UKC

For a long time now, we have become used to Adam Ondra repeating everything hard in every style everywhere. Lately he has began making more and more hard first ascents however, presumably because there's simply not much hard left for him to repeat.
His latest addition, La Capella in the La Capella...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=60472

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: What 'First first ascent of a 9b' means? Or in general 'First first ascent'? I'm puzzled...

In reply to LukaszWarzecha:

As in, Ondra has repeated a number of 9bs now but this is the first time he has done the first ascent of one. Maybe.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Be very curious to see if this grade sticks. Most of the 9Bs climbed to date appear to have been so much longer than 15m. If it sticks would this then be the most technically difficult sport route in the world, rather than a power endurance route?

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Amazing and totally inspiring. Thanks for putting it on.

"How could I get so pumped?"

How indeed...

Mick

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

You really get an impression of how driven he must be in the golpe de estado footage. Screaming in anger and pulling back up the rope to try again as soon as he's off. Very inspiring.

In reply to michael83:

I expect he won't be far off with the grade. He's not exactly short of experience in cutting edge sport climbs! But I guess it's pretty hard to grade something so short, hence his reluctance to put a number on it.

I was up at Siurana last Thursday and heard some familiar screams coming from all the way across the other side of the valley. I said to my girlfriend jokingly "It sounds like Ondra's back"...turns out I was right!

Amazing effort from him once again. Presumably the climbing on it is very good for him to have invested some time in it, as the line is not the most inspiring!

In reply to michael83:
After Gaskin's Violent New Breed perhaps... you can see the holds on this one.

In reply to ali k: haha, thats hilarious. The roars of Ondra in the distance echo round Siurana like a wild beast! I too think the grade will probably stick, Ondra is known for being fairly conservative in his grading. Definitely not one to overinflate anything. Also, the route looks disgustingly hard from the video!

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:
Awesome stuff.
I'd love to see him speak. Someone should arrange a lecture tour.
James

In reply to James Oswald:

Nah. We want to hear him roar like a wild beast. That's more fun!

Mick

In reply to James Oswald:

In truth very few kids of his age are good speakers !

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC:

Inspiring video of probably the best sport climber in the world, the grade of 9b will be spot on I think as he has already climbed numerous routes in the 9a/9b bracket !

Just waiting for him to come to LPT, see how fast he could repeat Neil Carson`s `Big Bang`, might be harder than 9a !

mills.

In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Best bit of that is when he says "merely 9a+"

Have any other top climbers tried this route, and if so, how did it go for them?

In reply to mallory45:
According to Adam Ondra, Dave Graham, Dani Andrada, Ramon Julian and Klem Loskot tried this route. It was few years back thought and no one mady any significant progress on it.

source: http://www.lezec.cz/clanek.php?key=9257&nazev=rozhovor_s_adamem_ondrou_...