UKC

Chamonix-based climber and photographer Jon Griffith talks us through what he wears for alpine winter climbing, with stunning photographs of his journeys in Patagonia, Chamonix and Alaska.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=3533

In reply to UKC Gear:

I've found, for me, merino wool baselayers cold when I get cold and cannot put out a lot of heat (eg when I'm burnt out). I find them more comfortable generally but when it comes right down to it i find that a wet wool base layer is far cooler than a wet synthetic (plastic) baselayer.

Additionally I find wool takes FAR longer to dry, which i think compounds the issue above.

My two cents anyway.

In reply to UKC Gear:

Great article, well written. I appreciate that you haven't gone too much into the technical details but instead gone straight to the point and explained what's good and why.

I've been using a combination of the Patagonia R1 hoody, nano puff hoody and the ascensionist jkt this winter in the spanish Sierra Nevada and find that it works really well for me.

How do you find wearing the R1 hoody solely as a base layer? I personally don't like wearing anything underneath it as I find the fleece grid interior doesn't slide too well over layers beneath it, especially wool.

I was also thinking of getting the BD Torque gloves recently but in doubt due to their warmth as you mentioned. Have you tried these with a mid-weight liner glove? Do they lose too much dexterity and sort of defeat the purpose of their design, in which case am I best of just sticking with my punishers?

In reply to king_of_gibraltar:

Yeah, I'm likewise with the R1, I only wear it as a baselayer with nowt underneath as I find it restrictive and sticks to anything beneath it.

In reply to UKC Gear: No rucksac suggestions?

In reply to Sean Kelly: I get a bit of an allergic reaction to synthetics after time so I'd always wear something underneath the R1...each to his own I guess.

Rucksack- lightweight options are basically the Marmot Kompressor or Ultra Kompressor, or the Mountain Hardwear Scrambler. Not so sure for something a bit heavier am afraid

In reply to UKC Gear:

"The most important thing here is the fit. An extra clever pocket or new membrane won't count for anything if it makes you look like you have breasts and pulls up out of your harness at every stretched out move".

That's really good advice, and something it has taken me a long time to figure out.

Unfortunately I don't seem to be a standard shape (broad shoulders and short arms) so I have recently started buying made to measure gear, or having off the peg gear altered to fit.

In reply to Jon Griffith: Thanks Jon.

In reply to Jon Griffith:

So you're basically getting everything in a 20-25 litre sack then? I was more thinking for something around 30 litres would be better? I guess there's no bivvy gear in that?

Also do Patagonia still sell the Ascensionist Jacket? It seems like they've stopped doing it.

What do people think of a combo such as a Rab Baltoro Alpine with a Rab Demand Pull-on as a backup hardshell? Would the Demand be too lightweight?

In reply to Jon Griffith:

Does the PHD alpine ultra have a hood and handwarmer pockets as I've been considering this and the PHD Yukon pullover which is warmer and slightly heavier but has a hood?
More for an emergency bivy but not really happy with just down in case it gets a soaking though it looks like it might combine well with the Rab Generator smock and my VR!!

Thanks Ron

In reply to Ron Walker: The Alpine Ultra does not have handwarmer pockets which I found a bit of a pain but then I decided that what I really wanted this thing for was for the weight, and I guess the pockets were a sacrifice you have to accept. It has a hood which goes over your helmet. The Yukon hood does NOT go over a climbing helmet.

mattrm: If you go really really light on the bivy kit then you can fit it in if you are happy to carry your ropes and harness and kit on your person when walking in. Obviously you'll be wearing them anyway when you climb. The Ascentionist is a hard jacket to track down but there are some still around- they stopped and then restarted again last winter. Seems like they've stopped again though...

Jon

In reply to Jon Griffith:


Thanks for the response. As you don't mention it in the article, what bivvy kit do you normally carry?

I do find with Patagonia that they're incredibly seasonal and the supply to the UK is a bit hit and miss. I went to a Patagonia shop in Portland and they had a really good stock of stuff that is often hard to get hold of over here. Next time I'm in America, I might make sure I take a wodge of cash with me specifically to get hold of some Patagonia stuff that is hard to find here.

So does anyone have any thoughts on using a Rab Demand Pull-On as a backup Alpine hardshell?