UKC

VIDEO: Adam Hocking - New Lake District E8

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 UKC News 30 Jun 2011
Adam Hocking top roping the very bold 'The Ego Has Landed' prior to his lead, 4 kbAdam Hocking has bagged the first ascent of The Keswickian (E8 7a) on Gouther Crag in Swindale.

He also made the second ascent of The Ego Has Landed (E8 6b) on Eagle Crag, Langstrath.

Both ascents are captured here on video.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=62860

 Benrob 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: my mates mums dads brothers parrots daughters neighbour, Callum did "ego" a few days ago and said it felt more like E6 than E8.








*RATTLE*
Removed User 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Another one of those vids that make you feel sick watching. Superb effort, having stood under it, The Keswickian is one hell of a line.
 GrahamD 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Not wrong about Gouther Crag - some brilliant stuff there.
 Rob15 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Good to see Gouther getting a bit of attention, I know a few people who've talked about doing that line, looks terrifying.
 The Pylon King 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Looks great.

He should have untied after the crux!

Terrible music
In reply to UKC News:

A bit sweaty palmed there watching the section just after the roof!

Nice music, much better than the techno c**p that normally accompanies such videos.

ALC
 Lord_ash2000 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Good effort Hock.
 xican 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: superproudline, also the off key music was fantastic
 Simmy 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

One Step Beyond is now E4 I think.

Great climbing ace to see Gouther get a mention and also always great to see the Lakes get another Hard route.
 Quarryboy 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Pre placed gear :/
 Niall Grimes 30 Jun 2011
Nice vids. The ropedrag on The Keswickian was very 'lifelike'
 biscuit 30 Jun 2011
In reply to Quarryboy:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Pre placed gear :/

I don't think it matters much the rps were at a rest point and the 2nd bit could have been placed from the ledge. The gear was most certainly not the crux of the route. Leader's choice anyway.

To see Hock shaking like a sh1tting dog on the Keswickian made my hands go sweaty, it must be nails !

Talking of dogs my claim to fame is that Mike's dog is my dogs dad ;0)

Amazing stuff Hock, keep up the inspiration
 metal arms 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Crackin' video
 Glyn 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News: Nice one Adam!
 royal 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Great vid, routes look really good.
 Stuart Wood 30 Jun 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Really enjoyed that! Good to see Adam on top form again... great climber.

In Reply to Ben Rob
Learn to get up E1's before commenting on routes you know bugger all about.

Woody
 simes303 01 Jul 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber:

It's a shame you don't appreciate techno.
In reply to simes303:

I appreciate *music*

I didn't check who the music was by on the video but it would be good if it was a local band.

ALC
 mark catcher 01 Jul 2011
In reply to Woody: Well said Woody, same goes for the pre-placed gear comment too. Clown. Great to see the Lakes getting more coverage.
 Ben Stokes Global Crag Moderator 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Great effort. Named after the chip shop per chance?
In reply to Quarryboy:

"Pre placed gear :/"

If its such a problem go for the third ascent and place your own!

 GrahamD 01 Jul 2011
In reply to Alroy:

Its a reasonable question for us bumblies to ask because we generally don't do it: why is pre-placed gear used ? how much physical and phschological difference has it made ?
In reply to GrahamD:

Varies - sometimes it's because placing the gear is very precarious - in the old days a peg would probably have been used. In this instance it seems that the gear could be placed from reasonable stances so it was almost irrelevant how/when it was placed, the lower gear could of course have been in place from a previous attempt.

ALC
 Bulls Crack 01 Jul 2011
In reply to Removed User:
> (In reply to UKC News)
>
> Another one of those vids that make you feel sick watching. Superb effort, having stood under it, The Keswickian is one hell of a line.

Scary indeed - he must hate wearing a helmet
 Jon Ratcliffe 01 Jul 2011
In reply to Bulls Crack: No, I think he simply chooses not to wear one just like he chose to lead a scary route. Effort Hock!
 JMarkW 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Wow that was really good, brill bit with the rope drag and the shakes.

ditch them grey pants for the vids though I reckon

nice one

cheers
mark
In reply to Mark Westerman:

Grey? I thought they were brown! Either that or my eyesight is going

ALC
 Agua-Moose 01 Jul 2011
In reply to a lakeland climber:

Grey, Brown, Green, whatever.... they look like comfortable climbing trousers to me. Anyone know what brand and model they are?

Oh, some quality climbing round that roof bit. About 8 Es to hard for my liking though.
 danm 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Great to see some hard climbing in the Lakes on video. I got quite worried for Adam watching that - the rope drag on something that hard looked well grim, but made it look much more real than on the more manufactured climbing films we get used to.
 dan ely 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:
GO ADAM!!
proud of ya mate you cruchin monster
 Franco Cookson 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Excellent. Looks like a good line and nice name. Rope drag looked like it could have been terminal too....
In reply to GrahamD: I am sure the chap has his own reasons for pre placed gear (aka trying to place wires with one hand whislt on a small pinch/grimp cant be easy). I just think its abit off-hand and idiotic to put "pre place gear :/."
 Conor1 01 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:
Thought the music was excellent; really fitting for a scary route. Intense, dark, unpredictable - perfect really. Great choice. Just a shame the filming couldn't match the climbing and music - would have been great to have had a camera above the climber, getting glimpses of facial expressions and fingers on holds etc.
 PeteH 01 Jul 2011
Anyone know how the original ascent of The Ego was done? I.e. was it with pre-placed gear?

Excellent work on the Keswickian - amazing line and looks like an awesome sequence.

Pete.
 Stuart Wood 02 Jul 2011
In reply to PeteH:

original ascent.... top roped three times then led with peg clipped on the way. Only protection used was the peg.

All three ascents are a great acheievment....... It would take someone with rather large balls to onsight that one.

Woody
 Adam Hocking 02 Jul 2011
In reply to PeteH: I left the gear in as i just wanted to get it done and did not want to go back up on a top rope. It is in an easy spot to place on lead, guess it was a little lazy. Caff just had the peg, but when i clipped the peg it fell out, after the lead i went down on put a better one in. Great route by Caff and a good lead from young callum.
 GrahamD 04 Jul 2011
In reply to Adam Hocking:

Cheers. It is genuinely interesting to hear what the thought processes are on this sort of ascent.
 armus 04 Jul 2011
In reply to Benrob:
> (In reply to UKC News) my mates mums dads brothers parrots daughters neighbour, Callum did "ego" a few days ago and said it felt more like E6 than E8.

>> Missed the point of that post.






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In reply to Adam Hocking:
> (In reply to PeteH) when i clipped the peg it fell out, after the lead i went down on put a better one in.

Cheers mate, nice shiner it was too
 Simmy 05 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News:

Blimey congrats on the New E7 at cam also !

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