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There is often the feeling that us British climbers are lagging behind in world sport climbing achievements. Is that really the case?
Read these ticklists of a few young climbers after their recent holiday to Spain and you may find hope...
Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62419
In reply to UKC News:
Impressive!
I wonder how much having a world-class training facility at Ratho has contributed to these climbers reaching such a high level?
Impressive!
I wonder how much having a world-class training facility at Ratho has contributed to these climbers reaching such a high level?
In reply to Brendan: I think it's got to help, I wish I had somethign like that to train on. Maybe there should be a move away from crappy little walls for kids birthday parties and more huge steep comp walls?
Anyway, good effort to all the young guns tearing it up.
Anyway, good effort to all the young guns tearing it up.
In reply to UKC News:
In reply to Brendan:
Having a world class wall to train on is great and certainly gives an added advantage to training and certainly to motivation, however, in my opinion its mostly down to top class coaches who looked out for the kids when they were younger, nurtured the obviously motivated ones and set them in the right path, providing them with as many opportunities to excel and experience all of what climbing has to offer!
For myself, I certainly would not be the climber I am today without the coaches and mentors over the years who inspired and motivated me. I do believe that without the world class training venue, as long as there is motivated kids and inspiring individuals who set the path for them, then we shall see young climbers excel to dizzying heights! Natalie Berry was already a World Class Youth Climber before Ratho came along, she trained at Glasgow Climbing Centre 4 days a week for many years before moving to Edinburgh last year.
Myself and Ross Kirkland are the only ones out of that group who have benefited from Ratho solely, but if we still had the same motivated coaches and individuals inspiring us as we have had at ratho for years and years, and instead of ratho, all we had was a little bouldering wall, is it so hard to believe that we may be climbing at the same level or similar? It certainly hasn't harmed many of the worlds top climbers e.g. Patxi Usobiaga - check out progression to see the wall he trains at, Maja Vidmar also trains on a little 45 degree training board in a wall not much bigger than my living room, and of course our national hero, Malcolm Smith : P
I don't think its always down to the facility (though It does help), its what you do with what you've got and your motivation to keep pushing yourself!
maybe? : P
In reply to Brendan:
Having a world class wall to train on is great and certainly gives an added advantage to training and certainly to motivation, however, in my opinion its mostly down to top class coaches who looked out for the kids when they were younger, nurtured the obviously motivated ones and set them in the right path, providing them with as many opportunities to excel and experience all of what climbing has to offer!
For myself, I certainly would not be the climber I am today without the coaches and mentors over the years who inspired and motivated me. I do believe that without the world class training venue, as long as there is motivated kids and inspiring individuals who set the path for them, then we shall see young climbers excel to dizzying heights! Natalie Berry was already a World Class Youth Climber before Ratho came along, she trained at Glasgow Climbing Centre 4 days a week for many years before moving to Edinburgh last year.
Myself and Ross Kirkland are the only ones out of that group who have benefited from Ratho solely, but if we still had the same motivated coaches and individuals inspiring us as we have had at ratho for years and years, and instead of ratho, all we had was a little bouldering wall, is it so hard to believe that we may be climbing at the same level or similar? It certainly hasn't harmed many of the worlds top climbers e.g. Patxi Usobiaga - check out progression to see the wall he trains at, Maja Vidmar also trains on a little 45 degree training board in a wall not much bigger than my living room, and of course our national hero, Malcolm Smith : P
I don't think its always down to the facility (though It does help), its what you do with what you've got and your motivation to keep pushing yourself!
maybe? : P
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
I'm sure you're right!
Good effort climbing Kallea Borroka by the way, it looks immense.
I'm sure you're right!
Good effort climbing Kallea Borroka by the way, it looks immense.
In reply to UKC News:
Yeah whatever.
But who's athletes are these kids? I really don't want to have to read the whole article to find the important information.
>
> Read these ticklists of a few young climbers after their recent holiday to Spain and you may find hope...
> Read these ticklists of a few young climbers after their recent holiday to Spain and you may find hope...
Yeah whatever.
But who's athletes are these kids? I really don't want to have to read the whole article to find the important information.
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
Robbie, you didn't even manage an 8c.
How on earth do you expect me to take your bouldering tips seriously?
I mean, if I had somewhere as good as Ratho to train.....
Robbie, you didn't even manage an 8c.
How on earth do you expect me to take your bouldering tips seriously?
I mean, if I had somewhere as good as Ratho to train.....
In reply to UKC News: It is entirely down to training at Ratho once a week that they manage it. I don't train there as I like to give the rock a chance. Once I accidentally had a muffin from the cafe and climbed 7c+ later that day, I had to have a quiet sit down before I could resume falling off my usual 6b.
In all seriousness a lot of talent and dedication went into this article.
In all seriousness a lot of talent and dedication went into this article.
In reply to UKC News:
Great effort guys and gals!
But frankly I don't give a toss whether Brits are better than Germans or Japanese at sport climbing, and the last thing I need is a knight in shining armour to defend my honour simply because I happen to have the same passport. One thing I've always loved about climbing is that it's about the individual achievement, and not the daft nationalist substitute for war that e.g. football is.
Great effort guys and gals!
But frankly I don't give a toss whether Brits are better than Germans or Japanese at sport climbing, and the last thing I need is a knight in shining armour to defend my honour simply because I happen to have the same passport. One thing I've always loved about climbing is that it's about the individual achievement, and not the daft nationalist substitute for war that e.g. football is.
In reply to gritstoner:
Very true. Rather off topic, but I wish the Olympics would chuck out all the silly team sports and do away with nationalism and medal tables altogether.
Played and supported in the right spirit, football can be rather a good substitute for war.
> One thing I've always loved about climbing is that it's about the individual achievement, and not the daft nationalist substitute for war that e.g. football is.
Very true. Rather off topic, but I wish the Olympics would chuck out all the silly team sports and do away with nationalism and medal tables altogether.
Played and supported in the right spirit, football can be rather a good substitute for war.
In reply to gritstoner:
>"climbing is that it's about the individual achievement"
...but you gotta somehow measure if your nationally organised coaching is contributing to the kids individual achievement or holding them back. Isn't this the subtext to this article.
>"climbing is that it's about the individual achievement"
...but you gotta somehow measure if your nationally organised coaching is contributing to the kids individual achievement or holding them back. Isn't this the subtext to this article.
> top class coaches who looked out for the kids when they were younger, nurtured the obviously motivated ones and set them in the right path, providing them with as many opportunities to excel and experience all of what climbing has to offer!
>Totally agree - along with the dedication and drive of the climbers themselves to turn out 4 days a week to improve their skills.
The MCofS supported coaching sessions run by Neil McGeachy this Easter at Siurana were a brilliant introduction for many youngsters (and their parents)to outdoor sports climbing.
In reply to JLS:
Absolutely, but that kind of evaluation could also take place in the back of some boffin's head. Not in this 'Hurrah, we're winning the war in Spain' format.
But then again, it is called UKClimbing.com. Maybe I should migrate to Climbing.com....
Absolutely, but that kind of evaluation could also take place in the back of some boffin's head. Not in this 'Hurrah, we're winning the war in Spain' format.
But then again, it is called UKClimbing.com. Maybe I should migrate to Climbing.com....
In reply to UKC News: What a dreadful title. It's like something from the Sun. Cheap, meaningless and inflammatory. Come on UKC you can do better than this.
Al
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
e.g. Someone climbs something in spain.
> Come on UKC you can do better than this.
>
>
e.g. Someone climbs something in spain.
In reply to graeme jackson:
>"Someone climbs something in spain."
Why single out Spain? Do you hold some sort of prejudice?
Someone sends something somewhere?
Is "sends" too emotive a word?
>"Someone climbs something in spain."
Why single out Spain? Do you hold some sort of prejudice?
Someone sends something somewhere?
Is "sends" too emotive a word?
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
Why does everyone (OK, most) on UKC have to pick apart anything that gets written.
I couldn't give a single, solitary, 'rhymes with duck' about grammar mistakes, sensationalised stories, athletes, sponsorship or how the authors opinion differs from mine.
Bottom line is we're all different and if you want something written how you'd prefer, write it yourself. Don't just whine like a little 'rhymes with witch'.
Regards
P.S. - I'm only on here because I can't watch skin flicks at work!
> (In reply to UKC News) What a dreadful title. It's like something from the Sun. Cheap, meaningless and inflammatory. Come on UKC you can do better than this.
>
> Al
>
> Al
Why does everyone (OK, most) on UKC have to pick apart anything that gets written.
I couldn't give a single, solitary, 'rhymes with duck' about grammar mistakes, sensationalised stories, athletes, sponsorship or how the authors opinion differs from mine.
Bottom line is we're all different and if you want something written how you'd prefer, write it yourself. Don't just whine like a little 'rhymes with witch'.
Regards
P.S. - I'm only on here because I can't watch skin flicks at work!
In reply to metal arms: Fine but if we all stop expressing an opinion where does that leave the Forum?
Al
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
"Spain Trashed" perhaps. (There do seem to be rather a lot of bolts in the pictures)
> (In reply to UKC News) What a dreadful title. Come on UKC you can do better than this.
"Spain Trashed" perhaps. (There do seem to be rather a lot of bolts in the pictures)
In reply to Robert Durran: It's probably a generation thing plus now that I am retired I get bored. If I could find enough people in the same position I'd be doing something useful like climbing. Talking about it is a poor substitute but better than nothing.
Al
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
It's not expressing your opinion though, it's expressing your holier than thou, pseudo-intellectual clap-trap (I couldn't think of anything that rhymed with b*llocks!).
> (In reply to metal arms) Fine but if we all stop expressing an opinion where does that leave the Forum?
>
> Al
>
> Al
It's not expressing your opinion though, it's expressing your holier than thou, pseudo-intellectual clap-trap (I couldn't think of anything that rhymed with b*llocks!).
In reply to metal arms: Is there really a need to be obnoxious. Are you incapable of having a discussion without making it personal?
Al
Al
In reply to Al Randall and Robert Durran:
Would it be hugely unprofessional of me to suggest that both of you go 'get a life' and leave me to report as best I can on some pretty cool climbing by a motivated, inspirational and seemingly happy, psyched and positive bunch of young climbers?
It probably would, so I'll just say: Thanks for the feedback guys, appreciated.
And Robert - yes - perhaps this "Junk Journalism" isn't for you. Best go get an Alpinist subscription like you suggested and quick, because if you're not careful I'm going to ban you from UKC for being so overwhelmingly negative!
More to the point though: Well done to Robbie and the rest of the guys in the report - awesome climbing, great photo. Made me want to get out to Spain right now!
Best,
Jack
Would it be hugely unprofessional of me to suggest that both of you go 'get a life' and leave me to report as best I can on some pretty cool climbing by a motivated, inspirational and seemingly happy, psyched and positive bunch of young climbers?
It probably would, so I'll just say: Thanks for the feedback guys, appreciated.
And Robert - yes - perhaps this "Junk Journalism" isn't for you. Best go get an Alpinist subscription like you suggested and quick, because if you're not careful I'm going to ban you from UKC for being so overwhelmingly negative!
More to the point though: Well done to Robbie and the rest of the guys in the report - awesome climbing, great photo. Made me want to get out to Spain right now!
Best,
Jack
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor: Yes. I think that you may be right. I apologise.
I was forgetting what my old man taught me. If you can't say anything nice don't say anything at all. Apologies to all concerned.
Al
I was forgetting what my old man taught me. If you can't say anything nice don't say anything at all. Apologies to all concerned.
Al
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
Sorry, that was me at my least obnoxious, read into that what you will! Wasn't trying to be rude, just a bit fed up with everyone picking flaws in whatever is reported.
Anyway, like Jack said, well done to all the young guns tearing it up. Double jealous as I'm at work looking at the sun outside, sat at my desk.
Chris
> (In reply to metal arms) Is there really a need to be obnoxious. Are you incapable of having a discussion without making it personal?
>
> Al
>
> Al
Sorry, that was me at my least obnoxious, read into that what you will! Wasn't trying to be rude, just a bit fed up with everyone picking flaws in whatever is reported.
Anyway, like Jack said, well done to all the young guns tearing it up. Double jealous as I'm at work looking at the sun outside, sat at my desk.
Chris
At 49 years old I'm as psyched as ever for climbing and part of my motivation and inspiration is from reading/watching both young and older climbers going for it.
And with a smile on their faces....whether it be Peter Croft, Adam Ondra, Steve McClure and this bunch of talented climbers from 'up north' (of me.
So ta..... to all.
Mick
And with a smile on their faces....whether it be Peter Croft, Adam Ondra, Steve McClure and this bunch of talented climbers from 'up north' (of me.
So ta..... to all.
Mick
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
Oh come on, its just a bit of banter! I know Robbie and some of the rest of the team and coaches from Ratho pretty well - they certainly inspire an old fart like me when they're training alongside me at Ratho anyway. Of course I'm impressed and pleased for them. I'm sure they don't need me to post some boring, bland "well done" thing. Keep on reporting the stuff. It's great. And thanks for not labelling them "Ratho Athletes" - you're learning.
> (In reply to Al Randall and Robert Durran)
>
> Would it be hugely unprofessional of me to suggest that both of you go 'get a life' and leave me to report as best I can on some pretty cool climbing by a motivated, inspirational and seemingly happy, psyched and positive bunch of young climbers?
> And Robert - yes - perhaps this "Junk Journalism" isn't for you. Best go get an Alpinist subscription like you suggested and quick, because if you're not careful I'm going to ban you from UKC for being so overwhelmingly negative!
>
> Would it be hugely unprofessional of me to suggest that both of you go 'get a life' and leave me to report as best I can on some pretty cool climbing by a motivated, inspirational and seemingly happy, psyched and positive bunch of young climbers?
> And Robert - yes - perhaps this "Junk Journalism" isn't for you. Best go get an Alpinist subscription like you suggested and quick, because if you're not careful I'm going to ban you from UKC for being so overwhelmingly negative!
Oh come on, its just a bit of banter! I know Robbie and some of the rest of the team and coaches from Ratho pretty well - they certainly inspire an old fart like me when they're training alongside me at Ratho anyway. Of course I'm impressed and pleased for them. I'm sure they don't need me to post some boring, bland "well done" thing. Keep on reporting the stuff. It's great. And thanks for not labelling them "Ratho Athletes" - you're learning.
In reply to UKC News: In all fairness I only commented on the title which I did find a little distastful but, like I said, it's probably a generation thing and I apologised but ONLY because it obviously upset a few people. I was a little surprised to be jumped on by the editorial team however. Needless to say I shall be very wary of expressing any views in future.
To Jack Gelard. Threatening to ban somebody (RD)for expressing negative views about a published article is not helpful considering some of the really offensive stuff that gets published on here.
Al
To Jack Gelard. Threatening to ban somebody (RD)for expressing negative views about a published article is not helpful considering some of the really offensive stuff that gets published on here.
Al
In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor:
To restore balance, I'd like to see a lot more articles like this, both on UKC and in the British climbing press in general. Other nation's climbing media is much more encouraging of young, up and coming climbers and I think it leads to a more positive,less bitchy atmosphere all round. In Spain, where 9a climbers are not uncommon, you'll still see someone's first 8a reported in the national mags, especially if its a teenager or a woman.
It's nice to see that some young climbers are tearing things up, and concerns about jingoism aside, articles like this should see it happening more often!
On an unrelated note, when I read robbie's tick list i was amazed. I can't imagine climbing " 7 8bs and 3 8b+s in a short Spanish holiday"; thankfully I then read his blog and realised his short holiday was nearly two months long! I thought I was getting past it!
To restore balance, I'd like to see a lot more articles like this, both on UKC and in the British climbing press in general. Other nation's climbing media is much more encouraging of young, up and coming climbers and I think it leads to a more positive,less bitchy atmosphere all round. In Spain, where 9a climbers are not uncommon, you'll still see someone's first 8a reported in the national mags, especially if its a teenager or a woman.
It's nice to see that some young climbers are tearing things up, and concerns about jingoism aside, articles like this should see it happening more often!
On an unrelated note, when I read robbie's tick list i was amazed. I can't imagine climbing " 7 8bs and 3 8b+s in a short Spanish holiday"; thankfully I then read his blog and realised his short holiday was nearly two months long! I thought I was getting past it!
In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
I did not express any negative views. I made a couple of humourous allusions to a couple of recent threads and I gently took the piss out of Robbie (which I usually do when I see him at Ratho anyway). Have we entered a nightmare text message driven age where people read everything absolutely literally unless it is accompanied by one of those awful, lazy smiley things
(That smiley, by the way, was not intended to be taken literally)
> (In reply to UKC News)> To Jack Gelard. Threatening to ban somebody (RD)for expressing negative views about a published article is not helpful.
I did not express any negative views. I made a couple of humourous allusions to a couple of recent threads and I gently took the piss out of Robbie (which I usually do when I see him at Ratho anyway). Have we entered a nightmare text message driven age where people read everything absolutely literally unless it is accompanied by one of those awful, lazy smiley things
(That smiley, by the way, was not intended to be taken literally)
In reply to UKC News: "crunch"... god, the reverse gear in these old motors can be really sticky, eh?!
In reply to Robert Durran:
I genuinely love your piss taking Robert and look forward to it on a daily basis... I don't think Ratho would be the same without it!
And I know you are disappointed I have not climbed 8c yet, but I am disappointed in you for letting me down every year when you return from yet another sport climbing trip without your 8a tick you keep promising! : P I promise I will do an 8c for you this year, its all about the mileage dude! Build it up slowly, there is no rush...
And stop complaining about comps you old fart! You have probably benefited from comps more than anyone - Ratho wouldn't have been subsidised if it wasn't for comps, hence you wouldn't have you favourite place in the world, so shut it!
Looking forward to this weeks piss taking - I'll catch you at the wall dude
PEACE
I genuinely love your piss taking Robert and look forward to it on a daily basis... I don't think Ratho would be the same without it!
And I know you are disappointed I have not climbed 8c yet, but I am disappointed in you for letting me down every year when you return from yet another sport climbing trip without your 8a tick you keep promising! : P I promise I will do an 8c for you this year, its all about the mileage dude! Build it up slowly, there is no rush...
And stop complaining about comps you old fart! You have probably benefited from comps more than anyone - Ratho wouldn't have been subsidised if it wasn't for comps, hence you wouldn't have you favourite place in the world, so shut it!
Looking forward to this weeks piss taking - I'll catch you at the wall dude
PEACE
In reply to Robert Durran:
Exactly! You both love it really. Banter goes both ways lads, so there's a bit back from me.
Hahaha!
> (In reply to Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor)
> [...]
>
> Oh come on, its just a bit of banter!
> [...]
>
> Oh come on, its just a bit of banter!
Exactly! You both love it really. Banter goes both ways lads, so there's a bit back from me.
Hahaha!
In reply to Robert Durran:
....you mean RATHOLETES?!
>
> And thanks for not labelling them "Ratho Athletes"
> And thanks for not labelling them "Ratho Athletes"
....you mean RATHOLETES?!
In reply to Robbie_Phillips:
Yeh, Yeh.... Shut it, or I shall publicly expose the scandal of your trad climbing career for what it really is.
Oh yes! I seem to remember winning a medal in my age category in the British Championships last year. Remind me again how you did?
> I am disappointed in you for letting me down every year when you return from yet another sport climbing trip without your 8a tick you keep promising!
Yeh, Yeh.... Shut it, or I shall publicly expose the scandal of your trad climbing career for what it really is.
> You have probably benefited from comps more than anyone.
Oh yes! I seem to remember winning a medal in my age category in the British Championships last year. Remind me again how you did?
In reply to midgets of the world unite: I agree,ukc keep it up with these sort of reports,its interesting and makes these young athletes achievments more transparent giving them the rightful kudos they deserve.Maybe encouraging others to commit their lives in similar ways-whatever grade they climb and maybe whatever age.
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