UKC

UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.

For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here: 
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...

A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.

Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.

Link to last weeks (204) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=446363

Repeat posters - 42
AJM
phja - good effort on the 6a and especially the V3 flash
petestack - hope you had a good time at Glenmore Lodge
biscuit - good to hear the power is coming back
Eric the Red - good week
Thickhead - hope the readjustment to work and family life is going well and allowing you the odd leg-stretch occasionally
grubes - enjoying Chorro
ayuplass - I've never found it possible to do enough calf raises - whatever I do they are always still on fire
Stone_Donkey - busy being businesslike
Daniel Heath - good effort on the PB
Charlie_Zero - seeing progress is good.
TonyB - you'll be able to get that rest interval down as you build fitness - the ability to recover builds pretty fast so I reckon you'll be down to shorter intervals pretty soon.
Miles - hope you've managed to find some solutions to your injury
Sankey - maybe its worth thinking of some inspiring routes/trips/etc that will motivate you - even if not immediately practical, they at least give you a light to aim towards
Jeriqo - steady progress
Nexonen - did you manage more?
Steve John B - bad luck..
Shauna - apart from Sunday it sounds like a pretty good week. Convincing the mind is often the crux
Mark Torrance - sounds like a week of ups and downs, Friday vs Saturday in particular....
IainRUK - how long til the cast is off hen? Running with it sounds a pain.
Kevster - did you make it to Brean? I thought about trying to get out yesterday, but the rain hammering down half the early hours put me off
seankenny - good session Wed from the look of it, reckon that 7a should go soon
agibb - sounds like a good week. If you look at the articles archive on kirkleesclimbing.co.uk theres a good article on Thaurac.
Eagle River - 7b+ 2nd go eh - good effort even if its a bit soft.
chris05 - fair enough - fingers crossed for your next go
The New NickB - sounds like a good Sunday session
plexiglass_nick - sounds like a solid week. Like the idea of your (Malham-focused) circuit on sidepulls and undercuts....
Curious Yellow - sounds like a pretty good week
fimm - Sunday sounds hardcore
Neils - busy week
Liam M - steady week
mattrm - sounds like a great trip, nice one
catt - glad you enjoyed Cratcliff. Need to get back up to the Peak sometime, but its just so hard when Snowdonia and Pembroke are the same distance
Murd - I'd join you on the 9th, but I think its midweek, so the times won't match so well....
leon - keep trying to post - you might find it helps motivate you a bit more than otherwise
andy - good 50m week
richardh - sounds like a good week
viking - take the tick whilst its there
jkarran - not only having ticked the 7b+ but also the way you sound about it suggests youll be set up for a good season
andy farnell - good week
Goonie - whats the story behind this broken bolt then? Have requested access to your s'sheets too, see if I can get my head round it
Steve Perry (Pezz) - another 5 leads - nice one

Absentees - 3
Karl Wooffindin
james greenfield
JimmyKay - crushing in Chorro still

In reply to AJM:

M: TCA. Not very stamina-focused but not a bad session, got on some of the kids boulder comp problems, many of which featured tiny holds and were actually quite nails.
T: Rest
W: Cycled to and from work - 47km. Felt like purgatory - I was never that fit when I was doing it regularly but in comparison with this effort I was Lance Armstrong! Still, managed it, just about.
T: Warehouse. Terrible time - the centre had stripped 4 routes, but those included my 7a+ project and the 6c+ and 6b+ I'd been using for my stamina laps - gutted!
Wall was rammed so couldn't do so much but had a go at a few 6c onsights I'd been saving. Got one, which is my first 6c onsight indoors, and peeled from the last move of another, which to be honest felt like it would have been 6c even if they had put the chains one move lower - horrendous slopy pinch (and this probably oversells it) as the final hold with awkward feet. Still, chuffed with getting that far on it - was climbing in the kind of way I should be on both.
F: Rest
S: Did a bunch of frenchies on the fingerboard - I can't hold on for too long on the smooth wood so instead of going for how many I could do I was doing one (the 3 pullups with lockoffs in different places), taking a short incomplte rest, and then repeating. Probably did about 8 in the end I guess. Also went to a Steve McClure lecture down at the wall which was cool
S: Going to go to the wall later, try some of the comp routes they replaced mine with

Will post again later with some re-shuffled goals and also an update on my Sunday wall session.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy. I'd planned to have a restful week with just two sessions and it's gone as planned.

Tue - Bouldering: various problems including 6C on pockets and I came really close to a Font 6/7 (what a stupid grade!) on the large roof. This felt pretty good as I normally ignore the roof climbing. I was also trying a fairly hard problem on the 45 degree wall. I managed to link several moves but really struggled to keep my feet on on some of the larger moves. My friend had similar success but was much better at keeping her feet on. Finished up with some core exercises.

Wed - Routes. The session started pretty poorly. I was expecting to be able to run laps on 6b+. Admittedly, I chose the first route poorly (an old greasy one) but couldn't manage 2 laps. Thereafter it got a bit better but I am really lacking fitness. Finished the day with fall practice which felt good.

Thur - Yoga
Fri-Sun rest

Our bouldering cave has an osteopath visiting one afternoon a week. I had a few minor niggling injuries so I booked an appointment which was really worthwhile. As well as getting beta for potential 8as in Finland, I got really good advice about stretching and some pretty intense massage. I suffer from quite a few of the usual problems in climbers. I have some scar tissue from a former injury in my brachialis which I need to massage on rest days. I have a slight hunchback which I have some stretches to combat. I had been doing forearm stretches but hadn't been getting them quite right. I'm now not going to do more than the briefest stretches after bouldering, but save the stretching for rest days where I'm going to focus soley on these. The rationale was that like training, when done correctly, the stretches break down the muscle slightly and this needs time to re-heal. I guess this is pretty general stuff, but it was reassuring to hear that my small ailments are muscular and if taken care of are unlikely to result lead to injuries.

This week I plan to return to four climbing related sessions a week.
1 gentle boulder warm up + campus board (really easy on the campus as this will be my first session)
1 boulder + 4x4 (The circuit will be taken down in 2 weeks so I'd be keen to drop the rest to 3.00 mins in this session and 2.30 in the next)
1 fingerboard session (previous goals as didn't complete it last time)
1 routes session (fall practice and laps on 6b - will try to return to 6b+ in subsequent sessions)
1x stretching day
1x antagonist and core day (I'm giving up on press ups every day not climbing as it is probably overkill). I'm also going for a different style of core workout than I think a lot of people are doing. It seems more balance orientated and like a strenuous yoga.

In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM, I think I've figured it out, the eccentric reverse wrist curls seems to work and I've been stretching it at every available opportunity (I get some weird looks on the bus sometimes :P )

Monday: Can't really remember what I did to be honest, I think I was trying some new routes, flashed a few 6bs and 6b+s. Got stuck on one 6b+ (couldn't figure out the final move, will probably give it another go this week).
Tuesday: No climbing, did a bit of leading coaching though which was fun, it's awesome when you see such massive improvements in just a two hour session.
Wednesday: My friend had set some new routes so we spent most of the session playing around on them, we reckon one of them is a 7a/+, I didn't clean it but I reckon it'll go sometime soon.
Thursday: Went to the gym with my housemate focussing pretty exclusively on chest and shoulders (I figured they dont tend to get too much exercise these days). It was a fun session but I'm still aching :P
Friday: Achefest. Couldn't climb anything overhanging so I just played around on vertical/slabby stuff, nothing harder than 6b+
Saturday: Leading competition at Redpoint. Despite going to tonnes of bouldering competitions, I'd never been to a leading competition before. It was quite an interesting event, there were 3 routes: a 6c, 7a+ and a 7c+. First up I jumped on the 6c and managed to slip off about 4 metres from the start which was annoying but pretty hilarious. The 7a+ I made it to the crux (I think I only saw 2 or 3 people make it any further) and then on the 7c+ I managed to get the furthest (joint with 2 others) out of anyone so I was very pleased with that considering a couple of my friends who climb 7c/8a didn't get as far.
Sunday: I have to do work today so no climbing, will probs have a stretching/core/pressup session later.

In reply to AJM: thanks andy.

M-S "rest". 90 heel drops every day for left achilles.

bugger all this week. shins don't hurt any more though! have deferred marathon place till may 2012.

In reply to Steve John B:

Cast could be up to 16 weeks...bad bone to break...hoping 6-8 weeks..

m: rest day
t: hill reps, 8 miles, 500m ascent
w: lunch: 4,5 mile, 500m ascent trail run. pm: 4 mile road run
t: lunch: 6 x 1k reps. pm: 7 miles, 400m ascent, trail run.
f: 15 mile 800m ascent trail run from Sychnant Pass tour du Tal y Fan
s: Foel Goch fell run, 6 miles 500m ascent
s: Fell run, Paddy Buckley Reccie, 10 miles, 1500m ascent.

In reply to AJM:

M- Indoor Bouldering (At home)
T- Weights training
W- Indoor bouldering (At Wall)
Th- Rest
F- Indoor bouldering (At Wall)
S- Rest
Su- Indoor Routes (At Wall)

STG-
Get outside more.
V8 outdoor. (currently V7)
7b+ indoors. (currently 7b+) Done.
Finish building woodie Done.
Lead E4 (currently E3)
Manage all the V8+ at the wall (2/4)

In reply to AJM:


Definitely!

Tues: Despite a good warm up, strained a middle finger tendon trying a crimpy F6b slab route, and have had to rein back to let it have some recovery space!

However the upside is that I'm now an expert on finger taping techniques!

Thurs: Easy stamina on large holds!

Sun: Easy top ropes and leads, avoided crimpy stuff.

Next week: The aim is to try to maintain the progress I've achieved, whilst choosing routes and grades with care to allow the tendon strain to continue to recover.

Another OK week, booked a winter climbing trip in a few weekends which gives something to aim at. Also noticed some improvements made over the last few months while bouldering on Sunday.

M:
T:
W: Ran 4.5 miles
T: Fondry Bouldering
F:
S: Ran 6.5 miles in the slushy snow, cold feet!
S: Leeds Wall - bouldering for a change, good session

STG: Regular Wall sessions + Inrease length of runs
MTG: Enter fell race / 10 k + CIC hut winter climbing trip
LTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + would like a PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy, the grading was super-soft so not going to count the 7b+, I'd give it 7a to be honest!

STG (april 2011): 7b at malham (personal services, seventh aardvark)
MTG: (december 2011): 7b+ outdoors

Tues: indoor bouldering, first time bouldering for a few weeks so wasn't expecting much but got a V6 and fell off the final moves of 3 other V6s.
Wed: planned on doing route laps but partner was delayed so ended up bouldering again then a few laps when he turned up.
Sat: route laps indoors, went pretty well until I thought for the last set of laps I should try a 6c, didn't even do one ascent.

better week this week, although the finger is still not right so think I should keep away from bouldering next week. Getting a bit bored of all the lapping easy routes thing but will stick at it because I need the stamina. i think the ideal way to spend my three indoor sessions will be 1 x hard bouldering, 1 x roped laps around 6b+ and 1 x 4 by 4 boulder problems.

In reply to AJM:

Pretty stressful much of the time TBH, but all good now because I came home as a qualified Winter ML and still love the place!

M: WML Coire an t-Sneachda boots, crampons, self-arrest etc.
T: WML Two Fiacaills, security on steep ground, ropework, safe travel etc.
W: WML exped to snow hole NE of 1082 by Cairn Gorm N ridge
T: WML exped clockwise round Loch Avon via 'all the zeros', Coire Domhain and Coire Raibeirt
F: WML exped home by Coire Raibeirt, Coire Domhain, (close to) 1176 and 1141
S: Run Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: Run Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft

So good to get running again yesterday that I felt myself smiling and muttering 'I'm going running' as I got ready. Should now be adding September's Ben Nevis Race to my goals because I seem to have a place this year, but think that can wait for a bit while I try to tick off some of the others (thinking Rigby Round attempt might yet prove a run too far if I'm serious about a Ben PB, but we'll see)!

Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)

Mon - nothing
Tue - 5 miles steady on the road
Wed - 9 mile loop around the Carneddau from Gerlan, snowy on the tops
Thu - 4 miles easy road run
Fri - 7 miles on trails around Alwen resevoir
Sat - nothing
Sun - 10 mile run up and down Glyder Fach from Capel Curig

In reply to AJM:

First week was a bit of a mileage week.

This week has been a little bit more intense. Got on some harder routes.

Flashed a 7c today! So psyched. Going to spend the remaining 7days at the makinodromo on 8a's. More 7c's and 8a's to come. The weather is meant to be awesome this week. PSYCHED.

In reply to AJM: Goals as before.
Mon - rest.
Tues - The Hangar. Really good session, ticked most of the new yellow (V5-7) circuit.
Wed - woke up with stiff and 'crunchy' right shoulder - the old rotator cuff injury has flared up. Take the rest of the week off, no finger boarding or climbing. Will rest for 10 - 14 days and see how it goes.

Andy F

In reply to AJM:

cheers andy,

another three session week, in and amongst an ill baby was awake most of the week at 4am, still good training, so positive about that.

Tues: depot, mileage and some tricky top-end stuff, 2.5 hours.
Thurs: top-end strength session, wilted very soon - effect of sun, tues, but kept going ok
Sun: routes at Leeds, some very good routesetting seems to have happened. World's worst graded '6a' closer to 6c!, but a very good set of routes on some of the walls. about 3 hours, capped by a close fail on a 6c+ on the last but one route.

encouraging despite thurs slump, should get a three session week this week as well, so fingers crossed.

In reply to AJM: Thanks!

M: Sports massage - sore shoulder.
T: Nowt
W: Bouldering at Westway. Flashed a V3/4, nearly got a V4 first go, flashed a (v soft touch) V4. Then core work.
T: Nothing
F: Bouldering at Westway. Really tired, rubbish session, I was all over the place, repeated a V4 but nothing else of note. Core stuff.
Sat: Stretching for shoulder.
Sun: Routes at Westway. Warm-up then, 5+/6a, 6a+, 6b (1 fall), 6b+ (1 fall), 6c (o/s), 7a+ (dogged, got crux sequence but didn't finish), 6b (1/2, then around 6a to top). Laps: 6b, 6a, 6a, 6a, 6a (approx, maybe a bit easier). Then core stuff. Knackered afterwards.

Funny week. My shoulder has developed some soreness which I think is down to a sudden increase in steep bouldering over the last few weeks. It might also be my desk set-up at work. I've been stretching and icing it and it seems to be okay.

Good session today, it turns out I can't flash even 6b on very overhanging walls but can onsight 6c if it's vertical and fingery. This is good news considering I'm going to the Verdon in a couple of months, as I'm not that fussed about super-steep routes right now.

Will think of some goals to get my fit for my trip this week but feel the need is for lots more stamina, so I can lap 6c's with the odd foray into 7a country. This should translate well to long routes at 6a - 6c in the Gorge.

In reply to IainRUK:

You've done it properly then, hopefully its been treated early and will be more like the latter.


f: 15 mile 800m ascent trail run from Sychnant Pass tour du Tal y Fan

Sounds familiar! Whereabouts did you head? (other than around Tal Y Fan!)


Not too bad a weekend after a dreadful midweek - far too busy at work and home to get much more than half an hour a day, and that was low intensity running at 9.30pm after dinner!

M: Nothing/Rest
T: 4.5mile trail run 130m ascent
W: 4.5mile trail run 130m ascent
T: 4.5mile trail run 120m ascent
F: 4.5mile trail run 150m ascent
S: 9mile fell run Drum/Foel Fras from Bwlch Y Ddeuwaen 780m ascent
S: 6mile trail run Sychnant Pass 350m ascent and 12mile road run Llandudno/Gt Orme 350m ascent

8weeks to London...

In reply to AJM:

AJM, Thanks for doing the stats

STG - 25:15 5k, Consolidate HS (9/10 - 2nds | 6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 25:00 5k, Consolidate VS (4/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 24:45 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs

Weight - 12st 5lbs

M - S - Rest

Just rested for the week and started getting my weight back down a bit after the binge week that was eating for a weeks mountaineering. My heel has nearly recovered and once that's better I'll start back with the running. Also planning on going back to the shoulder rehab as well. Just going to keep up with maintenance to keep my hill fitness up for the next Scotland trip. I've dropped all my indoor climbing goals as I can't see myself bothering with going down the wall anytime soon. It's boring, expensive and I seem to injure easily there.

My partner for the next trip I've got planned has pulled out so if there are any fit clubbers who might be interested in a weekends winter climbing in Scotland around the 24th-27th of March, let me know.

Petestack - well done with the WML

In reply to petestack:

Nice one!

As promised, an update on my Sunday wall session and some new goals. Wall session was very good - the new routes that Steve McClure set for the comp are really very good. Overall I did 6a, 6a+, 6b, then the comp 6a+ and 6b+, the comp 6c (used a feature as a handhold to assist the last move, so only a partial tick), tried the 6c I fell off the last move of again and fell off the last move again, tried the comp 6c+ but didn't finish, and tried to do laps on a 6c but was so knackered I couldn't even do one rep by that point! Feeling achey and sore now, so it must have been good

Indoor/training priorities

• Laps 4x 6c with re-tie rests
  
• If bouldering, actually try AeroCap (Gloucester) or circuits (TCA)
  
• Regular fingerboarding over the year
  
• Bike odometer record - 407km
  

<VSTG> - pre-Easter

• Focus primarily on getting mileage in on days out - either pumpy trad or sport onsights
  
• 3x Fr7s or some good onsights at Chateauvert
  
• Maybe sneak a 7a+/b redpoint in if time/partners/etc allows
  

<STG> - pre-midsummer

• Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
  
• Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7a, 2/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
  
• Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape

<MTG> - 2011

• Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 2/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
  
• Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 1x 6c o/s, 3x 6c flash)
  
• Actually do some DWS this year

<LTG>

• Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
  
• E4 onsight
  
• 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
  
• 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags

<BHAG>

• Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
  
• E5 onsights
  
• 8a/+ redpoint
  
• 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
  
• Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something

In reply to JimmyKay:

Bon effort!

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy,

M: Bouldering at the castle. Acquired nasty cough. Didn't really push it.
T: Rest, recover from cough...
W: Ran 2.7 miles, V2/V3 bouldering session at the castle. Less focussed than last week...
T: Rest
F: Bouldering at the castle. Again, trying V3s, climbing V2s. The odd bit of a V4 here and there too.
S: Rest
S: Ran 3 miles.

Plan for coming week: 5K race on Saturday, so Hard bouldering again Monday and Wednesday, Routes on Thursday. Run on Wednesday, and then the race on Saturday. Power Endurance phase begins on Sunday...

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy - I think that's totally right in my case.

M-F - Working too hard to train at all, although perhaps I should have done something on the fingerboard. Hopefully this week will be easier at work or else I will be using the fingerboard.

Sat - Foundry - Routes. hard at first after a week off, but led 19 routes up to 6b+ for stamina (in blocks of 3, rather than 4), and also did a 7a clean on a rope first go, so not a bad session.
Sun - felt a bit tired, but tried some harder stuff, led the 7a (from yesterday) clean 2nd go and did about 15 other routes on top. elbow tweaking by the end a bit.

Bought the fairhead guide on Saturday for my trip in July. Bit early to be excited, but I can't help it...need something to aim for!

In reply to Thickhead: Wondered if it was your circuit.

North Wales Path (but via stone circles) to the Drum path (so down to Llanfairfechan and back up), then turned off to Bwlch Y Ddeufaen, then down the track to the Pen Fell race route and then followed that track along the wall, via the fords, to Pen Sychnant and then climb back.

Nice runnable circuit.

Break visible on X ray, but small crack about 75% way through the bone..

How's the dog + baby situation? They good together?

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy,
You seem to be knocking the "down" season into shape. Effort.

Brean was busy on sunday (20 or so people) and I hear saturday too. A bit damp in the air, no real sunshine but also no rain. Ticked the 7b+ from last weekend which took more work than I hoped it would so only had a quick bash on another route. Pleased all the same as it matched my best lead last year. Took basicaly a day and a half effort to get clean on lead. I plan on another falling in the near future....

Also got trad gear out on sat, dorset was quite nice though I think portland might have had the lion's share of the sun?

mon
tues Indoors leading - nothing above 7a, though new routes and a reasonable volume. Falling acclimatisation.
wed
thur Bouldering - bouldered rubbish! Then at the end of the session worked a possible worthwhile problem with some conviction.
fri
sat: Trad and sport swanage (hardest E1, f6b) saved some for sunday - took time to dry but the sun in the afternoon was peachy.
sun Sport brean - 7b+ RP called prisoner of concience. Pleased.

A happy week, feeling the love for outdoors, and thinking it is a good start for the rest of the year.

There is starting to be some good progress from some folk on here. Might start to become the new soap following y'all! keep it up.

Thanks, Kev

In reply to AJM:

Thanks Andy.

That really is bad luck about the route stripping.

M - Dumbell complexes, fingerboard, 250 core
T - Board session
W - Dumbell complexes, 250 core
T - Board session
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Boulder + routes

Not a bad week this week. Should have been complexes and core done on Friday but after 3 nights really bad sleep i just couldn't face it.

Board session on Tuesday was good and focused on arms. Thursday was even better and more dynamic and finger focused.

Yesterday saw my new idea of stopping off for a boulder at Carrock fell on the way to Penrith. Nice day out West but grey, damp, cold and bloody windy out East. Still went though ;0)

Had a really good session. V0,V2,V3.V3,V4,V5. All flashed except the last 2. The V4 + 5 were not my kind of problems but i was interested to see if the board sessions had done much. The V4 was a hard sit from crimps to slap for a rounded arete then campus up, heel hook and pull round onto the face. Went 2nd go :0)

The V5 was a 'fridge hugging' prow in the full force of the wind with a slightly dodgy landing. Brilliant ! Got it 3rd go. Lots of slaps up each side of the fridge before a good hard mantle shelf top out right over the nose. Well pleased.

I have a short term target of V6 before end of Feb and if the weather improves i reckon it'll go fine.

Routes was a strange session. Hands were a bit shredded from the Gabbro and we were both still shivering when we got there. I knew i'd have to get on the 7a+ i've been avoiding to finish off the pyramid i need for 7b. I've picked it because it's not my style. Lots of slappy, deadpointing moves above bolts, or at least that's how Johnny climbed it. Got on it and quickly worked out a way to do the moves using technique instead. I had a strange lack of psyche and couldn't get up for actually doing it so called it quits for the night. It will go next time so i am not too grumpy. I'm not going to force things.

This week should be the first peak of intensity in my str training but my wife is having to go away for 3 days with work which could scupper things. Will have to wait and see.

In reply to AJM:
Mon-
Tue-Deadhangs
Wed-
Thu- Wall, blown out by partner so did some traversing, but not enough to really get the benefit. Wasted session
Fri - Deadhangs
Sat - First day out this year!! First ever taste of Swanage with a couple of easyish sport (4+, 5+) at Hedbury quarry then down to explore the trad lines below the quarry. Usuaul epic - no idea where we were, where route was, etc etc. Been so long since I led trad (6 months) that I couldn't remember how I usually racked up, and ended up bumbling up some severe. Weather was great though!
Sun -

In reply to petestack:

Well done on the winter ML and (I keep meaning to ask) what is a Rigby Round?

In reply to Kevster:

Nice one on the 7b+. Feel a bit like I should have tried to get out now, but on the other hand it would have been a long drive to go shunting, and the only partner I could find was for indoors Sunday...

Biscuit - sounds like a good week, nice one on the bouldering.

In reply to AJM:
... 3 hours, hardcore? You ain't seen nothing yet...

M: gym, including rower, core, weights, excercise bike
Tu: swimming 1 hour
W: triathlon club swim session. This week we did what is known as a "postal swim" which is run by the British Long Distance Swimmers Association (or something like that). It is very simple, you swim as far as you can in an hour. I managed 2750m. Most people got over 3000m, the fastest woman swam 3750m and the fastest man over 4000m! I'm happy with what I did - I could possibly have gone a little faster but I don't think I'd have managed 3000.
Th: cycled to work (26km in 1h05 rolling time, which is fine). Came home on the train and went running in the evening - 7km ish in 45 minutes.
F: rest
Sa: another 3 hour cycle - much easier than last weeks'. 66km this time.
Su: am - 55 minute run (actually 2x25 minutes with a 5 minute walk in the middle) 8km or so. Evening - Masters Swim Set, lots of kick drills, ugh.

The niggle/problem that I have had at the back of my knee seems to finally be improving, which I am very happy about. It isn't better yet, and I guess I will be doing the stretching and strength exercises for a while, but it does feel like progress (which is just as well).

Cheers AJM.

STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B

M: Bolton complex x3, core (500), BM: max hangs, pull-ups & eccentric curls.
T: swim (60l), core: 500 moves + planks & eccentric curls (x2)
W: Bolton complex x3, core (500), BM: 3x30 moves foot on, max hangs, pull-ups & eccentric curls (x2).
T: Went to the pub
F: Struggled to make it through the day after the pub last night, had to resort to returning to the pub on friday too.
S: Bouldering at Notts wall
S: Short bouldering session at clifftop, aborted due to sore elbow, 4.5m run, theraband & core (500)

A reasonable week, shame about the weather. My elbow problem seems to have returned slightly, hoping to keep it at bay with theraband and eccentric curls.

In reply to AJM:
Ta, there were no shortage of partners at brean, just a lack of free lines.... Though no one got on bull worker or brean topping all day.

Indoors is still acceptable in february tho.

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy. Not a bad week again training wise, but still yet to score outdoors. Starting to get a few tweaks and niggles, variously in shoulders, elbows, wrists and fingers so am easing back on the strength intesity stuff a little.

STG
February training:4xV6, 1xV7. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 600 problems total vol & 2 laps of 15x V4/5 + 20x V0-3 in a session. 6x fingerboard. Shoulder health - stretching & rotator cuff.
Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
Indoor projects: Arch: black 7c, red v7 done, Castle: blue (v7?) and orange (v6?) on wave.

MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
F8a redpoint in 2011

LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity

Goals for last week:
1x volume bouldering incl CIR tick, 1 leading (bouldering on rope) fail, 2 strength + project bouldering tick, 2x 10 move circuit sessions tick, 2x fingerboard sacked off due to tweaky fingers, 1x campus (touches) tick 3x pull ups 1x fail, 2x weights sessions tick, 3x rotator cuff exercises 2x fail

M: Arch - volume session. 20 warm ups, 9-10 goes each on 2x 10-15 move circuits, CIR at V4. Broken by end. Total 37 problems (19xV0-3, 15xV4, 2xV5, 1xV6)
T: Fingerboard - max hangs. Warmed up (poorly) and sacked it off during 1st set of hangs due to pain in forearm. Not good. Need to warm up slower.
W: Project bouldering. (14xV0-3, 2xV4) trying yellow v7 on panels. Did 2nd hard move but couldn't repeat first hard move. Meant to have a lead but due to forgotten rope, got on the top roping, 13 pitches onsighting - (1x5+, 1x6a, 1x6a+, 1x6b, 1+(1)x6b+, 1+(1)x6c, 3x6c+, 1x7a) - pleased with session, mostly downstairs (so in 10 - 15 move region), surprised at how much more decisively I can move when not worried about clipping. Good to occasionally have an insight into what I should be aiming for when leading. It also turns out my power endurance isn't so terrible, at least not over 10 moves (!) Javorek DB complexes, bicep curls, pull ups and rotator cuff.
T:
F: Reverse wrist curls 2x20. Movement coaching session with Johnny Dawes. Really interesting and insightful session. Lots of work on movement paths and moving between static positions through 'dead spaces' which should be impossible to hold statically. Got me some quite whacky stuff. In general need to go away and work out how to apply it to climbing at my limit, but went back to yellow V7 project on panels and was able to apply some of the movement path stuff to the lower hard move and got it linked. Brilliant. Campus - laddering (1-2-3-...-11, 1-3-5) and touches (11-3-1-3-1). 1-3-5 now feeling easy, which represents a step forward. Javorek DB complexes, bicep curls, pull ups, heavy finger rolls (sacked off due to tweak in elbow)
S: Reverse wrist curls 3x20.
S: Arch. warm up - movement. Mostly trying new problems. (8xV0-3, 7xV4, 3xV5, 1xV6) - new problems onsight (4xV3, 4xV4, 1xV5) and worked (V3, 3xV4, 2xV5, 1xV6)

Goals for this week:
1x volume (incl CIR), 2x strength bouldering and 2x performance bouldering. 3x movement practice. aim for 2x campus, 2x max hangs, 3x pull ups, 2x offset pull ups, 2x db complexes, 2x heavy finger rolls, but listening to injury so prepared to sack all of that off if necessary. 5x rotator cuff stretching, 3x rotator cuff strengthening, 3x rev wrist curls.

In reply to AJM:

thanks AJM

ok week...didn't manage to do huge amount due to work


W: indoor session, finger board
T: indoor session, finger board
s,s: Snowdonia, some bouldering (very wet)

STG: 6a at font
MTG: solid HVS trad
LTG: solid E1 trad

In reply to fimm:

Thanks (to all who've said so)!


Cairngorms equivalent of the Ramsay. Not so much ascent or quite so many Munros (18 in this case), but longer on the ground and probably not done that often...
http://gofar.rwimbush.purplecloud.net/CairngormMunros.html

In reply to AJM:

M-Rest for fitness test
T-Military Fitness test
1.5mile/8:48
51 close press ups/2min
72 sit ups/2min
W-Weighted pull ups and 2 finger pocket session
T-Wide Press ups 3x24
F-Rest for weekend trad
S-Llanberis slate
Amazing! E15b no problem and E36a flash (Goose Creature)
Not used to slate. I found it much easier than grit. Maybe because the smallest holds are still positive. Crimp-tastic.
S-Big HVS 5a in the pass. Good experience at this rock type. Found it a bit of a puzzle to work out. Random bouldering to burn out on.

Cheers,
Dan

In reply to AJM:


My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster

STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg, down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:50 in slow conditions, Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).

MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).

LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.

Always planned to be a bit of a lazy week tapering down to the Nationals on Saturday, I ruined all that tapering on a bit of a whim, but still pretty happy with the outcome. Weight down to 70.8kg.

Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 6 miles with 4.3 miles of hilly tempo, 6:30 pace. With club.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 5.5 miles easy run with club.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Feeling good so I thought I would go and do parkrun as a bit of a warm up for the day. Ran 19:45 on the slow Heaton Park course, made a school boy error and had to stop to ties a shoe lace, which annoyed me slightly. Andi Jones and the Salford lads turned to show how it should be done, with three of them beating the old course record. Ran in the English National XC Championship at Alton Towers in the afternoon. Hardest XC I have ever run, the mud was pure evil, had a decent run beat a few people I have not beaten at XC before.
Sunday - Rest.

This week will be moderately high mileage with a couple of low key races at the weekend.

In reply to petestack:

I haven't yet but will do now.

Well done !

In reply to AJM:

By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.

Goals for the past week were 1 x performance boulder sess, 1 x performance routes sess

M - rest
T - Power: Bouldering @ Castle; Spent all night attempting Pen Yellow V7. All the moves felt easier but I couldn't get it linked consistently, and when I did I blew an easy move. Oh well!
W - rest
T - PE: Routes @ Castle; 4 x RP efforts on 7b. Annoyingly close, and think foot popped on best effort. Still better than last week despite feeling more tired.
F - rest
S - rest
S - Routes @ Brean Down; Spent the day working El Chocco 7c and finally got all the moves done, after getting shut down by the roof last year. I could use some refinements but I'm ready to go for the RP on this now which I'm really psyched for. 3 weeks until I can get back there though.

Another close but no cigar week though I'm happy with how things are going and pleased to feel close to my first 7c.

This week is still a rest and test week according to the plan, but from Thursday I'm off on holiday with the gf for 10 days (probably will not be posting next week), so this week it's just 1 session to get the 7b at the wall before a nice rest and some boarding to finish off this first training block.

In reply to AJM:

Thanks again Andy. The broken bolt wasd on prisonner of concience at Brean. There was an old bolt and new bolt next too each other and what we ahd done was extended the new staple bolt and put a shorter draw in the old hanger bolt (dodgy clip) fell off the next move and the hanger snapped straight across in line with the bottom of the bolt, on inspection the hanger had corroded really badly at the rear and was not visible (lessens learned). I have a healthy respect now for the advantage of staples over eco bolts now especially on sea cliffs! Another positive is that we broke it safely so no one else will hurt them selves.

Any way back to this weeks post!

Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM

Week 7 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.

So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...

and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...

GOALS:
Short: end Feb
V7 done and onsight 7a+, redpoint 7b(in or out), done 7b+

Medium: May
V8, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors

Long term: August
Outdoor 8a

Summary:
LAST WEEK:
REST & TEST week, Goals for the week were indoor 7b+ (greens at Harlow), V7 yellow at ME, 7b+ Prisonner of Concience at Brean. 7a+ onsight flash indoors. All ticked except for 7a+ flash as belayer bailed aaaaarrrrgggghhhh!
Excellent week for me and it is fair to say that this dual factor stuff works for me, may be to disciplined for some but I did not expect after the new year to be at this level by the end of february. In terms of tactics I have also learned this week that going for a 5 minute run before red point attempt seems to pay dividends! also rest longer than I think I need but try to keep warm, lots of layers and keep moving. Also learned that when I think I am going to fall go for one more move as I may shock myself! Need to also trick myself into climbing (getting on before my brain realises etc) and not get over psyched as over arousal seems to be an issue for me (no jokes please).

So now a nice week of rest to allow muscles and tendedns to heal and strengthen, not essential for others but allows me to re-psyche and take stock!

Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehap/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.

This Weeks Goals:
- REST, REST, REST, HEAL, DIET!!!

Weight: 76.4kg (still)

Cheers

Gordon

In reply to Goonie:

Also want to say thanks to my long suffering belay partner Kevster, without him I would not have got it!!!

Cheers mate!

G

In reply to AJM:

STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)

Mon: rest
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at The Arch up to V6, worked another couple of V5/V6's, managed about 6 or 7 V4's
Thu: Bouldered at Castle managed up to V5 (ish - didn't match the final sloper) deliberately stayed away from the V5 that I can do. Found a new V6 on the panels that will be worth projecting along with a new V7. Also I managed about 6 V4's.
Fri: rest
Sat: Inlaws!
Sun: Inlaws!

Thanks AJM

Quiet week as predicted, no running last week - will have to get some in this week.

Making some progress on Castle V5's and into the 6's. Am planning a trip to the peak in a couple of weeks time to get back on old projects - Marks Roof Lefthand, etc...

In reply to petestack:

Thank you.
(Looks like a nice route for a 3? day backpacking trip...)

In reply to Goonie:

Hell of a week. I like the idea of test and rest, especially when it comes together like that.



All good stuff especially the keeping warm for RP attempts. Most of us could learn from this.



From the dumbell complexes and some other posts i have discovered i am very inflexible in my shoulders and upper back. Usual climbers thing but didn't think i had it. I can feel the improvement in just a week.


Well done again.

In reply to Goonie:

Top waddage. Nice one. The sign of things to come?

In reply to biscuit:


+1. You trying the overhead squat? Utterly nails. I feel miles off having the flexibility to do this.

In reply to Goonie:

I agree G, a good belayer is hard to come by! (head swells )

Need to up the volume of mid 7's and aim higher with the projecting.

Weather for sunday might be a go-er, portland?

K

In reply to Kevster:

Your welcome mate, Its good to sometimes hear you are appreciated.
Working this weekend and having the week off anyway, but fpor the following Sunday I will be up for something!

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Thanks Nick

The training structure seems to work for me and the routes suited in terms of current strengths, but still chuffed as back to last years high very early on so can see some significant progress this year. Structure and logging religiously I think is the key to progress. If you put in the work the results come!

In reply to biscuit:

Rest and test is a great idea which I nicked and it seems to make sens as you are peaking for this phase so you can plan your routes trips etc to fall into this. I have teaked it though as I feel that a rest and test of two weeks is too long for me and I would rather use the first week as more of a rest with some easy mileage thrown in and maybe some onsighting if you are a tradder maybe the first week could be used for trad rest and test and allow your power to rest for the second week. Just an idea.

Yeah I am going to get into the complexes next week after some rest this week good to hear that you are seeing progress quickly as I do suffer with shoulder and back problems which prop up from time to time. tried them the other day just testing and i could not get my hands above my head in the squat position WTF..... Were you the same at first?

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy, I fear the grades at my local could be a bit soft so we'll have to see how the season kicks off in the next few weeks.

The good news is I seem to have gotten a bit tubby, I hadn't noticed but I'm carrying around the better part of a stone over last years fighting weight. Should be easy enough to lose by throttling back on the beer and fig roll intake... Noooo

The bad news is my joints are all flaring up, fingers shoulders and toes especially. Time to get serious about stretching and exercising them properly.

This weeks climbing has shown up a couple of things, my stamina (probably actually mean PE) isn't as good as last year and my bouldering is as ever weak. I think for now I'll focus on the stamina, it's kinder on the joints, has paid dividends before and will be greatly aided by losing the spare tyre anyway! The one aspect of the bouldering I can and do plan to work is flexibility, this has gone to totally hell of late but at least it is easily enough recovered.

M:
T: Indoor, Oaklands. Volume, ~20 routes 6a-6c+
W: Run 4.22mi (8:32 pace)
T: Indoor, Oaklands. Slightly aimless session with girlfriend, rotator cuffs playing up
F: Run 4.31mi (8:37 pace)
S: Indoor, Climbing Works. Fair chunk of the 'wasp' circuit and bits of others
S: Indoor, Foundry. Mostly a social session, feeling totally beasted and struggling

Goals: Time to flesh these out and try to use them as a motivational tool.

Coming week:
Volume climbing
>3 Stretching sessions
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions
>7mi Running
Lose 1/2kg (currently 78.8kg)

STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg

MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k

LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon

jk

In reply to IainRUK:


The only bit I don't know so well of that is the path up from Llanfairfechan to the Roman Rd. Have done it fairly recently though. I usually go on the Conwy side, particularly so recently. Might get a bit boring doing the same run all the time but without having to drive I can get a few extra miles in my "time off"! Its all very runnable there at a reasonable pace except the rough at the top of Tal Y Fan.

Molly seems to have taken to him well really, she was naturally v inquisitive at first, as was my brother's colly - wouldn't take his eye's off him! She's quite protective - and certainly hasn't shown any aggression yet.

Hopefully the bone will heal pretty quickly. Any races upcoming? Are you doing Rhayader 20 this yr?

In reply to petestack:

That must be a long round getting 18munroes around there!

Good effort.

I like the Cairngorms, spent quite some time there in my Uni days.

In reply to AJM:
STG (end of march):
Amtrax - el chorro Fail
RP 6b+ - el chorro Fail
onsight a HVS and maybe a E1
MTG end of june:
RP 6c?
Onsight E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a

Last weeks goals:
Amtrak - Fail had planned to do this on the friday but had a rest day instead
RP 6b+ - Failed as I did not try a 6b+

M: rest
T: Football Training - 1hour
W: Travelled to El Chorro. Onsight 1x5+(6a?) RP 1x6a+ after missing a hold on the flash attempt
T: Onsighted 1x4, 1x4+ and 1x6a. finished off a route for chris to collect the gear. TR 1x6c did not finish. Walked all from the olive branch along the front of frontales to sector costrojo (far left). The walked the camino del ray and across the river to las cotos. Ended the day walking throught the train tunnels to el chorro village and finished up at Las encantas. Possibly 8 miles? nice long day out.
F: Walked up to Arabe from the olive branch. (sector suiza)
Warmed up on a long 4 onsight. Then did regilio which we did the first 150m ish in 30 mins. fisinshed the day climbing some 3's as I was knackered.
S: rest
S: Frontales - solerium and austria onsighted 2x5 and 1x5+ I backed off a 6b due to dangerous bolting. Las encatalas - RP 6b dogged a 6a+

This weeks goals:
Sort my house out

I did not do my main projects out there however I did manage to push my grade at least. I managed to bolt to bolt the 6b and should got it on the first rp but failed due to messing up my sequence. Rested got it 2nd RP.
Excellent week of lots of weeking and sunshine.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Sounds like another good week nick.

Incidentally, if you ever read Simon's blog he went to Tarn/Boffi/Cantobre a few days ago - worth a read. He seemed impressed by Cantobre.

In reply to AJM: Cheers

Mon: Worcester Tri Swim, inc. steady 1km and 200m intervals
Tue: 7k run, generally steady but with kick up a long climb. Evening, Turbo Trainer intervals, 8x1min sprints
Wed: 13k steady run with a few hard long pushes.
Thu: 11k run, felt crap and was really broken and slow session.
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Walk/scramble around Yewbarrow/Red Pike area above Wasdale.
Sun: Walk around Seathwaite Tarn

Crap week for running. Legs felt fairly good, but gut/bowel was worse than ever. Mileage was really rather low, though was expecting that to some extent, due to busy weekend.

It was really nice to get out into the mountains, and made me want to get out into them so much more often. Though walking around in thick clag on slightly remote tops seemed to freak H out a little, so may have to wait until later in the year before we can get more time on the high fells.

Next weekend is Great North West Half, and I'm interested to see how I do if my digestive system will play ball. So this week will largely be focussed on that.

In reply to AJM:

M: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
T: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat. PM, 3.5 mile run road mild hill
W: 8 mile road run, pace
T:
F: 5 mile road run, hillyish
S: 16 mile road hilly run (pre-breakfast, in rain, nasty)
S:

All feeling remarkably solid, by my modest standards. Which is nice.

In reply to AJM:
Mon - Arch. 1x V4, green 7b in 4 sections.
Tues - Castle. 23 x2 + 1 blacks - then crashed (about 4 hours sleep the night before).
Wedns - Castle. Easy ARC for an hour or so. Offset pullups, pressups.
Thurs - Rest.
Fri - Castle. 1x V3, 1x blue, working other blues. Started to feel a bit rough towards the end of the session.
Sat - Resting. In bed. With a cold
Sun - Arch. Still ill: a bit stupid really. 1x V4, all moves on a V5 and all but last move of another. Green 7b almost in 2 sections - fell off last hard move. Slowly getting closer.

In reply to Thickhead: Not to Rhayader, Math et al are, I'm off to Norway.

I just followed the North Wales path along the road above Llanfairfechan then it climbs slowly up the hillside and on to the pylons. The whole route is good running.

Kiel marathon this weekend, just hoping for sub 3, with the cast on running is a bit hindered, so planned sub 1:25 first half and then similar for second.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:


Stop press! Blue v7? wave project went down last night. Tried it initially mid November - did all the moves quite quickly initially and got up to linking moves 0 - 7 (of 9) but could never put the link together. Just not strong enough. Mentally shelved the project for a bit to go off and try to get stronger.

Came back to it for first time about a week ago - feeling a little bit more powerful on the moves. Promising. Got it re-wired. Tried it last night and did it 5th? go. Able to feel like I can dig in and hold the sharp twist lock crux now as opposed to slapping and having my hips spin off into space. More telling is the salmon V5 on the same wall (which frustratingly continued to spit me off even though everyone else found it the easiest problem on the board) - holding the foot swing on the crux slap to the lozenge pinch felt easy this time, and after a go or two I could even do it keeping my feet on.

This is the first concrete evidence that I have actually got at all stronger, this training phase, in any way that relates to actual climbing. All of the hard work - this is what it's for! Months of brutalizing circuits and pull ups and dead hangs all culminating in the satisfying 'WHAPP' of your hand slapping the finishing rail.

Super, super psyched. Now I need to do it eliminating the side wall. Bring it...

In reply to fimm:

doesn't it

In reply to AJM:

Cheers Andy.

Bit of an annoying week this week due to me picking up another injury. I think my body is suffering from a winter of bouldering. Just as I was tapering into routes, too. I'll see how I feel next week.

---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------

ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)

---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------

STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (2 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (19 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh

MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates

LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.

---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------

M: Rest
T: Route session at AW Stockport. A bit jittery at the start, having not climbed since last Tuesday seemed to have a slight negative consequence. Still, after a few warm-up TRs I jumped back on lead and after 3 routes I got a personal best - on lead! Well chuffed! Ended the night with a steady boulder and pinged a finger / tendon -- ouch! So gutted as I've always stayed well away from campus boards etc., for this very reason. It's really painful today (Wednesday) so I'm going to have to take it really easily, or even have some time off from climbing until it heals as I don't want this to be a long-term injury. I'll see how it feels tomorrow.
W-S: Resting finger / arm tendon -- still painful but feels like arm rather than finger.

Weight: 142.2 lbs (+1.2 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.5%
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)

---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------

BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.

TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:

Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Nice one Nick. Love it when a plan comes together :0)

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

Effort nick.

When you get back out on real rock, I'm going to watch (jealously) as the plateau crumbles and the projects start falling

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

I'm expecting some big performances from you periodisation beasts when the fit-club trip to yorkshire limestone happens.

Psyched! (as the kids would say)

In reply to biscuit, AJM & Eagle River:

Thanks chaps. Small achievement in the scale of things but it means a lot to me.


Hahaha! You'll also get the pleasure of us getting utterly, utterly spanked by polished footholds and undercuts and trick beta as the wheels totally come off the wagon. I'll give you a shout when we are up and you can come and giggle...

In reply to plexiglass_nick:

As long as biscuit remembers to keep his leg behind his rope and not the other way around we should be OK....

In reply to AJM:
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)

Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.3% fat.
Focus:

Mon: Routes at Awesome
Tue: Core (166).
Wed: Nowt.
Thu: Rehab exercises.
Fri: Core (250).
Sat: Nowt.
Sun: Nowt.

The lazy streak continues....

In reply to Eagle River:

Oh very funny !

Believe me i won't be forgetting that again in a hurry :0)

In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
Better than last week despite only 3 sessions. Wall session went well, onsighted 6b+ (maybe a bit soft for the grade?) and just felt stronger on other routes I have been working. Home stuff going ok to. Worked Friday night, nearly got snowed in Sat morning in Buxton! Was a wake up to how tough March is going to be for old duffer like me…and how hard it will be to try hold on to my liver!
Going to try and get back to 4 sessions this week.

STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘s

Thanks once again for your efforts.

Pretty shoddy week running wise but still did loads of activity. I've begun to get a bit obsessed with getting the mileage in and I need to start thinking that if I can't do 4 sessions I might as well do 2 or 3 good ones and be happy. Having said that, 10 miles for a week isn't good enough.

Goal for last week
Going to Brecon for the weekend so the long run might suffer. Aiming for 20+ miles, 4 sessions and some cross training.
Status: Failed
Not achieved. In the end I went climbing twice as well as spin so didn't have time for more than 2 runs. Exercised on 6 days though!

M: rest
T: spin - 45 mins, hard.
W: Easy run, 4 miles
T: 1 hour indoor climbing. Haven't been for ages, wrecked.
F: tempo - 10k in 43:50, not as fast as last week but it felt really comfortable. HR under 150.
S: 10 mile walk in Brecon. Pen y Fan to Fan y Big
S: 2 hours indoor climbing, including good instructing session for SPA logbook.

Goals for next week
I'm going to Scotland for a week on Saturday so hopefully I'll get about 20 miles in. Really want 100 miles for Feb (currently at 80) As said before though, if something else is there to be done, I'll do it.

Goal for end of February
100 + miles in February. 10k in sub 43 mins (done). Have a full race plan for the year. See above.

Three month goal, end April
25miles + at the weekends and at least 3 40+ mile weeks. Sub 41 min 10k. Finished two long races at least half marathon.

Six month goal, end july
At least one 40 mile weekend and 2-3 50+ mile weeks. Sub 40 min 10k. Finish two more races including at least marathon

12 month goal, 2011
Run ultra, sub 3:10 marathon, at least one really long distance challenge.

In reply to AJM: Cheers dude. Another pretty good week.

M: 10m with 6 at 6:40 pace
T: 5m recovery
W: 13m round several london parks several times
T: (apart from c6m of Boris Biking
F: 20m with 4m at the end at 6:45 pace
S: rest
S: went to watch the UCI cycling - watching the men's team pursuit was darn hard work!

Another nearly 50m week - more relaxed week this week before stepping up again for a couple of weeks.