UKC Forums - Getting better on the grit

Getting better on the grit

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The_JT 22 Mar 2011

How best to achieve this, other than simply doing more?

Monk 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT:

> How best to achieve this, other than simply doing more?

That's it. You can't replicate the subtlty indoors. The only thing that comes close is to get good on slopers.

The_JT 22 Mar 2011

In reply to Monk:

Ah. That's not what I wanted to hear, but probably true. But slopers it is then... until I end up in a more grit-centric location!

Any other ideas?

Jon Stewart 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT: Boulder! I notice your bouldering grade is V6 - I take it that's not on grit?

Most grit routes are boudler problems. There's a few stamina routes and cracks of course, but generally it's just bouldering really, but often ankle-breaky bouldering (so getting confidence and judgement sorted through experience is important too).

EeeByGum 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT: With all due respect, you won't get better on grit by climbing more on limestone or granite.

Just keep at it. It soon comes after a couple of outings.

phildavies84 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT: How about Southern Sandstone??? I like to think of it as grit wouthout the friction

gribble 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT:

And lots o' jamming! Oo, the pleasure....

Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 22 Mar 2011

In reply to Jon Stewart:

>
>
> Most grit routes are boudler problems. There's a few stamina routes and cracks of course, but generally it's just bouldering really, but often ankle-breaky bouldering

Strange way of looking at it, plenty of routes at Millstone, the Roaches, Hen Cloud, Stanage, Heptonstall, Eastby, Rylstone etc that are far from boulder problems.

Chris

Niels 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT:

Horrible slopery boulder problems is probally the best alternative. But even that...

Timmd 22 Mar 2011

In reply to Chris Craggs:

> (In reply to Jon Stewart)
> [...]
>
> Strange way of looking at it, plenty of routes at Millstone, the Roaches, Hen Cloud, Stanage, Heptonstall, Eastby, Rylstone etc that are far from boulder problems.
>
> Chris

It could be he ment bouldery in nature I guess?

OP:

Bouldering can help, but you just have to climb more on grit, the gained strength from indoor bouldering will come in handy though. Grit can sometimes just be about trusting the friction and sort of looking at the rock sideways on for any indents or blobs which can be used as holds.

Cheers
Tim

Timmd 22 Mar 2011

In reply to The_JT:

Holds aren't always immediately obvious is what I mean by that, it just takes a little bit of practice.

Tim

Jon Stewart 22 Mar 2011

In reply to Chris Craggs: Yeah I suppose so. I guess I tend to think of quarried grit as 'not really grit' when people say they can't climb grit.

But yes, I agree, on natural grit, cracks are not boulder problems. But even a 'big' route like Five Finger Exercise is really two boulder problems. And a lot of Stanage routes boil down to one or two hard moves between rests.