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first E1

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 Madders 27 Mar 2011
I'm going for it at last! What do you rekon Left unconquerable or flying buttress direct?

Cheers

Neil
 Yanis Nayu 27 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders: According to Chris Craggs FBD is HVS.
 AndyE9 27 Mar 2011
as mentioned Flying buttress direct is a Hvs . . I just did my first E1 last week, I went for Easter rib was exciting and scary , but a bit run out.. good luck
 stvredmond 27 Mar 2011
In reply to AndyE9: did mine this weekend and went for milsoms minions, pretty bold lower section but the holds are there and the supposed crux if very well protected.

out of the two you mentioned, definately left unconquorable as theres no discrepency over the grade unlike FBD
 AndyE9 27 Mar 2011


Milsoms minions ,was on my short list..lol...
 Phill Mitch 27 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders: I did left unconcerable as my first and would recomend it as yours. Flying butress could get messy if you don't have the experience.
 LakesWinter 27 Mar 2011
In reply to AndyE9: Millsoms is pretty easy and as long as you don't fall off the 5a bit at the start is quite safe.

Other decent ones could be Mississippi Varient Direct if you're about 5ft 11 or more, fair but not too hard at E1. Similarly Morrison's Redoubt next door is well protected 5a after the first bit and is most enjoyable.

That's very Peakcentric like most stuff on these forums. In the Lakes Do Not Direct is a good first E1, well protected 5b crack on pitch one and sustained 5a on pitch 2.
 Jonny2vests 27 Mar 2011
In reply to AndyE9:
> as mentioned Flying buttress direct is a Hvs . . I just did my first E1 last week, I went for Easter rib was exciting and scary , but a bit run out.. good luck

Whilst some reckon FBD to be HVS, at the end of the day, its harder to onsight than Left Unconquerable and bags of other E1s.

Left Unconquerable I'd say is the perfect first E1; mega classic, safe, almost cruxless, not nails, but not super soft either.
 The Pylon King 27 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders:

Left Unconquerable definitely - proper E1
 teflonpete 27 Mar 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to AndyE9)
> [...]
>
> Whilst some reckon FBD to be HVS, at the end of the day, its harder to onsight than Left Unconquerable and bags of other E1s.
>
> Left Unconquerable I'd say is the perfect first E1; mega classic, safe, almost cruxless, not nails, but not super soft either.


Having failed on the crux twice and seen others fail on it too, I wouldn't say it's almost cruxless. Well protected and definitely a better bet than FBD for a first E1 though.
 Jonny2vests 27 Mar 2011
In reply to teflonpete:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
> [...]
>
>
> Having failed on the crux twice and seen others fail on it too, I wouldn't say it's almost cruxless. Well protected and definitely a better bet than FBD for a first E1 though.

So you would call it cruxy? I'm surprised you found it hard twice (unless you ran out of juice). Are you talking about the barn doory move? That move is more about where you put your feet rather than it being 'harder' IMO.
 Jon Stewart 28 Mar 2011
In reply to jonny2vests: I'd call it cruxy too. The bottom part is more like VS, then there's a 5b crux above a naff rest. Bottom end E1 I guess, but much easier than a tough HVS crack like Terrazza Crack for example.
 Jonny2vests 28 Mar 2011
In reply to Jon Stewart:

Fair enough, we disagree.

And I think the fact that you regard TC as harder says more about our respective strengths and weaknesses as much as anything else.
 Monk 28 Mar 2011
Another vote for Left Unconquearble having a definite crux - the transition between the crack and the buckets is definitely a harder move than any other part. Personally, while it's not a bad route for a first E1, I don't think it's that easy and it's annoying if you blow it first time (as I did). I refused to dog it so lowered off to return at a (much) later date, when I had done loads of E1s and I still found it pretty tricky.

To the OP: My first E1 was Strapiombante at Froggatt. If you have some decent bouldering strength, then this might be an option. My favourinte grit E1 is Long Tall Sally though. I love that route.
 teflonpete 28 Mar 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:
> (In reply to teflonpete)
> [...]
>
> So you would call it cruxy? I'm surprised you found it hard twice (unless you ran out of juice). Are you talking about the barn doory move? That move is more about where you put your feet rather than it being 'harder' IMO.

Yes, the barn doory move, crap footwork the first time and out of juice on a bad day the second time. Up to the rest before that bit did only feel around VS though.
Either way, great route and looking forward to another go this year.
 Bulls Crack 28 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders:

My first E1 was Sirplum in Cheedale - if you're looking for something a bit wild!

Don't know what the in-situ stuff is like now though
 J B Oughton 28 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders: My first was hanging slab at Hobby Moor - seriously pumpy for E1, but nothing too desperate and solid - if a bit spaced - gear.
Did Embankment 3 the next day at millstone and found it a lot more enjoyable!
 Phill Mitch 28 Mar 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack:Are you serious!
 Stefan Kruger 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders:

Always a tricky question, this - what makes a "good first E1"? If you have a steady head, and happy to run it out, Easter Rib would be a doddle. However, most people looking for a first E1 probably mean that to be a safe first E1. Left Unconquerable is a great benchmark E1. Not the easiest, but certainly safe. It's a good choice. Safety Net is another one that often is suggested. Long Tall Sally is also bandied about as a good first E1, although it's not a push-over. The grit E1s are mostly spot on when it comes to grading - the elusive 'soft' E1s are few and far between, unless you go for something very run-out. Strapiombante at Froggatt is safe, but I doubt many genuine first-E1 climbers manage that one on sight.

LU is a good, honest, safe fight. No one will say "yeah but it's soft".
 Bulls Crack 29 Mar 2011
In reply to phill mitchell:

Well, I did say it would be wild! It was certainly memorable

I can't remember exactly but maybe I was lookin for something a bit longer and more substantial than your average grit route...runs away!
 Dave Garnett 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Stefan Kruger:

> LU is a good, honest, safe fight. No one will say "yeah but it's soft".


But is it any good? Despite being well into my fourth decade of Peak gritstone (not continuously, I have climbed elsewhere), I seem to have somehow missed Left Unconquerable.

In reply to phill mitchell: Sirplum is not hard apart from the move off the ledge, it's just intimidating.

Al
 Michael Hood 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Stefan Kruger: Surely Strapiombante is soft for E1 since it was quite happy at HVS 5b in a couple of guidebooks. The gear's there, you can work out what to do from the ground, crux nicely at the end. It's just a bit steeper than you're expecting.
 Mick Ward 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Dave Garnett:
> (In reply to Stefan Kruger)

> But is it any good?

It's beautiful.

Mick
 Keendan 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:

a bit??!
It's incredibly pumpy compared to how it looks from the ground.
I know more people who have melted off it than have topped out.

Still, a good safe E1 and a test of guts on the last move.
 Mick Ward 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

Agree Sirplum's not hard, Al, but most folk wouldn't want to be doing it for their first E1. 'The Sloth Factor' - (relatively) easy but quite intimidating. Didn't Henry Barber do it for his first route on limestone? Mind you, he was going well at the time!

Mick
 jkarran 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

> Sirplum is not hard apart from the move off the ledge, it's just intimidating.

It's long, steep, sustained, serious in places, near impossible to bail off, out of sight of the belayer, really quite rattly (probably worse after this winter) and the hard move off the ledge really is quite hard on friable rock. It's not exactly 3 Pebble Slab or Hotline.

jk
 Monk 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Michael Hood:
> (In reply to Stefan Kruger) Surely Strapiombante is soft for E1 since it was quite happy at HVS 5b in a couple of guidebooks. The gear's there, you can work out what to do from the ground, crux nicely at the end. It's just a bit steeper than you're expecting.

It must have been a long time since that was given HVS! Certainly pre-90s. It was my first E1, and I still think that it is worth the grade. It's short, but it puts up a good fight.
 Alex@home 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Monk:

i've climbed strapiombante a few times now and know the moves and the gear and it's still hard work. on my first go i got pumped beyond belief and it was all i could do to finish it after a long rest on the rope. agree that it's safe and good fun but there aren't any rests where you can plan what you're going to do and that alone would, i suspect, defeat many people looking to move up from hvs to e1.

as for long tall sally, i did it last night for the first time in a few years and i just don't understand why it's recommended as a good first e1. it's got a hard and bold start that is slippery and tricky to read. the placements are becoming very worn and, whilst probably ok, do not inspire total confidence, and the crux is very unobvious unless you're a very good technical climber - and most people moving up from hvs don't have the experience to read moves like that. that said it's still a great route.

somethings that are safe and not ridiculously pumpy that would, imo, make for a good first e1
grit - Left Unconquerable, Safety Net
limestone - Dead Banana Crack, Bicycle Repair Man
 Bulls Crack 29 Mar 2011
In reply to jkarran:
> (In reply to Al Randall)
>
> [...]
>
> It's long, steep, sustained, serious in places, near impossible to bail off, out of sight of the belayer, really quite rattly (probably worse after this winter) and the hard move off the ledge really is quite hard on friable rock. It's not exactly 3 Pebble Slab or Hotline.
>
> jk

Aye - proper E1

Not impossible to bail out but awkward. If bailing out - untie from one rope if possible, pull through and then ab/lower. Or prussik back up the rope, pull one rope etc etc Well that's what a mate did i think
 Jonny2vests 29 Mar 2011
In reply to jkarran:
> (In reply to Al Randall)
>
> [...]
>
> It's long, steep, sustained, serious in places, near impossible to bail off, out of sight of the belayer, really quite rattly (probably worse after this winter) and the hard move off the ledge really is quite hard on friable rock. It's not exactly 3 Pebble Slab or Hotline.
>
> jk

Lol, I thought it was easier than 3PS.

FWIW, being only 4 foot and a fag packet gives you quite a jaded view of graded lists; Auricle / Telli = almost impossible, Regent Street / Twikker = piss.
In reply to Mick Ward: I wasn't recommending it as a first E1, I was just countering someone elses comments about its difficulty.

I did it in the late sixties/early seventies so I'm willing to admit I could be wrong but my recollection is intimidating: yes, serious: most definitely, overhanging: considerably but the only hard bit I can remember was the start.
For a steady E1 leader it's well!!! E1

Al
 goli 29 Mar 2011
In reply to Madders: The Vice........no arguments about the grade there!!!!
 Chris Craggs Global Crag Moderator 29 Mar 2011
In reply to oliverg:
> (In reply to Madders) The Vice........no arguments about the grade there!!!!

Except for those who swear it is HVS.

Chris

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