UKC

whats on your rack?

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 WB 12 May 2011
for the average multi pitch i will carry: wires 1-6, wires 5-10, 2 short length runners, 6 medium runners, 2 long runners, friends 0 - 3.5, 6ft sling with screw gate, 12ft sling with scrwgate, nutkey on screwgate, 2 prussiks on a screwgate and belay.

in my bag i also have;2 long runners, friend 4, wires 1-6 and a long sling.

I try to take the appropriate gear for a route so will take less or more where needed, and it seems to work ok. That is, I have not often found myslef without a crucial bit of gear, although wide cracks can be interesting...

I was wondering what other people carried. If there was a favorite item or some esoteric bit of kit I should add to my rack.
 Monk 12 May 2011
In reply to WB:

I like to carry plenty of gear (and place it). On an average multipitch route, I would probably carry around 2 full sets of nuts (1-10), rockcentrics 5-7, 3 cams (1-3), 10 quickdraws (2x15cm, 4x18-20cm, 2x25cm and 2x30cm). I also have an HMS and a screwgate on my harness, 2x120cm slings with screwgates, 1x60cm sling with revolver and 2x60cm slings with wiregates. Depending on the route/rocktype I might add a couple of larger rockcentrics, more cams, microwires or more small-midsize nuts.

All pretty straightforward really. The thing I rely on most is small to medium sized nuts, and I frequently run out of them (I rarely stick to the guidebook pitches, usually trying to climb at least 30 metres between stances). I have recently started using tricams on limestone - they don't get placed that often, but when they do they are the only thing that will go in.
 jkarran 12 May 2011
In reply to WB:

Typically: A sort of hit and miss double set of nuts from RP0 up. Cams, 1 set from 'fingers' to 'hands' (Black Alien to 'fists' if I expect a fight). Roughly 16 extenders of one sort or another (20+ for long, hard or loose stuff) plus a 120 sling or two. Belay plate on a couple of screwgates and a nutkey.

Less if I've forgotten something. Add hooks, Tricams, a few extra cams and some bail tat and sometimes even the odd hex where I'm expecting trouble (or rubble).

jk
 mlmatt 12 May 2011
In reply to WB:

I carry around 35 wires (last count) seperated over 4 'biners. Around 8/10 of these are actually micro wires (or very small wires). Then 4 torque nuts, some cams (between 8 and 11). Then abour 12 runners (6/8 slingdraws).

Then prusiks, few lightweight screwgates, Large sling (240), two 60cm and two 120cm.

It probably sounds like a lot of gear to carry but I normally climb multipitch routes in wales and I don't find myself lacking in gear at least!
In reply to WB:

It depends so much on the rock type, grade and route style that it's impossible to generalise. For example, climbing on Cornish granite I'll usually take 7 or 8 hexes of varying sizes, and a double or even triple set of large nuts, but I'd not bother with any on slate...

So, somewhere between 10 and 50 nuts from RP0 to 10, somewhere between 0 and 8 hexes, up to 10 cams between my yellow zero (the cam of fear) and a size 6 camelot for those offwidth horrors, between 6 and 20 quickdraws of varying lemgths, and some slings and screwgates/HMSs (more for mutlipitch. Occasionally I might also take a skyhook, some tricams, an extra krab of tiny nuts (including a ballnut) or a big bro, depending on what I think I might be facing.

Usually I just take as much as I can fit on my harness...

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