UKC

Bouldering Shoes

I am about to invest in a new pair and kind of have my mind set on the Five Ten Anasazi VCS as I have read a lot of good things about them.
I climb usually upto around V3/V5 but would like to push that up and feel a better pair of shoes (Presently have Scarpa vantage) would benefit me, plue these are wearing out.

Has anyone got any other suggestions I've heard mixed reviews about the Evlov pontas and like the look of the La Sportiva Katana and would like to hear what people think of the Five-Ten Anasazi Verde specifically for bouldering.

Thanks in advance

In reply to fozmeister:
I bought a pair of LaSportiva Solutions for bouldering. Very aggressive shoes, but mega for really steep stuff!

In reply to fozmeister: Given that bouldering probably uses a greater range of footwork than any other sort of climbing I'm struggling to see what a specialist bouldering shoe is supposed to be. Generic advice: try lots on and buy the ones that feel the best to climb in.

In reply to fozmeister:


Whites are better.

-In reply to @ndyM@rsh@ll:

Yeah, C4 stealth rubber rather than the verde which is Stealth Onyxx. Although I get on very well with the verdes, so cant complain!

In reply to Big Chris:

These look great but not sure if they will be a little bit beyond my climbing grade for me...

In reply to fozmeister: Go Outdoors had Red Chili Matadors for £58, they are a v. good shoe, definitely worth it for the money.

In reply to fozmeister: I just bought my evolv pontas' love them, they feel a little tight on the big toe at first but this fades after wearing a few times. I got mine in a size 10 same size as I wear for skate shoes, but like other people have said try on a few pairs, see what feels best for you.

In reply to fozmeister: I found the Matadors took a long time to break in, but now perform really well on steep bouldery stuff and tenuous heel hooking. Crap on routes though...

Andy F

In reply to fozmeister: I hate to say it but the work man and his tools saying comes to mind. However i found the la sportiva slippers are very good!

In reply to fozmeister:

Have a look at the 5.10 5x

They are great and for me a lot comfier that the whites but it's a personal thing.

good luck

G

In reply to andy farnell: What didn't you like about them on routes?

In reply to Soap: Bizzarely I can't climb anything harder than about 7a+/7b in them at Malham. They just feel 'clumpy' on the slightly overhanging technical footwork needed above 7b. My Scarpa Boosters and Mago's just feel much better on the harder routes.

Andy f

In reply to Gazlynn:
I like the look of them, may investigate; cheers

In reply to andy farnell: Boosters are an awesome shoe, the heel is terrible though.

In reply to fozmeister: youll get on fine on pretty much anything in 5:10 verdes, velcro's or whites, particularly on grit/granite etc.
if you're regularly on steeper stuff have a look at a downturned shoe.

In reply to fozmeister:

Thanks for your help I tried the pontas on and found them to narrow - the red chili's which I really wanted just hurt and felt too uncomfortable - the 5.10 projects were the same - the verde's I never got round to as I felt the Ananazi's were good and I liked the feel so I got them in the end - thanks to all in Needlesports (Well the woman anyway) for her help.

BTW - went into the EDZ shop nearby and they have some good stuff in stock - the Merino stuff is good value worth checking out.

In reply to fozmeister: I love my anasazis for bouldering and know a lot of people who do too, I think they're definitely good if you have wide feet. The pontas are also good but I find Evolv wear down very quickly where as the anasazi should last you a little but longer. I just bought a pair of the anasazi arrowheads and will take these to font with me soon for a proper try out. But the anasazis are lovely