UKC

Yellow edge - Avon

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 Mr Lopez 10 Jun 2011
Anyone did it lately?

Wondering if anyone knows what nick the pegs and rock are in at the moment, plus any info in how 'grassy' the grassy ledge is considering the recent weather...

My ethics are as good as Mladic's, so if anyone wants to throw in some beta i'm not to fussed about spoiling the onsight.
Just that the description in the CC guide is confusing (and possibly wrong?), specially in the second pitch, where description says it follows Amanita for a bit, whereas in the topo they just cross each other.

Thanks
 Richard Hall 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez: It's fine at the mo. Pegs are not the best but there are a few and its easy. It is E3 5b after all.

I got lost on the second pitch. My description of this pitch is as follows:

Climb from the bolt belay to a knifeblade, passing an obvious scar where the block mentioned in the guide used to.

Back up peg and traverse left until it is possible to stand on the top of a miners spike (tat).

Climb the crack above (good wires) to an easing of angle and some more pegs,

Continue to loose looking rock under the roof.

Trav left and pull over the roof.

Belay on peg, nuts and rock spike.
OP Mr Lopez 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

That description is pretty much the same as in the guide, but all this

>stand on the top of a miners spike (tat).
>Climb the crack above (good wires) to an easing of angle and some more pegs,
>Continue to loose looking rock under the roof.

according to the guide is common with Amanita Muscarina, which doesn't make any sense when looking at this topo http://wikitopo.com/topoViewer.php?topoId=281 or the one in the guide (which funnily enough doesn't look anything like the one linked, nor with the route description).

Oh well, i guess getting lost in a crumbly wall is what Avon is about...
OP Mr Lopez 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

Oh! And thanks for the info...
 Richard Hall 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez: OK, I think the topo you linked is probably the least helpfull.

The one in the Rockfax West Country suggests the routes are the same between the spike and the roof. I believe this to be correct.

The topo in the CC is probably wrong in that it suggests you keep traversing after the spike.

As you say, getting lost is all part of it.....

Enjoy.
OP Mr Lopez 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

This is the CC topo (yellow dots=Amanita, red dots=Yellow edge) http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd137/senorlopez13/?action=view&curr...

So the route goes up Amanita where they cross and exits the roof around the point where i painted a green arrow? That'd be more or less what the description says (yours and CC's), but as you can see the topo is not even close.

So much for getting lost...
OP Mr Lopez 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Richard Hall:

As a side note, the line in the topo for YE seems to be pretty much the second pitch of Psychopath way (E6 6B), so got my good reason to try and not end up that way...
 lowersharpnose 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

I think the tip of your green arrow does point to where the belay is. IIRC, you climb to it from below - as opposed to along the direction of your arrow. It is fairly obvious when you are there.

I thought the trickiest bit of pitch two was leaving the belay. It's a great airy pitch - as is the third.
 Ian Parsons 10 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Hi there

The CC topo is correct, but easy to misread - the traverse left from the Amanita line is just below your green arrow, and is apparent as a short dotted line if you squint hard enough; your line of red dots actually follows the lower traverse from Amanita of Hammer Horror (18) and continues into Psychopath Way (17). Hammer Horror and Yellow Edge pull through the bulge at the same place. Hope this is clearer than it sounds!
OP Mr Lopez 11 Jun 2011
In reply to Ian Parsons:

Aaaaah... I can see it now. I didn't notice the dotted line going through the overhangs before. I can see it in the photo i took of the guidebook if i zoom it, but i still can't barely see it in the guidebook itself.

It all makes sense now. Good thing i posted here first...

Thanks all!
 flaneur 13 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

It all seems to make sense when the rock is there in front of you - it's the line of least resistance. Have fun.
 nniff 13 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

I got rained off from the second stance, but didn't have any trouble route finding up to then.
 Sheffield Sam 13 Jun 2011
It may be worth giving it a miss if another team is on Amanita or at least not gearing up at right at the bottom of the route, when I followed Dan up Amanita I accidently sent a couple of foot holds off down the route, just a word of warning! Pretty awesome wall never the less, when I got to the top of Amanita I was so pumped I struggled to climb over the fence at the top!

Give me a shout if you want somebody to follow you up it...
 HappyTrundler 16 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

I've done it a few times over the years...here is a top tip...the thin leftward traverse on pitch two can be protected by a small thread, just make sure you take a very thin tape with you to thread the pennysize hole it goes through...great route all the way....

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