UKC

If you have led or attempted Wellington Crack,please email me.
Thanks.

Mitch

In reply to paul mitchell:

Not done it for a few years Paul, but there are plenty of ticks in the logbooks. What are you after?

In reply to paul mitchell:

I've done it twice. The first time I couldn't beleive how easy it was; on the second I couldn't believe how hard it was!

Chris

In reply to Chris Shorter: I've had 300+ views on this
thread and only 4 replies.

I suggest some of you viewers get yourselves to Ilkley and get on it.
The gear's good and it's a good warm up for London Wall.

In reply to paul mitchell:

I'm a viewer, but sadly it's about 5 grades too hard for me

In reply to paul mitchell:

I climbed it over 10 years ago now. will mail when home from work.

might try later this summer...

In reply to paul mitchell: I don't understand. What do you want to know Paul?

In reply to paul mitchell:

I fell off it thinking I could do it as a warm up. On TV. With John Dunne watching. It was quite embarrassing! I seem to remember it was quite powerful at the bottom and surprisingly tricky to get the gear in. And pumpy.

In reply to Tom Briggs:

Was that an episode of Pennine Rock?

Is it available on DVD?

Ta.

In reply to The Scarlet Pimpernel:

Yes.


I hope not

In reply to paul mitchell: Thanks Tom;at last someone prepared to admit it's proper 'ard!

Mitch

In reply to Tom Briggs:


Oh that is just brilliant! Serious kudos for 'fessing that, on here. I'd have been tempted to raid the TV archives, recall every DVD, etc, etc.

Pete was going well when he did Wellington Crack - and it took a lot of working. It's always seemed like a trap for the unwary.

I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...

Mick

In reply to paul mitchell: Now would seem to be a good time to try the route if you're looking for beta. Many of the gear and hand placements have been marked with chalk, there are lines all the way up the route pointing out the best holds and even notes written on the cliff like 'R hand' and '#2 cam'.

In reply to Alastair Lee:

Is that what they mean by 'route reading'?



I did Wellington Crack many many moons ago and all I remember is that it was good, so probably not much help to anyone.

In reply to Mick Ward:


Hmmm, I thought it was about as hard as LW. Whether that was because I thought it was going to be easy, or whether I thought LW was going to be desperate and therefore approached them in a totally different frame of mind, I've no idea.

But hell, in front of a camera...! I think you should hunt the footage down!

In reply to john arran: ha ha, good one, yeah it definitely invalidates the on sight but I'm not sure how you'd categorize an ascent in its current state (presuming ground up no pre-practice), perhaps a 'Text-point'?

In reply to Alastair Lee:

A guided ascent?

In reply to Alastair Lee: Have you put this on the UKB tickmark hall of shame thread??

In reply to Offwidth: Didn't know such a thing existed, this would be prime subject matter for said thread, although this is taking tickmarks to a new level...

In reply to Alastair Lee:

http://yorkclimbers.com/forum/topics/aving-the-crack

In reply to Toreador: That's nuts! its safe has houses!

I was thinking about having a go in the autumn if training goes to plan, but this thread hasn't done much to dispel my concerns about it being a sandbag at E4 5c! Maybe I should wait until I'm solid at E5 :P

Pete.

In reply to Toreador: hmmm.. the OP has a bit of previous with regards ridiculous chalk abuse: http://s280.photobucket.com/albums/kk163/CyLwiki/?action=view&current=I...

In reply to unclesamsauntibess: The leader is Fred Simpson - I don't think he climbs any more. He's wearing his grandfather's vest, as I recall.

In reply to Toreador:

That deserves it's own thread and hopefully people will be named and shamed.

E

In reply to Enty: If only i was in leeds at the moment, i could take advantage and actually climb wellington crack!

In reply to Enty:


I wonder if it's real or set up - there's almost no chalk in the crack...? Surely it'd be plastered.

In reply to Tom Briggs:

that was you!
i seem to recall you got up it 2nd go though so it wasn't all bad.

In reply to paul mitchell: My ticks on Wellington.Apologies for not removing them.I'll get me coat...

In reply to paul mitchell: From your own profile:

"Climbing is an art,sometimes a transcendental art.It is best performed as dance,or as near dance as you can.

If you can't do the move,then become the person who CAN do the move."

That was some art work. If you can't remember the move then maybe you should you become the person who CAN remember the move instead of writing it all over the rock.

May I strongly suggest that you refrain from such excessive graffiti in the future.
Unbelievable behavior from anyone, but from someone who has been climbing for as long as you I am (almost) lost for words.

In reply to paul mitchell:

Are you trolling?

E

In reply to paul mitchell:

At it again hey Paul? I think you have some sort of chalk vendetta... first Newstones and Ramshaw, which you seemed apologetic for (same excuse of 'I forgot to rub it off'), then a few weeks later you claim an old route as a new route and think it funny to call it 'chalk police' (so you can't have actually felt apologetic) and now this.

Yeah, it washes off in the rain, but it looks disgusting in the meantime and gives all climbers a bad name and/or excuses the public to graffiti the crag by giving a bad example. And you ask 'who's onsighted the route', well, I imagine no-one whilst that drivel has been pasted all over the rock.

Completely unexcusable Paul, you've severely dropped in my expectations.

In reply to Chris Shorter: I remember the second occasion Chris, a bit messy all round I believe.....

In reply to andi turner: How pleasantly refreshing to hear someone else having a good rant about chalk.

In reply to Toreador:

This must be a joke. Surely?

In reply to paul mitchell:

Stop learning Buddhism, and learn how to climb instead FFS.

In reply to Adam Lincoln:

Not quite the same thing but some time ago I watched some bloke redpoint Wall of Horrors - he seemed to be 'with' some luminaries of the Yorshire scene - on (a lot of) pre-placed gear. He screamed with delight on topping out - I'm not quite sure why.

In reply to paul mitchell:

You had a very large chalk bag back in the late 80's I seem to remember...still using it up?

In reply to paul mitchell:
Thats not acceptable behaviour. Paul you should hang your head in shame.

In reply to Souljah: paul could have his own thread for tick mark hall of shame,it would be full. I suppose he could also have a thread "new routes that arnt new at all"

In reply to mark s:

He pretty much has:
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,1942.775.html

In reply to Mick Ward:
I guess, one day, I'll end up at the bottom and get to find out...

Don't leave it too late then Mick, it's nails and I've only followed it
Al

In reply to paul mitchell:

I remember being there in 1987/88, I was messing around soloing easy stuff opposite Wellington and watching one of the current top climbers soloing it. He was leaning back with a hand jam in while someone was taking photo's.

Sadly I can't remember who it was, John someone? He was on the covers of climbing mags around that time. I guess this was towards the end of Ron's dominance.

Shortly after I fell at Malham and didn't climb for another 20 years.

In reply to Alastair Lee:

Soljah has linked the UKB thread I referred to, just above.

In reply to paul mitchell: WT... I remember top roping the route,(never good enough to lead) back in mid 90's before PL left us, and was lucky enough to get his thoughts on the route. Point being I top roped and had ago, my memory isnt that great and i might have over chalked my hand occasionally, but mapping a route like this...
...maybe I could have lead it!?

In reply to Tiberius:

Probably John Dunne.

In reply to paul mitchell: Flashed Wellington in 1988. Quite pleased as Allan and Bancroft couldn't! It is pretty trashed now though. The removal of the capping block means it gets wet and debris washes down it. A lot of the atmosphere has gone too - brooding roof at the top made it quite impressive.
Cheers,

Mike Hammill

In reply to Mike Hammill:


What happened Mike?

In reply to jon:

Council removed it I think after an accident eslewhere on their land

In reply to Bulls Crack:

My recollection of the crag is very hazy and I don't really remember what was above the crack. How big was this thing?

In reply to Bulls Crack:

Going out on a limb here, but I'd say it was because he was pleased with what he had achieved. Not everyone has the same goals as you!

Graffiti on the other hand, that's very short sighted, gives the rest of us a bad name.

In reply to jon:

Probably about garden shed size IIRC. I led it in '83, on sight, really, really badly. It was out of my league then, two years later did it properly. Funnily enough it never felt E4, far too safe, more like E1 really. You couldn't hurt yourself if you tried. It wasn't even P3.

In reply to conorcussell: Considering you fell on Tufted crack, Wellington crack might be a touch hard

In reply to roberto18:

very different routes, tufted is very parallel sided and smooth, Wellington more locks and jams, I'd say the hardest move on tufted is harder than the hardest on Wellington.

In reply to paul mitchell: Quite funny this thread people getting upset about chalk marks on Wellington Crack,even calling it Graffiti !! well I thought all the chalk on the rock is Graffiti just makes the routes easier ,so why the fuss about Wellington ?

In reply to Michael Hood:

Thanks, quite large indeed.