UKC

Stephen Reid and Steve Scott report that a large crack has recently opened up at the top of Castle Rock of Triermain's North Buttress.

Climbers are asked to avoid the North Buttress of Castle Rock for the time being.

Please read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63191

In reply to UKC News: Let me know when it falls off .May return from US for the new routes on what's left.

Damn, I almost did Overhanging Bastion again a few months ago for old times sake. Wish I had now!

The new Eastern guide is going to be rather out of date after this, sadly

In reply to UKC News:

Looks like a splendid new route. If someone gets on it, please do film...

In reply to UKC News:

Think the BMC could be very pro active here, by hosting possibly the biggest boulder trundle session ever seen in the lakes

As always though, concise reporting from Stephen & Steve.

In reply to UKC News:

Bomber gear though ...

In reply to UKC News: Maybe cut down any trees with roots in the crack ,and put on the stumps full strength weed killer,that would help. Better than killing other trees and stuff below if it does cut loose.However I would not worry too much about it..adds a bit of spice to the climbs.

In reply to USBRIT: ....a barrow load of sika down the crack and half a dozen helical wall ties all will be good.

In reply to USBRIT:

Ummm a) might not be anything to do with it and (b) probably illegal!

In reply to UKC News:

Looks alarming. I'm trying to remember whether the buildings below are in the line of fire; the road certainly is. Leaving aside the climbing issues for a second there is clearly going to have to be some critical inspection and possibly a very complex stabilisation operation.

In reply to Bulls Crack:

VERY likely tree roots are the problem. Illegal who cares... half the Borrowdale climbers would have been in jail for this offence! Much better to take out a couple of trees than have mass destruction of everything below. Go to it .. from X Forestry Worker

In reply to Jamie Bankhead: Was thinking the same thing, i haven't been for ages, but it's only a 5 minute walk from the road isn't it?

In reply to Dave Warburton:

It's actually quite a way from the road but it is steep and right over it, so not totally impossible.

It doesn't look to me that killing some trees will make this 'safe'.

In reply to USBRIT:

You don't, perhaps, sir, feel that you've already had your fair share of fun on this crag? Rigor Mortis was, indeed, "a bit stiff". And the old debate about sticking gear in Triermain Eliminate and having to rest on it? A wasp settled the problem for me by zinging up my shirt, thereby facilitating a somewhat hasty (one runner) ascent.

Ted Cheasby in a gentle drizzle (they told me it was an easy E1!) and Ghost (after Bonington pulled a hold off and declared it unclimbable)...

All in all, a naughty little crag. Little did I know it was all just a warm-up for your horror of horrors, Post Mortem.

Mick

In reply to UKC News:
Scary, worth also noting this on the logbook.

In reply to UKC News: According to UKC logbook we were the last logged team on Overhanging Bastion. I deny any responsibility, I warned Dave he had over-cammed.

In reply to Mick Ward:

Talking of 'naughty little crag'. I remember when Agony was HVS. Absolutely outrageous.

In reply to Mick Ward: I resemble those remarks! good one. Anyway Mick seems like some chicken folk in the UK these days . If I did not live 4500 miles away the job would have already been done.Of course it would miss the routes you mentioned.

In reply to UKC News:Bye the way to those men of action best to use a weed killer that normally needs to be diluted.Use undiluted its quicker and more sure.Of course cut the trees as low as possible. Just cutting down the tree or trees will not help..you have to kill the roots with the weed killer..

In reply to JonC:

"Safe' nothing is totally safe if you rock climb.That's one of the reason's some of us do it. Castle Rock is now no more dangerous (perhaps less) than climbimg on or walking below an Alpine face.Just climb OB before the sun gets on it ...good luck.

In reply to Gordon Stainforth:

Err... isn't Agony HVS? It was the first route we did on the crag. I remember my mate, Deke, shouting up, "Can't you get some gear in, Mick?" and me muttering, "Well, no... not really." Soloed to the top. Should have learned something from that but (being very young and even more foolish), didn't.

Mick

In reply to UKC News:

You need Gibson up there. There is literally nothing that guy can't fix with a pot of sika #everything at masson lees.

In reply to UKC News: If the passing motoring public are in danger fine something needs to be done.If not, simply post a warning on the approach,otherwise why do we climb? assess the dangers and do it !!When I first did it a few line slings were all you had,i.e b...all.If you climb in the Alps you may layback a crack then send it into oblivion!!