UKC

Best Sport Crag in the UK

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 AndyWatt83 26 May 2011
Where is it?
 Al Evans 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn: Unless you are a superstar its Portland.
 Lord_ash2000 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn: IT does not matter, you don't climb hard enough to use any of them
In reply to Lord_ash2000:
> (In reply to TonyThePrawn) IT does not matter, you don't climb hard enough to use any of them

A bit harsh. He climbs F6b there are hundreds of routes below that grade at Portland. Living in Aberdeen may prove more of a hurdle.

Al
 Bulls Crack 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

Choose from:

Portland
Malham
Kilnsey
Pen trwyn
Chapel head Scar
OP AndyWatt83 26 May 2011
In reply to Lord_ash2000: Ha! Brutal eh!
 La benya 26 May 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Portland isn't really a crag is it? Which bit of Portland?

I love the place and have my fav crags but I don't think any single one has enough of everything to make it the best.
OP AndyWatt83 26 May 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack:

Cheers, few sessions on a fingerboard and I'll be 'good enough' for some of those then!

'preciate the advice.

 Richard Hall 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn: Without doubt Cheddar is the nest sport crag in the UK.
 Pekkie 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

In terms of quality, I would say Malham. In terms of quantity across the grades and with many good routes, I would say Portland.
 Andy Farnell 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn: Above 7a its either Malham or Kilnsey. Below 7a you should go trad climbing instead.

Andy F
 Bulls Crack 26 May 2011
In reply to mark_wellin:

I wouldn't get hung-up about which buttress is separate from which. From a climbing utility point of view it's one crag to me just about!
 DrGav 26 May 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

Agree that cheddar has great sport routes. And complements Portland very well for a contrasting limestone style. Below 7a cheddar might run out of options after a while... but that's surely good incentive to start working 7as in a very accessible environment
 Al Evans 26 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell:
> (In reply to TonyThePrawn) Above 7a its either Malham or Kilnsey. Below 7a you should go trad climbing instead.
>
> Andy F

Actually Andy that is probably sound advice.
 Kemics 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

Torbryan Quarry :P

It's tiny, but in terms of stars per route on average, it's a stellar venue.
 tom290483 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

Horseshoe Quarry of course........

 Tiberius 26 May 2011
In reply to tom290483:

> Horseshoe Quarry of course........

It's 'best' if you climb 6b ish

Malham is impressive, agree not much good if you can't climb 7a....actually I'd say 7b.
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

No ones mentioned Harpur Hill or Slaley Brook!
 remus Global Crag Moderator 26 May 2011
In reply to Tiberius:
> (In reply to tom290483)
>
> [...]
>
> It's 'best' if you climb 6b ish

I hope not! never have i been to a less inspiring place.

 Sean Kelly 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn: Castle Inn Quarry is OK in the lower sport grades and you can belay from the car!
In reply to Kemics: good point...
 gazhbo 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

Anstey's
 mloskot 26 May 2011
In reply to Sean Kelly:
> (In reply to TonyThePrawn) Castle Inn Quarry is OK in the lower sport
> grades and you can belay from the car!

Sounds very helpful, especially if the weather is crap
 richardh 26 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell:

Andy, behave.

there's plenty of good venues for sport below 7a. Portland is class for sub-7a action.
 Bulls Crack 26 May 2011
In reply to Sean Kelly:

Are you putting it forward as the best sports crag in the UK?

Sort of sums it up really...I'm off to Spain
 richardh 26 May 2011
In reply to Tiberius:

I think Malham 7a's are good grounding for the rest of it, but probably not UK 7a classic. I'd meet you halfway on that opinion - hit 7a+ at Malham and you're into real quality. Appetite, Yosemite Wall, Against the Grain, Free and Even Easier, Something Stupid ( ahem ), Frankenstein, Last Waltz.
 richardh 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

totally depends on what level you're climbing, no single venue will match "best" for all

harder stuff - Malham, Kilnsey, Pen Trwyn, Chapel Head out of the places I've been

easier stuff - Portland stands out a mile.
 Stuart S 26 May 2011
In reply to TonyThePrawn:

Surely you don't think it gets better than Boltsheugh???
 Andy Farnell 26 May 2011
In reply to richardh: I meant that UK sport is best above 7a, below that (in general, there are exceptions) the best UK climbing is Trad.

Andy F
 richardh 26 May 2011
In reply to andy farnell:

ah, I see, makes more sense put that way, would probably agree.
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