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Seeing as I have already watched people climb it, the onsight is already blown so may as well get some useful beta!
It will be my first Grit HVS.
Any advice on gear it takes/anything to watch out for?
Cheers
G
PS Fairly competent at jamming and I will also accept "Man up and get on it" as a valid response to this post.
It will be my first Grit HVS.
Any advice on gear it takes/anything to watch out for?
Cheers
G
PS Fairly competent at jamming and I will also accept "Man up and get on it" as a valid response to this post.
In reply to gcandlin:
"the onsight is already blown so may as well get some useful beta!
It will be my first Grit HVS."
I think you mean it will be your first climb given HVS
I'd seriously consider doing a lot of other HVS climbs first. Unless you are good at climbing VS jamming cracks you will end up dogging it which firstly you will come to regret and secondly will add to the polish on the rock and cam wear on the crack.
"the onsight is already blown so may as well get some useful beta!
It will be my first Grit HVS."
I think you mean it will be your first climb given HVS
I'd seriously consider doing a lot of other HVS climbs first. Unless you are good at climbing VS jamming cracks you will end up dogging it which firstly you will come to regret and secondly will add to the polish on the rock and cam wear on the crack.
1
In reply to gcandlin:
It`s not really what I would call a Grit HVS if that does not sound too stupid as it`s an HVS on Grit, but when I go to the Grit from Lancashire Quarries, it`s not for routes like Bond Street.
Do you have fat fingers, if so the move out of the resting niche is hard, I took about 6 falls trying it, but it is safe so no worries there
It`s not really what I would call a Grit HVS if that does not sound too stupid as it`s an HVS on Grit, but when I go to the Grit from Lancashire Quarries, it`s not for routes like Bond Street.
Do you have fat fingers, if so the move out of the resting niche is hard, I took about 6 falls trying it, but it is safe so no worries there
In reply to Offwidth: my jamming is pretty good, I have been getting millage in on VS hand cracks and had 2 weeks in Yosemite back in September.
I don't plan to dog the crap out of it. If it won't go it won't go and ill come back when I'm better.
Cheers
G
I don't plan to dog the crap out of it. If it won't go it won't go and ill come back when I'm better.
Cheers
G
In reply to gcandlin:
Low in the grade, very well protected, a couple of 5a moves (thin-hands or finger locks), excellent rest in the niche between the cruxes.
Good choice for a 1st HVS.
Chris
Low in the grade, very well protected, a couple of 5a moves (thin-hands or finger locks), excellent rest in the niche between the cruxes.
Good choice for a 1st HVS.
Chris
In reply to gcandlin: Not an easy HVS unless love crack. Moving into the niche is the crux.
In reply to gcandlin:
The gear is bomber if placed well. Stuff it full at the nitch and blast through the hard moves not pausing to think of even failing. Good steep route, enjoy it.
The gear is bomber if placed well. Stuff it full at the nitch and blast through the hard moves not pausing to think of even failing. Good steep route, enjoy it.
In reply to gcandlin:
If it's not too cold, go for it. As safe as it gets. A great route. Good luck!
Mick
If it's not too cold, go for it. As safe as it gets. A great route. Good luck!
Mick
In reply to Offwidth:
OP says "first grit HVS". Could have done E8 on limestone for all I know
> (In reply to gcandlin)
>
> Then you should have led an HVS ages ago
>
> On that what 5.7/ 5.8 routes did you do in Yosemite (Its hard to climb those grades there without ticking an HVS)
>
> Then you should have led an HVS ages ago
>
> On that what 5.7/ 5.8 routes did you do in Yosemite (Its hard to climb those grades there without ticking an HVS)
OP says "first grit HVS". Could have done E8 on limestone for all I know
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Mid grade (according to BMC and Rockfax lists); OK rests; not an ideal route to break into the grade as its a major classic and very cruxy. Opinions, what do you do with them eh?
Mid grade (according to BMC and Rockfax lists); OK rests; not an ideal route to break into the grade as its a major classic and very cruxy. Opinions, what do you do with them eh?
In reply to gcandlin:
Just looked through your profiles and found Svelt at Millstone. I think this is VS but the guides say HVS.
Just looked through your profiles and found Svelt at Millstone. I think this is VS but the guides say HVS.
In reply to gcandlin:
Easy for the grade. My first HVS too.
Get on it.
Can't believe people are steering you away from it.
E
Easy for the grade. My first HVS too.
Get on it.
Can't believe people are steering you away from it.
E
In reply to Offwidth:
I agree it's not low in the grade - I failed on it a couple of years ago. Or more precicesly I rested just before the niche cos I just got bored of the pain in my feet - I really don't like sustained cracks.
Wasn't exactly going badly at the time - had just done a couple of E2s in Pembroke but it was a bit cold and damp. I'd say Great North Road and Lyons Corner House are much better routes at the grade and the latter wouldn't be a bad first HVS
I agree it's not low in the grade - I failed on it a couple of years ago. Or more precicesly I rested just before the niche cos I just got bored of the pain in my feet - I really don't like sustained cracks.
Wasn't exactly going badly at the time - had just done a couple of E2s in Pembroke but it was a bit cold and damp. I'd say Great North Road and Lyons Corner House are much better routes at the grade and the latter wouldn't be a bad first HVS
In reply to Offwidth: Yeah, I thought it was tough Vs to, that's Why I still don't consider myself to have doen a HVS on Grit.
Thanks everyone for takign the time to reply
Thanks everyone for takign the time to reply
In reply to gcandlin:
Take the tick as an easy HVS. It's not likely to be downgraded soon.
Could only find Cathedral Peak on your logbook...what were those other Yosemite climbs?
Take the tick as an easy HVS. It's not likely to be downgraded soon.
Could only find Cathedral Peak on your logbook...what were those other Yosemite climbs?
In reply to gcandlin:
You've done this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35573
You'll be fine. Bond St. is a good choice for first HVS for the competent crack-climber.
MUAGOI.
You've done this: http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=35573
You'll be fine. Bond St. is a good choice for first HVS for the competent crack-climber.
MUAGOI.
In reply to flaneur: Indeed but that was limestone
In reply to Enty:
Partly as I work on guidebooks and watch my local classics the number of people dogging such routes depresses me. There are worse examples where people resting on cams have gouged out slots in the rock but this route is showing signs of its traffic, especially polish from a combination of insufficient jamming skills with poor footwork. I like people to think about the way they climb, minimising the effect they have on the rock, so these climbs stay brilliant for future generations. As such I will sometimes question peoples' readiness for an attempt on such routes on this forum. As a result of my request the OP says he thinks he is OK and that's fair enough. Irrespective of this he could just ignore me, free country and all that.
Partly as I work on guidebooks and watch my local classics the number of people dogging such routes depresses me. There are worse examples where people resting on cams have gouged out slots in the rock but this route is showing signs of its traffic, especially polish from a combination of insufficient jamming skills with poor footwork. I like people to think about the way they climb, minimising the effect they have on the rock, so these climbs stay brilliant for future generations. As such I will sometimes question peoples' readiness for an attempt on such routes on this forum. As a result of my request the OP says he thinks he is OK and that's fair enough. Irrespective of this he could just ignore me, free country and all that.
In reply to Offwidth: We spent 2 weeks doing Tahoe, Tuolumne and The Valley, unfortunately I didnt pay much attention the the route names, they were all in the 5.7 range though and felt like hard VS. TR'd a couple of 5.9/5.10 finger cracks and they felt nails!!
In reply to Offwidth:
When I did Svelt, many many years ago, I thought it was much harder than VS, whereas Bond St was just a standard VS at the time.
> (In reply to gcandlin)
>
> Just looked through your profiles and found Svelt at Millstone. I think this is VS but the guides say HVS.
>
> Just looked through your profiles and found Svelt at Millstone. I think this is VS but the guides say HVS.
When I did Svelt, many many years ago, I thought it was much harder than VS, whereas Bond St was just a standard VS at the time.
In reply to Offwidth: If I fall or rest on the rope then I will be retreating and coming back another day with more skill in the bank. I take no pleasure dogging trad routes, especially classics like this.
For me if its not clean it wont mean much
For me if its not clean it wont mean much
In reply to Chris the Tall:
Better than Top 50 - Shirley not? LCH is a good suggestions though.
Chris
> . I'd say Great North Road and Lyons Corner House are much better routes at the grade and the latter wouldn't be a bad first HVS
Better than Top 50 - Shirley not? LCH is a good suggestions though.
Chris
In reply to Al Evans:
Some climbers are odd though. Steep jamming and finger locking vs a bomber protected slab corner crack... no contest
Some climbers are odd though. Steep jamming and finger locking vs a bomber protected slab corner crack... no contest
In reply to Chris Craggs:
Eh ? GNR is in the top 50 (and rightly so) but the other two aren't (equally right) and yes I'd say that LCH (both versions) is better than BS
Eh ? GNR is in the top 50 (and rightly so) but the other two aren't (equally right) and yes I'd say that LCH (both versions) is better than BS
In reply to Chris Craggs:
LCH left start is a bit creaky (if not broken yet) the right start is better IMHO anyway, adds to the intimidatory feel.
LCH left start is a bit creaky (if not broken yet) the right start is better IMHO anyway, adds to the intimidatory feel.
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I'm with you that Bond St is straightforward for the grade.
I can think of several VS cracks that are harder.
Suspect a lot of the folk who struggle these days have a wall & sport background which isn't ideal for jamming cracks.
GNR is harder & the best way to do LCH is with the direct start which is quite bold.
I'm with you that Bond St is straightforward for the grade.
I can think of several VS cracks that are harder.
Suspect a lot of the folk who struggle these days have a wall & sport background which isn't ideal for jamming cracks.
GNR is harder & the best way to do LCH is with the direct start which is quite bold.
In reply to Hat Dude:
Thank you for that, a voice of reason - two of us against the World!
Chris
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
>
> I'm with you that Bond St is straightforward for the grade.
> I can think of several VS cracks that are harder.
> Suspect a lot of the folk who struggle these days have a wall & sport background which isn't ideal for jamming cracks.
>
> GNR is harder & the best way to do LCH is with the direct start which is quite bold.
>
> I'm with you that Bond St is straightforward for the grade.
> I can think of several VS cracks that are harder.
> Suspect a lot of the folk who struggle these days have a wall & sport background which isn't ideal for jamming cracks.
>
> GNR is harder & the best way to do LCH is with the direct start which is quite bold.
Thank you for that, a voice of reason - two of us against the World!
Chris
In reply to Chris Craggs: I would not want to place money on this but I seem to think that Bond Street was VS at one time in the sixties/seventies but then again wasn't everything back then.
Al
Al
In reply to gcandlin:
I don't normally bother with Bond Street as the return on investment isn't as good as for a lot of other properties, the greens are normally the last to get snapped up in family games.
Most of the people I know who've done the route thought it was ok for the grade, get on it if you've got the jamming experience
I don't normally bother with Bond Street as the return on investment isn't as good as for a lot of other properties, the greens are normally the last to get snapped up in family games.
Most of the people I know who've done the route thought it was ok for the grade, get on it if you've got the jamming experience
In reply to gcandlin: I think Bond Street is one of those routes that is probably easier in big boots. That's how I did it the first time as training for the Fissure Brown on the Blaitiere.
Al
Al
In reply to Chris the Tall:
Get with the programme - that's the OLD Top 50 - I guess (haven't a clue really!)
Chris
Get with the programme - that's the OLD Top 50 - I guess (haven't a clue really!)
Chris
In reply to Chris the Tall:
I think anyone who thinks Bond Street is even remotely difficult HVS 5a jamming ought to do (or redo) Tower Crack, Terraza Crack or Nowanda by way of calibration.
I think anyone who thinks Bond Street is even remotely difficult HVS 5a jamming ought to do (or redo) Tower Crack, Terraza Crack or Nowanda by way of calibration.
In reply to gcandlin: My first HVS, great route. Apparently the crux is a bit harder if you've got large hands. Gear: mostly cams, you'll know the sizes you need from the ground
In reply to Offwidth:
Bomber protected?, perhaps thats the key
> (In reply to Al Evans)
>
> Some climbers are odd though. Steep jamming and finger locking vs a bomber protected slab corner crack... no contest
>
> Some climbers are odd though. Steep jamming and finger locking vs a bomber protected slab corner crack... no contest
Bomber protected?, perhaps thats the key
In reply to gcandlin: Buy yourself a roll of tape for a few quid and make tape gloves, they're great for the grit, best thing I ever learnt in the States. You'll get mugged on here but not at the crag for doing so!
In reply to GrahamD:
I've tried (and failed) to second Nowanda, so I'll add the other two to my Not-to-do list !
> (In reply to Chris the Tall)
>
> I think anyone who thinks Bond Street is even remotely difficult HVS 5a jamming ought to do (or redo) Tower Crack, Terraza Crack or Nowanda by way of calibration.
>
> I think anyone who thinks Bond Street is even remotely difficult HVS 5a jamming ought to do (or redo) Tower Crack, Terraza Crack or Nowanda by way of calibration.
I've tried (and failed) to second Nowanda, so I'll add the other two to my Not-to-do list !
In reply to gcandlin:
How about Great Portland Street?
I seconded Bond Street and thought the bottom crack before the bulge was pretty painful for ones feet and the middle bit hard too! Jamming practice needed!
Lyon's corner house direct is really good, bold start though above a pretty poor landing.
James
How about Great Portland Street?
I seconded Bond Street and thought the bottom crack before the bulge was pretty painful for ones feet and the middle bit hard too! Jamming practice needed!
Lyon's corner house direct is really good, bold start though above a pretty poor landing.
James
In reply to Chris the Tall:
Tower Crack is a beastie! I've done it twice now, and each time I've felt thouroughly beaten up. Great climb though. Terraza crack is too short to be overly brutal, but is still excellent. Speed is essential! My hands were to big for comfortable jamming on Nowanda, so it was a bit of a wide eyed fight. Still very worthwhile route.
Tower Crack is a beastie! I've done it twice now, and each time I've felt thouroughly beaten up. Great climb though. Terraza crack is too short to be overly brutal, but is still excellent. Speed is essential! My hands were to big for comfortable jamming on Nowanda, so it was a bit of a wide eyed fight. Still very worthwhile route.
In reply to Gripped: Yeah I used a tape glove in the states and it was really helpful. However I would feel a bit of a tool using one in the UK, everyone knows tape gloves are cheating
In reply to gcandlin:
Especially on a route which is all about finger locks.
E
> However I would feel a bit of a tool using one in the UK
Especially on a route which is all about finger locks.
E
In reply to gcandlin:
It's nice, steady and safe. A good grit HVS to pick as your first, if - as you say - you're a fairly competent jammer. One or two pokey moves around the niche, but it's over quickly. Man up and get on it, I say.
It's nice, steady and safe. A good grit HVS to pick as your first, if - as you say - you're a fairly competent jammer. One or two pokey moves around the niche, but it's over quickly. Man up and get on it, I say.
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