UKC Forums - Best crag with the consistency of biscuits?

In reply to JLS:

Another vote for Craig Dorys. How the Stigmata Buttress doesn't just fall over given the inherent awfulness of the rock is one of modern science's last great unanswered questions.

GrahamD 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS:

Falconsteine

Nigel Coe 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS: The crag on Jersey where Scott Titt put up Pony & Trap was made of a weetabixy granite. As he udged upwards he knocked off some lumps but by the time they reached me they were gravel.

GrahamD 05 Apr 2011

In reply to Nigel Coe:

Funny how granite varies from the most solid to rubble in just a few metres. I've come across routes like that near Chairladder and on Arran as well.

victorclimber 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS: whitestone cliff

Hat Dude 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS:

A lot of the top of Millstone is like a stack of Digestives

Iain Peters 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS:
Carn Gowla - even has a route named McVitie; Berlin, RIP, at Brownspear Point S side was a delicious experience on crumbling wafers, but the route that must take the biscuit is The Great Picket Rock. In the dry is extremely crunchy, when wet it's just like dunkin' donuts.

Dave Williams 05 Apr 2011

In reply to Iain Peters:

Carn Gowla was going to get my vote too but then I quickly remembered my experiences of climbing some disgusting rubbish on the Llyn Peninsula, the worst of which was a totally unprotectable horror show of a route on Parwyd which has, hopefully, fallen down by now.

<shudder>

Dave

Sam Marks 05 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS: Pickering woods! NYM.

Tom Last 05 Apr 2011

In reply to johncoxmysteriously:

> (In reply to JLS)
>
> Blackchurch, although I wouldn't really say it had the solidity of biscuits.
>
> jcm

Second that - more cream crackers though.

Tom Valentine 05 Apr 2011

In reply to GrahamD:
Lundy granite is extremely variable. "Good Vibrations" is only a cockstride away from the Diamond but is worlds apart in terms of solidity.

victim of mathematics 07 Apr 2011

In reply to Hat Dude:

> (In reply to JLS)
>
> A lot of the top of Millstone is like a stack of Digestives

You need to get out more, that isn't even close to being in the same league of biscuityness as some of the offerings on show here...

Hat Dude 07 Apr 2011

In reply to victim of mathematics:

But it probably has more redeeming features;0)

staceyjg 07 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS:

I suppose the obvious question is "why?"

Wee Davie 07 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS:

Going to have to nominate Ladies Chambers crag here in Bermuda. It's a cracker.
Limestone, 40 something feet high and 25 degrees overhanging. It's covered in flat hauds that are as thick as a Hob Nob but not as confidence inspiring.
Great climbing but thank god it's DWS and not roped above a hard landing.

BenNorman 07 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS: Huntsham, Forest of Dean, some real hidden gems!

Gaston Rubberpants 07 Apr 2011

In reply to JLS: Red Wall and Moustrap Zawn at Gogarth spring to mind the redeeming features being the routes Moustrap and Red Wall. The Exploding Galaxy Wall in the Avon Gorge is saved by the route Yellow Edge.

Al

mcdougal 08 Apr 2011

In reply to Tom Valentine:

> (In reply to GrahamD)
> Lundy granite is extremely variable.

Another vote for Lundy. I didn't climb there as such, but tried a couple of moves in the "Earthquake". Pulling on a jug the size of my head left me with a handful of 5mm gravel.

Al Evans 08 Apr 2011

In reply to mcdougal: I remember a route like that on Lundy (just one) that got three stars, Controlled Burning (which may no longer exist) had an initial crack that was like jamming up granualated sugar, however I have to say that is a great exception to the hundreds of routes I have done on Lundy (and it was a great line)