UKC

Enzo Oddo has made the 4th ascent of kevin Jorgeson's Ambrosia on the Grandpa peabody at the Buttermilks near Bishop, California. Since Kevin's first ascent, both Alex Honnold and Isaac Caldiero have refined the method of climbing this ~14m monster of a highball. This has made the grade come down...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60438

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Video of the ascent online at http://www.youtube.com/user/PranaCollective#p/u/12/-j53HLSTv_o

In reply to Alex Thompson:

I love that photo and the seeming futility of a spot.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Very impressive.....but bordering on child abuse!

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Bloody hell - he's a long way up!

Mick

In reply to Mick Ward:

Most impressive ascent I've heard of for a while plus he is so young and French!

Once on that upper wall the potential Is death or worse.

Mick in Maine , USA

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

I interpret the lack of forum responses as a sign of shock and awe. Because this is effing unbelievable. His website has some stunning pix as well, never heard of the lad before.

In reply to gritstoner:

Shocked and awed.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: What kind of brit E grade would that be 8/9? Looks like a hard move at half height then steady to the top. Impressive stuff.

In reply to Paul R:

E10 7a/7b????

In reply to Paul R:

Looked a bit snatchy just below the top too.


Chris

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Fook! There's highball and then there's highball and that' is definitely highball!

Amazing send by the French machine! This is not a highball though, its a full on route. A boulder grade for this is just silly. This is higher than most grit routes!

In reply to hamerboy:

Agree.

E

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Forgive my ignorance but have the ascents been pre-practiced or ground-up?

In reply to Michael Gordon: Hed top roped the upper section and bouldered out the bottom section.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Has anyone fallen from that kind of height onto a BIG pile of mats?
How dangerous is it to do that?
James

In reply to Paul R: Would have to get E10 for sure, maybe higher? Dunno if he had a bouncy castle beneath the landing.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Didn't George Ullrich climb the upper part of this usng a ladder to skip out the desperate bottom after he pulled a hold off, before Jorgeson did it? I think the footage is in Call It What You Want...

Or am I thinking of summat else?

Dunc

In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:


Worse than death? Dear lord, that would be a bad fall..

In reply to Conor1:

most people think paralysis is worse than death

In reply to jonny2vests:

He's not spotting, he's getting ready to wave goodbye.

In reply to Lurkio: Not impressed by bouldering clips usually. In fact i find them mind-numbingly borring. But that is something else, incredible climber. Such poise.
Will

In reply to remus:

Thanks. Pretty good style I'd say, though does seem a bit pointless to call it a highball if a rope has had to be employed previously - more like a headpoint. 'Highball' I think should really denote that the climb has been done ground-up (which bouldering should be).

In reply to beastofackworth:
I was going to reply to Mick Ryan's post about that but you beat me to it, complete paralysis in my opinion is defiantly worse.... however losing say just the legs, although it would put a downer on your day.... I think I would still prefer it to death....

In reply to Michael Gordon:

Call it what you will . It's not bouldering, it's route with no gear done headpoint style, like a hard grit route. V11/font 8a to get off the deck then hard to the top.

Yes George U was the first to do the top, using a ladder or something to avoid the hard initial moves... Hold broke/midsummer/ran out iof time

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Impressive bit of climbing. Would have been nice to have somebody without the DTs filming though.

In reply to Wee Davie:

lol - I did think that too. The guy on the boulder behind at least had a tripod. Maybe we'll see that footage some time.

In reply to gritstoner:

Born and brought up in Nice his dad is a strong very keen sport climber.From the interview the lad gave in Grimper mag it appears his
first7c(@11 yrs old) quickly led to (3 years later) 9a! Amazing.....

In reply to Fraser:

It's child abuse.

In reply to ncianca:
no it isnt

In reply to krank:

Of course, technically it (probably) isn't. Still, I wouldn't encourage my son/daughter or any other 16 year old kid/girl doing anything that carries such high level of serious injury or death. I wouldn't encourage it, but of course I couldn't stop him/her. Just my opinion. Impressive feat nonetheless.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

In climb mag, I think Kevin compared it to E9

In reply to ncianca:

Sorry. Can't agree with the suggestion that he doesn't have free will at this age. He's 16 years old. He can get married, have children (although can't drink or vote!).

In reply to Ben Darvill:

I didn't suggest that. I just said I wouldn't encourage it. Of course he has free will. At any age one has free will.