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Keith Sharples reports: "A year ago the young top gun that is Adam Ondra blasted into The (Yorkshire) Dales and all but mopped-up. Well guess what? – He's back and straight down to work above the Malham Catwalk..."Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62186
In reply to UKC News:
Inspiring stuff.
One point though - the table shows Overshadow as F8b, yet it's mentioned at F9a+/b elsewhere (captioned on the McClure photo on Keith's blog).
What grade is it?
Inspiring stuff.
One point though - the table shows Overshadow as F8b, yet it's mentioned at F9a+/b elsewhere (captioned on the McClure photo on Keith's blog).
What grade is it?
In reply to UKC News: Why does he keep messing around on those bolted limestone routes? Any climber worth his salt proves himself on grit! Come on Ondra stop messing about
In reply to KarlH: because he want to get a sweat on, i expect he could most grit routes in wellies
In reply to UKC News: Is he also likely to visit Raven Tor and have a go at on-sighting Hubble. As well as doing Evolution/Mutation.
In reply to Ben Thorne:
typo I think
Steve McClure On The Grade Of His Route
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37419
He suggested 9a+ but said
"What grade is this new route? How important is it to get it right?
I'm not qualified to really say for sure. Others like Graham, Sharma, Andrada, Paxi and Ramon would have a much better idea, their track record of hard routes is greater. All the hard routes I've done are my own, and they are compared to confirmed 8c+ routes, but that doesn't mean they are 9a. This new route felt way harder than my '9's' but that doesn't make it 9a+, perhaps I was doing it wrong, it might be 8c+, but then maybe I was doing it perfectly and it's even harder.....
It seems important to stick a number on things these days. If you don't, everyone else will anyway. I suggest it could be 9a+, an estimate based on effort and experience. But then how important is it to get it right? Not important at all! Whats important is honestly suggesting a level. If it gets down graded so what, if it gets up graded, so what again. What counts is its a great route that tested me right to my limit. Had it been 9b or 8c the journey from start to finish would have been no more or less rewarding."
And the original Overshadow news report:
Steve McClure Succeeds at Malham. UK's Hardest Sport Route!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37399
typo I think
Steve McClure On The Grade Of His Route
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37419
He suggested 9a+ but said
"What grade is this new route? How important is it to get it right?
I'm not qualified to really say for sure. Others like Graham, Sharma, Andrada, Paxi and Ramon would have a much better idea, their track record of hard routes is greater. All the hard routes I've done are my own, and they are compared to confirmed 8c+ routes, but that doesn't mean they are 9a. This new route felt way harder than my '9's' but that doesn't make it 9a+, perhaps I was doing it wrong, it might be 8c+, but then maybe I was doing it perfectly and it's even harder.....
It seems important to stick a number on things these days. If you don't, everyone else will anyway. I suggest it could be 9a+, an estimate based on effort and experience. But then how important is it to get it right? Not important at all! Whats important is honestly suggesting a level. If it gets down graded so what, if it gets up graded, so what again. What counts is its a great route that tested me right to my limit. Had it been 9b or 8c the journey from start to finish would have been no more or less rewarding."
And the original Overshadow news report:
Steve McClure Succeeds at Malham. UK's Hardest Sport Route!
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=37399
In reply to UKC News: Is he going to try violent new breed? i thought that was a 9a+ and it's not like it's miles away.
I'd like to see him at LPT, the setting and routes are very unique and "The Big Bang" was one of the worlds earliest grade nine routes which is still waiting for a repeat but most importantly the tides are perfect this weekend.
In reply to UKC News:
Very odd post.
Basically some vauge none story that will have the effect of driving hoards of ondra spotters to a crag which has a reputation for being quite busy.
(Not) well done
Very odd post.
Basically some vauge none story that will have the effect of driving hoards of ondra spotters to a crag which has a reputation for being quite busy.
(Not) well done
In reply to Mr Plow:
It's not a non-story. I'd be furious if UKC knew and kept it quiet - that's not what journalism's about at all. And no, I'm not going to be going Onda-spotting any time soon, I just like to know.
It's not a non-story. I'd be furious if UKC knew and kept it quiet - that's not what journalism's about at all. And no, I'm not going to be going Onda-spotting any time soon, I just like to know.
In reply to The_JT:
furious?
...
furious?
The world really is full of a variety of personalities, and I'm glad of that. Just keep away from me and my friends & family with your fury please!
furious?
...
furious?
The world really is full of a variety of personalities, and I'm glad of that. Just keep away from me and my friends & family with your fury please!
In reply to Mr Plow: Another vote for NOT a none-story.
In reply to UKC News:
With reference to the table: dropped = fell off I assume?
Or something different?
Chris
With reference to the table: dropped = fell off I assume?
Or something different?
Chris
In reply to Mr Plow:
UK's hardest route, put up by our star player who basically said 'I don't know what grade it is', managed to repel world's best climber last year, arguably the only person in the world qualified to give an opinion on the grade, who mooted the potential for an upgrade (which, let's remember, could be to 9b ie. the same grade as the hardest routes in the world), and who is back in town for a rematch?
It's not a non-story.
> Basically some vauge none story
UK's hardest route, put up by our star player who basically said 'I don't know what grade it is', managed to repel world's best climber last year, arguably the only person in the world qualified to give an opinion on the grade, who mooted the potential for an upgrade (which, let's remember, could be to 9b ie. the same grade as the hardest routes in the world), and who is back in town for a rematch?
It's not a non-story.
In reply to UKC News: I want, nay, I demand updates on the hour. If this isn't news I don't know what is?!
In reply to Kemics:
Yes it would, it'd be absolutly stellar but this seems to be getting a bit out of hand now, and people seem to be talking it as read that it is 9b. Ondra said the route was hard but he also said he was trying the crux differently to how Steve had done it and only found out after bumping into him on the cat walk as he was leaving, two short sessions on a 9a+ is not that long even for AO.
> Wouldn't that be rad if Steve Mac had bagged a 9b unknowingly
Yes it would, it'd be absolutly stellar but this seems to be getting a bit out of hand now, and people seem to be talking it as read that it is 9b. Ondra said the route was hard but he also said he was trying the crux differently to how Steve had done it and only found out after bumping into him on the cat walk as he was leaving, two short sessions on a 9a+ is not that long even for AO.
In reply to UKC News:
What? No updates? He must have amassed another mighty list by now, it's almost 4pm.
What? No updates? He must have amassed another mighty list by now, it's almost 4pm.
In reply to catt: I was thinking the same myself. Wonder if he's onsighted Unjustified yet...
Andy F
Andy F
In reply to UKC News:
I heard Malham legged it
I heard Malham legged it
Is it news that Chris Savage climbed True North 8c at Kilnsey ? as I havent seen it anywhere.
Good to see home grown talent doing well!!
Good to see home grown talent doing well!!
In reply to cross: Good effort Chris! Come on the Brits!
In reply to cross:
Have you or him put a report in? UKC are good but they don't have a crystal ball.
E
> Is it news that Chris Savage climbed True North 8c at Kilnsey ? as I havent seen it anywhere.
>
> Good to see home grown talent doing well!!
>
> Good to see home grown talent doing well!!
Have you or him put a report in? UKC are good but they don't have a crystal ball.
E
Yep. Report made but no evidence seen
Brilliant effort Chris!
In reply to Enty: I belayed Chris 2 days previous and he was falling from high up after completely pathing the route below. Chris updated the redpoint on 8a.nu and he sent me a text when i enquired confirming it. Great achievement but evidently well within his abilities. And possibly good timeing as the dry crags cannot surely hold out with the ever increasing heavy showers
Cheers
Tim
Cheers
Tim
In reply to UKC News: Totally agree Malham has become a bloody circus on an average weekend without this bullshit . Why not give him some peace to get on with it and save the news of the world crap for later .
In reply to UKC News:
NEWS: Bunch of nobodies yap in the margins whilst talented lad does what he enjoys
NEWS: Bunch of nobodies yap in the margins whilst talented lad does what he enjoys
In reply to Michael Hood:
Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
> (In reply to UKC News) Is he also likely to visit Raven Tor and have a go at on-sighting Hubble. As well as doing Evolution/Mutation.
Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
In reply to whispering nic:
I hear he's heading to Harpur Hill......he appreciates a good joke apparently
> (In reply to Michael Hood)
> [...]
>
> Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
> [...]
>
> Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
I hear he's heading to Harpur Hill......he appreciates a good joke apparently
In reply to UKC News: Anyone know if there is any up-to-date postingsof how he is getting on? perhaps on someone's blog?
DC
DC
In reply to Duncan Campbell: foot popped high up on an overshadow redpoint according to sources on ukb. hopefully he'll get it done today
In reply to GuyVG:
Hat's off to Steve M for putting overshadow up, the fact that it's taking Adam several attempts shows just how hard this route is!
Hat's off to Steve M for putting overshadow up, the fact that it's taking Adam several attempts shows just how hard this route is!
In reply to Duncan Campbell: He fell off from very high up today - I assume by the reaction of Adam that it was probably one of the last hard moves
In reply to NL: I think it's time he accepts he's not good enough and went home. I don't want him polishing it all up before my onsight attempt...
In reply to whispering nic:
I believe (last year) he was interested in historically significant sports routes of which Hubble is one.
> (In reply to Michael Hood)
> [...]
>
> Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
> [...]
>
> Why on Earth would he want to climb on Peak Limestone?! ;¬)
I believe (last year) he was interested in historically significant sports routes of which Hubble is one.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Yeh - he had one of his mates on a rope hanging out above the bulge videoing. Jaw dropping watching the sequence though - really inspiring stuff
Yeh - he had one of his mates on a rope hanging out above the bulge videoing. Jaw dropping watching the sequence though - really inspiring stuff
In reply to UKC News:
Be awesome for the Ondrawad to get the redpoint, also just as awesome for the grade to be confirmed either way.
Be awesome for the Ondrawad to get the redpoint, also just as awesome for the grade to be confirmed either way.
In reply to Michael Hood: Humour bypass?
In reply to whispering nic: Only temporary
In reply to UKC News:
Personally I kind of hope he can't do it. Declares it too hard with a proposed grade of hard 9b+ / 9c. Now wouldn't that raze a few eyebrows!!!
Personally I kind of hope he can't do it. Declares it too hard with a proposed grade of hard 9b+ / 9c. Now wouldn't that raze a few eyebrows!!!
In reply to Diggler:
My eyes are watering just thinking about it !
> Now wouldn't that raze a few eyebrows!!!
My eyes are watering just thinking about it !
In reply to UKC News:
What's with the utter lack of updates? Is there a super injunction on news coverage or someit?
If his foot's still popping we want to know! Or is it just pissing it down in Yorkshire?
What's with the utter lack of updates? Is there a super injunction on news coverage or someit?
If his foot's still popping we want to know! Or is it just pissing it down in Yorkshire?
In reply to catt:
It was baltic at Malham yesterday, as well as raining persistently. Ondra's best redpoint yet came mid-morning when he made it thru the crux (where he fell from on other goes) but fell from the last move onto vertical ground.
Best of luck to him for completing it before his return home.
It was baltic at Malham yesterday, as well as raining persistently. Ondra's best redpoint yet came mid-morning when he made it thru the crux (where he fell from on other goes) but fell from the last move onto vertical ground.
Best of luck to him for completing it before his return home.
In reply to ally smith: How long is he here for? anyone know??
In reply to catt:
If you want to be told when he gets it, you could just subscribe to his 8a.nu RSS feed.
http://8a.nu/rss/Main.aspx?UserId=1476&AscentType=0&ObjectClass=2
If you want to be told when he gets it, you could just subscribe to his 8a.nu RSS feed.
http://8a.nu/rss/Main.aspx?UserId=1476&AscentType=0&ObjectClass=2
Don’t think there’ll be an issue with rain stopping play this week – it’s been so dry for so long that it would take an enormous deluge to cause any problems. And baltic and windy (within limits) are exactly the conditions you want for trying the hard routes at Malham. Basically, like last year, he’s timed his trip extremely well. Conditions will only cause a problem if the wind dies down and the sun comes out – and that doesn’t look likely this week.
Tom – do you watch the Wimbledon final or do you wait to find out the result 2 weeks later when Nadal writes a blog about it? This is arguably the best sport climber in the world trying the hardest sport route in the UK. Unsurprisingly people are curious to see how he gets on… A few people who’ve been at the crag occasionally posting how he’s getting on isn’t exactly a problem - it’s not like the hysteria surrounding the repeats of Rhapsody now is it
Keith – apparently Jean-Paul Finné from Belgium onsighted Zoolook back in 93.
Tom – do you watch the Wimbledon final or do you wait to find out the result 2 weeks later when Nadal writes a blog about it? This is arguably the best sport climber in the world trying the hardest sport route in the UK. Unsurprisingly people are curious to see how he gets on… A few people who’ve been at the crag occasionally posting how he’s getting on isn’t exactly a problem - it’s not like the hysteria surrounding the repeats of Rhapsody now is it
Keith – apparently Jean-Paul Finné from Belgium onsighted Zoolook back in 93.
Didn't Jerry Moffat onsight it in 1989, or was it a near miss? I definitely have read that somewhere, perhaps in High magazine. I think he did Predator on toprope cleanly on the same day.
In reply to teddy: yes on my quickdraws just after id redpointed it was inspiring stuff . Id actually left the quickdraw off as i couldnt clip it and taken a good forty footer in the process ! Anyway i forgot ? ! to put it back on not that it bothered JM very much . He did every move the none standard way just gritted his teeth and slapped his way to the belay ! He then turned to the packed cove and announced 'that was hell ' !! he also did Raindogs sraight off although he may have been on it briefly before and onsighted Baboo . He finished the day with Predator on a top rope in one . No doubt could have led it but didnt seem to bothered !! Legend .
In reply to UKC News: Apparently Adam did Overshadow today
In reply to Graeme Alderson:
Bravo! Glad he got it done after coming so close yesterday. Let the grade speculation begin....
Bravo! Glad he got it done after coming so close yesterday. Let the grade speculation begin....
In reply to UKC News: FB sources tell me he reckoned hard F9a+ for Overshadow, and 8c for the Bat Route (onsight). Good to see some focus on UK sport, looking forward to find out what else he's gonna do....
In reply to Brendan: to quote "ondra ticks overshadow at last. 7 days effort but made it look easy and I expect a new grade of E2 5c will follow".
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