UKC

4 people climbing on one rope???

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 ritid 11 May 2011
i was climbing this week at scout crags, and noticed a party of four climbing "route 1". the leader tentativley climbed the first pitch, then brought up the second. then (is this ok????) he threw down the rope for the third, brought her up, then threw down the rope to the 4th???. next pitch is a slight traverse then up an arete (exposed for diff) to a smallish ledge, i am not sure how they did because we headed off for another route, but four and a half hours later they where at the top of the crag in pouring rain. (guide book 1 hrs ascent)
Question is, is this normal practice to take 4 on one rope in this fashion????? did his climbing partners know what they where letting themselves in for?????
 Monk 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid:

It's unorthodox, but I can't really see a major problem with it. I've occaisionally been known to do silly things like this (and have climbed as a party of 5 before). It can be quite a sociable and fun thing to do.
In reply to ritid: who cares as long as they were safe and having fun.
 jkarran 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid:
> ...four and a half hours later they where at the top of the crag in pouring rain. (guide book 1 hrs ascent)

Whatever they did worked out ok then at least.

> Question is, is this normal practice to take 4 on one rope in this fashion?????

No. Nor is there any reason why it need be unsafe or excessively slow.

> did his climbing partners know what they where letting themselves in for?????

Who knows or cares.
jk
 GrahamD 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid:

If you are leading a party of 4 then some unconventional rope management is pretty much a must, I'd have thought. Sounds like a good mountain day out for them - rain and all.
In reply to jkarran: yeah, i was wondering how it would be if someone who had never climbed before was stood on a small ledge alone in high wind with the rope blowing 10 metres away!!! (sounds like a cliff hanger movie)
 Quiddity 11 May 2011
In reply to ilona torstensson:

> i was wondering how it would be if someone who had never climbed before was stood on a small ledge alone in high wind with the rope blowing 10 metres away!!! (sounds like a cliff hanger movie)

character building.
 GrahamD 11 May 2011
In reply to ilona torstensson:

Some people would love it and probably go on to be alpinists, others will hate it and probably migrate to mats and beanies.
 henwardian 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid: Nothing wrong with it really, if someone asked me how to do this though I would probably recommend using half ropes and either:
a)The initial second trails a further rope for the last second.
OR
b) If no pitches are more than 30 metres, have one second tie into the middle of one of the half ropes.

Of course, if you spend 4.5 hours on an hour route you should expect to be ribbed about it mercilessly for months or even years. I certainly was when I spent... I forget, maybe 3 hours on Twenty Minute Route!
 Offwidth 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid: Thats no good. You need a few more for a proper picnic.
 DJonsight 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid: This approach is fine so long as you take plenty of dope and booze for the belays.
OP ritid 11 May 2011
and a porta ledge
 staceyjg 11 May 2011
In reply to ritid:

We did this once, went and did Boo boo at Tremadoc. 5 of us climbing in the wet, only one volunteer to lead, it was interesting to say the least! ha ha!

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