This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (206) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=448427&v=1#x6286396
Repeat posters - 39
AJM – hope the trip goes as planned
TonyB – how did the comp go ?
Miles – solid week
Steve John B
IainRUK – as mentioned in last weeks post, respect to you for that result in those conditions.
Neils
Charlie_Zero – rest week it is then
Sankey
Eagle River – did you get anything done in the nice weather ?
petestack – steady and consistent as ever
JimmyKay – 7c flash but no 8a RP ??? It will come soon and sounds like you have such a good attitude towards it. Keep at it.
andy farnell – Sleep is so important. Hope this week has gone better.
richardh – watch the recovery. Quality sleep is essential.
seankenny - 18th birthday party. Those were the days. Rather you than me though ;0)
Thickhead – 60 mile week is good mileage
mattrm - rest week again. 2 is just lazy ;0)
agibb – CAREFUL. I've just done my pulley properly. May be too late now but take a look at Dave Mac's on line coaching blog under injuries for excellent advice.
Shauna – make quality rest your main goal. I have come a cropper because I didn't.
Kevster – people certainly follow similar patterns and it is noticeable on here. It's what separates us mere mortals from the nutters who never lose psyche and climb 9b.
biscuit
Stone_Donkey – try a bit of structure to your session. Have a look at the links above for some ideas or ask on here.
fimm – big week indeed. I'd be beaten up for a week after that.
chris05 – surfing
plexiglass_nick – if only i'd been sensible like you. Listening to your body and not getting carried away is a lesson I need to learn.
phja – new shoes and aiming to get outside. It must be the start of the outdoor season :0)
Daniel Heath – you've spotted an issue and are thinking about your style. That's great, many people don't. Don't swing wildly from one to the other though. You're after controlled movement so think about when to use differing styles rather than just using one.
The New Nick B – mid life crisis ? ;0) I am 35 today and would also like to be as fit as I was when I was 20. It looks like you're actually doing it though. Good luck.
Goonie – you have such a disciplined approach I need to take some inspiration from it. Hope you rested well and are set to crush again.
viking – did you get out in the nice weather and crush the V6 ?
jkarran – glad you on the mend
grubes – steady rest week. Ramp it up now !
Liam M – don't lose sight of the fact that off road is sooo much better than road running. I never enjoyed road running as much. I think it's like climbing at the wall compared to big mountain trad. I did the blackpool 10k and HM years ago. Similar experience. It's flat and gets good times in good weather, but it is in Blackpool and can get a bit windy at times ;0)
Mark Torrance – another steady week. What aims have you got ?
Curious Yellow -how do you find the ab wheel ? I am thinking of investing in one since falling off on steep boulders this week
Steve Perry (Pezz) – listening to your body is wise
leon – keep it up. We can re hab together. I might be out for a couple of months. Keep positive and concentrate on what you can do. Not what you can't do.
Murd – every trip out is moves in the bank. Never mind the time and intensity it's all good stuff.
Eric the Red - Scotland
andy – excellent dedication to get the miles in.
Absentees – 3
ayuplass - still in Scotland?
Jeriqo
catt
New posters - 2
Jamesgreenfield – nice one on the 7a indoor stg
MikeNolan – I think you may have highlighted an imbalance in your climbing. 7A slab sounds horrendous but struggling on 6A steep is not good. Get to it, you have huge gains to make there :0)
I am out of practice so i hope i've not dropped any clangers.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (206) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=448427&v=1#x6286396
Repeat posters - 39
AJM – hope the trip goes as planned
TonyB – how did the comp go ?
Miles – solid week
Steve John B
IainRUK – as mentioned in last weeks post, respect to you for that result in those conditions.
Neils
Charlie_Zero – rest week it is then
Sankey
Eagle River – did you get anything done in the nice weather ?
petestack – steady and consistent as ever
JimmyKay – 7c flash but no 8a RP ??? It will come soon and sounds like you have such a good attitude towards it. Keep at it.
andy farnell – Sleep is so important. Hope this week has gone better.
richardh – watch the recovery. Quality sleep is essential.
seankenny - 18th birthday party. Those were the days. Rather you than me though ;0)
Thickhead – 60 mile week is good mileage
mattrm - rest week again. 2 is just lazy ;0)
agibb – CAREFUL. I've just done my pulley properly. May be too late now but take a look at Dave Mac's on line coaching blog under injuries for excellent advice.
Shauna – make quality rest your main goal. I have come a cropper because I didn't.
Kevster – people certainly follow similar patterns and it is noticeable on here. It's what separates us mere mortals from the nutters who never lose psyche and climb 9b.
biscuit
Stone_Donkey – try a bit of structure to your session. Have a look at the links above for some ideas or ask on here.
fimm – big week indeed. I'd be beaten up for a week after that.
chris05 – surfing
plexiglass_nick – if only i'd been sensible like you. Listening to your body and not getting carried away is a lesson I need to learn.
phja – new shoes and aiming to get outside. It must be the start of the outdoor season :0)
Daniel Heath – you've spotted an issue and are thinking about your style. That's great, many people don't. Don't swing wildly from one to the other though. You're after controlled movement so think about when to use differing styles rather than just using one.
The New Nick B – mid life crisis ? ;0) I am 35 today and would also like to be as fit as I was when I was 20. It looks like you're actually doing it though. Good luck.
Goonie – you have such a disciplined approach I need to take some inspiration from it. Hope you rested well and are set to crush again.
viking – did you get out in the nice weather and crush the V6 ?
jkarran – glad you on the mend
grubes – steady rest week. Ramp it up now !
Liam M – don't lose sight of the fact that off road is sooo much better than road running. I never enjoyed road running as much. I think it's like climbing at the wall compared to big mountain trad. I did the blackpool 10k and HM years ago. Similar experience. It's flat and gets good times in good weather, but it is in Blackpool and can get a bit windy at times ;0)
Mark Torrance – another steady week. What aims have you got ?
Curious Yellow -how do you find the ab wheel ? I am thinking of investing in one since falling off on steep boulders this week
Steve Perry (Pezz) – listening to your body is wise
leon – keep it up. We can re hab together. I might be out for a couple of months. Keep positive and concentrate on what you can do. Not what you can't do.
Murd – every trip out is moves in the bank. Never mind the time and intensity it's all good stuff.
Eric the Red - Scotland
andy – excellent dedication to get the miles in.
Absentees – 3
ayuplass - still in Scotland?
Jeriqo
catt
New posters - 2
Jamesgreenfield – nice one on the 7a indoor stg
MikeNolan – I think you may have highlighted an imbalance in your climbing. 7A slab sounds horrendous but struggling on 6A steep is not good. Get to it, you have huge gains to make there :0)
I am out of practice so i hope i've not dropped any clangers.
In reply to biscuit:
M - Rest - super knackered.
T - Board session
W - Boulder at Carrock fell
T - Board session
F - Rest
S - Boulder atBowderstone
S - Easy stuff at St Bees later
After a rest week i have learnt that proper rest includes proper sleep. I literally haven't slept properly for over a month, for various reasons, averaging 6 broken hours a night. I normally need 8 even if i'm not training. End result has been a torn A2 pulley in my right hand middle finger at the Bowderstone. I've had tweaks before but this one went crunch/pop. Following Dave Mac's advice but could be 8 weeks before i am back up to full speed again. It's his site that says poor recovery/sleep is one of the biggest causes as the micro tears in the pulleys don't get chance to fix themselves.
Was very miserable yesterday and fell into the depths of despair and consumed a consolation curry and bottle of wine.
Taking the positives out of it. I can sort my elbows out, work the slopers on the BM, dumbell complexes, do lots of shoulder and hip flexibility and core work. Also going to run and lose some of the lard i've put back on over the last few weeks.
Feeling much more positive today and i've now got the chance to do all the little bits i haven't been able to get round to so i'll be a more balanced climber when i get back to it.
Things were going well. Not got my V6 done but the one i worked was not my style at Carrock. I later fell off the last move of a V6 second go but only had 10 mins on it before i had to go. It'll definitely go next time.
Bowderstone was going really well for me. A warm up and quick repeat of Crack Direct(6C+) saw me onto picnic sarcastic (7A+) my target for end of March. Last year i could do 2 moves. This year the first 3 moves felt routine and i was just working out how to make the 4th when my pulley went. Bit strange really. Not an out of control move, fairly open handed hold and i hit it well. More a chronic problem of under recovery than an acute occurence i think. Lesson learnt.
Still going out later today as it's my 35th birthday so i'll go if i want to. Probably just belay and chill.
M - Rest - super knackered.
T - Board session
W - Boulder at Carrock fell
T - Board session
F - Rest
S - Boulder atBowderstone
S - Easy stuff at St Bees later
After a rest week i have learnt that proper rest includes proper sleep. I literally haven't slept properly for over a month, for various reasons, averaging 6 broken hours a night. I normally need 8 even if i'm not training. End result has been a torn A2 pulley in my right hand middle finger at the Bowderstone. I've had tweaks before but this one went crunch/pop. Following Dave Mac's advice but could be 8 weeks before i am back up to full speed again. It's his site that says poor recovery/sleep is one of the biggest causes as the micro tears in the pulleys don't get chance to fix themselves.
Was very miserable yesterday and fell into the depths of despair and consumed a consolation curry and bottle of wine.
Taking the positives out of it. I can sort my elbows out, work the slopers on the BM, dumbell complexes, do lots of shoulder and hip flexibility and core work. Also going to run and lose some of the lard i've put back on over the last few weeks.
Feeling much more positive today and i've now got the chance to do all the little bits i haven't been able to get round to so i'll be a more balanced climber when i get back to it.
Things were going well. Not got my V6 done but the one i worked was not my style at Carrock. I later fell off the last move of a V6 second go but only had 10 mins on it before i had to go. It'll definitely go next time.
Bowderstone was going really well for me. A warm up and quick repeat of Crack Direct(6C+) saw me onto picnic sarcastic (7A+) my target for end of March. Last year i could do 2 moves. This year the first 3 moves felt routine and i was just working out how to make the 4th when my pulley went. Bit strange really. Not an out of control move, fairly open handed hold and i hit it well. More a chronic problem of under recovery than an acute occurence i think. Lesson learnt.
Still going out later today as it's my 35th birthday so i'll go if i want to. Probably just belay and chill.
In reply to biscuit:
I don't think I am having a mid life crisis, just finding a bit of focus again, feels really good.
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg, down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:41. Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.
Not quite done the distance I had planned for my long runs this week, mainly due to being flexible to other peoples requirements, but happy with what I have done.
Weighed in at 69.3kg this morning so that one tick, looking at my body there is probably
scope for a kilo or two more, but I will be happy if I maintain a average weight between 68 and 70.
Monday - 10 miles road at an easy pace.
Tuesday - Hard track interval session, took a lot out of me, but pleased with my performance.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 6 miles road, steady with a few faster intervals.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - South Manchester parkrun, 19:08, 33 second SB, but a bit disappointed not to break 19.
Sunday - 10+ miles road at an easy pace.
I don't think I am having a mid life crisis, just finding a bit of focus again, feels really good.
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg, down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:41. Sub 40 minute 10k (Trafford 13/03), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon, fast times in some long fell races, bit vague this one as I am still very much fell novice.
Not quite done the distance I had planned for my long runs this week, mainly due to being flexible to other peoples requirements, but happy with what I have done.
Weighed in at 69.3kg this morning so that one tick, looking at my body there is probably
scope for a kilo or two more, but I will be happy if I maintain a average weight between 68 and 70.
Monday - 10 miles road at an easy pace.
Tuesday - Hard track interval session, took a lot out of me, but pleased with my performance.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 6 miles road, steady with a few faster intervals.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - South Manchester parkrun, 19:08, 33 second SB, but a bit disappointed not to break 19.
Sunday - 10+ miles road at an easy pace.
In reply to The New NickB:
Forgot to add. Next week will be low mileage partly due to work commitments and partly due to tapering down to the Trafford 10k, at which I hope to run sub 40.
Forgot to add. Next week will be low mileage partly due to work commitments and partly due to tapering down to the Trafford 10k, at which I hope to run sub 40.
In reply to biscuit: Welcome back Biscuit
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Feeling strangely weak, failed lots of stuff.
Wednesday: Still weak, guessed I was ill.
Thurs/Friday: Ill - no climbing
Saturday: Bouldering competition. Strange performance, repeatedly fell off a few routes I should have been able to do but flashed a couple of harder ones I didn't expect to finish. Was probably my favourite boulder comp so far, I really enjoyed all the problems, kudos to the setters at The Arch.
Sunday: Rest
Monday: Rest
Tuesday: Feeling strangely weak, failed lots of stuff.
Wednesday: Still weak, guessed I was ill.
Thurs/Friday: Ill - no climbing
Saturday: Bouldering competition. Strange performance, repeatedly fell off a few routes I should have been able to do but flashed a couple of harder ones I didn't expect to finish. Was probably my favourite boulder comp so far, I really enjoyed all the problems, kudos to the setters at The Arch.
Sunday: Rest
In reply to The New NickB:
Good luck.
My dog was spayed this week so have hit the roads rather than the hills to get the miles in more than anything else. Made a nice change really, can't complain with the scenery in N Wales, even if it is from a road...
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run 150m ascent
W: 5mile trail run 150m ascent
T: 14.5mile hilly road run 7:20pace Llandudno/Conwy 300m+ ascent
F: Rest
S: 15.5mile hilly road run Llandudno/Great Orme 7:20pace 300m+ ascent
S: 12mile road run hilly Llandudno/Conwy 7:10pace 300m+ ascent
> (In reply to The New NickB)
>
> Forgot to add. Next week will be low mileage partly due to work commitments and partly due to tapering down to the Trafford 10k, at which I hope to run sub 40.
>
> Forgot to add. Next week will be low mileage partly due to work commitments and partly due to tapering down to the Trafford 10k, at which I hope to run sub 40.
Good luck.
My dog was spayed this week so have hit the roads rather than the hills to get the miles in more than anything else. Made a nice change really, can't complain with the scenery in N Wales, even if it is from a road...
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run 150m ascent
W: 5mile trail run 150m ascent
T: 14.5mile hilly road run 7:20pace Llandudno/Conwy 300m+ ascent
F: Rest
S: 15.5mile hilly road run Llandudno/Great Orme 7:20pace 300m+ ascent
S: 12mile road run hilly Llandudno/Conwy 7:10pace 300m+ ascent
In reply to biscuit:
I'm sorry to hear about your injury. I'm also not getting the amount of sleep I should, so will try and be extra careful.
The competition went really well. There were a similar number of people in the open event to last year (about 80) and I improved my position from 44th to 20th. This isn't quite as impressive as it sounds as the Finnish cup qualifications were happening simultaneously which took the best climbers out of the open. The problems seemed pretty hard with 20 of them being qualification problems for the men's and women's Finnish cup. Nevertheless, I topped 22 out of the 41 problems. To me this is the best indication that I've made significant improvements this year. As I've been mostly climbing indoors on mostly ungraded or haphazardly graded problems it's been challenging to gauge how much improvement I've made.
Next year I'm going to set myself the goal of coming in the top 10. This will be a huge challenge but a worthwhile goal and comes with a strict timescale. I think if I was a little bit better/stronger/had more endurance I could have topped a 3 more problems. This might have put me about 15th but to get in the top 10 I would have probably had to have climbed about 30 problems. In order to stand a chance of doing this I'd have to make some major advances to climb problems that I didn't even come close to. I think my priorities would be improved finger and lock off strength (to make big moves between small holds on steep walls), improved body tension for the problems involving wrestling with tufa blobs and getting much better at dynos.
I see the finger strength and core strength as a higher priorities because they should help massively towards my sport climbing goals. I will focus on these this year and work on dynos next winter.
STG Font in 6 weeks
continue to make strength improvements before the trip to Font
In Font I want to get several 7A problems in a variety of styles
MTG 10 7A/7A+ problems including
Kru Klux Klan - 7A slab – Pihlajamäki
Hanoi Rocks - 7A+ compression – Hakunila
Pot Smoker – 7A overhang crimps – Myllis
Hammas – 7A+ roof – Grottan
Improve redpoint grade to 7c for short powerful routes
Babyface – 7b Muurla
Molotov Coctail – 7b+ Backnas
Purple Haze – 7c – Backnas
Tornado – 7b+ - Nummi
Baby gym – 7c - Reventeenvuori
I'm sorry to hear about your injury. I'm also not getting the amount of sleep I should, so will try and be extra careful.
The competition went really well. There were a similar number of people in the open event to last year (about 80) and I improved my position from 44th to 20th. This isn't quite as impressive as it sounds as the Finnish cup qualifications were happening simultaneously which took the best climbers out of the open. The problems seemed pretty hard with 20 of them being qualification problems for the men's and women's Finnish cup. Nevertheless, I topped 22 out of the 41 problems. To me this is the best indication that I've made significant improvements this year. As I've been mostly climbing indoors on mostly ungraded or haphazardly graded problems it's been challenging to gauge how much improvement I've made.
Next year I'm going to set myself the goal of coming in the top 10. This will be a huge challenge but a worthwhile goal and comes with a strict timescale. I think if I was a little bit better/stronger/had more endurance I could have topped a 3 more problems. This might have put me about 15th but to get in the top 10 I would have probably had to have climbed about 30 problems. In order to stand a chance of doing this I'd have to make some major advances to climb problems that I didn't even come close to. I think my priorities would be improved finger and lock off strength (to make big moves between small holds on steep walls), improved body tension for the problems involving wrestling with tufa blobs and getting much better at dynos.
I see the finger strength and core strength as a higher priorities because they should help massively towards my sport climbing goals. I will focus on these this year and work on dynos next winter.
STG Font in 6 weeks
continue to make strength improvements before the trip to Font
In Font I want to get several 7A problems in a variety of styles
MTG 10 7A/7A+ problems including
Kru Klux Klan - 7A slab – Pihlajamäki
Hanoi Rocks - 7A+ compression – Hakunila
Pot Smoker – 7A overhang crimps – Myllis
Hammas – 7A+ roof – Grottan
Improve redpoint grade to 7c for short powerful routes
Babyface – 7b Muurla
Molotov Coctail – 7b+ Backnas
Purple Haze – 7c – Backnas
Tornado – 7b+ - Nummi
Baby gym – 7c - Reventeenvuori
In reply to biscuit: thanks biscuit.
STG: twice daily heel drops. core/glute/quad exercises.
MTG: some fell races in late spring / early summer
LTG: become mostly injury-free
VLTG: long run, 30 june 2012
M - rest
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 7 mile/500' run on forestry roads and moors - hard work but finished strongly
S - core exercises
poor in the week. life keeps getting in the way. must try harder!
heel drop sets every day - achilles seems ok
STG: twice daily heel drops. core/glute/quad exercises.
MTG: some fell races in late spring / early summer
LTG: become mostly injury-free
VLTG: long run, 30 june 2012
M - rest
T - rest
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 7 mile/500' run on forestry roads and moors - hard work but finished strongly
S - core exercises
poor in the week. life keeps getting in the way. must try harder!
heel drop sets every day - achilles seems ok
In reply to biscuit:
M-Hard run 35min
Leading at the Tower. Have a habit of messing up 7as even though I should be strong enough now.
T-Rest
W-Battle Fitness with DTUS. Great training. Running up hills carrying jerry cans and sandbags. Fair few press ups too.
T-Boulder session. A lot of campusing, a few pull ups, dead hangs and sloper stuff. Few press ups here too
F-Recovery cycle
S-Leading at the Foundry. Fell off two 7as reaching over the lip at the top of the lead wall.
S-Hopefully some press ups.
I think I need to be fairly radical now. I need to have the discipline to boulder for a while, to hopefully improve my weak points on 7a lead attempts.
Many Thanks,
Dan
M-Hard run 35min
Leading at the Tower. Have a habit of messing up 7as even though I should be strong enough now.
T-Rest
W-Battle Fitness with DTUS. Great training. Running up hills carrying jerry cans and sandbags. Fair few press ups too.
T-Boulder session. A lot of campusing, a few pull ups, dead hangs and sloper stuff. Few press ups here too
F-Recovery cycle
S-Leading at the Foundry. Fell off two 7as reaching over the lip at the top of the lead wall.
S-Hopefully some press ups.
I think I need to be fairly radical now. I need to have the discipline to boulder for a while, to hopefully improve my weak points on 7a lead attempts.
Many Thanks,
Dan
In reply to biscuit:
Been a mixed week, started well suceeding on some new problems, and matching my best time last year for a local running route. Laid low with a tooth infection since Weds though. Got a trip to Font on the agenda now which makes it consecutive Winter-Bouldering-Trad trips in the next three months, plenty to look forward to.
M: Bouldering Foundry
T: Ran 4.5 miles
W:
T:
F:
S:
S: Walked 8.4 miles
STG: CIC hut winter climbing trip THEN get in practise for Font
MTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Been a mixed week, started well suceeding on some new problems, and matching my best time last year for a local running route. Laid low with a tooth infection since Weds though. Got a trip to Font on the agenda now which makes it consecutive Winter-Bouldering-Trad trips in the next three months, plenty to look forward to.
M: Bouldering Foundry
T: Ran 4.5 miles
W:
T:
F:
S:
S: Walked 8.4 miles
STG: CIC hut winter climbing trip THEN get in practise for Font
MTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks biscuit!
I definitely need to work on my steep climbing, my endurance is awful! going to start doing circuits at the beginning and end of my bouldering sessions to try and build endurance up. 4x4's are supposed be good and work quickly!
Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Bouldering in The Climbing Hangar - Managed 2 on the blue circuit (V6 I think) 1 onsight and the other on my 3rd go. Also did a powerful V4/5 which I was pretty pleased with.
Wednesday/Thursday/Friday: Not well so I rested.
Saturday: Ended up bouldering again in The Hangar. Climbed pretty bad at the start of the session, but well in the end. Almost managed a Yellow (V7 maybe, I don't know!). I'll get it tomorrow hopefully!
Sunday: Stayed up to stupid o'clock last night so I've rested today and revised! :')
STG (This month): Onsight E1 comfortably. I quite fancy Cenotaph Corner at some point. Lead some E2s. Start working an E3. On sight 7a indoors and 6c outdoors.
Busy month hopefully. I know I can do most of them by the end of the month, it's just finding the time do actually try!
MTG (By the end of the Summer): Onsight 7a and redpoint 7c outside. Again, I know I can do it, I just need to work on my endurance lots and find a good route!
LTG (End of the Year): Onsight E3, V7 and 7b. Headpoint 'Life Assurance' and headpoint some good E4s.
Thanks biscuit!
I definitely need to work on my steep climbing, my endurance is awful! going to start doing circuits at the beginning and end of my bouldering sessions to try and build endurance up. 4x4's are supposed be good and work quickly!
Monday - Nothing
Tuesday - Bouldering in The Climbing Hangar - Managed 2 on the blue circuit (V6 I think) 1 onsight and the other on my 3rd go. Also did a powerful V4/5 which I was pretty pleased with.
Wednesday/Thursday/Friday: Not well so I rested.
Saturday: Ended up bouldering again in The Hangar. Climbed pretty bad at the start of the session, but well in the end. Almost managed a Yellow (V7 maybe, I don't know!). I'll get it tomorrow hopefully!
Sunday: Stayed up to stupid o'clock last night so I've rested today and revised! :')
STG (This month): Onsight E1 comfortably. I quite fancy Cenotaph Corner at some point. Lead some E2s. Start working an E3. On sight 7a indoors and 6c outdoors.
Busy month hopefully. I know I can do most of them by the end of the month, it's just finding the time do actually try!
MTG (By the end of the Summer): Onsight 7a and redpoint 7c outside. Again, I know I can do it, I just need to work on my endurance lots and find a good route!
LTG (End of the Year): Onsight E3, V7 and 7b. Headpoint 'Life Assurance' and headpoint some good E4s.
Mon - 4 miles easy road run
Tue - 5 miles easy
Wed - away
Thu/Fri - walking and wild camping in the moelwyns
Sat - 6 miles trail run
Sun - 10 mile fell run recceing the aran race
Tue - 5 miles easy
Wed - away
Thu/Fri - walking and wild camping in the moelwyns
Sat - 6 miles trail run
Sun - 10 mile fell run recceing the aran race
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit. My flight is delayed, so I'm sitting round at nice airport waiting...
Well, the start of the week went to plan with a half decent aerocap sort of session on the boulder at the warehouse.
The trip itself didn't really go to plan though. The plus side was that it's a brilliant crag, we might go back in October, I got some nice routes done and I got to work on a suntan
Also I could feel my ability to shake out and to climb with a slight pump seemed to be improved which means something (the aerocap I guess) has been working.
In terms of goals I achieved diddly squat though. Very dispiriting to find that whatever I've been training hasn't been the right thing for long endurance 7as to feel possible quickly or even possibly slowly. I don't feel like I really know how the rules work -it seemed you could stick a crux in that wouldn't look out of place low down on a 7a in the uk at the end of 30m of sustained climbing and it still of 7a...
Anyway, in the interests of staying positive, and hopefully achieving more when I go out again in April, I thought I'd try a post match analysis of the attempts. I would very much welcome any advice people have.
Day 1 - frontiers du neant. Sustained steep climbing on good holds to an ok arm bar rest to a bit more sustained climbing leads to a hard long move off a gaston 2 finger pocket. Just couldn't do the move after the climbing before it.
Day 2 - cap horn. Balancey section on small holds that I couldn't hold together after the steep ground below. Then there was a crux above I didn't even get to!
Day 2 - strawberry nose, a 7a+. This one felt most doable of the lot for me - short power-endurance section with some powerful moves off 2-finger pockets (good improvement in strength on these I thought, which is nice) into a rest with easier ground above. This one felt like it could have gone had I had more time and got on it fresh.
Day 3 - miss tintiguette. Monstrously overhanging route, powerful long moves on very steep ground. Basically just powered out.
Day 4 - had another go at strawberry nose but it was too hot and I'm knackered.
Day 4 - magicien d'oz. Pumpy steep mid section. Felt kind of doable if fresh, perhaps, since it had some rests, but the section to the first rest was kind of intense, not the sort of ground I could recover on easily.
Looking at them it looks like basically pulling hard sections when pumped was my weakness. I felt ok with resting, better ability to shakeout and to climb with moderate pump than before, but when it got to more intense moves I couldn't hold them together long enough.
So I'm trying to figure out what to do in the long term toget better at this sort of route, and also more immediately what to work on before April to improve things. I think that working more intense power-endurance (shorter, harder things, upping the intensity lots), but a part of me doesn't really know if I'm looking at it all wrong and that more of the aerocap sort of stuff will be what I need to try and get to a position where I can recover better and hence not get so pumped in thefirst place.
Anyway, all opinions very welcome.
Andy
Cheers biscuit. My flight is delayed, so I'm sitting round at nice airport waiting...
Well, the start of the week went to plan with a half decent aerocap sort of session on the boulder at the warehouse.
The trip itself didn't really go to plan though. The plus side was that it's a brilliant crag, we might go back in October, I got some nice routes done and I got to work on a suntan
Also I could feel my ability to shake out and to climb with a slight pump seemed to be improved which means something (the aerocap I guess) has been working.
In terms of goals I achieved diddly squat though. Very dispiriting to find that whatever I've been training hasn't been the right thing for long endurance 7as to feel possible quickly or even possibly slowly. I don't feel like I really know how the rules work -it seemed you could stick a crux in that wouldn't look out of place low down on a 7a in the uk at the end of 30m of sustained climbing and it still of 7a...
Anyway, in the interests of staying positive, and hopefully achieving more when I go out again in April, I thought I'd try a post match analysis of the attempts. I would very much welcome any advice people have.
Day 1 - frontiers du neant. Sustained steep climbing on good holds to an ok arm bar rest to a bit more sustained climbing leads to a hard long move off a gaston 2 finger pocket. Just couldn't do the move after the climbing before it.
Day 2 - cap horn. Balancey section on small holds that I couldn't hold together after the steep ground below. Then there was a crux above I didn't even get to!
Day 2 - strawberry nose, a 7a+. This one felt most doable of the lot for me - short power-endurance section with some powerful moves off 2-finger pockets (good improvement in strength on these I thought, which is nice) into a rest with easier ground above. This one felt like it could have gone had I had more time and got on it fresh.
Day 3 - miss tintiguette. Monstrously overhanging route, powerful long moves on very steep ground. Basically just powered out.
Day 4 - had another go at strawberry nose but it was too hot and I'm knackered.
Day 4 - magicien d'oz. Pumpy steep mid section. Felt kind of doable if fresh, perhaps, since it had some rests, but the section to the first rest was kind of intense, not the sort of ground I could recover on easily.
Looking at them it looks like basically pulling hard sections when pumped was my weakness. I felt ok with resting, better ability to shakeout and to climb with moderate pump than before, but when it got to more intense moves I couldn't hold them together long enough.
So I'm trying to figure out what to do in the long term toget better at this sort of route, and also more immediately what to work on before April to improve things. I think that working more intense power-endurance (shorter, harder things, upping the intensity lots), but a part of me doesn't really know if I'm looking at it all wrong and that more of the aerocap sort of stuff will be what I need to try and get to a position where I can recover better and hence not get so pumped in thefirst place.
Anyway, all opinions very welcome.
Andy
In reply to biscuit:
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus:
Mon: 20 mins Core 281(350). 32 pull-ups. 20 mins Antagonistic (4.5kg).
Tue: Nowt.
Wed: Nowt.
Thu: Rehab exercises.
Fri: 140 mins indoor climbing (15 4-6c).
Sat: Rehab exercises.
Sun: Nowt.
Fully agree that good quality sleep is very important, for me it is the most important piece of the jigsaw. Although this week was still poor from a training point of view I've successfully changed a couple of habbits that I think will improve the training quality and quantity within the next few weeks.
The big positive that I've taken from this year so far is that my technique has improved and I have a much better idea of where to concentrate on improving my technique further.
I've got my private medical insurance sorted & so will be seeing the physio every week for the next month or so.
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus:
Mon: 20 mins Core 281(350). 32 pull-ups. 20 mins Antagonistic (4.5kg).
Tue: Nowt.
Wed: Nowt.
Thu: Rehab exercises.
Fri: 140 mins indoor climbing (15 4-6c).
Sat: Rehab exercises.
Sun: Nowt.
Fully agree that good quality sleep is very important, for me it is the most important piece of the jigsaw. Although this week was still poor from a training point of view I've successfully changed a couple of habbits that I think will improve the training quality and quantity within the next few weeks.
The big positive that I've taken from this year so far is that my technique has improved and I have a much better idea of where to concentrate on improving my technique further.
I've got my private medical insurance sorted & so will be seeing the physio every week for the next month or so.
In reply to biscuit: Thanks for taking the reins. I did get a bit more sleep, now up to 6 hours a night!
Tues - The Hangar. Did the blacks to warm up, then tried the blues. Good circuit, did most of them, a couple to go back for.
Wed - parents evening (oldest lad)
Thurs - work
Fri -nowt
Sat - Pen Trywn. Warmed up in the cave then went to the Cutaway. Put the clips in a nice little 7b+, came to redpoint it and the sea mist rolled in. Crag became totally clagged out. Retired to the cave, went on left wall traverse, but was defeated by grease and dampness. Not a successful day, but a good work-out, refined my sequence on left wall low, should go on the next visit.
Andy F
Tues - The Hangar. Did the blacks to warm up, then tried the blues. Good circuit, did most of them, a couple to go back for.
Wed - parents evening (oldest lad)
Thurs - work
Fri -nowt
Sat - Pen Trywn. Warmed up in the cave then went to the Cutaway. Put the clips in a nice little 7b+, came to redpoint it and the sea mist rolled in. Crag became totally clagged out. Retired to the cave, went on left wall traverse, but was defeated by grease and dampness. Not a successful day, but a good work-out, refined my sequence on left wall low, should go on the next visit.
Andy F
In reply to biscuit: Thanks once again biscuit!
M: Nowt (recovering from Peak the day before).
T: Nowt
W: Wall sesh - 6a, 6a+, 6c (1 fall), 6c (rpt), 6b (1 fall)
T: Nowt
F: Day off, got tattooed, totally in bits afterwards.
S: Still sore and tired.
S: Day out with g/f.
Had a very good week, albeit with not much climbing. Wed sesh was a bit rubbish as I was tired, but better something than nothing. Friday was a new and very painful and intense experience so have been resting up after that, and catching up on sleep.
Have booked a chalet in the Verdon so now it's as much training as I can manage for the next six weeks to get fit for the Gorge. Need to suss out a bit of a training plan.
M: Nowt (recovering from Peak the day before).
T: Nowt
W: Wall sesh - 6a, 6a+, 6c (1 fall), 6c (rpt), 6b (1 fall)
T: Nowt
F: Day off, got tattooed, totally in bits afterwards.
S: Still sore and tired.
S: Day out with g/f.
Had a very good week, albeit with not much climbing. Wed sesh was a bit rubbish as I was tired, but better something than nothing. Friday was a new and very painful and intense experience so have been resting up after that, and catching up on sleep.
Have booked a chalet in the Verdon so now it's as much training as I can manage for the next six weeks to get fit for the Gorge. Need to suss out a bit of a training plan.
In reply to biscuit:
sorry to hear about the finger, sounds like you have some positive things in for the downtime though.
AJM - four days on? I'd never attempt that even on a short trip, I've learnt 2.5 days is my max for optimal performance, beyond that is just a waste for me anyway.
M:neck ache from a fall on sunday, minor whiplash!!
T:depot, ok session, bit busy, concentrated on the big roof for arm work
W:
T:stayed at home, bit bored with the walls, 45 min stretch session
F:
S:
Seeds wall, good set of problems post-reset and a good session on the training board upstairs. stretching in-between the laps on the board. totally wiped out now though.
sorry to hear about the finger, sounds like you have some positive things in for the downtime though.
AJM - four days on? I'd never attempt that even on a short trip, I've learnt 2.5 days is my max for optimal performance, beyond that is just a waste for me anyway.
M:neck ache from a fall on sunday, minor whiplash!!
T:depot, ok session, bit busy, concentrated on the big roof for arm work
W:
T:stayed at home, bit bored with the walls, 45 min stretch session
F:
S:
Seeds wall, good set of problems post-reset and a good session on the training board upstairs. stretching in-between the laps on the board. totally wiped out now though.
In reply to richardh:
3.5 really, we didn't get to the crag til lunchtime on the first day.
The last day I was definitely feeling the effects. I usually work on 2-3 on 1 off, maybe I should have gone for easy mileage today, but I had hoped to have a decent go at that 7a+, try and get something cool ticked.
3.5 really, we didn't get to the crag til lunchtime on the first day.
The last day I was definitely feeling the effects. I usually work on 2-3 on 1 off, maybe I should have gone for easy mileage today, but I had hoped to have a decent go at that 7a+, try and get something cool ticked.
In reply to biscuit:
Sorry about the injury, glad you're taking a really positive approach to it. I usually end up moping around.
STG (by April 2011): 7b at malham - seventh aardvark
MTG (by end of 2011): 7b+ outdoor
General illness persisted for most of last week leading to almost two weeks off until:
Thurs: routes session indoor. Climed like a complete Moron and was getting shut down on 6c's.
Fri: Craig y longridge. Good to get out on real rock again. Didn't feel very strong but better than thurs.
Sun: malham. Felt a bit better so after a warm up put the clips in seventh aardvark and had a few goes working moves out. Got it in two sections and feel it'll go once I'm firing on all cylinders again. Yet again I am hugely psyched for routes at malham!
Looking forward to putting in some hard work this week and hopefully getting back to malham next weekend.
Sorry about the injury, glad you're taking a really positive approach to it. I usually end up moping around.
STG (by April 2011): 7b at malham - seventh aardvark
MTG (by end of 2011): 7b+ outdoor
General illness persisted for most of last week leading to almost two weeks off until:
Thurs: routes session indoor. Climed like a complete Moron and was getting shut down on 6c's.
Fri: Craig y longridge. Good to get out on real rock again. Didn't feel very strong but better than thurs.
Sun: malham. Felt a bit better so after a warm up put the clips in seventh aardvark and had a few goes working moves out. Got it in two sections and feel it'll go once I'm firing on all cylinders again. Yet again I am hugely psyched for routes at malham!
Looking forward to putting in some hard work this week and hopefully getting back to malham next weekend.
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers Biscuit.
I can feel your pain (literally). Like you say, it's best to focus on the positives and use the 'downtime' to focus on other areas of your climbing.
Decided to up my sessions back to the usual 3 or 4 this week after 3 weeks of once per week climbing. As of today, my finger / arm has held up and felt ok whilst I was climbing. Very much going to play this by ear though and definitely paying very close attention to any warning signs.
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering (outdoor): Ok at current level (V3 onsight / V5/6 RP)
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (2 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (19 DONE) -- injured finger / arm may have put pay to this.
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Easy session nursing injured finger/arm. V0-V3 traverses followed by some V0-V1 circuit problems. Head felt good and arm felt ok. Fingers crossed!
F: Still nursing arm but feeling stronger again (touch wood). Some mid-high level intensity continuous traversing and easier up problems. Climbing until pumped, and a little passed, on pretty small edges. Felt good tonight.
S: Planned for an all-dayer at Birchen but rained off
S: Nice afternoon bouldering at Ramshaw and Newstones. Ticked a few problems up to V2. Was nice to get back out on dry rock!
Weight: 140.6 lbs (? lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.1 %
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.
Cheers Biscuit.
I can feel your pain (literally). Like you say, it's best to focus on the positives and use the 'downtime' to focus on other areas of your climbing.
Decided to up my sessions back to the usual 3 or 4 this week after 3 weeks of once per week climbing. As of today, my finger / arm has held up and felt ok whilst I was climbing. Very much going to play this by ear though and definitely paying very close attention to any warning signs.
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering (outdoor): Ok at current level (V3 onsight / V5/6 RP)
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (2 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE))
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (19 DONE) -- injured finger / arm may have put pay to this.
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Easy session nursing injured finger/arm. V0-V3 traverses followed by some V0-V1 circuit problems. Head felt good and arm felt ok. Fingers crossed!
F: Still nursing arm but feeling stronger again (touch wood). Some mid-high level intensity continuous traversing and easier up problems. Climbing until pumped, and a little passed, on pretty small edges. Felt good tonight.
S: Planned for an all-dayer at Birchen but rained off
S: Nice afternoon bouldering at Ramshaw and Newstones. Ticked a few problems up to V2. Was nice to get back out on dry rock!
Weight: 140.6 lbs (? lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.1 %
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: SiS 99% Pure Fish Oil supplement with vits etc.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks for that - sorry that you're injured though. I hope it takes less than 8 weeks to feel better.
Not much going on this week -
T- Bouldering - hard problems - basically just getting on the steep stuff I'm so bad at. Tried some offset pull ups, which felt like they were working something that needed to be worked (biceps)!
Th - same again. I think I'm going to introduce a volume session this week instead of two 'trying to pull hard' sessions.
F-Sun - Essay writing so did nothing but sit at a desk. Really gutted to miss the good weather today, but there'll be more (I hope!) and I'll be all the more psyched for it when it arrives.
Not seeing a huge amount of progress really, although I haven't been training consistently and regularly enough to make that much progress.
Thanks for that - sorry that you're injured though. I hope it takes less than 8 weeks to feel better.
Not much going on this week -
T- Bouldering - hard problems - basically just getting on the steep stuff I'm so bad at. Tried some offset pull ups, which felt like they were working something that needed to be worked (biceps)!
Th - same again. I think I'm going to introduce a volume session this week instead of two 'trying to pull hard' sessions.
F-Sun - Essay writing so did nothing but sit at a desk. Really gutted to miss the good weather today, but there'll be more (I hope!) and I'll be all the more psyched for it when it arrives.
Not seeing a huge amount of progress really, although I haven't been training consistently and regularly enough to make that much progress.
In reply to biscuit:
Biscuit, I was on holiday with the wife, so just decided to be lazy
STG - 25:15 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 25:00 5k, Consolidate VS (6/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 24:45 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 5k run
T - Ill
F - Ill
S - Ill
S - Trad climbing
Been very lazy the past few weeks and I've really let the diet go. Put on another few pounds. I've been mainly ill this week, still not feeling 100%. It showed today when I went climbing. Bailed of a Severe and a HS both of which I'd previously led. Just couldn't commit to the crux moved on either climb. Still managed to frig my way up a couple of VS, both of which were fun. Also it's good for getting endurance back (as I have no climbing strength after the winter layoff) ready for the main summer trad climbing season. Will try and do some bouldering. Shoulder still not great tho, so back to the re-hab exercises. I'll be hopefully feeling better next week, so will get some exercise in.
Biscuit, I was on holiday with the wife, so just decided to be lazy
STG - 25:15 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 25:00 5k, Consolidate VS (6/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 24:45 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - 5k run
T - Ill
F - Ill
S - Ill
S - Trad climbing
Been very lazy the past few weeks and I've really let the diet go. Put on another few pounds. I've been mainly ill this week, still not feeling 100%. It showed today when I went climbing. Bailed of a Severe and a HS both of which I'd previously led. Just couldn't commit to the crux moved on either climb. Still managed to frig my way up a couple of VS, both of which were fun. Also it's good for getting endurance back (as I have no climbing strength after the winter layoff) ready for the main summer trad climbing season. Will try and do some bouldering. Shoulder still not great tho, so back to the re-hab exercises. I'll be hopefully feeling better next week, so will get some exercise in.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks, but dunno about that! Don't think I've had a 60-mile calendar week yet this year and had to make an effort today to rescue 55(ish) after losing Tuesday (felt crap!) as well as my usual Monday then turning down two climbing partners for Saturday to spend most of the day working on the boat. But it's amazing what a mixture of knowing what you need and committing to reporting it here can do for you, and should have a 60-mile rolling week (ie seven days rather than Mon to Sun) on the go for at least a few days after Tuesday...
M: Rest
T: Rest (brought my headache home from a late night at work!)
W: Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft (just got back without needing the torch)
F: Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
S: Meall na Cruaidhe, Feith Chiarain, Loch Treig & Luibeilt, 22.7 miles/3,600 ft
Still hoping to get some more winter climbing in, but no doubt that the West Highland Way Race is my priority even now (no point going for it again unless I'm giving myself the best possible chance of getting what I want), so maybe need to earn those Ben days with better midweek mileage than I got this week!
Current Goals (which I seem to have left out of last week's post):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
> petestack – steady and consistent as ever
Thanks, but dunno about that! Don't think I've had a 60-mile calendar week yet this year and had to make an effort today to rescue 55(ish) after losing Tuesday (felt crap!) as well as my usual Monday then turning down two climbing partners for Saturday to spend most of the day working on the boat. But it's amazing what a mixture of knowing what you need and committing to reporting it here can do for you, and should have a 60-mile rolling week (ie seven days rather than Mon to Sun) on the go for at least a few days after Tuesday...
M: Rest
T: Rest (brought my headache home from a late night at work!)
W: Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: Altnafeadh, 12.1 miles/3,200 ft (just got back without needing the torch)
F: Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: Dam by Ciaran Path, 9.1 miles/2,100 ft
S: Meall na Cruaidhe, Feith Chiarain, Loch Treig & Luibeilt, 22.7 miles/3,600 ft
Still hoping to get some more winter climbing in, but no doubt that the West Highland Way Race is my priority even now (no point going for it again unless I'm giving myself the best possible chance of getting what I want), so maybe need to earn those Ben days with better midweek mileage than I got this week!
Current Goals (which I seem to have left out of last week's post):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks for the warning, Andy. I spent most of last year learning how to deal with pulley injuries (mostly through not doing it properly) I've got a pretty good handle on how to manage them now.
M: nowt (for 5 days total rest)
T: Routes at WW - 6 in the 5+ to 6b range
W: Nowt - late at work
T: Tim Emmett Lecture (pretty good, by the way)
F: Stamina session at the castle - two sets of about 10 V2 problems with less-than-enough rest. 2-3mins per problem
S: Harrisons, about 4 routes
S: Bowles, 5 routes
Routes at the WW on Tuesday was a bit of a shock. Only managed to lead about half a dozen before pumping out. Bouldering is no good for stamina. Who knew? Also noticed my head game is a bit off, so have that to look to fixing too. Main focus before France (11th April) is now stamina and health!
I've been using Dave MacLeod's cold water treatment whenever I get the chance. Angry finger on my left hand is no longer tender, so that should be OK in a few weeks. Right hand one still sore, so that's gonna need some looking after. Steep climbing on big jugs for the next few weeks!
This week I found out about Gym Jones, and "instinctive" training planning. Dave Mac did an article in Rock and Ice, which has left me slightly more educated, but with a lot more questions about instinctive training, instead of periodization. I *think* I get it, but I need to do mroe research.
Was great to get out on rock for the first time this year. Didn't get a lot of routes in though. One thing I picked up from Gym Jones is that general fitness helps you to recover more quickly, and thereby do more climbing. Now I've got more motivation to go running when I don't have time to climb, as my general fitness is pretty ropey.
A pretty good week, on reflection. Although I am in DIRE need of a haircut...
Thanks for the warning, Andy. I spent most of last year learning how to deal with pulley injuries (mostly through not doing it properly) I've got a pretty good handle on how to manage them now.
M: nowt (for 5 days total rest)
T: Routes at WW - 6 in the 5+ to 6b range
W: Nowt - late at work
T: Tim Emmett Lecture (pretty good, by the way)
F: Stamina session at the castle - two sets of about 10 V2 problems with less-than-enough rest. 2-3mins per problem
S: Harrisons, about 4 routes
S: Bowles, 5 routes
Routes at the WW on Tuesday was a bit of a shock. Only managed to lead about half a dozen before pumping out. Bouldering is no good for stamina. Who knew? Also noticed my head game is a bit off, so have that to look to fixing too. Main focus before France (11th April) is now stamina and health!
I've been using Dave MacLeod's cold water treatment whenever I get the chance. Angry finger on my left hand is no longer tender, so that should be OK in a few weeks. Right hand one still sore, so that's gonna need some looking after. Steep climbing on big jugs for the next few weeks!
This week I found out about Gym Jones, and "instinctive" training planning. Dave Mac did an article in Rock and Ice, which has left me slightly more educated, but with a lot more questions about instinctive training, instead of periodization. I *think* I get it, but I need to do mroe research.
Was great to get out on rock for the first time this year. Didn't get a lot of routes in though. One thing I picked up from Gym Jones is that general fitness helps you to recover more quickly, and thereby do more climbing. Now I've got more motivation to go running when I don't have time to climb, as my general fitness is pretty ropey.
A pretty good week, on reflection. Although I am in DIRE need of a haircut...
In reply to biscuit:
I need a good kick up the arse from time to time.
STG (end of march):
RP 6b+ - North Wales
onsight a HVS Tick
MTG end of june:
RP 6c?
Onsight E1/E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
2/3 climbing sessions. Tick including two on real rock
M: rest
T: Football training. Showed I had not trained in a while
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. Bouldered to warm up then climbed routes mainly felt like I had a good strong session
T: rest
F: Holmfirth. REAL ROCK WOO FU€&ING HOO. Good circuit revisiting old problems up to V3. I got one move further on upside down arete a V4 I have been trying for around 2 years.
S: Football match. Got roped into reffing the first half(urgh). got 10 mins as sub secod half.
S: Trad. YYFY. Started off at standing stones but it was seeping so after seconding one route and one of my partners backing off one route. we went to pule. Warmed up traversing around leprosy wall Step and juggy gets a nice light pump going. Then I got on a HVS I had been eyeing up on the last couple of trips. Felt hard for HVS 5a (felt more like 5b)
This weeks goals:
Take it as it comes might be off to wales at the weekend but I am not sure.
At least too climbing sessions.
Holmfirth tongiht?
Excellent week. Psyched!! Must climb harder! It was nice to get my first trad route done of the year and it was nice for it to feel at my limit. not felt that awesome feeling of pushing myself above gear in a while.
> I am 35 today
Happy Birthday for yesterday> grubes – steady rest week. Ramp it up now !
Thanks Biscuit.I need a good kick up the arse from time to time.
STG (end of march):
RP 6b+ - North Wales
onsight a HVS Tick
MTG end of june:
RP 6c?
Onsight E1/E2
Flash Browns eliminate
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
2/3 climbing sessions. Tick including two on real rock
M: rest
T: Football training. Showed I had not trained in a while
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. Bouldered to warm up then climbed routes mainly felt like I had a good strong session
T: rest
F: Holmfirth. REAL ROCK WOO FU€&ING HOO. Good circuit revisiting old problems up to V3. I got one move further on upside down arete a V4 I have been trying for around 2 years.
S: Football match. Got roped into reffing the first half(urgh). got 10 mins as sub secod half.
S: Trad. YYFY. Started off at standing stones but it was seeping so after seconding one route and one of my partners backing off one route. we went to pule. Warmed up traversing around leprosy wall Step and juggy gets a nice light pump going. Then I got on a HVS I had been eyeing up on the last couple of trips. Felt hard for HVS 5a (felt more like 5b)
This weeks goals:
Take it as it comes might be off to wales at the weekend but I am not sure.
At least too climbing sessions.
Holmfirth tongiht?
Excellent week. Psyched!! Must climb harder! It was nice to get my first trad route done of the year and it was nice for it to feel at my limit. not felt that awesome feeling of pushing myself above gear in a while.
In reply to biscuit: Hi Biscuit, glad to see everyone is getting on well with their goals - I think I'd like back in for a while if thats ok!
Had a crappy few months with injury but hopefully I've managed to turn a bit of a corner now......
Goals:
March: Get a run in the A team at SEAA 12 Stage Relay.
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make the team for the National 12 Stage Relay.
May: Sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goals - get pain inflicted on me by physio and do 5K time trial
Was in Portugal Mon/Tues warm weather training:
Mon: am Session on XC course - 2.5M warm-up then drills/strides then 2,4,6,8,6,4,2 min off 1/2 rep recoveries, 1.5M warm down. (~11M). pm: 4M easy in 32:06
Tues: am 7/8M steady in 52:06
Weds: flew back to UK. pm: light session - 15min warm-up, 3x10min tempo off 2min jog 15min cool down (9M)
Thurs: lunchtime - physio exercises, pm gym - Bike 70min including 2 x 15min tempo
Fri: lunchtime - physio exercises, pm - 8M road in 52:57
Sat: am 2M warm-up then 5 x 1M off 1min. Times were: 5:37,5:20,5:15,5:17, 5:15, 2M cool down - felt like going well although always takes me one to get into it!
Sun: Stiff/sore as didn't get chance to do a second run on Sat as drove to Bath as gf was doing the Bath 1/2. am 3/4M running round trying to see gf as many times as possible. pm 4M easy in 32:45
~56M Total Good week overall - starting to show some progress.
Had a crappy few months with injury but hopefully I've managed to turn a bit of a corner now......
Goals:
March: Get a run in the A team at SEAA 12 Stage Relay.
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make the team for the National 12 Stage Relay.
May: Sub 33min 10K.
This weeks goals - get pain inflicted on me by physio and do 5K time trial
Was in Portugal Mon/Tues warm weather training:
Mon: am Session on XC course - 2.5M warm-up then drills/strides then 2,4,6,8,6,4,2 min off 1/2 rep recoveries, 1.5M warm down. (~11M). pm: 4M easy in 32:06
Tues: am 7/8M steady in 52:06
Weds: flew back to UK. pm: light session - 15min warm-up, 3x10min tempo off 2min jog 15min cool down (9M)
Thurs: lunchtime - physio exercises, pm gym - Bike 70min including 2 x 15min tempo
Fri: lunchtime - physio exercises, pm - 8M road in 52:57
Sat: am 2M warm-up then 5 x 1M off 1min. Times were: 5:37,5:20,5:15,5:17, 5:15, 2M cool down - felt like going well although always takes me one to get into it!
Sun: Stiff/sore as didn't get chance to do a second run on Sat as drove to Bath as gf was doing the Bath 1/2. am 3/4M running round trying to see gf as many times as possible. pm 4M easy in 32:45
~56M Total Good week overall - starting to show some progress.
In reply to biscuit:
Really sorry to hear that. As you say, take the positives - make yourself a maintenance schedule, working the bits you can - so when your pulley heals you haven't lost the hard work you've put in. Don't know how bad the tear is but ARC work is not usually too rough on the fingers, perhaps after a couple of weeks? It stimulates blood flow so provided you don't aggravate it, could accelerate healing. Get yourself an ab wheel and come back with a core of steel
Really sorry to hear that. As you say, take the positives - make yourself a maintenance schedule, working the bits you can - so when your pulley heals you haven't lost the hard work you've put in. Don't know how bad the tear is but ARC work is not usually too rough on the fingers, perhaps after a couple of weeks? It stimulates blood flow so provided you don't aggravate it, could accelerate healing. Get yourself an ab wheel and come back with a core of steel
In reply to AJM:
sorry I don't know how much light I can shed. Definitely sounds like a power endurance issue. What is your pacing like? Are you moving quickly enough over pumpy ground?
Have you seen this link before? I can't remember, I pimp it to everyone. Sounds like it might be useful to throw into the mix if you are doing long sustained routes with opportunity to recover, but can't manage 7a cruxes at the end of 25+ metres of draining climbing?
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/06/09/density-training/
little of column A, little of column B? Mix up the endurance sessions so you are working 2 or 3 distinct ranges on the power-endurance spectrum each session?
Stick with it, I'm sure when it comes together it'll be worth it.
sorry I don't know how much light I can shed. Definitely sounds like a power endurance issue. What is your pacing like? Are you moving quickly enough over pumpy ground?
Have you seen this link before? I can't remember, I pimp it to everyone. Sounds like it might be useful to throw into the mix if you are doing long sustained routes with opportunity to recover, but can't manage 7a cruxes at the end of 25+ metres of draining climbing?
http://climbstrong.wordpress.com/2010/06/09/density-training/
> I think that working more intense power-endurance (shorter, harder things, upping the intensity lots), but a part of me doesn't really know if I'm looking at it all wrong and that more of the aerocap sort of stuff will be what I need to try and get to a position where I can recover better and hence not get so pumped in thefirst place.
little of column A, little of column B? Mix up the endurance sessions so you are working 2 or 3 distinct ranges on the power-endurance spectrum each session?
Stick with it, I'm sure when it comes together it'll be worth it.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Cheers Nick, and everyone else who has commiserated me.
I went out yesterday with the idea of belaying and taking photos. No one was interested in routes so we ended up bouldering. I couldn't resist. I started off very nervous and taped my middle finger to my ring finger and mummified it so i couldn't bend it at all. It felt OK and i progressed from VB to V0 to V1 to V2 etc etc etc and ended up getting my STG of V6. It's a repeat and i really wanted a new one but beggars can't be choosers.
Although it went really well it was a bit silly ( but i knew all the problems well so was always in control ) and i am acutely aware if do just pull wrong once i could mess up the entire year. So sensible hat on now and i will take a couple of weeks off completely before coming back slowly, with no niggles a strong core and a few less pounds.
I saw a video on here a while ago of a Japanese (?) climber - sadly i can't recall his name. He was talking of how climbing was his life but if he got injured he never let it get him down as it meant he could do other stuff and still smiled every day. It's helped me not get too miserable. Worth a search in the videos here if you are injured.
Cheers Nick, and everyone else who has commiserated me.
I went out yesterday with the idea of belaying and taking photos. No one was interested in routes so we ended up bouldering. I couldn't resist. I started off very nervous and taped my middle finger to my ring finger and mummified it so i couldn't bend it at all. It felt OK and i progressed from VB to V0 to V1 to V2 etc etc etc and ended up getting my STG of V6. It's a repeat and i really wanted a new one but beggars can't be choosers.
Although it went really well it was a bit silly ( but i knew all the problems well so was always in control ) and i am acutely aware if do just pull wrong once i could mess up the entire year. So sensible hat on now and i will take a couple of weeks off completely before coming back slowly, with no niggles a strong core and a few less pounds.
I saw a video on here a while ago of a Japanese (?) climber - sadly i can't recall his name. He was talking of how climbing was his life but if he got injured he never let it get him down as it meant he could do other stuff and still smiled every day. It's helped me not get too miserable. Worth a search in the videos here if you are injured.
In reply to biscuit:
I remember when I messed my elbows up first time around I got into cycling lots and came back to climbing much fitter. You shouldn't be out of the game for too long but coming back a bit lighter, fitter and with some bad-ass core strength should lead to quick progression when you're healed.
I aggravated a pulley injury at the bowderstone so I know how annoying it is looking at all the lovely steepness and not being able to crank.
Here's hoping for a swift recovery.
I remember when I messed my elbows up first time around I got into cycling lots and came back to climbing much fitter. You shouldn't be out of the game for too long but coming back a bit lighter, fitter and with some bad-ass core strength should lead to quick progression when you're healed.
I aggravated a pulley injury at the bowderstone so I know how annoying it is looking at all the lovely steepness and not being able to crank.
Here's hoping for a swift recovery.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Pacing a bit slow I reckon but not too bad. I think even had it been perfect it wouldn't have been enough.
Probably right on doing a bit of both. Been thinking about it today and I guess I've built some "trad fitness" as I can han on, climb moderate ground pumped etc but need to build some sport fitness for the more intense stuff.
Certainly hope it all comes together. It's a very inspiring style of climbing, and I'd hate to be stuck being rubbish at it
Will check the link out later.
Pacing a bit slow I reckon but not too bad. I think even had it been perfect it wouldn't have been enough.
Probably right on doing a bit of both. Been thinking about it today and I guess I've built some "trad fitness" as I can han on, climb moderate ground pumped etc but need to build some sport fitness for the more intense stuff.
Certainly hope it all comes together. It's a very inspiring style of climbing, and I'd hate to be stuck being rubbish at it
Will check the link out later.
In reply to biscuit: cheers, keeping going, just..
m: 5 mile trail run Gwydyr forest
t: 5.2 mile trail run Holyhead Mountain
w: rest. Found out cast on until mid April/May. fainted at hospital during X rays..second time in 3 years..reckon I have issues with hospitals..
t: lunch: 7 x 400m reps. am: 9 mile 700m ascent fell run Moel Cynghorion
f & S: 42 mile high peak marathon. 3rd.
s: 3 mile fell/trail run. Alltwen, penmaenbach and Conwy mountain
m: 5 mile trail run Gwydyr forest
t: 5.2 mile trail run Holyhead Mountain
w: rest. Found out cast on until mid April/May. fainted at hospital during X rays..second time in 3 years..reckon I have issues with hospitals..
t: lunch: 7 x 400m reps. am: 9 mile 700m ascent fell run Moel Cynghorion
f & S: 42 mile high peak marathon. 3rd.
s: 3 mile fell/trail run. Alltwen, penmaenbach and Conwy mountain
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers Biscuit. Unfortunately I may have been a bit over optimistic last week, I've had another week of hacking and sneezing with no end yet in sight. As a result I've been avoiding running, going out too much and pretty lazy generally.
Still, I managed a few good climbing sessions and my first good outdoor day of the season. Indoors my flexibility and leg strength is consistently causing me problems on technical and awkward problems. I flashed all but the vertical problems on the Harrogate 'hard' (green) circuit then simply couldn't do the rockovers to finish the set off. Running will help with strength when I can eventually get back into it but I really need to get the flexibility up!
M: Indoor, Oaklands. Good session with a (soft) 7a+ flash.
T:
W:
T: Indoors, Harrogate. Good session, mixed bouldering and routes.
F:
S: Outdoors, Crookrise. Just finding my feet (aka: climbing like a donkey)
S:
Coming week:
Volume climbing [tick - good enough]
>3 Stretching sessions [fail - none, lazy]
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions [fail - none, lazy]
>7mi Running [fail - still wheezy]
Lose 1/2kg (currently 77.9kg) [fail -0.3kg]
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
Cheers Biscuit. Unfortunately I may have been a bit over optimistic last week, I've had another week of hacking and sneezing with no end yet in sight. As a result I've been avoiding running, going out too much and pretty lazy generally.
Still, I managed a few good climbing sessions and my first good outdoor day of the season. Indoors my flexibility and leg strength is consistently causing me problems on technical and awkward problems. I flashed all but the vertical problems on the Harrogate 'hard' (green) circuit then simply couldn't do the rockovers to finish the set off. Running will help with strength when I can eventually get back into it but I really need to get the flexibility up!
M: Indoor, Oaklands. Good session with a (soft) 7a+ flash.
T:
W:
T: Indoors, Harrogate. Good session, mixed bouldering and routes.
F:
S: Outdoors, Crookrise. Just finding my feet (aka: climbing like a donkey)
S:
Coming week:
Volume climbing [tick - good enough]
>3 Stretching sessions [fail - none, lazy]
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions [fail - none, lazy]
>7mi Running [fail - still wheezy]
Lose 1/2kg (currently 77.9kg) [fail -0.3kg]
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
Happy belated birthday Biscuit!
In reply to biscuit:
Bad luck on the finger biscuit (certainly puts my moping into perspective but I'm impressed at you still repeating V6 despite that.
Hope the recovery goes well and it's good you have a plan to occupy the time until it's healed again.
Bad luck on the finger biscuit (certainly puts my moping into perspective but I'm impressed at you still repeating V6 despite that.
Hope the recovery goes well and it's good you have a plan to occupy the time until it's healed again.
In reply to biscuit:
Sorry about the finger, I think it was Yuji Hirayama you are thinking about, very positive attitude. And it's right, it's silly to let injuries get you down, just take it as you are, a serendipitous opportunity to become a better rounded climber and pay attention to other things in your life. There's so much more to climbing than strong fingers and chasing a big number, sometimes I think that obscures the fun of why we started climbing.
Sorry about the finger, I think it was Yuji Hirayama you are thinking about, very positive attitude. And it's right, it's silly to let injuries get you down, just take it as you are, a serendipitous opportunity to become a better rounded climber and pay attention to other things in your life. There's so much more to climbing than strong fingers and chasing a big number, sometimes I think that obscures the fun of why we started climbing.
In reply to biscuit:
Hi Biscuit that's shit luck mate.
As you may have previously heard I am no starnger to injuries and I have now taken a different apporach to my previous doudrums complete shut off from the sport rest. I learnt this from a mate who has just been sponsored by moon so cranks hard! Initial rest to allow inflammation to go down with at least twice a day cold treatment and stretching and massage but not too agressively as you don't want scar tissue. Then resume climbing after just over a week but only open hand and work on technique but keep the cold therapy going. The main reason I now believe injuries take so long to heal is that we don't stimulate the repair enogh by getting blood into the injurred tissue.
Its weird but i found in the repair process i was climbing harder and there would be mild pain after a lot of open handing bu after ice, staetch and m,assage it was negligible i have just continued like that and now it is almost completely gone. I found that this approach got me more progress from Jan 1st to now than rest from october to the end of december. Complete rest is not the way forward like you say use the time to work your weaknesses and do open handing sessions! I wass back on one armed crimps on the bottom rail on the BM this morning and no pain.
Cold treatment, staetching, massage and open handing technique is the way!
Hi Biscuit that's shit luck mate.
As you may have previously heard I am no starnger to injuries and I have now taken a different apporach to my previous doudrums complete shut off from the sport rest. I learnt this from a mate who has just been sponsored by moon so cranks hard! Initial rest to allow inflammation to go down with at least twice a day cold treatment and stretching and massage but not too agressively as you don't want scar tissue. Then resume climbing after just over a week but only open hand and work on technique but keep the cold therapy going. The main reason I now believe injuries take so long to heal is that we don't stimulate the repair enogh by getting blood into the injurred tissue.
Its weird but i found in the repair process i was climbing harder and there would be mild pain after a lot of open handing bu after ice, staetch and m,assage it was negligible i have just continued like that and now it is almost completely gone. I found that this approach got me more progress from Jan 1st to now than rest from october to the end of december. Complete rest is not the way forward like you say use the time to work your weaknesses and do open handing sessions! I wass back on one armed crimps on the bottom rail on the BM this morning and no pain.
Cold treatment, staetching, massage and open handing technique is the way!
In reply to biscuit:
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.
Back from holiday so a bit of a catch up post for the last couple of weeks.
Week 206
M - rest
T - rest
W - Bouldering @ Castle; Should have been routes but partner didn't make it. Got some blues quickly including a flash. Worked new V6 & 7s in Pen. Very close to Beige V6, will go next time.
T - rest
F - rest
S - Winter skills day out on Cairngorm
S - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
Week 207
M - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
T - rest
W - Bouldering @ Tom Riach; Fairly quick tick of a V5 traverse, then went for some laps on it for a bit of training.
T - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
F - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
S - rest
S - rest
Lots of rest, eating, drinking and snow boarding. Brilliant fun being on the steep bit of a learning curve with a new sport! Linking my turns down red runs and beginning to look for small jumps. Big result with the weather around the Cairngorms last week.
Feeling fresh and keen to get on with the plan now.
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Hall of Mirrors at the Cuttings.
Back from holiday so a bit of a catch up post for the last couple of weeks.
Week 206
M - rest
T - rest
W - Bouldering @ Castle; Should have been routes but partner didn't make it. Got some blues quickly including a flash. Worked new V6 & 7s in Pen. Very close to Beige V6, will go next time.
T - rest
F - rest
S - Winter skills day out on Cairngorm
S - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
Week 207
M - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
T - rest
W - Bouldering @ Tom Riach; Fairly quick tick of a V5 traverse, then went for some laps on it for a bit of training.
T - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
F - Snow boarding on Cairngorm
S - rest
S - rest
Lots of rest, eating, drinking and snow boarding. Brilliant fun being on the steep bit of a learning curve with a new sport! Linking my turns down red runs and beginning to look for small jumps. Big result with the weather around the Cairngorms last week.
Feeling fresh and keen to get on with the plan now.
In reply to biscuit:
Oops, I'd forgotten I'd said I could do this. I'm glad you volunteered!
Upcoming races:
Mighty Deerstalker 10k off road run 19th March
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: climbing Alien Rock. I actually led a route, woohoo! (Yes, it was the easy warm-up 5, but it is interesting that I seem to be retaining at least a bit of a "lead head".)
Tu: cycled home from work 26km
W: 40 minute run at lunchtime 7km.
Th: gym, core and strength. Swam 1000m.
F: rest
Sa: ran 1h30, 14km (actually as run 13 minutes, walk 3 minutes). Was good. My dodgy leg seems to be holding up, so far so good.
Su: swimming Masters' class 1 hour.
Oops, I'd forgotten I'd said I could do this. I'm glad you volunteered!
>
> fimm – big week indeed. I'd be beaten up for a week after that.
Well, you train up to a week like that, and then you get a recovery week like this...> fimm – big week indeed. I'd be beaten up for a week after that.
Upcoming races:
Mighty Deerstalker 10k off road run 19th March
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: climbing Alien Rock. I actually led a route, woohoo! (Yes, it was the easy warm-up 5, but it is interesting that I seem to be retaining at least a bit of a "lead head".)
Tu: cycled home from work 26km
W: 40 minute run at lunchtime 7km.
Th: gym, core and strength. Swam 1000m.
F: rest
Sa: ran 1h30, 14km (actually as run 13 minutes, walk 3 minutes). Was good. My dodgy leg seems to be holding up, so far so good.
Su: swimming Masters' class 1 hour.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks Biscuit, hope the finger healing is going well, also forgot to say get on BM and get other digits strong and you won't notice much difference!
Thanks for the comment but I find the discipline easy once you have a plan! this is what I have learned anyway!
Anyway back to post!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
Week 9 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker), V9 (Sale Gosse)
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, V8
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING PHASE: Strength -
Good strt to the week and then tailed off towards the end as i probably had the inesity too high and fatigues too quickly, lessons to be lerned from this are too keep only 2 max pulls session on a strength week as they are hard to recover from! Also introduced rings on Thursday as an add on to core stuff but now been suffering with DOM's till today thats 4 days + recovery oops! On the plus side finger strength seems to be going up and saw progress each day, my recovery in this area seems to be better than the pull muscles, strange!
Been working on flexibility and this has made me aware of how poor my shoulder flexibility is so need to focus on getting better ROM in shoulders. Introduced the Bolton complex and mostly find it fine apart from the squats which I struggle to keep my heels down and to press the weight above my head have dropped to just 2.5kg! but upped volume to three sets. They are hard but good warm up!
Bodyweight has dropped again and Iseem to have settled in the 75kg bracket which is nice want to get to 74kg and then I will try and settle there! Not been great with diet this week too much up and down on calories.
And then on Friday Injury alert popped my left hamstring at the knee (actually felt a pop) on aggressive heel hook, damn and blast, knee has been sore for last three days now and looks like a long termer so no heel hooking for me for a while, Treatment will be rest stretching and hot and cold gets, anyone any other ideas ( I am not sitting in an ice bath though)
Did three ARC sessions
1 good strength session and 1 poor and 1 abandoned half way due to knee!
One run this week for 30 mins, running is feeling easier is this due to being lighter?
Pleased myself with doing a planche and front lever session and seemed to have improved despite not training it for eons!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 2.5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
This Weeks Goals:
Back into the uploading phase (strength 2 primary, Anaerobic Muscle Endurance Secondary) again so the next two weeks I am going to coninue to gradually get knackered as I up volume to hit fatigue peak lets see if I can get it right though last week probably over did it!
- 3 max hangs sessions on BM, 3 One arm pyramid sessions, 3x strength bouldering on 45 board, 3 x ancap sessions, 3 core/push sessions, 3 Bolton complex session building up to 5kg eA by Friday. 1 x Strength session on rings.
Continue the fatigue!!!
Weight: 75.2kg
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks Biscuit, hope the finger healing is going well, also forgot to say get on BM and get other digits strong and you won't notice much difference!
Thanks for the comment but I find the discipline easy once you have a plan! this is what I have learned anyway!
Anyway back to post!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
Week 9 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker), V9 (Sale Gosse)
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, V8
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING PHASE: Strength -
Good strt to the week and then tailed off towards the end as i probably had the inesity too high and fatigues too quickly, lessons to be lerned from this are too keep only 2 max pulls session on a strength week as they are hard to recover from! Also introduced rings on Thursday as an add on to core stuff but now been suffering with DOM's till today thats 4 days + recovery oops! On the plus side finger strength seems to be going up and saw progress each day, my recovery in this area seems to be better than the pull muscles, strange!
Been working on flexibility and this has made me aware of how poor my shoulder flexibility is so need to focus on getting better ROM in shoulders. Introduced the Bolton complex and mostly find it fine apart from the squats which I struggle to keep my heels down and to press the weight above my head have dropped to just 2.5kg! but upped volume to three sets. They are hard but good warm up!
Bodyweight has dropped again and Iseem to have settled in the 75kg bracket which is nice want to get to 74kg and then I will try and settle there! Not been great with diet this week too much up and down on calories.
And then on Friday Injury alert popped my left hamstring at the knee (actually felt a pop) on aggressive heel hook, damn and blast, knee has been sore for last three days now and looks like a long termer so no heel hooking for me for a while, Treatment will be rest stretching and hot and cold gets, anyone any other ideas ( I am not sitting in an ice bath though)
Did three ARC sessions
1 good strength session and 1 poor and 1 abandoned half way due to knee!
One run this week for 30 mins, running is feeling easier is this due to being lighter?
Pleased myself with doing a planche and front lever session and seemed to have improved despite not training it for eons!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 2.5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
This Weeks Goals:
Back into the uploading phase (strength 2 primary, Anaerobic Muscle Endurance Secondary) again so the next two weeks I am going to coninue to gradually get knackered as I up volume to hit fatigue peak lets see if I can get it right though last week probably over did it!
- 3 max hangs sessions on BM, 3 One arm pyramid sessions, 3x strength bouldering on 45 board, 3 x ancap sessions, 3 core/push sessions, 3 Bolton complex session building up to 5kg eA by Friday. 1 x Strength session on rings.
Continue the fatigue!!!
Weight: 75.2kg
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to anyone:
Is the Bolton Complex written down somewhere online? I've had a quick search of this site and ukbouldering and couldn't find it.
Many thanks.
Is the Bolton Complex written down somewhere online? I've had a quick search of this site and ukbouldering and couldn't find it.
Many thanks.
In reply to Eagle River: The Bolton Complex is something Serpico invented. Because he's from Bolton and has Complexes.
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to Eagle River:
I have it on my google docs under resources!
PM me your email and I will give you permission to view!
Regards
Gordon
I have it on my google docs under resources!
PM me your email and I will give you permission to view!
Regards
Gordon
In reply to Goonie:
Everyone who is doing the Bolton complex - are you all managing overhead squats? I find this is the 'stopper', shoulder flexibility definitely limits holding dumbbells directly overhead when at the bottom of the squat. Is this just me? I've tried it with a broomstick and very light dumbbells. Unwilling to progress to weights of note until I get the technique down. Doing Javorek complex #1 at the moment but the Bolton complex looks like it complements climbing better. Any thoughts?
Everyone who is doing the Bolton complex - are you all managing overhead squats? I find this is the 'stopper', shoulder flexibility definitely limits holding dumbbells directly overhead when at the bottom of the squat. Is this just me? I've tried it with a broomstick and very light dumbbells. Unwilling to progress to weights of note until I get the technique down. Doing Javorek complex #1 at the moment but the Bolton complex looks like it complements climbing better. Any thoughts?
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
I expect it to expose all kinds of weakness and instability for me. Can't wait!
I expect it to expose all kinds of weakness and instability for me. Can't wait!
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Yep I am the same find most of it OK but the squats a killer probably about ten to fifteen degrees off of vertical with overhead squats but slowly improving as last week I couldnt even keep my heels down! Just persevere as it is to work the climber shoulder imflexibility/imbalance. I am up to a 2.5 kg in each hand (ladyweights!) very masculine and i am shaking like a leaf trying to force my arms straight my wife finds it hillarious as she can do them easily WTF!
Yep I am the same find most of it OK but the squats a killer probably about ten to fifteen degrees off of vertical with overhead squats but slowly improving as last week I couldnt even keep my heels down! Just persevere as it is to work the climber shoulder imflexibility/imbalance. I am up to a 2.5 kg in each hand (ladyweights!) very masculine and i am shaking like a leaf trying to force my arms straight my wife finds it hillarious as she can do them easily WTF!
In reply to Goonie + everyone:
there are whole threads devoted to it on the other channel. Some people have been keeling over backwards and all sorts ;0)
Certainly highlights shoulder flexibility issues amongst others.
there are whole threads devoted to it on the other channel. Some people have been keeling over backwards and all sorts ;0)
Certainly highlights shoulder flexibility issues amongst others.
In reply to AJM:
Ah, that makes sense. I guess if you've only got one day left you might as well throw the kitchen sink at it!
I've always suffered skin-wise re: soreness after 2.5, but others are probably/certainly! more hardy than me.
Ah, that makes sense. I guess if you've only got one day left you might as well throw the kitchen sink at it!
I've always suffered skin-wise re: soreness after 2.5, but others are probably/certainly! more hardy than me.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks all,
Another slow week for me, only climbed twice this week but did manage my ambition of a different wall for one of them. would welcome regulars at the castle to comment on their thoughts - does it jump up at v5/6 or just change style to power, or is it just me?
Tues: Indoors (reg wall) - routes & bouldering - Led upto 7a, tried routes which I hadn't for a while. Made a change, maybe a starting point for tomorrow - repeat all routes at the wall. L to Right. Shake it up a bit.
Thurs: Castle - Bouldering: On sight most problems upto V3/4 including the black circuit stuff. V5/6 and blue circuit got about half the problems and mostly not on first go. Tried one or two harder but found the upper ranges of what I tried was that extra step up. Didn't really rest between tries or problems either though.
Leading - Steve Mac routes. Was powered out as at the end of the session. Had to rest on both 6c+'s.
Brings me to this week:
aim - 2 climbing sessions indoors and sunday outdoors.
Keep mojo treading water, eat less rubbish & pull hard enough to ache the next day.
Thanks, Kev.
Thanks all,
Another slow week for me, only climbed twice this week but did manage my ambition of a different wall for one of them. would welcome regulars at the castle to comment on their thoughts - does it jump up at v5/6 or just change style to power, or is it just me?
Tues: Indoors (reg wall) - routes & bouldering - Led upto 7a, tried routes which I hadn't for a while. Made a change, maybe a starting point for tomorrow - repeat all routes at the wall. L to Right. Shake it up a bit.
Thurs: Castle - Bouldering: On sight most problems upto V3/4 including the black circuit stuff. V5/6 and blue circuit got about half the problems and mostly not on first go. Tried one or two harder but found the upper ranges of what I tried was that extra step up. Didn't really rest between tries or problems either though.
Leading - Steve Mac routes. Was powered out as at the end of the session. Had to rest on both 6c+'s.
Brings me to this week:
aim - 2 climbing sessions indoors and sunday outdoors.
Keep mojo treading water, eat less rubbish & pull hard enough to ache the next day.
Thanks, Kev.
In reply to Kevster:
If the Steve mac routes at the castle are anything like the Steve mac routes at Leeds wall then in the 6's - they don't bear much resemblance their equivalent 6's in reality, or to previous 6's at that location.
They're very well set, very interesting and different in a good way, but IMHO I think the grading is out at Leeds for most of the set that he did + another chap whose name I forget ( sorry ).
If the Steve mac routes at the castle are anything like the Steve mac routes at Leeds wall then in the 6's - they don't bear much resemblance their equivalent 6's in reality, or to previous 6's at that location.
They're very well set, very interesting and different in a good way, but IMHO I think the grading is out at Leeds for most of the set that he did + another chap whose name I forget ( sorry ).
In reply to biscuit:
The other channel? If someone could point me at it that'd be great, sounds like it could be a useful part of my shoulder re-hab.
The other channel? If someone could point me at it that'd be great, sounds like it could be a useful part of my shoulder re-hab.
In reply to biscuit: Cheers. I'm definitely more inclined toward off-road racing, it's just occasionally I like to dip my toe into the pool of road running, and far too often I find it's filled with pirrhanas!
Mon: Nothing (a little post HM chaffing to recover from!)
Tue: Steady 10.5k run, pushing the pace for the second half.
Wed: Lunch time run, was meant to be intervals but went out, felt less inclined so did an easy 3.5k. Evening, did the intervals, 8x2mins off c90s rest. Hard effort but felt good.
Thu: 16k twilight run over the Malverns, steady pace. Really pleasant, if a little tricky descending by torchlight.
Fri: c25mins steady Turbo Trainer session.
Sat: 37k cycle around Wetherby area, followed by 7k steady run.
Sun: 13k cycle to cross country, 3.5k of race (pulled out due to ridiculous bowel issues), 21k cycle back.
A generally quite good week. Possibly a little low on the running mileage front, and the frustration of having to pull out of the cross country, but a good amount of decent cycling, and am happy to have established the logistics of getting to Malverns after work aren't too bad.
I've also found a couple of interesting races that should serve as good 3 Peaks training events; Heptonstall and Exe to Axe. The only issue may be getting to the latter, as it does seem to be in the arse end of nowhere as far as public transport goes, but it's interesting enough for me to work something out.
H is also in the last week of a course at Harrogate Wall, so hopefully we'll be able to get out climbing of weekends before too long, which will be good.
Mon: Nothing (a little post HM chaffing to recover from!)
Tue: Steady 10.5k run, pushing the pace for the second half.
Wed: Lunch time run, was meant to be intervals but went out, felt less inclined so did an easy 3.5k. Evening, did the intervals, 8x2mins off c90s rest. Hard effort but felt good.
Thu: 16k twilight run over the Malverns, steady pace. Really pleasant, if a little tricky descending by torchlight.
Fri: c25mins steady Turbo Trainer session.
Sat: 37k cycle around Wetherby area, followed by 7k steady run.
Sun: 13k cycle to cross country, 3.5k of race (pulled out due to ridiculous bowel issues), 21k cycle back.
A generally quite good week. Possibly a little low on the running mileage front, and the frustration of having to pull out of the cross country, but a good amount of decent cycling, and am happy to have established the logistics of getting to Malverns after work aren't too bad.
I've also found a couple of interesting races that should serve as good 3 Peaks training events; Heptonstall and Exe to Axe. The only issue may be getting to the latter, as it does seem to be in the arse end of nowhere as far as public transport goes, but it's interesting enough for me to work something out.
H is also in the last week of a course at Harrogate Wall, so hopefully we'll be able to get out climbing of weekends before too long, which will be good.
In reply to biscuit:
Oh man, everyone getting injured is making me paranoid.
Hope it gets better soon bud!
Oh man, everyone getting injured is making me paranoid.
Hope it gets better soon bud!
In reply to mattrm:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16911.msg301520.html#msg30152...
It's not that easy to find as the info is in a thread on squatting.
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16911.msg301520.html#msg30152...
It's not that easy to find as the info is in a thread on squatting.
In reply to JimmyKay:
cheers.
it is interesting to see how injuries do all seem to coincide on here.
There if often a spike after about a month of the indoor season and now it seems fingers are giving up. Maybe people pushing it as the outdoor season starts or getting carried away with the good weather and cranking too hard before they've got the technique transition from indoors to outside sorted. leads to feet popping off and fingers pinging everywhere.
> (In reply to biscuit)
>
> Oh man, everyone getting injured is making me paranoid.
>
> Hope it gets better soon bud!
>
> Oh man, everyone getting injured is making me paranoid.
>
> Hope it gets better soon bud!
cheers.
it is interesting to see how injuries do all seem to coincide on here.
There if often a spike after about a month of the indoor season and now it seems fingers are giving up. Maybe people pushing it as the outdoor season starts or getting carried away with the good weather and cranking too hard before they've got the technique transition from indoors to outside sorted. leads to feet popping off and fingers pinging everywhere.
In reply to biscuit:
Ahh, I see what you mean by the 'other channel' now. Interesting read. Not sure if I'll do it all but I'm going to try some of that in my rehab work.
> (In reply to mattrm)
>
> It's not that easy to find as the info is in a thread on squatting.
>
> It's not that easy to find as the info is in a thread on squatting.
Ahh, I see what you mean by the 'other channel' now. Interesting read. Not sure if I'll do it all but I'm going to try some of that in my rehab work.
In reply to richardh:
Ta Richardh,
My enquiry was more with regards to the bouldering at the castle (which seemed for me to suddenly step up at V5/6 - is it a power thing?), though, I do agree that the Ste Mac route 6c+'s - I have climbed easier 7a's. But that may just be individual style, as I have climbed harder ones too. Resting on a 6c+ isn't a suprise for me as around there my on sight skills seem to suddenly dip. I have experienced variation with castle route setting before so also factor in ifs and buts here. I got the impression that their bouldering was more steady.
Steve Mac must have issues like all route setters who set below their normal level of operation with differentiating the grades. Those stopper moves/sequences just don't stop the 9a climbers. What does amaze me about SM is that he route sets 3 days a week or so. I would struggle doing that! He must be ubber motivated/driven! Still, I enjoyed and they stretched me. so happy days there!
Cheers, K
Ta Richardh,
My enquiry was more with regards to the bouldering at the castle (which seemed for me to suddenly step up at V5/6 - is it a power thing?), though, I do agree that the Ste Mac route 6c+'s - I have climbed easier 7a's. But that may just be individual style, as I have climbed harder ones too. Resting on a 6c+ isn't a suprise for me as around there my on sight skills seem to suddenly dip. I have experienced variation with castle route setting before so also factor in ifs and buts here. I got the impression that their bouldering was more steady.
Steve Mac must have issues like all route setters who set below their normal level of operation with differentiating the grades. Those stopper moves/sequences just don't stop the 9a climbers. What does amaze me about SM is that he route sets 3 days a week or so. I would struggle doing that! He must be ubber motivated/driven! Still, I enjoyed and they stretched me. so happy days there!
Cheers, K
In reply to biscuit:
Biscuit - you're right, I'm not really training at the moment, just turning up at the wall and doing some climbing. My time on the rock rings is starting to bear some fruit in terms of finger strength but I'm starting to think the thing I most need to focus on at the wall is just doing more routes - so general endurance. After 5-6 routes 9inc warmups) I'm pretty knackered! If the hardest route I can lead clean (after practice) is ~6b, then would a good endurance session be to try and lead all the 4's and 5's (probably ~10 routes at Harlow) - too easy?
I'm off to BMC MAsterclass with Lucy Creamer this week will see what she recommends!
Mon - Karate session
Tue - Repeaters 1min x 3
Wed-
Thu - Routes at wall 1x4 (warm-up), 2 x 5/5+, 1x6a (rested on onsite then completed), 2 x 6a+ topropes - knackered. Game over..
Fri-
Sat-
Sun-
Biscuit - you're right, I'm not really training at the moment, just turning up at the wall and doing some climbing. My time on the rock rings is starting to bear some fruit in terms of finger strength but I'm starting to think the thing I most need to focus on at the wall is just doing more routes - so general endurance. After 5-6 routes 9inc warmups) I'm pretty knackered! If the hardest route I can lead clean (after practice) is ~6b, then would a good endurance session be to try and lead all the 4's and 5's (probably ~10 routes at Harlow) - too easy?
I'm off to BMC MAsterclass with Lucy Creamer this week will see what she recommends!
Mon - Karate session
Tue - Repeaters 1min x 3
Wed-
Thu - Routes at wall 1x4 (warm-up), 2 x 5/5+, 1x6a (rested on onsite then completed), 2 x 6a+ topropes - knackered. Game over..
Fri-
Sat-
Sun-
In reply to biscuit:
Cheers biscuit, nice one for taking the mantle back. Well done on the V6 and happy birthday.
a week of improvement for me. 2x V6 and 1x V7 - though it would be good to be getting them a bit quicker, this is largely where I want to be this year with the bouldering - need to maintain & consolidate this level of strength while working on route fitness a bit.
STG
March training goals: 3xV7, solid at getting v6 in a session. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 6x 4x4. Complete 7a indoor routes pyramid (ticked: 2x6b+)
Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
Indoor projects: Arch: black 7c, red v7 done, Castle: blue (v7?) done and orange (v6?) on wave.
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Goals for last week:
Maintenance - Stretching RC x5 tick x5& Psoas x5 tick x5, RC strengthening x3 tick x2, scapular wall slides x3 tick x3 prone cobras x3 tick x3 wrist curls+reverse x3. tick x1. 19/22 quite good but maintenance goals should really be 100%
1x endurance session (intervals on envy for now) tick, 1x 4x4 tick, 2x performance boulder tick x2, attempts on black 7c.tick 1xtentative campus or max hangs. tick 6/6.
Get out on rock? work something short and 7b+ ish ideally with ~V6 moves. Aim to do all moves. fail
M: maintenance: stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (RC/theraband)
T: Castle, boulder. Movement practice. Poor warm up - low power. Attempts on V6 and V7 in pen - little progress, frustrating. Campus - 1-3-5 x2 L and R. Offset pull ups - L1R3 on medium and large. Breakthrough on range of movement on L3R1/large - can now flip lower arm over into a press. maintenance: stretching (RC & Psoas) strengthening (prone cobras 62s/4 sets)
W: Castle, boulder. movement practice. Ticked beige V6 in pen. More work on grey V7, did it from a stand but couldn't link in the annoyingly snatchy start move. Laps on Envy - up to lapping the pumpy 4c indefinitely? and 4x laps on the V1. Maintenance - stretching (RC & psoas) strengthening (prone cobras 70s/4 scapular wall slides 15/3)
T: Arch - free boulder. warm up - 6b, 7a in tunnel, 7b in 2 sections. Problems V0-3. Ticked green V6 (new room). Lots of time working black 7c. 3 solid attempts, got it in overlapping sections from start->crux and start of tunnel->end. Maintenance - stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (Prone cobras 89s/4 Scap wall slides 21/3)
F: Weights: Javorek DB#1 x2. Bicep curls. Weighted pull ups. Bent over lateral DB raise. Maintenance - stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (RC scarecrows 30/3, prone cobras 122s/4, scap wall slides 24/3)
S: Castle boulder. Mezz - warmed up to V3. Ticked grey V7 and crimpy Blue V5? in pen. Wave - nearly repeated blue v7? (got to last move) - encouraging it's not a fluke. Working purple v6? - did all moves in 2 overlapping sections. Offset pull ups - good ROM, able to touch shoulder to top rung on 1/3 and 1/4. Laddering - can do 1-4-6 on large rungs but not quite 1-3-6. Be intereresting to see if the range of movement improvements on offset pull ups come through in the campussing. Planks (149s/3), push ups (41/4)
S: Arch - boulder. 3xV5, 4xV4 etc mostly repeats. Black 7c - move 10 to end on best go (3 more moves added on to start) - got crux a bit more wired. 4x4s - poor quality, set bar a bit too high. (v4v3v3(v5), v4v3v3v4, v4(v3)(v3), v4v3(v4)(v3). 1 arm locks with theraband assist R+L 4x. Ab wheel roll outs - 3x5. Ab wheel flys w/ theraband assist - 3x5. Weights - Javorek DB#1 x2. Bicep curls, bent over lateral DB raise, bent over rows, tricep kickback. maintenance - stretches (RC, Psoas, glutes & hamstrings)
Goals for this week:
Maintenance - 5x stretching (RC & Psoas), 3x RC strengthening, 3x wrist curls + reverse, 3x prone cobras, 3x scap wall slides.
Strength - 2 sessions incl bicep curls. Start doing something about pathetic tricep strength. 2x core sessions. Campus x1, (max hangs x1), hvy finger rolls.
Climbing - attempts on black 7c/arch. 1x V6. Attempt purple v6? on wave. 2x 4x4 session. Set crimp circuit.
Get out on rock? work something short and 7b+ ish ideally with ~V6 moves. Aim to do all moves.
Cheers biscuit, nice one for taking the mantle back. Well done on the V6 and happy birthday.
a week of improvement for me. 2x V6 and 1x V7 - though it would be good to be getting them a bit quicker, this is largely where I want to be this year with the bouldering - need to maintain & consolidate this level of strength while working on route fitness a bit.
STG
March training goals: 3xV7, solid at getting v6 in a session. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 6x 4x4. Complete 7a indoor routes pyramid (ticked: 2x6b+)
Weight back to 63.5kg by Apr 30
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. 7b and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire
Indoor projects: Arch: black 7c, red v7 done, Castle: blue (v7?) done and orange (v6?) on wave.
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
Goals for last week:
Maintenance - Stretching RC x5 tick x5& Psoas x5 tick x5, RC strengthening x3 tick x2, scapular wall slides x3 tick x3 prone cobras x3 tick x3 wrist curls+reverse x3. tick x1. 19/22 quite good but maintenance goals should really be 100%
1x endurance session (intervals on envy for now) tick, 1x 4x4 tick, 2x performance boulder tick x2, attempts on black 7c.tick 1xtentative campus or max hangs. tick 6/6.
Get out on rock? work something short and 7b+ ish ideally with ~V6 moves. Aim to do all moves. fail
M: maintenance: stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (RC/theraband)
T: Castle, boulder. Movement practice. Poor warm up - low power. Attempts on V6 and V7 in pen - little progress, frustrating. Campus - 1-3-5 x2 L and R. Offset pull ups - L1R3 on medium and large. Breakthrough on range of movement on L3R1/large - can now flip lower arm over into a press. maintenance: stretching (RC & Psoas) strengthening (prone cobras 62s/4 sets)
W: Castle, boulder. movement practice. Ticked beige V6 in pen. More work on grey V7, did it from a stand but couldn't link in the annoyingly snatchy start move. Laps on Envy - up to lapping the pumpy 4c indefinitely? and 4x laps on the V1. Maintenance - stretching (RC & psoas) strengthening (prone cobras 70s/4 scapular wall slides 15/3)
T: Arch - free boulder. warm up - 6b, 7a in tunnel, 7b in 2 sections. Problems V0-3. Ticked green V6 (new room). Lots of time working black 7c. 3 solid attempts, got it in overlapping sections from start->crux and start of tunnel->end. Maintenance - stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (Prone cobras 89s/4 Scap wall slides 21/3)
F: Weights: Javorek DB#1 x2. Bicep curls. Weighted pull ups. Bent over lateral DB raise. Maintenance - stretches (RC & Psoas) strengthening (RC scarecrows 30/3, prone cobras 122s/4, scap wall slides 24/3)
S: Castle boulder. Mezz - warmed up to V3. Ticked grey V7 and crimpy Blue V5? in pen. Wave - nearly repeated blue v7? (got to last move) - encouraging it's not a fluke. Working purple v6? - did all moves in 2 overlapping sections. Offset pull ups - good ROM, able to touch shoulder to top rung on 1/3 and 1/4. Laddering - can do 1-4-6 on large rungs but not quite 1-3-6. Be intereresting to see if the range of movement improvements on offset pull ups come through in the campussing. Planks (149s/3), push ups (41/4)
S: Arch - boulder. 3xV5, 4xV4 etc mostly repeats. Black 7c - move 10 to end on best go (3 more moves added on to start) - got crux a bit more wired. 4x4s - poor quality, set bar a bit too high. (v4v3v3(v5), v4v3v3v4, v4(v3)(v3), v4v3(v4)(v3). 1 arm locks with theraband assist R+L 4x. Ab wheel roll outs - 3x5. Ab wheel flys w/ theraband assist - 3x5. Weights - Javorek DB#1 x2. Bicep curls, bent over lateral DB raise, bent over rows, tricep kickback. maintenance - stretches (RC, Psoas, glutes & hamstrings)
Goals for this week:
Maintenance - 5x stretching (RC & Psoas), 3x RC strengthening, 3x wrist curls + reverse, 3x prone cobras, 3x scap wall slides.
Strength - 2 sessions incl bicep curls. Start doing something about pathetic tricep strength. 2x core sessions. Campus x1, (max hangs x1), hvy finger rolls.
Climbing - attempts on black 7c/arch. 1x V6. Attempt purple v6? on wave. 2x 4x4 session. Set crimp circuit.
Get out on rock? work something short and 7b+ ish ideally with ~V6 moves. Aim to do all moves.
In reply to biscuit:
Welcome back Biscuit.
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: 4k run in about 17:20 - quite quick for me!
Wed: bicep curls, press-ups, planks - am introducing this in an attempt to rest my fingers a bit!
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - frustrating night, nothing above V4 and fingers really hurt!
Fri: rest
Sat: Bouldered at Gardoms for about 45mins at 8am before it started raining - did a couple of warms ups and flashed the V4 mantle on the top roof, my style of problem! started on Marks roof LH, but the heavens opened, retired to Outside for breakfast.
Sun: Family Visit in Yorkshire
Bit of a mixed week, my fingers seem to be permanently sore so I've introduced some other types of exercise to give the fingers a rest. Quite frustrating that over the last 2 weeks I seem to have gone backwards!
Welcome back Biscuit.
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: 4k run in about 17:20 - quite quick for me!
Wed: bicep curls, press-ups, planks - am introducing this in an attempt to rest my fingers a bit!
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - frustrating night, nothing above V4 and fingers really hurt!
Fri: rest
Sat: Bouldered at Gardoms for about 45mins at 8am before it started raining - did a couple of warms ups and flashed the V4 mantle on the top roof, my style of problem! started on Marks roof LH, but the heavens opened, retired to Outside for breakfast.
Sun: Family Visit in Yorkshire
Bit of a mixed week, my fingers seem to be permanently sore so I've introduced some other types of exercise to give the fingers a rest. Quite frustrating that over the last 2 weeks I seem to have gone backwards!
In reply to biscuit:
Aims, as requested: A vaguely reasonable time in the Stratford (road) Marathon, early May, followed in fairly quick succession by some more-fun stuff: Duddon, a low-key hilly off road marathon around Malvern, then possibly Rhinogs.
Step back week this week, so reps with a club on Saturday, which makes step back weeks harder than long-run ones.
M: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat followed by an excellent bacon bap and complementary filter coffee at the Picnic Basket. PM, 3.3 mile run road, minor hill
T: AM, another bacon bap and complementary filter coffee, courtesy of the Picnic Basket. PM, 3.3 mile run road, minor hill
W: AM, same again, from the courteous and friendly staff at the Picnic Basket. PM, 4.5 mile run road, minor hill
T:
F: 9.5 mile road run, minor hills, pace
S: 40 mins hill reps and pace, off-road, plus wupdown, about 9 miles total
S: 12 miles road run, minor hills, easy. Can't wait for tomorrow's breakfast at the Picnic Basket
I am now a sponsored runner having been asked to join TeamPB - the athletic arm of Nottingham's finest cake and sandwich shop (just by the railway station, open all hours, ring for a quote on external catering).
Aims, as requested: A vaguely reasonable time in the Stratford (road) Marathon, early May, followed in fairly quick succession by some more-fun stuff: Duddon, a low-key hilly off road marathon around Malvern, then possibly Rhinogs.
Step back week this week, so reps with a club on Saturday, which makes step back weeks harder than long-run ones.
M: AM, 4.3 mile run road flat followed by an excellent bacon bap and complementary filter coffee at the Picnic Basket. PM, 3.3 mile run road, minor hill
T: AM, another bacon bap and complementary filter coffee, courtesy of the Picnic Basket. PM, 3.3 mile run road, minor hill
W: AM, same again, from the courteous and friendly staff at the Picnic Basket. PM, 4.5 mile run road, minor hill
T:
F: 9.5 mile road run, minor hills, pace
S: 40 mins hill reps and pace, off-road, plus wupdown, about 9 miles total
S: 12 miles road run, minor hills, easy. Can't wait for tomorrow's breakfast at the Picnic Basket
I am now a sponsored runner having been asked to join TeamPB - the athletic arm of Nottingham's finest cake and sandwich shop (just by the railway station, open all hours, ring for a quote on external catering).
In reply to Kevster:
This is the good old castle grading, often I flash V4 but then struggle on anything harder. There does seem to be a definite step up to V5 and V6. About 2 months ago I could do 3 or 4 of the V5's, but this month I am yet to find one I can do. At the arch I'm climbing V6!
This is the good old castle grading, often I flash V4 but then struggle on anything harder. There does seem to be a definite step up to V5 and V6. About 2 months ago I could do 3 or 4 of the V5's, but this month I am yet to find one I can do. At the arch I'm climbing V6!
In reply to biscuit:
Been out in the costa B, so:
M - climbing
T - climbing
W - via ferrata
T - gorge walk
F - climbing
S - climbing
Back to the swimming now.
Been out in the costa B, so:
M - climbing
T - climbing
W - via ferrata
T - gorge walk
F - climbing
S - climbing
Back to the swimming now.
In reply to biscuit:
Hello! Thanks biscuit. I think the ab wheels are great (we’ve got two so can also roll out to a crucifix position), very handy, very intense. You have to watch your lower back with them though, any lapse in form would give you a sore back very quickly.
Mon – Rest.
Tues – Castle. Insanely busy. Went home and did fingerboard instead.
Wedns – Arch. 3x V3, 2x V4, 1x V5. Frenchies and offset pullups.
Thurs – Arch. 1x V3. Working V5s and V6s. Hammered at end of session.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Castle. 1x V3. 5x new blacks. Fingertip pullups. Highlight of my week – I can hang the monos on the beastmaker at the wall. Clearly I need more excitement in my life.
Sun – Arch. 1x V5, 1x V3. Ab wheel, planks and pressups.
Hello! Thanks biscuit. I think the ab wheels are great (we’ve got two so can also roll out to a crucifix position), very handy, very intense. You have to watch your lower back with them though, any lapse in form would give you a sore back very quickly.
Mon – Rest.
Tues – Castle. Insanely busy. Went home and did fingerboard instead.
Wedns – Arch. 3x V3, 2x V4, 1x V5. Frenchies and offset pullups.
Thurs – Arch. 1x V3. Working V5s and V6s. Hammered at end of session.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Castle. 1x V3. 5x new blacks. Fingertip pullups. Highlight of my week – I can hang the monos on the beastmaker at the wall. Clearly I need more excitement in my life.
Sun – Arch. 1x V5, 1x V3. Ab wheel, planks and pressups.
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Yeah cheers. Got one on order but tried last night with a dumbell to roll on. Not ideal but got the idea. can nearly get my chin on the ground from kneeling with good form.
Found this site:
http://www.beastskills.com/tutorials/tutorials/37
got some great ideas for progression for ab wheels, 1 arm pull ups and planche type exercises. Not climbing related but i like the progression information.
Yeah cheers. Got one on order but tried last night with a dumbell to roll on. Not ideal but got the idea. can nearly get my chin on the ground from kneeling with good form.
Found this site:
http://www.beastskills.com/tutorials/tutorials/37
got some great ideas for progression for ab wheels, 1 arm pull ups and planche type exercises. Not climbing related but i like the progression information.
In reply to biscuit:
Good stuff - sounds like you have stronger abs than me Saw somewhere recommended that a good progression was to roll out from standing but up an incline? Not sure if that was the beast skills website (which I have been meaning to have a proper look at for ages) or somewhere else.
Commiserations on the finger btw, like the attitude though... and congrats on the V6!
Good stuff - sounds like you have stronger abs than me Saw somewhere recommended that a good progression was to roll out from standing but up an incline? Not sure if that was the beast skills website (which I have been meaning to have a proper look at for ages) or somewhere else.
Commiserations on the finger btw, like the attitude though... and congrats on the V6!
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Beast Either of the mono holds on mine are a long way off yet.
Biscuit, shall I start next weeks thread, or did you want to do it? Easy either way really but thought I should check - I only asked for the one week but I'm equally happy for you to keep going if you want.
> Highlight of my week – I can hang the monos on the beastmaker at the wall. Clearly I need more excitement in my life.
Beast Either of the mono holds on mine are a long way off yet.
Biscuit, shall I start next weeks thread, or did you want to do it? Easy either way really but thought I should check - I only asked for the one week but I'm equally happy for you to keep going if you want.
In reply to AJM:
I haven't even got round to trying the mono's :0)
You are more than welcome to have it back if that's OK ? You've been doing a sterling job and my time is limited at the moment due to our border collie pup alfie who is adorable but bloody hard work.
> (In reply to Curious Yellow)
>
> [...]
>
> Beast Either of the mono holds on mine are a long way off yet.
>
> Biscuit, shall I start next weeks thread, or did you want to do it? Easy either way really but thought I should check - I only asked for the one week but I'm equally happy for you to keep going if you want.
>
> [...]
>
> Beast Either of the mono holds on mine are a long way off yet.
>
> Biscuit, shall I start next weeks thread, or did you want to do it? Easy either way really but thought I should check - I only asked for the one week but I'm equally happy for you to keep going if you want.
I haven't even got round to trying the mono's :0)
You are more than welcome to have it back if that's OK ? You've been doing a sterling job and my time is limited at the moment due to our border collie pup alfie who is adorable but bloody hard work.
In reply to biscuit:
Well, I've not tried mine either, but given that it would require me to be pretty comfy on the shallow 2-finger pockets on the bottom rung to even consider it, and I'm nowhere close to those, I've guessed.....
Yeah, fine to start it up next week. Have a month or so until the next trip, at which point I shall be on the hunt for volunteers once more
Well, I've not tried mine either, but given that it would require me to be pretty comfy on the shallow 2-finger pockets on the bottom rung to even consider it, and I'm nowhere close to those, I've guessed.....
Yeah, fine to start it up next week. Have a month or so until the next trip, at which point I shall be on the hunt for volunteers once more
In reply to viking:
Fair enough for the step up in dificulty opinion there, I'm going again tomorrow, so may try a few of the tougher offerings. I may also pay more attention to achieved grade to see if I can better it in future there.
Never climbed the Arch.
Cheers! Kev
Fair enough for the step up in dificulty opinion there, I'm going again tomorrow, so may try a few of the tougher offerings. I may also pay more attention to achieved grade to see if I can better it in future there.
Never climbed the Arch.
Cheers! Kev
In reply to sammycolon:
OOps, that's a Kevster reply, not Sammy's, whose computer I am using.
OOps, that's a Kevster reply, not Sammy's, whose computer I am using.
In reply to sammycolon:
Hi Kev, I also will be at the castle tomorrow. Give us a shout and I will try to direct you to some of the more do-able problems. FWIW I also think there is a 'step up' round about V5-6, on some of the harder grade problems the difficulty seems only very loosely correlated to the number on the tag. I've seen V7's that are quite do-able for punters like myself and V7's that are utterly impossible even by the local beasts.
Arch is worth going to, and I think the grades are more consistent.
Hi Kev, I also will be at the castle tomorrow. Give us a shout and I will try to direct you to some of the more do-able problems. FWIW I also think there is a 'step up' round about V5-6, on some of the harder grade problems the difficulty seems only very loosely correlated to the number on the tag. I've seen V7's that are quite do-able for punters like myself and V7's that are utterly impossible even by the local beasts.
Arch is worth going to, and I think the grades are more consistent.
In reply to biscuit:
cheers
not doing much training atm but am managing to get outside climbing...went to froggatt, stanage plantation and burbage south over the wknd...really good days out...done a couple more v3 6a's ....really happy
cheers
not doing much training atm but am managing to get outside climbing...went to froggatt, stanage plantation and burbage south over the wknd...really good days out...done a couple more v3 6a's ....really happy
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Ta Nick,
I'll be the one falling off the V5 & 6's! I'll be there from about 5. k
Ta Nick,
I'll be the one falling off the V5 & 6's! I'll be there from about 5. k
In reply to biscuit:
Mon - Bouldering home
Tue - Nothing
Wed - Bouldering at wall
Thur - Nothing
Fri - Bouldering home
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Bouldering at wall
Bad week.
Mon - Bouldering home
Tue - Nothing
Wed - Bouldering at wall
Thur - Nothing
Fri - Bouldering home
Sat - Nothing
Sun - Bouldering at wall
Bad week.
In reply to biscuit:
Pretty crap week climbing wise. Had a good training day on Sunday. Really good. First time I've trained since before Spain and I'm still feeling it a little today (thursday). Beastmaker encores with leg raiser-s. Campus boarding and lots of stacked Beastmaker Campus lock-off training. After which I got sucked into trying a couple of problems up to v7. Considering I got very drunk saturday night and had no sleep (worked both sat and sun) I was feeling relatively strong. I'm going to crush diamonds in Portland this weekend.
Pretty crap week climbing wise. Had a good training day on Sunday. Really good. First time I've trained since before Spain and I'm still feeling it a little today (thursday). Beastmaker encores with leg raiser-s. Campus boarding and lots of stacked Beastmaker Campus lock-off training. After which I got sucked into trying a couple of problems up to v7. Considering I got very drunk saturday night and had no sleep (worked both sat and sun) I was feeling relatively strong. I'm going to crush diamonds in Portland this weekend.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Hi Jimmy,
i noticed while searching crags that you'd been to Villanueva del Cauche during your Chorro trip. It's looking like this may become my local crag when we move to Spain. My wife has found the 'dream house' near there, i don't call 1hr from El Chorro a dream but there you go.
Anyway do you rate it ? It looks nice and it's nearer to places like El Torcal, Loja and Archidona so it's not all bad i guess :0)
Hi Jimmy,
i noticed while searching crags that you'd been to Villanueva del Cauche during your Chorro trip. It's looking like this may become my local crag when we move to Spain. My wife has found the 'dream house' near there, i don't call 1hr from El Chorro a dream but there you go.
Anyway do you rate it ? It looks nice and it's nearer to places like El Torcal, Loja and Archidona so it's not all bad i guess :0)
In reply to JimmyKay:
Kevster here.
Yes, I sometimes climb at cambridge, what do you want to know?
I believe it has been reset as of today (friday) though thats what a friend said the wall had texted them.... So probably true.
Bouldering only.
The last set was maybe too biased at the lower grades, though this was known by those in the know so may have been more balanced this time.
Enough to go at for a session or two. Some stuff at most angles. Newly extended too so the holds are generally new too.
Can get V busy in the evenings.
Have fun, mail me if you want to know more. K
Kevster here.
Yes, I sometimes climb at cambridge, what do you want to know?
I believe it has been reset as of today (friday) though thats what a friend said the wall had texted them.... So probably true.
Bouldering only.
The last set was maybe too biased at the lower grades, though this was known by those in the know so may have been more balanced this time.
Enough to go at for a session or two. Some stuff at most angles. Newly extended too so the holds are generally new too.
Can get V busy in the evenings.
Have fun, mail me if you want to know more. K
In reply to biscuit:
You're moving over there? My fiancee's parents live around those parts (Fuente del Conde) so I would be VERY interested in any climbing locations you unearth in the area.
P.S. beautiful part of Spain, very jealous!
You're moving over there? My fiancee's parents live around those parts (Fuente del Conde) so I would be VERY interested in any climbing locations you unearth in the area.
P.S. beautiful part of Spain, very jealous!
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