UKC

Neil Mawson has nipped in to make a very fast repeat of a new route from James Pearson in Huntsman's Leap, Pembroke.

"I'd heard on the grape vine that James [Pearson] had done a new route in Huntsman's Leap. I quickly worked out where it went from the line of chalked holds below From Dusk till Dawn...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62108

In reply to UKC News: I might be totally wrong, but didn't James give it E9??

In reply to UKC News: more than likely...

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

E8, E9. Meh.

In reply to UKC News: Shouldn't the headline read: 'Pearson in route overgrade shocker'

Good effort Neil.

In reply to rooroo:

Mawson (IIRC) also was responsible for downgrading the other E9 in Huntsman's Leap to E8 (Chupacabra). Are you going to jump on Ben Bransby's case for the original overgrading of that? I suspect not.

Pearson can't win really, can he?

In reply to UKC News: Effort to Neil for quick repeat.

Maybe Dusk Till Dawn was overgraded then, seeing as James flashed that, and then climbed a direct harder more runout start into the difficulties of that route, without it's bomber gear. Anybody would think that would be a grade a harder...

There doesnt seem to be much use of the supposed open ended grading system at the top end for some people. Surely new route test pieces getting put up by extremely strong and bold climbers today are harder than the E8's of the early 80's...

Cheers, Ed

In reply to UKC News: Having read the 5.10 blog post Neil put up, he seems to say that Dusk Till Dawn was overgraded, saying that their is loads of gear and not as hard as San Simeon...

http://www.bigstone.co.uk/news/2011/05/11/Neil_Mawson_checks_in/

Dunc

In reply to Duncan Campbell:

I did think there was a very noticeable difference between the suggested French grades from the two of them. Be interesting to see where it settles out.

In reply to boothy:
The only E8 I can think of from the early '80s is Requiem at Dumbarton. Which is nails.

In reply to tim carruthers: Requiem was given E7 7a IIRC. Now settled at E8 6b.

Andy F

In reply to tim carruthers: yeh sorry, mor emid to late 80's. I was thinking about things like Doug and End of the Affair, and Quarryman.

Also after readin the blog that duncan has linked, that makes more sense why James new route would be E8. The thing is, Dave Pickford is a handy climber and is shown falling of Dusk... It would be interesting to send E6 leaders uo that and see how they get on. Also, Neil Mawson is a sport monster, so obviously all these routes in Pembroke are going to feel piss to him.

In reply to boothy:
And that's where it gets difficult. How can you compare a 12 metre grit "E8" to a big Welsh, Lakes or Scottish E8? I know which one I'd sooner try!

In reply to tim carruthers: Which is that??

In reply to UKC News:

This is a photo of Jerry Moffat rejuvinated...imo