UKC

Just seen a photo on a book cover of dunstanbough castle and there was what looked like a pretty impresive sea cliff near the castle I know it is not in the Northumberland guide so was wondering if anyone had been to have a look at this cliff or if there are any climbs on it. Seems pretty big and obvious to have been overlook so I expect the quality of the rock is not durable for climbing, any help would be apreciatd.

In reply to Russell Lovett:
Cullernose?

http://thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/index.php?v=4&s=3&sid=11&id=23...

In reply to odox: it's not Cullernose. Dunstanburgh is north of Craster. I know the cliffs the OP means and I doubt if there's any climbing of note as the rock is pretty crumbly. If he really wants an adventure on Northumbrian seacliffs, he can get to crag point at seaton sluice alot easier and it's just as crumbly

In reply to graeme jackson: As Graeme says it is not cullernose as I have climbed there before, thought it might be a case of the rock being no good for climbing as it looks just to good in the photo to have been overlooked. And as for crag point iv climbed there before as well, even put up a new route there in the 80,s (Vivian VS 4c). Don,t know who was s---ing themself more me or the wife who was belaying me. Anyway if the rock quality at the Dunstanburgh ciff is as bad as crag point I think I,ll give it a miss.

In reply to Russell Lovett:

Now I'm really impressed! I last climbed there around 79 / 80 and led simplex (I think - one of the 'X' routes in the square bay anyway) and seriously cacked my pants. For a real adventure afterwards, we went into the Battery cave further along then solo'd up the crag straight out of the cave entrance - boy was I stupid in my youth.

In reply to graeme jackson: Visited crag point a few times, I must have been as daft as you as have also soloed the face directly above the small cave on the small sea ward facing face think the route goes up next to the left arête and was graded VDiff.
I had just moved up to Newcastle from Bournemouth and was used to climbing loose rock as I regulaly climbed at swanage before moving hear, having said that I would happily climb at swanage anytme but think I only bothered going to crag point a couple of times. Only wanted to do a new route there to get into the new guide (the one with bob on posiden adventer on the front) nearly killed my self and then found out crag point was not going to be in the new guide as it was considered to loose and dangerous even for a mad bunch of gordies to climb on

In reply to Russell Lovett: The northern bit of the Dunstanburgh crag, above the boulder field, looks half decent, not much in the way of nesting birds as there aren't many ledges for them. I suspect it'd be quite hard, but worth a look if you're in the area. It isn't tidal. The other end looks like Cullernose in character but it's inaccesssable as it undercuts into the sea.

In reply to graeme jackson:

New routes in the 80's eh?

Me too - we did 2 on the rhs somewhere Maggie how does it feel to be the mother of 1000 dead and SHAG!

Bot recorded anywhere but I'm sure we stuck them in the new routes book in the outdoor shop in town - NMC probably dismissed them!

In reply to Bulls Crack:

The 1979 guide was the last one with routes on the crag in on account of it "deteriorating", whatever that means on a crag that was already at the extreme rubbish end of the scale.

For the record the original guide, by Steve Belk, is at http://thenmc.org.uk/onlineguide/bumph/cragpointorig.htm

In reply to JDal:

My mistake - I meant Cullernose for our new routes. I have climbed at Crag Point..and did Marsden Pinnacle....as was!