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I have come to the conclusion that I can only train hard when I have a goal, so to improve my climbing I need to set a realistic goal. But what?
I currently climb once a week indoors (curse of living in the south east) at 6a/6a+ on top rope and 5/5+ on lead indoors. Lead about 5's outdoors.
I'm really weak and tubby so am a bit rubbish on overhangs and bouldering.
I have a home wall in my garden (check my gallery for pics)
I don't get to climb outdoors more often then once every other month if i'm lucky due to time restraints
I'm not massivly fit, but ran a half marathon a couple of months back, only really run once a week at the moment.
So what should I set as my goal?? and suggestions on how to reach it? aim for 6b 6c? aim to loose weight and get ripped? be climbing 6's on lead.
I currently climb once a week indoors (curse of living in the south east) at 6a/6a+ on top rope and 5/5+ on lead indoors. Lead about 5's outdoors.
I'm really weak and tubby so am a bit rubbish on overhangs and bouldering.
I have a home wall in my garden (check my gallery for pics)
I don't get to climb outdoors more often then once every other month if i'm lucky due to time restraints
I'm not massivly fit, but ran a half marathon a couple of months back, only really run once a week at the moment.
So what should I set as my goal?? and suggestions on how to reach it? aim for 6b 6c? aim to loose weight and get ripped? be climbing 6's on lead.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Overall aim for 6b o/s, 6c in a session and 7a redpoint and 10% bodyfat. Choose an outdoor route that inspires you as a very long term goal as a beacon.
Plaster that home board in holds and set yourself some hard projects and long linkups. Climb on it every evening possible and stop strong.
Also do some regular deadhanging and pullup practice
Don't worry about running unless you find it essential to lose weight
Get a cheap set of dumbells and do some complexes (Youtube is your friend)
Overall aim for 6b o/s, 6c in a session and 7a redpoint and 10% bodyfat. Choose an outdoor route that inspires you as a very long term goal as a beacon.
Plaster that home board in holds and set yourself some hard projects and long linkups. Climb on it every evening possible and stop strong.
Also do some regular deadhanging and pullup practice
Don't worry about running unless you find it essential to lose weight
Get a cheap set of dumbells and do some complexes (Youtube is your friend)
In reply to DreadyCraig:
What do *you* want to achieve? If it's not your goal you'll not be motivated to suffer for it.
Personally I'd start by addressing the lead/toprope discrepancy, there's a significant gain in performance to be had there for starters and it's one that'll stay with you long after you've got bored of training 3 nights a week on the woody!
jk
> So what should I set as my goal?? and suggestions on how to reach it? aim for 6b 6c? aim to loose weight and get ripped? be climbing 6's on lead.
What do *you* want to achieve? If it's not your goal you'll not be motivated to suffer for it.
Personally I'd start by addressing the lead/toprope discrepancy, there's a significant gain in performance to be had there for starters and it's one that'll stay with you long after you've got bored of training 3 nights a week on the woody!
jk
In reply to DreadyCraig:
>"suggestions on how to reach it?"
Even at indoors once a week you are currently under achieveing by quite a distance.
You literaly just need to do harder stuff. There is nothing stopping you lead F6b except yourself.
Go to the wall early and don't leave until you've climbed a new grade.
>"suggestions on how to reach it?"
Even at indoors once a week you are currently under achieveing by quite a distance.
You literaly just need to do harder stuff. There is nothing stopping you lead F6b except yourself.
Go to the wall early and don't leave until you've climbed a new grade.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Am at a similar level indoors. Although I haven't done much indoors recently, my aim is to be able to lead 6a consistently. I can lead odd 6as but I'd like to be able to lead lots more 6as that aren't my kind of route - overhanging, strenuous routes mainly. In order to achieve this, I rarely top rope any more and I make a conscious effort to climb routes I DON'T like the look of. I have a rule that I can only top rope if it's 6a+ or above. These are just suggestions - it's what works for you.
Oh, and I'd said running a half marathon indicates a pretty fair level of fitness!
Am at a similar level indoors. Although I haven't done much indoors recently, my aim is to be able to lead 6a consistently. I can lead odd 6as but I'd like to be able to lead lots more 6as that aren't my kind of route - overhanging, strenuous routes mainly. In order to achieve this, I rarely top rope any more and I make a conscious effort to climb routes I DON'T like the look of. I have a rule that I can only top rope if it's 6a+ or above. These are just suggestions - it's what works for you.
Oh, and I'd said running a half marathon indicates a pretty fair level of fitness!
In reply to JLS:
Got to disagree there. If our friend is only getting indoors once a week, then he is hardly going to have the juice to do many routes at or beyond his current limit. If you can do that you aren't trying hard enough, (or climbing below your realistic limit) or your technique is bad. Old school rules! Apologies if I misunderstood you
Got to disagree there. If our friend is only getting indoors once a week, then he is hardly going to have the juice to do many routes at or beyond his current limit. If you can do that you aren't trying hard enough, (or climbing below your realistic limit) or your technique is bad. Old school rules! Apologies if I misunderstood you
In reply to DreadyCraig: Learn to lead Trad. This is the gateway to all the best climbing in the UK, once you have some multipitch seacliff and mountain routes to inspire you there will be more reason to lose some weight and improve. I find having a multiday rock trip on the horizon gets me fitting in a few extra wall sessions and watching the snack/alcohol intake a little more carefully.
I have even been known to go running when I am planning something more ambitious like an Alpine trip. However my good training intentions for a trip to North Wales next week have been scuppered by injuring my ankle taking a fall at Portland last weekend - was just getting somewhere in terms of a modest improvement too, bollox.
Take a look at these VS ticklists, if you are leading 5/5+ outdoors on Sport, then VS trad is a reasonable proposition once you have acquired the additional skills required for trad.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=147
I have even been known to go running when I am planning something more ambitious like an Alpine trip. However my good training intentions for a trip to North Wales next week have been scuppered by injuring my ankle taking a fall at Portland last weekend - was just getting somewhere in terms of a modest improvement too, bollox.
Take a look at these VS ticklists, if you are leading 5/5+ outdoors on Sport, then VS trad is a reasonable proposition once you have acquired the additional skills required for trad.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=52
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=147
In reply to Fishmate:
>"or climbing below your realistic limit"
Nail on head, I say. We're talking about a 30 y.o. male, who's fit enough to jog round a half marathon and has been climbing for around 4 years. I'm thinking F6b is reasonable target *before* he even thinks about additional training. With a positive attitude and a few redpoint tactics then a F6a lead next session isn't out of the question.
>"or climbing below your realistic limit"
Nail on head, I say. We're talking about a 30 y.o. male, who's fit enough to jog round a half marathon and has been climbing for around 4 years. I'm thinking F6b is reasonable target *before* he even thinks about additional training. With a positive attitude and a few redpoint tactics then a F6a lead next session isn't out of the question.
In reply to Tall Clare:
All the more reason to use limited time well by climbing Trad then.
Dready Craig, If you climb at Craggy you probably don't live too far away from me if you fancy getting out and trying some Trad (Swanage or Wye perhaps) drop me an email. I'm a teacher and break up tomorrow so have the opportunity to get out a fair amount over the summer (weather permitting). I probably climb fairly similar grades to you technically, but have a fair amount of Trad experience, check my logbook for stuff I've done.
> (In reply to The Ivanator)
>
> he's said he can't get outdoors more than once every couple of months...
>
> he's said he can't get outdoors more than once every couple of months...
All the more reason to use limited time well by climbing Trad then.
Dready Craig, If you climb at Craggy you probably don't live too far away from me if you fancy getting out and trying some Trad (Swanage or Wye perhaps) drop me an email. I'm a teacher and break up tomorrow so have the opportunity to get out a fair amount over the summer (weather permitting). I probably climb fairly similar grades to you technically, but have a fair amount of Trad experience, check my logbook for stuff I've done.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Personally, I find grade goals to be fairly difficult to maintain my motivation. It's far better to pick specific routes or trips as a goal (even if that specific route is the yellow 6c on panel 32). That way, I find that everything I can do I can think to myself "this is helping me get closer to clipping the chain on my route".
Also, definitely set some intermediate goals (i.e lead 6a next week, lead 6b in a month, etc). That way, you can keep a monitor on your progress.
Personally, I find grade goals to be fairly difficult to maintain my motivation. It's far better to pick specific routes or trips as a goal (even if that specific route is the yellow 6c on panel 32). That way, I find that everything I can do I can think to myself "this is helping me get closer to clipping the chain on my route".
Also, definitely set some intermediate goals (i.e lead 6a next week, lead 6b in a month, etc). That way, you can keep a monitor on your progress.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Bit of management-speak but the acronym is good and the application of it worked well for me for my first two years of goal-setting.
Set "SMART" goals where SMART stands for:
specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and timely
Working on the assumption that the bulk of your climbing is at the indoor wall, I'm ignoring real rock goals for now.
I suggest minimising the top roping and minimising climbing the 5s. Get on 6as on lead. It doesn't matter if you start off by having to take rests and slumps and the odd fall or the odd cheeky use of a "cheat" hold. If you do have to rest on the rope, or fall, don't give up on the route - get back on. Just work on consolidating leading 6a for now, and call the goal "consistent onsight leading at 6a". Choose routes that play to your strengths at first, don't go for the overhangs if you have the choice not to.
Bit of management-speak but the acronym is good and the application of it worked well for me for my first two years of goal-setting.
Set "SMART" goals where SMART stands for:
specific, measurable, attainable, realistic and timely
Working on the assumption that the bulk of your climbing is at the indoor wall, I'm ignoring real rock goals for now.
I suggest minimising the top roping and minimising climbing the 5s. Get on 6as on lead. It doesn't matter if you start off by having to take rests and slumps and the odd fall or the odd cheeky use of a "cheat" hold. If you do have to rest on the rope, or fall, don't give up on the route - get back on. Just work on consolidating leading 6a for now, and call the goal "consistent onsight leading at 6a". Choose routes that play to your strengths at first, don't go for the overhangs if you have the choice not to.
In reply to DreadyCraig: Depends on the duration of your goal. A one month goal could be lead a 6a, a 1 year lead a 7a.
You dont look that 'tubby' from your pics so you shouldnt need to concentrate on losing the weight, it'll shed naturally with a decent training plan.
Set one month targets, so try and push a grade leading or toproping each month. Split each month into a week and focus on one aspect during that week - footwork, power, endurance, crimps, pinches, slopers etc - buy some more holds for your indoor wall and set the routes each Sunday evening to match your target. Then at the end of the month go for the target route. Read guides and watch DVD's (neil Gresham is pretty good at your level) to help as well.
To begin with watch for overtraining, you should probably manage every other day. Make sure you set aside the right amount of time for it and not just do a route here and there. At the end of the sessions do some pullups on jugs or deadhangs etc to finish your muscles off and eat properly to help them recover.
Goals:
August - Lead 3 6a+ in a session
September - TR 3 6b's in a session
October - Lead 1 6b
etc
You dont look that 'tubby' from your pics so you shouldnt need to concentrate on losing the weight, it'll shed naturally with a decent training plan.
Set one month targets, so try and push a grade leading or toproping each month. Split each month into a week and focus on one aspect during that week - footwork, power, endurance, crimps, pinches, slopers etc - buy some more holds for your indoor wall and set the routes each Sunday evening to match your target. Then at the end of the month go for the target route. Read guides and watch DVD's (neil Gresham is pretty good at your level) to help as well.
To begin with watch for overtraining, you should probably manage every other day. Make sure you set aside the right amount of time for it and not just do a route here and there. At the end of the sessions do some pullups on jugs or deadhangs etc to finish your muscles off and eat properly to help them recover.
Goals:
August - Lead 3 6a+ in a session
September - TR 3 6b's in a session
October - Lead 1 6b
etc
In reply to antdav:
Why the distinction between lead and toprope? I just don't get it, we're talking about a gridbolted indoor wall, it's easier to lead than toprope once the angle kicks back a bit! On the other hand it's totally counterproductive to have this two activities, two grades mindset when you take your new found strength and skills outdoors, the wider spacing of the bolts and your* ingrained reliance on toprope will have you spooked back into wobbling up the 5s. Embrace the relative safety of the indoor wall and use it to your advantage, learn to fall and more importantly to climb free from fear.
by your I mean one's, I'm not directly criticising you.
jk
> Goals:
> August - Lead 3 6a+ in a session
> September - TR 3 6b's in a session
> October - Lead 1 6b
> etc
> August - Lead 3 6a+ in a session
> September - TR 3 6b's in a session
> October - Lead 1 6b
> etc
Why the distinction between lead and toprope? I just don't get it, we're talking about a gridbolted indoor wall, it's easier to lead than toprope once the angle kicks back a bit! On the other hand it's totally counterproductive to have this two activities, two grades mindset when you take your new found strength and skills outdoors, the wider spacing of the bolts and your* ingrained reliance on toprope will have you spooked back into wobbling up the 5s. Embrace the relative safety of the indoor wall and use it to your advantage, learn to fall and more importantly to climb free from fear.
by your I mean one's, I'm not directly criticising you.
jk
In reply to Blue Straggler: If you want to put yourself off climbing (or any activity for that matter) then set SMART targets:
Smug
Management
Assholes
Required
Tasks
I've seen plenty of them land on my desk at college, it saddens me that a field like Education has been swallowed whole by the corporate jargon jugganaut.
Smug
Management
Assholes
Required
Tasks
I've seen plenty of them land on my desk at college, it saddens me that a field like Education has been swallowed whole by the corporate jargon jugganaut.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Are you pushed / motivated / inspired by your climbing partners? I often find this is a useful driving force in grade progression.
For me, this doesn't mean climbing with someone who climbs a lot harder grades than me, just that I need to climb with people who motivate me to push (or rather, pull!) harder.
Are you pushed / motivated / inspired by your climbing partners? I often find this is a useful driving force in grade progression.
For me, this doesn't mean climbing with someone who climbs a lot harder grades than me, just that I need to climb with people who motivate me to push (or rather, pull!) harder.
In reply to jkarran:
Absolutely, ditch the toproping inside...it's pointless and counterproductive. I see people toprope for half their session before they graduate to 1 or 2 lead climbs at the end. All that does is make leading feel special rather than the norm. The more leading you do the more comfortable you will feel. At the op's grade training shouldn't be the focus, the simple fact it that you won't improve and less you are climbing a lot more.
Absolutely, ditch the toproping inside...it's pointless and counterproductive. I see people toprope for half their session before they graduate to 1 or 2 lead climbs at the end. All that does is make leading feel special rather than the norm. The more leading you do the more comfortable you will feel. At the op's grade training shouldn't be the focus, the simple fact it that you won't improve and less you are climbing a lot more.
In reply to simonzxr:
I completely agree. Even if you end up dropping your grade for a while till you get used to the idea of leading EVERY route, it's so much more satisfying (for me at least) than TR now.
I completely agree. Even if you end up dropping your grade for a while till you get used to the idea of leading EVERY route, it's so much more satisfying (for me at least) than TR now.
In reply to DreadyCraig: F8c.
I find that if you can comfortably TR something a few grades higher it gives you the confidence to lead a harder grade. I know its a psychological thing but it works for me when the nerves are holding me back. I agree that fall training is needed and learning to take a fall unexpededly even more so, but if its a method to push you to the next grade then TR's have their place.
I suppose its a personal thing but also what the OP final goal is. I enjoy seconding an E1 just as rewarding as leading a VS.
I dont get how its easier to lead than TR ever as you have no fall nerves to take into account and no using energy clipping.
I suppose its a personal thing but also what the OP final goal is. I enjoy seconding an E1 just as rewarding as leading a VS.
I dont get how its easier to lead than TR ever as you have no fall nerves to take into account and no using energy clipping.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Personally, I would set a goal of getting out on rock more. In fact I've set this goal for myself, because if you don't go for it then it's easy to never hit real rock when you live in the SE. But looking at where you are, you can be in Swanage in a couple of hours and southern sandstone in about an hour.
So my first training would be in the noble art of cadging lifts, sharing the driving and paying petrol money. Or, if you are already motoring, then it's all about finding partners, getting up early, doing day hits, driving whilst knackered.
The second training would be the somewhat less noble art of junking other things in your life in order to go climbing. Whittle away your time restraints.
Sorting out that little lot and getting more time on rock will help a huge amount. Then I would remember: we don't climb grades. We climb routes. So, aim for some routes (which might be the magic grade you want to climb). That's a little more inspiring, as you can stick a picture of the route on your wall or at your desk, and think about doing it. It will also give some focus to your training.
Finally I'd plan some trips - go to the Peak, or Cornwall, or Font, or Buoux, whatever turns you on. That will help give you the motivation.
And yeah, all the guys suggesting giving up top roping, doing dumbbell complexes, and all that. Follow their advice too.
Personally, I would set a goal of getting out on rock more. In fact I've set this goal for myself, because if you don't go for it then it's easy to never hit real rock when you live in the SE. But looking at where you are, you can be in Swanage in a couple of hours and southern sandstone in about an hour.
So my first training would be in the noble art of cadging lifts, sharing the driving and paying petrol money. Or, if you are already motoring, then it's all about finding partners, getting up early, doing day hits, driving whilst knackered.
The second training would be the somewhat less noble art of junking other things in your life in order to go climbing. Whittle away your time restraints.
Sorting out that little lot and getting more time on rock will help a huge amount. Then I would remember: we don't climb grades. We climb routes. So, aim for some routes (which might be the magic grade you want to climb). That's a little more inspiring, as you can stick a picture of the route on your wall or at your desk, and think about doing it. It will also give some focus to your training.
Finally I'd plan some trips - go to the Peak, or Cornwall, or Font, or Buoux, whatever turns you on. That will help give you the motivation.
And yeah, all the guys suggesting giving up top roping, doing dumbbell complexes, and all that. Follow their advice too.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
All the usual caveats in that I am not a sports scientist / uber wad /Dave Macleod but I have recently progressed from where you are now and I have found this has largely been due to the following factors:
1. Long term and short term goals; if the goal is too far away you will fail to be satisfied with the progress you are making. If you can tick off a number of short term goals on the way the progress is far more measurable.
2. Training is not a dirty word. It does not have to mean more hours and less fun, what it should mean is using your time more productively.
3. Identify weakness; good old Dave and his book 9 out of 10 climbers will help you here but a rough guess from your post is fear of falling and climbing footwork (It’s always about the footwork.)
4. Fuel up; by all means go for a run to loose some weight but when you go to climb be ready to climb hard and make sure you have enough calories in your body in order to climb at your peak. You will be amazed at how much difference this makes!
5. Psychology; read this interview with Sharma about how he bagged first round, “When you climb a route at your maximum level you need to want it more than anything else in the world. But at the same time, this desire can keep you from succeeding. So you need to find the balance, let everything go, just climb for the pure joy of climbing, let things flow and try as hard as possible while not being concerned about the outcome.”
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38...
Pretty zen “The art of action less action” but to put it into context for punters like you and I, the next time you are at the wall, you’ve done your warm up routes and you are eyeing up that 6a lead you have to want to get to the top of that thing more than life itself, but the moment you start climbing concentrate on enjoying the climb itself and nothing else and you will be at the top in no time.
Good luck, and if you fancy a climb send me an email.
All the usual caveats in that I am not a sports scientist / uber wad /Dave Macleod but I have recently progressed from where you are now and I have found this has largely been due to the following factors:
1. Long term and short term goals; if the goal is too far away you will fail to be satisfied with the progress you are making. If you can tick off a number of short term goals on the way the progress is far more measurable.
2. Training is not a dirty word. It does not have to mean more hours and less fun, what it should mean is using your time more productively.
3. Identify weakness; good old Dave and his book 9 out of 10 climbers will help you here but a rough guess from your post is fear of falling and climbing footwork (It’s always about the footwork.)
4. Fuel up; by all means go for a run to loose some weight but when you go to climb be ready to climb hard and make sure you have enough calories in your body in order to climb at your peak. You will be amazed at how much difference this makes!
5. Psychology; read this interview with Sharma about how he bagged first round, “When you climb a route at your maximum level you need to want it more than anything else in the world. But at the same time, this desire can keep you from succeeding. So you need to find the balance, let everything go, just climb for the pure joy of climbing, let things flow and try as hard as possible while not being concerned about the outcome.”
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=38...
Pretty zen “The art of action less action” but to put it into context for punters like you and I, the next time you are at the wall, you’ve done your warm up routes and you are eyeing up that 6a lead you have to want to get to the top of that thing more than life itself, but the moment you start climbing concentrate on enjoying the climb itself and nothing else and you will be at the top in no time.
Good luck, and if you fancy a climb send me an email.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
WOW! so much information to take in. I'm gonna have a relly good read of all this and devise myself a plan.
@ ivanator, I will take you up on your offer to teach me trad!
WOW! so much information to take in. I'm gonna have a relly good read of all this and devise myself a plan.
@ ivanator, I will take you up on your offer to teach me trad!
In reply to DreadyCraig:
A good goal/project will be to climb around the same grades (~5/6), outdoor multi-pitch routes ! That's usually a bit harder as you don't have the usual coloured holds, so you need to find the holds by yourself.
Good one as well to learn new knots and progress about rope techniques !
A good goal/project will be to climb around the same grades (~5/6), outdoor multi-pitch routes ! That's usually a bit harder as you don't have the usual coloured holds, so you need to find the holds by yourself.
Good one as well to learn new knots and progress about rope techniques !
In reply to DreadyCraig:
I'm like you in that I need to goal to work towards.
I find that the best sort of goal for me is a climbing trip. If I know I'm going away in 3 months time for a week in <insert amazing climbing location> then I will make an effort to get fit and strong for that.
Maybe plan a trip to Fontainebleau or the alps or Spain or somewhere, and focus your climbing around that?
I'm like you in that I need to goal to work towards.
I find that the best sort of goal for me is a climbing trip. If I know I'm going away in 3 months time for a week in <insert amazing climbing location> then I will make an effort to get fit and strong for that.
Maybe plan a trip to Fontainebleau or the alps or Spain or somewhere, and focus your climbing around that?
In reply to DreadyCraig:
@ shark, I like this as a goal "Overall aim for 6b o/s, 6c in a session and 7a redpoint and 10% bodyfat". Although the idea of 7a does seem hard.
@ antdave. I'm going to work towards a long term goal at Christmas, as six months seems a good time period to work to. Although realistically I'd like to achieve the goals above by this time next year. I'm going to start making notes about my progess every week/session. To track my improvement.
I also like the idea of spending most of my time leading rather than TR as thinking about it I do a lot of TR before I lead which would be nearer the end of my evenings climbing so am already knackered by then.
Also Have just found out my Dad will need a triple heart bypass op, so I am going to get rid of the tummy fat as this is a sure sign of future heart problems.
@ shark, I like this as a goal "Overall aim for 6b o/s, 6c in a session and 7a redpoint and 10% bodyfat". Although the idea of 7a does seem hard.
@ antdave. I'm going to work towards a long term goal at Christmas, as six months seems a good time period to work to. Although realistically I'd like to achieve the goals above by this time next year. I'm going to start making notes about my progess every week/session. To track my improvement.
I also like the idea of spending most of my time leading rather than TR as thinking about it I do a lot of TR before I lead which would be nearer the end of my evenings climbing so am already knackered by then.
Also Have just found out my Dad will need a triple heart bypass op, so I am going to get rid of the tummy fat as this is a sure sign of future heart problems.
In reply to DreadyCraig:
Lead everything at the wall. Climb till you fall off rather than stopping when you get to a hard move, you might surprise yourself.
If you can lead 6a (which, if you can top rope it, you almost certainly can) you can probably lead 6b just by improving your technique. Read up on footwork drills, route reading, etc. Then practice them on easy stuff or on traverses on the bouldering wall.
Try redpointing as a means to increase your level. Don't just dog up a route. Work each section. Hone the moves. Practise the links. Then lead it.
I've not done much red pointing compared to other types of climbing but I have found it made a big difference to my onsight grade when I was sport climbing more. As a general rule you should be aiming to be redpointing 2-4 grades harder than your onsight level (depending on how many hours/days you want to spend on it).
Lead everything at the wall. Climb till you fall off rather than stopping when you get to a hard move, you might surprise yourself.
If you can lead 6a (which, if you can top rope it, you almost certainly can) you can probably lead 6b just by improving your technique. Read up on footwork drills, route reading, etc. Then practice them on easy stuff or on traverses on the bouldering wall.
Try redpointing as a means to increase your level. Don't just dog up a route. Work each section. Hone the moves. Practise the links. Then lead it.
I've not done much red pointing compared to other types of climbing but I have found it made a big difference to my onsight grade when I was sport climbing more. As a general rule you should be aiming to be redpointing 2-4 grades harder than your onsight level (depending on how many hours/days you want to spend on it).
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