight 5+ (with out any dogging)
MTG - 25:00 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs, Climb 6a
LTG - 24:45 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight, Climb 6b
VLTG - Lead E1, Climb 6c, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 8lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Stob Coire nan Lochan - to warm and wet for routes, so winter skills instead
T - Ben Nevis - Coire na Cista - Number 3 Gully Butress, III
F - Coire an t'Sneachda - Invernookie III, 4
S - Ben Nevis - Coire na Ciste - Central Gully Right Hand - IV, 4
S - Stob Coire nan Lochan - Ordinary Route - IV, 5 (bailed after 3rd pitch)
Had a great time in Scotland. Really enjoyed it.The final day was pretty tough, but I managed the whole week quite well. The training seemed to have worked. I'd been really hoping to get onto a grade V, but it wasn't to be. Still climbed some technical 5 which I was happy about. In the end didn't do any leading, but I got a lot out of the week, so hopefully I'll do more leading in the rest of the season. Which for me will probably be only one weekend. Boo.
Put on a bit of weight, but then I just ate whatever, big bowls of pasta, chili, rice etc etc so keep my energy levels high. Back to eating sensibly now. Going to rest for this week. The last few days have been pretty tough for me, so need to give my body a bit of TLC.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, managed to get out to the Peak on Saturday, cracking day. Fingers crossed for this weekend too.
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.
Goals for the past week were 1 x campus session, 1 x hard boulder (attempts on V6 & V7 projects) & possibly some campus, 1 x anaerobic session on the routes (inc RP attempt on 7b).
M - Power: Campus @ Castle. Started off tired and struggling to even warm up. Persevered, and went on to a PB sess!! Hit 1-3-6/1-4-6 on middle rungs. Feeling 1-4-7 is now possible.
T - rest
W - PE: Routes @ Castle. 3 x RP efforts on 7b. 1 fall each time, very close. Failing around crux clip.
T - Power: Bouldering & Campus @ Castle; Worked Pen Yellow V7. Tired but repeated hard moves. Good campus, consistently hitting 1-3-6/1-4-6 on the middle rungs, and making attempts at 1-4-7
F - rest
S - Bouldering @ Robin Hood's Stride & Cratcliffe; Consistently getting into crux move of Ben's Wall; progress. Worked moves on Jerry's Traverse, linked some, still can't do 2 or 3 moves; progress. Consistently climbing to crux on Razor Roof RH; can't hold swing but tired and losing skin at end of day; progress. Good day!
S - 10km run.
I had meant to work anaerobic endurance this week but decided that doesn't really fit with what I want to achieve right now, which is redpointing shorter power routes and bouldering, so am tweaking the plan accordingly.
A pretty good week really. I'm in that phase that seems to happen to me where I'm close to stuff, but no cigar, then hopefully it all falls! Interestingly, in this one week I've hit a PB on the campus board, am close to my hardest indoor boulder problem, and am very close to getting back to a best indoor routes grade. Plus progress on the grit projects. Can't say I've ever had all things converging before, it's usually routes or bouldering, while the other suffers. Liking this training plan! I don't 'feel' that fit though... weird.
This week and next is a rest and test week, and I've set myself goals of getting V7 and 7b at the wall. So I've got planned...
1 x performance boulder
1 x performance routes
A day or two routes or bouldering at the weekend, weather depending...
Cheers Andy, managed to get out to the Peak on Saturday, cracking day. Fingers crossed for this weekend too.
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.
Goals for the past week were 1 x campus session, 1 x hard boulder (attempts on V6 & V7 projects) & possibly some campus, 1 x anaerobic session on the routes (inc RP attempt on 7b).
M - Power: Campus @ Castle. Started off tired and struggling to even warm up. Persevered, and went on to a PB sess!! Hit 1-3-6/1-4-6 on middle rungs. Feeling 1-4-7 is now possible.
T - rest
W - PE: Routes @ Castle. 3 x RP efforts on 7b. 1 fall each time, very close. Failing around crux clip.
T - Power: Bouldering & Campus @ Castle; Worked Pen Yellow V7. Tired but repeated hard moves. Good campus, consistently hitting 1-3-6/1-4-6 on the middle rungs, and making attempts at 1-4-7
F - rest
S - Bouldering @ Robin Hood's Stride & Cratcliffe; Consistently getting into crux move of Ben's Wall; progress. Worked moves on Jerry's Traverse, linked some, still can't do 2 or 3 moves; progress. Consistently climbing to crux on Razor Roof RH; can't hold swing but tired and losing skin at end of day; progress. Good day!
S - 10km run.
I had meant to work anaerobic endurance this week but decided that doesn't really fit with what I want to achieve right now, which is redpointing shorter power routes and bouldering, so am tweaking the plan accordingly.
A pretty good week really. I'm in that phase that seems to happen to me where I'm close to stuff, but no cigar, then hopefully it all falls! Interestingly, in this one week I've hit a PB on the campus board, am close to my hardest indoor boulder problem, and am very close to getting back to a best indoor routes grade. Plus progress on the grit projects. Can't say I've ever had all things converging before, it's usually routes or bouldering, while the other suffers. Liking this training plan! I don't 'feel' that fit though... weird.
This week and next is a rest and test week, and I've set myself goals of getting V7 and 7b at the wall. So I've got planned...
1 x performance boulder
1 x performance routes
A day or two routes or bouldering at the weekend, weather depending...
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
Another less than ideal week, 3 sessions at home, 1 at the wall. Was working in rehearsals the weekend so I had miss out at least one session. Really lacking endurance and did leave the wall feeling a little demoralised, but I know I just got to grin and bear until the tour done with. If time allows will try and visit a few walls while on the road, won’t have long, but if I do I maybe looking for partners, morning to early afternoons near the venues below, if there one easy enough to get to of course, though I expect that realistically I may just get a hour of bouldering if I'm lucky. See what happens when I’m out there. Few weeks to think about that one, must try and get a good hard week in next week.
18th Feb : Buxton,
04th Mar : Liverpool,
05th Mar : Cambridge,
06th Mar : Lincoln
08th Mar : Bournemouth,
09th Mar : Bristol
10th Mar : Leeds,
11th Mar : Glasgow
12th Mar : Nottingham,
13th Mar : Newcastle
15th Mar : Southampton,
16th Mar : Norwich,
17th Mar : Birmingham,
18th Mar : Manchester,
19th Mar : London,
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s
Cheers Andy,
Another less than ideal week, 3 sessions at home, 1 at the wall. Was working in rehearsals the weekend so I had miss out at least one session. Really lacking endurance and did leave the wall feeling a little demoralised, but I know I just got to grin and bear until the tour done with. If time allows will try and visit a few walls while on the road, won’t have long, but if I do I maybe looking for partners, morning to early afternoons near the venues below, if there one easy enough to get to of course, though I expect that realistically I may just get a hour of bouldering if I'm lucky. See what happens when I’m out there. Few weeks to think about that one, must try and get a good hard week in next week.
18th Feb : Buxton,
04th Mar : Liverpool,
05th Mar : Cambridge,
06th Mar : Lincoln
08th Mar : Bournemouth,
09th Mar : Bristol
10th Mar : Leeds,
11th Mar : Glasgow
12th Mar : Nottingham,
13th Mar : Newcastle
15th Mar : Southampton,
16th Mar : Norwich,
17th Mar : Birmingham,
18th Mar : Manchester,
19th Mar : London,
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s
In reply to AJM:
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 10.3% fat.
Focus:
Mon: Rehab exercises.
Tue: Rehab exercises.
Wed: Rehab exercises.
Thu: Rehab exercises.
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.
I'm getting so lazy at training I can hardly be bothered recording my (brief) sessions or posting here anymore.
Elbow remains knackered.
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 10.3% fat.
Focus:
Mon: Rehab exercises.
Tue: Rehab exercises.
Wed: Rehab exercises.
Thu: Rehab exercises.
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.
I'm getting so lazy at training I can hardly be bothered recording my (brief) sessions or posting here anymore.
Elbow remains knackered.
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM. First 50m week this year, which I know is chickenfeed to many, but it feels like I'm getting somewhere.
M: 10m with 6m @ 6:50 pace - HR lower than of late
T: 5m steady
W: 10m steady with a 6:30 mile to finish
T: 5m recovery
F: Travelling
S: V early 20 miler - 7am down from Bolton Abbey to Ilkley, met club people then did 10m including 2x5min and 5x6min efforts, then 5m back to the car.
S: Nowt
That's now 2x20 milers done and no injury. One more to do this week then a cutback, before (for me) we hit high mileage through March. Not sure whether sub-3 is on, but as the 3 Peaks is looming after London I might settle for a 3:15 and an enjoyable 3 Peaks.
M: 10m with 6m @ 6:50 pace - HR lower than of late
T: 5m steady
W: 10m steady with a 6:30 mile to finish
T: 5m recovery
F: Travelling
S: V early 20 miler - 7am down from Bolton Abbey to Ilkley, met club people then did 10m including 2x5min and 5x6min efforts, then 5m back to the car.
S: Nowt
That's now 2x20 milers done and no injury. One more to do this week then a cutback, before (for me) we hit high mileage through March. Not sure whether sub-3 is on, but as the 3 Peaks is looming after London I might settle for a 3:15 and an enjoyable 3 Peaks.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM,
a three session week with no illness... amazing...
T: depot, good PE session, laps on 20 degree board and laps on the big roof.
Th: citybloc, some good new stuff, power, top end attempts some good, encouraging
Sun: Harrogate, stepped it up from last week's trundle, 3.5 hours, multiple 6c/6c+ stuff, maintained but managed a decent pump, battered by the end though.
hoping for a three session week this week, encouraged by gains in stamina and hints of returning power.
Cheers AJM,
a three session week with no illness... amazing...
T: depot, good PE session, laps on 20 degree board and laps on the big roof.
Th: citybloc, some good new stuff, power, top end attempts some good, encouraging
Sun: Harrogate, stepped it up from last week's trundle, 3.5 hours, multiple 6c/6c+ stuff, maintained but managed a decent pump, battered by the end though.
hoping for a three session week this week, encouraged by gains in stamina and hints of returning power.
In reply to leon:
Leon, one of the best threads I ever read about elbow problems, and what the real causes are here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10847.msg182899.html#msg18289...
I used to have chronic elbow problems, but this made me think about it in relation to my generally poor posture (including during training) and the difference has been nothing short of miraculous for me - I can't claim my elbows are perfect, but they are so much better.
I appreciate everyone is different, and their injuries have different causes, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Good luck finding something to help - it's a really frustrating problem.
Leon, one of the best threads I ever read about elbow problems, and what the real causes are here:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,10847.msg182899.html#msg18289...
I used to have chronic elbow problems, but this made me think about it in relation to my generally poor posture (including during training) and the difference has been nothing short of miraculous for me - I can't claim my elbows are perfect, but they are so much better.
I appreciate everyone is different, and their injuries have different causes, but I thought it was worth mentioning. Good luck finding something to help - it's a really frustrating problem.
In reply to AJM:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: rest
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Thu: Bouldered at The Arch up to V6, yay!
Fri: rest
Sat: 6k run
Sun: rest
Not a bad week, rested the fingers again at the weekend. Glad to get the V6, it was soft, but as they say...
Probably got a quiet week coming up though visiting the in-laws
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: rest
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at Castle up to V5
Thu: Bouldered at The Arch up to V6, yay!
Fri: rest
Sat: 6k run
Sun: rest
Not a bad week, rested the fingers again at the weekend. Glad to get the V6, it was soft, but as they say...
Probably got a quiet week coming up though visiting the in-laws
In reply to leon:
Come on mate keep focused.
Pain in the arse that it's come back but i seem to remember when you first joined you had the same issues.
Nose to the grindstone or what are the options ? Give up on your aspirations, stop climbing ? Not a chance you've made some massive gains these last few months.
My elbow problems ( classic font elbow ) stopped after changing my climbing style. Took some work but it's had the right effect. Found the info to do it on dave Mac's site.
COME ON !
Once you are better keep up with the exercises as pre hab.
Come on mate keep focused.
Pain in the arse that it's come back but i seem to remember when you first joined you had the same issues.
Nose to the grindstone or what are the options ? Give up on your aspirations, stop climbing ? Not a chance you've made some massive gains these last few months.
My elbow problems ( classic font elbow ) stopped after changing my climbing style. Took some work but it's had the right effect. Found the info to do it on dave Mac's site.
COME ON !
Once you are better keep up with the exercises as pre hab.
In reply to biscuit:
Pretty much what he said.
Ps saw your mail biscuit - did it go to the other two as well? Will reply later when I've more time.
Pretty much what he said.
Ps saw your mail biscuit - did it go to the other two as well? Will reply later when I've more time.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, it turns out being 30 isn't so bad. Who knew!?
It's sort of accidentally been a week of walking for me, not something I'm normally into but it's sociable and better for me than last weekends drinking. The climbing this week has been a mixed bag, it started well with a quick-ish redpoint of my current indoor project, one which would have been quicker had I not kept letting go of the huge finishing jug! Roughly 7 goes over 2 proper sessions is ok for now and a bit better than the tail end of last years sport season. A couple of decent size falls going for moves (above a naughty skipped clip) and the fact it mostly felt very steady suggest I'm in reasonable physical and mental shape for the coming season. Stamina and CV fitness do need some work though which means some volume sessions and back to regular running for me. Not sure why I'm not running anyway, just out of the habit I guess and I dislike feeling unfit and struggling for the first few sessions.
Elbows, shoulders, fingers, toes and spine are all grumbling a bit but as ever it'll be a case of finding a working balance and not actually snapping anything rather than curing them.
M: Indoor, Oaklands. Redpointing session. Bagged my 7b+ project 3rd go after falling twice from the chains.
T: Birthday, excessive consumption
W: Day off work walking walking, Rydale ~6mi
T: Indoors, Oaklands. Totally lacklustre, no energy
F:
S: Walking, Skiddaw ~12mi
S: Walking, Derwentw*ter ~4mi
Goals for the year, much as before:
Keep motivated and uninjured
Something in the 7c/8a range
<40min 10k
jk
Thanks Andy, it turns out being 30 isn't so bad. Who knew!?
It's sort of accidentally been a week of walking for me, not something I'm normally into but it's sociable and better for me than last weekends drinking. The climbing this week has been a mixed bag, it started well with a quick-ish redpoint of my current indoor project, one which would have been quicker had I not kept letting go of the huge finishing jug! Roughly 7 goes over 2 proper sessions is ok for now and a bit better than the tail end of last years sport season. A couple of decent size falls going for moves (above a naughty skipped clip) and the fact it mostly felt very steady suggest I'm in reasonable physical and mental shape for the coming season. Stamina and CV fitness do need some work though which means some volume sessions and back to regular running for me. Not sure why I'm not running anyway, just out of the habit I guess and I dislike feeling unfit and struggling for the first few sessions.
Elbows, shoulders, fingers, toes and spine are all grumbling a bit but as ever it'll be a case of finding a working balance and not actually snapping anything rather than curing them.
M: Indoor, Oaklands. Redpointing session. Bagged my 7b+ project 3rd go after falling twice from the chains.
T: Birthday, excessive consumption
W: Day off work walking walking, Rydale ~6mi
T: Indoors, Oaklands. Totally lacklustre, no energy
F:
S: Walking, Skiddaw ~12mi
S: Walking, Derwentw*ter ~4mi
Goals for the year, much as before:
Keep motivated and uninjured
Something in the 7c/8a range
<40min 10k
jk
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy. Goals as before.
Mon - rest
Tues - volume bouldering at the Hangar. Did a couple of thing's I'd previously failed on.
Wed - Fingerboard 30 mins, repeaters mainly
Thurs - rest
Fri - Fingerboard, 45 mins, working front2/back3
Sat - Family
Sun - The Hangar. 3 1/2 hours bouldering, did lots, felt tired at the end.
Andy F
Mon - rest
Tues - volume bouldering at the Hangar. Did a couple of thing's I'd previously failed on.
Wed - Fingerboard 30 mins, repeaters mainly
Thurs - rest
Fri - Fingerboard, 45 mins, working front2/back3
Sat - Family
Sun - The Hangar. 3 1/2 hours bouldering, did lots, felt tired at the end.
Andy F
In reply to AJM:
Thanks again Andy.
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
Week 6 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Feb
V7 and onsight 7a+, redpoint 7b(in or out)
Medium: May
V8, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
Rest week so mailnly chilling in preperation for testing next week. I managed a terrible routes session on Tuesday which was awful to say the least, fell off lots I shouldn't have.
Saturday got out for the first day of the year and managed to fall off a 7a I flashed last year, things were not looking good though the weather was lovely! Got on 7b+ Prisonner of Concience very cruxy route with boulder problem at bottom took a while to work the moves and then had a mare on the easier section at the top. Was getting frustrated and then it came together. Hap one good RP attempt and made it to third clip fell and broke a bolt (lonf story but was OK). One more attempt after a rest left me finding I had ran out of steam will go next time!
Sunday had a bouldering session and managed to fash some V5's and unlock the sequence on a V7 so more positive news. Felt wasted by the evening, oops was meant to rest need to be more disciplined.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehap/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
This Weeks Goals:
- 7b+ RP at Harlow
- V7 yellow at ME
- 7a+ flash attempt at ME
- 7b+ RP Prisonner of Concience.
Weight: 76.4kg
Time to Test next week and see if this works!!!
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks again Andy.
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
Week 6 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Feb
V7 and onsight 7a+, redpoint 7b(in or out)
Medium: May
V8, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
Rest week so mailnly chilling in preperation for testing next week. I managed a terrible routes session on Tuesday which was awful to say the least, fell off lots I shouldn't have.
Saturday got out for the first day of the year and managed to fall off a 7a I flashed last year, things were not looking good though the weather was lovely! Got on 7b+ Prisonner of Concience very cruxy route with boulder problem at bottom took a while to work the moves and then had a mare on the easier section at the top. Was getting frustrated and then it came together. Hap one good RP attempt and made it to third clip fell and broke a bolt (lonf story but was OK). One more attempt after a rest left me finding I had ran out of steam will go next time!
Sunday had a bouldering session and managed to fash some V5's and unlock the sequence on a V7 so more positive news. Felt wasted by the evening, oops was meant to rest need to be more disciplined.
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehap/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
This Weeks Goals:
- 7b+ RP at Harlow
- V7 yellow at ME
- 7a+ flash attempt at ME
- 7b+ RP Prisonner of Concience.
Weight: 76.4kg
Time to Test next week and see if this works!!!
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Yes, I'm very happy with the progress. It's not been easy and I still get those negative feelings some days, especially when tired. I've come to understand that this is pretty normal, though, and that helps loads.
Really easy week this week due to work and just generally feeling tired. Still made progress with lead total though so I'm happy. Added another short-term goal to aid indoor blues; Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (16 DONE).
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (0 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (0 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (16 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Route session at Audley. Quite restricted, as there aren't many lead lines, but still managed to get 5 leads done comfortably. Felt very confident.
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Working
S: Working and Rest
S: Rest
Weight: 141.4 lbs (+1 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: Measurements playing up again, showing between 6-7%. I know my fat percentage is very low but I think that's taking the pish!
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.
Cheers Andy. Yes, I'm very happy with the progress. It's not been easy and I still get those negative feelings some days, especially when tired. I've come to understand that this is pretty normal, though, and that helps loads.
Really easy week this week due to work and just generally feeling tired. Still made progress with lead total though so I'm happy. Added another short-term goal to aid indoor blues; Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (16 DONE).
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (0 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (0 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (16 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Route session at Audley. Quite restricted, as there aren't many lead lines, but still managed to get 5 leads done comfortably. Felt very confident.
W: Rest
T: Rest
F: Working
S: Working and Rest
S: Rest
Weight: 141.4 lbs (+1 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: Measurements playing up again, showing between 6-7%. I know my fat percentage is very low but I think that's taking the pish!
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...