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Off out climbing now, so stats will be up some time tonight, depending when I get home
In reply to AJM:
Have a good day.
Not much this week due to finger and op.
Eccentrics and cold water treatment done twice a day, walking the dog, a few 1/2 hour jogs and a bit of stretching.
On the plus side sleep issues seem to have been sorted out. I'm getting up before my alarm at the moment as i am getting quality sleep. It feels great and has made me realise that i have not been getting quality sleep for the last 3 1/ years.
Finger is also much improved so i am taking my climbing kit on the house hunting trip to Spain next week. It should be fine for climbing when i get back.
Have a good day.
Not much this week due to finger and op.
Eccentrics and cold water treatment done twice a day, walking the dog, a few 1/2 hour jogs and a bit of stretching.
On the plus side sleep issues seem to have been sorted out. I'm getting up before my alarm at the moment as i am getting quality sleep. It feels great and has made me realise that i have not been getting quality sleep for the last 3 1/ years.
Finger is also much improved so i am taking my climbing kit on the house hunting trip to Spain next week. It should be fine for climbing when i get back.
In reply to AJM: Have a good day!
Monday: Bouldering at The Climbing Hangar for 2:30 hours.
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Usually climb today, but I was resting for a competition on Friday. I did 40 minutes if badminton though if that counts?
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Competition in The Climbing Hangar, I came 29th out of 76. My first ever competition, slightly annoyed I didn't do better, however I've only been training for the last 3 weeks so I think I set my goals too high.
Saturday: Back into the training then after my sort of rest week. Went to Irby Quarry and put. up 1 new route OS Solo. And I lead another one OS first ascent. Both around S-HS but poorly protected because they're sandstone. I also did about 20 minutes of traversing which was quite difficult as I was still tired after the comp!
Sunday: Resting today, lots of coursework!
Monday: Bouldering at The Climbing Hangar for 2:30 hours.
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Usually climb today, but I was resting for a competition on Friday. I did 40 minutes if badminton though if that counts?
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Competition in The Climbing Hangar, I came 29th out of 76. My first ever competition, slightly annoyed I didn't do better, however I've only been training for the last 3 weeks so I think I set my goals too high.
Saturday: Back into the training then after my sort of rest week. Went to Irby Quarry and put. up 1 new route OS Solo. And I lead another one OS first ascent. Both around S-HS but poorly protected because they're sandstone. I also did about 20 minutes of traversing which was quite difficult as I was still tired after the comp!
Sunday: Resting today, lots of coursework!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, Enjoy your climbing
Just bouldering for me this week but back to four sessions a week. The boulder center has just had a shipment of 600 Moon holds and the setters have gone wild with them putting up some steep problems in the 7s. I've managed the easiest ones but am struggling on the medium ones. The staff told me that these are about 7B so I'm quite pleased with the progress I made getting half way up them! I've also started adding a campus session to the training. At the moment I can only manage 1-4-5 with the sixth run looking miles away. Unfortunately all of my foreign sports climbing plans have fallen through. As the local rock is almost exclusively granite, I'll need all the crimp strength I can get.
Goals for next week
Campus 1-4-5 x3 leading with each arm
Get one move further on new 7B with Moon holds
Find a new project on slopers.
2 x sessions with 4x4s (need to identify new problems)
Thanks Andy, Enjoy your climbing
Just bouldering for me this week but back to four sessions a week. The boulder center has just had a shipment of 600 Moon holds and the setters have gone wild with them putting up some steep problems in the 7s. I've managed the easiest ones but am struggling on the medium ones. The staff told me that these are about 7B so I'm quite pleased with the progress I made getting half way up them! I've also started adding a campus session to the training. At the moment I can only manage 1-4-5 with the sixth run looking miles away. Unfortunately all of my foreign sports climbing plans have fallen through. As the local rock is almost exclusively granite, I'll need all the crimp strength I can get.
Goals for next week
Campus 1-4-5 x3 leading with each arm
Get one move further on new 7B with Moon holds
Find a new project on slopers.
2 x sessions with 4x4s (need to identify new problems)
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (6/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Shoulder rehab
W - Shoulder rehab
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Trad climbing on the Gower
S - Shoulder rehab
I've managed to pull all the tendons along the top of my foot after my last run. So I took a few days off. Rather randomly when changing shoes at work I managed to make that tweak considerably worse, so my foot is quite painful now. I've been going all out on icing and resting it. I reckon it'll take at least another couple of weeks before it's better again. I'll have to go swimming next week a couple of times.
On the climbing front, I've had to cancel my final Scotland trip. I don't have enough money. I'm utterly gutted about that. On the upside, I can get a bit of climbing in on the days I'd booked off. The wife is feeling quite sympathetic, so I should be able to get a pass with ease, hopefully I'll get over to Pembroke. Trad climbing on Saturday went well. I stuck to a few routes that I knew and just did easy stuff well. Just wanted a nice easy session with no failures and some good climbing. Good for the head. Hopefully I'll be back up to full strength by April. I'm also hoping to get some Bouldering in. However my mate managed to weld one of my nuts into a crack on her lead, neither of us could get it out, so I'm down a wallnut.
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (6/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 11st 10lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, maintain weight
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Rest
T - Shoulder rehab
W - Shoulder rehab
T - Rest
F - Rest
S - Trad climbing on the Gower
S - Shoulder rehab
I've managed to pull all the tendons along the top of my foot after my last run. So I took a few days off. Rather randomly when changing shoes at work I managed to make that tweak considerably worse, so my foot is quite painful now. I've been going all out on icing and resting it. I reckon it'll take at least another couple of weeks before it's better again. I'll have to go swimming next week a couple of times.
On the climbing front, I've had to cancel my final Scotland trip. I don't have enough money. I'm utterly gutted about that. On the upside, I can get a bit of climbing in on the days I'd booked off. The wife is feeling quite sympathetic, so I should be able to get a pass with ease, hopefully I'll get over to Pembroke. Trad climbing on Saturday went well. I stuck to a few routes that I knew and just did easy stuff well. Just wanted a nice easy session with no failures and some good climbing. Good for the head. Hopefully I'll be back up to full strength by April. I'm also hoping to get some Bouldering in. However my mate managed to weld one of my nuts into a crack on her lead, neither of us could get it out, so I'm down a wallnut.
In reply to AJM: Thanks Andy, hope you had a good day out!
M: Resting from weekend's exertions.
T: Ashtanga yoga for 1.5hrs. Really hard!
W: Routes at the wall: 5, 6a+, 6b+, 6c+ (1 fall), laps - 6b x 2 w/ 3 - 4 mins rest, three laps.
T: Got tattooed, really painful and knackering.
F: Tired.
S: Still wiped out from the week. Walk around the park.
S: Wall, tried 4x4s for the first time. V1+, V1, V3, V2, in differing orders, with approx 3m20s rest. Was pretty wasted by the end of this, tried another set after a 20m wait, no way was that happening!
A good week of training. A couple of sessons of anaerobic training is exactly what I was aiming for. The 4x4 was interesting, it didn't seem that hard when I finished it (quite hard, but not desperate), but it's left me feeling really wasted.
Other things I learned: I am still shit at yoga. Doing anaerobic endurance laps is not the best preparation for getting tattooed. Getting tattooed is not the best choice of recovery activity from climbing.
Hopefully will get another quality training session in this week and a couple of days at Portland on the weekend. Bring it on!
M: Resting from weekend's exertions.
T: Ashtanga yoga for 1.5hrs. Really hard!
W: Routes at the wall: 5, 6a+, 6b+, 6c+ (1 fall), laps - 6b x 2 w/ 3 - 4 mins rest, three laps.
T: Got tattooed, really painful and knackering.
F: Tired.
S: Still wiped out from the week. Walk around the park.
S: Wall, tried 4x4s for the first time. V1+, V1, V3, V2, in differing orders, with approx 3m20s rest. Was pretty wasted by the end of this, tried another set after a 20m wait, no way was that happening!
A good week of training. A couple of sessons of anaerobic training is exactly what I was aiming for. The 4x4 was interesting, it didn't seem that hard when I finished it (quite hard, but not desperate), but it's left me feeling really wasted.
Other things I learned: I am still shit at yoga. Doing anaerobic endurance laps is not the best preparation for getting tattooed. Getting tattooed is not the best choice of recovery activity from climbing.
Hopefully will get another quality training session in this week and a couple of days at Portland on the weekend. Bring it on!
In reply to AJM:
Good week really, getting a good mix of rest and training I think...
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Biked to work (8 miles)
T - First outdoor leading at Tintern Quarry, Wye Valley (good day)
F - Half day canoeing/Fingerboard (repeaters, pull ups, leg raises)
S - Biked to work (8 miles)
S - Rest
Hopefully be getting to the wall this coming week to get on the new problems, so plans for the week will be to keep up riding to work, bouldering (V2/V4 circuit), and one/two fingerboard sessions.
Good week really, getting a good mix of rest and training I think...
M - Rest
T - Rest
W - Biked to work (8 miles)
T - First outdoor leading at Tintern Quarry, Wye Valley (good day)
F - Half day canoeing/Fingerboard (repeaters, pull ups, leg raises)
S - Biked to work (8 miles)
S - Rest
Hopefully be getting to the wall this coming week to get on the new problems, so plans for the week will be to keep up riding to work, bouldering (V2/V4 circuit), and one/two fingerboard sessions.
In reply to AJM:
M:
T: leeds wall, routes, good enough session, nothing spectacular, nearly did the 6c+ when totally battered at the end, good sign of endurance.
W:
T: double booked by the missus, no wall trip, probably overdue rest
S:
S: Malham, season opener for me, bit late but never mind, 2 x Rose, 2 x hartley hare, 2 x puddlejumper, 2 x Dead End job, 2 x Rose. crap conditions in terms of drizzle and cold, but rock held up well, and pleased with 10 sessions as a start, felt strong and 10 is more than usual so good result from PE training over the winter. totally battered now though.
great to get out finally, should up the motivation, good to catch up with the usual suspects at the crag.
M:
T: leeds wall, routes, good enough session, nothing spectacular, nearly did the 6c+ when totally battered at the end, good sign of endurance.
W:
T: double booked by the missus, no wall trip, probably overdue rest
S:
S: Malham, season opener for me, bit late but never mind, 2 x Rose, 2 x hartley hare, 2 x puddlejumper, 2 x Dead End job, 2 x Rose. crap conditions in terms of drizzle and cold, but rock held up well, and pleased with 10 sessions as a start, felt strong and 10 is more than usual so good result from PE training over the winter. totally battered now though.
great to get out finally, should up the motivation, good to catch up with the usual suspects at the crag.
In reply to AJM:
Monday: Bouldering (Home)
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Bouldering (Wall)
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Bouldering (Wall)
Saturday: Bouldering (Home)
Sunday: Almscliff
Glad to finally get outdoors again; but falling off everything at almscliff finished off a frustrating day by falling off the last move on Demon Wall Roof after doing the hard bit and finally getting my heel to stick. Still could be worse. Hope you had a better day .
> Off out climbing now, so stats will be up some time tonight, depending when I get home
Monday: Bouldering (Home)
Tuesday: Rest
Wednesday: Bouldering (Wall)
Thursday: Rest
Friday: Bouldering (Wall)
Saturday: Bouldering (Home)
Sunday: Almscliff
Glad to finally get outdoors again; but falling off everything at almscliff finished off a frustrating day by falling off the last move on Demon Wall Roof after doing the hard bit and finally getting my heel to stick. Still could be worse. Hope you had a better day .
In reply to AJM: Goal - 7B+, 8b.
Mon - rested the skin!
Tues - volume at the Hangar, did a few more things I'd not yet done
Wed - 20 mins fingerboarding
Thurs - rest
Fri - Hangar comp. Did okay, fluffed a couple of things I should have flashed, did some trickier things 2nd go.
Sat - rest, felt surprisingly tired.
Sun - Malham. 7a+ x 2 to warm up, put the clips in Scavenger, had 3 good goes on the TR, got all the moves sorted and some good links. May start redpointing if conditions are favourable next weekend.
Andy F
Mon - rested the skin!
Tues - volume at the Hangar, did a few more things I'd not yet done
Wed - 20 mins fingerboarding
Thurs - rest
Fri - Hangar comp. Did okay, fluffed a couple of things I should have flashed, did some trickier things 2nd go.
Sat - rest, felt surprisingly tired.
Sun - Malham. 7a+ x 2 to warm up, put the clips in Scavenger, had 3 good goes on the TR, got all the moves sorted and some good links. May start redpointing if conditions are favourable next weekend.
Andy F
In reply to AJM:
M - Nothing
T - Bouldering and swimming
W - Swim
T - Swim
F - Ill
S - Ill but did go for a bit of a walk
S - Ill
Now just waiting to get over this bloody cold!
M - Nothing
T - Bouldering and swimming
W - Swim
T - Swim
F - Ill
S - Ill but did go for a bit of a walk
S - Ill
Now just waiting to get over this bloody cold!
In reply to AJM: thanks andy.
Mon-Sat rest
Sun - 5 miles/800' jog on moors.
ill all week. weak, dizzy, nauseous. dragged myself out on sunday and feel a lot better for it. appear to have lost about half a stone somehow.
Mon-Sat rest
Sun - 5 miles/800' jog on moors.
ill all week. weak, dizzy, nauseous. dragged myself out on sunday and feel a lot better for it. appear to have lost about half a stone somehow.
In reply to AJM:
M-Rest from hard weekend. Blisters causing me to walk everywhere on my toes.
T-Still tired, rest.
W-Tape up feet for 6km race over short steep hills. 24:07 Happy with this.
2 hour Boulder session
T-Few press ups just to keep them going.
F-Rest Calves now tired from walking everywhere on my toes
S-Froggatt. Including Brown's Eliminate and another E25b. Possible best day on Grit in terms of performance
S-Required to rest for a student's research tomorrow, looking at differences between climbing and non climbers. Should be interesting.
Thanks AJM
M-Rest from hard weekend. Blisters causing me to walk everywhere on my toes.
T-Still tired, rest.
W-Tape up feet for 6km race over short steep hills. 24:07 Happy with this.
2 hour Boulder session
T-Few press ups just to keep them going.
F-Rest Calves now tired from walking everywhere on my toes
S-Froggatt. Including Brown's Eliminate and another E25b. Possible best day on Grit in terms of performance
S-Required to rest for a student's research tomorrow, looking at differences between climbing and non climbers. Should be interesting.
Thanks AJM
In reply to AJM:
M: 4.5 mile run road flat
T: 4.5 mile run road minor hill
W: 9.2 mile run road minor hills
T:
F: strides and stretches then 10.2 mile run road minor hills pace (Or, actually, about 8.5 pace and the remainder hobble after running into one of those low pointy barrier things for stopping cars driving on the grass. It was dark. Big lump, but responded well to MICE.)
S: 4.3 slow road run with child, minor hills
S: 20 miles run tow-path - ok pace but too much pain
Dysfunctional left hamstring is now more than just a niggle, and is slowing me down. Physio booked for Thursday.
M: 4.5 mile run road flat
T: 4.5 mile run road minor hill
W: 9.2 mile run road minor hills
T:
F: strides and stretches then 10.2 mile run road minor hills pace (Or, actually, about 8.5 pace and the remainder hobble after running into one of those low pointy barrier things for stopping cars driving on the grass. It was dark. Big lump, but responded well to MICE.)
S: 4.3 slow road run with child, minor hills
S: 20 miles run tow-path - ok pace but too much pain
Dysfunctional left hamstring is now more than just a niggle, and is slowing me down. Physio booked for Thursday.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers AJM.
STG (end of march):
Milage and fitness for april trip to tremadog - Tick loads today
MTG end of june:
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+
Onsight E1/E2
Flash Browns eliminate TICK
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
M: Holmfirth circuit 1hr 5 mins. good session repeated a V3 hardest problem so far this year
T: Helping at rokt. Testing problems being set.
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. an old fingery pumpy 6b got done first try towards the end of my session as well. felt good
T: Helping at rokt. Testing problems being set.
F: Holmfirth circuit 2hrs. Great session an old problem finally went after over a year of trying other hard problems repeated. Getting stronger again
S: Rest
S: Froggatt trad. Lead E2 flash I did browns eliminate awesome MTG ticked. E1 and E3 repeat. Soloed onsight HS, S and Vdiff. Solo repeat HVS. Bouldered rpt Font 6A. Great day can't believe I got e2 done for the first time today so psyched
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Absolutely exhausted after a hard week with only 1 rest day. SO psyched to get e2 done (the proper way bottom to top no practise). Now I just need to find one to onsight. can't wait for next week.
Cheers AJM.
STG (end of march):
Milage and fitness for april trip to tremadog - Tick loads today
MTG end of june:
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+
Onsight E1/E2
Flash Browns eliminate TICK
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 7a
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
M: Holmfirth circuit 1hr 5 mins. good session repeated a V3 hardest problem so far this year
T: Helping at rokt. Testing problems being set.
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. an old fingery pumpy 6b got done first try towards the end of my session as well. felt good
T: Helping at rokt. Testing problems being set.
F: Holmfirth circuit 2hrs. Great session an old problem finally went after over a year of trying other hard problems repeated. Getting stronger again
S: Rest
S: Froggatt trad. Lead E2 flash I did browns eliminate awesome MTG ticked. E1 and E3 repeat. Soloed onsight HS, S and Vdiff. Solo repeat HVS. Bouldered rpt Font 6A. Great day can't believe I got e2 done for the first time today so psyched
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Absolutely exhausted after a hard week with only 1 rest day. SO psyched to get e2 done (the proper way bottom to top no practise). Now I just need to find one to onsight. can't wait for next week.
In reply to AJM:
Nothing this week... iced, rested and got massively frustrated.
Started to do some balance exercises towards the end of the week.
Mileage - 0.
Nothing this week... iced, rested and got massively frustrated.
Started to do some balance exercises towards the end of the week.
Mileage - 0.
In reply to andy farnell: I wish I'd of 'fluffed a couple of things' and finished second! Well done Andy!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM.
M - bit of bouldering. FOund it hard, I think due to not doing enough training in the last few weeks. I haven't done enough to rectify that this week!
T - 5 km run and some core exercises.
W - routes. Still feel quite fit - about 15 routes including 3 goes on a 7a, although the hard move at the top eludes me still.
T - drive to North Wales
F - Error of going to LPT, which is largely shady. Froze ourselves to death after 1 route (me) and 2 routes (my boyfriend).
S - Slate. Despite everyone telling me that as a girl, I should love slate, I've never really liked it. Still, led my first E1 of the year, which was a cracking route, and didn't feel much like slate really.
S - rain. Drove home. I'm about to get on the fingerboard, honest...
This week - more training. Aiming for three sesssions and some more running maybe, as I'm turning into a lazy oaf.
Thanks AJM.
M - bit of bouldering. FOund it hard, I think due to not doing enough training in the last few weeks. I haven't done enough to rectify that this week!
T - 5 km run and some core exercises.
W - routes. Still feel quite fit - about 15 routes including 3 goes on a 7a, although the hard move at the top eludes me still.
T - drive to North Wales
F - Error of going to LPT, which is largely shady. Froze ourselves to death after 1 route (me) and 2 routes (my boyfriend).
S - Slate. Despite everyone telling me that as a girl, I should love slate, I've never really liked it. Still, led my first E1 of the year, which was a cracking route, and didn't feel much like slate really.
S - rain. Drove home. I'm about to get on the fingerboard, honest...
This week - more training. Aiming for three sesssions and some more running maybe, as I'm turning into a lazy oaf.
In reply to AJM:
Hopefully error-free this time.
Also, since I'm away (hopefully) this coming weekend, I'm going to be writing next week's stats Thursday night, so if you post after that I may well miss you out. Sorry, but its the only way I can really get the stats done when I'm away at the weekend.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (208) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=450342
Repeat posters -
AJM
TonyB - lack of wall grading can be a bit problematic for measuring performance, can't it, good you've found a way round it
The New NickB - well done on Trafford
grubes - if youre looking at diet/weight Dave Mac has a review of the second version of "Racing Weight" which he seems to think is even better than the first, which he was pretty sold on
Neils - I'd say I hope this week went better, but having read your post it sounds frustrating too! Stick with it
Eagle River - sounds like a good few indoor ticks
richardh - still hoping to be at Malham, yes - will post to confirm a bit later in the week
Jeriqo - a few varied length sessions there
Thickhead - hope you've been enjoying off-roading again this week
IainRUK - steady week
Steve John B - bad luck, doesn't sound a great week
petestack - those numbers look pretty good to me, but you're right, they don't quite cover the slog of doing some of them in heavy snow!
andy farnell - good to hear you managed to get out. How hard is Scavenger - is this one of the 8b potentials for the year or an intermediate step on the way?
mattrm - nice one on the 5k time
Mike Nolan - problem reading is so useful - its something I try consciously to do and am forever winding my missus up about her lack of doing!
Mark Torrance - like the counters
Sankey - hope youre back into it again this week?
Miles - Whereabouts in Spain? Hope you have fun.....
Curious Yellow - hope you managed to get out - lovely weather my part of the world
seankenny - sounds like you'll definitely get it next time
Kevster - Hope north wales was good? Good effort on the Portland ticks
agibb - the level of pump depends on what sort of training youre doing - ARC for example helps with your aerobic endurance but should never get you pumped
Humperdink - good week!
Shauna - I know what you mean - I'm definitely a fish out of water on jamming cracks
Steve Perry (Pezz) - sunrise sessions is keen, bon effort!
fimm - hope the knee held up and the race went well
viking - wide pinches - evil in themselves, but when they're too wide.....
Goonie - did you get out today?
biscuit - sounds like good dedication and some good core workouts
leon - sounds like the sofa-time has been some good at least
Liam M - sounds like a good week
Nexonen - hope you stepped the pace up this week as you said?
Stone Donkey - always good to learn some new things, and good work on the 6a+/6b onsights, excellent stuff!
Daniel Heath - sounds like a brutalising weekend
jkarran - middling week, but maybe like you say having an empty house and maybe some more spare time will mean you can train to fill it
catt - sounds like a good weekend - training has got to be for somehting, after all
JimmyKay - tough one to balance - 13 days on is some serious hard work
plexiglass_nick - well, you posted, but never about your own week - very coy.....
New posters & returners - 5
ayuplass - condolences. Hope the time to think has helped with motivation and things, sounds like it has.
andy - sounds like it'll be a good month for mileage
Eric the Red - bad luck on the ankle
karen87 - good to have you along for the ride.
chris05 - shame the surf wasn't as you'd hoped, but being away can never be bad.....
Absent - 1
phja
Hopefully error-free this time.
Also, since I'm away (hopefully) this coming weekend, I'm going to be writing next week's stats Thursday night, so if you post after that I may well miss you out. Sorry, but its the only way I can really get the stats done when I'm away at the weekend.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (208) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=450342
Repeat posters -
AJM
TonyB - lack of wall grading can be a bit problematic for measuring performance, can't it, good you've found a way round it
The New NickB - well done on Trafford
grubes - if youre looking at diet/weight Dave Mac has a review of the second version of "Racing Weight" which he seems to think is even better than the first, which he was pretty sold on
Neils - I'd say I hope this week went better, but having read your post it sounds frustrating too! Stick with it
Eagle River - sounds like a good few indoor ticks
richardh - still hoping to be at Malham, yes - will post to confirm a bit later in the week
Jeriqo - a few varied length sessions there
Thickhead - hope you've been enjoying off-roading again this week
IainRUK - steady week
Steve John B - bad luck, doesn't sound a great week
petestack - those numbers look pretty good to me, but you're right, they don't quite cover the slog of doing some of them in heavy snow!
andy farnell - good to hear you managed to get out. How hard is Scavenger - is this one of the 8b potentials for the year or an intermediate step on the way?
mattrm - nice one on the 5k time
Mike Nolan - problem reading is so useful - its something I try consciously to do and am forever winding my missus up about her lack of doing!
Mark Torrance - like the counters
Sankey - hope youre back into it again this week?
Miles - Whereabouts in Spain? Hope you have fun.....
Curious Yellow - hope you managed to get out - lovely weather my part of the world
seankenny - sounds like you'll definitely get it next time
Kevster - Hope north wales was good? Good effort on the Portland ticks
agibb - the level of pump depends on what sort of training youre doing - ARC for example helps with your aerobic endurance but should never get you pumped
Humperdink - good week!
Shauna - I know what you mean - I'm definitely a fish out of water on jamming cracks
Steve Perry (Pezz) - sunrise sessions is keen, bon effort!
fimm - hope the knee held up and the race went well
viking - wide pinches - evil in themselves, but when they're too wide.....
Goonie - did you get out today?
biscuit - sounds like good dedication and some good core workouts
leon - sounds like the sofa-time has been some good at least
Liam M - sounds like a good week
Nexonen - hope you stepped the pace up this week as you said?
Stone Donkey - always good to learn some new things, and good work on the 6a+/6b onsights, excellent stuff!
Daniel Heath - sounds like a brutalising weekend
jkarran - middling week, but maybe like you say having an empty house and maybe some more spare time will mean you can train to fill it
catt - sounds like a good weekend - training has got to be for somehting, after all
JimmyKay - tough one to balance - 13 days on is some serious hard work
plexiglass_nick - well, you posted, but never about your own week - very coy.....
New posters & returners - 5
ayuplass - condolences. Hope the time to think has helped with motivation and things, sounds like it has.
andy - sounds like it'll be a good month for mileage
Eric the Red - bad luck on the ankle
karen87 - good to have you along for the ride.
chris05 - shame the surf wasn't as you'd hoped, but being away can never be bad.....
Absent - 1
phja
In reply to AJM: Scavenger is the very short 8a just left of Wasted Youth. 40ft of vertical crozzle, very techy. It's a warm-up to help the switch from bouldering to routes, plus it needs to be cold and overcast to try it, which suits the current weather
In reply to Mike Nolan: Thanks, I did okay but should have done better on a few problems TBH.
Andy F
In reply to Mike Nolan: Thanks, I did okay but should have done better on a few problems TBH.
Andy F
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
<STG> - pre-midsummer
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Nothing, I don't think
T: Warehouse. Did 3 laps of aerocap, so about 150 moves, cut the rest down further. Then did a bit of very very gentle bouldering. Then played with some foot-on campus stuff, trying to get something that worked. Was doing 1-3 and also some laddering going 1-4 then 1-3 then 1-2 and then doing the same leading with the other hand. Managed to get to falling off through powering out, but I don't really know whether I should have been being pumped solid instead.
W: AM/PM: Commuted to work on the bike - 47km round trip. Felt loads better than last time, a lot easier and far more like it used to be.
Eve: Warehouse again. Spent a lot of time but didn't feel like I did much. Bought an annual pass to try and encourage me to keep going over the summer as well as outdoors, I reckon the odd boulder or maybe campus session would probably make a good difference overall. Did a bunch of stuff including a 6b+ and a 6c onsight. Tried some foot on campus again, I think 1-4 is a bit too hard for me to fail at the right point though?
T: Basingstoke for work. Stopped at Reading Climbing Centre on the way home, but only to buy some shiny new shoes, too tired to climb
F: Day out at the races - lots of walking round compensated for by lots of drinking and eating
S: Lazed about. Should have done something but didn't
S: Cheddar. Bit cold in the shade, but thats where we ended up. Warmed up on a 5= and then a 6b which I'd fallen off years ago, felt pleasantly easy this time, and I couldn't really remember anything much about it, no more than a flash's worth of knowledge I think. Then got on a 7a+, Medipian Way. Very varied - lower section on sidepulls, gastons and undercuts, then a section which was both very balanced and press-y but also required pulling hard on some really tiny holds (first crux), then to cap it all a bit of a big roof climbed by long moves off sidepulls and undercuts with rubbish feet (second crux).
Dogged up it, couldn't figure first crux out.
Second go, with my mate's beta, did the first crux and made some links.
First redpoint - fell on lower crux - basically underworked it, my body just didn't quite "know" how to pull the wierd press move off right. Kept going and fell off the upper crux too, spent some time working sequences here.
Second (and final - we were climbing as a three so a bit slower than a pair) redpoint - blasted the lower crux, got right in amongst the second crux. Couldn't quite get my hand set in a crucial hold, combination of slightly numb tips and some mud in the hold. Tried to ad-lib by going again, but ended up wrong handed and fell off. So close - it will go next time I reckon
Should have done more in the earlier part of the week. Today ended up quite good, very close on the route. Was feeling a bit dispirited when I started dogging the route as it felt nails, so good to see that with a bit of magic beta and some persistence it can start to feel doable.
Indoor/training priorities
- Laps 4x 6c with re-tie rests
- If bouldering, actually try AeroCap (Gloucester) or circuits (TCA)
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - 454km
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
- Focus primarily on getting mileage in on days out - either pumpy trad or sport onsights
- Get up something at Malham
- Maybe sneak a 7a+/b redpoint in if time/partners/etc allows
<STG> - pre-midsummer
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 6/8 x 7a, 2/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 2/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 1x 6c o/s, 3x 6c flash)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Nothing, I don't think
T: Warehouse. Did 3 laps of aerocap, so about 150 moves, cut the rest down further. Then did a bit of very very gentle bouldering. Then played with some foot-on campus stuff, trying to get something that worked. Was doing 1-3 and also some laddering going 1-4 then 1-3 then 1-2 and then doing the same leading with the other hand. Managed to get to falling off through powering out, but I don't really know whether I should have been being pumped solid instead.
W: AM/PM: Commuted to work on the bike - 47km round trip. Felt loads better than last time, a lot easier and far more like it used to be.
Eve: Warehouse again. Spent a lot of time but didn't feel like I did much. Bought an annual pass to try and encourage me to keep going over the summer as well as outdoors, I reckon the odd boulder or maybe campus session would probably make a good difference overall. Did a bunch of stuff including a 6b+ and a 6c onsight. Tried some foot on campus again, I think 1-4 is a bit too hard for me to fail at the right point though?
T: Basingstoke for work. Stopped at Reading Climbing Centre on the way home, but only to buy some shiny new shoes, too tired to climb
F: Day out at the races - lots of walking round compensated for by lots of drinking and eating
S: Lazed about. Should have done something but didn't
S: Cheddar. Bit cold in the shade, but thats where we ended up. Warmed up on a 5= and then a 6b which I'd fallen off years ago, felt pleasantly easy this time, and I couldn't really remember anything much about it, no more than a flash's worth of knowledge I think. Then got on a 7a+, Medipian Way. Very varied - lower section on sidepulls, gastons and undercuts, then a section which was both very balanced and press-y but also required pulling hard on some really tiny holds (first crux), then to cap it all a bit of a big roof climbed by long moves off sidepulls and undercuts with rubbish feet (second crux).
Dogged up it, couldn't figure first crux out.
Second go, with my mate's beta, did the first crux and made some links.
First redpoint - fell on lower crux - basically underworked it, my body just didn't quite "know" how to pull the wierd press move off right. Kept going and fell off the upper crux too, spent some time working sequences here.
Second (and final - we were climbing as a three so a bit slower than a pair) redpoint - blasted the lower crux, got right in amongst the second crux. Couldn't quite get my hand set in a crucial hold, combination of slightly numb tips and some mud in the hold. Tried to ad-lib by going again, but ended up wrong handed and fell off. So close - it will go next time I reckon
Should have done more in the earlier part of the week. Today ended up quite good, very close on the route. Was feeling a bit dispirited when I started dogging the route as it felt nails, so good to see that with a bit of magic beta and some persistence it can start to feel doable.
In reply to AJM:
Starting to wonder about that now I'm feeling heavy-legged and jaded from another week where I've been forced onto the roads far more than I'd like. So no doubt that same mileage from trails and hills keeps me on my feet for longer, but the running's more varied and so much spring's gone from my step with all this banging about on tarmac that my current Facebook status says stuff the winter climbing for now (much as some late-season routes sound good), I need my trail runs back in condition more! :-/
Also hindered a bit this week by a great, big blood blister on my left big toe, picked up (when I rarely blister at all running) on last Sunday's Dam(n) epic, already de-roofed when discovered and not getting that much chance to heal. So maybe a lighter week coming up but, with almost any run on Tuesday bringing me the satisfaction of three back-to-back 60-mile rolling weeks, will be looking for that first before weighing up tiredness, blister state and off-road conditions on a day-by-day basis.
M: [64.9] Rest
T: [62.0] 2 x big laps, 5.8 miles (1. steady/quick, 2. hard)
W: [60.9] 'Not the nine-mile loop' (still seriously impeded by snow) into single big lap, 8.8 miles/1,600 ft
T: [60.4] Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out & back)
F: [63.3] Invercoe Boathouse, 12.4 miles hilly road (steady)
S: [60.1] Kings House to Altnafeadh (slush/snow) & Black Corries, 11.3 miles, 900 ft
S: [60.2] Single big lap + Camas na h-Eirghe, 12.4 miles
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
> petestack - those numbers look pretty good to me, but you're right, they don't quite cover the slog of doing some of them in heavy snow!
Starting to wonder about that now I'm feeling heavy-legged and jaded from another week where I've been forced onto the roads far more than I'd like. So no doubt that same mileage from trails and hills keeps me on my feet for longer, but the running's more varied and so much spring's gone from my step with all this banging about on tarmac that my current Facebook status says stuff the winter climbing for now (much as some late-season routes sound good), I need my trail runs back in condition more! :-/
Also hindered a bit this week by a great, big blood blister on my left big toe, picked up (when I rarely blister at all running) on last Sunday's Dam(n) epic, already de-roofed when discovered and not getting that much chance to heal. So maybe a lighter week coming up but, with almost any run on Tuesday bringing me the satisfaction of three back-to-back 60-mile rolling weeks, will be looking for that first before weighing up tiredness, blister state and off-road conditions on a day-by-day basis.
M: [64.9] Rest
T: [62.0] 2 x big laps, 5.8 miles (1. steady/quick, 2. hard)
W: [60.9] 'Not the nine-mile loop' (still seriously impeded by snow) into single big lap, 8.8 miles/1,600 ft
T: [60.4] Camas na h-Eirghe, 9.5 miles hilly road (steady out & back)
F: [63.3] Invercoe Boathouse, 12.4 miles hilly road (steady)
S: [60.1] Kings House to Altnafeadh (slush/snow) & Black Corries, 11.3 miles, 900 ft
S: [60.2] Single big lap + Camas na h-Eirghe, 12.4 miles
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
In reply to AJM:
It's a different (= complementary) book rather than replacement for the first. But, yes, Dave's review has prompted me into ordering it for its added value where I wasn't going to before. (Also currently reading a couple more of Matt Fitzgerald's more specifically running books, and no doubt that he's good!)
> grubes - if youre looking at diet/weight Dave Mac has a review of the second version of "Racing Weight" which he seems to think is even better than the first, which he was pretty sold on
It's a different (= complementary) book rather than replacement for the first. But, yes, Dave's review has prompted me into ordering it for its added value where I wasn't going to before. (Also currently reading a couple more of Matt Fitzgerald's more specifically running books, and no doubt that he's good!)
In reply to petestack:
Meant to say the last straw (after finding my choice of routes already so restricted) could have been discovering a short section of my village big lap 'closed' for maintenance... but ran it anyway! (So what's a couple of barriers across the path and some chopped-up tarmac to a habitual hill/trail runner?)
> S: [60.2] Single big lap + Camas na h-Eirghe, 12.4 miles
Meant to say the last straw (after finding my choice of routes already so restricted) could have been discovering a short section of my village big lap 'closed' for maintenance... but ran it anyway! (So what's a couple of barriers across the path and some chopped-up tarmac to a habitual hill/trail runner?)
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
Tricky week this week. Only managed to do anything at all on Friday. Did a few easy slabs at the castle and my injured finger started hurting like hell. So I quit. Now just praying I can get it recovered and not lose too much fitness for France in three weeks.
Thanks Andy,
Tricky week this week. Only managed to do anything at all on Friday. Did a few easy slabs at the castle and my injured finger started hurting like hell. So I quit. Now just praying I can get it recovered and not lose too much fitness for France in three weeks.
In reply to petestack:
Fair enough. He seemed to say it was more relevant for climbers than the original Racing Weight book, which is kind of why it grabbed my attention. Obviously it's not arrived yet, but I'd be interested to hear your views on whether it stands alone or whether it does need to be read in conjunction with the other one to get the most from it - I was considering a purchase myself too, I think losing some weight would be good for my climbing, but (combined with a lack of willpower, which definitely doesn't help!) I find it quite difficult to balance this with the food requirements of training...
Fair enough. He seemed to say it was more relevant for climbers than the original Racing Weight book, which is kind of why it grabbed my attention. Obviously it's not arrived yet, but I'd be interested to hear your views on whether it stands alone or whether it does need to be read in conjunction with the other one to get the most from it - I was considering a purchase myself too, I think losing some weight would be good for my climbing, but (combined with a lack of willpower, which definitely doesn't help!) I find it quite difficult to balance this with the food requirements of training...
In reply to JimmyKay:
cheers mate. Felt amazing to get it done to get it done celebrated with a curry last night. Hows the resting going?
In reply to AJM:
is this the book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/racingweight.html ) or is there a newer version coming out?
cheers mate. Felt amazing to get it done to get it done celebrated with a curry last night. Hows the resting going?
In reply to AJM:
> grubes - if youre looking at diet/weight Dave Mac has a review of the second version of "Racing Weight" which he seems to think is even better than the first, which he was pretty sold on
Off for a curry with work tonight diet starts tomorrow. is this the book (http://www.davemacleod.com/shop/racingweight.html ) or is there a newer version coming out?
In reply to grubes:
Theres "Racing Weight" and then theres "Racing Weight: the quick start guide" (I think thats right).
Petestack above says they are two complimentary volumes rather than one being a newer version of the other. If you look at his blog he has a review of the"quick start guide" one there.
Theres "Racing Weight" and then theres "Racing Weight: the quick start guide" (I think thats right).
Petestack above says they are two complimentary volumes rather than one being a newer version of the other. If you look at his blog he has a review of the"quick start guide" one there.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy.
STG (end of April 2011): 7b at Malham
MTG (end of 2011): 7b+ outdoors
Mon: Bolton Complexes + some other antagonist stuff
Tues: Broughton - mostly traversing around. Skin failed before arms did, think I need to go more often to toughen up skin.
Wed: stretching
Thurs: nothing
Fri: Malham. warmed up on consenting then got on seventh aardvark. After a dog up to put the clips in I had 5 redpoint attempts getting to the last moves and failing mostly because of not getting my feet right then on the last attempt I had run out of steam so fell off. Taking decent falls from the top was good for my head and I think it will go next time I get on the route. The crag was really dry but felt a bit greasy in the heat.
Sat & Sun: nothing.
I have this friday off too so can't wait to get back on Seventh Aardvark. It's such a cracking route I wasn't really too dissappointed to not complete it because I get another few goes at it.
Thanks Andy.
STG (end of April 2011): 7b at Malham
MTG (end of 2011): 7b+ outdoors
Mon: Bolton Complexes + some other antagonist stuff
Tues: Broughton - mostly traversing around. Skin failed before arms did, think I need to go more often to toughen up skin.
Wed: stretching
Thurs: nothing
Fri: Malham. warmed up on consenting then got on seventh aardvark. After a dog up to put the clips in I had 5 redpoint attempts getting to the last moves and failing mostly because of not getting my feet right then on the last attempt I had run out of steam so fell off. Taking decent falls from the top was good for my head and I think it will go next time I get on the route. The crag was really dry but felt a bit greasy in the heat.
Sat & Sun: nothing.
I have this friday off too so can't wait to get back on Seventh Aardvark. It's such a cracking route I wasn't really too dissappointed to not complete it because I get another few goes at it.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg (achieved) down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:08. Sub 40 minute 10k (achieved), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3:00 Marathon and some fast times in long fell races.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 6.3 miles including hard hill rep session.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 5 miles medium hard road.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Local 5k in 19:08, equalled my post 2000 PB on a slightly tougher course, slightly hung over. The hangover probably cost me a sub 19.
Sunday - Ran the LDWA 2 Crosses event (18 miles / 2300') on the moors around Bury. Pretty steady as running with a slightly slower runner, good to do a longer route with a decent amount of ascent.
Wilmslow Half on Sunday so will be a fairly easy week.
Thanks Andy
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg (achieved) down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:08. Sub 40 minute 10k (achieved), Sub 1:30 half marathon (Wilmslow 27/03).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3:00 Marathon and some fast times in long fell races.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 6.3 miles including hard hill rep session.
Wednesday - Rest.
Thursday - 5 miles medium hard road.
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - Local 5k in 19:08, equalled my post 2000 PB on a slightly tougher course, slightly hung over. The hangover probably cost me a sub 19.
Sunday - Ran the LDWA 2 Crosses event (18 miles / 2300') on the moors around Bury. Pretty steady as running with a slightly slower runner, good to do a longer route with a decent amount of ascent.
Wilmslow Half on Sunday so will be a fairly easy week.
Cheers AJM. Definitely good to be away so no complaints!
M: surfing
T: surfing
W: surfing and then fly back to UK
T: rest & pub
F: rest
S: bouldering churnet
S: 5m fell run (Burbage skyline) and then a short bouldering session
Good to be back climbing and running after a break, mainly climbed easy stuff at the weekend but did have a few goes at Fingers up at Wrights rock which seems like it might go with a bit (probably quite a lot) of work.
M: surfing
T: surfing
W: surfing and then fly back to UK
T: rest & pub
F: rest
S: bouldering churnet
S: 5m fell run (Burbage skyline) and then a short bouldering session
Good to be back climbing and running after a break, mainly climbed easy stuff at the weekend but did have a few goes at Fingers up at Wrights rock which seems like it might go with a bit (probably quite a lot) of work.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
Nice few outdoor sessions again this week including another sunrise session at Lower Churnet and my first post-work session this year, at Ramshaw! Head-game going backwards a bit at the end of the week, had a good opportunity to second The Crank (VS 5a) but bottled it, even on second. Might be a bit tired mentally but really need to address this before it takes hold again as I was making great progress.
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (4 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE)) -- COMPLETED!
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (21 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Rest
W a.m: Lovely morning session at Cottage Rocks.
W p.m: Bit of a nothing session, TR'd 5 routes and that was it. Didn't feel motivated. Tired from two sessions in one day maybe?
T: Rest
F: Practising footwork on easy angled slabs. Really enjoyed it! First post-work outdoor sesh of the year! Then up to Upper Limits for an indoor session after sunset. Practising one-handed arête climbing and movement training. Felt like I was climbing very well tonight - extra (consistent) sessions really are helping confidence and technique.
S: Great day out bouldering and slack-lining at The Roaches and Ramshaw. Didn't feel psyched to get on any routes though which frustrated me a lot. Been confident for a while now but really didn't want to get on anything, even on second. Will address this as it's heading backwards…
S: Rest (nice walk at Lower Churnet)
Weight: 140.4 lbs (- 0.4 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.0 % (- 0.1 % from last week)
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: Cod Liver Oil supplement
Cheers Andy.
Nice few outdoor sessions again this week including another sunrise session at Lower Churnet and my first post-work session this year, at Ramshaw! Head-game going backwards a bit at the end of the week, had a good opportunity to second The Crank (VS 5a) but bottled it, even on second. Might be a bit tired mentally but really need to address this before it takes hold again as I was making great progress.
---------------------------
CURRENT LEVELS AND WEAKNESSES
---------------------------
ARC: V1 / V2- for 30 mins (bring this up to 45 mins)
CIR: V3 (ok for current level)
TB: V7 / V8 (ok for current level)
Bouldering: Ok at current level
Trad: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
Sport: Below current level (weakest point: head-game)
---------------------------
GOALS - above all else have fun and remain injury free
---------------------------
STG / FOCUS (in order of priority):
Complete current trad pyramid on lead (8 x Diff (2 DONE), 4 x VDiff (1 DONE), 2 x HVD (3 DONE), 1 x S (0 DONE))
Complete current indoor route pyramid on lead (8 x F4+ (11 DONE), 4 x F5 (4 DONE), 2 x F5+ (3 DONE), 1 X F6a (1 DONE)) -- COMPLETED!
Lead 100 routes indoor before the clocks change in March (21 DONE)
ARC at V1 / V2- for 45 mins
General movement training during ARC and CIR
Some TB when fresh
MTG:
Lead 100 routes up to HVS (6 DONE)
Redpoint in under 5 attempts ~20 - 30m F7a sport (inside and outside)
O/S Cenotaph Corner
O/S Cemetery Gates
LTG: Hopefully some of these will be this year but will see how short and mediums go before setting dates
O/S Left Wall, fully consolidate at E2, O/S V5, H/P V7, O/S V6, H/P V8, H/P F8a sport, O/S F8a sport.
---------------------------
WEEKLY TOTALS
---------------------------
M: Rest
T: Rest
W a.m: Lovely morning session at Cottage Rocks.
W p.m: Bit of a nothing session, TR'd 5 routes and that was it. Didn't feel motivated. Tired from two sessions in one day maybe?
T: Rest
F: Practising footwork on easy angled slabs. Really enjoyed it! First post-work outdoor sesh of the year! Then up to Upper Limits for an indoor session after sunset. Practising one-handed arête climbing and movement training. Felt like I was climbing very well tonight - extra (consistent) sessions really are helping confidence and technique.
S: Great day out bouldering and slack-lining at The Roaches and Ramshaw. Didn't feel psyched to get on any routes though which frustrated me a lot. Been confident for a while now but really didn't want to get on anything, even on second. Will address this as it's heading backwards…
S: Rest (nice walk at Lower Churnet)
Weight: 140.4 lbs (- 0.4 lbs from last wk)
Body Fat: 7.0 % (- 0.1 % from last week)
(Really don't trust my body fat percentage figure but on a week-by-week basis it's fine for keeping track of ups and downs.)
---------------------------
NUTRITION LOG (Daily guidelines only, I don't always stick exactly to them)
Please note that this is for me and won't work for everyone as nutritional requirements are very different from person to person.
---------------------------
BREAKFAST: Black coffee. Muesli, fruit, porridge with chopped fruit, toast (must be wholegrain or brown bread).
SNACK: Black coffee. Fruit / nuts and seeds.
LUNCH: Chicken pasta with fresh salad / chicken or ham salad sandwiches on wholegrain / brown bread.
SNACK: Fruit / nuts and seeds.
TEA: Chicken breast (or equivalent) usually with potato / pasta etc., and fresh veg (especially broccoli).
SUPPER: Cottage cheese.
TRAINING SUPPLEMENTS:
Reiki and meditation
Once a day: Cod Liver Oil supplement
Mon - nothing
Tue - 4 miles easy
Wed - 6 miler on hilly roads
Thu - nowt
Fri - nowt
Sat - Ras yr Aran 10m/3100' really good race lovely weather, finished in 1.55 so happy with that as i havent raced for 11 months, just need some consistent training before Moelwyns mid April now
Sun - rest
Tue - 4 miles easy
Wed - 6 miler on hilly roads
Thu - nowt
Fri - nowt
Sat - Ras yr Aran 10m/3100' really good race lovely weather, finished in 1.55 so happy with that as i havent raced for 11 months, just need some consistent training before Moelwyns mid April now
Sun - rest
In reply to Eagle River:
Love the attitude. bad luck i'm sure it'll go next time.
> I have this friday off too so can't wait to get back on Seventh Aardvark. It's such a cracking route I wasn't really too dissappointed to not complete it because I get another few goes at it.
Love the attitude. bad luck i'm sure it'll go next time.
In reply to grubes:
Nice one. I remember you saying ages ago you just needed to get on it. Looks like you finally did ;0)
It's all upwards from here. Keep the positivity from it and use it to get an E2 OS done.
Nice one. I remember you saying ages ago you just needed to get on it. Looks like you finally did ;0)
It's all upwards from here. Keep the positivity from it and use it to get an E2 OS done.
In reply to Eagle River: If you are nearly doing 7b in a session it's time to up the game and try a 7b+ and get sieging. I'd consider Space Race as the next target, a good introduction to the 7b+ grade.
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM - just starting to get back fit now (fingers crossed)
Goals: March: make A-Team for 12 stage relays.
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May sub 33min 10K.
This week’s goal: was two quality sessions without injury – however, on Monday I felt really tired and sore so after having three fairly tough weeks I decided it was time to have an easier week
Mon: am Really stiff from long run! 32 mins easy jog was so asleep I managed to fall over much to gf’s enjoyment! Lunch –physio exercises* pm Gym – Weights* + X-Trainer 30mins
Tue: Lunch – physio exercises pm 8M steady on road in 54:04 - right shin sore
Wed: Rest (although still did physio exercises)
Thurs: Shin better. Lunch – physio exercises, pm Gym – Weights, Bike – Lactate Intervals: 1,2,4,8,16,(32) mins off 1min easy. The idea is not to finish the 32mins interval, if you do then its too easy. Managed 7mins of the 32 before coming to a halt! Had massage after.
Fri: Lunch – physio exercises, pm Joined in gf’s 16M tempo run - did 8/9M @6:45 pace.
Sat: am 8/9M in 55:17 on/off road – lovely morning
Sun: am 13/14M in 1:32:10 on/off road.
Total ~42M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Ok week – bit worried about my shin but it seems to be coping ok at the moment.
Goals: March: make A-Team for 12 stage relays.
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May sub 33min 10K.
This week’s goal: was two quality sessions without injury – however, on Monday I felt really tired and sore so after having three fairly tough weeks I decided it was time to have an easier week
Mon: am Really stiff from long run! 32 mins easy jog was so asleep I managed to fall over much to gf’s enjoyment! Lunch –physio exercises* pm Gym – Weights* + X-Trainer 30mins
Tue: Lunch – physio exercises pm 8M steady on road in 54:04 - right shin sore
Wed: Rest (although still did physio exercises)
Thurs: Shin better. Lunch – physio exercises, pm Gym – Weights, Bike – Lactate Intervals: 1,2,4,8,16,(32) mins off 1min easy. The idea is not to finish the 32mins interval, if you do then its too easy. Managed 7mins of the 32 before coming to a halt! Had massage after.
Fri: Lunch – physio exercises, pm Joined in gf’s 16M tempo run - did 8/9M @6:45 pace.
Sat: am 8/9M in 55:17 on/off road – lovely morning
Sun: am 13/14M in 1:32:10 on/off road.
Total ~42M
Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Ok week – bit worried about my shin but it seems to be coping ok at the moment.
In reply to andy farnell:
I'd had a look at Seventh a couple of weeks before so it's my second session on it. Conveniently a friend of mine wants to do Space Race so I'll definitely have a look next time I'm there with him. Thanks for the recommendation.
I'd had a look at Seventh a couple of weeks before so it's my second session on it. Conveniently a friend of mine wants to do Space Race so I'll definitely have a look next time I'm there with him. Thanks for the recommendation.
In reply to biscuit:
Thanks! If you're planning on any more post-Spain move trips to malham i'd highly recommend the route, cracking moves.
> Love the attitude. bad luck i'm sure it'll go next time.
Thanks! If you're planning on any more post-Spain move trips to malham i'd highly recommend the route, cracking moves.
In reply to biscuit:
I have been putting it off for so long now partially due to my shoulder injury and bad weather. Mainly due to not going to the crag and a bit of fear.
> (In reply to grubes)
>
> Nice one. I remember you saying ages ago you just needed to get on it. Looks like you finally did ;0)
Cheers biscuit>
> Nice one. I remember you saying ages ago you just needed to get on it. Looks like you finally did ;0)
I have been putting it off for so long now partially due to my shoulder injury and bad weather. Mainly due to not going to the crag and a bit of fear.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Yep, climbing should always take precedence over training! Was flicking through the Cheddar guide with Nick over the weekend. Really must get over there when it warms up some more.
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
M - rest
T - Hangs @ Castle; Strength session. Back 3, front 3, back 2, front 2. Front 2 are weak below 2nd joint size. Also introduced holding poor holds and positions on the Wave.
W - Bouldering @ Castle; Volume session. 40ish problems to V4
T - Bouldering @ Castle; Light session taking it easy on my shoulder. Worked moves on Pen Grey V7. This should go.
F - rest
S - Climbing @ Portland; Got on Keyboard Wall at Battleship. 3 x working goes on TR. Couldn't get a crux sequence, the rest was straightforward.
S - Climbing @ Portland; Another 3 working goes on Keyboard Wall. 2nd go finally found a sequence that works for me. 3rd time helped to get the sequence wired but way too tired for any sort of links. Fingers also taking a beating! Well psyched for it.
Feeling a bit beaten up after last week and the weekend. Good stuff. I've now got two 7cs that I think will go. One's good for day trips from London and ones good for weekends away so one will happen, assuming current niggles clear up. Both just need a little more crimp and finger endurance so will take this into account with the training. Keyboard Wall in particular has some very specific holds I can train on the boards.
Cheers Andy. Yep, climbing should always take precedence over training! Was flicking through the Cheddar guide with Nick over the weekend. Really must get over there when it warms up some more.
By Apr 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
M - rest
T - Hangs @ Castle; Strength session. Back 3, front 3, back 2, front 2. Front 2 are weak below 2nd joint size. Also introduced holding poor holds and positions on the Wave.
W - Bouldering @ Castle; Volume session. 40ish problems to V4
T - Bouldering @ Castle; Light session taking it easy on my shoulder. Worked moves on Pen Grey V7. This should go.
F - rest
S - Climbing @ Portland; Got on Keyboard Wall at Battleship. 3 x working goes on TR. Couldn't get a crux sequence, the rest was straightforward.
S - Climbing @ Portland; Another 3 working goes on Keyboard Wall. 2nd go finally found a sequence that works for me. 3rd time helped to get the sequence wired but way too tired for any sort of links. Fingers also taking a beating! Well psyched for it.
Feeling a bit beaten up after last week and the weekend. Good stuff. I've now got two 7cs that I think will go. One's good for day trips from London and ones good for weekends away so one will happen, assuming current niggles clear up. Both just need a little more crimp and finger endurance so will take this into account with the training. Keyboard Wall in particular has some very specific holds I can train on the boards.
In reply to catt:
It's warm enough now in the sun for Cheddar - I was only getting cold yesterday because we spent all day on a shady outcrop (I remembered it getting more sun than it does, and frustratingly it clouded over just as the sun came round). In hindsight we probably should have gone for the sun, but then the route was quite fun so worth the shade for
Let me know if you decide to head down or want any beta on routes/crags/access rules/etc
It's warm enough now in the sun for Cheddar - I was only getting cold yesterday because we spent all day on a shady outcrop (I remembered it getting more sun than it does, and frustratingly it clouded over just as the sun came round). In hindsight we probably should have gone for the sun, but then the route was quite fun so worth the shade for
Let me know if you decide to head down or want any beta on routes/crags/access rules/etc
Thank you AJM:
Upcoming races:
Mighty Deerstalker 10k off road run 19th March
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: swim 3000m
Tu: ran off-road 50 minutes.
W: cycled to work and home again (26km each way) with 20 minute run-off in evening
Th: cycled to and from work again. Got home in 55 minutes rolling time which is a new PB! Now to try and get the outward journey under an hour (it is net uphill that way). 20 minute run-off.
F: rest
Sa: am 15 minute pre-race loosener (was out about 7:30am, it was a lovely crisp sunny morning, it was a pleasure to be out).
pm: Mighty Deerstalker off road/adventure race. 2:11:55. 552nd overall (1600 finishers), 67th female. It is advertised as "10k and a bit" and is more like 14km, with 600m of ascent IIRC, according to the bloke's Garmin. That time is OK and comparable with previous years. I got stuck behind more slower people than I remember from the last two times I've done it. Didn't feel quite as fit towards the end, ie my endurance has been better, from what I remember. Anyway quite fun. Knee held up well; in fact I haven't noticed it being achey since, touch wood.
Su: sore legs. We took a gentle pootle on the bikes to a cafe for "second breakfast" - lots of protein for recovery, honest!
Interestingly enough I've also been reading "Racing Weight" recently. I'll go and have a look at what Dave Mac has to say about it. The advice seems pretty good from an "endurance athlete" point of view (I feel a complete fraud calling myself an athlete, but you get what I mean) and it gets recommended on the triathlon forums I use. I would like to actually work through some of the stuff about diet quality and eating time - it is a book you actually need to put into practice! Incidentally someone on last week's thread mentioned the MyFitnessPal website and I'm finding that a useful tool for logging food, though it isn't perfect.
Upcoming races:
Mighty Deerstalker 10k off road run 19th March
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: swim 3000m
Tu: ran off-road 50 minutes.
W: cycled to work and home again (26km each way) with 20 minute run-off in evening
Th: cycled to and from work again. Got home in 55 minutes rolling time which is a new PB! Now to try and get the outward journey under an hour (it is net uphill that way). 20 minute run-off.
F: rest
Sa: am 15 minute pre-race loosener (was out about 7:30am, it was a lovely crisp sunny morning, it was a pleasure to be out).
pm: Mighty Deerstalker off road/adventure race. 2:11:55. 552nd overall (1600 finishers), 67th female. It is advertised as "10k and a bit" and is more like 14km, with 600m of ascent IIRC, according to the bloke's Garmin. That time is OK and comparable with previous years. I got stuck behind more slower people than I remember from the last two times I've done it. Didn't feel quite as fit towards the end, ie my endurance has been better, from what I remember. Anyway quite fun. Knee held up well; in fact I haven't noticed it being achey since, touch wood.
Su: sore legs. We took a gentle pootle on the bikes to a cafe for "second breakfast" - lots of protein for recovery, honest!
Interestingly enough I've also been reading "Racing Weight" recently. I'll go and have a look at what Dave Mac has to say about it. The advice seems pretty good from an "endurance athlete" point of view (I feel a complete fraud calling myself an athlete, but you get what I mean) and it gets recommended on the triathlon forums I use. I would like to actually work through some of the stuff about diet quality and eating time - it is a book you actually need to put into practice! Incidentally someone on last week's thread mentioned the MyFitnessPal website and I'm finding that a useful tool for logging food, though it isn't perfect.
In reply to AJM:
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run
W: 4.5mile trail run
T: 12mile fell run Tal Y Fan/Foel Lwyd from Sychnant Pass
F: Rest
S: 20mile hilly road race 2:24 Rhayader
S: 6mile trail run Sychnant Pass
Not happy with Saturday's result, got a stitch after 12.5miles - really don't do so well in warm conditions. 2minutes slower than last year. Worried now re London - have to get at least 3x20mile runs in to stand a chance of going Sub 3. Kind of resigned to just enjoying the experience, raise some money for charity and if I get a PB then its a bonus. Felt broken on Saturday evening and yesterday, feel bit more positive now.
M: Rest
T: 5mile trail run
W: 4.5mile trail run
T: 12mile fell run Tal Y Fan/Foel Lwyd from Sychnant Pass
F: Rest
S: 20mile hilly road race 2:24 Rhayader
S: 6mile trail run Sychnant Pass
Not happy with Saturday's result, got a stitch after 12.5miles - really don't do so well in warm conditions. 2minutes slower than last year. Worried now re London - have to get at least 3x20mile runs in to stand a chance of going Sub 3. Kind of resigned to just enjoying the experience, raise some money for charity and if I get a PB then its a bonus. Felt broken on Saturday evening and yesterday, feel bit more positive now.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Climbing this week has been good but the running is weird, there seems to be something wrong with me or my running but I don't know what, my pace is miles off and I had to walk yesterday. Hopefully I'm just a bit ill. I've no excuse for neglecting the stretching and therabanding, I just don't like doing it.
M: Indoor. Good session with a couple of (Harrogate) 7a flashes and a couple more very near misses.
T:
W: Indoor, Oaklands. Reasonable routes session.
T: Run 5.17mi (11:13 pace). Something is wrong here, it felt like a normal (8min/mi) run.
F:
S: Cheedale, couple of 6b OS and a quick 7a RP. Ok way to open the season
S: Run 4.84mi (8:20 pace). Walked a fair chunk of it for some reason I can't put my finger on. Maybe tiredness, hangover, head cold, full belly or I simply couldn't be arsed I'm just not sure
1 week:
Volume climbing [tick - good enough]
>3 Stretching sessions [fail]
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions [fail]
>7mi Running [tick, sort of - 10mi]
Lose 1/2kg (currently: 'not sure' kg) [no idea]
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
Cheers Andy. Climbing this week has been good but the running is weird, there seems to be something wrong with me or my running but I don't know what, my pace is miles off and I had to walk yesterday. Hopefully I'm just a bit ill. I've no excuse for neglecting the stretching and therabanding, I just don't like doing it.
M: Indoor. Good session with a couple of (Harrogate) 7a flashes and a couple more very near misses.
T:
W: Indoor, Oaklands. Reasonable routes session.
T: Run 5.17mi (11:13 pace). Something is wrong here, it felt like a normal (8min/mi) run.
F:
S: Cheedale, couple of 6b OS and a quick 7a RP. Ok way to open the season
S: Run 4.84mi (8:20 pace). Walked a fair chunk of it for some reason I can't put my finger on. Maybe tiredness, hangover, head cold, full belly or I simply couldn't be arsed I'm just not sure
1 week:
Volume climbing [tick - good enough]
>3 Stretching sessions [fail]
>3 shoulder and elbow exercise sessions [fail]
>7mi Running [tick, sort of - 10mi]
Lose 1/2kg (currently: 'not sure' kg) [no idea]
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
In reply to AJM:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: 4k run in 16:45 - new pb
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at Castle - nothing above V4, but made progress on the V6
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - nothing above V4, managed to link the bottom half of the V6
Fri: rest
Sat: 10k jog - 58mins ish took it slow - it's the furthest I've ran for years. I really enjoyed though, really sunny!
Sun: rest
Fingers were a bit tweaky over the weekend - i shouldn't really have got on the V6 on thursday! This week will be quiet though as I'm off to Berlin for 5 days on thursday.
STG: V6 outdoors (End of March 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of May 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: 4k run in 16:45 - new pb
Tue: rest
Wed: Bouldered at Castle - nothing above V4, but made progress on the V6
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - nothing above V4, managed to link the bottom half of the V6
Fri: rest
Sat: 10k jog - 58mins ish took it slow - it's the furthest I've ran for years. I really enjoyed though, really sunny!
Sun: rest
Fingers were a bit tweaky over the weekend - i shouldn't really have got on the V6 on thursday! This week will be quiet though as I'm off to Berlin for 5 days on thursday.
In reply to Eagle River:
Space Race is hard for the grade. Crushing routes quickly like you are doing is a good strategy as long as it is progressive as it gives more varied skills, strengths and probably more confidence in going up through the grades.
Don't choose projecting it will choose you. That happens when you've plateaued or when you run out of routes that you can quickly redpoint or are particularly inspired by a route or you have a twisted masochistic streak like Andy and me.
> (In reply to andy farnell)
>
> I'd had a look at Seventh a couple of weeks before so it's my second session on it. Conveniently a friend of mine wants to do Space Race so I'll definitely have a look next time I'm there with him. Thanks for the recommendation.
>
> I'd had a look at Seventh a couple of weeks before so it's my second session on it. Conveniently a friend of mine wants to do Space Race so I'll definitely have a look next time I'm there with him. Thanks for the recommendation.
Space Race is hard for the grade. Crushing routes quickly like you are doing is a good strategy as long as it is progressive as it gives more varied skills, strengths and probably more confidence in going up through the grades.
Don't choose projecting it will choose you. That happens when you've plateaued or when you run out of routes that you can quickly redpoint or are particularly inspired by a route or you have a twisted masochistic streak like Andy and me.
In reply to shark:
I agree with what you’re saying and there are plenty of other 7bs at Malham I want to try after 7th Aardvark.
However, if there is a rope on a good 7b+ and a partner with decent beta it seems to me a too-good opportunity to waste, especially as I hope to have ticked a route of that level by the end of the year.
This is my first real attempt at redpointing and I’ve really enjoyed the all the routes I’ve tried so far. Not had to properly seige anything yet (i.e. more than 3 visits) so still trying to find where my upper limit is.
I agree with what you’re saying and there are plenty of other 7bs at Malham I want to try after 7th Aardvark.
However, if there is a rope on a good 7b+ and a partner with decent beta it seems to me a too-good opportunity to waste, especially as I hope to have ticked a route of that level by the end of the year.
This is my first real attempt at redpointing and I’ve really enjoyed the all the routes I’ve tried so far. Not had to properly seige anything yet (i.e. more than 3 visits) so still trying to find where my upper limit is.
In reply to shark:
Middle of the grade I'd say. 7a+ to a good shake, another 7a+ to a hands free rest, another 7a to the belay, with a good shake in the middle.
Alternatively, you have the siege mentality required to grind a route down over many days/week/months/years/geological periods. Oh, I see your point...
Andy f
> (In reply to Eagle River)
> [...]
>
>
> Space Race is hard for the grade.
> [...]
>
>
> Space Race is hard for the grade.
Middle of the grade I'd say. 7a+ to a good shake, another 7a+ to a hands free rest, another 7a to the belay, with a good shake in the middle.
> Don't choose projecting it will choose you. That happens when you've a twisted masochistic streak like Andy and me.
Alternatively, you have the siege mentality required to grind a route down over many days/week/months/years/geological periods. Oh, I see your point...
Andy f
In reply to Eagle River:
Hey mate, knowing your bouldering ability I suspect your upper limit is considerably more than you are currently aiming for!
> (In reply to shark)
> Not had to properly seige anything yet (i.e. more than 3 visits) so still trying to find where my upper limit is.
> Not had to properly seige anything yet (i.e. more than 3 visits) so still trying to find where my upper limit is.
Hey mate, knowing your bouldering ability I suspect your upper limit is considerably more than you are currently aiming for!
In reply to catt:
That 'ability' is a bit lower than it was when I last climbed with you.
Are you up this weekend?
That 'ability' is a bit lower than it was when I last climbed with you.
Are you up this weekend?
In reply to AJM:
STG: 2 sets of 4x4 @ V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
MTG: 2 sets of 4x4 @ V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'12", 11% fat.
Focus: Anerobic endurance week 1 of 2.
Mon: 31 pull-ups. Antagonistic. Core (318 moves).
Tue: 30 mins ARC. 2 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 2 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
Fri: 30 pull-ups. Antagonistic. Core (322 moves).
Sat: Boulder @ Stanage to V3.
Sun: 30 mins ARC. 1 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1. Repeaters(-7)
Pleased with the volume & quality this week. Ache today. I was better than expected with 4x4 & ARC ability but was crap on the fingerboard.
Tried a 7A @ Stanage that was at my limit last year. I'm still able to complete the individual moves but no hope of linking it.
Next week STG is to complete 2 sets of 4x4 @ V1, V1+, V1+, V1 with no fails.
Excuses in for next week now. I'm away a bit so will aim for 3 good sessions.
STG: 2 sets of 4x4 @ V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
MTG: 2 sets of 4x4 @ V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'12", 11% fat.
Focus: Anerobic endurance week 1 of 2.
Mon: 31 pull-ups. Antagonistic. Core (318 moves).
Tue: 30 mins ARC. 2 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
Wed: Rest.
Thu: 30 mins ARC. 2 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1.
Fri: 30 pull-ups. Antagonistic. Core (322 moves).
Sat: Boulder @ Stanage to V3.
Sun: 30 mins ARC. 1 set of 4x4 V2, V1+, V1+, V1. Repeaters(-7)
Pleased with the volume & quality this week. Ache today. I was better than expected with 4x4 & ARC ability but was crap on the fingerboard.
Tried a 7A @ Stanage that was at my limit last year. I'm still able to complete the individual moves but no hope of linking it.
Next week STG is to complete 2 sets of 4x4 @ V1, V1+, V1+, V1 with no fails.
Excuses in for next week now. I'm away a bit so will aim for 3 good sessions.
In reply to AJM:
Hello all,
Tues: Indoors lead climbing, clean 7b+, took 2 falls on the 7c, spinner spat me off the 7b. Need to keep on the tougher routes along with the volume.
Wed:
Thur: Castle: Bouldering. Faded through evening. Nothing over V5, this seems to be my limit here.
Fri
Sat: Slate quarrys easy stuff but fun. 6b/E1 tops.
Sun: Colwyn bay: Onsight upto 6c, one try on 7a+, crimpy crux failure.
Similar week this coming week to last week,
Cheers, Kev
Hello all,
Tues: Indoors lead climbing, clean 7b+, took 2 falls on the 7c, spinner spat me off the 7b. Need to keep on the tougher routes along with the volume.
Wed:
Thur: Castle: Bouldering. Faded through evening. Nothing over V5, this seems to be my limit here.
Fri
Sat: Slate quarrys easy stuff but fun. 6b/E1 tops.
Sun: Colwyn bay: Onsight upto 6c, one try on 7a+, crimpy crux failure.
Similar week this coming week to last week,
Cheers, Kev
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, Yep managed to get out and went to Cheddar for first time (interesting place) started off on stepped wall and did not enjoy taking a massive whipper and nearly hitting a ledge when I pulled a block off! then moved round to Tsunami though I will avoid the right in the future as it is very friable/loose/fallinjg down! Finished on Wave which was OK a bit short but packs it in with steepness! Good day and starting to feel the lve! You probably heard me shouting at some stuff!!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
Week 11 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), V9 (Sale Gosse)
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, V8
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING PHASE: Fatigue Peak -
Fatigue Peak is just the end of the loading phase and I decided to concentrate on power, Sessions felt hard and did not feel powerful at start of week so bagged the campus session on Friday as it would be a bit much. Think I may go to another wall for this phase as the campus board at ME is rubbish. Rungs are coming off! Did two days of AnCap and seen some good progress on this managing to stay on for 40 seconds now through increasing numkber of foot movements to make it more like route climbing, also holding each hold over 5-6 seconds seems to be working. Also continued with Anaerobic volume by doing the 20 in 30min warm up!
Continued with flexibility and also Bolton complex which haqs improved a lot this week shoulders starting to feel good also noticed that even though the weights are light it seems to have a very positive affect on core and metabolism? seem to be leaning up quite a bit!
The power training was good and I managed to do pullups with additional 47.5kg hanging off me which is new PB. After a couple of reps you feel like your flying when you take the weight off!
Trip to Cheddar on Sunday:
Routes at Cheddar Gorge, First time here and was not inspired at first as it was cold and damp! Got on a 6a warm up on stepped wall which was fine then a 6c to the left which was fine until i pulled a hold off the top right one move from finished a gashed my thumb and took a whipper! got over it and sussed a better sequence and cleaned. decided to move to another crag so went further down the road and spotted in the sun an amazing looking wall (from distance) which is called Tsunami. Went up there and started on a 7a called Joy ride which was fine, the tried doing a 7b called Moonmilk, this was awful and there was bits falling off all over any holds i tried pulling on flaked off??? shit route dogged it to top and put clips in 7c called Hard Bass Religion good route and got two good links on it took some falls but could not suss the middle move yet either crap undercut or all out jump for okish edge need to get back on and finish. Packed up here and moved down to The Wave and tried an absolute sandbag route at apparently 6c??? called Bee Keeping in A Warzone. Terrible route and no where near the grade I couldnt get off the ground apparently move off deck is eng tech 6c? locals said 7c to right has same start and crux is start WTF. Very starange. Gave up after dgging up it and stripped. Walked down to a couple of lower routes and flashed a 7a called Raw Deal very fun route on monster holds not very hard. Spotted a great looking 7b+ called Insatiable that looks flashable next time maybe. Overall warming to Cheddar though grading is mental with soft and hard next to each other and some routes ungradeable! The rock in places is very dissappointing and talking to a local the chalky dirty climbing is part of it. Bizzarre place.
All last weeks targets hit apart from 3rd campus session on Friday but was too boxed for it. massive week volume wise and contnued my 20 problems in 30 mins above V3 again. Managed over 21 problems.No rings session as it would have been too much as I was knackered after everything else. Think I just about hit the fatigue i was looking for!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
-
This Weeks Goals:
Entering into the unloading phase so dropping the volume by 50% but intensity stays the same (PE primary, Power Secondary), so the next week I am going to try and partially recover from the volume overloading but due to my bouldering tactics going to do one campus session this week.
- 2 PE sessions doing circuits, 4x4's and AnCap work. 1 power session on campus board with no weight. 3 x core sessions. 1 core class. 3 x Bolton Complex and synergist/elbow conditioning. Need to keep intensity high as last week.
Bring on the pump!
Weight: 75.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks Andy, Yep managed to get out and went to Cheddar for first time (interesting place) started off on stepped wall and did not enjoy taking a massive whipper and nearly hitting a ledge when I pulled a block off! then moved round to Tsunami though I will avoid the right in the future as it is very friable/loose/fallinjg down! Finished on Wave which was OK a bit short but packs it in with steepness! Good day and starting to feel the lve! You probably heard me shouting at some stuff!!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
Week 11 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end Apr
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), V9 (Sale Gosse)
Indoors: 7c+ RP, 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight, V8
Medium: May
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak?)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING PHASE: Fatigue Peak -
Fatigue Peak is just the end of the loading phase and I decided to concentrate on power, Sessions felt hard and did not feel powerful at start of week so bagged the campus session on Friday as it would be a bit much. Think I may go to another wall for this phase as the campus board at ME is rubbish. Rungs are coming off! Did two days of AnCap and seen some good progress on this managing to stay on for 40 seconds now through increasing numkber of foot movements to make it more like route climbing, also holding each hold over 5-6 seconds seems to be working. Also continued with Anaerobic volume by doing the 20 in 30min warm up!
Continued with flexibility and also Bolton complex which haqs improved a lot this week shoulders starting to feel good also noticed that even though the weights are light it seems to have a very positive affect on core and metabolism? seem to be leaning up quite a bit!
The power training was good and I managed to do pullups with additional 47.5kg hanging off me which is new PB. After a couple of reps you feel like your flying when you take the weight off!
Trip to Cheddar on Sunday:
Routes at Cheddar Gorge, First time here and was not inspired at first as it was cold and damp! Got on a 6a warm up on stepped wall which was fine then a 6c to the left which was fine until i pulled a hold off the top right one move from finished a gashed my thumb and took a whipper! got over it and sussed a better sequence and cleaned. decided to move to another crag so went further down the road and spotted in the sun an amazing looking wall (from distance) which is called Tsunami. Went up there and started on a 7a called Joy ride which was fine, the tried doing a 7b called Moonmilk, this was awful and there was bits falling off all over any holds i tried pulling on flaked off??? shit route dogged it to top and put clips in 7c called Hard Bass Religion good route and got two good links on it took some falls but could not suss the middle move yet either crap undercut or all out jump for okish edge need to get back on and finish. Packed up here and moved down to The Wave and tried an absolute sandbag route at apparently 6c??? called Bee Keeping in A Warzone. Terrible route and no where near the grade I couldnt get off the ground apparently move off deck is eng tech 6c? locals said 7c to right has same start and crux is start WTF. Very starange. Gave up after dgging up it and stripped. Walked down to a couple of lower routes and flashed a 7a called Raw Deal very fun route on monster holds not very hard. Spotted a great looking 7b+ called Insatiable that looks flashable next time maybe. Overall warming to Cheddar though grading is mental with soft and hard next to each other and some routes ungradeable! The rock in places is very dissappointing and talking to a local the chalky dirty climbing is part of it. Bizzarre place.
All last weeks targets hit apart from 3rd campus session on Friday but was too boxed for it. massive week volume wise and contnued my 20 problems in 30 mins above V3 again. Managed over 21 problems.No rings session as it would have been too much as I was knackered after everything else. Think I just about hit the fatigue i was looking for!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 5kg eA) as part of warm up
- injury prevention continue back and finger rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
-
This Weeks Goals:
Entering into the unloading phase so dropping the volume by 50% but intensity stays the same (PE primary, Power Secondary), so the next week I am going to try and partially recover from the volume overloading but due to my bouldering tactics going to do one campus session this week.
- 2 PE sessions doing circuits, 4x4's and AnCap work. 1 power session on campus board with no weight. 3 x core sessions. 1 core class. 3 x Bolton Complex and synergist/elbow conditioning. Need to keep intensity high as last week.
Bring on the pump!
Weight: 75.4kg
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to Goonie:
You should has said you were coming down, I'd have pointed you at some good stuff
Stepped Wall isnt the best of the road level stuff. RHS of the Tsunami has a rep for being chalky, it's not typical of Cheddar though. Have heard of the rep of that 6c, yes. Not tried it myself though.
Hope the visit doesn't put you off - there's better than that to do
You should has said you were coming down, I'd have pointed you at some good stuff
Stepped Wall isnt the best of the road level stuff. RHS of the Tsunami has a rep for being chalky, it's not typical of Cheddar though. Have heard of the rep of that 6c, yes. Not tried it myself though.
Hope the visit doesn't put you off - there's better than that to do
In reply to AJM:
Oh, and not that ive done it but my guess based on usual cheddar moves is that your 7c will boil down to using the rubbish undercut with some artful footwork
Oh, and not that ive done it but my guess based on usual cheddar moves is that your 7c will boil down to using the rubbish undercut with some artful footwork
In reply to Eagle River:
That first foray into redpointing is intoxicating and confusing. Playing to your strengths there doesn't seem to be a hard limit, just more and more time required per route. After a season of it last year (like you, no long sieges*) I still have no real idea what's realistic as a project or a time frame for a given route.
*with the exception of the wretched (and ungraded) Wetherby traverse which is now dragging on into it's 3rd season. This year...
jk
> This is my first real attempt at redpointing and I’ve really enjoyed the all the routes I’ve tried so far. Not had to properly seige anything yet (i.e. more than 3 visits) so still trying to find where my upper limit is.
That first foray into redpointing is intoxicating and confusing. Playing to your strengths there doesn't seem to be a hard limit, just more and more time required per route. After a season of it last year (like you, no long sieges*) I still have no real idea what's realistic as a project or a time frame for a given route.
*with the exception of the wretched (and ungraded) Wetherby traverse which is now dragging on into it's 3rd season. This year...
jk
In reply to AJM:
Climbed with someone new indoors and more of a consolidation week than pushing it. Did a couple of 6as (had done both before) trying to use some of what I'd been shown the week previous before i forget it all (again...). Felt easier and better paced so good signs. Want to get on with my STG of leading all the 6as - still got ~4 to do clean; and onsight possibilities for 2 of them...
Climbed with someone new indoors and more of a consolidation week than pushing it. Did a couple of 6as (had done both before) trying to use some of what I'd been shown the week previous before i forget it all (again...). Felt easier and better paced so good signs. Want to get on with my STG of leading all the 6as - still got ~4 to do clean; and onsight possibilities for 2 of them...
In reply to AJM:
Late post before I forget entirely.
Mon – Rest.
Tues – Enforced rest; intense back pain.
Wedns – Unable to move!
Thurs – Castle. Very cautious climb to investigate the possibility of getting out at the weekend.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Portland. Dogged Evening Falls on TR, then got on Keyboard Wall on TR – back mostly feeling okay.
Sun – Portland. Back on Keyboard Wall; got a sequence but there are two moves I’ve not done and several others that are very low probability.
Late post before I forget entirely.
Mon – Rest.
Tues – Enforced rest; intense back pain.
Wedns – Unable to move!
Thurs – Castle. Very cautious climb to investigate the possibility of getting out at the weekend.
Fri – Rest.
Sat – Portland. Dogged Evening Falls on TR, then got on Keyboard Wall on TR – back mostly feeling okay.
Sun – Portland. Back on Keyboard Wall; got a sequence but there are two moves I’ve not done and several others that are very low probability.
In reply to AJM: Cheers
Mon: 2k swim with Worcester Tri Club
Tue: 6k easy run at lunch, 11k fartlek in evening
Wed: Throat infection, so nothing
Thu: Likewise
Fri: Chevin Forest Park Run, 5k trail park run by torch/moonlight. 3rd Male, 22.40ish.
Sat: Few hours at Harrogate Wall.
Sun: Resurgence of throat infection, so nothing
Largely crap week due to throat infection stopping me getting out for most of it. Annoying as I had been looking forward to Heptonstall Fell Race, and we went for a short walk around there in the afternoon, with it looking like great running conditions.
Good sessions when I did get out though. For anyone who is Leeds/Yorkshire based, when it does formally kick off, the Chevin Forest Park Run is really pleasant. Very easy trail with only a little climb, and a great way to start Saturday mornings.
Mon: 2k swim with Worcester Tri Club
Tue: 6k easy run at lunch, 11k fartlek in evening
Wed: Throat infection, so nothing
Thu: Likewise
Fri: Chevin Forest Park Run, 5k trail park run by torch/moonlight. 3rd Male, 22.40ish.
Sat: Few hours at Harrogate Wall.
Sun: Resurgence of throat infection, so nothing
Largely crap week due to throat infection stopping me getting out for most of it. Annoying as I had been looking forward to Heptonstall Fell Race, and we went for a short walk around there in the afternoon, with it looking like great running conditions.
Good sessions when I did get out though. For anyone who is Leeds/Yorkshire based, when it does formally kick off, the Chevin Forest Park Run is really pleasant. Very easy trail with only a little climb, and a great way to start Saturday mornings.
In reply to AJM: cheers AJM. Onwards and upwards!
Mon - nowt
Tues - Fed up and no motivation - nowt
Weds - gym 1hr. X trainer, rower. Squat/curl/press. Deadlift, chest press, knee raises. Flood session, got my motivation back
Thurs - Leeds wall 2hrs. Led 4+ x2. Boulder 20mins at end
Fri - 22 min run outside in the sun, lovely
Sat - out with camera on Buckstones trying to get the moon
Sun - nowt
OK week, no weight loss, motivation is still up and down. Away climbing this weekend so looking forward to climbing outside
Mon - nowt
Tues - Fed up and no motivation - nowt
Weds - gym 1hr. X trainer, rower. Squat/curl/press. Deadlift, chest press, knee raises. Flood session, got my motivation back
Thurs - Leeds wall 2hrs. Led 4+ x2. Boulder 20mins at end
Fri - 22 min run outside in the sun, lovely
Sat - out with camera on Buckstones trying to get the moon
Sun - nowt
OK week, no weight loss, motivation is still up and down. Away climbing this weekend so looking forward to climbing outside
In reply to any Malham regulars:
Does anyone have a view on what the weekend weather will be like? The met office Yorkshire dales "mountain forecast" makes Saturday look a bit rubbish especially to start, with Sunday being quite nice, whilst their Skipton forecast seems fairly decent. Lacking any local knowledge I'm not sure which of these (or neither) is the one that gives the best representation of what the weather at the crag is likely to feel like...
Does anyone have a view on what the weekend weather will be like? The met office Yorkshire dales "mountain forecast" makes Saturday look a bit rubbish especially to start, with Sunday being quite nice, whilst their Skipton forecast seems fairly decent. Lacking any local knowledge I'm not sure which of these (or neither) is the one that gives the best representation of what the weather at the crag is likely to feel like...
In reply to AJM:
I generally use the BBC forecast for Settle. I looks dry with a bit of cloud for Friday-Sunday. The crag should be bone dry as there hasn't been much rain but if we get sun and not much cloud it gets a little greasy (it was last friday). However in that case the routes on the left hand side (Yosemite Wall etc) are a better bet, they were much cooler than the raindogs area routes last friday.
Looking forward to meeting all of you, I'll be there Friday and Sunday.
I generally use the BBC forecast for Settle. I looks dry with a bit of cloud for Friday-Sunday. The crag should be bone dry as there hasn't been much rain but if we get sun and not much cloud it gets a little greasy (it was last friday). However in that case the routes on the left hand side (Yosemite Wall etc) are a better bet, they were much cooler than the raindogs area routes last friday.
Looking forward to meeting all of you, I'll be there Friday and Sunday.
In reply to Eagle River:
Thanks for the beta. Sunday looks pretty decent, it's Saturday that worries me as it's a long drive for one good day - keeping fingers crossed for nice enough weather Saturday too...
Thanks for the beta. Sunday looks pretty decent, it's Saturday that worries me as it's a long drive for one good day - keeping fingers crossed for nice enough weather Saturday too...
In reply to AJM:
Provided there isn't a south to north wind it'll stay dry in the rain anyway. If last Friday is anything to go by the conditions for climbing will be better with a bit of cloud.
Provided there isn't a south to north wind it'll stay dry in the rain anyway. If last Friday is anything to go by the conditions for climbing will be better with a bit of cloud.
In reply to Eagle River:
I'm not up at Malham this weekend, but am hoping to be up there over the long wedding weekend. Maybe see you then?
I'm not up at Malham this weekend, but am hoping to be up there over the long wedding weekend. Maybe see you then?
In reply to AJM:
Just to say, I've just finished writing up the week's stats. If you post from now on, I'll do my best to corret it before posting, but no promises.
Malham regulars - I will be there this weekend (as will Curious Yellow and plexiglass_nick, who are already there). If you spot me then do come say hi - I'm mid-late 20s, just under 6 foot, brown hair, glasses, yellow sportiva rock shoes, blue osprey pack and (if we're using my rope) a blue rope in an Ikea bag, and I'll be the one dogging the crap out of your warmups - apologies in advance for that!
Just to say, I've just finished writing up the week's stats. If you post from now on, I'll do my best to corret it before posting, but no promises.
Malham regulars - I will be there this weekend (as will Curious Yellow and plexiglass_nick, who are already there). If you spot me then do come say hi - I'm mid-late 20s, just under 6 foot, brown hair, glasses, yellow sportiva rock shoes, blue osprey pack and (if we're using my rope) a blue rope in an Ikea bag, and I'll be the one dogging the crap out of your warmups - apologies in advance for that!
In reply to AJM:
M- More mileage at Blacknor. Absolutely spanked, fingers ache, back aches, arms want to drop off.
T-Back to work! Route setting and testing.
W- Route setting and testing.
T- Work then training.
F- Rest day! Wahey.
S- Work then Routes. Massive punter, fell off a 7c+ after it had linked into an easier 6b+ finish at the top 4 times...
S- Work
Need to get the head game back up because I feel like I keep giving up on routes. Puts me in a massive downer. I think this is mainly because I'm so psyched for font next week that I can't really be bothered with anything else right now...
M- More mileage at Blacknor. Absolutely spanked, fingers ache, back aches, arms want to drop off.
T-Back to work! Route setting and testing.
W- Route setting and testing.
T- Work then training.
F- Rest day! Wahey.
S- Work then Routes. Massive punter, fell off a 7c+ after it had linked into an easier 6b+ finish at the top 4 times...
S- Work
Need to get the head game back up because I feel like I keep giving up on routes. Puts me in a massive downer. I think this is mainly because I'm so psyched for font next week that I can't really be bothered with anything else right now...
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