UKC

Hi,

I'm going to the Ecrins in 6 weeks and was wondering if anyone can advise what guidebooks are best for single and multi-pitch rock routes in the area?

We're staying in Les Vigneaux, and our accommodation has kindly offered to post us one of the local guides in advance. We just don't know which one...

Thanks!
Kevin

In reply to MrFlibble: The Alpine Club "Brailsford book of death"! Route descriptions can be a little "off" shall we say.

In reply to Phil Sneyd:

I remember the classic line "Climb a rounded whales back for 300m"

As a general pure rock guide to the area, you could do worse than get hold of the 'escalade en Brianconnais, Haut Val Durance, Queyras'. Green cover. Gives a wide range of climbs in different areas. No proper 'mountain' routes but if all you're after is valley based single and multipitch (mainly) sport climbing then the book is fairly good. Explanations aren't great, but if you're only able to get one book to do the whole area, then its probably the best.

For mountain routes or an english guide then the Brailsford is fairly definitive even with its occasionally dodgy descriptions!

In reply to MrFlibble:

These are the obvious guides that you'll need and you'll probably get away with just having the first two from the following:

"Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage" (Livre Est)- Jean-Michel Cambon. Covers the Ailefroide area and is available locally. A very good guide despite some eccentricity.

"Grimper dans le Haut-Val Durance" - Yann/ Martine/ Rolland. A very good guide which covers all single and multi-pitch limestone climbing in the Durance valley and surrounding area as well as some of the Ailefroide granite areas. Available locally.

"Les plus belles escaldes calcaires des Hautes Alpes" - Bazet/ Giraud/ Rolland. This covers the big multi-pitch limestone routes on the Tete d'Aval and Serre Chevalier area. Again available locally.

"Ecrins Massif: Selected Climbs" - John Brailsford, published by the AC and (obviously) available here. It's still a very useful book to have for the big mountain routes although some care's needed due to the effect of climate change, compounded by dated descriptions and some errors (factual as well as of omission.)

Hope this helps and have a good trip. :¬)

Dave

In reply to MrFlibble:
The best guidebooks are:
1."Oisans nouveau, Oisans sauvage, livre Est" by Cambon. This has just been updated(June 2011) and covers multi-pitch in the area where you will be, 420 routes.
2."Escalade autour Ailefroide, 2010" this covers all the single and multi-pitch routes in the Ailefroide valley, only costs 10 euros.
3."Grimper dans le Haut-Val Durance" - Yann/ Martine/ Rolland

I would go for either 1 or 3 of the above, if you're mainly looking for multi-pitch and Alpine rock go for 1. If you're mainly going for sports single and multi-pitch go for 3.
If you want any route recommendations drop me an email.
Make sure you get onto Tete d'Aval!

In reply to MrFlibble: That's brilliant, thanks everyone