UKC

NEWS: MacLeod and Turner Top Out Hoy Mega Route

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 UKC News 22 Jun 2011
Dave MacLeod and Hoy, 4 kbDave MacLeod succeeds on his Hoy 'mega project'.

The largest vertical sea cliff in the UK now boasts one of the country's hardest adventure routes.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62760

 gingerwolf 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Wahey!! Good effort Dave!! Nice to see he's completed it!
I saw an interview with Dave discussing the route on Hotaches's facebook!
 john arran 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Just a small clarification, Dave and I didn't take "a logical alternative to the headwall", since the whole point of the Long Hope Route was to climb the headwall. What we did was to find an alternative line up the headwall which was more suited to free climbing, the knife-blade crack that Drummond aided up being obviously ridiculous to climb free. So we diverged from the aid line for a pitch or two before rejoining it before the top. Dave has now proved that even the ridiculous is free climbable if you're talented enough!
 Jack Geldard 22 Jun 2011
In reply to john arran: Thanks John, now edited.

Great effort by yourself and what a super looking headwall - go Dave!

Jack
 EBclimbing 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Nice work!
 CragRat11 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Congrats Dave and Andy, well done Hot Aches Matt Pycroft and Lukasz!
Looks ace, can't wait for the footage.
 Fraser 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Immense effort - well done and congratulations to the whole team!
 ianslade 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: I was lucky enough to see Dave's lecture in Manchester, where he talked in detail about the route. An amazing achievement, well done Dave. It begs the question... what's next?
 Michael Ryan 22 Jun 2011
 Nick Harvey 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Dave's blog has been updated.
 steev 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Sweet holy heck.

I'm so impressed with the way Dave manages to find these mind-blowing world-class challenges without leaving the UK. I want him as our next First Minister for Scotland
andy kirkpatrick 22 Jun 2011
Even a baby couldn't hold him back! Well done Dave and Andy.
 hcooper 22 Jun 2011
Well done! Excellent achievement.

However I wish people would stop using old pictures of Dave with long hair. He looks far more awesome with the short hair he's been sporting for some years!
In reply to UKC News: Congratualtions Dave, another stunning project complete. Great respect to the previous ascentionists also!
 Jonny Tee 69 22 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Brilliant, must've been quite an experience!
 Drexciyan 23 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Wow, looks amazing, particularly the fulmar puke ledge!
 Scarab 23 Jun 2011
this must be one of the harder non bolt multipitches out there,
 mloskot 23 Jun 2011
Fantastic cliff and equally fantastic effort Dave!

I'm curious if it is possible to receive a few details regarding protection. The article says it's soft sandstone. I'm curious what gear was used and in any insights on that.
 James Oswald 23 Jun 2011
In reply to mloskot:
I went to a talk of his in Manchester a few weeks ago. He mentioned that for much of the lower pitches falling off was "not an option" due to ledges and looseness. He didn't mention anything about the protection on the hardest pitch though IIRC.
 Ramblin dave 23 Jun 2011
In reply to mloskot:

> I'm curious if it is possible to receive a few details regarding protection. The article says it's soft sandstone. I'm curious what gear was used and in any insights on that.

You mean, did they use a long sling for the belays and make sure the karabiner was well over the edge to avoid moving ropes damaging the rock?
 Reach>Talent 23 Jun 2011
In reply to Ramblin dave:
You mean, did they use a long sling for the belays and make sure the karabiner was well over the edge to avoid moving ropes damaging the rock?

...or did he place all of that large rack of cams he took safe in the knowledge that no-one could see him?

 Mark Bull 23 Jun 2011
In reply to Scarab:

> this must be one of the harder non bolt multipitches out there,

Easily the hardest in the UK: previous contender was Dave and Tim Emmett's route on Strone Ulladale (Usual Suspects at E9 7a). Worldwide, I guess some of the routes on El Cap are of a similar difficulty (F8b+ ~= 5.14a) though they probably have a fair bit of fixed gear.
 Carless 23 Jun 2011
In reply to mloskot:

Seems it depends very much on which part of St John's Head you climb on

Big John was mostly on solid rock with good gear.
I seem to remember we pulled off very few holds in 450m, whereas I think Testament is on looser ground
 Nick Harvey 23 Jun 2011
In reply to Mark Bull:
I guess they may be more sustained? but with easiest access and far less fickle weather. And no bird puke.
 Mr Lopez 23 Jun 2011
In reply to Carless:

Is there a topo for that? Couldn't find anything online, only for Testament and Longhope.
 Al Evans 23 Jun 2011
In reply to Carless: I think generally it's pretty sound sandstone, although our 'Original Route' was a bit of a meander up the face, the rock was pretty good apart from the lower grassy terraces.
Incidently if you look at my photo at the head of the article, I think there are still some big adventures to be had on the crags to the right of SJH.
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort Dave and Andy, I'm impressed and hopefully this will inspire a few others to get up there. The free version of Ed and Oliver's original line is clearly well out of the reach of mortals but I've always felt a 1 day on sight ascent of the version John and I did is a realistic prospect.
 henwardian 23 Jun 2011
Great work Dave! I'm impressed, the line looks absolutely amazing! It's awesome to have such a huge number of photos and fun to see on the recent photos exactly where the route goes and how that awesome picture in North Highlands North fits in.
Too bad I will never be strong enough or bold enough to attempt it

In reply to Nick Harvey:
> (In reply comments about el cap)
> I guess they may be more sustained? but with easiest access and far less fickle weather. And no bird puke.

And they are twice as long and on completely solid rock and feature a lot of hard jamming rather than hard face. Infact it's pretty hard to compare the two imho.


As far as rock quality is concerned, I thought I had read an article in a climbing mag by John Aaron with said something along the lines of "...was encouraging me but I was unsure about the holding power of small cams in sandy breaks, a few moments later I was off, taking a long swinging fall and ripping the cams out..." which would suggest the rock on at least some of the hard ground on long hope is crappy. Read it ages ago though, so my memory is hazy.
 john arran 23 Jun 2011
In reply to henwardian:

That sounds like it may have been Dave's spectacular fall from the 'high heels traverse', which is the short pitch that got us back on the original line after our headwall variation. I suspect the cams ripping may have had as much to do with them being placed in a hurry than any real rock quality issues, although the rock at that point is certainly not beyond reproach. The rock on the headwall generally isn't that bad though, and most of the gear has a pretty good chance of holding.

The really bad rock is near the bottom, where the route climbs overhanging sand to the right of the grassy slab. I recall excavating cam placements in the sand more to placate Dave while belaying than to offer any real hope of holding a fall!
 Carless 24 Jun 2011
In reply to Mr Lopez:

Did draw a topo on a copy of the LongHope topo that Oliver Hill sent Mick 25 years ago, but have since stupidly lost it

Have a look at http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=361370 and maybe email "Brown" for more info - he's done it a lot more recently than me

Email me via here if you want more info
 airborne 25 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Apologies for the shameless plug... Paul Diffley intends to premiere the film of the ascent at this year's Kendal Mountain Festival, 17-20 November. Dave MacLeod, Andy Turner and team hopefully all in attendance. More Festival programme news out soon.
planetFear 12 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: Exclusive video on planetFear here - http://tinyurl.com/6avsnkj

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