UKC

NEWS: VIDEO: Bouldering World Championships 2011

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 UKC News 18 Jul 2011
L-R: Sasha DiGiulian (2nd), Anna Stöhr (1st) and Juliane Wurm (3rd), 6 kbAustrian Anna Stöhr and Russian Dmitry Sharafutdinov have won the Bouldering World Championships this weekend.

The event - this year based in Arco, Italy - was watched by a huge crowd of over 5000 spectators.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63117

 Scarab 18 Jul 2011
Results - Men's Bouldering:

1.Dmitry Sharafutdinov
3.Rustam Gelmanov

Results - Women's Bouldering:


4.Yana Chereshneva
5.Akiyo Noguchi
6.Olga Bibik


You rarely hear anything about the above names in Climbing mags and etc...


Is climbing mags too oriented to West Europe and Usa and neglectic Russian and East asian climbers?

Discuss
cjjenks 18 Jul 2011
In reply to Scarab:

yes
valjean 18 Jul 2011
In reply to Scarab:

definitely...

we can just look at the attention sasha will get, this being her "first" bouldering comp.... first ifsc bouldering comp, but shes competed in several bouldering comps in the last couple of years in Canada and USA as far as i know, and i have youtube and dpm as my sources

akiyo is the number 1 world cup boulderer for 2009 and 2010.... and can still catch stohr this year. She has like 10 WC boulder wins and a couple of lead podium finishes. But we hear more about Alex Puccio

same goes for Jain Kim.. ranked #2 and #1 for the past two years in WC lead and has podium finishes in bouldering.

comes down to sponsorship and how much that sponsor will push for you to be in the limelight and give you enough money to make a decent living. Sharfutdinov couldnt make it to the WC in Canada for financial reasons... but as far as i know the Austrian Federation covers the cost of the comps for their. Imagine if Ramonet didnt have to work as an electrician, was American, and had Big Up productions filming him project 9a/b routes.
 Jonny2vests 18 Jul 2011
In reply to Scarab:

> Is climbing mags too oriented to West Europe and Usa and neglectic Russian and East asian climbers?
>
> Discuss

Are the western climbing media more focussed on western climbers? Well, yeah. Are the British climbing media more focused on British climbers? I'd bloody hope so.

I'm sure if any international climber did something truly internationally significant then it would get reported, but you can't report everything. And this is indoor bouldering FFS, lets not get too excited.
In reply to UKC News:

The first woman climber made that look so easy. it's only when you see the rest struggling that you even get a clue of the difficulty!
 sam820 19 Jul 2011
In reply to jonny2vests:

Only indoor bouldering... so your saying the world championships are unimportant?

No wonder we're not represented in these comps; they're way below us because we're British and trad is all that matters!
 BenNorman 19 Jul 2011
In reply to UKC News: If you think about it I think climbers from eastern europe and asia get as much coverage as other competition climbers (even if this is just their name in the list of results). The reason why americans such as puccio have much more coverage are their achievements on rock which is what our climbing media is primarily focused on. Maybe this is as they don't have as much good quality climbing as other places but more likely it is as their attitude towards climbing is more sports based and therefor they spend most of their time focused upon inside training and competitions.

Just a thought
Ben
 xican 19 Jul 2011
In reply to valjean:
> But we hear more about Alex Puccio


yes but alex puccio is a babe
 Jonny2vests 20 Jul 2011
In reply to sam820:
> (In reply to jonny2vests)
>
> Only indoor bouldering... so your saying the world championships are unimportant?

In the grand scheme of things, yes. They are an enjoyable distraction.

> No wonder we're not represented in these comps; they're way below us because we're British and trad is all that matters!

What's trad got to do with anything?
 Jonny2vests 20 Jul 2011
In reply to xican:
> (In reply to valjean)
> [...]
>
>
> yes but alex puccio is a babe

If you're into massive biceps. Each to their own I suppose.

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