In reply to UKC Articles:
A great route, indeed.
Just a slight note of caution since routes change according to conditions and descriptions will obviously vary. The article's author writes of the section around the foresummit: "An obvious steep descent on 50 degree snow leads down to a gap. Either down climb or abseil as there are fixed anchors. Its actually easier on the way back!"
I wouldn't want to spoil anyone's pleasure but when we did it, "the way back up" was easily the most taxing and time-consuming section of the route: the conveniently placed fixed rope was caught round a nubbin half-way up the pitch and reaching it involved some pretty delicate climbing on surprisingly unaccommodating rock covered in powder snow. And if the fixed rope (fortunately, there was one) hadn't eventually succumbed to some hooking? Well, even more sporting pleasure!
