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Checking in from a somewhat grey Malham campsite - the catwalk is calling...
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (210) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=452296
Repeat posters - 37
AJM
Daniel Heath - sounds like a pretty mental day Saturday. Did the cam pull, or break rock on the way out?
TonyB - sounds like really good progress on that 7B - you sound psyched too which is good!
Neils - I find readjusting to the outdoors after a winter indoors is always tough. Stick with it and you'll get there.
Nexonen - hope the illness is well and truly gone
petestack - sounds like a couple of interesting books there. Glad the trails are back in condition - you sound pretty psyched
Eagle River - awesome day out Friday, lots of good ticking there. Good to meet you Sunday
mattrm - steady progress on the leading
Mike Nolan - a couple of good sessions indoors, but it sounds like you do need to get that mileage under youre belt to perform at your potential outside
Thickhead - sounds like a good run Sunday...
grubes - bit of a quieter week this week after last wek's achievements
The New NickB - bittersweet result - you beat one goal but sounds like you were feeling you could have done better - tough one
karen87 - hope the cold has gone
richardh - sounds like good progress on the routes Sunday
biscuit - looks like an ace crag. And from your other posts this week it sounds like youre using the time limits as a positive to really push it for Comedy
andy farnell - good to meet you Sunday, glad you were making progress on the route
agibb - glad the fingers on the mend
Steve John B - sounds like a good week of recovery training
Mark Torrance - well done on hitting the 60 mile rolling - nice one
JimmyKay - excellent day at Brean!
Eric the Red - did you race?
ayuplass - sounds like a good week - progress on Mon, trad at the weekend - a "very different" though - what was so different
chris05 - looks like a pretty good training week, even if you did go paddling round in the sea rather than climbing
Humperdink - sounds like a good week with no shin issues and a couple of fast mile intervals
jkarran - you might have to explain the 6 inch fall almost knocking you out, sounds like a potential story there. Good to see progress on the traverse too
Liam M - I wish work would tell me I didn't need to be in for a week! And it looks like you grabbed the chance with both hands too......
Curious Yellow - great weekend wasn't it. Lets hope when I post this that its in the midst of a similarly successful one
Kevster - could have been an entertaining error that one, but glad it wasn't. Great crag that one.
Jeriqo - steady week. Glad you had the weather with you at the weekend
leon - sounds like good progress even amidst an interrupted week
seankenny - hope the Portland weekend worked out for you - not long til Verdon now...
fimm - sounds like a couple of good sessions there, Sunday must have been nice when you checked the distance
Shauna - its definitely time for after work climbing to start really isn't it
Steve Perry (Pezz) - enjoy Font!
Stone_Donkey - sounds like more focus needed there...
catt - bad luck on the finger. You've got biscuit as a role model for positivity though so I have high expectations of your recovery period
Goonie - sounds like some pretty hard 4x4s, good stuff
Absentees (as at Thursday evening) - 1
viking - Berlin
Returners - 6
Sankey - sounds like a great trip up North
Murd - welcome back, glad you survived tour
andy - sounds like a good week, lots of volume
plexiglass_nick - black marks for absence saved by a great couple of weeks of performance. Nice one.
IainRUK - bad luck on the race result.....
Miles - excellent work on the 6c+, good job on the 7a too
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (210) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=452296
Repeat posters - 37
AJM
Daniel Heath - sounds like a pretty mental day Saturday. Did the cam pull, or break rock on the way out?
TonyB - sounds like really good progress on that 7B - you sound psyched too which is good!
Neils - I find readjusting to the outdoors after a winter indoors is always tough. Stick with it and you'll get there.
Nexonen - hope the illness is well and truly gone
petestack - sounds like a couple of interesting books there. Glad the trails are back in condition - you sound pretty psyched
Eagle River - awesome day out Friday, lots of good ticking there. Good to meet you Sunday
mattrm - steady progress on the leading
Mike Nolan - a couple of good sessions indoors, but it sounds like you do need to get that mileage under youre belt to perform at your potential outside
Thickhead - sounds like a good run Sunday...
grubes - bit of a quieter week this week after last wek's achievements
The New NickB - bittersweet result - you beat one goal but sounds like you were feeling you could have done better - tough one
karen87 - hope the cold has gone
richardh - sounds like good progress on the routes Sunday
biscuit - looks like an ace crag. And from your other posts this week it sounds like youre using the time limits as a positive to really push it for Comedy
andy farnell - good to meet you Sunday, glad you were making progress on the route
agibb - glad the fingers on the mend
Steve John B - sounds like a good week of recovery training
Mark Torrance - well done on hitting the 60 mile rolling - nice one
JimmyKay - excellent day at Brean!
Eric the Red - did you race?
ayuplass - sounds like a good week - progress on Mon, trad at the weekend - a "very different" though - what was so different
chris05 - looks like a pretty good training week, even if you did go paddling round in the sea rather than climbing
Humperdink - sounds like a good week with no shin issues and a couple of fast mile intervals
jkarran - you might have to explain the 6 inch fall almost knocking you out, sounds like a potential story there. Good to see progress on the traverse too
Liam M - I wish work would tell me I didn't need to be in for a week! And it looks like you grabbed the chance with both hands too......
Curious Yellow - great weekend wasn't it. Lets hope when I post this that its in the midst of a similarly successful one
Kevster - could have been an entertaining error that one, but glad it wasn't. Great crag that one.
Jeriqo - steady week. Glad you had the weather with you at the weekend
leon - sounds like good progress even amidst an interrupted week
seankenny - hope the Portland weekend worked out for you - not long til Verdon now...
fimm - sounds like a couple of good sessions there, Sunday must have been nice when you checked the distance
Shauna - its definitely time for after work climbing to start really isn't it
Steve Perry (Pezz) - enjoy Font!
Stone_Donkey - sounds like more focus needed there...
catt - bad luck on the finger. You've got biscuit as a role model for positivity though so I have high expectations of your recovery period
Goonie - sounds like some pretty hard 4x4s, good stuff
Absentees (as at Thursday evening) - 1
viking - Berlin
Returners - 6
Sankey - sounds like a great trip up North
Murd - welcome back, glad you survived tour
andy - sounds like a good week, lots of volume
plexiglass_nick - black marks for absence saved by a great couple of weeks of performance. Nice one.
IainRUK - bad luck on the race result.....
Miles - excellent work on the 6c+, good job on the 7a too
In reply to AJM:
The cam broke a little flake of rock off, about 3x1 inches. A good lesson in how much to trust rotten flakes! I'm very glad I followed EZ's advice not to put a cam in the large flake - could have wrecked myself and the route.
M-Boulder session
T-Army Fitness Test. 1.5mile in 8:32. Happy with this.
W-Rest
T-
F-
S-20 close arm press ups and 12 wide pull ups every hour. Interesting experiment. Aching a bit now.
S-Hopefully wide arm press ups.
Not especially proud of this week. Been winding down at the end of Uni. Need to train now I'm at home.
Cheers,
Dan
The cam broke a little flake of rock off, about 3x1 inches. A good lesson in how much to trust rotten flakes! I'm very glad I followed EZ's advice not to put a cam in the large flake - could have wrecked myself and the route.
M-Boulder session
T-Army Fitness Test. 1.5mile in 8:32. Happy with this.
W-Rest
T-
F-
S-20 close arm press ups and 12 wide pull ups every hour. Interesting experiment. Aching a bit now.
S-Hopefully wide arm press ups.
Not especially proud of this week. Been winding down at the end of Uni. Need to train now I'm at home.
Cheers,
Dan
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, but.... This week has been pretty bad. I got back on the 7B on Monday. I was working the moves and crunch! I'm not sure exactly what I did to my finger but it wasn't good. Ice, rest and it's feeling better now. Font in two weeks. I think the next two weeks will just be about healing it. The snow is melting fast but the forecast is really poor. I haven't touched rock since my Malta trip over the new year and it's awful looking out the window at a grey dripping weekend.
Tony
> TonyB - sounds like really good progress on that 7B - you sound psyched too which is good!
Thanks Andy, but.... This week has been pretty bad. I got back on the 7B on Monday. I was working the moves and crunch! I'm not sure exactly what I did to my finger but it wasn't good. Ice, rest and it's feeling better now. Font in two weeks. I think the next two weeks will just be about healing it. The snow is melting fast but the forecast is really poor. I haven't touched rock since my Malta trip over the new year and it's awful looking out the window at a grey dripping weekend.
Tony
In reply to AJM:
Ta Andy,
A week which injury has held back. Hurt my back in a fall on Weds. Can.t twist much or pull hard at all.
All the same, found myself on 2 7a's on saturday. Scuppered on the overhangs trying to pull.
Mon
Tues: Indoors Did hard red and hard grey @ harlow, 1 fall each route
Wed: Injured
Thur
Fri
Sat: Portland: Tried to keep to low grade stuff in 6's. Tried a 7a which couldn't do, though know it would usually go. Then went to "master bates" area, climbed a 7a (Kite mark) by mistake thinking it was a 6b+. Doh! Got to the top but rested, a hard to onsighe little number I think.
Sun: Jealous of the weather and not being out or on full form!!!!
Cheers all!
Hopefully be back on in next weekend once recovered. Might be looking for partners...
Cheers! Kev
Ta Andy,
A week which injury has held back. Hurt my back in a fall on Weds. Can.t twist much or pull hard at all.
All the same, found myself on 2 7a's on saturday. Scuppered on the overhangs trying to pull.
Mon
Tues: Indoors Did hard red and hard grey @ harlow, 1 fall each route
Wed: Injured
Thur
Fri
Sat: Portland: Tried to keep to low grade stuff in 6's. Tried a 7a which couldn't do, though know it would usually go. Then went to "master bates" area, climbed a 7a (Kite mark) by mistake thinking it was a 6b+. Doh! Got to the top but rested, a hard to onsighe little number I think.
Sun: Jealous of the weather and not being out or on full form!!!!
Cheers all!
Hopefully be back on in next weekend once recovered. Might be looking for partners...
Cheers! Kev
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but hope to push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg (achieved) down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:08. Sub 40 minute 10k (achieved), Sub 1:30 half marathon (achieved).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3:00 Marathon and fast times in long fell races.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 5.5 miles hilly trail / road run with club.
Wednesday - Hilly 5k road race (19:21).
Thursday - Recce of Wardle Skyline fell race route (7 miles).
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - South Manchester Parkrun (19:04).
Sunday - Radcliffe Trail Race (43:15).
Reached the end of my short term target timescale, so time for a little review. Achieved the weight loss, the sub 40 10k and the sub 1:30 half marathon, not quite achieved the sub 19 5k, getting very close and confident that I will. Finding that I am quite self critical even I achieve my targets, but I guess that is just part of striving to be better. Have raced a lot recently and am maybe feeling a bit fatigued, going to just enjoy my running for a few weeks and not rush into setting short term targets.
Thanks Andy
My training is almost entirely focused on running, with climbing more something I just enjoy and don't take too seriously these days. I want to get back to the sort of fitness I had in my early 20s, getting on for 15 years ago, when I weighed around 65kg and ran a 17 minute 5k and sub 35 minute 10k. Not sure I will regain all the speed, but hope to push the endurance, which I never really managed as a youngster
STG (End of March): Weight down to below 70kg (achieved) down from 80kg in July. Sub 19 minute 5k, current SB of 19:08. Sub 40 minute 10k (achieved), Sub 1:30 half marathon (achieved).
MTG (End of the year): Sub 18 minute 5k, sub 38 minute 10k, Sub 1:24 half marathon (Macclesfield in September).
LTG (2012): Sub 3:00 Marathon and fast times in long fell races.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - 5.5 miles hilly trail / road run with club.
Wednesday - Hilly 5k road race (19:21).
Thursday - Recce of Wardle Skyline fell race route (7 miles).
Friday - Rest.
Saturday - South Manchester Parkrun (19:04).
Sunday - Radcliffe Trail Race (43:15).
Reached the end of my short term target timescale, so time for a little review. Achieved the weight loss, the sub 40 10k and the sub 1:30 half marathon, not quite achieved the sub 19 5k, getting very close and confident that I will. Finding that I am quite self critical even I achieve my targets, but I guess that is just part of striving to be better. Have raced a lot recently and am maybe feeling a bit fatigued, going to just enjoy my running for a few weeks and not rush into setting short term targets.
In reply to AJM:
Tues : Citybloc - battered from Sunday really, did an easy round of all the low grade stuff then some grey V3/V4s. OK
Thus : couldn't get car, so indoors, Depot, was hot and sticky and I was sub par, really limp session, toddled off home. I think outdoor-season wall-apathy is here.
Sat : Trollers, cold on the fingers, put clips in then RP Cold Turkey first try, pleased with that, an early tricky 7b for the season, got back on haslam which still felt tricky at the top.
first tick of the year, ok.
Tues : Citybloc - battered from Sunday really, did an easy round of all the low grade stuff then some grey V3/V4s. OK
Thus : couldn't get car, so indoors, Depot, was hot and sticky and I was sub par, really limp session, toddled off home. I think outdoor-season wall-apathy is here.
Sat : Trollers, cold on the fingers, put clips in then RP Cold Turkey first try, pleased with that, an early tricky 7b for the season, got back on haslam which still felt tricky at the top.
first tick of the year, ok.
In reply to AJM:
Mon: bouldering at wall
Tue: rest
Wed: bouldering at wall
Thurs: bouldering at home
Fri: Soloing/bouldering at almscliff. first proper solos ie not just high bouldering.
Sat: skiing (well travelling)
Sun: skiing (v. shit conditions)
Might not be able to post next week, may still be away skiing. Will see.
Mon: bouldering at wall
Tue: rest
Wed: bouldering at wall
Thurs: bouldering at home
Fri: Soloing/bouldering at almscliff. first proper solos ie not just high bouldering.
Sat: skiing (well travelling)
Sun: skiing (v. shit conditions)
Might not be able to post next week, may still be away skiing. Will see.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy. This week - not so good.
Mon to Sat - bog all
Sun - 10 mile / 1,000' run on moor. Ran non-stop for 4 miles uphill (450' approx) - normally walk sections, stop and faff, look around etc (even in races!). Made it a nice challenge.
> Steve John B - sounds like a good week of recovery training
Thanks Andy. This week - not so good.
Mon to Sat - bog all
Sun - 10 mile / 1,000' run on moor. Ran non-stop for 4 miles uphill (450' approx) - normally walk sections, stop and faff, look around etc (even in races!). Made it a nice challenge.
Busy week this week as we are currently moving house so lots of painting etc to do! Managed to get some miles in tho
Mon - nowt
Tue - nowt
Wed - 4 miler
Thu - 6 miles on the road
Fri - nothing
Sat - 8 miles hilly road run
Sun - 12 miles trail run around gwydyr, got absolutely soaked!
Will have to spread my runs out more as i had to cram them in over the weekend, otherwise glad to get 30 miles
Mon - nowt
Tue - nowt
Wed - 4 miler
Thu - 6 miles on the road
Fri - nothing
Sat - 8 miles hilly road run
Sun - 12 miles trail run around gwydyr, got absolutely soaked!
Will have to spread my runs out more as i had to cram them in over the weekend, otherwise glad to get 30 miles
In reply to AJM: Thanks, AJM.
First week of taper and reduced mileage but some decent speed midweek, and a lovely long pootle to end it.
M: 5m steady
T: 10m round Hyde and Green Park. Ran a lap slow then a second lap of Hyde Park with 4x1km efforts at 3:50, 3:50, 3:46 and 3:41.
W: Nowt
T: 5m coastwards from Newcastle - a bit grim going that way, but very comfortable at 7:30 pace.
F: Rest
S: 16m down the Dales Way from Grassington to Ilkley - part of a club relay event. Very slow but lovely.
S: Mothers' Day - feck all.
First week of taper and reduced mileage but some decent speed midweek, and a lovely long pootle to end it.
M: 5m steady
T: 10m round Hyde and Green Park. Ran a lap slow then a second lap of Hyde Park with 4x1km efforts at 3:50, 3:50, 3:46 and 3:41.
W: Nowt
T: 5m coastwards from Newcastle - a bit grim going that way, but very comfortable at 7:30 pace.
F: Rest
S: 16m down the Dales Way from Grassington to Ilkley - part of a club relay event. Very slow but lovely.
S: Mothers' Day - feck all.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, hope you had a good weekend away. The Portland trip was great, well psyched for another trip down there this coming weekend.
Mon - Tues: Still knackered from weekend away.
Wed - Sun: Flu and general under-the-weatherness.
Not a great week but at least I've been giving my fingers some rest and ice-water treatment to keep them running smoothly. For various reasons I was only expecting to do one day's climbing this week so not as bad a write-off as it might appear. Totally shagged out right now but hopefully better by the middle of the week...
Thanks Andy, hope you had a good weekend away. The Portland trip was great, well psyched for another trip down there this coming weekend.
Mon - Tues: Still knackered from weekend away.
Wed - Sun: Flu and general under-the-weatherness.
Not a great week but at least I've been giving my fingers some rest and ice-water treatment to keep them running smoothly. For various reasons I was only expecting to do one day's climbing this week so not as bad a write-off as it might appear. Totally shagged out right now but hopefully better by the middle of the week...
In reply to AJM: Rip it up at Malham!
Good week, boosted running mileage and got the outdoor bouldering season on the go
M: Ran 5 miles
T: Ran 7.7 miles
W:
T: Bouldering at Curbar : New V3 ticked
F:
S: Ran 9.7 miles
S: Bouldering at Eagle Stone :
all bar last move of the V3 traverse anyone know how to finish the bit under the roof?! Also got involved on the V6 "egg-shell" crimps problem, then Stanage briefly before the deluge
STG: Font fitness
MTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Good week, boosted running mileage and got the outdoor bouldering season on the go
M: Ran 5 miles
T: Ran 7.7 miles
W:
T: Bouldering at Curbar : New V3 ticked
F:
S: Ran 9.7 miles
S: Bouldering at Eagle Stone :
all bar last move of the V3 traverse anyone know how to finish the bit under the roof?! Also got involved on the V6 "egg-shell" crimps problem, then Stanage briefly before the deluge
STG: Font fitness
MTG: Half marathon < 2 hours in May + Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy
Goals as before
Mon - rest
Tues - Volume bouldering at the Hangar, did lots of the new white circuit, felt jaded
Wed - rest
Thurs - good 45 min fingerboard session
Fri - Spent the night being woken every 30 mins by the baby vomiting.
Sat - should have been Malham but took the little one to Hospital. Diagnosed with Gastroenteritis. Did get a session at the Hangar, did the new purple (V3-5)circuit, but failed to flash a few, probably due to the lack of sleep.
Sun - family meal.
Andy F
Goals as before
Mon - rest
Tues - Volume bouldering at the Hangar, did lots of the new white circuit, felt jaded
Wed - rest
Thurs - good 45 min fingerboard session
Fri - Spent the night being woken every 30 mins by the baby vomiting.
Sat - should have been Malham but took the little one to Hospital. Diagnosed with Gastroenteritis. Did get a session at the Hangar, did the new purple (V3-5)circuit, but failed to flash a few, probably due to the lack of sleep.
Sun - family meal.
Andy F
In reply to AJM:
Busy week, so (relatively) low mileage.
M: 3mile road run 24mins
T: 3.5mile trail run
W: 4.5mile trail run
T: 7mile trail/beach run
F: Nothing
S: 18mile trail run Great Orme x4 and Little Orme 2hrs36mins
S: 5mile trail/fell run Sychnant 40mins (9min mile up, 7min mile down)
5 more working days, then holiday before London.
Busy week, so (relatively) low mileage.
M: 3mile road run 24mins
T: 3.5mile trail run
W: 4.5mile trail run
T: 7mile trail/beach run
F: Nothing
S: 18mile trail run Great Orme x4 and Little Orme 2hrs36mins
S: 5mile trail/fell run Sychnant 40mins (9min mile up, 7min mile down)
5 more working days, then holiday before London.
In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM.
Bad week. Injured my left hand ring finger on a V7/8 on Monday. Not climbed since then! Really annoyed, it was slightly ovrhanging and on poor holds and I was one move from finishing it, so pretty good for me as iI'm useless on overhangs!
I've been icing everyday and massaging. Finger feels a lot better, still slightly stiff and hurts in certain positions, but I can move it and put weight onto it. I'll probably try climbing some easy boulder problems outside tomorrow and indoors on Thursday.
Mike
Bad week. Injured my left hand ring finger on a V7/8 on Monday. Not climbed since then! Really annoyed, it was slightly ovrhanging and on poor holds and I was one move from finishing it, so pretty good for me as iI'm useless on overhangs!
I've been icing everyday and massaging. Finger feels a lot better, still slightly stiff and hurts in certain positions, but I can move it and put weight onto it. I'll probably try climbing some easy boulder problems outside tomorrow and indoors on Thursday.
Mike
In reply to andy farnell:
Hope the little one is better soon Andy.
Commiserations to those sporting injuries too - looks like it's been a bad week for Fit Club fingers and other body parts...
Taking a break mid drive home from another good but brutalising Malham weekend - will post more detail in an hour or two when I get back.
Andy
Hope the little one is better soon Andy.
Commiserations to those sporting injuries too - looks like it's been a bad week for Fit Club fingers and other body parts...
Taking a break mid drive home from another good but brutalising Malham weekend - will post more detail in an hour or two when I get back.
Andy
Thanks AJM, I raced yep.
M: nothing
T: run to and from gym (2 miles) and spin (45 mins, hard)
Decided not to do any more. Ankle really hurt on the opposite side to the sprain, things were clearly a bit screwed in there still. Cycling was fine.
W: rest, balancing
T: rest, balancing
F: rest, balancing. Drive to Peak
S: 40 mile race across the Peak. 9 hrs 23 minutes. Over half an hour off the pb but the rest of the team weren't as fit as before and I was struggling on the downs. Nowhere near a trophy but 12th out of 115 teams so not too bad! Very hot day.
I'm really pleased with the two goals. One to get through the race without turning the ankle again and two to go under 10 hours. Ankle very swollen today but then the other one's puffy too. Will rest, ice for a few days and get back to gentle running.
STG: continue gently building mileage for another week or so until ankle is totally right. My distance performance over 40 miles was very surprising considering my lack of training so I'm going to find another ultra to do on my own to really test myself.
M: nothing
T: run to and from gym (2 miles) and spin (45 mins, hard)
Decided not to do any more. Ankle really hurt on the opposite side to the sprain, things were clearly a bit screwed in there still. Cycling was fine.
W: rest, balancing
T: rest, balancing
F: rest, balancing. Drive to Peak
S: 40 mile race across the Peak. 9 hrs 23 minutes. Over half an hour off the pb but the rest of the team weren't as fit as before and I was struggling on the downs. Nowhere near a trophy but 12th out of 115 teams so not too bad! Very hot day.
I'm really pleased with the two goals. One to get through the race without turning the ankle again and two to go under 10 hours. Ankle very swollen today but then the other one's puffy too. Will rest, ice for a few days and get back to gentle running.
STG: continue gently building mileage for another week or so until ankle is totally right. My distance performance over 40 miles was very surprising considering my lack of training so I'm going to find another ultra to do on my own to really test myself.
In reply to AJM:
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus: Hypertrophy 1/3
Mon: Pull-ups(31), Antagonistic. Core(212)
Tue: Repeaters(33).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Repeaters(40).
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Back&Chest(191). Core(297)
Sun: Repeaters(48).
STG next week: Repeaters 50.
MTG : Repeaters 190 for the period.
STG:
MTG:
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Weight: 9'11", 11.2% fat.
Focus: Hypertrophy 1/3
Mon: Pull-ups(31), Antagonistic. Core(212)
Tue: Repeaters(33).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Repeaters(40).
Fri: Nowt.
Sat: Back&Chest(191). Core(297)
Sun: Repeaters(48).
STG next week: Repeaters 50.
MTG : Repeaters 190 for the period.
In reply to AJM:
An ok week again, cold has gone and feeling better generally so that's good. Finding the new problems at the wall difficult, on the V2/V4 circuit there are problems which I can flash, but others than I can't even get on, not an in between at the moment, but its a working progress!
M - General boulder problems/25 minute traverse around the route room - trying to work on stamina
T - R
W - R
T - Ticked a V2 and V2/V4 project/Repeaters and pull ups on the walls new fingerboard
F - Out canoeing for half the day
S - Repeated problems on V0/V4 circuit for ~45 minutes/played on fingerboard at home, nothing too serious
S - R
An ok week again, cold has gone and feeling better generally so that's good. Finding the new problems at the wall difficult, on the V2/V4 circuit there are problems which I can flash, but others than I can't even get on, not an in between at the moment, but its a working progress!
M - General boulder problems/25 minute traverse around the route room - trying to work on stamina
T - R
W - R
T - Ticked a V2 and V2/V4 project/Repeaters and pull ups on the walls new fingerboard
F - Out canoeing for half the day
S - Repeated problems on V0/V4 circuit for ~45 minutes/played on fingerboard at home, nothing too serious
S - R
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (7/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lbs
M - W - Rest
T - Stretches and exercise - 20 mins
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Stretches and exercise - 20 mins
Meant to go swimming this week, but didn't. I dieted fairly well till the weekend, when I had a big chinese. Been a bit of a crap week, personal stuff has got in the way. My gran was taken seriously ill. Been visiting her all weekend and thankfully she's a lot better. Hope to get out swimming this week and the wife is talking about re-starting yoga, which I fancy trying. Also hoping to go out tradding mid-week. Planning on repeating some HS routes to get more of a confidence boost.
Thanks AJM.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (7/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lbs
M - W - Rest
T - Stretches and exercise - 20 mins
F - Rest
S - Rest
S - Stretches and exercise - 20 mins
Meant to go swimming this week, but didn't. I dieted fairly well till the weekend, when I had a big chinese. Been a bit of a crap week, personal stuff has got in the way. My gran was taken seriously ill. Been visiting her all weekend and thankfully she's a lot better. Hope to get out swimming this week and the wife is talking about re-starting yoga, which I fancy trying. Also hoping to go out tradding mid-week. Planning on repeating some HS routes to get more of a confidence boost.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. just a little
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Holmfirth Circuit
T: Football training. Felt good nice session
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. the farewell session
T: Rokt free taster session. 2 hours indoor bouldering
F: Rest
S: Tremadog Lead onsight 1xS 1xVD. easy routes taking beginners outside climbing for the first time
S: Tremadog onsight solo'd Christmas Curry. Lead the first pitch of a S and a VD. but escaped due to weather and tired partners
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Nice week 1 day off exercise need a rest day tomorrow.
> grubes - bit of a quieter week this week after last wek's achievements
Thanks AJM. just a little
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Holmfirth Circuit
T: Football training. Felt good nice session
W: Hudds Wall. 3:00hours. the farewell session
T: Rokt free taster session. 2 hours indoor bouldering
F: Rest
S: Tremadog Lead onsight 1xS 1xVD. easy routes taking beginners outside climbing for the first time
S: Tremadog onsight solo'd Christmas Curry. Lead the first pitch of a S and a VD. but escaped due to weather and tired partners
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Nice week 1 day off exercise need a rest day tomorrow.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy, I am better now So I had a reasonable week to get back into it, though want to do a bit better this week...
M - Nothing
T - Swim
W - Swim
T - Swim
F - Swim
S - Nothing
S - Nothing (home for weekend)
Also I've got myself a few goals to go for now! In a moment of madness whilst casually browsing about sea swimming events this summer, I've gone and entered myself into a few of them! None are super serious races or anything, but I still want to do the best I can:
July 2 - Great swim london in the Thames (1 mile)
July 17 - Bournemouth Pier To Pier for British Heart Foundation (1.4 miles - probably the hardest one I reckon)
August 1 - Swanage Bay swim - 1km did this last year (my first sea swim "race") and it was great
August 7 - Weymouth Bay Swim - 1 mile
So I'm now aiming to improve my swimming and fitness for these events, which I know will motivate me to exercise and eat properly. I'm pretty sure I'm fit enough and can swim well enough to actually finish them as I am today, but I really want to do them faster than I could at the moment! I think I will set myself some time goals once I've timed myself in the pool more, or once I can start training in the sea when it is warmer.
PS I know this is a climbing forum - I actually like climbing a lot more than swimming, but it's much harder for me to get out climbing, at least with swimming I can go on my own!
Thanks Andy, I am better now So I had a reasonable week to get back into it, though want to do a bit better this week...
M - Nothing
T - Swim
W - Swim
T - Swim
F - Swim
S - Nothing
S - Nothing (home for weekend)
Also I've got myself a few goals to go for now! In a moment of madness whilst casually browsing about sea swimming events this summer, I've gone and entered myself into a few of them! None are super serious races or anything, but I still want to do the best I can:
July 2 - Great swim london in the Thames (1 mile)
July 17 - Bournemouth Pier To Pier for British Heart Foundation (1.4 miles - probably the hardest one I reckon)
August 1 - Swanage Bay swim - 1km did this last year (my first sea swim "race") and it was great
August 7 - Weymouth Bay Swim - 1 mile
So I'm now aiming to improve my swimming and fitness for these events, which I know will motivate me to exercise and eat properly. I'm pretty sure I'm fit enough and can swim well enough to actually finish them as I am today, but I really want to do them faster than I could at the moment! I think I will set myself some time goals once I've timed myself in the pool more, or once I can start training in the sea when it is warmer.
PS I know this is a climbing forum - I actually like climbing a lot more than swimming, but it's much harder for me to get out climbing, at least with swimming I can go on my own!
In reply to AJM:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: nothing
Wed: 4k run
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5
Fri: rest
Sat: nothing
Sun: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5, some good new problems to go at
Cheers AJM. I managed to tweak my right lat' today. Been on the Ibuprofen to calm it down. Hopefully it'll feel okay tomorrow as I had a session planned. So fingers crossed for the morning. I also missed my STG - so I've had to put it back a bit. I've got a week in Font in early May to aim for now.
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: nothing
Tue: nothing
Wed: 4k run
Thu: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5
Fri: rest
Sat: nothing
Sun: Bouldered at Castle - up to V4/V5, some good new problems to go at
Cheers AJM. I managed to tweak my right lat' today. Been on the Ibuprofen to calm it down. Hopefully it'll feel okay tomorrow as I had a session planned. So fingers crossed for the morning. I also missed my STG - so I've had to put it back a bit. I've got a week in Font in early May to aim for now.
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
<STG> - pre-midsummer
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Shredded fingers
T: Shredded fingers
W: Basingstoke with work
T: Friend visiting, nothing done
F: Drive to Malham. Massive thunderstorms overnight.
S: Started by trying to dog Consenting Adults to warm up, but fell just below the 3rd. Hit my ankle, quite a short fall since its difficult to belay dynamically given the height above the ground. Cue several hours of hobbling and pain. It got better by mid-afternoon though, so I toproped Seventh Aardvark twice. Did all the moves, and managed some decent links, including from the last bolt to the top, through the crux, although I didn't like the sequence too much. Would need a bit more work - I think that this and Yosemite Wall would be the objectives for an autumn return trip. Then dogged up Hartley Hare and had a redpoint go. Fell from the last hard move. Found out that if you have:
S: Dogged Rose Coronary on toprope to warm up. Tried to flash Puddlejumper and failed miserably. Toproped it. Did it 3rd redpoint in the end - one failure on a hard move, one slip on a smear on the easier ground. Had the first two preclipped because the sequence seemed to flow so much better that way, made the climbing nicer. Then went onto Hartley Hare - team beta discovered a new sequence, and I got it second redpoint after a frustrating fall low down through incompetence.
Have had a very good "mini Yorkshire season" - have done some cool routes, haven't been overly troubled by the Malham reputation for spanking people, broadened the range of venues I've done routes at, and filled out a load of the bottom of the pyramid - I've now only got 2 routes left to fill the pyramid.
For France, I'm going to focus on volume onsights and some broadening of the pyramid (I think the experience at more venues will be beneficial), and then I've got some summer days and evenings to tick the hard routes......
Indoor/training priorities
- Laps 4x 6c with re-tie rests
- If bouldering, actually try AeroCap (Gloucester) or circuits (TCA)
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - 407km
<VSTG> - pre-Easter
- Focus primarily on getting mileage in on days out - either pumpy trad or sport onsights
- Get up something at Malham <x4 - tick>
- Maybe sneak a 7a+/b redpoint in if time/partners/etc allows <x2 - Frankenstein, Hartley Hare>
<STG> - pre-midsummer
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall
- Complete 7b+ pyramid (currently completed 8/8 x 7a, 4/4 x 7a+, 1/2 x 7b, 0/1 x 7b+)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 1/4 x 7b, 0/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 1x 6c o/s, 3x 6c flash)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Shredded fingers
T: Shredded fingers
W: Basingstoke with work
T: Friend visiting, nothing done
F: Drive to Malham. Massive thunderstorms overnight.
S: Started by trying to dog Consenting Adults to warm up, but fell just below the 3rd. Hit my ankle, quite a short fall since its difficult to belay dynamically given the height above the ground. Cue several hours of hobbling and pain. It got better by mid-afternoon though, so I toproped Seventh Aardvark twice. Did all the moves, and managed some decent links, including from the last bolt to the top, through the crux, although I didn't like the sequence too much. Would need a bit more work - I think that this and Yosemite Wall would be the objectives for an autumn return trip. Then dogged up Hartley Hare and had a redpoint go. Fell from the last hard move. Found out that if you have:
- A previously undiscovered 10kg "weight advantage" over your belayer,
- A belayer who is trying to give you a dynamic belay, and
- A roller draw to fall onto
S: Dogged Rose Coronary on toprope to warm up. Tried to flash Puddlejumper and failed miserably. Toproped it. Did it 3rd redpoint in the end - one failure on a hard move, one slip on a smear on the easier ground. Had the first two preclipped because the sequence seemed to flow so much better that way, made the climbing nicer. Then went onto Hartley Hare - team beta discovered a new sequence, and I got it second redpoint after a frustrating fall low down through incompetence.
Have had a very good "mini Yorkshire season" - have done some cool routes, haven't been overly troubled by the Malham reputation for spanking people, broadened the range of venues I've done routes at, and filled out a load of the bottom of the pyramid - I've now only got 2 routes left to fill the pyramid.
For France, I'm going to focus on volume onsights and some broadening of the pyramid (I think the experience at more venues will be beneficial), and then I've got some summer days and evenings to tick the hard routes......
In reply to AJM:
Newbie to fit club but I'll try and make it a regular occurrence.
Mon,Tue,Wed - nothing but revision for a four day exam for work.
Thursday - Setting problems at Rokt and surprised to find some are popular at around v0-3 and some too hard, a couple v8+
Friday - rest and revision
Saturday - more route setting and grade checking at Rokt
Sunday - again at Rokt, some bouldering and hanging around on easy problems for the photographer. Started working the orange v8+ at the left end of the comp bouldering wall, added a couple of moves over previous attemts.
Newbie to fit club but I'll try and make it a regular occurrence.
Mon,Tue,Wed - nothing but revision for a four day exam for work.
Thursday - Setting problems at Rokt and surprised to find some are popular at around v0-3 and some too hard, a couple v8+
Friday - rest and revision
Saturday - more route setting and grade checking at Rokt
Sunday - again at Rokt, some bouldering and hanging around on easy problems for the photographer. Started working the orange v8+ at the left end of the comp bouldering wall, added a couple of moves over previous attemts.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
Looks like you’ve been working hard and getting the results for it, good stuff.
Not a bad week, did get four sessions in, even today’s was little light. Been trying to work out anaerobic endurance this week, (though at the wall I did a “Normal” session). I was trying to get a circuit of about 20-30 random hand movements on the 45 degree wall as 1 rep and trying to repeat it about 6 times or so with minimal rest, certainly get’s the pump going and I’m struggling to hold on in the last 2 sets, is this suitable or do think I need have something more structured? Planning on doing this for the next 6 weeks.
M: Home bouldering, 1hr 30
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Wall, 3 hrs, first trip to the wall since tour, just wanted to see where I was at after the break, onsighted 3x6b 1x6b+ and generally felt like a reasonably good session
F: Rest (intended session but sh*t happened)
S: Home bouldering 2 hrs
S: Home bouldering, 1 hr, core and repeaters on fingerboard
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘
Cheers Andy,
Looks like you’ve been working hard and getting the results for it, good stuff.
Not a bad week, did get four sessions in, even today’s was little light. Been trying to work out anaerobic endurance this week, (though at the wall I did a “Normal” session). I was trying to get a circuit of about 20-30 random hand movements on the 45 degree wall as 1 rep and trying to repeat it about 6 times or so with minimal rest, certainly get’s the pump going and I’m struggling to hold on in the last 2 sets, is this suitable or do think I need have something more structured? Planning on doing this for the next 6 weeks.
M: Home bouldering, 1hr 30
T: Rest
W: Rest
T: Wall, 3 hrs, first trip to the wall since tour, just wanted to see where I was at after the break, onsighted 3x6b 1x6b+ and generally felt like a reasonably good session
F: Rest (intended session but sh*t happened)
S: Home bouldering 2 hrs
S: Home bouldering, 1 hr, core and repeaters on fingerboard
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E # ‘
In reply to AJM:
Yep, and have also recently read Brain Training for Runners (now largely superseded by Run, but still containing a couple of chapters I'll be going back to), so will probably do a quick review of all three for my blog when I've finished the Quick Start book.
Have to be because there's only one reason for trying the WHW again and no way round the long-term effort that requires! But still have the odd downers, like this Wednesday's sad little jog (after stressful day at work) up to Penstock when I'd finally got changed to go out, sat down again (near 'refusal' before I'd even left the house!), set off after all then nearly changed my mind again about three minutes in.
Have also been to A&E tonight after slipping on roots and taking a heavy knock to the head from a tree this afternoon, but home again and still alive so far!
Nice way to log it for Fit Club, too!
M: [50.5] Rest
T: [48.0] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft (hard)
W: [47.2] Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,100 ft (jog)
T: [49.6] Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft (pretty hard)
F: [50.8] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
S: [57.5] Loch an Daimh circuit (2 Munros, 1 Top, 3 Corbetts etc.), 21.9 miles/6,900 ft
S: [60.9] 2 laps '10 in the Glen' course, 12.3 miles/1,700 ft
Current Goals (note last two somehow got missed off my last few posts):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - sounds like a couple of interesting books there.
Yep, and have also recently read Brain Training for Runners (now largely superseded by Run, but still containing a couple of chapters I'll be going back to), so will probably do a quick review of all three for my blog when I've finished the Quick Start book.
> Glad the trails are back in condition - you sound pretty psyched
Have to be because there's only one reason for trying the WHW again and no way round the long-term effort that requires! But still have the odd downers, like this Wednesday's sad little jog (after stressful day at work) up to Penstock when I'd finally got changed to go out, sat down again (near 'refusal' before I'd even left the house!), set off after all then nearly changed my mind again about three minutes in.
Have also been to A&E tonight after slipping on roots and taking a heavy knock to the head from a tree this afternoon, but home again and still alive so far!
> Mark Torrance - well done on hitting the 60 mile rolling - nice one
Nice way to log it for Fit Club, too!
M: [50.5] Rest
T: [48.0] Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft (hard)
W: [47.2] Penstock, 4.6 miles/1,100 ft (jog)
T: [49.6] Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft (pretty hard)
F: [50.8] An Cumhann/Full Grey Mare's, 6.6 miles/1,700 ft
S: [57.5] Loch an Daimh circuit (2 Munros, 1 Top, 3 Corbetts etc.), 21.9 miles/6,900 ft
S: [60.9] 2 laps '10 in the Glen' course, 12.3 miles/1,700 ft
Current Goals (note last two somehow got missed off my last few posts):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!)
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to AJM:
Right, just a quick one before bed.
A mate was climbing at Malham today and he did Rose Coronary. Don't know whether you saw him? Tall guy who has huge feet! It was his 3rd 7a! Really good effort. Mention this I remember you saying you did it last week?
Trained pretty savagely for 3 days and rested (well worked) for 4. Had an interview for PGCE on friday! That was quite exciting.
Right I'm heading to font at 4am. Catch you all a week tuesday.
Right, just a quick one before bed.
A mate was climbing at Malham today and he did Rose Coronary. Don't know whether you saw him? Tall guy who has huge feet! It was his 3rd 7a! Really good effort. Mention this I remember you saying you did it last week?
Trained pretty savagely for 3 days and rested (well worked) for 4. Had an interview for PGCE on friday! That was quite exciting.
Right I'm heading to font at 4am. Catch you all a week tuesday.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy,
PuddleJumper is a bit tricky for the flash (I thought) especially around the 3rd to 4th bolt. Nice work on Hartley Hare, really nice crux moves on that one. Were you trying nick's or my version for Seventh Aardvark? I needed to get my feet up when holding the little nubbin with my left whereas nick could get his feet up after getting the first gaston with his right hand. Think which method you chose depends on height and hip flexibility (i appear to lack both).
This week I had a week off training. had a tender ring finger pulley and pretty sore everything else after two malham trips and some other training the previous week. Went for a trad bimble on Thursday and, after getting over the shock of how much a trad rack weighs, climbed surprisingly confidently. If weather allows I hope to get out again this week and try some harder (for me) trad.
Thanks Andy,
PuddleJumper is a bit tricky for the flash (I thought) especially around the 3rd to 4th bolt. Nice work on Hartley Hare, really nice crux moves on that one. Were you trying nick's or my version for Seventh Aardvark? I needed to get my feet up when holding the little nubbin with my left whereas nick could get his feet up after getting the first gaston with his right hand. Think which method you chose depends on height and hip flexibility (i appear to lack both).
This week I had a week off training. had a tender ring finger pulley and pretty sore everything else after two malham trips and some other training the previous week. Went for a trad bimble on Thursday and, after getting over the shock of how much a trad rack weighs, climbed surprisingly confidently. If weather allows I hope to get out again this week and try some harder (for me) trad.
In reply to JimmyKay:
There was a tall guy on it at the same time I did Hartley Hare, cos I remember he was looking at it as a potential future project because its got a couple of long moves and is quite bouldery so he thought it would suit him. That may well have been him?
There was a tall guy on it at the same time I did Hartley Hare, cos I remember he was looking at it as a potential future project because its got a couple of long moves and is quite bouldery so he thought it would suit him. That may well have been him?
In reply to Eagle River:
I thought HH was good, yeah - short and punchy. I burned out lower than that on PJ, couldn't get my feet sorted again after the faff of clipping the second, and tried to ad-lib it on a different sequence to the beta and failed. Its 2 grades harder than my hardest flashes, so I'm not that surprised to be fair, but its good to try these things.
I think I was trying something nearer to your version of 7th aardvark - to start the gaston move I had my right foot on a little notchy foothold on the pillar and my left bridged out to the left on a boot-rubbered flat edge, with my left hand on the spike and my right on the dish hold. I then had to bring my left foot right in, onto the lowest bits of the flat holds by the 4th, and then make some not-quite-static move to catch the gaston. Given I'm the same height as or slightly taller than Nick I shouldn't be limited by reach, but probably I just need to hang around there and check out some fooholds and things until I find one that clicks.
I thought HH was good, yeah - short and punchy. I burned out lower than that on PJ, couldn't get my feet sorted again after the faff of clipping the second, and tried to ad-lib it on a different sequence to the beta and failed. Its 2 grades harder than my hardest flashes, so I'm not that surprised to be fair, but its good to try these things.
I think I was trying something nearer to your version of 7th aardvark - to start the gaston move I had my right foot on a little notchy foothold on the pillar and my left bridged out to the left on a boot-rubbered flat edge, with my left hand on the spike and my right on the dish hold. I then had to bring my left foot right in, onto the lowest bits of the flat holds by the 4th, and then make some not-quite-static move to catch the gaston. Given I'm the same height as or slightly taller than Nick I shouldn't be limited by reach, but probably I just need to hang around there and check out some fooholds and things until I find one that clicks.
In reply to JimmyKay:
> (In reply to AJM)
> Trained pretty savagely for 3 days and rested (well worked) for 4. Had an interview for PGCE on friday! That was quite exciting.
Good luck dude> Trained pretty savagely for 3 days and rested (well worked) for 4. Had an interview for PGCE on friday! That was quite exciting.
> Right I'm heading to font at 4am. Catch you all a week tuesday.
Have funIn reply to AJM:
I know what you mean, I spent a whole day falling off at that section on redpoint attempts before finding the correct foot sequence.
Cracking route though!
I know what you mean, I spent a whole day falling off at that section on redpoint attempts before finding the correct foot sequence.
Cracking route though!
In reply to AJM: Cheers AJM– Well done at Malham!
Goals:
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May: sub 33min 10K.
This week’s goal: Pace gf at 10K race
Mon: Sore after race last Sunday! Lunch – 5M easy offroad in 37:19 pm - Weights* and X-Trainer 30mins
Tue: Glutes still sore. Lunch – Physio exercises* pm - Steady run on/off road 8/9M in 57:31 felt flat
Wed: Lunch – Physio exercises pm - 3 x 11mins off 90 seconds steady, felt good 9/10M total with warm-up and cool down.
Thurs: am - 32mins easy lunch – Physio exercises pm - reverse of Tuesdays run in 55:27 windy! Route is harder this way round so probably went too hard. Massage after which was painful.
Fri: Lunch – plan was to do 5 x (1K @ 10K pace, 30 secs rest, 30 secs @ 1500/3K pace, 90secs jog) worked out pretty well although the short stuff felt quick! Times for the K’s were 3:15, 3:15, 3:10, 3:10, 3:10 so pleased with those 7/8M total. Also got an e-mail to say I’m in the team for the National 12 Stage.
Sat: am – 45mins steady on road – v hilly 6M
Sun: am - Pacing gf at 10K race. Windy conditions but we started well and I managed correct pace for first 3K until we realised it was a bit quick so backed off at bit. Sadly PB didn’t happen as gf missed hers by about 20 seconds although she said she didn’t feel great during the run. I really enjoyed being able to run round for once enjoying it rather than killing myself! pm - 30 mins easy recovery run.
Total: ~62M
*Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
*Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Pleased with training again this week – so far its progressing well and now looking forward to National 12 Stage next weekend just a shame gf didn't get a pb.
Goals:
April: Pace gf to 10K PB, make team for National 12 Stage.
May: sub 33min 10K.
This week’s goal: Pace gf at 10K race
Mon: Sore after race last Sunday! Lunch – 5M easy offroad in 37:19 pm - Weights* and X-Trainer 30mins
Tue: Glutes still sore. Lunch – Physio exercises* pm - Steady run on/off road 8/9M in 57:31 felt flat
Wed: Lunch – Physio exercises pm - 3 x 11mins off 90 seconds steady, felt good 9/10M total with warm-up and cool down.
Thurs: am - 32mins easy lunch – Physio exercises pm - reverse of Tuesdays run in 55:27 windy! Route is harder this way round so probably went too hard. Massage after which was painful.
Fri: Lunch – plan was to do 5 x (1K @ 10K pace, 30 secs rest, 30 secs @ 1500/3K pace, 90secs jog) worked out pretty well although the short stuff felt quick! Times for the K’s were 3:15, 3:15, 3:10, 3:10, 3:10 so pleased with those 7/8M total. Also got an e-mail to say I’m in the team for the National 12 Stage.
Sat: am – 45mins steady on road – v hilly 6M
Sun: am - Pacing gf at 10K race. Windy conditions but we started well and I managed correct pace for first 3K until we realised it was a bit quick so backed off at bit. Sadly PB didn’t happen as gf missed hers by about 20 seconds although she said she didn’t feel great during the run. I really enjoyed being able to run round for once enjoying it rather than killing myself! pm - 30 mins easy recovery run.
Total: ~62M
*Physio Exercises = Nerve stretch for hamstring, nerve stretch for sciatic nerve, stretches for mid back/lower back, periformis.
*Weight = Split Squats, Single leg press, abductors, adductors, calf raises, glutes. Hopping exercises, ankle exercises.
Pleased with training again this week – so far its progressing well and now looking forward to National 12 Stage next weekend just a shame gf didn't get a pb.
Cheers AJM, sounds like a good weekend.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B
M: rest
T: 3xDB complex, 4.5m run, BM (2x45 moves foot on, pull-ups), core (500) & theraband
W:3xDb complex, BM (2x45 moves foot on, max hangs) & core (500)
T: Friends house warming
F: recovery
S: bouldering session at Notts wall
S: nothing
Worst week in a while, ruined by booze! Time to get back to normal.
STG: more 7A's
MTG: 7B
M: rest
T: 3xDB complex, 4.5m run, BM (2x45 moves foot on, pull-ups), core (500) & theraband
W:3xDb complex, BM (2x45 moves foot on, max hangs) & core (500)
T: Friends house warming
F: recovery
S: bouldering session at Notts wall
S: nothing
Worst week in a while, ruined by booze! Time to get back to normal.
In reply to AJM: Thanks, I didn't think I'd get them so easily, super-psyched for summer now
Didn't climb much this week, not many ppl around at uni and came home for 5 days so no climbing available D:
Wed: Lots of onsighting around 6b and then cleaned a 6c I fell off a few weeks ago.
Going back to uni today so hopefully I'll get a few sessions in this week.
Didn't climb much this week, not many ppl around at uni and came home for 5 days so no climbing available D:
Wed: Lots of onsighting around 6b and then cleaned a 6c I fell off a few weeks ago.
Going back to uni today so hopefully I'll get a few sessions in this week.
In reply to AJM:
And another good weekend! Cheers, hope your journey back was okay.
Mon – Rest
Tues – Arch. 5x V3
Wedns – Castle. 3x V3
Thurs – Fingerboard. Feeling weak and tired, fingers tweaky. Kept intensity low.
Fri – Rest
Sat – Malham – Dogged up Consenting Adults and Puddlejumper to warm up. Stuck clips up on Seventh Aardvark & had a couple of goes - got it in two overlapping sections. Will go next time I think.
Sun – Malham – Absolutely trashed. Possibly I have been overdoing it! Struggled to warm up, but had a couple of TRs on Hartley Hare. Didn’t get the long move at the start of the crux, but the rest felt okay.
And another good weekend! Cheers, hope your journey back was okay.
Mon – Rest
Tues – Arch. 5x V3
Wedns – Castle. 3x V3
Thurs – Fingerboard. Feeling weak and tired, fingers tweaky. Kept intensity low.
Fri – Rest
Sat – Malham – Dogged up Consenting Adults and Puddlejumper to warm up. Stuck clips up on Seventh Aardvark & had a couple of goes - got it in two overlapping sections. Will go next time I think.
Sun – Malham – Absolutely trashed. Possibly I have been overdoing it! Struggled to warm up, but had a couple of TRs on Hartley Hare. Didn’t get the long move at the start of the crux, but the rest felt okay.
In reply to AJM:
On my sequence there was an intermediate good smear for your left foot, between the bridge and the holds below the bolt. IIRC the sequence was starting in the same place as you, right hand to poor sharp gaston, bump left foot up about a foot to intermediate, go again with right hand to good gaston, get left foot all the way up to smear below the bolt. Give it a go when you get back on it... Well done on another 7a and 7a+. successful couple of weekends for you.
> I think I was trying something nearer to your version of 7th aardvark - to start the gaston move I had my right foot on a little notchy foothold on the pillar and my left bridged out to the left on a boot-rubbered flat edge, with my left hand on the spike and my right on the dish hold. I then had to bring my left foot right in, onto the lowest bits of the flat holds by the 4th, and then make some not-quite-static move to catch the gaston
On my sequence there was an intermediate good smear for your left foot, between the bridge and the holds below the bolt. IIRC the sequence was starting in the same place as you, right hand to poor sharp gaston, bump left foot up about a foot to intermediate, go again with right hand to good gaston, get left foot all the way up to smear below the bolt. Give it a go when you get back on it... Well done on another 7a and 7a+. successful couple of weekends for you.
In reply to TonyB:
Arrghh Tony. You were going so well.
Mine crunched the other week and it's still nowhere near fixed now - 4 weeks on.
I am not posting to make you feel miserable though. The next day i taped it up and did a slopey V6. Stay away from the font crimps and you will still have loads to go at. It really is only crimps ( full and half ) that hurt it. It's as strong as it always was on open handed.
Mine is my middle finger and i taped the bottom of it tightly ( it's an A2 pulley tear ) and then taped it to my ring finger. I properly mummified it to makesure i couldn't bend it even by accident.
I did then get a bit scared and took a couple of weeks off. Back to it now and it passed fit for action last week - still can't crimp though.
Take a look at Dave Macleod's site for his advice on the lewis reaction cold water treatment and on healing tendons in general.
Good luck and fingers crossed ( pun intended )
Arrghh Tony. You were going so well.
Mine crunched the other week and it's still nowhere near fixed now - 4 weeks on.
I am not posting to make you feel miserable though. The next day i taped it up and did a slopey V6. Stay away from the font crimps and you will still have loads to go at. It really is only crimps ( full and half ) that hurt it. It's as strong as it always was on open handed.
Mine is my middle finger and i taped the bottom of it tightly ( it's an A2 pulley tear ) and then taped it to my ring finger. I properly mummified it to makesure i couldn't bend it even by accident.
I did then get a bit scared and took a couple of weeks off. Back to it now and it passed fit for action last week - still can't crimp though.
Take a look at Dave Macleod's site for his advice on the lewis reaction cold water treatment and on healing tendons in general.
Good luck and fingers crossed ( pun intended )
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Not done a big update for a while so here goes.
Another good week outside, not much time for indoor training but just trying to maintain strength gains. Managed another V7 at the wall on Tuesday, the training goal was 3xV7 in march but I think I am well past needing to move fully into endurance training so switching to 1 maintenance boulder session per week. Hopefully I have managed to get enough stronger over the winter that it is enough for MTG if I can maintain the gains.
STG
March training goals: 3xV7, solid at getting v6 in a session. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 6x 4x4. Complete 7a indoor routes pyramid (ticked: 2x6b+)
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. unlikely to be back on Portland before May now 7b ticked and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire going to make this a bit more ambitious and aim for 2x7b+ and 1x7c
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5+1x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7+1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1+6)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
M:
T: push ups, DB external rotations, o/h squats. Bouldering - new probs on panels. Flashing V3-4. Ticked grey V7 project in pen. Campus - touches. Weights - (Bolton complex, bicep curls, DB bent over lateral raise, heavy finger rolls.)
W: bouldering at castle. Working probs on panels and in pen. Flashed V4. Circuits - new circuit (CZ) on crimp wall. 14 moves = 7a+? 2 sets of intervals, 4 laps, managing ~14 moves w/ 1 min rest between laps.
T: DB external rotations, push ups. Weights - (bolton complex, bicep curls, bent over lat db raise, bent over rows, heavy finger rolls.
F:
S: Malham. Warmed up on puddlejumper, tried Chiselling The Dragon. 4? goes. Bit sunny, poor conditions most of the day and lost a fair bit of skin with little progress. More progress when it came into the shade, managed to link 3? overlapping sections. Crux feels well hard but managed to stick it a couple of times including a link from a few moves back. Feels within reach with the right tactics but the limiting factor is going to be skin.
S: Malham. Warmed up on puddlejumper and rose coronary. Tried Space Race - totally awesome. Got a complete sequence and some links at the top. Going to be testing on the endurance but will be a lot of fun to work on, barring the sharp holds on the lower wall.
Daily: rotator cuff + hip stretches
Got 2 and a half weeks to train before we're back at Malham. Going to try to max out on the power endurance and hopefully grow some skin back.
Cheers Andy. Not done a big update for a while so here goes.
Another good week outside, not much time for indoor training but just trying to maintain strength gains. Managed another V7 at the wall on Tuesday, the training goal was 3xV7 in march but I think I am well past needing to move fully into endurance training so switching to 1 maintenance boulder session per week. Hopefully I have managed to get enough stronger over the winter that it is enough for MTG if I can maintain the gains.
STG
March training goals: 3xV7, solid at getting v6 in a session. 4xCIR, 4xDensity. 6x 4x4. Complete 7a indoor routes pyramid (ticked: 2x6b+)
Hall of Mirrors and Road Rage by Apr 30. unlikely to be back on Portland before May now 7b ticked and 7b+ - Easter trip to Yorkshire going to make this a bit more ambitious and aim for 2x7b+ and 1x7c
MTG
Onsight 7a+
Onsight/Flash pyramid for 7b (1x6c+, 1x7b) ticked: (7x6c+, 5+1x7a, 2x7a+)
7c+ Pyramid (2x7b+, 1x7c, 1x7c+) ticked: (7+1x7b, 2x7b+, 1x7c)
40 pitches led at 6c to 7a+ in 2011 (current total: 1+6)
F8a redpoint in 2011
LTG
Onsight 7b+
Supercool, Infinite Gravity
M:
T: push ups, DB external rotations, o/h squats. Bouldering - new probs on panels. Flashing V3-4. Ticked grey V7 project in pen. Campus - touches. Weights - (Bolton complex, bicep curls, DB bent over lateral raise, heavy finger rolls.)
W: bouldering at castle. Working probs on panels and in pen. Flashed V4. Circuits - new circuit (CZ) on crimp wall. 14 moves = 7a+? 2 sets of intervals, 4 laps, managing ~14 moves w/ 1 min rest between laps.
T: DB external rotations, push ups. Weights - (bolton complex, bicep curls, bent over lat db raise, bent over rows, heavy finger rolls.
F:
S: Malham. Warmed up on puddlejumper, tried Chiselling The Dragon. 4? goes. Bit sunny, poor conditions most of the day and lost a fair bit of skin with little progress. More progress when it came into the shade, managed to link 3? overlapping sections. Crux feels well hard but managed to stick it a couple of times including a link from a few moves back. Feels within reach with the right tactics but the limiting factor is going to be skin.
S: Malham. Warmed up on puddlejumper and rose coronary. Tried Space Race - totally awesome. Got a complete sequence and some links at the top. Going to be testing on the endurance but will be a lot of fun to work on, barring the sharp holds on the lower wall.
Daily: rotator cuff + hip stretches
Got 2 and a half weeks to train before we're back at Malham. Going to try to max out on the power endurance and hopefully grow some skin back.
In reply to AJM:
quiet week again but the finger has held up now i am back climbing.
Had a very wet bouldering session at St Bees on Tuesday. Warmed up on a V3 + V4 ( once i'd remembered how to use my feet ) and then pottered about a bit before heading to Hueco Crack. Forgot how to use the crux hold and figured it out 2nd go. Unfortunately by then the rain started and it got wet, very wet, very quickly. Ended up working the far down sit start. Awesome moves but couldn't quite pull it off. Going to be a good one to work roof climbing, pulling over lips and power fade - all good stuff for Comedy.
Had a session on a board but not very productive unless you count going round aimlessly on big jugs useful - which it wasn't. Couldn't get 1st finger joint rounded holds open handed on a 45 deg board.
Core sessions back in play now and feeling good. My first one back had me crippled for 2 days.
Finger rehab seems to be making progress.
This weeks targets:
Wall session - start figuring out AnCap. 6c+ x 10 is first target.
Aero session - 300 moves on vertical wall
Core x4
Boulder after aero session on bendcrete. I know it like the back of my hand so i am confident about my finger
BM session to see how it goes
Trip to Kilnsey this weekend to see how far off i am on Comedy. Hoping to be able to do the 3 sections independently.
quiet week again but the finger has held up now i am back climbing.
Had a very wet bouldering session at St Bees on Tuesday. Warmed up on a V3 + V4 ( once i'd remembered how to use my feet ) and then pottered about a bit before heading to Hueco Crack. Forgot how to use the crux hold and figured it out 2nd go. Unfortunately by then the rain started and it got wet, very wet, very quickly. Ended up working the far down sit start. Awesome moves but couldn't quite pull it off. Going to be a good one to work roof climbing, pulling over lips and power fade - all good stuff for Comedy.
Had a session on a board but not very productive unless you count going round aimlessly on big jugs useful - which it wasn't. Couldn't get 1st finger joint rounded holds open handed on a 45 deg board.
Core sessions back in play now and feeling good. My first one back had me crippled for 2 days.
Finger rehab seems to be making progress.
This weeks targets:
Wall session - start figuring out AnCap. 6c+ x 10 is first target.
Aero session - 300 moves on vertical wall
Core x4
Boulder after aero session on bendcrete. I know it like the back of my hand so i am confident about my finger
BM session to see how it goes
Trip to Kilnsey this weekend to see how far off i am on Comedy. Hoping to be able to do the 3 sections independently.
In reply to AJM:
Sorry Andy i very rudely forgot to say thanks for the help mid week. I've now got a good idea of what i am going to work.
Good effort at Malham as well. You must have good footwork :0)
Sorry Andy i very rudely forgot to say thanks for the help mid week. I've now got a good idea of what i am going to work.
Good effort at Malham as well. You must have good footwork :0)
Thank you AJM:
Upcoming races:
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: WENT CLIMBING!!!! OK session - felt quite sore the following day, though, I'm using muscles in ways they are no longer used to being used! Also noted my "head for heights" isn't quite what it used to be. Hmmm.
Tu: rest
W: triathlon club run 40 minutes. Was very slow for most of it, and then found I could pick up the pace a bit at the end, which was quite good. Club swim 1 hour.
Th: cycled home (26km) - pootled a bit as there was quite a strong tail wind, so a bit nervous. Result; reasonable time low effort.
F: rest
Sa: 1h45 minute run, 15.45 km. A bit slow but I did pick a big hill to run up which made it difficult to keep my heart rate in the right zone. Followed it with 1st test ride on new bike.
Su: am took a longer ride on new TT bike. Struggling to get down on the aero bars - it does feel less stable in that position. However I remember how I felt when I got my road bike and I expect (hope!) that I will get more confident on it.
pm: Masters' swim 1 hour.
Upcoming races:
Gala Sprint Triathlon 17th April
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: WENT CLIMBING!!!! OK session - felt quite sore the following day, though, I'm using muscles in ways they are no longer used to being used! Also noted my "head for heights" isn't quite what it used to be. Hmmm.
Tu: rest
W: triathlon club run 40 minutes. Was very slow for most of it, and then found I could pick up the pace a bit at the end, which was quite good. Club swim 1 hour.
Th: cycled home (26km) - pootled a bit as there was quite a strong tail wind, so a bit nervous. Result; reasonable time low effort.
F: rest
Sa: 1h45 minute run, 15.45 km. A bit slow but I did pick a big hill to run up which made it difficult to keep my heart rate in the right zone. Followed it with 1st test ride on new bike.
Su: am took a longer ride on new TT bike. Struggling to get down on the aero bars - it does feel less stable in that position. However I remember how I felt when I got my road bike and I expect (hope!) that I will get more confident on it.
pm: Masters' swim 1 hour.
In reply to biscuit:
Glad you found it helpful, no worries.
I think the thing with malham is that the style of moves are what I'm used to because the handholds are quite similar, so I can get to the right sort of area for my feet quite quickly, after which it's a case of just narrowing it down to the exact hold of choice...
Glad you found it helpful, no worries.
I think the thing with malham is that the style of moves are what I'm used to because the handholds are quite similar, so I can get to the right sort of area for my feet quite quickly, after which it's a case of just narrowing it down to the exact hold of choice...
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. The 6" fall thing last week was just one of those slips, I had my heels nearly on the floor and had completed the move (a very steep and tense move down onto glassy crimps), my spotter relaxed, I relaxed... I exploded off backwards and headbutted his solidly braced knee so hard I was seeing stars and he was still limping the next day. One of those things
I thought I'd had a reasonably productive week but apparently not. I've scratched my weekly goals, I wasn't hitting them, I wasn't paying them any heed they were just annoying me.
M:
T: Climbing, Scugdale. Knees giving me jip and generally feeling pretty shaky for an easy soloing evening
W:
T: Run 3.80mi (7:39 pace)
F:
S: Climbing, Curbar. The usual ritual humiliation
S: Climbing, Ravensdale. One VS before shutdown by hail
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
Cheers Andy. The 6" fall thing last week was just one of those slips, I had my heels nearly on the floor and had completed the move (a very steep and tense move down onto glassy crimps), my spotter relaxed, I relaxed... I exploded off backwards and headbutted his solidly braced knee so hard I was seeing stars and he was still limping the next day. One of those things
I thought I'd had a reasonably productive week but apparently not. I've scratched my weekly goals, I wasn't hitting them, I wasn't paying them any heed they were just annoying me.
M:
T: Climbing, Scugdale. Knees giving me jip and generally feeling pretty shaky for an easy soloing evening
W:
T: Run 3.80mi (7:39 pace)
F:
S: Climbing, Curbar. The usual ritual humiliation
S: Climbing, Ravensdale. One VS before shutdown by hail
STG (end April):
7b+ RP
Steady E3 OS
12mi/week Running
74kg
MTG (end July):
7c RP
Steady E4 OS
<40min 10k
LTG (end 2011):
8a RP is at the back of my mind, lets see how the year pans out
1/2 marathon
jk
In reply to grubes:
Cheers Luke,
The opening was very busy with people coming to have a look and sign for membership.
Hoping to be steady v8 in a couple of months, then set some more projects.
> (In reply to JSA)
> Welcome Martin
> how was the opening weekend?
>
> Luke
> Welcome Martin
> how was the opening weekend?
>
> Luke
Cheers Luke,
The opening was very busy with people coming to have a look and sign for membership.
Hoping to be steady v8 in a couple of months, then set some more projects.
In reply to AJM: Cheers. It was too good an opportunity to turn down, especially given the weather
Mon: Afternoon 42k cycle at hard effort. Evening, steady 1.25k swim, club handicap 10k on rather lumpy route (2 distinct climbs, first 2k and from 4.5-6k) 43mins or so. Happy enough on tired legs though suffered the usual gut issues.
Tue: 9k easy recovery run, evening couple of hours at Harrogate Wall, TR up to f6b+ on slabs and f6a+ on steeper stuff - rather surprised really, as I thought they kick me straight off.
Wed: 21k steady cycle
Thu: 13k training run around Chevin, mixed effort and put quite a few hills in.
Fri: Nothing (tweaked something in my back during my sleep rather painfully!)
Sat: Nothing
Sun: Exe to Axe Fell Race, along Devon coast (quoted as 20.3miles, c4000ft climb, though I measured it about 1-2k longer), 3.31.
Not quite as high volume as the previous week, as a little tiredness crept in, especially after Monday's hard mixed session, but still decent amount. Felt I ran well on Monday on legs that seemed a little empty after the cycle.
Sunday's race was glorious. For anyone in the south west who likes to run offroad, I'd highly recommend it. It has a lot of climb, especially in the second half, and is generally on decent tracks, but has spectacular views. It was a little warm yesterday, but I had a decent run apart from the last little bit where my diaphragm went really tight, and because the description of the finish was a little vague, I didn't realise how close the end was as I wound down to the prom - I was expecting several more minutes running, but instead happened quickly upon the line. I'd like to think 3.30 could have gone if I'd have realised how close the end was.
An easy day or two, and then back to a week or two fairly hard, before tapering to the 3 Peaks.
Mon: Afternoon 42k cycle at hard effort. Evening, steady 1.25k swim, club handicap 10k on rather lumpy route (2 distinct climbs, first 2k and from 4.5-6k) 43mins or so. Happy enough on tired legs though suffered the usual gut issues.
Tue: 9k easy recovery run, evening couple of hours at Harrogate Wall, TR up to f6b+ on slabs and f6a+ on steeper stuff - rather surprised really, as I thought they kick me straight off.
Wed: 21k steady cycle
Thu: 13k training run around Chevin, mixed effort and put quite a few hills in.
Fri: Nothing (tweaked something in my back during my sleep rather painfully!)
Sat: Nothing
Sun: Exe to Axe Fell Race, along Devon coast (quoted as 20.3miles, c4000ft climb, though I measured it about 1-2k longer), 3.31.
Not quite as high volume as the previous week, as a little tiredness crept in, especially after Monday's hard mixed session, but still decent amount. Felt I ran well on Monday on legs that seemed a little empty after the cycle.
Sunday's race was glorious. For anyone in the south west who likes to run offroad, I'd highly recommend it. It has a lot of climb, especially in the second half, and is generally on decent tracks, but has spectacular views. It was a little warm yesterday, but I had a decent run apart from the last little bit where my diaphragm went really tight, and because the description of the finish was a little vague, I didn't realise how close the end was as I wound down to the prom - I was expecting several more minutes running, but instead happened quickly upon the line. I'd like to think 3.30 could have gone if I'd have realised how close the end was.
An easy day or two, and then back to a week or two fairly hard, before tapering to the 3 Peaks.
In reply to AJM:
Easy climbing at the westway on Tues and castle on Thurs. Bit of no-hands. Great technique training! Still sticking my hands in cold water as often as I can. Packing for France!
Easy climbing at the westway on Tues and castle on Thurs. Bit of no-hands. Great technique training! Still sticking my hands in cold water as often as I can. Packing for France!
In reply to AJM: cheers aim, I think my 'very different' climb may be a result of stupid auto-correct on my phone!
Busy week again this week but no climbing unfortunately. Did my CWA training Thurs/Fri which was good, need to get some instructing sessions in my logbook now.
Sat - popped into to Rokt to have a look, very nice and very BIG! Played on the walls and did a nice V2 on the comp wall but it was too busy with people milling about to have a proper session so went to huddersfield wall for an hour. Man, that place will be empty once Rokt opens fully!
Diet starts this week!
Busy week again this week but no climbing unfortunately. Did my CWA training Thurs/Fri which was good, need to get some instructing sessions in my logbook now.
Sat - popped into to Rokt to have a look, very nice and very BIG! Played on the walls and did a nice V2 on the comp wall but it was too busy with people milling about to have a proper session so went to huddersfield wall for an hour. Man, that place will be empty once Rokt opens fully!
Diet starts this week!
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM - yep nearly after work climbing time - just need this rain to stop! Nice work on more ticking for you.
A quiet week for me for various reasons.
Mon - Routes - laps up to 6b. They felt quite easy overall so I think maybe I need to step the difficulty up a little bit - I think I know these routes too well now so they are getting easier.
Tues - nothing, shattered
Wed - core - ow
Thurs - bouldering - demotivated and bored by all the problems. Should have swapped walls. Did a few offset pullups so feeling a buit stronger.
Fri-Sun - Family weekend.
All in all, a quietish week. Still, I have Thurs and Friday off work and the weather looks good, so hopefully get some more trad done. Possibility of heading to Pembroke, which would be great.
Thanks AJM - yep nearly after work climbing time - just need this rain to stop! Nice work on more ticking for you.
A quiet week for me for various reasons.
Mon - Routes - laps up to 6b. They felt quite easy overall so I think maybe I need to step the difficulty up a little bit - I think I know these routes too well now so they are getting easier.
Tues - nothing, shattered
Wed - core - ow
Thurs - bouldering - demotivated and bored by all the problems. Should have swapped walls. Did a few offset pullups so feeling a buit stronger.
Fri-Sun - Family weekend.
All in all, a quietish week. Still, I have Thurs and Friday off work and the weather looks good, so hopefully get some more trad done. Possibility of heading to Pembroke, which would be great.
In reply to AJM:
No routes this week, indoors or out. Some bouldering for a change and getting back on the deadhangs as I was getting a bit slack over the last couple of weeks. Continuing efforts to build up endurance so I can just climb for longer during my wall sessions and get those 6a's ticked off finally. Am doing wrist curls with a light dumbell - 3 sets of 50. Is that too may reps/too little weight (I think it's capillarisation I'm after if I understand correctly)
No routes this week, indoors or out. Some bouldering for a change and getting back on the deadhangs as I was getting a bit slack over the last couple of weeks. Continuing efforts to build up endurance so I can just climb for longer during my wall sessions and get those 6a's ticked off finally. Am doing wrist curls with a light dumbell - 3 sets of 50. Is that too may reps/too little weight (I think it's capillarisation I'm after if I understand correctly)
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. I'm quite positive about it, and doing what I can. Except I'm a bit bored and frustrated not being at to train, after feeling close to some breakthroughs. I've pushed my goals back to try and accommodate...
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
M - rest
T - Hangs @ home; front 2 and pullups. 5.5km run
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - rest
S - A little easy trad
Cheers Andy. I'm quite positive about it, and doing what I can. Except I'm a bit bored and frustrated not being at to train, after feeling close to some breakthroughs. I've pushed my goals back to try and accommodate...
By July 2011
Font 7B - Possibles... Jerry's Traverse/T-Crack
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship.
M - rest
T - Hangs @ home; front 2 and pullups. 5.5km run
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - rest
S - A little easy trad
In reply to AJM:
S - 6 miles road run.
M - 4.3 miles run road am and pm
T - 7 miles run road including 4 x 1km intervals, strides and stretches
W - 10 miles run road pace
T - 5 miles run road am, 3.5 miles run road pm
F -
S - 7 miles road run (around Tiergarten, Berlin)
S -
Touristing and then working in Germany, so late report and no long run last Sunday. 41 miles.
S - 6 miles road run.
M - 4.3 miles run road am and pm
T - 7 miles run road including 4 x 1km intervals, strides and stretches
W - 10 miles run road pace
T - 5 miles run road am, 3.5 miles run road pm
F -
S - 7 miles road run (around Tiergarten, Berlin)
S -
Touristing and then working in Germany, so late report and no long run last Sunday. 41 miles.
In reply to Mark Torrance: Working in portugal last two weeks, algarve has loads of sign posted trails runs so great running
m: 4 mile beach run
t: 7 mile trail run algarve
w: 4 mile road run in faro
t: a: 6 mile trail run, pm: 5 mile trail run
f: 8.3 mile trail run in algarve
s: 13.4 mile trail and mountain run down and up and down and up Foia (902m)
s: 8.5 mile trail run in algarve
m: 4 mile beach run
t: 7 mile trail run algarve
w: 4 mile road run in faro
t: a: 6 mile trail run, pm: 5 mile trail run
f: 8.3 mile trail run in algarve
s: 13.4 mile trail and mountain run down and up and down and up Foia (902m)
s: 8.5 mile trail run in algarve
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