UKC

NEWS: FRID NIGHT VID: Croft and Lisa Rands on the Incredible Hulk

New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
 UKC News 20 May 2011
The Incredible Hulk, 4 kbTom Briggs introduces this video.

"This film shows Lisa Rands, one of the most accomplished boulderers in the US, and crack legend, Peter Croft, repeating his and Dave Nettle's 2004 Alpine rock route on the Incredible Hulk, Venturi Effect (5.12+).

Croft describes the Hulk as the best Alpine face in California's High Sierra and the crux pitch of Venturi Effect as the best stemming pitch he has done anywhere."

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62214

In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant; thanks. Doesn't Peter C seem like a nice guy (and LR too for that matter)?

jcm
 tasmat 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: wow! That's really inspiring stuff!
 Wee Davie 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Great wee film. Peter Croft comes across as a really sound guy.
 Jonathan Emett 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:
great film. "C'mown, bebe" - I'm going to use that line on reticent clips from now on
 James Oswald 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Amazing!
Is it me or does the quality of online videos get better and better?
silo 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Dam you! That's another place added to my wish list.
 AlexxelA 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Wow, really inspiring.
 LaMentalist 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wonderful video ,captured the essence of it all beautifully , including vulnerabilities , strengths & fears . Fantastic .
 Adam Long 21 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant stuff, definitely a place I've got to get to one day.

Funnily enough I met Dave Nettle last month without knowing who he was. I could tell he was someone though, he had that look about him...
 TobyA 23 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: Didn't Lisa Rands do a number of rather hard grit
routes some years back? I was pretty certain she had climbed E8 in the UK. The bouldering she was doing in the film looked about E5!

Years back we had a great thread on here of World Classics for the E1/E2 climber, started by someone who had just come home from Lofoten after successfully doing Vestpillaren. Primrose Dihedrals was on that list and I've had it on my 'realistically possible dream routes' list ever since. Looks a great place!
 GDes 23 May 2011
We climbed at the Hulk last summer, and it's a magical spot. Positive vibrations and Sunspot Dihdedral are stunning. Just remember to carry your waterproofs, storms pretty hard sometimes.
 Robert Durran 23 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:
> Years back we had a great thread on here of World Classics for the E1/E2 climber, started by someone who had just come home from Lofoten after successfully doing Vestpillaren. Primrose Dihedrals was on that list and I've had it on my 'realistically possible dream routes' list ever since. Looks a great place!

I think you'll find that Primrose Dihedrals is nowhere near E1/E2 nor anywhere near The Hulk!

I think I'll put Positive Vibrations on my dream world classics list though. A number of years ago I walked up to the Hulk (can't remember what route we had in mind) but we couldn't cross the snowmelt river down below it so had to retreat - maybe walked up the wrong side of it.

 Wft 23 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: really enjoyed this, what a psyched and Knarly dude.
 TobyA 23 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran: Primrose, Red, what's the difference... I'm colour blind.
 Glen 23 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:

I think red dihedral is 5.10b/c, which would probably translate as E1/E2 ish with decent gear.

I agree it looks an awesome route.

...off to look at flights to San Fran....
 Robert Durran 23 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Robert Durran) Primrose, Red, what's the difference... I'm colour blind.

Ah, sorry! Should have looked at the topo - looks awesome! Another one for the list......

 TobyA 23 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

> Ah, sorry!

No, no, you were right. I was just mixing up names in my memory. Primrose Dihedral is the one that Airlie Anderson famously had a hard time on on national TV isn't it? On a big desert tower? So presumably a state or two away from California!
 Robert Durran 23 May 2011
In reply to TobyA:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> [...]
>
> No, no, you were right. I was just mixing up names in my memory. Primrose Dihedral is the one that Airlie Anderson famously had a hard time on on national TV isn't it? On a big desert tower? So presumably a state or two away from California!

Yes, on the Moses tower near Canyonlands in Utah. About gnarly E4 or so I believe.

 jon 23 May 2011
In reply to Robert Durran:

Hi Rob, we went up to the Hulk a couple of years back to do Positive Vibes. Did Red Dihedral first as a warm up. Very disappointed by a) its quality, despite the huge build up to it and b) and far more importantly, its difficulty, (just the dihedral pitch - the rest was rather moderate) which was such that we just packed up and went down the next day, persuaded that we wouldn't stand a chance on PV. Obviously regretted my stupid impulsive decision ever since! So it's still on the list...

I have done Primrose though and would agree more or less with your assessment.
 Michael Ryan 23 May 2011
In reply to Adam Long:
> (In reply to UKC News)

> Funnily enough I met Dave Nettle last month without knowing who he was. I could tell he was someone though, he had that look about him...

Proper Leg-End that Nettle!

 TobyA 23 May 2011
In reply to jon: So it's really not so good then? Would that be comparing it to routes just of its grades or to those much harder as well?
 Robert Durran 23 May 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to Robert Durran)
>
> Hi Rob, we went up to the Hulk a couple of years back to do Positive Vibes. Did Red Dihedral first as a warm up. Very disappointed.

Thanks. Shall take it off the list then...... Sounds worth a visit for Positive Vibes though!

> I have done Primrose though and would agree more or less with your assessment.

I've not done it. I was just going on hearsay! It is on the list though....

 jon 23 May 2011
In reply to TobyA and Rob:

There are a couple of moderate lead-in pitches then a very sustained (and admittedly very good) long corner with a strenuous finish - this is the Red Dihedral. After that, it's all pretty moderate (apart from a short splitter crack) and the rock quality not great. Once on the ridge, I thought it was quite scrappy, with a thrutchy squeeze 'caving' exit. I guess on the whole what I'm trying to say is that it's very unbalanced and not at all what I was expecting from a very hyped up reputation. It's obvious to me that Positive Vibes is THE route of its grade in the Sierras... Totally brilliant place though.
 Michael Ryan 23 May 2011
In reply to jon:
> (In reply to TobyA and Rob)
>
> not at all what I was expecting from a very hyped up reputation.

Where was Red Dihedral 'hyped up' Jon. A guidebook? If so which one? Word of mouth?

 jon 23 May 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC:

I really wish I hadn't said anything now...! In Peter Croft's Good Great and Awesome and also in the Supertopo topo (I think). But mainly all over the internet when I was searching for more info for our trip, I constantly came across praise for it. Compared to other 'classics' I've done in the Sierras, I felt it just didn't have the quality. Charlotte Dome S Face, for instance, just knocks it for six. Maybe I was just expecting too much...
 lummox 23 May 2011
In reply to UKC News: what a lovely film !
 Enty 23 May 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wonderful video!

Peter Croft - Astroman Soloist - legend!!!

E
 TobyA 23 May 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC: It is very well known I think. I've heard it called a "world classic" a few times. You used to be able to get a very good Supertopo topo free for it and it is "classic climb" or something in this months Rock and Ice (although its mainly about the writer wearing fancy dress for some silly reason).
New Topic
This topic has been archived, and won't accept reply postings.
Loading Notifications...