The past week has been very unsettled with strong winds and heavy snowfall at times. This has led to an excellent buildup of snow on most northern aspects.
It has also meant that the avalanche risk has been quite high especially on the popular climber's descent routes such as the Goat Track. The risk of falling through the large cornice when navigating across the plateau in white conditions has also been high with several incidents and close shaves witnessed or reported.
Despite the storms many routes have been climbed in unexpected perfect weather windows taking advantage of the snow banking on many routes mixed routes and the firm consolidated or scoured snow.
Thursday's unexpected alpine like weather gave a few the opportunity to really see how good the snow buildup was and it is excellent.
All we need now is a period of settled cold climbing weather rather than lots more wind and snow - unfortunately we may get the later or not!
Despite the stormy weather forecasts what the past few weeks have highlighted is how poor the computer forecasting service is with many completely contradicting reports and local variations sometimes invalidating any avalanche risk based on them.
Self reliance, route choice, navigation and the ability to assess the weather and avalanche risks are more important than having the latest bit of kit. If you want to winter climb safely in Scotland or the Greater Ranges remember it's not an indoor ice wall or single pitch top rope venue. It's more than likely 90% mountaineering and 10% technical climbing!
I've uploaded lots of photos from Thursday to give an idea of the buildup but this can and WILL change with the weather!!
See
http://talisman-activities.blogspot.com/ also see the other UKC post and some good links at
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=447129
Also see
http://www.theepicentre.co.uk/blog/mixedmaster and
http://www.snowdoniamountaineering.blogspot.com and
http://graniteandice.blogspot.com/2011/02/cumming-crofton-vi6.html
Have fun but stay safe.
Ron Walker (MIC, IML)
UKC's Cairngorm's correspondent!