UKC

VIDEO: Brett Perkins climbing Proper Soul (5.14a) on gear

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 UKC Videos 07 Mar 2011
[Brett Perkins climbing Proper Soul (5.14a) on gear]
Brett Perkins climbed the New River Gorge's testpiece Proper Soul (5.14a) on natural gear, placing the protection on lead.

Watch the video: http://www.ukclimbing.com/videos/play.php?i=518
 Tom Last 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

Wow, that was brilliant!

Fair to say that bloke's pretty fit then. I love the way he gives a complete rundown of the gear he uses as if we're all gonna be rushing out to try it
Only slightly disappointed that he didn't top out.
 zhwang 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Southern Man:

Yeah, I really like the rundown. Looks like he could've saved a LOT of weight though if he tried though - he uses chain linked big fat sport draws and tapes, and really thick nylon extenders. I'm sure it would probably make a big difference at the grade of 5.14a.
 Michael Ryan 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

gripping and impressive, not too much gear and bloody hard climbing on some of the best sandstone
 Enty 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

Kin'ell - 8b+

E
 Michael Ryan 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Enty:

looks tenuous as well as pumpy, I just love his southern deadpan drawl at the start
 Enty 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

Yeah. Wierdest bit was the brass nut when there's a bolt 6 inches from his nose.

E
 Michael Ryan 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Enty:
> (In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC)
>
> Yeah. Wierdest bit was the brass nut when there's a bolt 6 inches from his nose.
>
> E

It just shows ya, y'all, that bolts aren't really needed, if you want safe climbing, stick to a top rope, if you've got balls, place your own gear.

Just kiddin' ya'll.

In reply to UKC Videos:

Awesome. I was thinking it didn't look that hard for 8b+ (like I know), but then he got to the hard bit and they started zooming out to show the overall angle......

jcm
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:


Excellent. Reminded me of Causey Quarry!


Chris
 Guy Atkinson 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Southern Man:
> (In reply to UKC Videos)
>
> I love the way he gives a complete rundown of the gear he uses as if we're all gonna be rushing out to try it
>

damn, spoiled the onsight for us!

 imagist 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:
Climbing video not plastered with the orthodox heavy music, the close perspective sounds like he was wearing a radio mic. and the voice over added some relevant interest. Hope this becomes fashionable ........
 Lemony 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Chris Craggs: Armathwaite, surely?

Top vid that.
 Keendan 07 Mar 2011
In reply to imagist:

Agreed. This is just what I enjoy from a climbing vid.
 xican 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

rad.
 Stuart S 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

Brilliant video. We made a trip to the New about 18 months ago after being told by friends who'd been to both that it is better than Kalymnos! Still not been to Kalymnos, but would love to go back to the New - awesome place, such good climbing.
 Olli-C 07 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos: maybe someone needs to teach the americans about double ropes?
 Lemony 07 Mar 2011
In reply to Olli-C: I'm sure there's tons of stuff you could teach the bloke ticking 8b+ on natural gear about climbing. He's pretty much a punter.
 Mi|es 07 Mar 2011
In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

I agree, the start actually looked really easy. Love the look of the rock though, definitely wanna climb some of that
 Jonny2vests 08 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

Excellent. Intense guy, he stared me out in the opening bit, but the climbing was fantastic.

Anyone care to have a stab at an E grade? Endurance 8b+ with probably just enough gear, E8/9?
 James Oswald 08 Mar 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:
Sounds like it could be. Equilibrium is 8bish and if you fall off after the crux - ouch.
Then again I really don't know.
James
 Quarryboy 08 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:

Chris Sharma onsighted this on the bolts.
 Robert Durran 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Olli-C:
> (In reply to UKC Videos) maybe someone needs to teach the americans about double ropes?

Absolutely. Most American climbers, even really good ones, seem to be genuinely unaware of the advantages on many routes (including this one as far as I could see) of double ropes. Double ropes are just not part of their cragging culture.

 jon 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Olli-C:
> (In reply to UKC Videos) maybe someone needs to teach the americans about double ropes?

You're absolutely right. My thoughts exactly. Two skinny ropes and gear on a few quickdraws... no need for all that faff. And as someone else said somewhere, some of his slings were old fat heavy things. I guess he was just trying to make it a tad more difficult for himself.

 jon 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

Snap!
 Chubbard 08 Mar 2011
In reply to jonny2vests: isn't safe 14a E8/E9 so 14a R is E9/E10 and 14a R/X is E10/E11?

Its the best vid I have seen in ages. Palm sweatingly good.
 Robert Durran 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Chubbard:
> (In reply to jonny2vests) isn't safe 14a E8/E9 so 14a R is E9/E10 and 14a R/X is E10/E11?

Maybe knock a grsde or two off that for the possibility of bailing out onto a bolt!
 MJ 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Chubbard:

"isn't safe 14a E8/E9 so 14a R is E9/E10 and 14a R/X is E10/E11?"

He didn't remove the hangers, so those elevated E grades for "danger" are meaningless.
 sebbo 08 Mar 2011
In reply to UKC Videos:
Shut your eyes and you'd swear it was the Sharminator climbing
"AAAGH"..... "YAHHH"

Doesn't seem as appropriate when I'm struggling on a 6b!
 Chubbard 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Robert Durran: a grade or two sounds harsh. You could argue that anyone on an E10 or an E11 could scream for a top rope from their camera crew. 1/2 a grade off for reduced committment? Solid E10 then.
 Robert Durran 08 Mar 2011
In reply to Chubbard:
> (In reply to Robert Durran) a grade or two sounds harsh. You could argue that anyone on an E10 or an E11 could scream for a top rope from their camera crew.

You certainly could!

> 1/2 a grade off for reduced committment?

On the other hand, he is American, and Americans don't have or indeed undrerstand a proper grading system, so the point is probably entirely academic.........
In reply to UKC Videos:

Incidentally, I think the chap's called Brent. And apparently his previous hardest trad lead was 5.12a!

jcm
 Toerag 14 Mar 2011
In reply to Chubbard:
> (In reply to jonny2vests) isn't safe 14a E8/E9 so 14a R is E9/E10 and 14a R/X is E10/E11?

Someone said it equated to 8b(+)....8a trad (Cocoon, Big Issue etc.) equates to E8 6c....so 8b(+) should go at E9 6c maybe? Big grades shouldn't be reserved for dangerous routes.

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