This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous weeks activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (216) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=457895
It's been fun doing the stats for the last few weeks, but next week the job returns to Andy.
AJM – YYFY! Well done on the 7a flash and the 6c+ onsight.
Sankey - Well done on the half marathon. Enjoy the climbing.
Niels - Hope next week goes better.
Steve John B - Bad luck with the knees. Hope you can return back to training soon.
Daniel Heath - Not much climbing, but it looks like you had a strenuous week.
JSA - Hopefully the fitness will come quickly
Sonya Mc - Sounds like you could switch the indoor 6b project for the one in the local quarry. Good result nailing the problems on your homeboard too.
IanRUK - Another awesome result particularly so in the heat. Well done.
Murd - Great that you got 4 sessions in. Hope you feel better this week.
Leon - It looks like the 4x4s are working well. Out of curiosity, how long are you resting between the two sets?
Jeriqo - Good Luck with the new job.
Tonyb -
Thickhead - Solid week.
Grubes - Make sure you keep safe whilst pushing it. Perhaps it’s a good time to seek out well protected E1s.
Richardh – Sounds like a tough crux for a 7b+
Mark Torrance - Great result in the marathon even if it was dull running on roads!
Mattrm - Sounds like an unpleasant week. It’s great that you were accepted on the Conville course though.
Kevster - Seems like a good strategy, a week rest followed by hard sport. I’m sure you’ll be avin’ those hard sport lines.
LiamM - Sounds like you’ll be busy at the end of the month.
Petestack - That really puts the WHW in perspective.
Biscuit - It’s great that you’ve identified a weakness and it sounds like you’re already combating it.
Seankenny - Are you developing the greater strength and the cool head with a specific goal in mind?
Andy - Sounds like you were quite lucky in the end.
Eagle River - Have a great stag party and wedding.
Chris05 - Your bouldering goals are really similar to mine. It’ll be great to follow your progress and hopefully find some inspiration there.
The New NickB - That’s really bad luck.
Fimm - Tough session on Monday.
Jimmy Kay - Well done for ticking a long standing nemesis.
Catt - That’s a lot of antagonist training you’ve done. I hope it works and keeps the injuries at bay.
Stone_Donkey - It’s a hard job mixing work and climbing.
Curious Yellow - I hope the rest has left you strong.
Humperdink - Congratulations on a very fast 10 km.
Goonie - I bet you’ll feel psyched after a weeks rest.
Plexiglass Nick - Raindogs Autumn 2011. Watch this space.
Miles - “mainly just climbing overhanging stuff” could mean so many things.
New Poster
Elwood - Welcome to UKC Fitclub. Of course you can post however you like, but it would be great to include some longer term aims in next post. For example is there a dream route that you’d like to climb or a particular grade you’d like to climb at. Anyway, hope you get on the sandstone soon and climb some great routes.
Absentees
Karen87
Viking
Shauna
Andy Farnell
Nexonen
Ayuplas
Agibb
Mike
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous weeks activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (216) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=457895
It's been fun doing the stats for the last few weeks, but next week the job returns to Andy.
AJM – YYFY! Well done on the 7a flash and the 6c+ onsight.
Sankey - Well done on the half marathon. Enjoy the climbing.
Niels - Hope next week goes better.
Steve John B - Bad luck with the knees. Hope you can return back to training soon.
Daniel Heath - Not much climbing, but it looks like you had a strenuous week.
JSA - Hopefully the fitness will come quickly
Sonya Mc - Sounds like you could switch the indoor 6b project for the one in the local quarry. Good result nailing the problems on your homeboard too.
IanRUK - Another awesome result particularly so in the heat. Well done.
Murd - Great that you got 4 sessions in. Hope you feel better this week.
Leon - It looks like the 4x4s are working well. Out of curiosity, how long are you resting between the two sets?
Jeriqo - Good Luck with the new job.
Tonyb -
Thickhead - Solid week.
Grubes - Make sure you keep safe whilst pushing it. Perhaps it’s a good time to seek out well protected E1s.
Richardh – Sounds like a tough crux for a 7b+
Mark Torrance - Great result in the marathon even if it was dull running on roads!
Mattrm - Sounds like an unpleasant week. It’s great that you were accepted on the Conville course though.
Kevster - Seems like a good strategy, a week rest followed by hard sport. I’m sure you’ll be avin’ those hard sport lines.
LiamM - Sounds like you’ll be busy at the end of the month.
Petestack - That really puts the WHW in perspective.
Biscuit - It’s great that you’ve identified a weakness and it sounds like you’re already combating it.
Seankenny - Are you developing the greater strength and the cool head with a specific goal in mind?
Andy - Sounds like you were quite lucky in the end.
Eagle River - Have a great stag party and wedding.
Chris05 - Your bouldering goals are really similar to mine. It’ll be great to follow your progress and hopefully find some inspiration there.
The New NickB - That’s really bad luck.
Fimm - Tough session on Monday.
Jimmy Kay - Well done for ticking a long standing nemesis.
Catt - That’s a lot of antagonist training you’ve done. I hope it works and keeps the injuries at bay.
Stone_Donkey - It’s a hard job mixing work and climbing.
Curious Yellow - I hope the rest has left you strong.
Humperdink - Congratulations on a very fast 10 km.
Goonie - I bet you’ll feel psyched after a weeks rest.
Plexiglass Nick - Raindogs Autumn 2011. Watch this space.
Miles - “mainly just climbing overhanging stuff” could mean so many things.
New Poster
Elwood - Welcome to UKC Fitclub. Of course you can post however you like, but it would be great to include some longer term aims in next post. For example is there a dream route that you’d like to climb or a particular grade you’d like to climb at. Anyway, hope you get on the sandstone soon and climb some great routes.
Absentees
Karen87
Viking
Shauna
Andy Farnell
Nexonen
Ayuplas
Agibb
Mike
In reply to TonyB: Haha, it's my standard term for spending a session doing easyish stuff on the competition wall :P
Another slow week, just over two weeks til exams are finished thankfully.
Thursday: Bouldering. Bit of a crap session, I'm not a fan of the problems in the bouldering room at the moment, they were all too easy, too hard or too awkward for what I wanted (was planning to repeat easy problems for some quick strength gains).
Friday: Started with a bit of bouldering before doing some ARCing (which lasted 25 minutes, a 5 minute improvement on last week). That said, I was hungover last time. The limiting factor at the moment is my skin rather than my endurance though, so hopefully it'll toughen up a bit and if not I'll find something with some smaller holds.
Another slow week, just over two weeks til exams are finished thankfully.
Thursday: Bouldering. Bit of a crap session, I'm not a fan of the problems in the bouldering room at the moment, they were all too easy, too hard or too awkward for what I wanted (was planning to repeat easy problems for some quick strength gains).
Friday: Started with a bit of bouldering before doing some ARCing (which lasted 25 minutes, a 5 minute improvement on last week). That said, I was hungover last time. The limiting factor at the moment is my skin rather than my endurance though, so hopefully it'll toughen up a bit and if not I'll find something with some smaller holds.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again Tony
Mixed bag this week, started well, I had put a problem up at home which I figured would take 6 months to get anywhere near but on Monday I linked four of the 5 moves, pleasant surprise. No idea what grade they are maybe 7a+? Thursday was a reasonable trip to the wall, managed to tick the 6c which had me stretching the rope the last two weeks and some other stuff close to my limit. Then Fri, sat and Sunday sessions were a complete wash out, could not do the first move of the home problem, and generally pants all round. Trying not to beat my up about it figuring that some days are better than others, plus 5 days is probably a bit much, still a tad frustrating. Nothing outside this week, hoping for some dry weather in the Wye or the peak mid week.
Mon: Home Bouldering, 2hr 30
Tue: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thur: Wall, 3hr 20
Fri: Home Bouldering, 60m
Sat: Home Bouldering, 60m
Sun: Home Bouldering, 60m
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
Thanks again Tony
Mixed bag this week, started well, I had put a problem up at home which I figured would take 6 months to get anywhere near but on Monday I linked four of the 5 moves, pleasant surprise. No idea what grade they are maybe 7a+? Thursday was a reasonable trip to the wall, managed to tick the 6c which had me stretching the rope the last two weeks and some other stuff close to my limit. Then Fri, sat and Sunday sessions were a complete wash out, could not do the first move of the home problem, and generally pants all round. Trying not to beat my up about it figuring that some days are better than others, plus 5 days is probably a bit much, still a tad frustrating. Nothing outside this week, hoping for some dry weather in the Wye or the peak mid week.
Mon: Home Bouldering, 2hr 30
Tue: Rest
Weds: Rest
Thur: Wall, 3hr 20
Fri: Home Bouldering, 60m
Sat: Home Bouldering, 60m
Sun: Home Bouldering, 60m
STG: Regular on sites of F6b’s and F6c’s
MTG: F7a indoor…get out side more
LTG: E #
In reply to TonyB:
Not a great week, recovering from the dental abscess, on antibiotics and struggled with sleep pattern so feeling constantly knackered.
Just did an easy hilly 10 miler on Thursday night and started a parkrun on Saturday morning, but felt terrible, dropped out because I couldn't breath properly at a pace that should be easy for me. Just a consequence of the antibiotics and lack of sleep I think.
Decided to do the Chester Marathon in October, need to step things up to achieve the time I want, so need to try and get myself straight and return to a better training regime, including getting more sleep and eating better.
Not a great week, recovering from the dental abscess, on antibiotics and struggled with sleep pattern so feeling constantly knackered.
Just did an easy hilly 10 miler on Thursday night and started a parkrun on Saturday morning, but felt terrible, dropped out because I couldn't breath properly at a pace that should be easy for me. Just a consequence of the antibiotics and lack of sleep I think.
Decided to do the Chester Marathon in October, need to step things up to achieve the time I want, so need to try and get myself straight and return to a better training regime, including getting more sleep and eating better.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony. Just rebuilding back to getting something a bit more structured done.
M: 8m run - first time i've felt light on my feet since London.
T: nowt
W: steady 5 miler on the Newcastle quayside.
T: 13m each way bike to work and back.
F: nowt
S: nowt
S: 38m bike with new cycling club. Nice and easy, averaged 16mph.
M: 8m run - first time i've felt light on my feet since London.
T: nowt
W: steady 5 miler on the Newcastle quayside.
T: 13m each way bike to work and back.
F: nowt
S: nowt
S: 38m bike with new cycling club. Nice and easy, averaged 16mph.
In reply to TonyB:
M-Bouldering, including lots of close arm press ups
T-
W-Beastmaker:
6x2 pull ups on small crimps
5x4 slow pull ups on large holds with weight
6x10s lock off on small crimps
lots of wide arm press ups
T-Injured! a lot of pain in the shoulder when lifting my left arm
F-Rest
S-Running 6 x 400m sprints. Haven't done a hard interval session in ages so that was nice
S-Rest
Bit gutted about my shoulder. I guess I went a bit eager with the training, especially press ups. Ah well, it's exam season so possible the best time to not be climbing.
I think I'm just going to wait till it feels a bit better, then see if I can ease into using it again.
Cheers,
Dan
M-Bouldering, including lots of close arm press ups
T-
W-Beastmaker:
6x2 pull ups on small crimps
5x4 slow pull ups on large holds with weight
6x10s lock off on small crimps
lots of wide arm press ups
T-Injured! a lot of pain in the shoulder when lifting my left arm
F-Rest
S-Running 6 x 400m sprints. Haven't done a hard interval session in ages so that was nice
S-Rest
Bit gutted about my shoulder. I guess I went a bit eager with the training, especially press ups. Ah well, it's exam season so possible the best time to not be climbing.
I think I'm just going to wait till it feels a bit better, then see if I can ease into using it again.
Cheers,
Dan
In reply to TonyB: A variety of climbing. Think that the winter has improved my bouldering, but need to up the stamina for the summer trad
M: Bell Hagg bouldering (Good session, added some new problems)
T:
W: Shining Cliff - first trad lead of year, a VS with no fuss.
T: Works : Most of yellow and pink circuit (Font 5+)
F:
S: Pleasely Vale (Two new steep and fingery V2's - could not complete the long traverse after though (approx F6b)
S: Works : Most of green and pink circuit (Font 3-6a)
STG: Trad week in Snowdonia - lead HVS (week after this)
MTG: Trip to Ecrins (Meije Traverse + Arete Costa Rouge) - July 2nd onwards
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c) + Lead E1 again - Year end
M: Bell Hagg bouldering (Good session, added some new problems)
T:
W: Shining Cliff - first trad lead of year, a VS with no fuss.
T: Works : Most of yellow and pink circuit (Font 5+)
F:
S: Pleasely Vale (Two new steep and fingery V2's - could not complete the long traverse after though (approx F6b)
S: Works : Most of green and pink circuit (Font 3-6a)
STG: Trad week in Snowdonia - lead HVS (week after this)
MTG: Trip to Ecrins (Meije Traverse + Arete Costa Rouge) - July 2nd onwards
LTG: PB sport climb (os 6b+ / RP 6c) + Lead E1 again - Year end
In reply to TonyB: Thanks, the weather has been wet all week so no chance to get back to the quarry unfortunately. However, I did get my indoor 6b (atlast!) The move just needed momentum and committment. Took a fall on the crux, then led it cleanly the 2nd go. So that's 6 attempts all in all to get the damn thing and I'm never gonna climb it again!
Managed to lose 0.9kg this week. That's me lost pretty much 1/2 stone now
Mon - Wall. Warmed up and then jumped on my 6b, getting it on 2nd go. Tried a 6b+ on toprope but only got about half way up before continuously falling, too tired!
Tue - Ran 7.3miles undulating off road with a couple of miles of
onroad, average pace 9mins 30secs.
Mile 1 = 10mins 3secs
Mile 2 = 9mins 51secs
Mile 3 = 9mins 50secs
Mile 4 = 9mins 2secs
Mile 5 = 9mins 11secs
Mile 6 = 9mins 1sec
Mile 7 = 9mins 32secs
Wed - Did 1/2 hour of yoga. Wall in the evening. Tried that 6b+ on toprope again, got past my high point, fell off at a higher crux, then got utterly stumped at the 2nd last move Just couldn't figure it at all. I would have to do a serious egyptian to get the move (or dyno off a crimp onto a crimp!) and I just don't have that in me. Frustrating. Tried a different 6b+ on toprope and got to the top of this one. Took 3 rests, 2 to figure out a couple of moves and then at the last move cos I was too pumped. Reckon I can give it another go on toprope then try to lead it.
Thurs - Did some intervals. Ran a mile to warm up in 9mins 5secs. Then did 2 sets of running 200m with a 30sec walk in between each 200m, walking for 3mins inbetween each set. First time I've done intervals in a LONG time and found it really hard! Ranging from 45secs to 53secs for each 200m, not setting any records but hard for this arthritic codger! Ran a mile at 10min pace home, to cool down.
Fri - Spent an hour on the woody. Did a few laps of a XL juggy circuit on the 45 degree wall. Then did a juggy prob on the 45 degree. Then did a few laps of a mini jug traverse across the 30 degree and 45 degree wall. Then the route on the 45degree wall that I nailed last week. Then worked on the route that my daughter set for me on the 30degree wall, finally getting it. Set a V3 to work on, on the 30 degree wall.
Sat - Went for a 4.5hr hillwalk, bagging a Munro and a Corbett. Short day, but felt quite knackered, struggling to stay awake on drive home!
Sun - 3mile run, best time in ages! Average pace, 8mins 16secs.
Mile 1 = 8mins 28secs
Mile 2 = 7mins 55secs
Mile 3 = 8mins 23secs.
Managed to lose 0.9kg this week. That's me lost pretty much 1/2 stone now
Mon - Wall. Warmed up and then jumped on my 6b, getting it on 2nd go. Tried a 6b+ on toprope but only got about half way up before continuously falling, too tired!
Tue - Ran 7.3miles undulating off road with a couple of miles of
onroad, average pace 9mins 30secs.
Mile 1 = 10mins 3secs
Mile 2 = 9mins 51secs
Mile 3 = 9mins 50secs
Mile 4 = 9mins 2secs
Mile 5 = 9mins 11secs
Mile 6 = 9mins 1sec
Mile 7 = 9mins 32secs
Wed - Did 1/2 hour of yoga. Wall in the evening. Tried that 6b+ on toprope again, got past my high point, fell off at a higher crux, then got utterly stumped at the 2nd last move Just couldn't figure it at all. I would have to do a serious egyptian to get the move (or dyno off a crimp onto a crimp!) and I just don't have that in me. Frustrating. Tried a different 6b+ on toprope and got to the top of this one. Took 3 rests, 2 to figure out a couple of moves and then at the last move cos I was too pumped. Reckon I can give it another go on toprope then try to lead it.
Thurs - Did some intervals. Ran a mile to warm up in 9mins 5secs. Then did 2 sets of running 200m with a 30sec walk in between each 200m, walking for 3mins inbetween each set. First time I've done intervals in a LONG time and found it really hard! Ranging from 45secs to 53secs for each 200m, not setting any records but hard for this arthritic codger! Ran a mile at 10min pace home, to cool down.
Fri - Spent an hour on the woody. Did a few laps of a XL juggy circuit on the 45 degree wall. Then did a juggy prob on the 45 degree. Then did a few laps of a mini jug traverse across the 30 degree and 45 degree wall. Then the route on the 45degree wall that I nailed last week. Then worked on the route that my daughter set for me on the 30degree wall, finally getting it. Set a V3 to work on, on the 30 degree wall.
Sat - Went for a 4.5hr hillwalk, bagging a Munro and a Corbett. Short day, but felt quite knackered, struggling to stay awake on drive home!
Sun - 3mile run, best time in ages! Average pace, 8mins 16secs.
Mile 1 = 8mins 28secs
Mile 2 = 7mins 55secs
Mile 3 = 8mins 23secs.
In reply to TonyB:
Apologies for missing a week out, very busy as started back at Go Ape this season...
Previous week - Not much due to work, nothing great to note
This week - Spent six days in Dorset on a family (not climbers) holiday. So mostly did the tourist trail and some gentle walks. Visited Dancing Ledge and set up my first top rope and abseil rig, other than that no climbing related news.
Back on the training this coming week!
Apologies for missing a week out, very busy as started back at Go Ape this season...
Previous week - Not much due to work, nothing great to note
This week - Spent six days in Dorset on a family (not climbers) holiday. So mostly did the tourist trail and some gentle walks. Visited Dancing Ledge and set up my first top rope and abseil rig, other than that no climbing related news.
Back on the training this coming week!
Poor week this week, work busy at the moment and had to drag myself out for a 4 miler on wednesday and then nothing over the weeked as away at a wedding, but the ceilidh was a form of exercise!
In reply to TonyB: Thanks for the welcome Tony
Long term aims: Climb the classic route up the old man of stoer. It will be along time until I can achieve this and there are a number of things I want to achieve in the mean time.
Medium term - Send 6c indoors and outdoors. Current highest grade is 6a+/6a respectivly.
Return to font and send Le Toit du Cul du Chien (font 7a) and a nuber of routes a 95.2.
Short/medium term - Regularly send font 6b and flash font 6a.
Training aims - To reach 20 overhand chin-up without rest (currently 12-13
Improve active flexibility and match left side strength to right
Past week - Still no access to climbing wall or crag.
Monday - 5km, supersets and stretches
Tuesday - Stretches. Wrist/forearm exersises and chin-ups
Wednesday - Stretches
Thursday - 5km run & Stretches
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - 5km run & Stretches
Sunday - Nothing
Next week - Continue CV and stretches. Include more flexibility and strength work.
Long term aims: Climb the classic route up the old man of stoer. It will be along time until I can achieve this and there are a number of things I want to achieve in the mean time.
Medium term - Send 6c indoors and outdoors. Current highest grade is 6a+/6a respectivly.
Return to font and send Le Toit du Cul du Chien (font 7a) and a nuber of routes a 95.2.
Short/medium term - Regularly send font 6b and flash font 6a.
Training aims - To reach 20 overhand chin-up without rest (currently 12-13
Improve active flexibility and match left side strength to right
Past week - Still no access to climbing wall or crag.
Monday - 5km, supersets and stretches
Tuesday - Stretches. Wrist/forearm exersises and chin-ups
Wednesday - Stretches
Thursday - 5km run & Stretches
Friday - Nothing
Saturday - 5km run & Stretches
Sunday - Nothing
Next week - Continue CV and stretches. Include more flexibility and strength work.
In reply to TonyB:
Doesn't it just! The number of times during that hot Fling I was thinking 'can I face this again in just a few weeks' time?', but I've got two decent finishes from two starts in the big one, know I can do it and it should be more about the time (my sole reason for another attempt) than covering the ground. So give me a cool, overcast day with maybe a hint of drizzle and you might see the race of my life, but change that to cloudless, blue sky and relentless heat and I'll probably struggle...
M: [43.0] Rest
T: [49.5] Dam by Penstock, 11.9 miles/2,200 ft
W: [50.3] Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft
T: [51.3] Creach Bheinn, 8.9 miles/3,100 ft
F: [47.6] School walk Devil's Staircase/Beinn Bheag (mileage doesn't count!) + full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [42.2] Rest (headachy and quite tired)
S: [61.0] Glencoe Ski Centre to Bridge of Orchy and back, 21.8 miles/2,800 ft + single big lap, 2.9 miles
Pleased with today's stint on the WHW (under 3½ hours to average fairly comfortable 9:37 miling, which is 3 mins/mile faster than sub-20 race pace), but still had to go back out round the village for the psychological boost of another 60-mile week!
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> Petestack - That really puts the WHW in perspective.
Doesn't it just! The number of times during that hot Fling I was thinking 'can I face this again in just a few weeks' time?', but I've got two decent finishes from two starts in the big one, know I can do it and it should be more about the time (my sole reason for another attempt) than covering the ground. So give me a cool, overcast day with maybe a hint of drizzle and you might see the race of my life, but change that to cloudless, blue sky and relentless heat and I'll probably struggle...
M: [43.0] Rest
T: [49.5] Dam by Penstock, 11.9 miles/2,200 ft
W: [50.3] Lairigmor, 9.9 miles/1,700 ft
T: [51.3] Creach Bheinn, 8.9 miles/3,100 ft
F: [47.6] School walk Devil's Staircase/Beinn Bheag (mileage doesn't count!) + full Grey Mare's, 5.4 miles/1,400 ft
S: [42.2] Rest (headachy and quite tired)
S: [61.0] Glencoe Ski Centre to Bridge of Orchy and back, 21.8 miles/2,800 ft + single big lap, 2.9 miles
Pleased with today's stint on the WHW (under 3½ hours to average fairly comfortable 9:37 miling, which is 3 mins/mile faster than sub-20 race pace), but still had to go back out round the village for the psychological boost of another 60-mile week!
Current Goals:
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony.
M:
T: wall as no car. did full easy circuits x 3 then apathy.
W:
Th: kilnsey blown out by lack of partners, everyone busy.
F: Kilnsey, Slabculture, took "the" lob off the top near the belay, biggest air miles I've taken for a few years, at least it can't get any worse, strangely motivating!
S:
Sun: Kilnsey, very busy, couldn't get on slabculture, or Jumping, too wet for a trip to Dib. Cleaned up Smooth Torquer, 7a+, just because there was no-one on the bloomin thing. couple of laps on Frankie to get stamina in.
good week all in all. hope to get back to kilnsey next week in the week when less busy.
Cheers Tony.
M:
T: wall as no car. did full easy circuits x 3 then apathy.
W:
Th: kilnsey blown out by lack of partners, everyone busy.
F: Kilnsey, Slabculture, took "the" lob off the top near the belay, biggest air miles I've taken for a few years, at least it can't get any worse, strangely motivating!
S:
Sun: Kilnsey, very busy, couldn't get on slabculture, or Jumping, too wet for a trip to Dib. Cleaned up Smooth Torquer, 7a+, just because there was no-one on the bloomin thing. couple of laps on Frankie to get stamina in.
good week all in all. hope to get back to kilnsey next week in the week when less busy.
In reply to all:
OK, I'm going to get -90% in the popularity stakes here, but I've been wondering for a while, and am *trying* to phrase this tactfully. If this has been done before, sorry and point me at the thread.
I post on here to assist in self-motivation re: climbing, or when injured from climbing, and enjoy reading about others' climbing achievements, training, goals and successes, but I have zero interest in running achievements, hence me posting on a climbing forum.
I don't quite understand why there are so many running/fell-racing etc entries on UKC Fitclub, that seem to be running only, no climbing or even outdoor goals and no evidence of any climbing intent on a week to week basis. Injured climbers I can understand as a way to keep motivated in a down-period, but runners who just run and don't (appear to) climb?
Are there no runners forums? If not, could/would a runner be prepared to split off a UKC Runners Fitclub? Am I in a minority of one just not wanting to read it? Honestly I'd like to hear opinions, maybe I really have missed the point.
Shoot away!
OK, I'm going to get -90% in the popularity stakes here, but I've been wondering for a while, and am *trying* to phrase this tactfully. If this has been done before, sorry and point me at the thread.
I post on here to assist in self-motivation re: climbing, or when injured from climbing, and enjoy reading about others' climbing achievements, training, goals and successes, but I have zero interest in running achievements, hence me posting on a climbing forum.
I don't quite understand why there are so many running/fell-racing etc entries on UKC Fitclub, that seem to be running only, no climbing or even outdoor goals and no evidence of any climbing intent on a week to week basis. Injured climbers I can understand as a way to keep motivated in a down-period, but runners who just run and don't (appear to) climb?
Are there no runners forums? If not, could/would a runner be prepared to split off a UKC Runners Fitclub? Am I in a minority of one just not wanting to read it? Honestly I'd like to hear opinions, maybe I really have missed the point.
Shoot away!
In reply to TonyB:
M - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
W - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 2 miles road run, easy, flat
T -
F -
S - 2:15 off road run, steady. Woods, bluebells, no pressure, with friends.
S -
Relative lack of activity due to work rather than need for post-marathon recovery (though probably also served that purpose). I'm actually itching to get out. I'm thinking The Plan (train for a marathon early in the year then enjoy the resulting fitness) was a good one.
Next up: Duddon race at start of June, then Malvern LDWA thing over marathon distance, then possibly a small-field nearly-all-road half near Telford at start of July.
M - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
W - AM: 4.5 miles run road, easy, flat, PM: 2 miles road run, easy, flat
T -
F -
S - 2:15 off road run, steady. Woods, bluebells, no pressure, with friends.
S -
Relative lack of activity due to work rather than need for post-marathon recovery (though probably also served that purpose). I'm actually itching to get out. I'm thinking The Plan (train for a marathon early in the year then enjoy the resulting fitness) was a good one.
Next up: Duddon race at start of June, then Malvern LDWA thing over marathon distance, then possibly a small-field nearly-all-road half near Telford at start of July.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks Tony.
A poor week. Motivation low.
Seeing physio tomorrow to get a strengthening program sorted out.
M-S: shed all (apart from heel drops)
A poor week. Motivation low.
Seeing physio tomorrow to get a strengthening program sorted out.
M-S: shed all (apart from heel drops)
In reply to TonyB:
STG: none
MGT: none
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.6
Focus: Rest
Mon: Rest
Tue: Trad (max Severe). Bouldering (max V3).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Core Synergistics.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Sport (max 6b).
Tony, I rest 15 minutes between the two sets. In fact 15 minutes is my defacto rest time whether it's after a set of ARC, repeaters or 4x4.
Rest week this week. I never used to bother with them (I normally find laziness, work or holiday fits in plenty of rest weeks) but with having tennis elbow I figure I should do it properly.
Was hoping to make it more active rest than it turned out to be. I've just been drinking & eating crap this week.
Core Synergistics is from P90x fitness program. I pretty much spent the entire session learning the technique for each exercise so didn't get much in the way of a work out.
Next 3 weeks on endurance and technique.
STG: 2 * 30 mins ARC in a session.
MTG: At least 25 routes or 55 problems in a session.
STG: none
MGT: none
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(0), 10*e1(2)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.6
Focus: Rest
Mon: Rest
Tue: Trad (max Severe). Bouldering (max V3).
Wed: Rest.
Thu: Core Synergistics.
Fri: Rest.
Sat: Rest.
Sun: Sport (max 6b).
Tony, I rest 15 minutes between the two sets. In fact 15 minutes is my defacto rest time whether it's after a set of ARC, repeaters or 4x4.
Rest week this week. I never used to bother with them (I normally find laziness, work or holiday fits in plenty of rest weeks) but with having tennis elbow I figure I should do it properly.
Was hoping to make it more active rest than it turned out to be. I've just been drinking & eating crap this week.
Core Synergistics is from P90x fitness program. I pretty much spent the entire session learning the technique for each exercise so didn't get much in the way of a work out.
Next 3 weeks on endurance and technique.
STG: 2 * 30 mins ARC in a session.
MTG: At least 25 routes or 55 problems in a session.
In reply to richardh:
But you meet a massively better class of people on here than on running forums.
Personally, I quite like the mix of different activities here. I love climbing (though don't get to do it now as much as I used to or would like) but have never seen it as something to train for and definitely don't need any motivational input in that area. I do like hanging out with climbers, though.
> I don't quite understand why there are so many running/fell-racing etc entries on UKC Fitclub,
But you meet a massively better class of people on here than on running forums.
Personally, I quite like the mix of different activities here. I love climbing (though don't get to do it now as much as I used to or would like) but have never seen it as something to train for and definitely don't need any motivational input in that area. I do like hanging out with climbers, though.
In reply to TonyB:
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Cheers Tony,
All of this week I've been in Font - which was just as magical as the first time I visited.
It was a bit of a mixed trip, it all started well with a couple of warm-up days and a flash of a hard 6a - Moondance, which I was really happy with as it's a classic and a bit tricky/sequency. The third day started well with me getting on really well with a 6c at 95.2. I had one 1/2hr session on it and felt that i could rest a while, come back and nail it. But, on getting back on it, I tweaked my right forearm (again!) - it was pretty devasting.
The next couple of days were spent with my arm in a bucket of cold water, praying for it to heal! I then had another "warm-up"/"test the arm" day and ticked off some great easier problems without too much pain. I then progressively built up the grades over the next couple of days, ticking a 6a and a 6a+ within a couple of goes. All good but I was probably only at 80-90%. On the last day I decided to go all out and I got pretty close to my project Jet Set (7a) - had my fingers tickling the top yet again! Very frustrating (although it was about 28 degrees at 8pm!). I also got pretty close on 3 6c's, but no cigar.
All in all it was a great trip (did around 20-odd problems), and it's made me more determined to get back there and get my projects ticked. So an autumn trip is probably on the cards.
As for the goals - I'm going to rethink them a bit as I'm missing them by a narrow margin. I'm probably going to rest for a bit this week and grow some skin back.
STG: V6 outdoors (End of May 2011)
MTG: V7 indoors or outdoors (end of July 2011)
LTG: V8 outdoors (2011)
Cheers Tony,
All of this week I've been in Font - which was just as magical as the first time I visited.
It was a bit of a mixed trip, it all started well with a couple of warm-up days and a flash of a hard 6a - Moondance, which I was really happy with as it's a classic and a bit tricky/sequency. The third day started well with me getting on really well with a 6c at 95.2. I had one 1/2hr session on it and felt that i could rest a while, come back and nail it. But, on getting back on it, I tweaked my right forearm (again!) - it was pretty devasting.
The next couple of days were spent with my arm in a bucket of cold water, praying for it to heal! I then had another "warm-up"/"test the arm" day and ticked off some great easier problems without too much pain. I then progressively built up the grades over the next couple of days, ticking a 6a and a 6a+ within a couple of goes. All good but I was probably only at 80-90%. On the last day I decided to go all out and I got pretty close to my project Jet Set (7a) - had my fingers tickling the top yet again! Very frustrating (although it was about 28 degrees at 8pm!). I also got pretty close on 3 6c's, but no cigar.
All in all it was a great trip (did around 20-odd problems), and it's made me more determined to get back there and get my projects ticked. So an autumn trip is probably on the cards.
As for the goals - I'm going to rethink them a bit as I'm missing them by a narrow margin. I'm probably going to rest for a bit this week and grow some skin back.
In reply to richardh:
So just skip/skim the bits that don't interest you!
Think everyone here has climbed and many of us 'runners' would still like to be climbing more (can't do everything well at once, so sometimes need to be 'serial obsessives' to get the most out of life), but a separate Runners' Fit Club? Sorry, but sincerely hoping you're in a tiny minority there because even the suggestion of booting us out of this one kills much of the joy of this wonderfully varied thread for me!
> OK, I'm going to get -90% in the popularity stakes here, but I've been wondering for a while, and am *trying* to phrase this tactfully. If this has been done before, sorry and point me at the thread.
>
> I post on here to assist in self-motivation re: climbing, or when injured from climbing, and enjoy reading about others' climbing achievements, training, goals and successes, but I have zero interest in running achievements, hence me posting on a climbing forum.
>
> I don't quite understand why there are so many running/fell-racing etc entries on UKC Fitclub, that seem to be running only, no climbing or even outdoor goals and no evidence of any climbing intent on a week to week basis. Injured climbers I can understand as a way to keep motivated in a down-period, but runners who just run and don't (appear to) climb?
>
> Are there no runners forums? If not, could/would a runner be prepared to split off a UKC Runners Fitclub? Am I in a minority of one just not wanting to read it? Honestly I'd like to hear opinions, maybe I really have missed the point.
>
> Shoot away!
>
> I post on here to assist in self-motivation re: climbing, or when injured from climbing, and enjoy reading about others' climbing achievements, training, goals and successes, but I have zero interest in running achievements, hence me posting on a climbing forum.
>
> I don't quite understand why there are so many running/fell-racing etc entries on UKC Fitclub, that seem to be running only, no climbing or even outdoor goals and no evidence of any climbing intent on a week to week basis. Injured climbers I can understand as a way to keep motivated in a down-period, but runners who just run and don't (appear to) climb?
>
> Are there no runners forums? If not, could/would a runner be prepared to split off a UKC Runners Fitclub? Am I in a minority of one just not wanting to read it? Honestly I'd like to hear opinions, maybe I really have missed the point.
>
> Shoot away!
So just skip/skim the bits that don't interest you!
Think everyone here has climbed and many of us 'runners' would still like to be climbing more (can't do everything well at once, so sometimes need to be 'serial obsessives' to get the most out of life), but a separate Runners' Fit Club? Sorry, but sincerely hoping you're in a tiny minority there because even the suggestion of booting us out of this one kills much of the joy of this wonderfully varied thread for me!
In reply to richardh:
>.......maybe I really have missed the point.
Err, yes.
For me Fitclub is a place where people strive to improve in the sport that they do. They make aims, devise a training schedule, train hard and perform better as a result. We all do this, and whether we send our dream route or run a PB in a race it doesn't matter. The runners are some of those on this forum who have the clearest aims, have a plan, train for the most days per week and achieve amazing performances. I find this inspiring. I'm not sure how anyone cannot. So as long as the runners keep posting I'll keep reading. And as long as the keep making such great performances, I'll continue to be inspired.
On a slightly different note. The thought keeps creeping up in the back of my mind that I'd like to run a marathon. I don't think it's going to happen soon, because I want to focus exclusively on climbing, but if and when I do I know exactly where to get advice. Surely this kind of diversity is beneficial to us all.
>.......maybe I really have missed the point.
Err, yes.
For me Fitclub is a place where people strive to improve in the sport that they do. They make aims, devise a training schedule, train hard and perform better as a result. We all do this, and whether we send our dream route or run a PB in a race it doesn't matter. The runners are some of those on this forum who have the clearest aims, have a plan, train for the most days per week and achieve amazing performances. I find this inspiring. I'm not sure how anyone cannot. So as long as the runners keep posting I'll keep reading. And as long as the keep making such great performances, I'll continue to be inspired.
On a slightly different note. The thought keeps creeping up in the back of my mind that I'd like to run a marathon. I don't think it's going to happen soon, because I want to focus exclusively on climbing, but if and when I do I know exactly where to get advice. Surely this kind of diversity is beneficial to us all.
In reply to petestack:
Actually, this I think is exactly the right kind of response.
Without wanting to be too dewey eyed about it, this thread represents a community of people who over quite a long period of time have made themselves quite vulnerable in front of each other. I know more about the workings of various people's bowels, for example, than I think is really quite healthy.
There might be an argument, if you were starting from scratch, for separating out different activities (though I'm not sure it would be a good argument). However, it's way too late for that now. We're an existing group with an existing dynamic and it's potentially quite hurtful (I can't think of a less fluffy word that means that same thing) to try and change that.
> because even the suggestion of booting us out of this one kills much of the joy of this wonderfully varied thread for me!
Actually, this I think is exactly the right kind of response.
Without wanting to be too dewey eyed about it, this thread represents a community of people who over quite a long period of time have made themselves quite vulnerable in front of each other. I know more about the workings of various people's bowels, for example, than I think is really quite healthy.
There might be an argument, if you were starting from scratch, for separating out different activities (though I'm not sure it would be a good argument). However, it's way too late for that now. We're an existing group with an existing dynamic and it's potentially quite hurtful (I can't think of a less fluffy word that means that same thing) to try and change that.
In reply to TonyB:
Serial obsessives, see!
Absolutely! With many cross-sport discussions here (eg weight/diet questions, will running/cycling help my climbing? etc.) springing to mind.
Have also just dredged up some of my earliest Fit Club goals (some now achieved, some temporarily removed to keep the current list 'current', but *all* real with some hopefully going back on after this summer of ultra-running)...
'Lead more HVS/E1 (+ maybe E2 5c on slabs *sometime*); Grade V (specifically Point Five) this winter [yes, I got that one!]; some more stuff abroad like Snake Dike, Mount Kenya and maybe the Cassin Route on the Badile before I get too old!'
> On a slightly different note. The thought keeps creeping up in the back of my mind that I'd like to run a marathon. I don't think it's going to happen soon, because I want to focus exclusively on climbing
Serial obsessives, see!
> but if and when I do I know exactly where to get advice. Surely this kind of diversity is beneficial to us all.
Absolutely! With many cross-sport discussions here (eg weight/diet questions, will running/cycling help my climbing? etc.) springing to mind.
Have also just dredged up some of my earliest Fit Club goals (some now achieved, some temporarily removed to keep the current list 'current', but *all* real with some hopefully going back on after this summer of ultra-running)...
'Lead more HVS/E1 (+ maybe E2 5c on slabs *sometime*); Grade V (specifically Point Five) this winter [yes, I got that one!]; some more stuff abroad like Snake Dike, Mount Kenya and maybe the Cassin Route on the Badile before I get too old!'
In reply to TonyB:
Tony, thanks for putting the time in again. As for specific goals, I've a few but kind of irrelevant atm...
M: Good weights session including dumbell curls and dumbell shoulder press
T: Nothing
W: Bouldering - did a V4 second go, worked a couple of V5s. Core stuff. Shoulder a bit sore after.
T: Disaster - arm injured!
F: Nothing.
Sat/Sun: On a course.
Terrible week. I have injured my arm somehow - I actually can't lift my right arm above about shoulder level, as there's a very strong pain in my upper arm and it's very weak. At first I thought it was some kind of muscle sprain and it would go away quickly, but four days later it's still just as bad. Doctor's appointment tomorrow.
I'm really worried this could mean missing out the best of the climbing season this summer, but still hoping it will heal quickly. Will report back next week.
On the plus side, I got a new job! This will involve some travel, which is great, even if it buggers up my training
Tony, thanks for putting the time in again. As for specific goals, I've a few but kind of irrelevant atm...
M: Good weights session including dumbell curls and dumbell shoulder press
T: Nothing
W: Bouldering - did a V4 second go, worked a couple of V5s. Core stuff. Shoulder a bit sore after.
T: Disaster - arm injured!
F: Nothing.
Sat/Sun: On a course.
Terrible week. I have injured my arm somehow - I actually can't lift my right arm above about shoulder level, as there's a very strong pain in my upper arm and it's very weak. At first I thought it was some kind of muscle sprain and it would go away quickly, but four days later it's still just as bad. Doctor's appointment tomorrow.
I'm really worried this could mean missing out the best of the climbing season this summer, but still hoping it will heal quickly. Will report back next week.
On the plus side, I got a new job! This will involve some travel, which is great, even if it buggers up my training
In reply to TonyB:
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lb
M - Rest
T - Bouldering
W - Rest
T - Bouldering
F - Rest
S - Short walk up Cnicht
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
Quite a good week all in. Got a lot of bouldering at Ogmore as the tides were right. The weekend was supposed to involve a lot of scrambling, but my wife was ill so we just about managed to get up Cnicht before bailing for the day. My weight has bumped back up to normal. Sadly I'm away the next good tide week, so that's it for bouldering for the next few weeks. However I should get a decent bit of training in when I'm away. If I'm lucky there will be a pool at the hotel. Been spending a lot of time thinking and writing about training, future goals. Most of it boils down to keeping a good 'base' fitness and climbing level, so I can focus in on specific goals.
My bruised heel is still sore over two weeks since I bruised it. All swelling and colour has gone, but it's still slightly sore. But as I have to walk to get around, I guess it's going to be slow to heal. Not sure it's a good idea to run on it, but I need to get back to doing some running soon.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (6/10 leads), 12st 3lbs weight
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 3/10 leads), 12st
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 10lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 5lb
M - Rest
T - Bouldering
W - Rest
T - Bouldering
F - Rest
S - Short walk up Cnicht
S - 15 mins stretches and exercise
Quite a good week all in. Got a lot of bouldering at Ogmore as the tides were right. The weekend was supposed to involve a lot of scrambling, but my wife was ill so we just about managed to get up Cnicht before bailing for the day. My weight has bumped back up to normal. Sadly I'm away the next good tide week, so that's it for bouldering for the next few weeks. However I should get a decent bit of training in when I'm away. If I'm lucky there will be a pool at the hotel. Been spending a lot of time thinking and writing about training, future goals. Most of it boils down to keeping a good 'base' fitness and climbing level, so I can focus in on specific goals.
My bruised heel is still sore over two weeks since I bruised it. All swelling and colour has gone, but it's still slightly sore. But as I have to walk to get around, I guess it's going to be slow to heal. Not sure it's a good idea to run on it, but I need to get back to doing some running soon.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, and thanks for doing the stats again.
Mad hectic week this week. Managed a good wall session with plexiglass, Curious and catt, got 6 V4s ticked which is probably a new record for a session. No suitable (possible) V5s though.
Managed some weights some point I think too. Then flew to Toronto Friday so spent fri/sat being slothful and over eating. Today went to a wall and had a reasonable routes session to about 6bplus or so.
In reply to richardh:
I tend to skim a lot of the running posts because I don't really understand (in terms of the levels of difficulty of different bits of training and so on) which makes me feel a bit useless when it comes to writing the stats - I only tend to feel I can say something useful if there's a plain English comment I can work with!
I don't think anyone really owns this thread to the extent we can control who inputs - even people like Tony, biscuit and myself just babysit it really. It would be a shame if you left because of it, your posts are ones I tend to read because we have vaguely similar sorts of goals albeit in different places, but if you do find the running posts too much I think the equivalent Power Club thread on UKB has fewer non climbing posters.
In reply to mattrm:
Is there any info floating about about ogmore bouldering? Not too far from me, but not something I know anything about...!
> AJM – YYFY! Well done on the 7a flash and the 6c+ onsight.
Cheers Tony, and thanks for doing the stats again.
Mad hectic week this week. Managed a good wall session with plexiglass, Curious and catt, got 6 V4s ticked which is probably a new record for a session. No suitable (possible) V5s though.
Managed some weights some point I think too. Then flew to Toronto Friday so spent fri/sat being slothful and over eating. Today went to a wall and had a reasonable routes session to about 6bplus or so.
In reply to richardh:
I tend to skim a lot of the running posts because I don't really understand (in terms of the levels of difficulty of different bits of training and so on) which makes me feel a bit useless when it comes to writing the stats - I only tend to feel I can say something useful if there's a plain English comment I can work with!
I don't think anyone really owns this thread to the extent we can control who inputs - even people like Tony, biscuit and myself just babysit it really. It would be a shame if you left because of it, your posts are ones I tend to read because we have vaguely similar sorts of goals albeit in different places, but if you do find the running posts too much I think the equivalent Power Club thread on UKB has fewer non climbing posters.
In reply to mattrm:
Is there any info floating about about ogmore bouldering? Not too far from me, but not something I know anything about...!
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony, Its a good idea problem is I love bold climbing too much one day it will properly catch up with me I guess.
Had a bit of a rest week this week
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Dovestones Edge. Good walk in. I lead a HS and went to the pub. Was not in the mood but I enjoyed the walk
T: Rest
F: Rokt. Bouldered not overly inspired by some of the new problems. managed to flash an easy roof problem and am a god aweful roof climber. I then got on the ropes flashed 6b, spanked on the 6c, flashed the 6a. Tired at the end
S: Watched football in the pub. Rest day
S: Chee dale in the rain second 1xVS
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
I want to push myself on the trad this week hopefully the weather will improve. I will try get a holmfirth circuit in tonight.
> Grubes - Make sure you keep safe whilst pushing it. Perhaps it’s a good time to seek out well protected E1s.
Cheers Tony, Its a good idea problem is I love bold climbing too much one day it will properly catch up with me I guess.
Had a bit of a rest week this week
STG (end of June):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above.
RP 6b+ outside
Onsight E1/E2
1 font 6A+/6B Tick
Set up a beastmaker at home
M/LTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1/2 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
Last weeks goals:
at least two session climbing. Tick
M: Rest
T: Rest
W: Dovestones Edge. Good walk in. I lead a HS and went to the pub. Was not in the mood but I enjoyed the walk
T: Rest
F: Rokt. Bouldered not overly inspired by some of the new problems. managed to flash an easy roof problem and am a god aweful roof climber. I then got on the ropes flashed 6b, spanked on the 6c, flashed the 6a. Tired at the end
S: Watched football in the pub. Rest day
S: Chee dale in the rain second 1xVS
This weeks goals:
at least two session climbing.
I want to push myself on the trad this week hopefully the weather will improve. I will try get a holmfirth circuit in tonight.
In reply to AJM:
Personally I like that Fit Club is a broad church so to speak. I don't spend a lot of time reading the whole thread, I just skim through it. Some of the running stuff is really quite interesting from time to time as we have some really good runners on here. Like most things on UKC, I just ignore the boring stuff and focus in on what's interesting to me. If you don't like it, just ignore it. Works well for pretty much anything on the internet really.
Not much info out there really. The best info is at http://www.swbg.co.uk/ but there is also info at http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Bouldering . I live about 10 minutes away so I go there as often as possible. I just tend to wander around till I find stuff that looks good and just make things up. I've just worked out a nice traverse, probably about 10-15 meters long. As I'm a bit of a wuss and have no bouldering pad, I tend to do lots of eliminates & traverses, where I just try my hardest not to use the good hand and footholds. If you wanted to come down one day, I'm sure I could show you around. It's not really all that great however. Lots of it is very wave washed so it's mega smooth and slopey, but with utterly no friction. The bits with decent friction are really easy.
> In reply to richardh:
Personally I like that Fit Club is a broad church so to speak. I don't spend a lot of time reading the whole thread, I just skim through it. Some of the running stuff is really quite interesting from time to time as we have some really good runners on here. Like most things on UKC, I just ignore the boring stuff and focus in on what's interesting to me. If you don't like it, just ignore it. Works well for pretty much anything on the internet really.
> In reply to mattrm:
>
> Is there any info floating about about ogmore bouldering? Not too far from me, but not something I know anything about...!
>
> Is there any info floating about about ogmore bouldering? Not too far from me, but not something I know anything about...!
Not much info out there really. The best info is at http://www.swbg.co.uk/ but there is also info at http://www.southwalesmountaineering.org.uk/g_book/index.php/Bouldering . I live about 10 minutes away so I go there as often as possible. I just tend to wander around till I find stuff that looks good and just make things up. I've just worked out a nice traverse, probably about 10-15 meters long. As I'm a bit of a wuss and have no bouldering pad, I tend to do lots of eliminates & traverses, where I just try my hardest not to use the good hand and footholds. If you wanted to come down one day, I'm sure I could show you around. It's not really all that great however. Lots of it is very wave washed so it's mega smooth and slopey, but with utterly no friction. The bits with decent friction are really easy.
2011 goals in Finland
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 1/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 6/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 2 routes in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Not as much ticked as I would have liked this week. The 7A and 2x6Cs per week was based on a fantastic week when I was on top form and it's a fairly ambitious goal. I didn't achieve it last week but I'd like to keep as a goal for May. The weather is bad this week so it'll be quite a lot harder as I'll have fewer days to try on.
Mon - Social bouldering: nothing hard but easy stuff with a good friend is a good way to enjoy a couple of hours.
Wed - 2nd session (this year) on MC project. Not terribly convincing and failed to get to last years high point. Left early and went to Mellunmaki bouldering. My fingers hurt so much I couldn't climb much, but did a great 6C compression problem. Really nice climbing with awful footholds for the left and a fantastic hook for the right which I kept bouncing the hands up from. I got a slight dab from the mat. I don't think this helped me, but would have invalidated the ascent in the eyes of a purist.
Thur - Bouldering session at Haukilahti. I should have let the skin re-grow. My fingers were sore and I lacked the umpf to pull hard on them. I did a 6C slab eliminate, for the second 6C of the week. I tried a 7A that I'd come close to before, but couldn't get past my previous highpoint and realized that my sequence was making further progress difficult.
Sat - Back to Backnas and on the MC project. I felt much better about it. Again fingers felt sore, went to Hakunila but in no conditions to tick anything hard.
Sun - Quick trip to Mellunmaki and repeated the 6C (no dab this time). Tried a 6C+ but it felt really hard and I was on my own and would have liked a spotter.
I honestly don't know how many sessions I've had on MC. I could count them. Sometimes I think I'm close, sometimes I think I'm not. I also have no idea if it really is 7b+. I know that it's lost 2 holds, and I've been told by two people (who haven't managed to climb it) that it's harder than the 7c next to it but they don't know by how much. But regardless of this, I feel really committed to it. I'm going to try and document it here in detail, so I can sort out in my mind how I'm progressing with it.
Move 1. Start on two razor sharp crimps. Right foot to tiny crimp. Left foot pasted against the wall. Right hand up to an even sharper crimp.
Move 2. Left foot onto a smear. Right foot up high to good foot hold. Rock up onto right foot. Right hand on to tiny side pull.
Move 3. Hips into wall. Left foot onto edge far on the left. Left hand up to good crimp. CLIP.
Move 4. Left foot up to slightly higher more central edge. Right hand out to good crimp. HIGH CLIP. Need to pull out loads of slack for this. Take care not to Z-clip. If I fall off clipping I would hit the ground but I am really not very high up.
Move 5. Left hand to super sharp crimp with a knife edge sticking up from the middle. Nestle fingers into least painful position.
Move 6. Hard! Right foot to tiny tiny foot hold. Would have been much better before this broke. Shift weight above this with the left foot flagging and pasted against the wall. Big deadpoint with the left hand to a distant but sharp crimp.
Move 7. Hard! As I hit the crimp, minimize any swing. Paste the right foot against the wall. Lift the left foot high onto the crimp from move 3. Match on the sharp crimp.
Move 8. Delicate! Shift weight across to the left foot. Right foot on small edge. Left hand to slopey pinch. This is quite poor so has to be taken carefully and statically.
Move 9. Shift weight across to right foot. Right hand to sharp gaston.
Move 10. Balancey and Physical! Reposition left foot from inside edge to outside edge. Fall to the left and catch a second small gaston which thankfully isn't that sharp.
Move11. Lean into the left gaston and move the right hand to the poor slopey pinch from move 8. Move the hips slightly to the left. Lean off the gaston and clip.
Move 12. Crux?? Reposition the right foot on the sharp crimp with the knife blade. Cinch the toes and hook around the knife blade (all 5 mm of it). Lean out just enough to see the hidden foothold for the left. It's more like a slightly less steep smear so I can't find it by feel. This is really hard because I have to balance not falling off with placing the foot perfectly. Left foot on the hold, right foot on a high crimp. Initiate the move from the lower left foot, rock onto the high right foot and grab a sloper with the right hand. Keep the momentum and finish this move with a big inside flag. So right foot on the good high hold. Right hand on the sloper. Left foot flagging, Left hand doing nothing. CLIP. Chalk left hand.
Move 13. The route eases and I have not fallen off these moves this year. Right hand out to Sloper on right. Left foot onto small edge.
Move 14. Left hand matches on sloper.
Move 15. Right foot matches with left (outside edge). Left foot flagging onto small hold.
Move 16. Left hand out to sloper even further left. Left foot to poor hold slightly nearer. right foot to slightly higher hold. Right hand to good edge on slap above.
Move 17. Right foot high onto slab. Left hand onto tiny edge (can get just two fingers onto it.)
Move 18. Rock onto right foot on the slab. Left foot onto the sloper. Right hand over the slopey top.
Move 19. Match on the slopey top and clip the chain.
I'm 100% solid on the first 5 moves. I can't really do the sixth move from the rope but get it at about 60% of the time from the ground. Needs some umpf and a very modest power scream. On my last attempt on Saturday I linked from the ground to move 11. I can get the 12th move about 40% of time from the rope. I have never fallen off the moves 13-19 although I don't feel 100% solid on them. So in some sense I feel quite close. All I have to do is link 7 hard moves and not fall off some easier ones. I have linked moves 10-12. All I have to do is climb perfectly and remember to breathe. The biggest problem is that I can't work it easily as it is painfully sharp. So the plan for next week (if I get the chance to go on it): practice move 12. Try to improve from 40% to 70% success. Actually, the 40% is just a guess. Determine how frequently I can get it. Then no more work, just real RP attempts. It felt really good to write it out and get it straight in my mind.
7c pyramid -- (0/1 7c, 1/2 7b+, 1/4 7b, 5/8 7a+)
Possible candidates
7c - Purple Haze
7b+ - Molotovin Cocktail
7b – Babyface (7b/7b+), Minotaurus, Riistiripunta, Matchbox
7a+ Paha Paha Portsari, Echinaforce, Muuvijumpa
20 x Font 6C/6C+ (in Finland this season) -- 6/20
10x Font 7A/7A+ problems (in Finland this season) -- 2/10
Font 7B problem -- not yet
Winter trip to Kalymnos (try to break into 7c+/8a)
STG (by end of May)
1 7A/7A+ and 2x 6C/6C+ problems per week!
RP 2 routes in the 7c pyramid
June – July
Complete all the 7a+ and 7b routes in the pyramid
3 x 7A/7A+ problems, 6x 6C/6C+ problems
Aug – Oct
7b+ and 7c redpoints
2x 7A/7A+, 4x 6C/6C+ and 1x 7B
Not as much ticked as I would have liked this week. The 7A and 2x6Cs per week was based on a fantastic week when I was on top form and it's a fairly ambitious goal. I didn't achieve it last week but I'd like to keep as a goal for May. The weather is bad this week so it'll be quite a lot harder as I'll have fewer days to try on.
Mon - Social bouldering: nothing hard but easy stuff with a good friend is a good way to enjoy a couple of hours.
Wed - 2nd session (this year) on MC project. Not terribly convincing and failed to get to last years high point. Left early and went to Mellunmaki bouldering. My fingers hurt so much I couldn't climb much, but did a great 6C compression problem. Really nice climbing with awful footholds for the left and a fantastic hook for the right which I kept bouncing the hands up from. I got a slight dab from the mat. I don't think this helped me, but would have invalidated the ascent in the eyes of a purist.
Thur - Bouldering session at Haukilahti. I should have let the skin re-grow. My fingers were sore and I lacked the umpf to pull hard on them. I did a 6C slab eliminate, for the second 6C of the week. I tried a 7A that I'd come close to before, but couldn't get past my previous highpoint and realized that my sequence was making further progress difficult.
Sat - Back to Backnas and on the MC project. I felt much better about it. Again fingers felt sore, went to Hakunila but in no conditions to tick anything hard.
Sun - Quick trip to Mellunmaki and repeated the 6C (no dab this time). Tried a 6C+ but it felt really hard and I was on my own and would have liked a spotter.
I honestly don't know how many sessions I've had on MC. I could count them. Sometimes I think I'm close, sometimes I think I'm not. I also have no idea if it really is 7b+. I know that it's lost 2 holds, and I've been told by two people (who haven't managed to climb it) that it's harder than the 7c next to it but they don't know by how much. But regardless of this, I feel really committed to it. I'm going to try and document it here in detail, so I can sort out in my mind how I'm progressing with it.
Move 1. Start on two razor sharp crimps. Right foot to tiny crimp. Left foot pasted against the wall. Right hand up to an even sharper crimp.
Move 2. Left foot onto a smear. Right foot up high to good foot hold. Rock up onto right foot. Right hand on to tiny side pull.
Move 3. Hips into wall. Left foot onto edge far on the left. Left hand up to good crimp. CLIP.
Move 4. Left foot up to slightly higher more central edge. Right hand out to good crimp. HIGH CLIP. Need to pull out loads of slack for this. Take care not to Z-clip. If I fall off clipping I would hit the ground but I am really not very high up.
Move 5. Left hand to super sharp crimp with a knife edge sticking up from the middle. Nestle fingers into least painful position.
Move 6. Hard! Right foot to tiny tiny foot hold. Would have been much better before this broke. Shift weight above this with the left foot flagging and pasted against the wall. Big deadpoint with the left hand to a distant but sharp crimp.
Move 7. Hard! As I hit the crimp, minimize any swing. Paste the right foot against the wall. Lift the left foot high onto the crimp from move 3. Match on the sharp crimp.
Move 8. Delicate! Shift weight across to the left foot. Right foot on small edge. Left hand to slopey pinch. This is quite poor so has to be taken carefully and statically.
Move 9. Shift weight across to right foot. Right hand to sharp gaston.
Move 10. Balancey and Physical! Reposition left foot from inside edge to outside edge. Fall to the left and catch a second small gaston which thankfully isn't that sharp.
Move11. Lean into the left gaston and move the right hand to the poor slopey pinch from move 8. Move the hips slightly to the left. Lean off the gaston and clip.
Move 12. Crux?? Reposition the right foot on the sharp crimp with the knife blade. Cinch the toes and hook around the knife blade (all 5 mm of it). Lean out just enough to see the hidden foothold for the left. It's more like a slightly less steep smear so I can't find it by feel. This is really hard because I have to balance not falling off with placing the foot perfectly. Left foot on the hold, right foot on a high crimp. Initiate the move from the lower left foot, rock onto the high right foot and grab a sloper with the right hand. Keep the momentum and finish this move with a big inside flag. So right foot on the good high hold. Right hand on the sloper. Left foot flagging, Left hand doing nothing. CLIP. Chalk left hand.
Move 13. The route eases and I have not fallen off these moves this year. Right hand out to Sloper on right. Left foot onto small edge.
Move 14. Left hand matches on sloper.
Move 15. Right foot matches with left (outside edge). Left foot flagging onto small hold.
Move 16. Left hand out to sloper even further left. Left foot to poor hold slightly nearer. right foot to slightly higher hold. Right hand to good edge on slap above.
Move 17. Right foot high onto slab. Left hand onto tiny edge (can get just two fingers onto it.)
Move 18. Rock onto right foot on the slab. Left foot onto the sloper. Right hand over the slopey top.
Move 19. Match on the slopey top and clip the chain.
I'm 100% solid on the first 5 moves. I can't really do the sixth move from the rope but get it at about 60% of the time from the ground. Needs some umpf and a very modest power scream. On my last attempt on Saturday I linked from the ground to move 11. I can get the 12th move about 40% of time from the rope. I have never fallen off the moves 13-19 although I don't feel 100% solid on them. So in some sense I feel quite close. All I have to do is link 7 hard moves and not fall off some easier ones. I have linked moves 10-12. All I have to do is climb perfectly and remember to breathe. The biggest problem is that I can't work it easily as it is painfully sharp. So the plan for next week (if I get the chance to go on it): practice move 12. Try to improve from 40% to 70% success. Actually, the 40% is just a guess. Determine how frequently I can get it. Then no more work, just real RP attempts. It felt really good to write it out and get it straight in my mind.
In reply to AJM:
On the other hand, the thread on the other side tends much more to brevity, to the extent that often posts can just seem like a list of 'tuesday: did X, wednesday: did Y' without any sense for why people are doing those things. The explanatory rationale is half of what makes these threads interesting, IMHO, and without it, posts can read a bit like a dry 'shopping list'.
Worth posting on both though I note that I have failed to update the other side for yonks.
> if you do find the running posts too much I think the equivalent Power Club thread on UKB has fewer non climbing posters.
On the other hand, the thread on the other side tends much more to brevity, to the extent that often posts can just seem like a list of 'tuesday: did X, wednesday: did Y' without any sense for why people are doing those things. The explanatory rationale is half of what makes these threads interesting, IMHO, and without it, posts can read a bit like a dry 'shopping list'.
Worth posting on both though I note that I have failed to update the other side for yonks.
In reply to richardh:
I completely blank out the running posts as they off me no benefit and no interest but as the title says its a fit club rather than the power club UKB has.
I completely blank out the running posts as they off me no benefit and no interest but as the title says its a fit club rather than the power club UKB has.
In reply to TonyB:
Molotovin Cocktail sounds ace. How steep is it out of interest?
I can identify with that. Makes working routes a bit of a nightmare. One trick I learned on Chiselling was to identify the specific bits of my pads which took the brunt of the punishment, then used a thin layer of tape on those bits while working the route and/or warming up. Take tape off between goes otherwise you get bath skin which makes things worse. If you get used to the moves with tape on, you should have a bit of margin in reserve when you take tape off to go for the RP.
Also I don't know if it is possible here (sounds like you've got big moves/deadpoints) but I ended up making every move as static as possible, minimising the slaps between sharp holds meant I had time to catch them properly which meant by the time I was redpointing it, it was more or less pain free.
Sorry if this is trying to teach you to suck eggs. Sounds like you are nearly there anyway.
Molotovin Cocktail sounds ace. How steep is it out of interest?
> The biggest problem is that I can't work it easily as it is painfully sharp.
I can identify with that. Makes working routes a bit of a nightmare. One trick I learned on Chiselling was to identify the specific bits of my pads which took the brunt of the punishment, then used a thin layer of tape on those bits while working the route and/or warming up. Take tape off between goes otherwise you get bath skin which makes things worse. If you get used to the moves with tape on, you should have a bit of margin in reserve when you take tape off to go for the RP.
Also I don't know if it is possible here (sounds like you've got big moves/deadpoints) but I ended up making every move as static as possible, minimising the slaps between sharp holds meant I had time to catch them properly which meant by the time I was redpointing it, it was more or less pain free.
Sorry if this is trying to teach you to suck eggs. Sounds like you are nearly there anyway.
In reply to grubes:
Forgot to mention I may be off to gogarth next weekend. I think we will be on the north stack. I want Wen and Dream of white horses any other suggestions? Also this is my first sea cliff any advice?
I think the plan is to bivy up on a bench somewhere.
Forgot to mention I may be off to gogarth next weekend. I think we will be on the north stack. I want Wen and Dream of white horses any other suggestions? Also this is my first sea cliff any advice?
I think the plan is to bivy up on a bench somewhere.
In reply to TonyB: Thanks again Tony. Your goals are a bit more ambitious than mine but it will be good to see how we get on!
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (seen physio, see below)
M: Physio for elbows, swim 38l, theraband & core (500)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: nothing
T: Physio for knee
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: Bouldering at Notts wall, run gentle 3m & core (500)
Bit of a rest week, think too much climbing in past couple of weeks had aggravated my elbows again, physio couldn't really say what was wrong but agreed with addressing shoulder, rotator cuff and scapula to see if it helps. Knee problem is apparently patellar tendonitis so more exercises to do for that and a slow return to running.
On a positive note, I climbed well for me at the wall yesterday with some good flashes.
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (3 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again (seen physio, see below)
M: Physio for elbows, swim 38l, theraband & core (500)
T: Theraband & core (500)
W: nothing
T: Physio for knee
F: nothing
S: nothing
S: Bouldering at Notts wall, run gentle 3m & core (500)
Bit of a rest week, think too much climbing in past couple of weeks had aggravated my elbows again, physio couldn't really say what was wrong but agreed with addressing shoulder, rotator cuff and scapula to see if it helps. Knee problem is apparently patellar tendonitis so more exercises to do for that and a slow return to running.
On a positive note, I climbed well for me at the wall yesterday with some good flashes.
Thank you TonyB:
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
Quite a lot of short sessions this week - ended up logging my third longest cycling week and my third longest running week this year... The rest of May is going to be tough, I just have to get through to Bala and then it will be 3 easier weeks up to the big day...
M: cycling (getting used to TT bike) 1 hour.
Tu: am swimming 45 minutes. Pm another hour on the TT bike with 10 minute run-off.
W: ran 22km in 2 hours as 14:1 run:walk, overall average 5:23 min/km. Tough, but pleased with session.
Th: rest
F: am swimming 45 minutes. Pm another hour on the TT bike with 10 minute run-off.
Sa: cycled (TT bike again) 75km in 3h23. This was an out and back and the outwards journey was mostly uphill and into a nasty headwind, so it was pretty hard work. I'm getting there with the bike, but need more confidence on the aerobars - I keep getting off them so I have my hands near the brakes!
Su: bit of core and strength in the morning. Pm Masters swim session 1 hour - lots of speed work which I have not done much of recently and which nearly killed me...
Upcoming races:
Bala Middle Distace Triathlon 12th June
Ironman Austria 3rd July
Quite a lot of short sessions this week - ended up logging my third longest cycling week and my third longest running week this year... The rest of May is going to be tough, I just have to get through to Bala and then it will be 3 easier weeks up to the big day...
M: cycling (getting used to TT bike) 1 hour.
Tu: am swimming 45 minutes. Pm another hour on the TT bike with 10 minute run-off.
W: ran 22km in 2 hours as 14:1 run:walk, overall average 5:23 min/km. Tough, but pleased with session.
Th: rest
F: am swimming 45 minutes. Pm another hour on the TT bike with 10 minute run-off.
Sa: cycled (TT bike again) 75km in 3h23. This was an out and back and the outwards journey was mostly uphill and into a nasty headwind, so it was pretty hard work. I'm getting there with the bike, but need more confidence on the aerobars - I keep getting off them so I have my hands near the brakes!
Su: bit of core and strength in the morning. Pm Masters swim session 1 hour - lots of speed work which I have not done much of recently and which nearly killed me...
In reply to richardh:
As one of the worst offenders in the category of people who don't appear to climb much if at all, I have to admit to wondering why I keep posting on here sometimes - I have talked about not doing so but the response has been that it is up to me, and you are the first person who has objected. I do see where you are coming from. I guess that I like the discipline of reporting somewhere on what I have done, and people have been supportive and encouraging.
In my defence, I can only say that I have climbed a bit in the past, and indeed this thread got me into what was probably the hardest bit of climbing I've ever done (a 6A+ "redpoint" indoors, you may laugh). Yes, there's currently an Ironman shaped gap in my walking and climbing, but like Petestack I still have goals that I hope to get back to once this current obsession is over.
As one of the worst offenders in the category of people who don't appear to climb much if at all, I have to admit to wondering why I keep posting on here sometimes - I have talked about not doing so but the response has been that it is up to me, and you are the first person who has objected. I do see where you are coming from. I guess that I like the discipline of reporting somewhere on what I have done, and people have been supportive and encouraging.
In my defence, I can only say that I have climbed a bit in the past, and indeed this thread got me into what was probably the hardest bit of climbing I've ever done (a 6A+ "redpoint" indoors, you may laugh). Yes, there's currently an Ironman shaped gap in my walking and climbing, but like Petestack I still have goals that I hope to get back to once this current obsession is over.
In reply to plexiglass_nick:
Thanks Nick. It's a very attractive piece of rock. I think it is some kind of schist, so it is all ripples and waves and the whole route is concave (or is it convex?). The first two moves are about 80 degrees. The meat of the route is about 10 degrees overhanging and when you pull your feet onto the top slab you can reach this rounded sloping top which you clip the chains from.
Yes, I taped the worst two pads last time and by the end of the session they felt like the best! It isn't just skin damage though. It really hurts to pull on the holds and I have a little of what looks like bruising under the tips. This seems to go away after about 3-4h.
Can't do this. I'm afraid.
It took writing all that out to convince myself how close I am. All I have to do is climb all 7 of the moves perfectly, but finding that level of accuracy is the challenge. I'd be really keen to try some of the stuff at Malham/Portland one of these days. It sounds like you guys have been having some great successes there.
> (In reply to TonyB)
>
> Molotovin Cocktail sounds ace. How steep is it out of interest?
>
>
> Molotovin Cocktail sounds ace. How steep is it out of interest?
>
Thanks Nick. It's a very attractive piece of rock. I think it is some kind of schist, so it is all ripples and waves and the whole route is concave (or is it convex?). The first two moves are about 80 degrees. The meat of the route is about 10 degrees overhanging and when you pull your feet onto the top slab you can reach this rounded sloping top which you clip the chains from.
>
> I can identify with that. Makes working routes a bit of a nightmare. One trick I learned on Chiselling was to identify the specific bits of my pads which took the brunt of the punishment, then used a thin layer of tape on those bits while working the route and/or warming up. Take tape off between goes otherwise you get bath skin which makes things worse. If you get used to the moves with tape on, you should have a bit of margin in reserve when you take tape off to go for the RP.
> I can identify with that. Makes working routes a bit of a nightmare. One trick I learned on Chiselling was to identify the specific bits of my pads which took the brunt of the punishment, then used a thin layer of tape on those bits while working the route and/or warming up. Take tape off between goes otherwise you get bath skin which makes things worse. If you get used to the moves with tape on, you should have a bit of margin in reserve when you take tape off to go for the RP.
Yes, I taped the worst two pads last time and by the end of the session they felt like the best! It isn't just skin damage though. It really hurts to pull on the holds and I have a little of what looks like bruising under the tips. This seems to go away after about 3-4h.
>
> Also I don't know if it is possible here (sounds like you've got big moves/deadpoints) but I ended up making every move as static as possible, minimising the slaps between sharp holds meant I had time to catch them properly which meant by the time I was redpointing it, it was more or less pain free.
>
> Also I don't know if it is possible here (sounds like you've got big moves/deadpoints) but I ended up making every move as static as possible, minimising the slaps between sharp holds meant I had time to catch them properly which meant by the time I was redpointing it, it was more or less pain free.
>
Can't do this. I'm afraid.
> Sorry if this is trying to teach you to suck eggs. Sounds like you are nearly there anyway.
It took writing all that out to convince myself how close I am. All I have to do is climb all 7 of the moves perfectly, but finding that level of accuracy is the challenge. I'd be really keen to try some of the stuff at Malham/Portland one of these days. It sounds like you guys have been having some great successes there.
I would have thought that even if you don't run yourself you could take inspiration from the achievements and dedication of many on here. I don't cycle but I'm still impressed by he time and effort put in by others. It is after all called "Fit club".
In reply to richardh: I think in some ways you have a valid point and I’m probably the worst offender from that point of view. To put it in bullet points:
• I used to climb exclusively with a bit of running thrown in until a change in circumstances meant I switched to running and discovered that I’m not too bad at it, that I really enjoy it and want to improve/ see what I’m capable of.
• I live ~45mins from a wall and about 3 hours from any crags outside therefore, I can’t even run in the hills - time is a problem (there just isn’t enough of it to climb as well).
• Training for climbing and running is kind of mutually exclusive – just take a look at pro climbers and runners and spot the difference!
• Climbing at the moment has to be an all or nothing thing for me (especially if I want to do the kind of stuff I aspired to up until 12/18 months ago ie font 7B, sport 8a)
• I joined the fit club first around posting as a climber – now that I’ve switched to running should I bugger off and then switch back once I start climbing again?
• For me I get lots from the climbers on the thread in terms of training/ tactics/ watching their progression which I’ll use when I start climbing again. Sorry you don’t get anything back in return.
• I don’t want the over the top analysis etc from a running forum.
As been already said I question why I post here and after a long time over the winter injured I wanted to start up again but after further reflection I’ve been undecided and I think your post is probably going to make my mind up for me. (hmm that sounds like I’m throwing my toys out of the pram – but I’m really not, honest!)
Thanks to the various folks who have kept the club going and best of luck to everyone in their goals for the rest of 2011 (that’s the climbers and runners!) I’ll probably check back in sometime.
Cheers!
• I used to climb exclusively with a bit of running thrown in until a change in circumstances meant I switched to running and discovered that I’m not too bad at it, that I really enjoy it and want to improve/ see what I’m capable of.
• I live ~45mins from a wall and about 3 hours from any crags outside therefore, I can’t even run in the hills - time is a problem (there just isn’t enough of it to climb as well).
• Training for climbing and running is kind of mutually exclusive – just take a look at pro climbers and runners and spot the difference!
• Climbing at the moment has to be an all or nothing thing for me (especially if I want to do the kind of stuff I aspired to up until 12/18 months ago ie font 7B, sport 8a)
• I joined the fit club first around posting as a climber – now that I’ve switched to running should I bugger off and then switch back once I start climbing again?
• For me I get lots from the climbers on the thread in terms of training/ tactics/ watching their progression which I’ll use when I start climbing again. Sorry you don’t get anything back in return.
• I don’t want the over the top analysis etc from a running forum.
As been already said I question why I post here and after a long time over the winter injured I wanted to start up again but after further reflection I’ve been undecided and I think your post is probably going to make my mind up for me. (hmm that sounds like I’m throwing my toys out of the pram – but I’m really not, honest!)
Thanks to the various folks who have kept the club going and best of luck to everyone in their goals for the rest of 2011 (that’s the climbers and runners!) I’ll probably check back in sometime.
Cheers!
OK, so I knew I'd missed a week or two but it turns out it was six. Whoops! I've spent a lot of time in the Lakes climbing and walking and I guess the time just got away with me.
Anyway, major news... I have now run 1000 miles in the last 365 days so I've finally broken that barrier. Injury has always stopped me so I think this is reward for holding back and working on base mileage for a sustained period. Now to start racing and reaping the rewards. (I hope)
A quick highlights package...
Wk 212 - Gentle running, 19 miles total + a 7 mile walk
Wk 213 - Gentle running, 23.5 miles total
Wk 214 - Lakes, Hellvelyn scramble, Grey Crag Buttermere, Bowscale Tarn wild camp and Sharp Edge evening walk.
Wk 215 - Shin very sore for some reason from 214, rested all week. Lakes for weekend. Climbed in Langdale and walked on the Sunday.
Wk 216 - Some speed work introduced to running, 1 x intervals. 12.5 mile long run, 30.5 miles total
So, to week 217 which was a little interrupted by work but I was outside doing physical stuff so tiring anyway!
M and T nothing
W: Got up at 5:30 to go for an 8.5 mile hilly run along Hadrian's Wall
Th and F, nothing
S: 6.5 mile run
S: 15 mile run, last half at race pace (7 min miles)
STG (next week): Finish Tewkesbury half in under 1:30 (PB is 1:25:50 but specific training has been lacking recently)
MTG (one month): Run 100 miles in May, go under 2:30:00 for the North Downs 30k
LTG (end June): Entered into at least one ultra before Sept
VTLG: Run 100 miles in one day, beat 3:00 marathon, 1:25 half and 40min 10k.
Start climbing again, I've forgotten how much I enjoy it.
Anyway, major news... I have now run 1000 miles in the last 365 days so I've finally broken that barrier. Injury has always stopped me so I think this is reward for holding back and working on base mileage for a sustained period. Now to start racing and reaping the rewards. (I hope)
A quick highlights package...
Wk 212 - Gentle running, 19 miles total + a 7 mile walk
Wk 213 - Gentle running, 23.5 miles total
Wk 214 - Lakes, Hellvelyn scramble, Grey Crag Buttermere, Bowscale Tarn wild camp and Sharp Edge evening walk.
Wk 215 - Shin very sore for some reason from 214, rested all week. Lakes for weekend. Climbed in Langdale and walked on the Sunday.
Wk 216 - Some speed work introduced to running, 1 x intervals. 12.5 mile long run, 30.5 miles total
So, to week 217 which was a little interrupted by work but I was outside doing physical stuff so tiring anyway!
M and T nothing
W: Got up at 5:30 to go for an 8.5 mile hilly run along Hadrian's Wall
Th and F, nothing
S: 6.5 mile run
S: 15 mile run, last half at race pace (7 min miles)
STG (next week): Finish Tewkesbury half in under 1:30 (PB is 1:25:50 but specific training has been lacking recently)
MTG (one month): Run 100 miles in May, go under 2:30:00 for the North Downs 30k
LTG (end June): Entered into at least one ultra before Sept
VTLG: Run 100 miles in one day, beat 3:00 marathon, 1:25 half and 40min 10k.
Start climbing again, I've forgotten how much I enjoy it.
In reply to richardh:
I post here because I get inspiration from people achieving defined goals in all sports although I admit I focus on the running goals.
My background is someone who loves the mountains and climbs when I can. I often don't bother to talk about my climbing because it's not focussed and I'm frankly not very good. 3 or 4 weeks a year my post will be climbing dominated because I've spent a week in Scotland, or the Alps or something like that. But overall I don't think my climbing adds anything to my contribution to the thread. A bit like a climber who jogs 2 or 3 miles a week I suppose. If I'm injured, my focus shifts to recovery and recuperation which we can all relate to.
So I use the thread to give myself goals and make them public. If I didn't do it here, I'd have my own blog I guess. I also keep a record of these achievements on running sites, but I get most support and motivation from here.
I'd be happy to go to a different thread or even website if the majority opinion was that I should, but it's a 'fitclub' thread and I think it should be left as is personally. Now that there is a hillwalking angle to the website, I think that running is even more appropriate than it ever was before.
I post here because I get inspiration from people achieving defined goals in all sports although I admit I focus on the running goals.
My background is someone who loves the mountains and climbs when I can. I often don't bother to talk about my climbing because it's not focussed and I'm frankly not very good. 3 or 4 weeks a year my post will be climbing dominated because I've spent a week in Scotland, or the Alps or something like that. But overall I don't think my climbing adds anything to my contribution to the thread. A bit like a climber who jogs 2 or 3 miles a week I suppose. If I'm injured, my focus shifts to recovery and recuperation which we can all relate to.
So I use the thread to give myself goals and make them public. If I didn't do it here, I'd have my own blog I guess. I also keep a record of these achievements on running sites, but I get most support and motivation from here.
I'd be happy to go to a different thread or even website if the majority opinion was that I should, but it's a 'fitclub' thread and I think it should be left as is personally. Now that there is a hillwalking angle to the website, I think that running is even more appropriate than it ever was before.
In reply to TonyB: Cheers, thanks for running this..
Not a good week but work and international travel meant a poor running week and no climbing
m: 10 mile road run.
t: am: 3 miles. pm: 9 miles on road.
w: rest. worked all day and 6 hrs driving
t: 13 mile trail run
f: am: 6 miles on road. pm: 9 miles on trails.
s: flight back to UK
s: 9 miles on road after flight.
Not a good week but work and international travel meant a poor running week and no climbing
m: 10 mile road run.
t: am: 3 miles. pm: 9 miles on road.
w: rest. worked all day and 6 hrs driving
t: 13 mile trail run
f: am: 6 miles on road. pm: 9 miles on trails.
s: flight back to UK
s: 9 miles on road after flight.
In reply to richardh: For me, running is very much linked with climbing. I'm not hot shot when it comes to either but I find they both compliment each other nicely. I like how I can improve very quickly indeed with running, far more than I can with climbing and I like that running helps me keep weight off which improves my climbing. I've knocked about 4mins off my 3mile time in the last few weeks, lost 1/2 a stone in weight and am now ready to work some 6b's outdoors (which I would never have dreamt of last year) and working some 6b+'s indoors (which I never would have dreamt of last year)
When I used to post on fit club, I had a goal of consolidating at VS (which I did) then I got injured, started Uni and got married to a non climber which kind of curtailed my weekends of trad climbing quite drastically. However, hubby (posts as Streapadair on here) is a very keen mountain man and is quite happy scrambling along things like Tower Ridge and Cuillin Ridge without a rope and going on trips to the Alps. I've been fairly happy to compromise on my climbing time, so I can spend time with hubby at weekends and keep fit (running, scrambling and hillwalking) for an upcoming 3weeks jaunt to the Alps.
In the meantime, my daughter is really into competition climbing and sport climbing so I'm happy spending my midweek time doing that with her and atleast I still get to climb. And you never know, if I manage to knock off another stone in weight, get strong as hell from all the sport climbing and bouldering I'm doing, when I eventually get back to trad climbing I might get further than VS. Though I'm doubtful as my head isn't the best at leading and I need to plug away at trad on a regular basis to keep confident.
Anyway, my heart lies in winter climbing and I also reached my other goal of the previous bout of fitclub, of leading IV in winter. And all my running will certainly be of benefit for next winter.
When I used to post on fit club, I had a goal of consolidating at VS (which I did) then I got injured, started Uni and got married to a non climber which kind of curtailed my weekends of trad climbing quite drastically. However, hubby (posts as Streapadair on here) is a very keen mountain man and is quite happy scrambling along things like Tower Ridge and Cuillin Ridge without a rope and going on trips to the Alps. I've been fairly happy to compromise on my climbing time, so I can spend time with hubby at weekends and keep fit (running, scrambling and hillwalking) for an upcoming 3weeks jaunt to the Alps.
In the meantime, my daughter is really into competition climbing and sport climbing so I'm happy spending my midweek time doing that with her and atleast I still get to climb. And you never know, if I manage to knock off another stone in weight, get strong as hell from all the sport climbing and bouldering I'm doing, when I eventually get back to trad climbing I might get further than VS. Though I'm doubtful as my head isn't the best at leading and I need to plug away at trad on a regular basis to keep confident.
Anyway, my heart lies in winter climbing and I also reached my other goal of the previous bout of fitclub, of leading IV in winter. And all my running will certainly be of benefit for next winter.
I'm one of the running culprits here and have wondered for some time whether I should be posting...
When I started looking at these forums again about 18months ago I was fully intending to hopefully return to climbing, which I did mainly at University and for a year or so afterwards, but this has been put aside by an unexpected but hugely enjoyable improvement in my running and obvious family commitments with getting married and becoming a Dad in that time. There just isn't time to do all I would like to do. Getting 1 hour daily is difficult and leads to problems occasionally, so taking days or even hours at a time off to go climbing at the moment just isn't possible.
I have found these threads inspiring and hope that others may have benefitted from my posts. I will stop posting if the majority feel that I should, no worries.
M: Rest.
T: 6mile beach/trail run.
W: 4.5mile beach/trail run.
T: AM 4.5mile beach/trail run. PM 4.5mile beach/trail run.
F: 4.5mile beach/trail run.
S: 10mile fell run Tal Y Fan from Sychnant.
S: Nothing. Family stuff.
Meant to be racing on Sunday in Llandudno. Unsure if this is going to happen. If it is will be aiming for sub 1hour but would expect around 62mins. Had been feeling quite good until Sunday but an unexpected turn of events might have changed things.
In reply to all:
Thanks for the balanced replies guys, certainly not my intention to make anyone feel obliged or precipitated into leaving. I feel like a pub landlord that's asked his louder clients to leave, then is a bit dejected to find his pub's gone all quiet.
Certainly seems I'm in the minority, and can continue to skim over those posts that are less relevant ( to me ) than others, though I do read the odd fell-running one with something akin to horrified fascination. An interesting range of reasons why people do, as well, which puts things into more context.
All the best for your goals, whatever they may be.
Thanks for the balanced replies guys, certainly not my intention to make anyone feel obliged or precipitated into leaving. I feel like a pub landlord that's asked his louder clients to leave, then is a bit dejected to find his pub's gone all quiet.
Certainly seems I'm in the minority, and can continue to skim over those posts that are less relevant ( to me ) than others, though I do read the odd fell-running one with something akin to horrified fascination. An interesting range of reasons why people do, as well, which puts things into more context.
All the best for your goals, whatever they may be.
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers tony, didn't really " 'av it! " at the weeeknd, though I did do OK once my head started getting into the groove again.
Richardh, I know what you mean, but tend to skip over the runners. If I'm honest, I tend to follow individuals rather than all users. However, it is good to get things out in the air, and at least on fitclub everyone is reading off the same song sheet rather than spouting rubbish out of ignorance like on many other internet forums. So I see why others like it here too. Hopefully you don't get bashed for being honest with your thoughts.
Anyway, on with the week:
Thurs: A couple of hours bouldering.
Sat: Ansteys - 7a on 2nd go, worked 7b and with fresh arms it'll go. It's steeper there than I am used to. Lead head took time.
Sun: Torbryan - Onsight 6c, 6c+. Flash/onsight 7a+ (depends where you draw the line) this is 2nd time I have ticked 7a+ on first go - so pleased. 7a+/b RP too. Had a bash at the 7c+ on TR, it felt like with work it'd be a goer. Which is encouraging.
Next week: setting for 3 days, so maybe run out of climbing enthusiasm. Day trip for bolts at the weeekned to try and set myself up for the french bolts (Orpierre) the following week.
After this I may try to reinstate some goals, besides "push harder" and "tick a 7 a day" which is all I've been on for a couple of months.
Thanks all, Kev
Cheers tony, didn't really " 'av it! " at the weeeknd, though I did do OK once my head started getting into the groove again.
Richardh, I know what you mean, but tend to skip over the runners. If I'm honest, I tend to follow individuals rather than all users. However, it is good to get things out in the air, and at least on fitclub everyone is reading off the same song sheet rather than spouting rubbish out of ignorance like on many other internet forums. So I see why others like it here too. Hopefully you don't get bashed for being honest with your thoughts.
Anyway, on with the week:
Thurs: A couple of hours bouldering.
Sat: Ansteys - 7a on 2nd go, worked 7b and with fresh arms it'll go. It's steeper there than I am used to. Lead head took time.
Sun: Torbryan - Onsight 6c, 6c+. Flash/onsight 7a+ (depends where you draw the line) this is 2nd time I have ticked 7a+ on first go - so pleased. 7a+/b RP too. Had a bash at the 7c+ on TR, it felt like with work it'd be a goer. Which is encouraging.
Next week: setting for 3 days, so maybe run out of climbing enthusiasm. Day trip for bolts at the weeekned to try and set myself up for the french bolts (Orpierre) the following week.
After this I may try to reinstate some goals, besides "push harder" and "tick a 7 a day" which is all I've been on for a couple of months.
Thanks all, Kev
In reply to TonyB: Cheers
Mon: 2.5k steady swim
Tue: 8k easy run in morning. Evening, 15k run, including 3k at about 5k pace early on, most of the rest at around HM pace, and a last km at just faster than 5k pace.
Wed: Steady 36k cycle
Thu: Easy 15k run
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Easy 9k run, including acting as 25min pacer at Roundhay Park Run.
Sun: Nothing
Decent start to the week, but fell apart towards the end of the week due to a mix of numptyism (i.e. leaving keys 150miles from where they were needed!) and the after effects of a festival wedding.
I almost wished I'd race the Park Run to add some decent speed work, but had promised to volunteer, and I think it's only fair I give something back to it occasionally. Also, by the number of people who'd stuck with me most of the way around and finished in the 24.50-25min window, I think I did a good job.
Not sure how much I'll manage this upcoming week as work is a little manic, but there is a local 10k on Wednesday I will attempt to make it to. I'm also off on holiday this weekend, starting with the Derwent Island Swim, and cheering on folks on the Windermere Marathon, the TiTs on days 9 and 10, and this completely brilliant nutter of a bloke who's just finished the fourth day of 10 Fred Whittons in 10 Days ( http://10fw-in-10.blogspot.com/ )
Mon: 2.5k steady swim
Tue: 8k easy run in morning. Evening, 15k run, including 3k at about 5k pace early on, most of the rest at around HM pace, and a last km at just faster than 5k pace.
Wed: Steady 36k cycle
Thu: Easy 15k run
Fri: Nothing
Sat: Easy 9k run, including acting as 25min pacer at Roundhay Park Run.
Sun: Nothing
Decent start to the week, but fell apart towards the end of the week due to a mix of numptyism (i.e. leaving keys 150miles from where they were needed!) and the after effects of a festival wedding.
I almost wished I'd race the Park Run to add some decent speed work, but had promised to volunteer, and I think it's only fair I give something back to it occasionally. Also, by the number of people who'd stuck with me most of the way around and finished in the 24.50-25min window, I think I did a good job.
Not sure how much I'll manage this upcoming week as work is a little manic, but there is a local 10k on Wednesday I will attempt to make it to. I'm also off on holiday this weekend, starting with the Derwent Island Swim, and cheering on folks on the Windermere Marathon, the TiTs on days 9 and 10, and this completely brilliant nutter of a bloke who's just finished the fourth day of 10 Fred Whittons in 10 Days ( http://10fw-in-10.blogspot.com/ )
In reply to TonyB:
I do understand where RichH is coming from becuase this is EXACTLY what I want to be seeing and hearing from other members. THIS MAKES ME PSYCHED! That others are in the same position as me!! CAN'T STOP THINKING ABOUT THE MOVES!!!! ARRRRGGGHHHHh..
> Move 1. Start on two razor sharp crimps. Right foot to tiny crimp. Left foot pasted against the wall. Right hand up to an even sharper crimp.
> Move 2. Left foot onto a smear. Right foot up high to good foot hold. Rock up onto right foot. Right hand on to tiny side pull.
> Move 3. Hips into wall. Left foot onto edge far on the left. Left hand up to good crimp. CLIP.
> Move 4. Left foot up to slightly higher more central edge. Right hand out to good crimp. HIGH CLIP. Need to pull out loads of slack for this. Take care not to Z-clip. If I fall off clipping I would hit the ground but I am really not very high up.
> Move 5. Left hand to super sharp crimp with a knife edge sticking up from the middle. Nestle fingers into least painful position.
> Move 6. Hard! Right foot to tiny tiny foot hold. Would have been much better before this broke. Shift weight above this with the left foot flagging and pasted against the wall. Big deadpoint with the left hand to a distant but sharp crimp.
> Move 7. Hard! As I hit the crimp, minimize any swing. Paste the right foot against the wall. Lift the left foot high onto the crimp from move 3. Match on the sharp crimp.
> Move 8. Delicate! Shift weight across to the left foot. Right foot on small edge. Left hand to slopey pinch. This is quite poor so has to be taken carefully and statically.
> Move 9. Shift weight across to right foot. Right hand to sharp gaston.
> Move 10. Balancey and Physical! Reposition left foot from inside edge to outside edge. Fall to the left and catch a second small gaston which thankfully isn't that sharp.
> Move11. Lean into the left gaston and move the right hand to the poor slopey pinch from move 8. Move the hips slightly to the left. Lean off the gaston and clip.
> Move 12. Crux?? Reposition the right foot on the sharp crimp with the knife blade. Cinch the toes and hook around the knife blade (all 5 mm of it). Lean out just enough to see the hidden foothold for the left. It's more like a slightly less steep smear so I can't find it by feel. This is really hard because I have to balance not falling off with placing the foot perfectly. Left foot on the hold, right foot on a high crimp. Initiate the move from the lower left foot, rock onto the high right foot and grab a sloper with the right hand. Keep the momentum and finish this move with a big inside flag. So right foot on the good high hold. Right hand on the sloper. Left foot flagging, Left hand doing nothing. CLIP. Chalk left hand.
> Move 13. The route eases and I have not fallen off these moves this year. Right hand out to Sloper on right. Left foot onto small edge.
> Move 14. Left hand matches on sloper.
> Move 15. Right foot matches with left (outside edge). Left foot flagging onto small hold.
> Move 16. Left hand out to sloper even further left. Left foot to poor hold slightly nearer. right foot to slightly higher hold. Right hand to good edge on slap above.
> Move 17. Right foot high onto slab. Left hand onto tiny edge (can get just two fingers onto it.)
> Move 18. Rock onto right foot on the slab. Left foot onto the sloper. Right hand over the slopey top.
> Move 19. Match on the slopey top and clip the chain.
> Move 2. Left foot onto a smear. Right foot up high to good foot hold. Rock up onto right foot. Right hand on to tiny side pull.
> Move 3. Hips into wall. Left foot onto edge far on the left. Left hand up to good crimp. CLIP.
> Move 4. Left foot up to slightly higher more central edge. Right hand out to good crimp. HIGH CLIP. Need to pull out loads of slack for this. Take care not to Z-clip. If I fall off clipping I would hit the ground but I am really not very high up.
> Move 5. Left hand to super sharp crimp with a knife edge sticking up from the middle. Nestle fingers into least painful position.
> Move 6. Hard! Right foot to tiny tiny foot hold. Would have been much better before this broke. Shift weight above this with the left foot flagging and pasted against the wall. Big deadpoint with the left hand to a distant but sharp crimp.
> Move 7. Hard! As I hit the crimp, minimize any swing. Paste the right foot against the wall. Lift the left foot high onto the crimp from move 3. Match on the sharp crimp.
> Move 8. Delicate! Shift weight across to the left foot. Right foot on small edge. Left hand to slopey pinch. This is quite poor so has to be taken carefully and statically.
> Move 9. Shift weight across to right foot. Right hand to sharp gaston.
> Move 10. Balancey and Physical! Reposition left foot from inside edge to outside edge. Fall to the left and catch a second small gaston which thankfully isn't that sharp.
> Move11. Lean into the left gaston and move the right hand to the poor slopey pinch from move 8. Move the hips slightly to the left. Lean off the gaston and clip.
> Move 12. Crux?? Reposition the right foot on the sharp crimp with the knife blade. Cinch the toes and hook around the knife blade (all 5 mm of it). Lean out just enough to see the hidden foothold for the left. It's more like a slightly less steep smear so I can't find it by feel. This is really hard because I have to balance not falling off with placing the foot perfectly. Left foot on the hold, right foot on a high crimp. Initiate the move from the lower left foot, rock onto the high right foot and grab a sloper with the right hand. Keep the momentum and finish this move with a big inside flag. So right foot on the good high hold. Right hand on the sloper. Left foot flagging, Left hand doing nothing. CLIP. Chalk left hand.
> Move 13. The route eases and I have not fallen off these moves this year. Right hand out to Sloper on right. Left foot onto small edge.
> Move 14. Left hand matches on sloper.
> Move 15. Right foot matches with left (outside edge). Left foot flagging onto small hold.
> Move 16. Left hand out to sloper even further left. Left foot to poor hold slightly nearer. right foot to slightly higher hold. Right hand to good edge on slap above.
> Move 17. Right foot high onto slab. Left hand onto tiny edge (can get just two fingers onto it.)
> Move 18. Rock onto right foot on the slab. Left foot onto the sloper. Right hand over the slopey top.
> Move 19. Match on the slopey top and clip the chain.
I do understand where RichH is coming from becuase this is EXACTLY what I want to be seeing and hearing from other members. THIS MAKES ME PSYCHED! That others are in the same position as me!! CAN'T STOP THINKING ABOUT THE MOVES!!!! ARRRRGGGHHHHh..
In reply to richardh:
Trouble is (judging from some of the replies) that's probably what's going to happen...
As I'd guess most of us do...
Really?
In reply to JimmyKay:
And a 19-move, blow-by-blow account of how to climb a route is somehow more 'fit club' than running (despite containing nothing directly about fitness)?
Wish we could just get back to the old 'live and let live' vibe (read/digest what interests you, skip/skim the rest and let others do the same), but suspect things will never feel quite the same again! :-/
> certainly not my intention to make anyone feel obliged or precipitated into leaving.
Trouble is (judging from some of the replies) that's probably what's going to happen...
> can continue to skim over those posts that are less relevant ( to me ) than others
As I'd guess most of us do...
> though I do read the odd fell-running one with something akin to horrified fascination.
Really?
In reply to JimmyKay:
> I do understand where RichH is coming from becuase this is EXACTLY what I want to be seeing and hearing from other members. THIS MAKES ME PSYCHED! That others are in the same position as me!! CAN'T STOP THINKING ABOUT THE MOVES!!!! ARRRRGGGHHHHh..
And a 19-move, blow-by-blow account of how to climb a route is somehow more 'fit club' than running (despite containing nothing directly about fitness)?
Wish we could just get back to the old 'live and let live' vibe (read/digest what interests you, skip/skim the rest and let others do the same), but suspect things will never feel quite the same again! :-/
In reply to TonyB:
Cheers Tony. Not exactly feeling strong, but at least feeling less weak! It always seems to take me quite a while to get over longer trips.
Mon – Arch. 1x V4, 2x V3. 2x green probs (V2-V4 circuit).
Tues – Arch. 13x green probs, five left to do.
Wedns – Rest.
Thurs – Fingerboard.
Fri – Castle. Up to V2, short session.
Sat – Arch. 5 remaining green problems, 1x V3.
Sun – Castle for another short session. 1x V3, 1x V4. 30 mins bodyweight workout.
Cheers Tony. Not exactly feeling strong, but at least feeling less weak! It always seems to take me quite a while to get over longer trips.
Mon – Arch. 1x V4, 2x V3. 2x green probs (V2-V4 circuit).
Tues – Arch. 13x green probs, five left to do.
Wedns – Rest.
Thurs – Fingerboard.
Fri – Castle. Up to V2, short session.
Sat – Arch. 5 remaining green problems, 1x V3.
Sun – Castle for another short session. 1x V3, 1x V4. 30 mins bodyweight workout.
In reply to petestack:
Haha, I just think it's cool that i'm not the only one who memorises all the moves! You get fit by running, cycling, rowing, climbing etc... so they all come under the same title ('getting fit' club.) I joined this club to share the psyche of improving with others.
I said I understood where Rich was coming from to the extent of their being people who are entirely non-climbing posting a climbing forum. I didn't say I was against it, just that I prefer to read the climbing posts!!
I was a long distance runner for years. I had a really big competition coming up and trained super hard. Like 10times a week hard. And then I pulled a muscle in my foot a week before the comp and couldn't walk properly for 4weeks, let alone jog/run. I was gutted! When I was on my massive downer because I'd missed the race I'd been looking forward to for a year (it was the yearly university championships) I got fed up of being the skinny guy, so I ended up spending the following 6months lifting weights in the gym.
That's when I got into climbing. A runner with 6months worth of upper body bulk meant I got up a F6b clean in my first ever session. I then applied my running training to climbing and tried to train with the better climbers so I could watch and learn from them. The training sessions I would have spent running were easily replaced with climbing sessions. I think this is one of the reasons I don't find training for climbing boring (infact I enjoy it) because I did so much running training and just got used to the idea you just have to do it!
And 2years 8months later I'm falling off the top of v9's and F8a's regularly and have been able to flash F7c. Climbed v9 after 2years of climbing. I put it all down to applying my running mentality to climbing. When you start seeing climbing as a sport, that's when you start to get big gains from it. The more you train + The more experience you get climbing = The better you get!
Oh and I have strong-ish fingers!!
Haha, I just think it's cool that i'm not the only one who memorises all the moves! You get fit by running, cycling, rowing, climbing etc... so they all come under the same title ('getting fit' club.) I joined this club to share the psyche of improving with others.
I said I understood where Rich was coming from to the extent of their being people who are entirely non-climbing posting a climbing forum. I didn't say I was against it, just that I prefer to read the climbing posts!!
I was a long distance runner for years. I had a really big competition coming up and trained super hard. Like 10times a week hard. And then I pulled a muscle in my foot a week before the comp and couldn't walk properly for 4weeks, let alone jog/run. I was gutted! When I was on my massive downer because I'd missed the race I'd been looking forward to for a year (it was the yearly university championships) I got fed up of being the skinny guy, so I ended up spending the following 6months lifting weights in the gym.
That's when I got into climbing. A runner with 6months worth of upper body bulk meant I got up a F6b clean in my first ever session. I then applied my running training to climbing and tried to train with the better climbers so I could watch and learn from them. The training sessions I would have spent running were easily replaced with climbing sessions. I think this is one of the reasons I don't find training for climbing boring (infact I enjoy it) because I did so much running training and just got used to the idea you just have to do it!
And 2years 8months later I'm falling off the top of v9's and F8a's regularly and have been able to flash F7c. Climbed v9 after 2years of climbing. I put it all down to applying my running mentality to climbing. When you start seeing climbing as a sport, that's when you start to get big gains from it. The more you train + The more experience you get climbing = The better you get!
Oh and I have strong-ish fingers!!
In reply to JimmyKay:
I'm not sure there are, though. I only post about running here, and actually climb very little at the moment.
However, I'm very definitley a climber that runs, not a runner who's somehow got lost on his way to the Runners World forums. If you gave me a free week I would go climbing. If I had a free summer (and maybe be a bit less worried about how pissed off my family would be if I didn't come back) I'd go to the Alps. If there is a climber and a runner at the table in the pub it's the climber that I will immediately click with (ok, not if they're a boulderer or gymite, but otherwise...). I read climbing guides in the loo. I've wasted huge amounts of time on climbing forums (anyone remember rec.climbing?). And so forth and so on.
So I meant what I said above above about being here becasue you meet a better class of people. I share my running stuff with climbers because those are the sorts of people that I want to hang out with
I'm not sure there are, though. I only post about running here, and actually climb very little at the moment.
However, I'm very definitley a climber that runs, not a runner who's somehow got lost on his way to the Runners World forums. If you gave me a free week I would go climbing. If I had a free summer (and maybe be a bit less worried about how pissed off my family would be if I didn't come back) I'd go to the Alps. If there is a climber and a runner at the table in the pub it's the climber that I will immediately click with (ok, not if they're a boulderer or gymite, but otherwise...). I read climbing guides in the loo. I've wasted huge amounts of time on climbing forums (anyone remember rec.climbing?). And so forth and so on.
So I meant what I said above above about being here becasue you meet a better class of people. I share my running stuff with climbers because those are the sorts of people that I want to hang out with
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Sorry, forgot to copy the original message: That little outburst was in response to Jimmy saying " I understood where Rich was coming from to the extent of their being people who are entirely non-climbing posting a climbing forum."
Sorry, forgot to copy the original message: That little outburst was in response to Jimmy saying " I understood where Rich was coming from to the extent of their being people who are entirely non-climbing posting a climbing forum."
In reply to TonyB: Sorry I missed posting. I've had dodgy elbows for weeks now so I've been doing nothing but feel sorry for myself. They are improving slightly, but now exams are keeping me from testing them. All in all I've gone from a great start to the year to feeling totally demoralised and with little ability to push myself on trad, and no chance of pushing myself on sport. I'm sure it'll pick up soon though.
In reply to TonyB:
I also read guidebooks on the loo.... I bet people will now stop asking to borrow my guidebooks...
I said I understood his point, not that I agreed with him. It is a fair arguement when you read the description of the forums that are posted in. But I also believe that anyone can post on here, because the more people, the more psyche we all get when we achieve our goals. Whatever they are, whether they are climbing, running or cycling.
People shouldn't stop posting because of Rich's comments. But at the same time Rich shouldn't get blasted for his comments.
I also read guidebooks on the loo.... I bet people will now stop asking to borrow my guidebooks...
I said I understood his point, not that I agreed with him. It is a fair arguement when you read the description of the forums that are posted in. But I also believe that anyone can post on here, because the more people, the more psyche we all get when we achieve our goals. Whatever they are, whether they are climbing, running or cycling.
People shouldn't stop posting because of Rich's comments. But at the same time Rich shouldn't get blasted for his comments.
In reply to JimmyKay: No, its a totally fair enough comment.
I post here because on the FRA they have 'todays training', which is useless. It's just a bragging session, whereas a regular weekly post tells you what people are doing.
It's not your good days that matter it's those stolen 1-2 hrs on a busy day at work which stop the rot which matter. Making the most out of a day when any training is almost impossible.
I do think though that runners have a more scheduled training in general, you can see it in many of the better climbers here that they have structure, a good training load, focus and get the benefits.
The multisport ethos of fit club is interesting but I think the general reasons for a persons successes or failures boils down to a few key points.
I post here because on the FRA they have 'todays training', which is useless. It's just a bragging session, whereas a regular weekly post tells you what people are doing.
It's not your good days that matter it's those stolen 1-2 hrs on a busy day at work which stop the rot which matter. Making the most out of a day when any training is almost impossible.
I do think though that runners have a more scheduled training in general, you can see it in many of the better climbers here that they have structure, a good training load, focus and get the benefits.
The multisport ethos of fit club is interesting but I think the general reasons for a persons successes or failures boils down to a few key points.
In reply to TonyB:
A stinker for me this week. Didn't eat before i trained, did too much bouldering (meant as a warm-up) before starting leading, and paid the price. The warm-up route - same one I do every week - was stiff and stilted. The 6a+ that I wanted to try I got a bit pumped on then completely lost my head and rest of night was all downhill. A lesson learned that even at my bumbly level if you don't prepare properly (body & mind) then don't expect to get much out of your training. Looking for an improvement tomorrow...
A stinker for me this week. Didn't eat before i trained, did too much bouldering (meant as a warm-up) before starting leading, and paid the price. The warm-up route - same one I do every week - was stiff and stilted. The 6a+ that I wanted to try I got a bit pumped on then completely lost my head and rest of night was all downhill. A lesson learned that even at my bumbly level if you don't prepare properly (body & mind) then don't expect to get much out of your training. Looking for an improvement tomorrow...
In reply to TonyB:
This week was worse, can't seee them getting better anytime soon either; exams and rain on my days off.
Mon/Tues/Thur: short session at home/resting
Wed: Bouldering at wall - V6-V8 Repeats nothing new
Fri: went to go Bouldering at wall. shut for comp, ended up doing shit loads of traverses and went on the autobelay. didnt feel like i had done enough so intense power session at home. fell off a nasty crimp somehow injuring my finger.
Sat: Rested my finger
Sun: very small comp. Finger got worse, but managed almost everything up to V6 and got the bonus hold on everything but the V8+. ended up in 2nd, should have won.
Finger is starting to feel better now, although I havent climbed on it yet.
Got exams Mon-Thur this week but hoping to get something done outdoors then.
STG (pre-midsummer)
Outside
V7
V6 O/S
HVS Lead/solo
Get somewhere other than Almscliff.
Get better at not overhanging things
Indoors
More V8+ redpoints
MTG
Outside
V8
V7 O/S
E# Lead/solo
Get somewhere other than Almscliff
Get better at slabs
This week was worse, can't seee them getting better anytime soon either; exams and rain on my days off.
Mon/Tues/Thur: short session at home/resting
Wed: Bouldering at wall - V6-V8 Repeats nothing new
Fri: went to go Bouldering at wall. shut for comp, ended up doing shit loads of traverses and went on the autobelay. didnt feel like i had done enough so intense power session at home. fell off a nasty crimp somehow injuring my finger.
Sat: Rested my finger
Sun: very small comp. Finger got worse, but managed almost everything up to V6 and got the bonus hold on everything but the V8+. ended up in 2nd, should have won.
Finger is starting to feel better now, although I havent climbed on it yet.
Got exams Mon-Thur this week but hoping to get something done outdoors then.
STG (pre-midsummer)
Outside
V7
V6 O/S
HVS Lead/solo
Get somewhere other than Almscliff.
Get better at not overhanging things
Indoors
More V8+ redpoints
MTG
Outside
V8
V7 O/S
E# Lead/solo
Get somewhere other than Almscliff
Get better at slabs
In reply to TonyB:
Yesterday marked the 2nd successful attempt of a long standing nemesis route for me. After dropping the finish of Rock Atrocity so many times previously, I finally managed to match that last hold and put the route to bed.
I put this down to the change in training and the change in attitude I have had recently. I have brought more structured warm-ups into my sessions, including taking my trainers to the crag to have a warm-up jog and stretch. Power endurance sessions on the campus boards and repeater sessions on the beastmaker - I am seeing very fast improvements on this and with my climbing in general. More structured core and antagonist training. And the most important of the lot, rest days.
I will achieve my goals this year. Everything I have listed is achievable.
M- Campus + repeaters session.
T- Rest day.
W- Warm-up then short indoor leading session.
T- Warm-up jog and then core + antagonist session.
F- Campus + Repeaters session.
S- Rest day.
S- Rest day.
Yesterday marked the 2nd successful attempt of a long standing nemesis route for me. After dropping the finish of Rock Atrocity so many times previously, I finally managed to match that last hold and put the route to bed.
I put this down to the change in training and the change in attitude I have had recently. I have brought more structured warm-ups into my sessions, including taking my trainers to the crag to have a warm-up jog and stretch. Power endurance sessions on the campus boards and repeater sessions on the beastmaker - I am seeing very fast improvements on this and with my climbing in general. More structured core and antagonist training. And the most important of the lot, rest days.
I will achieve my goals this year. Everything I have listed is achievable.
M- Campus + repeaters session.
T- Rest day.
W- Warm-up then short indoor leading session.
T- Warm-up jog and then core + antagonist session.
F- Campus + Repeaters session.
S- Rest day.
S- Rest day.
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks Tony. The dumbell work sorted me out again. it read a lot but isn't really, only takes 10-15minutes each morning. Finger is finally on the road to getting stronger, elbows feel good, shoulder is good. Happy days, time to train again, and put the big goal for this year in writing.
By July 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
By end 2011
8a
Weeks training was attempting to target some power and some anaerobic endurance.
M - Bouldering @ Castle. 2hr session to V3.
T - Bouldering, circuits and tube @ Arch. Some problems to V2. attempts at 7a+ in the tube. Worked out a good 25 move circuit on the board.
W - Routes @ Castle. 3 routes to 6a+. Packed it in early with pain in the finger. Overdone it the last 3 days.
T - rest
F - Bouldering @ Castle; Tentative attempts at V4 and creating some new problems on the Wave. 20 move crimp circuit x4.Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups.
S - 5.5km run. Bolton complex x3 (3.5kg), eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, pull ups. Never tried the complexes before. Like!
S - Bouldering @ Castle. Ticked V4 for first time in almost 2 months! Some more playing on the Wave. Crimp circuits - extended circuit with 12 harder moves at the end. 32 moves ~7a. Failing at moves 28-30 x4
Next week (i.e. this week), trying to work on some PE with some anaerobic endurance secondary. Also getting back to Malham and hope to tidy up some leftovers from the last visit around 7a/b and put some work into a project or two.
Thanks Tony. The dumbell work sorted me out again. it read a lot but isn't really, only takes 10-15minutes each morning. Finger is finally on the road to getting stronger, elbows feel good, shoulder is good. Happy days, time to train again, and put the big goal for this year in writing.
By July 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham?
By end 2011
8a
Weeks training was attempting to target some power and some anaerobic endurance.
M - Bouldering @ Castle. 2hr session to V3.
T - Bouldering, circuits and tube @ Arch. Some problems to V2. attempts at 7a+ in the tube. Worked out a good 25 move circuit on the board.
W - Routes @ Castle. 3 routes to 6a+. Packed it in early with pain in the finger. Overdone it the last 3 days.
T - rest
F - Bouldering @ Castle; Tentative attempts at V4 and creating some new problems on the Wave. 20 move crimp circuit x4.Eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, press ups.
S - 5.5km run. Bolton complex x3 (3.5kg), eccentric wrist curls, reverse wrist curls, pull ups. Never tried the complexes before. Like!
S - Bouldering @ Castle. Ticked V4 for first time in almost 2 months! Some more playing on the Wave. Crimp circuits - extended circuit with 12 harder moves at the end. 32 moves ~7a. Failing at moves 28-30 x4
Next week (i.e. this week), trying to work on some PE with some anaerobic endurance secondary. Also getting back to Malham and hope to tidy up some leftovers from the last visit around 7a/b and put some work into a project or two.
In reply to JimmyKay:
Well done Jimmy.
I can't believe you've got to the level you have without doing anything very structured. Go to it now - but obviously keep it fun too.
Well done Jimmy.
I can't believe you've got to the level you have without doing anything very structured. Go to it now - but obviously keep it fun too.
In reply to TonyB:
Not a great week but some inspiration at least which has carried through to this week, but that will have to wait.
Highlights were a day at Malham with a group including Adam Hocking and James Mchaffie. Very inspiring. Seeing Tim Emmet, Dave Pickford, Jordan + Naomi Buys and some bloke called Adam Ondra there as well was amazing.
Best bit to me was seeing Tim Emmet find 2 hands off rests on Unjustified. He was having such a fun time and i get the feeling he's like that all the time. Awesome.
I also got up a 6c+ at the wall which is the hardest route i've done since i twanged my finger.
Lowlights are not being able to get up Puddlejumper, or rose coronary or consenting even on a top rope :0(
I've made a decision about my goals, which are going to be boulder related until i go to Spain. I need to improve my technique/movement massively and i now have one weekend day free between now and then so unless i am going to unravel Comedy in a session i had better leave it ;0)
Work is hectic at the minute so climbing time is snatched and bouldering fits what i can do. I will get route fitness when i get to Spain. I know i can easily set a shunt up at my local crag using bolts from the upper buttress so i can happily plug away at that.
Roll on Spain, crags 5 mins from my house and plenty more free time.
Not a great week but some inspiration at least which has carried through to this week, but that will have to wait.
Highlights were a day at Malham with a group including Adam Hocking and James Mchaffie. Very inspiring. Seeing Tim Emmet, Dave Pickford, Jordan + Naomi Buys and some bloke called Adam Ondra there as well was amazing.
Best bit to me was seeing Tim Emmet find 2 hands off rests on Unjustified. He was having such a fun time and i get the feeling he's like that all the time. Awesome.
I also got up a 6c+ at the wall which is the hardest route i've done since i twanged my finger.
Lowlights are not being able to get up Puddlejumper, or rose coronary or consenting even on a top rope :0(
I've made a decision about my goals, which are going to be boulder related until i go to Spain. I need to improve my technique/movement massively and i now have one weekend day free between now and then so unless i am going to unravel Comedy in a session i had better leave it ;0)
Work is hectic at the minute so climbing time is snatched and bouldering fits what i can do. I will get route fitness when i get to Spain. I know i can easily set a shunt up at my local crag using bolts from the upper buttress so i can happily plug away at that.
Roll on Spain, crags 5 mins from my house and plenty more free time.
In reply to JimmyKay: Well Done! good effort
Have you seen this?
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/05/18/release-the-hounds-f7c-craig-seiriol/
Thought it might interest you. It has already had three repeats and has been confirmed at hard 7c
Have you seen this?
http://news.v12outdoor.com/2011/05/18/release-the-hounds-f7c-craig-seiriol/
Thought it might interest you. It has already had three repeats and has been confirmed at hard 7c
In reply to TonyB:
Thanks again Tony, Rest is good but makes me eat lots!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 19 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING: Strength.
3 sessions on the Beastmaker working on Max strength and max pulls doing one arm pyramids. Saw great progress through the week, showing that after a lay off of a few weeks strength comes back quickly probably was just neuromuscular gains but its good to know! Did three days of core serssions too which are improving. Example of such is that i am now doing full dish to tucks arms all the way open and these are starting to feel easy. Good session bouldering on Friday back up to V6. I have done away with volume core work as it is a bit of a waste of time and moved to holding positions which is more specific i believe. the only movements I am doing are full body movements such as Dish to tucks and complexes the rest is holds such as planche , levers, planks etc. Introduced seven minutes of planks to the sessions which hurt! AnCap sessions x 3 10 moves at limit on 45 board x 4 rest time took to climb roughly 45 seconds and repeat 4 times rest 15 minutes and repeat next set. did max 3 sets this week in each session. felt hard first day but got gradually easier.
Weekend at Ansteys/Torbryan:
Had dreams of flashing empire of the sun but got shut down on crux low down and let down by my lack of stamina on top when I have some PE back this should feel fine! Have good sequence now low down and the rest is OK. Put first clip in Devonshire Cream as I value my ankles and did this second go after some faffing on crux (not giving away beta), very nice route and stupid that the first bolt is missing! Then got on top rope on Cider Soak, truly brilliant route in an amazing position and location, just great and massively motivated and inspired to get this done! Great day!
Torbryan:
Warmed up on two 6c's really feel easy now (May Day and Boogie on Down) then tried to flash Barney Rubble but foot popped stupid! Another really nice route! Retroflashed Thread Flintstone and it felt great I have such a good sequence that I can really enjoy the moves and rock now! Bolt to bolt attempt on RH Threadbare, crux will take some work but it should go soon. Kevster is going to try and replicate the crux at the wall! Another great day and can't want to get back to Devon. Probably my favorite location at the minute!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility (definite progress with physio and complexes)
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 7.5kg eA) as part of warm up in AM
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
- Work out cirquit on 45 board to replicate cider soak!
This Weeks Goals:
LOADING: Power: 2/3 campus sessions depending on fatigue, 3 core sessions, 3 AnCap sessions this week trying to up to 4 sets. 1/2 power bouldering sessions. working on prehab for back and shoulders, and reintroduce bolton complexes. GROW SOME SKIN!
Weight: 75.3kg
Cheers
Gordon
Thanks again Tony, Rest is good but makes me eat lots!
Anyway back to logging!
Some people have signed up to view my program I might list them now :
- Catt
- Tony B
- Biscuit
- Plexiglass Nick
- AJM
- Eagle River
- Morgs
- Luke
- Jonny
Week 19 is done. I will be updating these daily and then just posting the links on here weekly as I am lazy and can not be bothered writing out the same stuff again etc. For those that are interested like the above the structure of the Dual stuff works really well and is short enough to keep a lot of variety and also I imagine is less injury prone due to to short phases and mixing it up! I have now made the decision to privatise the google doc to keep away prying eyes! If you would like to view it (happy for fellow UKCers to do so) please go to the link and then ask permission, it should make sense when you go to google docs. Sorry for the inconvenience.
So Links to program are here:
https://spreadsheets.google.com/ccc?key=0Aj5e5k_NKfZUdDFEV0VjLWEwZFIxVTUyWF...
and here:
https://spreadsheets0.google.com/ccc?key=tPgAel-QGXHakAEzemJkc6A&authke...
GOALS:
Short: end May
Outdoors: 7c RP (Bullworker or Hard Bass Religion), 7c+ poss Threadbare.
Indoors: 7b flash/onsight, V6 flash/onsight,
Medium: June
More V9's, 7b+ onsight, 8a indoors
Long term: August
Outdoor 8a (Cider Soak)
Summary:
LAST WEEK:
LOADING: Strength.
3 sessions on the Beastmaker working on Max strength and max pulls doing one arm pyramids. Saw great progress through the week, showing that after a lay off of a few weeks strength comes back quickly probably was just neuromuscular gains but its good to know! Did three days of core serssions too which are improving. Example of such is that i am now doing full dish to tucks arms all the way open and these are starting to feel easy. Good session bouldering on Friday back up to V6. I have done away with volume core work as it is a bit of a waste of time and moved to holding positions which is more specific i believe. the only movements I am doing are full body movements such as Dish to tucks and complexes the rest is holds such as planche , levers, planks etc. Introduced seven minutes of planks to the sessions which hurt! AnCap sessions x 3 10 moves at limit on 45 board x 4 rest time took to climb roughly 45 seconds and repeat 4 times rest 15 minutes and repeat next set. did max 3 sets this week in each session. felt hard first day but got gradually easier.
Weekend at Ansteys/Torbryan:
Had dreams of flashing empire of the sun but got shut down on crux low down and let down by my lack of stamina on top when I have some PE back this should feel fine! Have good sequence now low down and the rest is OK. Put first clip in Devonshire Cream as I value my ankles and did this second go after some faffing on crux (not giving away beta), very nice route and stupid that the first bolt is missing! Then got on top rope on Cider Soak, truly brilliant route in an amazing position and location, just great and massively motivated and inspired to get this done! Great day!
Torbryan:
Warmed up on two 6c's really feel easy now (May Day and Boogie on Down) then tried to flash Barney Rubble but foot popped stupid! Another really nice route! Retroflashed Thread Flintstone and it felt great I have such a good sequence that I can really enjoy the moves and rock now! Bolt to bolt attempt on RH Threadbare, crux will take some work but it should go soon. Kevster is going to try and replicate the crux at the wall! Another great day and can't want to get back to Devon. Probably my favorite location at the minute!
Areas to work:
- shoulder flexibility (definite progress with physio and complexes)
- Use Complexes (Bolton complex 7.5kg eA) as part of warm up in AM
- injury prevention continue back rehab/prehab
- Being morte disciplined and rest when I have to rest!
- Red point tactics (its all about the one route dont get distracted)
- Employ running before RP.
- Manage arousal levels.
- Be careful over training on rings manage recovery.
- Clip qicker and at good positions make two clips at once, move quicker.
- Clip and move hand in one action.
- Use visualisation more to memorise project routes.
- Don't expect everything to come together so fast (be patient).
- Sort out back and do prehab to sort out Rhomboid and subscapular imbalance.
- Do physio religiously no slacking!!
- Work out cirquit on 45 board to replicate cider soak!
This Weeks Goals:
LOADING: Power: 2/3 campus sessions depending on fatigue, 3 core sessions, 3 AnCap sessions this week trying to up to 4 sets. 1/2 power bouldering sessions. working on prehab for back and shoulders, and reintroduce bolton complexes. GROW SOME SKIN!
Weight: 75.3kg
Cheers
Gordon
In reply to Goonie:
A similar move now is at the wall, on the new hard greys. Yet to actually try it though, so maybe a load of tosh too.
A similar move now is at the wall, on the new hard greys. Yet to actually try it though, so maybe a load of tosh too.
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Elsewhere on the site
Loading Notifications...