In reply to ChrisHolloway1:
> You say he is dishonest for not detailing his use of supplementy oxygen, why? I would have said that climbing above 8000m without oxygen is so uncommon that the assumption of any normal person would be that oxygen was used unless otherwise stated. The majority of literature I have read where oxygen hasn't been used is recorded as "<name> climbed Everest without the use of supplementry oxygen", and I am yet to read "<name> climbed Everest, with oxygen".
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> Your moan about high altitude mountaineering being a "circus" is akin to me telling someone who climbed Snowdon via the Pyg track with a mountain leader to help, that their achievement meant nothing because they didn't go via Crib Goch, alone, without a guide; needlessly demeaning an achievement. The fact is Anselm did a good job in a bad situation, and he himself was not struggling.
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> You're obviously a purist when it comes to climbing, and thats cool you are entitled to your own opinion. However don't try and force your beliefs on others by belittling their achievements.
Chris, you're failing to see the point on many things, which is turning this thread into a slagging match. There's no need for it! The majority of people attempt 8000m peaks with bottled oxygen and massive support. This is driven by guiding companies responding to the voracious appetite of an ever-increasing number of clients. These clients are in the main vastly inexperienced in high-altitude mountaineering, hence the need to employ people to sort permits, carry their bags, break trail, construct camps, outline an ascent plan, interpret weather and generally monitor clients' progress. All of what I've said so far is fact, not opinion.
Part of what Nick is getting at is the way Sherpas have been portrayed by Anselm. Climbing at its core is about dealing with situations yourself, or with the help of your partner. The problem is that many people have become so brainwashed that they believe the only way to tackle an 8000m peak is with a convoy of support (see previous post by jimmyjames1985). In turn, when that support breaks down, people are held to account. This is utterly unacceptable.
When Jon Krakauer's book, "Into Thin Air" first came out, so too did the following review:
"Given the increasing numbers attempting Everest since the relaxation of regulations limiting numbers on the mountain, a big pile-up was an accident waiting to happen and so, in a way, was this book. Despite the gruesome subject matter the writing is excellent and the story compelling, so much so that Thin Air is widely credited with starting the Everest publishing 'boom' which swept the USA during the late 90s. Krakauer blows the gaff on the Himalayan circus surrounding the 8000m peaks with his insightful analysis of the insanity of attempting to 'guide' inexperienced clients at very high altitudes, The book is a gripping account of the 1996 Everest mega wipe-out and doesn't mince words when it comes to apportioning blame. The controversy over his judgements continues unabated to this day. One thing is for sure though; you won't want to go on a commercial trip up an 8000er after reading this - unless you're a dork like that Bear Grylls bloke of course. Ironic footnote: Thin Air was in the New York Times' best-seller listings for months. Bookings on commercial 8000er trips soared after all the publicity it generated. There's a lot of them about."
Interestingly, Alpinist Newswire had this to say recently about Apa Sherpa reaching the top of Everest for the 21st time:
"While Alpinist.com does not usually report on Everest climbing records we thought that this was an important record to highlight. In the West climbing Everest once is enough to turn someone into an inspirational speaker. For Apa Sherpa summitting Everest is something he does once a year, for work."
As for your comment regarding Kenton Cool, he is in charge of a commercial outfit. Any use of oxygen by him is in order to safeguard his clients who can't look after themselves. His, and his Sherpa's rescue, of Bonita Norris last year is another clear example of clients being out of their depth on the high mountains:
"It was a huge day, not something I would want to do again," said Kenton Cool, the 36-year-old professional mountaineer whose climbing company helped Norris achieve her dream. "I do everything in my power to make sure people come back safe, but there is no such thing as a risk-free climb. I have lost an unbelievable amount of weight, my voice has almost gone, the feeling in the ends of my fingers suggest I have the early stages of frostbite. It's taken its toll on my body and it will take Bonita a little while to recover."
Regarding the "purist" comment, I don't cut corners with my climbing. I never have. I enjoy the process of discovery (self and otherwise), and if I felt I wasn't capable of tackling a particular climb - regardless of grade - without support, then I wouldn't do it; it wouldn't even enter my head to employ others to help. The fact that you see this as being "purist" is in itself revealing. I see it as simply climbing.