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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (213) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=455164
Repeat posters 35
Seankenny - Enjoy your trip to the Verdon
The New NickB - The A&E trip must have been a scare but it’s great that you can be back running and climbing so soon
Niels - Good to hear that you psyched for sport and well done for the VS solo last week.
Steve John B - It’s important to rest
Miles - It’s really frustrating when partners are busy isn’t it.
Mattrm - Hope you enjoy walking in the lakes, and I think everyone’s motivation fluctuates.
Leon - sounds like you learnt some important lessons
Richardh - sounds excellent.
Andy Farnell - Well done on Big Marine.
Andy - Congratulations. To me 3:11 sounds great at any age!
Karen87 - Sounds like a good climbing week. Hope you get over the flu quickly.
Murd - If you can perform like that at a climbing wall, you must be very close to your STG
Grubes - I’m sure everyone will appreciate the heads up on Crosland Moor Quarry
Jimmy Kay - Your Font trips sounded amazing
Nexonen - Sounds like a lot of swimming
Eagle River - Stupid trad! I like it.
Chris05 - Sounds like you got some good bouldering in. Out of interest what’s the Notts wall like. I’m thinking of moving back to the UK and have been looking at job in Nottingham.
Fimm - Excellent result
IanRUK - Enjoy your trip to Mallorca
Viking - Have a great trip to Wales, let’s hope you get the V6 ticked
Jeriqo - I had to google Ras y Moelwyn; it looks very seriously tough
Petestack - Hope the toenails improve soon
Catt - Looks like a solid couple of weeks
Thickhead - Fantastic. Very well done!
Humperdink - Sounds like a mixed week. It must have been hard watching your gf struggling.
Curious Yellow - Enjoy Malham. I bet it’ll be great being outside.
Sonya Mc - Welcome back, sounds like a varied week
Shauna - Arrrrrggh elbows. I had a lot of problems with mine a few years ago.
Liam M - I know what you mean about getting inspiration from watching friends results.
Kevster - Sorry I missed you in Font. Onsighting several 6s is good going.
Mark Torrance - Good luck in your marathon
Ayuplass - A good training plan is something we all need
Daniel Heath - sounds fun.
Goonie - Well done on the 7c+. Good to hear the back is getting better.
Biscuit - Looking forward to hearing about your better week. But ticking a couple of 7a routes seems like a good week already.
Absentees
AJM – in France
Sankey
Agibb
Mike Nolan
JSA
Plexiglass Nick
Stone_Donkey
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (213) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=455164
Repeat posters 35
Seankenny - Enjoy your trip to the Verdon
The New NickB - The A&E trip must have been a scare but it’s great that you can be back running and climbing so soon
Niels - Good to hear that you psyched for sport and well done for the VS solo last week.
Steve John B - It’s important to rest
Miles - It’s really frustrating when partners are busy isn’t it.
Mattrm - Hope you enjoy walking in the lakes, and I think everyone’s motivation fluctuates.
Leon - sounds like you learnt some important lessons
Richardh - sounds excellent.
Andy Farnell - Well done on Big Marine.
Andy - Congratulations. To me 3:11 sounds great at any age!
Karen87 - Sounds like a good climbing week. Hope you get over the flu quickly.
Murd - If you can perform like that at a climbing wall, you must be very close to your STG
Grubes - I’m sure everyone will appreciate the heads up on Crosland Moor Quarry
Jimmy Kay - Your Font trips sounded amazing
Nexonen - Sounds like a lot of swimming
Eagle River - Stupid trad! I like it.
Chris05 - Sounds like you got some good bouldering in. Out of interest what’s the Notts wall like. I’m thinking of moving back to the UK and have been looking at job in Nottingham.
Fimm - Excellent result
IanRUK - Enjoy your trip to Mallorca
Viking - Have a great trip to Wales, let’s hope you get the V6 ticked
Jeriqo - I had to google Ras y Moelwyn; it looks very seriously tough
Petestack - Hope the toenails improve soon
Catt - Looks like a solid couple of weeks
Thickhead - Fantastic. Very well done!
Humperdink - Sounds like a mixed week. It must have been hard watching your gf struggling.
Curious Yellow - Enjoy Malham. I bet it’ll be great being outside.
Sonya Mc - Welcome back, sounds like a varied week
Shauna - Arrrrrggh elbows. I had a lot of problems with mine a few years ago.
Liam M - I know what you mean about getting inspiration from watching friends results.
Kevster - Sorry I missed you in Font. Onsighting several 6s is good going.
Mark Torrance - Good luck in your marathon
Ayuplass - A good training plan is something we all need
Daniel Heath - sounds fun.
Goonie - Well done on the 7c+. Good to hear the back is getting better.
Biscuit - Looking forward to hearing about your better week. But ticking a couple of 7a routes seems like a good week already.
Absentees
AJM – in France
Sankey
Agibb
Mike Nolan
JSA
Plexiglass Nick
Stone_Donkey
In reply to TonyB:
This is the first time I've done the stats, so let me know if anything is wrong or I missed someone. Also really well done to all the runners. You've all been training hard and getting some great well deserved results. I'm not a runner (I once ran a marathon in 4:20) so it's hard to comment on your posts but it's really obvious that the training is paying off. Well done.
This is the first time I've done the stats, so let me know if anything is wrong or I missed someone. Also really well done to all the runners. You've all been training hard and getting some great well deserved results. I'm not a runner (I once ran a marathon in 4:20) so it's hard to comment on your posts but it's really obvious that the training is paying off. Well done.
In reply to TonyB: Cheers Tony.
Goals - 8b, 7B+
Mon - team training at the Hangar, felt tired after 3 days on but the session went well.
Tues - rest
Wed - core session
Thurs - rest
Fri - Kilnsey. Warmed up then put clips in Mr Nice (7c+). First redpoint came off at the top crux, waited an hour then crushed. Good to get the first trickyish route of the year done. Warmed down on Comedy.
Sat - Family
Sun - Went for a nice walk with the family, then some fingerboarding followed by core work.
Andy F
Goals - 8b, 7B+
Mon - team training at the Hangar, felt tired after 3 days on but the session went well.
Tues - rest
Wed - core session
Thurs - rest
Fri - Kilnsey. Warmed up then put clips in Mr Nice (7c+). First redpoint came off at the top crux, waited an hour then crushed. Good to get the first trickyish route of the year done. Warmed down on Comedy.
Sat - Family
Sun - Went for a nice walk with the family, then some fingerboarding followed by core work.
Andy F
In reply to TonyB:
A week on Rock Leader Training, the Military SPA equivalent.
M- Evening Bouldering and leading. not much focus but hard
T- Bus Stop Quarry: Fool's Gold, Equinox and the other one loving slate more all the time. Hour bouldering to burn out on.
W- Gogarth VS "Rap" first sea cliff. Felt serious and really cool.
T- One short HS in Holyhead
F-
S- Some press ups and a hard chin up session
S- Hard hill run session
Cheers, Dan
A week on Rock Leader Training, the Military SPA equivalent.
M- Evening Bouldering and leading. not much focus but hard
T- Bus Stop Quarry: Fool's Gold, Equinox and the other one loving slate more all the time. Hour bouldering to burn out on.
W- Gogarth VS "Rap" first sea cliff. Felt serious and really cool.
T- One short HS in Holyhead
F-
S- Some press ups and a hard chin up session
S- Hard hill run session
Cheers, Dan
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony
Injury has reared it's ugly head this week, I think from too much racing and hard speed work. Mild shin splints, but I think with a couple of weeks lower intensity running and some focus on ankle and calf stretches I should be OK.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:04, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - Hill reps with club.
Wednesday - 5k race. Too hot and tired legs, but knocked another couple off my current best time, 19:02 on what isnt the fastest of courses.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Salford 10k, very hot, dropped out after a couple of miles due to pain in my right shin.
Saturday - Marshalled the Heaton parkrun in the morning, watched football, played poker and drank beer the rest of the day.
Sunday - 8 miles on fell and trail including a recce of the Saddleworth fell race and a lap of Dovestone Res. No shin pain so hopefully my planned treatment will be the correct on.
Lots of easy miles next week and a bit of royal wedding climbing on Friday.
Thanks Tony
Injury has reared it's ugly head this week, I think from too much racing and hard speed work. Mild shin splints, but I think with a couple of weeks lower intensity running and some focus on ankle and calf stretches I should be OK.
STG (End June): Sub 18:45 5k, current best of 19:04, sub 39 10k, current best of 39:24, some reasonable climbing mileage at VS and above.
MTG (End 2011): Sub 18:30 5k, sub 38 10k, sub 1:24 half marathon, current best of 1:28:06, classic Lakes AL fell race in a decent time.
LTG: (2012): Sub 3 hour marathon.
Monday - Rest.
Tuesday - Hill reps with club.
Wednesday - 5k race. Too hot and tired legs, but knocked another couple off my current best time, 19:02 on what isnt the fastest of courses.
Thursday - Rest.
Friday - Salford 10k, very hot, dropped out after a couple of miles due to pain in my right shin.
Saturday - Marshalled the Heaton parkrun in the morning, watched football, played poker and drank beer the rest of the day.
Sunday - 8 miles on fell and trail including a recce of the Saddleworth fell race and a lap of Dovestone Res. No shin pain so hopefully my planned treatment will be the correct on.
Lots of easy miles next week and a bit of royal wedding climbing on Friday.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 6lb
M - Stretches
T - 4k run
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Trad climbing
S - Rest
S - Rest
Looking forward to the Lakes tomorrow. Took a tumble off a Severe on Friday first bit of gear about 3m up popped, crappy cam placement. Which was daft as I could have got a good wire in, I was just rushing, thinking, oh it's a Severe, nice and easy, let's get up it quick. Got away with a bruised heel, a few bruises and scrapes, so think I did really well all in. Shook me up a bit, but I got straight back on it and finished the lead.
Thanks for doing the stats.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 6lb
M - Stretches
T - 4k run
W - Rest
T - Rest
F - Trad climbing
S - Rest
S - Rest
Looking forward to the Lakes tomorrow. Took a tumble off a Severe on Friday first bit of gear about 3m up popped, crappy cam placement. Which was daft as I could have got a good wire in, I was just rushing, thinking, oh it's a Severe, nice and easy, let's get up it quick. Got away with a bruised heel, a few bruises and scrapes, so think I did really well all in. Shook me up a bit, but I got straight back on it and finished the lead.
In reply to TonyB: Oops, forgot to post last week. Ticked 2 more of the 6a's on the wall list - 4 more to go. Been reading 9 out of 10 climbers - going to start some falling practice and record my efforts here.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks, Tony- a fine first effort!
Post-marathon week so not a lot apart from walking gingerly downstairs and a massage to get the worst of the stiffness out of my legs.
Managed a couple of 4 mile recoveries at about 8:15 pace and a steady 22 mile bike ride on Friday before spending the weekend at a wedding and consequent drunkenness.
Steady week this week too as it's 3 Peaks on Saturday and want to try and get round without getting timed out.
Post-marathon week so not a lot apart from walking gingerly downstairs and a massage to get the worst of the stiffness out of my legs.
Managed a couple of 4 mile recoveries at about 8:15 pace and a steady 22 mile bike ride on Friday before spending the weekend at a wedding and consequent drunkenness.
Steady week this week too as it's 3 Peaks on Saturday and want to try and get round without getting timed out.
> Chris05 - Sounds like you got some good bouldering in. Out of interest what’s the Notts wall like. I’m thinking of moving back to the UK and have been looking at job in Nottingham.
Notts wall changed venues recently. The main walls are quite good but there is no proper training area at the moment (apart from a couple of fingerboards), although I think they are intending to build one again. I'm not the greatest fan of indoor walls but it seems fairly good. Notts is good location for getting into the peak at the weekend but its a little far for an evening which is a shame! Happy to answer any questions you have..
STG: more 7A's
MTG (in 2001): 7A+/7B
M: 3x DB complex, 4.5m run, core (500) & theraband
T: 3xDB complex, press-ups, BM: pull-ups and one arm max hangs, core (500) & theraband
W: nothing
T: nothing
F: drove to see relatives in Norfolk
S: 5m run
S: 6m run
Rubbish week but hopefully the next will be better!
In reply to TonyB:
cheers for standing in.
M:
T:kilnsey trip - disastrous and poor! osteopath had done something to my neck, also felt fluey. failed to onsight a 6b+. enough said! bicep tweak as well!
W:
Th: couldn't get out after work
F: family
Sat: still felt poor, cancelled trip for R&R.
Sun: family
hope to get out monday and hopefully bicep issue doesn't get in the way too much.
cheers for standing in.
M:
T:kilnsey trip - disastrous and poor! osteopath had done something to my neck, also felt fluey. failed to onsight a 6b+. enough said! bicep tweak as well!
W:
Th: couldn't get out after work
F: family
Sat: still felt poor, cancelled trip for R&R.
Sun: family
hope to get out monday and hopefully bicep issue doesn't get in the way too much.
In reply to TonyB:
Taper week 1 of 3.
M -
T -
W - 4 miles road run, steady
T - 4.4 miles road run am steady, 3.3 miles road run pm pace
F - 4.3 miles road run with child, easy
S - 8.3 miles road run, with 6.3 pace (7:06 m/m)
S - 12 miles road run, with second half pace (7:16 m/m), hillyish
All felt tired and sore. I'm hoping more serious rest over the next two weeks will sort this out.
Taper week 1 of 3.
M -
T -
W - 4 miles road run, steady
T - 4.4 miles road run am steady, 3.3 miles road run pm pace
F - 4.3 miles road run with child, easy
S - 8.3 miles road run, with 6.3 pace (7:06 m/m)
S - 12 miles road run, with second half pace (7:16 m/m), hillyish
All felt tired and sore. I'm hoping more serious rest over the next two weeks will sort this out.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+ outside
RP 6c or above indoors
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Football training. 1hr. Good session lots of running.
W: ROKT session. 2hr Nice session worked on problems all over. climbed quite well I thought.
T: Rest
F: Rest Drinking. Lots of drinking
S: Football Match. 10mins. Too hot. Sweaty day hung over from, friday night glad I was sub. End of the season.
S: Trad Hobby moor. Sunny grit climbing in a quarry. Great!. Lead 2xHVS 1xVS and 1xE1. Also did a V1 boulder problem
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Good rest week! two climbing sessions. Solid at HVS still need to onsight an E1 and get in some multipitch climbing.
Cheers Tony
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above
RP 6b+ outside
RP 6c or above indoors
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder v6
RP 6c outside
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Football training. 1hr. Good session lots of running.
W: ROKT session. 2hr Nice session worked on problems all over. climbed quite well I thought.
T: Rest
F: Rest Drinking. Lots of drinking
S: Football Match. 10mins. Too hot. Sweaty day hung over from, friday night glad I was sub. End of the season.
S: Trad Hobby moor. Sunny grit climbing in a quarry. Great!. Lead 2xHVS 1xVS and 1xE1. Also did a V1 boulder problem
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
Good rest week! two climbing sessions. Solid at HVS still need to onsight an E1 and get in some multipitch climbing.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony
Yea, getting towards STG, feeling solid at 6b, need to get on harder stuff every session at the wall now so that 6b+ and above becomes the same.
Good busy week, been up to Wales for 3 days, weather was great which is certainly not taken for granted up there! I had no partner so I did a bit of soloing.
Monday: did a few routes on little Tryfan, felt tired from poor nights sleep & travel so didn’t push it, S 4a was as hard as I went but that’s about as far I figure I will go without a rope right now, was great fun, nice wandering of line to find the harder bits.
Tues: was a trip to the beach to keep the other half and ankle her biter happy.
Weds: I soloed the Sub-Cneifion Rib, nice to up in the mountains again, no hairy moments but certainly kept me focused for an hour or so.
Thursday: Travel back home, did check out the Rac boulders on route for next time.
Friday : Short weight session, gonna try and get one done maybe once a week, just chest and biceps/triceps as they don’t seem to get the work out the rest of my upper body is getting
Saturday: Home bouldering, 90 min
Sunday: Home bouldering, 90 min
Hope to be having first trip up to the Roaches next week to give “real” bouldering ago. Might have a look at couple easy routes why I’m there, just trying to get a feel for the grit.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
Cheers Tony
Yea, getting towards STG, feeling solid at 6b, need to get on harder stuff every session at the wall now so that 6b+ and above becomes the same.
Good busy week, been up to Wales for 3 days, weather was great which is certainly not taken for granted up there! I had no partner so I did a bit of soloing.
Monday: did a few routes on little Tryfan, felt tired from poor nights sleep & travel so didn’t push it, S 4a was as hard as I went but that’s about as far I figure I will go without a rope right now, was great fun, nice wandering of line to find the harder bits.
Tues: was a trip to the beach to keep the other half and ankle her biter happy.
Weds: I soloed the Sub-Cneifion Rib, nice to up in the mountains again, no hairy moments but certainly kept me focused for an hour or so.
Thursday: Travel back home, did check out the Rac boulders on route for next time.
Friday : Short weight session, gonna try and get one done maybe once a week, just chest and biceps/triceps as they don’t seem to get the work out the rest of my upper body is getting
Saturday: Home bouldering, 90 min
Sunday: Home bouldering, 90 min
Hope to be having first trip up to the Roaches next week to give “real” bouldering ago. Might have a look at couple easy routes why I’m there, just trying to get a feel for the grit.
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
In reply to TonyB:
Terrible week, nothing to report, except I still have flu and a dodgy elbow.
M - S - Sick with flu
Terrible week, nothing to report, except I still have flu and a dodgy elbow.
M - S - Sick with flu
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers.
M: Rest - travel home.
T: 7mile fell run Tal Y Fan from Llangelynin Church
W: Nothing - Ill
T: Recovering 3mile walk.
F: 5mile beach run and 3mile walk
S: 10mile trail/fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy Mountain and 3mile walk
S: 10mile trail/fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy Mountain
Cheers.
M: Rest - travel home.
T: 7mile fell run Tal Y Fan from Llangelynin Church
W: Nothing - Ill
T: Recovering 3mile walk.
F: 5mile beach run and 3mile walk
S: 10mile trail/fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy Mountain and 3mile walk
S: 10mile trail/fell run Sychnant Pass/Conwy Mountain
In reply to TonyB:
Fitclub 213
I just had two sessions before Font. The snow has melted and it was great to get out on rock. The first was a quick roped climbing session where I seconded a VS and then onsighted a 6c+. I was pretty chuffed with the 6c+ OS as a first lead in 3.5 months. Although I've onsighted one 7a and flashed one 7a before, 6c was my best OS in Finland and I've always considered Finland a hard place to OS as the routes tend to be quite sequence specific. The route was well chalked which helped massively.
The next day I had the most productive boulder session I've ever had. I climbed a 6B arete on slopers fairly quickly and then 10 mins later added the 7A sit start to it. Although I've been ticking quite a few 7A problems indoors, this is only my second outdoors. I then got a 6C+ second go and came within a whisker of getting the 7A direct start. I thought things were looking great for Font.
Fitclub 214
OK, I'll start with the excuses. Trading cool granite at 4oC for 20oC polished sandstone didn't come as easily as I'd hoped. Also as Font was a family holiday it meant that I couldn't get out in the early morning or late evening to pick the coolest temps. All in all, I failed to climb anything hard and couldn't tick a single 7A. I don't think it was that I wasn't strong enough, just simply that the various aspects of my game didn't come together. It was really inspiring reading about Jimmy's Font trip, but for me the sudden switch in temperatures left me lethargic. There were some great positives to come from the trip though. Font was great fun. My wife climbed her first 6A. We proved that having a family holiday with our 6 month baby and my parents could work really well and that we could get a reasonable amount of climbing in.
Aims for next week
It's 18oC in Finland! I'm pretty keen to tick some harder boulder problems. This week I'd like to do Sakai Direct at Haukilahti which I didn't quite get before going to Font. I also have a RP project left over from last year (Molotov Cocktail 7b+), it's quite sharp rock, so when the fingers toughen up a bit I'd like to remind myself of the moves.
Aims before end of May (performance bias towards bouldering; training bias towards short 20-30 move circuits)
Outdoor bouldering every week and preferably two sessions. Tick two 7A problems in each of the following styles. Slab 0/2, Sloper 1/2, crimps 0/2, overhang 0/2, dyno 0/2, vertical 0/2.
Continue work towards 7c pyramid favoring short bouldery projects.
Indoor 20-30 move circuits.
Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
Fitclub 213
I just had two sessions before Font. The snow has melted and it was great to get out on rock. The first was a quick roped climbing session where I seconded a VS and then onsighted a 6c+. I was pretty chuffed with the 6c+ OS as a first lead in 3.5 months. Although I've onsighted one 7a and flashed one 7a before, 6c was my best OS in Finland and I've always considered Finland a hard place to OS as the routes tend to be quite sequence specific. The route was well chalked which helped massively.
The next day I had the most productive boulder session I've ever had. I climbed a 6B arete on slopers fairly quickly and then 10 mins later added the 7A sit start to it. Although I've been ticking quite a few 7A problems indoors, this is only my second outdoors. I then got a 6C+ second go and came within a whisker of getting the 7A direct start. I thought things were looking great for Font.
Fitclub 214
OK, I'll start with the excuses. Trading cool granite at 4oC for 20oC polished sandstone didn't come as easily as I'd hoped. Also as Font was a family holiday it meant that I couldn't get out in the early morning or late evening to pick the coolest temps. All in all, I failed to climb anything hard and couldn't tick a single 7A. I don't think it was that I wasn't strong enough, just simply that the various aspects of my game didn't come together. It was really inspiring reading about Jimmy's Font trip, but for me the sudden switch in temperatures left me lethargic. There were some great positives to come from the trip though. Font was great fun. My wife climbed her first 6A. We proved that having a family holiday with our 6 month baby and my parents could work really well and that we could get a reasonable amount of climbing in.
Aims for next week
It's 18oC in Finland! I'm pretty keen to tick some harder boulder problems. This week I'd like to do Sakai Direct at Haukilahti which I didn't quite get before going to Font. I also have a RP project left over from last year (Molotov Cocktail 7b+), it's quite sharp rock, so when the fingers toughen up a bit I'd like to remind myself of the moves.
Aims before end of May (performance bias towards bouldering; training bias towards short 20-30 move circuits)
Outdoor bouldering every week and preferably two sessions. Tick two 7A problems in each of the following styles. Slab 0/2, Sloper 1/2, crimps 0/2, overhang 0/2, dyno 0/2, vertical 0/2.
Continue work towards 7c pyramid favoring short bouldery projects.
Indoor 20-30 move circuits.
Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks, Tony... good enough to get running again after a couple of days but not pretty (which they've never been)! Some cycling (first of the year) and loads of easy hill running (on carefully-chosen easy hills!) this week, so hopefully just needing a sensible mini-taper (which shouldn't be too difficult being at work Tuesday to Friday) over the next few days to be fit for the Fling on Saturday.
M: [59.7] MTB round the loch (20 miles)
T: [51.8] MTB Clachaig/An Torr (20-something miles)
W: [51.8] Run Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: [60.6] Run Drumochter (4 Munros, 1 Corbett etc.), 15.4 miles/4,300 ft
F: [76.9] Run Drumochter (2 Munros, 1 Top etc.), 16.3 miles/3,500 ft
S: [58.3] Run Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [59.7] Run Monadh Liath (3 Munros, 3 Tops etc.), 17.0 miles/3,800 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> Petestack - Hope the toenails improve soon
Thanks, Tony... good enough to get running again after a couple of days but not pretty (which they've never been)! Some cycling (first of the year) and loads of easy hill running (on carefully-chosen easy hills!) this week, so hopefully just needing a sensible mini-taper (which shouldn't be too difficult being at work Tuesday to Friday) over the next few days to be fit for the Fling on Saturday.
M: [59.7] MTB round the loch (20 miles)
T: [51.8] MTB Clachaig/An Torr (20-something miles)
W: [51.8] Run Full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
T: [60.6] Run Drumochter (4 Munros, 1 Corbett etc.), 15.4 miles/4,300 ft
F: [76.9] Run Drumochter (2 Munros, 1 Top etc.), 16.3 miles/3,500 ft
S: [58.3] Run Reverse Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [59.7] Run Monadh Liath (3 Munros, 3 Tops etc.), 17.0 miles/3,800 ft
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to TonyB:
Mon - At the wall. Close to getting a 6b cleanly on lead. Can climb it cleanly all the way to the crux (2nd last move) but then too pumped to make the big move. Hope to get it next time.
Tue - 3mile run on road and through woodland. Average pace 9mins 6secs/mile.
had a play on our woody for an hour.
Wed - 4.83 miles off road run. Average pace 9mins 39 secs/mile
Thurs - 3mile run off road. Average pace 9mins 21 secs/mile
Fri - short bouldering session. Didn't try anything hard, just did every single easy problem on the wall (about 30 probs up to V1)
Sat - cycled 6.22miles to some woods. Then ran 3miles, average pace 8mins 49 secs/mile. Pleased with this run, my pace is picking up (probably cos my legs were well warmed up from cycling) I ran the first 2miles at around 8mins per mile but was running the last bit up hill and into the wind and that slowed me loads!) Then cycled the 6.22miles home up hill and into the wind.
Sun - 26.5 mile hill day. 12.5 miles on the bike and 14miles on the hill (Ben Avon)
Weight - I put on 0.5kg. Really frustrating as I exercised lots this week and was eating well. I always really struggle to lose weight these days and don't know where I'm going wrong with it
Mon - At the wall. Close to getting a 6b cleanly on lead. Can climb it cleanly all the way to the crux (2nd last move) but then too pumped to make the big move. Hope to get it next time.
Tue - 3mile run on road and through woodland. Average pace 9mins 6secs/mile.
had a play on our woody for an hour.
Wed - 4.83 miles off road run. Average pace 9mins 39 secs/mile
Thurs - 3mile run off road. Average pace 9mins 21 secs/mile
Fri - short bouldering session. Didn't try anything hard, just did every single easy problem on the wall (about 30 probs up to V1)
Sat - cycled 6.22miles to some woods. Then ran 3miles, average pace 8mins 49 secs/mile. Pleased with this run, my pace is picking up (probably cos my legs were well warmed up from cycling) I ran the first 2miles at around 8mins per mile but was running the last bit up hill and into the wind and that slowed me loads!) Then cycled the 6.22miles home up hill and into the wind.
Sun - 26.5 mile hill day. 12.5 miles on the bike and 14miles on the hill (Ben Avon)
Weight - I put on 0.5kg. Really frustrating as I exercised lots this week and was eating well. I always really struggle to lose weight these days and don't know where I'm going wrong with it
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers, not that being physched meant I actually got any done though.
Monday: Almscliff bouldering/easy soloing.
Tuesday: Bouldering at wall
Wednesday: Bouldering at wall
Thursday: Brimham, bouldering. Didn't get anything done really, but so close to getting "the anchor", which would be first V7.
Friday: Bouldering at home.
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Nothing
STG's were
V6 - Tick
VS solo - Tick
More Trad/Sport - Partial Tick
7C indoors - Fail.
Havent thought of any new ones but I've got exams coming up so i'm going to have to focus on that for a while. :/
Cheers, not that being physched meant I actually got any done though.
Monday: Almscliff bouldering/easy soloing.
Tuesday: Bouldering at wall
Wednesday: Bouldering at wall
Thursday: Brimham, bouldering. Didn't get anything done really, but so close to getting "the anchor", which would be first V7.
Friday: Bouldering at home.
Saturday: Nothing
Sunday: Nothing
STG's were
V6 - Tick
VS solo - Tick
More Trad/Sport - Partial Tick
7C indoors - Fail.
Havent thought of any new ones but I've got exams coming up so i'm going to have to focus on that for a while. :/
THank you TonyB:
Upcoming races:
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: went to the climbing wall, only to be unable to find anyone of the group I normally climb with, so went home again. Maybe no bad thing as I was quite tired.
Tu: 10 miles in 1h 30 as 9:1 run:walk. Enjoyed it.
W: club swim 1 hour. Nearly didn't go as I was tired, but dragged myself along and the coach I was swimming "strongly"!
Th: ran 6km in 30 minutes
F: rest
Sa: Kinross Sportive. 140km, 1700m ascent. That is 40km further than I've ever cycled before. 6h15 or so rolling time according to my Garmin, 6:32 official time including stops. Happy with that, especially as it pissed it down with rain for a lot of the time, and I also got quite bad stomach cramps at one point which slowed me down a bit.
Su: nothing.
Upcoming races:
Kinross Sportive (87 hilly miles) 23rd April
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
M: went to the climbing wall, only to be unable to find anyone of the group I normally climb with, so went home again. Maybe no bad thing as I was quite tired.
Tu: 10 miles in 1h 30 as 9:1 run:walk. Enjoyed it.
W: club swim 1 hour. Nearly didn't go as I was tired, but dragged myself along and the coach I was swimming "strongly"!
Th: ran 6km in 30 minutes
F: rest
Sa: Kinross Sportive. 140km, 1700m ascent. That is 40km further than I've ever cycled before. 6h15 or so rolling time according to my Garmin, 6:32 official time including stops. Happy with that, especially as it pissed it down with rain for a lot of the time, and I also got quite bad stomach cramps at one point which slowed me down a bit.
Su: nothing.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony.
M - rest
T - 6 mile/500' trail/road run near corhampton
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 11.5 mile/3600' fell race. awful time of around 2:57 but haven't done much training for quite a while. knee went with much of the descending still to do. need to get stronger and train more consistently.
S - rest
M - rest
T - 6 mile/500' trail/road run near corhampton
W - rest
T - rest
F - rest
S - 11.5 mile/3600' fell race. awful time of around 2:57 but haven't done much training for quite a while. knee went with much of the descending still to do. need to get stronger and train more consistently.
S - rest
In reply to TonyB:
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.5
Focus: Anerobic 0/2
Mon: Rest.
Tue: Climbing at Castle Naze (max HVS).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Chest & Back (174).
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Climbing in the pass (max HVS).
Been plagued with back ache & split finger tips this week, hence the training has been poor.
Really good to get out in the pass on Sunday (first time in years). Climbed a HVS called Wind that I found surprisingly tricky. It is only the fact I know I've been training that I had the confidence to make it in one push & not scream "TAKE". Wanted to try an e2 called Slape Direct, laziness & fear got the better of me though so we went to the boulders instead.
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2
MGT: V1, V2, V2, V2
LTG(2011): Classic top end e3 (Foil?, Sunlover?, Pleasure Dome?, Test Case?, Kafoozalem?, Dream Liberator?)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.5
Focus: Anerobic 0/2
Mon: Rest.
Tue: Climbing at Castle Naze (max HVS).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Chest & Back (174).
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Climbing in the pass (max HVS).
Been plagued with back ache & split finger tips this week, hence the training has been poor.
Really good to get out in the pass on Sunday (first time in years). Climbed a HVS called Wind that I found surprisingly tricky. It is only the fact I know I've been training that I had the confidence to make it in one push & not scream "TAKE". Wanted to try an e2 called Slape Direct, laziness & fear got the better of me though so we went to the boulders instead.
STG: V1, V1+, V1+, V2
In reply to TonyB:
It was so good bud. So good.
Malham and Kilnsey on wednesday and thursday. Feel free to fire any recommendations at me. I was planning on trying Comedy and Raindogs. Really psyched as this is going to be my first time to the 2 of the UK's 'classic' sport crags.
M- Rest day.
T- Cheedale. Got shut down at Rubicon on Hot Fun because it was too hot so retreated to cheedale and played on some mid 7's.
W- Dinbren (Too hot to climb and got depsyched so did some repeaters, campussing and core exercises.)
T-Training (repeaters, campus board and core work out)
F-Training then Work (Barrel session.)
S-Work
S-Work
It was so good bud. So good.
Malham and Kilnsey on wednesday and thursday. Feel free to fire any recommendations at me. I was planning on trying Comedy and Raindogs. Really psyched as this is going to be my first time to the 2 of the UK's 'classic' sport crags.
M- Rest day.
T- Cheedale. Got shut down at Rubicon on Hot Fun because it was too hot so retreated to cheedale and played on some mid 7's.
W- Dinbren (Too hot to climb and got depsyched so did some repeaters, campussing and core exercises.)
T-Training (repeaters, campus board and core work out)
F-Training then Work (Barrel session.)
S-Work
S-Work
In reply to JimmyKay: At Malham go for New dawn and Tremelo 7c, Mescalito, L'Obsession and Herbie 7c+, Raindogs, Zoolook and Baboo Baboo 8a.
Kilnsey - Comedy 7b+, Dominatrix and Biological 7c, The Ashes and Mr Nice 7c+, The Thumb and Subculture 8a.
Should keep you busy for a day or two.
Andy F
Kilnsey - Comedy 7b+, Dominatrix and Biological 7c, The Ashes and Mr Nice 7c+, The Thumb and Subculture 8a.
Should keep you busy for a day or two.
Andy F
In reply to JimmyKay:
Just incase it's not been made obvious already, go to Kilnsey if the sun is out as Malham gets crazy hot. If it's overcast and a bit windy go to Malham.
Just incase it's not been made obvious already, go to Kilnsey if the sun is out as Malham gets crazy hot. If it's overcast and a bit windy go to Malham.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks for taking over Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
Tues: Trad puntering - pretty much back to where I was at the end of last summer (onsighting E1s regularly with success) so now is the time to start pushing.
Sat: Easy sport - Good day at robin proctor's, mostly easy stuff including a couple of 6c's.
It's now been a full month of not pulling hard in an attempt to fix the finger. It's feeling almost healed so I'm going to test it out with some bouldering this week and hoping to be back at Malham/Kilnsey this weekend.
Thanks for taking over Tony.
STG (end of sept 2011): E2 onsight, more 7b's at malham/kilnsey
MTG: (end of 2011): Yorkshire Limestone 7b+
Tues: Trad puntering - pretty much back to where I was at the end of last summer (onsighting E1s regularly with success) so now is the time to start pushing.
Sat: Easy sport - Good day at robin proctor's, mostly easy stuff including a couple of 6c's.
It's now been a full month of not pulling hard in an attempt to fix the finger. It's feeling almost healed so I'm going to test it out with some bouldering this week and hoping to be back at Malham/Kilnsey this weekend.
In reply to andy farnell:
STOP IT !
> (In reply to JimmyKay) At Malham go for New dawn and Tremelo 7c, Mescalito, L'Obsession and Herbie 7c+, Raindogs, Zoolook and Baboo Baboo 8a.
>
> Kilnsey - Comedy 7b+,
>
>
> Kilnsey - Comedy 7b+,
>
STOP IT !
In reply to biscuit:
Ooops, a bit of a typo...
Andy F
> (In reply to andy farnell)
> [...]
>
>
> STOP IT !
> [...]
>
>
> STOP IT !
Ooops, a bit of a typo...
Andy F
In reply to TonyB:
Many thanks Tony and un lucky about Font. Your 'excuses' sound valid enough to me.
M -Core 200 movements, 10 ab wheel rolls,10 front lever extended tucks.
Bolton complexes x3.
Half hour run with dog
T - Core, as above.
Bolton complexes
Half hour run with dog
W - Half hour run with dog
An Cap - only managed 6 repeats of a 10 move V4 with 5 min rest before i had to leave and get home.
T -An Cap 10 reps this time with between 5 and 3 mins rest. Felt a lot easier. Different feel to St Bees problem. Eve routes at Reecastle. HVS, E25b, E2 5c failed on E3 6a - i was totally battered and just couldn't get up it.
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Nothing
Good start to the week soon tailed off. Busy week with work just tired me out. I had been doing exercise before work but some early starts meant i couldn't face getting up at 5.30am to do sit ups so it didn't get done.
Body fat is coming down after a shock on the scales. I weighed myself after my birthday so put in my new age. Going from 34-35yrs old automatically adds 1.5% onto my body fat. That's ageist that is ! Once i'd figured out what it was i wasn't so unhappy and am lower than i've been for ages - 15.2% or 13.7% when i was 34.
I am looking at being really busy these next few weeks workwise. That's great obviously for money but not so good for climbing. I am working all weekends until the end of May - so not trips to Yorkshire on the cards. I may have to seriously reconsider my goals. I need to be doing fitness climbing twice a week, bouldering once and climbing once. This just isn't happening and i can see a way to make it happen.
I'm going to plough through the best i can and see where i am at the end of next month and re-evaluate then.
Many thanks Tony and un lucky about Font. Your 'excuses' sound valid enough to me.
M -Core 200 movements, 10 ab wheel rolls,10 front lever extended tucks.
Bolton complexes x3.
Half hour run with dog
T - Core, as above.
Bolton complexes
Half hour run with dog
W - Half hour run with dog
An Cap - only managed 6 repeats of a 10 move V4 with 5 min rest before i had to leave and get home.
T -An Cap 10 reps this time with between 5 and 3 mins rest. Felt a lot easier. Different feel to St Bees problem. Eve routes at Reecastle. HVS, E25b, E2 5c failed on E3 6a - i was totally battered and just couldn't get up it.
F - Nothing
S - Nothing
S - Nothing
Good start to the week soon tailed off. Busy week with work just tired me out. I had been doing exercise before work but some early starts meant i couldn't face getting up at 5.30am to do sit ups so it didn't get done.
Body fat is coming down after a shock on the scales. I weighed myself after my birthday so put in my new age. Going from 34-35yrs old automatically adds 1.5% onto my body fat. That's ageist that is ! Once i'd figured out what it was i wasn't so unhappy and am lower than i've been for ages - 15.2% or 13.7% when i was 34.
I am looking at being really busy these next few weeks workwise. That's great obviously for money but not so good for climbing. I am working all weekends until the end of May - so not trips to Yorkshire on the cards. I may have to seriously reconsider my goals. I need to be doing fitness climbing twice a week, bouldering once and climbing once. This just isn't happening and i can see a way to make it happen.
I'm going to plough through the best i can and see where i am at the end of next month and re-evaluate then.
In reply to TonyB:
Balls, I'm massively wussing out of yorkshire. Just put 40 in my car and only got 3/4's full so I'm going to Llandudno instead. Need more than 1 night to justify the 3hour drive. No point getting there poor and tired...
Balls, I'm massively wussing out of yorkshire. Just put 40 in my car and only got 3/4's full so I'm going to Llandudno instead. Need more than 1 night to justify the 3hour drive. No point getting there poor and tired...
Was a toughy, found results now 24th / 108 so happy with that
Mon - nothing
Tue - 8 miles run up Moel Siabod
Wed - nowt
Thu - 4 miles on the road
Fri - nowt
Sat - 8 miles trail run
Sun - 10 miles fell run Y Ro Wen and Moel Penamnen from the front door!
Mon - nothing
Tue - 8 miles run up Moel Siabod
Wed - nowt
Thu - 4 miles on the road
Fri - nowt
Sat - 8 miles trail run
Sun - 10 miles fell run Y Ro Wen and Moel Penamnen from the front door!
In reply to Jeriqo:
m: Trunce fell race, short fast blast
t: 3.5 mile trail run
w: day 1 Mallorca: 18.5 mile, 1300m ascent mountain run. pm: climbed half a route, wrist not too bad.
t: day 2 mallorca: am: 10.5 mile 1000m ascent mountain run. pm: 4.5 mile road run.
f: day 3 mallorca: am: 10 mile trail run. pm: 3 mile 600ft ascent mountain run
s: day 4 mallorca 10k trail race. 12th 39:11 (out of ~320), probably 5 minutes or so off pb so OK run on tired legs.
s: day 5 mallorca 10.5 mile 1000m ascent mountain run. pm: climbed 3 routes, including leading and felt wrist improving. Off to states soon working, but reckon will be back climbing and bouldering without too much concern by the middle of next month.
m: Trunce fell race, short fast blast
t: 3.5 mile trail run
w: day 1 Mallorca: 18.5 mile, 1300m ascent mountain run. pm: climbed half a route, wrist not too bad.
t: day 2 mallorca: am: 10.5 mile 1000m ascent mountain run. pm: 4.5 mile road run.
f: day 3 mallorca: am: 10 mile trail run. pm: 3 mile 600ft ascent mountain run
s: day 4 mallorca 10k trail race. 12th 39:11 (out of ~320), probably 5 minutes or so off pb so OK run on tired legs.
s: day 5 mallorca 10.5 mile 1000m ascent mountain run. pm: climbed 3 routes, including leading and felt wrist improving. Off to states soon working, but reckon will be back climbing and bouldering without too much concern by the middle of next month.
In reply to TonyB:
Two weeks to report. Nothing remarkable on the first, but had a great time in Font. Got loads of mileage on the circuits, felt the footwork and confidence improving by the day, and ticked my first pair of “proper” Font 6a’s on the last day.
M:
T: Climbing works
W: Ran 10 km in 52:30
T:
F:
S: Evening bouldering in Apremont E
S: 95.2 Blue circuit problems + quick visit to Istatis in evening
M: Bois Rond Blue circuit + Oranges
T: Sabots Blue circuit (superb!) after warming up on Yellows
W: 95.1 Orange and some blues, then back to Sabots after lunch
T: Canche aux Merciers Oranges then Blues
F: Rocher Cannon Oranges, Blues + first couple of 6a’s on red circuit
S: Flew to conference in San Francisco!
S: Tired...
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours)
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
Two weeks to report. Nothing remarkable on the first, but had a great time in Font. Got loads of mileage on the circuits, felt the footwork and confidence improving by the day, and ticked my first pair of “proper” Font 6a’s on the last day.
M:
T: Climbing works
W: Ran 10 km in 52:30
T:
F:
S: Evening bouldering in Apremont E
S: 95.2 Blue circuit problems + quick visit to Istatis in evening
M: Bois Rond Blue circuit + Oranges
T: Sabots Blue circuit (superb!) after warming up on Yellows
W: 95.1 Orange and some blues, then back to Sabots after lunch
T: Canche aux Merciers Oranges then Blues
F: Rocher Cannon Oranges, Blues + first couple of 6a’s on red circuit
S: Flew to conference in San Francisco!
S: Tired...
STG: Half marathon (8th May < 2 hours)
MTG: Trad week in Snowdonia
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c)
In reply to andy:
If you time out, most of us haven't got a chance!
Cheers, Tony
Mon: 11k easy trail run.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: 10k easy road run, managing to get lost while rarely more than a mile from home!
Thu: Nothing
Fri: 122k cycle from Leeds to Scarborough, generally easy pace and effort (except fighting the wind near the coast), with a few longish pauses for food.
Sat: First Roundhay Park run, 5k 21.03. Started steady and pushed hard from half way-ish. Bit of a tough route as it does the same short (3-400m) but steep climb 3 1/2 times (it starts half way up it, and finishes 3 laps later at the top of it), but is quite pleasant.
Sun: Guiseley Gallop 10k trail race, 45.43 steady for first few k as I started a little far back and got caught in traffic, but picked the effort up from about 3-4k and pushed hard for the last up hill bit. Really nice but tough course.
Not entirely sure it fits the text book definition of a taper, spending 5 hrs cycling and doing two races both reasonably hard, but it was too nice to skip the opportunity.
Will be a very leisurely week before the 3 Peaks, which I'm hoping isn't too warm, and that I'll feel lively on the morning. H has suggested she'll be at Sulber Nick to get revenge for my 'chase the jelly baby' antics at the end of a race last year!
> Steady week this week too as it's 3 Peaks on Saturday and want to try and get round without getting timed out.
If you time out, most of us haven't got a chance!
Cheers, Tony
Mon: 11k easy trail run.
Tue: Nothing
Wed: 10k easy road run, managing to get lost while rarely more than a mile from home!
Thu: Nothing
Fri: 122k cycle from Leeds to Scarborough, generally easy pace and effort (except fighting the wind near the coast), with a few longish pauses for food.
Sat: First Roundhay Park run, 5k 21.03. Started steady and pushed hard from half way-ish. Bit of a tough route as it does the same short (3-400m) but steep climb 3 1/2 times (it starts half way up it, and finishes 3 laps later at the top of it), but is quite pleasant.
Sun: Guiseley Gallop 10k trail race, 45.43 steady for first few k as I started a little far back and got caught in traffic, but picked the effort up from about 3-4k and pushed hard for the last up hill bit. Really nice but tough course.
Not entirely sure it fits the text book definition of a taper, spending 5 hrs cycling and doing two races both reasonably hard, but it was too nice to skip the opportunity.
Will be a very leisurely week before the 3 Peaks, which I'm hoping isn't too warm, and that I'll feel lively on the morning. H has suggested she'll be at Sulber Nick to get revenge for my 'chase the jelly baby' antics at the end of a race last year!
In reply to TonyB:
Hi Tony,
Had to check how you are getting on after the winter...
Let me know when you want to try Buu Klubben and I'll come and belay, and perhaps try myself. I've only been out a couple of times so far but feel OK.
cheers
Dave
>
> Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
> Get on Buu Kluben (8a) just to feel how hard it is. Am I strong enough to make the individual moves?
Hi Tony,
Had to check how you are getting on after the winter...
Let me know when you want to try Buu Klubben and I'll come and belay, and perhaps try myself. I've only been out a couple of times so far but feel OK.
cheers
Dave
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, sounds like font was fine, I was miles off a font 7a this year again. At least you'll get a second go as it sounded a success overall.
Last week:
Mon: Got back from font
Tues: Indoors - did hard greys, bouldered a bit.
Wed: skin rest
Thur: skin rest
Fri-This week wednesday - N Wales: Didn't really push it, got a few v3/4s at port ysgo & llanberis. E3 on slate (dervish) clean first time. And a couple of easy mountain routes. Rest was Petes eats and the pub.
Back out on it on friday for another few days, maybe yorkshire...
Cheers!
Probably another late and disjointed post from me next week!
Kev
Cheers Tony, sounds like font was fine, I was miles off a font 7a this year again. At least you'll get a second go as it sounded a success overall.
Last week:
Mon: Got back from font
Tues: Indoors - did hard greys, bouldered a bit.
Wed: skin rest
Thur: skin rest
Fri-This week wednesday - N Wales: Didn't really push it, got a few v3/4s at port ysgo & llanberis. E3 on slate (dervish) clean first time. And a couple of easy mountain routes. Rest was Petes eats and the pub.
Back out on it on friday for another few days, maybe yorkshire...
Cheers!
Probably another late and disjointed post from me next week!
Kev
In reply to TonyB:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: 6k run, press ups, leg raises, sit ups
Tue: Rest
Wed: Bouldered at the Arch up to V5
Thu: Rest
Fri: Did Ampitheatre Buttress in the Ogwen valley, some really good situations for a vdiff. It was nice getting back on the trad and I think that it's whetted my appetite for more...
Sat: Bouldered at Carreg Hyll-drem (it was raining) - ticked the main up problems all at V4 and did the R-L traverse also at V4. Did a variation on one of the up problems by traversing in then up - not sure about grade (v5?). It'd be nice to have more of a topo developed for this crag as I'm sure there are loads of eliminates.
Sun: Bouldered on my own on the Mot side of the Pass - found this quite difficult as the boulders are huge and I bottled a couple of 20ft high top-outs. I did only have 2 small alpkit matts though! I should have ticked Utopia RH (V5) but I bottled the top slab and elected to downclimb! I did however tick a host of classics around V2/V3.
Monday: Was hungover but managed to tick a V5 (powerful sit down start) and a couple of other classics.
Not a bad weekend, am keen to get on some more trad during summer and I think I developed a good base strength for going to Font next week - so hpefully the STG will fall then!
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Mon: 6k run, press ups, leg raises, sit ups
Tue: Rest
Wed: Bouldered at the Arch up to V5
Thu: Rest
Fri: Did Ampitheatre Buttress in the Ogwen valley, some really good situations for a vdiff. It was nice getting back on the trad and I think that it's whetted my appetite for more...
Sat: Bouldered at Carreg Hyll-drem (it was raining) - ticked the main up problems all at V4 and did the R-L traverse also at V4. Did a variation on one of the up problems by traversing in then up - not sure about grade (v5?). It'd be nice to have more of a topo developed for this crag as I'm sure there are loads of eliminates.
Sun: Bouldered on my own on the Mot side of the Pass - found this quite difficult as the boulders are huge and I bottled a couple of 20ft high top-outs. I did only have 2 small alpkit matts though! I should have ticked Utopia RH (V5) but I bottled the top slab and elected to downclimb! I did however tick a host of classics around V2/V3.
Monday: Was hungover but managed to tick a V5 (powerful sit down start) and a couple of other classics.
Not a bad weekend, am keen to get on some more trad during summer and I think I developed a good base strength for going to Font next week - so hpefully the STG will fall then!
In reply to TonyB: Oops, almost got absent on the register for this week :P
One climbing session last week, was pretty standard, just trying to stop myself from getting any worse basically (doing everything i could find between around 6a-6b+). This week was a bit better but I'll leave that 'til tomorrow.
One climbing session last week, was pretty standard, just trying to stop myself from getting any worse basically (doing everything i could find between around 6a-6b+). This week was a bit better but I'll leave that 'til tomorrow.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again!!
Only a quick post as rested all week!
Thanks and back is much better plan to get out this week to Devon!
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks again!!
Only a quick post as rested all week!
Thanks and back is much better plan to get out this week to Devon!
Cheers
Gordon
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