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UKC Fit Club is not a substitute for the training diary but to use with ( or without ) it as a motivational tool for all.
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (225) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=467363
Repeat Posters - 29
AJM
IainRUK - steady week, but I'm not sure the 2am start would have agreed with me
Steve John B - steady on the heel drops, and its been a while since youve been out running at all isn't it?
petestack - nice one on the result!
gary.barr - steady week
Sankey - new goals, looks good
grubes - sounds like a good week, and cheers for the beta on Rubicon
richardh - looking at the grades, Kilnsey does look pretty bad for people after an easy day!
Eagle River - nice one on the 7b traverse
biscuit - I hope the bulk of your remaining days here were productive
mattrm - hope the ankle is better?
andy - sounds like a decent mileage week
Thickhead - unexciting, but still packing the sessions in
fimm - nice one on the climbing
Liam M - relaxed week, but still a good few sessions
leon - like you say, a route with a big rep for its size
seankenny - hope Pakistan goes well
Sonya Mc - good mileage in on the hills there
The New NickB - good race result
chris05 - weather isn't so hot at the minute is it, the weather.....
Curious Yellow - bad news on the back
Murd - sounds like a good mix of stuff there, some boulder and sport and indoors
TonyB - did you get any mornings in?
catt - sounds like a heavy week. Effort on the Portland tick
Stone_donkey - like everyone said to me, psyche is so variable, it'll be back
Hoppo - 6a/+ would normally have 5bish sort of climbing on it
JimmyKay - nice one on the V10
Daniel Heath - 5weeks of endurance will see you get some serious gains. Where in Spain are you off to?
Miles - sounds like an ace trip, enjoy the rest of it!
Newcomers/returnees - 4
Jeriqo - steady week
Ed Feldman - welcome Ed. Its great to get out climbing again after an injury isn't it
jgustafsson - welcome - some good goals there, like you say always good to dream big!
Kevster - keep plugging away, that way the outdoors will be on harder things...
For those wanting to find out more about training for climbing a number of physical training articles here:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=274502
and here
http://ukbouldering.com/board/index.php/topic,16421.msg287007/topicseen.htm...
A new thread is posted each week on Sunday for anyone to jot down their previous week’s activity, noting goals, successes and failures and to swap ideas.
Anyone interested in starting is very welcome but you should aim to post each week, every week, however little or much you have done. By making such a regular public record of your activities and by restating your goals every week this new habit will hopefully improve your training habits to help achieve your goals whatever the level of your chosen activity.
Link to last weeks (225) thread
http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=467363
Repeat Posters - 29
AJM
IainRUK - steady week, but I'm not sure the 2am start would have agreed with me
Steve John B - steady on the heel drops, and its been a while since youve been out running at all isn't it?
petestack - nice one on the result!
gary.barr - steady week
Sankey - new goals, looks good
grubes - sounds like a good week, and cheers for the beta on Rubicon
richardh - looking at the grades, Kilnsey does look pretty bad for people after an easy day!
Eagle River - nice one on the 7b traverse
biscuit - I hope the bulk of your remaining days here were productive
mattrm - hope the ankle is better?
andy - sounds like a decent mileage week
Thickhead - unexciting, but still packing the sessions in
fimm - nice one on the climbing
Liam M - relaxed week, but still a good few sessions
leon - like you say, a route with a big rep for its size
seankenny - hope Pakistan goes well
Sonya Mc - good mileage in on the hills there
The New NickB - good race result
chris05 - weather isn't so hot at the minute is it, the weather.....
Curious Yellow - bad news on the back
Murd - sounds like a good mix of stuff there, some boulder and sport and indoors
TonyB - did you get any mornings in?
catt - sounds like a heavy week. Effort on the Portland tick
Stone_donkey - like everyone said to me, psyche is so variable, it'll be back
Hoppo - 6a/+ would normally have 5bish sort of climbing on it
JimmyKay - nice one on the V10
Daniel Heath - 5weeks of endurance will see you get some serious gains. Where in Spain are you off to?
Miles - sounds like an ace trip, enjoy the rest of it!
Newcomers/returnees - 4
Jeriqo - steady week
Ed Feldman - welcome Ed. Its great to get out climbing again after an injury isn't it
jgustafsson - welcome - some good goals there, like you say always good to dream big!
Kevster - keep plugging away, that way the outdoors will be on harder things...
In reply to AJM: Cheers, AJM.
Still no running - had the stitches out of my poorly foot, so just a couple of bike rides - a lumpy 20 miler after work on Wednesday then a ride over to York yesterday to give 70 for the week.
Hopefully get back to some running this week.
Still no running - had the stitches out of my poorly foot, so just a couple of bike rides - a lumpy 20 miler after work on Wednesday then a ride over to York yesterday to give 70 for the week.
Hopefully get back to some running this week.
In reply to AJM:
A week's mountain leader training with the military.
S-
M-Beacon Climbing Centre, 6c (just) and dogged a 7a
I feel like I haven't improved my indoor sport grade in a whole year.
A bit frustrating but we'll see what these weeks of endurance do.
T-5 mile steady run
close arm press ups
W-Walked Glyder Fach
Tried a 6c at Bus Stop. Still can't figure the crux.
T-Carnedd Llewelyn and long walk to a wild camp near llandudno
F-
S-Endurance using a chair, a radio and openhanding a chin up bar.
I'll stay in The Orange House, Alicante mid September.
Cheers, I'm looking forward to seeing what gains I can get from simple endurance sessions at home.
Dan
A week's mountain leader training with the military.
S-
M-Beacon Climbing Centre, 6c (just) and dogged a 7a
I feel like I haven't improved my indoor sport grade in a whole year.
A bit frustrating but we'll see what these weeks of endurance do.
T-5 mile steady run
close arm press ups
W-Walked Glyder Fach
Tried a 6c at Bus Stop. Still can't figure the crux.
T-Carnedd Llewelyn and long walk to a wild camp near llandudno
F-
S-Endurance using a chair, a radio and openhanding a chin up bar.
I'll stay in The Orange House, Alicante mid September.
Cheers, I'm looking forward to seeing what gains I can get from simple endurance sessions at home.
Dan
In reply to AJM:
Thanks AJM. Got my 10 HS leads done, big tick for me, very happy.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (10/10 leads) TICK, 11st 10lbs
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 4/10 leads), 11st 7lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 4lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Exercise and stretching - 20 mins
T - F - Rest
S - Trad climbing at Fall Bay
S - Rest
My ankle is much better. Not quite up to running on it yet, but it's getting there. Might be able to get out running next week towards the end of the week. Had a great trad session yesterday. Got out to the Fally Bay area on the Gower. Went to a new crag for me, got a good solid hard HS in there. So that's me done on the 'consolidate HS' goal. Yay! Could do with going back to Three Cliffs and doing some of the slabby HSes there, but still I'm feeling much better at that grade. Did a soft touch VS, which I did fairly well on. Flubbed up the gear a bit, put too much in which meant I had awful rope drag and that then lifted two otherwise well placed nuts out. They were quite a long way off the line of the climb and you then have to traverse, so they got pulled out. Still had another solid nut and a cam at the same point so it was ok.
Went to the Gower Bolt Policy meeting afterwards. Was saddened to see the number of decisions to allow more bolting on the Gower. There's been a lot of sport routes put up on the Gower recently and it looks like it's set to continue, with bolts being added to some trad crags (The Sistine Ceiling) which is crap in my opinion. But the majority at the meeting voted to have more bolts added and to allow more routes and crags to be bolted.
Thanks AJM. Got my 10 HS leads done, big tick for me, very happy.
STG - 23:45 5k, Consolidate HS (10/10 leads) TICK, 11st 10lbs
MTG - 23:30 5k, Consolidate VS (8/10 - 2nds | 4/10 leads), 11st 7lbs
LTG - 23:15 5k, Lead HVS, 11st 4lbs
VLTG - Lead E1, maintain weight
Aspirational - Climb E5/6, Scottish Winter VI, WI5, Redpoint 8a, stay injury free & maintain 11st 7lbs
Weight - 12st 7lbs
M - Exercise and stretching - 20 mins
T - F - Rest
S - Trad climbing at Fall Bay
S - Rest
My ankle is much better. Not quite up to running on it yet, but it's getting there. Might be able to get out running next week towards the end of the week. Had a great trad session yesterday. Got out to the Fally Bay area on the Gower. Went to a new crag for me, got a good solid hard HS in there. So that's me done on the 'consolidate HS' goal. Yay! Could do with going back to Three Cliffs and doing some of the slabby HSes there, but still I'm feeling much better at that grade. Did a soft touch VS, which I did fairly well on. Flubbed up the gear a bit, put too much in which meant I had awful rope drag and that then lifted two otherwise well placed nuts out. They were quite a long way off the line of the climb and you then have to traverse, so they got pulled out. Still had another solid nut and a cam at the same point so it was ok.
Went to the Gower Bolt Policy meeting afterwards. Was saddened to see the number of decisions to allow more bolting on the Gower. There's been a lot of sport routes put up on the Gower recently and it looks like it's set to continue, with bolts being added to some trad crags (The Sistine Ceiling) which is crap in my opinion. But the majority at the meeting voted to have more bolts added and to allow more routes and crags to be bolted.
In reply to mattrm:
Do you know if the minutes are online somewhere yet? Curious to see where has been changed.
Is there a photo of the Sistine chapel in the guide? I have a half memory of a photo that suggests it's one of those "trad crags" where it's basically a set of clip ups on rotting pegs and antique threads that were basically bomber when the routes were first done? Or am I way out?
Do you know if the minutes are online somewhere yet? Curious to see where has been changed.
Is there a photo of the Sistine chapel in the guide? I have a half memory of a photo that suggests it's one of those "trad crags" where it's basically a set of clip ups on rotting pegs and antique threads that were basically bomber when the routes were first done? Or am I way out?
In reply to AJM:
I missed saying congratulations to IronwomanFimm. Awesome achievement, particularly given how interrupted your training seemed to be.
Bumper (but dull) four week edition:
week lag3 - nothing - working abroad all week
week lag2 - not much - 15 miles total for week
week lag1 - working abroad again, but nice river/woods outside Poitiers, and (minor) hill reps with club at weekend - 27 miles total for week
M -
T - AM: 4.4 miles run, road, easy, flat; PM: 5 miles run road and towpath, steady, flat
W - AM: 4.5 miles road and towpath run, easy and steady, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
F - 17.5 miles road run, minor hills, steady
S - 40 mins hill reps plus wupdown - about 8 miles
S -
Very busy with work, and working abroad means absence from family who then tend to have priority when I return. Also I don't have any clear goals at the moment, though this may be a good thing because I don't really have time to fulfil them.
I missed saying congratulations to IronwomanFimm. Awesome achievement, particularly given how interrupted your training seemed to be.
Bumper (but dull) four week edition:
week lag3 - nothing - working abroad all week
week lag2 - not much - 15 miles total for week
week lag1 - working abroad again, but nice river/woods outside Poitiers, and (minor) hill reps with club at weekend - 27 miles total for week
M -
T - AM: 4.4 miles run, road, easy, flat; PM: 5 miles run road and towpath, steady, flat
W - AM: 4.5 miles road and towpath run, easy and steady, flat, PM: 3.5 miles road run, easy, minor hill
T -
F - 17.5 miles road run, minor hills, steady
S - 40 mins hill reps plus wupdown - about 8 miles
S -
Very busy with work, and working abroad means absence from family who then tend to have priority when I return. Also I don't have any clear goals at the moment, though this may be a good thing because I don't really have time to fulfil them.
In reply to AJM: High stress levels this week so not done much! Trip to the Alps came very close to being sacked due to matters out of my control and been feeling really stressed and down in the dumps. So, had several changes of plans and hopefully (if nothing else goes wrong) then I should be driving down to France this week. Original plan had been to head to Gressoney/Alagne and climb some of the Monte Rosa peaks and then if we felt fully fit and acclimatised and conditions were good, to go up Mont Blanc via the Aguilles Grises. That's all by the by now though and we've had to downscale (hubby had pretty full on dental surgery resulting in infection then we had problems with our van insurance.) So, plan is to drive to Termignon and play around in the Haute Maurienne, maybe move on to play on something bigger and if hubby is feeling good and well, then possibly nip over to Italy and the Monte Rosa.
I'd been feeling really fed up as I'd pretty much sacrificed a whole summer of climbing to have lots of hill days instead to get fit and I was feeling like it had been a waste of time if I couldn't try for Mont Blanc. Then I was fed up as I didn't want to go on holiday on my own without hubby. But happier now as although plans have changed, hubby is feeling good enough to come with me and fit enough to atleast play a little
Anyway, all that will be reported on next week (hopefully!) This week has been a bit lazy due to the above needing sorted.
Mon - Did half an hour of yoga.
Tue - went for a 7.5 mile hill run up Badandun, a Graham in Glen Isla. Went over my ankle when trying to run through knee deep heather. Cursed for a minute and hopped about, then it settled so I carried on. Went to the wall later that evening but felt knackered and weak as I've not climbed regularly enough so didn't lead anything harder than 6a.
Wed - went to Ratho. Ankle quite sore from yesterday and keeps seizing up. Not mega sore just a bit stiff and a wincy bit swollen but I could feel it twinge a little when standing on small holds or on slabs. Again, didn't do anything harder than 6a.
Thurs - This is when the stress started and I really couldn't be f***ed with anything.
Fri - ditto
Sat - feeling better but RB had a training event at Ratho and I was helping to judge.
Sun - had planned to go for a 9mile run up Clachnaben but really windy outside and I really couldn't be bothered. Having to clean van and shop etc for leaving on Wed morning.
I'd been feeling really fed up as I'd pretty much sacrificed a whole summer of climbing to have lots of hill days instead to get fit and I was feeling like it had been a waste of time if I couldn't try for Mont Blanc. Then I was fed up as I didn't want to go on holiday on my own without hubby. But happier now as although plans have changed, hubby is feeling good enough to come with me and fit enough to atleast play a little
Anyway, all that will be reported on next week (hopefully!) This week has been a bit lazy due to the above needing sorted.
Mon - Did half an hour of yoga.
Tue - went for a 7.5 mile hill run up Badandun, a Graham in Glen Isla. Went over my ankle when trying to run through knee deep heather. Cursed for a minute and hopped about, then it settled so I carried on. Went to the wall later that evening but felt knackered and weak as I've not climbed regularly enough so didn't lead anything harder than 6a.
Wed - went to Ratho. Ankle quite sore from yesterday and keeps seizing up. Not mega sore just a bit stiff and a wincy bit swollen but I could feel it twinge a little when standing on small holds or on slabs. Again, didn't do anything harder than 6a.
Thurs - This is when the stress started and I really couldn't be f***ed with anything.
Fri - ditto
Sat - feeling better but RB had a training event at Ratho and I was helping to judge.
Sun - had planned to go for a 9mile run up Clachnaben but really windy outside and I really couldn't be bothered. Having to clean van and shop etc for leaving on Wed morning.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks Andy.
The focus of my training is the Chester Marathon in October.
I have had a good week, low mileage, but virtually all racing and some great results.
M - 4 miles slow run.
T - 5k race, one second off PB for course, but quite happy as level crossing was down and had to use subway, which added a few seconds, feel like my speed it back.
W - rest.
T - 5k race, ran 18:29, 33 second 5k pb, super happy.
F - rest.
S - rest. Photographed a few club mates doing Turnslack fell race.
S - Cross Bay Half Marathon. Over the sands from Flookborough to Hest Bank. 1:31:24, top 20 finish, very happy as most people running 8 minutes plus slower than road pb, makes me think I am in better shape than when I ran 1:28 in March. I ran this race last year, but 28 and a half minutes slower.
Thanks Andy.
The focus of my training is the Chester Marathon in October.
I have had a good week, low mileage, but virtually all racing and some great results.
M - 4 miles slow run.
T - 5k race, one second off PB for course, but quite happy as level crossing was down and had to use subway, which added a few seconds, feel like my speed it back.
W - rest.
T - 5k race, ran 18:29, 33 second 5k pb, super happy.
F - rest.
S - rest. Photographed a few club mates doing Turnslack fell race.
S - Cross Bay Half Marathon. Over the sands from Flookborough to Hest Bank. 1:31:24, top 20 finish, very happy as most people running 8 minutes plus slower than road pb, makes me think I am in better shape than when I ran 1:28 in March. I ran this race last year, but 28 and a half minutes slower.
In reply to AJM: thanks andy.
yes, last week was first run in ages. went out on bike this morning, discovered i am very unfit. going up hills is hard! otherwise nothing really (although had a nice walk round burbage yesterday as in the area).
too much drinking, not enough exercise. need to sort it out (but stay patient and build things up slowly).
yes, last week was first run in ages. went out on bike this morning, discovered i am very unfit. going up hills is hard! otherwise nothing really (although had a nice walk round burbage yesterday as in the area).
too much drinking, not enough exercise. need to sort it out (but stay patient and build things up slowly).
In reply to The New NickB: That's a great time on the Cross Bay Half. Was it windy out there?
In reply to AJM: Quite busy, the last couple of boudering sessions were a bit half-hearted...blame the heat to some extent, or maybe not enough rest
M: Run 4.5 miles
T:
W: Bell Hagg - usual circuit
T: Stanage App North - Bagged a new V4 problem (1/5 STG)
F: Rubicon - Tried Millers Tale (SS); felt initially good while warming up and remembering the moves, but faded quickly, a strenuous problem for me
S: Run 5 miles (walked another 5 in the afternoon)
S: Almscliff - Tried the Crucifix Traverse and a few others. Will need a dedicated session on a cooler day
STG: Climb 5 new V4 or above problems (E.g. Traverse into Go West, Crucifix trav, Millers Tale SS) 1 DONE
Enter some local running events: Mini MM, 10 k, Park Run etc.
MTG: Run 50 minute 10 k in Autumn
LTG: Lead Grade IV in winter season, Complete a Alpine "D" route next year
M: Run 4.5 miles
T:
W: Bell Hagg - usual circuit
T: Stanage App North - Bagged a new V4 problem (1/5 STG)
F: Rubicon - Tried Millers Tale (SS); felt initially good while warming up and remembering the moves, but faded quickly, a strenuous problem for me
S: Run 5 miles (walked another 5 in the afternoon)
S: Almscliff - Tried the Crucifix Traverse and a few others. Will need a dedicated session on a cooler day
STG: Climb 5 new V4 or above problems (E.g. Traverse into Go West, Crucifix trav, Millers Tale SS) 1 DONE
Enter some local running events: Mini MM, 10 k, Park Run etc.
MTG: Run 50 minute 10 k in Autumn
LTG: Lead Grade IV in winter season, Complete a Alpine "D" route next year
In reply to AJM:
No idea about the minutes. Doubt it I'd imagine Martin K will probably do them when he's back in work next week. When I know where they are, I'll send you the link.
The Sistine Ceiling is a controversial route. It's in Giant's Cave (p63-65) which is as the name suggests is a rather large cave. It was (I think) put up as a sport route with 5 bolts, which were then removed. That was in 1993 which kicked off the original bolt debate on the Gower. Personally I think that there are other large overhanging sport routes on the Gower, so what is a trad crag should be left alone. There is a spread of routes there from HVS to E7 so it's not just clip-ups.
No idea about the minutes. Doubt it I'd imagine Martin K will probably do them when he's back in work next week. When I know where they are, I'll send you the link.
The Sistine Ceiling is a controversial route. It's in Giant's Cave (p63-65) which is as the name suggests is a rather large cave. It was (I think) put up as a sport route with 5 bolts, which were then removed. That was in 1993 which kicked off the original bolt debate on the Gower. Personally I think that there are other large overhanging sport routes on the Gower, so what is a trad crag should be left alone. There is a spread of routes there from HVS to E7 so it's not just clip-ups.
In reply to Sonya Mc:
I really hope you have a good trip. It's really frustrating when you've planned hard for a big trip and things go wrong, so you have my sympathies.
> So, plan is to drive to Termignon and play around in the Haute Maurienne, maybe move on to play on something bigger and if hubby is feeling good and well, then possibly nip over to Italy and the Monte Rosa.
>
>
I really hope you have a good trip. It's really frustrating when you've planned hard for a big trip and things go wrong, so you have my sympathies.
In reply to Steve John B:
The last five miles had a strong headwind, mile 12 was particularly bad.
> (In reply to The New NickB) That's a great time on the Cross Bay Half. Was it windy out there?
The last five miles had a strong headwind, mile 12 was particularly bad.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy. Topsy-turvy week for me this time:
Monday: Bouldering session - Linked the V7 in 2 sections but really annoyingly split a tip on the first proper go at it. grrr. Wadded it in tape and let out my annoyance by doing endurance circuits until I actually threw up.
Tuesday: Bouldering session - more endurance circuits, didn't throw up after same volume! (but did collpase in a heap)
Wednesday: Bouldering session - yet more endurance circuits. Finished pumped and out of breath but not as bad as yesterday.
Thursday: Day off. Got an email mid afternoon inviting me on a trip to Portland over the weekend. Had no reason to turn it down so I said ok!
Friday: Saw friends in London and kipped on a climbing partner's floor.
Saturday: Drove to Portland and did 5 routes from 6a+ to 6b+ with varying success. First rock routes since November!
Sunday: Absolutely knackered (and sunburnt) but managed to get a couple of 6's done.
I'm here in Portland for the next week and will hopefully be able to give a run down of success, failure and their reasons and maybe some more goals next week. Obviously the V7 goal this week and next is off - but to be honest I don't care!
Cheers Andy. Topsy-turvy week for me this time:
Monday: Bouldering session - Linked the V7 in 2 sections but really annoyingly split a tip on the first proper go at it. grrr. Wadded it in tape and let out my annoyance by doing endurance circuits until I actually threw up.
Tuesday: Bouldering session - more endurance circuits, didn't throw up after same volume! (but did collpase in a heap)
Wednesday: Bouldering session - yet more endurance circuits. Finished pumped and out of breath but not as bad as yesterday.
Thursday: Day off. Got an email mid afternoon inviting me on a trip to Portland over the weekend. Had no reason to turn it down so I said ok!
Friday: Saw friends in London and kipped on a climbing partner's floor.
Saturday: Drove to Portland and did 5 routes from 6a+ to 6b+ with varying success. First rock routes since November!
Sunday: Absolutely knackered (and sunburnt) but managed to get a couple of 6's done.
I'm here in Portland for the next week and will hopefully be able to give a run down of success, failure and their reasons and maybe some more goals next week. Obviously the V7 goal this week and next is off - but to be honest I don't care!
In reply to mattrm:
Just got home and had a look, it was the photo I was thinking of. I wouldn't really want to pass much comment on the crag or route without having actually been there, but big roof 7cish sport climbs are a fairly rare breed in the UK if the roof is any significant size (more than a body length or so, which the photo makes it look like), and will climb fairly differently to an overhanging wall...
But yeah, who knows. I'll leave it to those who know the area better than me.
Just got home and had a look, it was the photo I was thinking of. I wouldn't really want to pass much comment on the crag or route without having actually been there, but big roof 7cish sport climbs are a fairly rare breed in the UK if the roof is any significant size (more than a body length or so, which the photo makes it look like), and will climb fairly differently to an overhanging wall...
But yeah, who knows. I'll leave it to those who know the area better than me.
In reply to AJM:
M & T - Nothing
W - about 2/3 hours bouldering at the Breck.
T - Nothing
F - Traveling from Liverpool to Fort William
S - up at 4:30am getting ready for the 8am start on Ben Nevis
- then onto Scarfell Pike
S - 2:50am start on Snowdon (watched the sun rise on the summit, it was beautiful)
Challenge complete in 23hr 30mins (pretty much bang on), minibus was limited to 60mph, so we did pretty well in my opinion. My legs are a mess right now.
M & T - Nothing
W - about 2/3 hours bouldering at the Breck.
T - Nothing
F - Traveling from Liverpool to Fort William
S - up at 4:30am getting ready for the 8am start on Ben Nevis
- then onto Scarfell Pike
S - 2:50am start on Snowdon (watched the sun rise on the summit, it was beautiful)
Challenge complete in 23hr 30mins (pretty much bang on), minibus was limited to 60mph, so we did pretty well in my opinion. My legs are a mess right now.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy.
Nothing to report except 1 session on my own at Eskdale which resulted in my first 7A+, which was nice :0)
Got tomorrow night and Tue night left and i am going to St Bees tomorrow to try Hueco Crack cave Start. If i get that tomorrow, after i've finished weeping at leaving St Bees behind, i will go to Bowderstone on Tue eve and try to get Picnic Sarcastic.
Fingers crossed.
I then go away for a few days travelling round saying goodbye to folk before flying on the 2nd. It will be a quiet couple of weeks but i am going to keep on with fat reduction for looking good on the beach ;0) It seems to be going OK so far and if i look at myself in the mirror with squinty eyes in a certain light i can convince myself i can see some 6 pack muscles under there somewhere.
Cheers Andy.
Nothing to report except 1 session on my own at Eskdale which resulted in my first 7A+, which was nice :0)
Got tomorrow night and Tue night left and i am going to St Bees tomorrow to try Hueco Crack cave Start. If i get that tomorrow, after i've finished weeping at leaving St Bees behind, i will go to Bowderstone on Tue eve and try to get Picnic Sarcastic.
Fingers crossed.
I then go away for a few days travelling round saying goodbye to folk before flying on the 2nd. It will be a quiet couple of weeks but i am going to keep on with fat reduction for looking good on the beach ;0) It seems to be going OK so far and if i look at myself in the mirror with squinty eyes in a certain light i can convince myself i can see some 6 pack muscles under there somewhere.
In reply to AJM:
So my visit to Pakistan didn't work out, which I've only slightly mixed feelings about. But work has been very tough and busy, and I've not been 100% energetic. So haven't done anything.
I do believe this is what they call a nadir. Oh well, the only way is up...
So my visit to Pakistan didn't work out, which I've only slightly mixed feelings about. But work has been very tough and busy, and I've not been 100% energetic. So haven't done anything.
I do believe this is what they call a nadir. Oh well, the only way is up...
In reply to mattrm: Awwww thanks I was feeling really down in the dumps about it all, but getting quite excited again now. Mountains, snow, woop woop!
In reply to AJM:
STG (August):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above. Tick - Sort of
RP 6b+ outside Tick and Onsighted one
Onsight E1
MTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
LTG March 2011
TBC ..
Last weeks goals:
At least two sessions Tick
M: Rest
T: Core. 130 movements. Rotator cuff exercises
W: Rokt 4 hours ish. Bouldered about abit. Laps on the lead wall. flashed a 6b+ on the lead wall repeated a steep 6b+. Worked the 7a!
T: core. 200 movements
F Rest
S: A55 Sports Climbing
Penmaen Head Onsighted 5 and 5+ to warm up. Set to work on the 6b+ climbed bolt to bolt sestting the draws to remind me of the moves. did it one fall. Rested then went for the RP. Clipped the second bolt and then powered on cocked up the sequence and fell off. Pulled the rope and went for it straight away got it first 6b+. Ended by onsighting a 6a then had a lunch break
Csatle in Quarry. Saw a slabby 6b+ and thought I can give it a go I went bolt to bolt on it setting the draws. Managed to do it onsight YYFY. Then onsighted a 5+ and a 6a.
S: Dinas Mot. Alt lead VS onsight to warm up leading pitch 1 and 2 linked. I then alt lead my first multipitch HVS. I lead the last pitch a sustained 5a slab pitch only ruined by taking a fall on second.
This weeks goals:
At least two sessions
The most sucessful week of climbing ever. A total YYFY of a week. A 6b+ onsight was not something I thought I could achieve and I did awasome. Also big multipitch was nice to do very different to my usual single pitch grit routes.
> grubes - sounds like a good week, and cheers for the beta on Rubicon
Thanks and no worries. This week was better STG (August):
Multipitch/long pitch (30m+) HVS or above. Tick - Sort of
RP 6b+ outside Tick and Onsighted one
Onsight E1
MTG end of 2011:
Get solid at E1 onsight
no major injuries
boulder Font 6C
RP 6c outside (el chorro november?)
LTG March 2011
TBC ..
Last weeks goals:
At least two sessions Tick
M: Rest
T: Core. 130 movements. Rotator cuff exercises
W: Rokt 4 hours ish. Bouldered about abit. Laps on the lead wall. flashed a 6b+ on the lead wall repeated a steep 6b+. Worked the 7a!
T: core. 200 movements
F Rest
S: A55 Sports Climbing
Penmaen Head Onsighted 5 and 5+ to warm up. Set to work on the 6b+ climbed bolt to bolt sestting the draws to remind me of the moves. did it one fall. Rested then went for the RP. Clipped the second bolt and then powered on cocked up the sequence and fell off. Pulled the rope and went for it straight away got it first 6b+. Ended by onsighting a 6a then had a lunch break
Csatle in Quarry. Saw a slabby 6b+ and thought I can give it a go I went bolt to bolt on it setting the draws. Managed to do it onsight YYFY. Then onsighted a 5+ and a 6a.
S: Dinas Mot. Alt lead VS onsight to warm up leading pitch 1 and 2 linked. I then alt lead my first multipitch HVS. I lead the last pitch a sustained 5a slab pitch only ruined by taking a fall on second.
This weeks goals:
At least two sessions
The most sucessful week of climbing ever. A total YYFY of a week. A 6b+ onsight was not something I thought I could achieve and I did awasome. Also big multipitch was nice to do very different to my usual single pitch grit routes.
In reply to AJM:
Indoor/training priorities
<STG> - pre-October
<MTG> - 2011
<LTG>
<BHAG>
M: Nowt
T: Cheddar. Lots of seepage so we ended up on the Remnant where some routes were still dry. Dogged up Spy in the Sky (7b/+), and had a few goes working the crux move. Had a redpoint and peeled off the last hard move - so close! Hopefully down tonight to try and finish it off.
W: Warehouse, Gloucester. Fingers a bit shredded. Did 2x "2 laps on the boulder" as aerocap, then did some core and pushups for the rest of the session
T: Nothing I don't think
F: Warehouse, Gloucester. Did 2 laps on the boulder to warm up. Then went downstairs and did a few routes. Onsighted a 6c, did one of last week's failed 6cs clean and, in theory, onsighted my first 6c+
S: London, nothing
S: London, nothing
Pretty good week all round really. Psyche is back.
Indoor/training priorities
- AnCap - 10-20 move circuits
- Regular fingerboarding over the year
- Bike odometer record - 503km
- Rolling average weight/body fat - 76.6kg 15.5%
<STG> - pre-October
- Get some classic trad in - some more E2/3 routes. Venues of interest - Pembroke, Gogarth, local crags, Lakes, N coast Devon/Cornwall (ticked: 1x Pembroke E2)
- Maintain good amounts of sport onsighting/flashing to keep lead head in good shape. Regular onsight attempts in the 6c-7a bracket, or flash attempts on 6c+-7a+.
- Fill in some of the 7b/+ slots on the 7c pyramid. Visit some new venues (inc South Wales and maybe Peak) and get some quick ticks in
<MTG> - 2011
- Complete 7c pyramid (currently completed 4/8 x 7a+, 2/4 x 7b, 1/2 x 7b+, 0/1 x 7c)
- Aim for 15 6c or above onsight/flash, moving to a 1:2 ratio or better (currently at 3x 6c o/s, 6x 6c flash, 1x 6c+ o/s, 2x 7a flash, 1x 7a o/s)
- Actually do some DWS this year
<LTG>
- Well rounded E3 leader, tackling routes in committing locations
- E4 onsight
- 7c redpoints at Cheddar and Portland
- 7a/+ onsights at hard continental crags
<BHAG>
- Big mountain routes like Tempi Moderne, Comici etc
- E5 onsights
- 8a/+ redpoint
- 7b/+ onsights at hard continental crags
- Some big silly bike ride like Pyrenees coast to coast or Tour du Mont Blanc or something
M: Nowt
T: Cheddar. Lots of seepage so we ended up on the Remnant where some routes were still dry. Dogged up Spy in the Sky (7b/+), and had a few goes working the crux move. Had a redpoint and peeled off the last hard move - so close! Hopefully down tonight to try and finish it off.
W: Warehouse, Gloucester. Fingers a bit shredded. Did 2x "2 laps on the boulder" as aerocap, then did some core and pushups for the rest of the session
T: Nothing I don't think
F: Warehouse, Gloucester. Did 2 laps on the boulder to warm up. Then went downstairs and did a few routes. Onsighted a 6c, did one of last week's failed 6cs clean and, in theory, onsighted my first 6c+
S: London, nothing
S: London, nothing
Pretty good week all round really. Psyche is back.
In reply to AJM:
Good to hear.
I hope tonights works out for you and congrats on the onsight.
> (In reply to AJM)
> Pretty good week all round really. Psyche is back.
> Pretty good week all round really. Psyche is back.
Good to hear.
I hope tonights works out for you and congrats on the onsight.
In reply to grubes:
Cheers grubes, and Congrats on your week too!
In reply to biscuit:
Nice one. Good luck getting the tick in tonight too.
Cheers grubes, and Congrats on your week too!
In reply to biscuit:
Nice one. Good luck getting the tick in tonight too.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, although that 7b traverse I was talking about I haven't ticked yet, need to complete the link up.
STG (by end of 2011): wasted youth, something stupid and fill out the 7b+ pyramid (currently 6/8 7a, 3/4 7a+, 1/2 7b, 0/1 7b+)
Tues: Indoor routes - still lacking stamina (as always) but had a better go on the hard 7a+ I fell off last week and got very close to a 7b which should go next time.
Wed: injury prevention exercises
Thurs: indoor bouldering - nice set of problems on the comp wall at prisonbloc, got close to a V7 and got a couple of V6s quickly. Flashed most of the V5s.
Sat: Malham - First time back since early April, after warming up on consenting put a rope on something stupid and had a few goes to work out sequence. I found the foot sequences even more technical than usual with lots of subtle changes making a huge difference. Think I've settled on a sequence so will get on the lead next chance I get.
Excited to get back to Malham and happy that despite all the time off I feel like I'll be able to tick something stupid next time I'm there.
Cheers Andy, although that 7b traverse I was talking about I haven't ticked yet, need to complete the link up.
STG (by end of 2011): wasted youth, something stupid and fill out the 7b+ pyramid (currently 6/8 7a, 3/4 7a+, 1/2 7b, 0/1 7b+)
Tues: Indoor routes - still lacking stamina (as always) but had a better go on the hard 7a+ I fell off last week and got very close to a 7b which should go next time.
Wed: injury prevention exercises
Thurs: indoor bouldering - nice set of problems on the comp wall at prisonbloc, got close to a V7 and got a couple of V6s quickly. Flashed most of the V5s.
Sat: Malham - First time back since early April, after warming up on consenting put a rope on something stupid and had a few goes to work out sequence. I found the foot sequences even more technical than usual with lots of subtle changes making a huge difference. Think I've settled on a sequence so will get on the lead next chance I get.
Excited to get back to Malham and happy that despite all the time off I feel like I'll be able to tick something stupid next time I'm there.
In reply to Eagle River:
My bad - must have misread your post. Good to see you haven't lost the Malham "way" after the break
My bad - must have misread your post. Good to see you haven't lost the Malham "way" after the break
In reply to AJM:
M-Malham, Warmed up by running up consenting adults a few times. Then equipped Raindogs. Wow, what a route! Took me quite a while to work but had it sussed. After a rest I gave it another quick run on TR and linked it all in 2 big sections.
T-Malham, Warmed up on free and even easier. Was planning on jumping on Raindogs, but it was occupied and I wasn't feeling too great. Jumped on Wasted Youth instead. Messed up the O/S quite high up due to a silly mistake. Did it next go though. Great route with some great holds! Went to Kilnsey in the evening and I tried to O/S Comedy and blew it pretty low down. I was then a little too tired to get it clean. Gave it 2 RP's and got to whisker within the last few moves. I am so much lazier when I'm sport climbing! It's too easier to just rest!
W-Roaches. Bouldered up to v8.
T-Rest
F-Indoors, working the new v11 on the roof. Great problem. Managed to do it from standing inc the 2 cruxes. Probs about v9/10ish. Just need to add the sit and 1 more crux! Very tired after and looking forward to some rest days.
S-Work
S-Work
M-Malham, Warmed up by running up consenting adults a few times. Then equipped Raindogs. Wow, what a route! Took me quite a while to work but had it sussed. After a rest I gave it another quick run on TR and linked it all in 2 big sections.
T-Malham, Warmed up on free and even easier. Was planning on jumping on Raindogs, but it was occupied and I wasn't feeling too great. Jumped on Wasted Youth instead. Messed up the O/S quite high up due to a silly mistake. Did it next go though. Great route with some great holds! Went to Kilnsey in the evening and I tried to O/S Comedy and blew it pretty low down. I was then a little too tired to get it clean. Gave it 2 RP's and got to whisker within the last few moves. I am so much lazier when I'm sport climbing! It's too easier to just rest!
W-Roaches. Bouldered up to v8.
T-Rest
F-Indoors, working the new v11 on the roof. Great problem. Managed to do it from standing inc the 2 cruxes. Probs about v9/10ish. Just need to add the sit and 1 more crux! Very tired after and looking forward to some rest days.
S-Work
S-Work
Right, I'm joining back in again. There are two distinct periods when I struggle to post regularly:
1) If I'm injured. However, by posting regularly and modifying my goals to recovery I've previously enjoyed good results.
2) If I'm doing really well. I've just discovered this one, this is the first period of sustained success I think I've ever had and I think I feel a bit shy of bragging about it which is why I've stopped posting. However, I think it's important to show the success I've had with a regimented and restrained build up of running mileage.
So, a quick recap. Since the North Downs 30k on the 19th June I did an easy week followed by the Saunders MM. I came 13th on Bowfell with my partner on a very tough course. I did 15 miles the next week for recovery, 25 the week after that with a tough hilly long run on the downs. Then this week I ran the Clayton Downland Challenge, a 30 mile race with 900m of ascent and descent on the South Downs way, finishing 6th (behind two people who may yet be DNFed for going the wrong way) in a time of 4:12. (only 3 minutes behind 3rd) Three races in 5 weeks and good results in all of them. Chuffed.
M: rest
T: spin - 45 mins hard plus 2 miles run to gym
W: rest
T: 3.75 mile gentle run
F: rest
S: 20 mile easy bike ride (pub crawl)
S: 30 mile Downland Challenge. 6th out of 100+ in 4h 12 mins.
STG: go on holiday, let massive blister on heel heal and keep putting in consistent mileage
MTG: Enter some more races to give me structure so I can build on my successes.
LTG: Fast marathon - can I go sub 3? Got through the 26.2 well under 3:45 yesterday and that was after about 870m of up.
VLTG: more ultras, 50miles or so and then 100 miles in a day.
1) If I'm injured. However, by posting regularly and modifying my goals to recovery I've previously enjoyed good results.
2) If I'm doing really well. I've just discovered this one, this is the first period of sustained success I think I've ever had and I think I feel a bit shy of bragging about it which is why I've stopped posting. However, I think it's important to show the success I've had with a regimented and restrained build up of running mileage.
So, a quick recap. Since the North Downs 30k on the 19th June I did an easy week followed by the Saunders MM. I came 13th on Bowfell with my partner on a very tough course. I did 15 miles the next week for recovery, 25 the week after that with a tough hilly long run on the downs. Then this week I ran the Clayton Downland Challenge, a 30 mile race with 900m of ascent and descent on the South Downs way, finishing 6th (behind two people who may yet be DNFed for going the wrong way) in a time of 4:12. (only 3 minutes behind 3rd) Three races in 5 weeks and good results in all of them. Chuffed.
M: rest
T: spin - 45 mins hard plus 2 miles run to gym
W: rest
T: 3.75 mile gentle run
F: rest
S: 20 mile easy bike ride (pub crawl)
S: 30 mile Downland Challenge. 6th out of 100+ in 4h 12 mins.
STG: go on holiday, let massive blister on heel heal and keep putting in consistent mileage
MTG: Enter some more races to give me structure so I can build on my successes.
LTG: Fast marathon - can I go sub 3? Got through the 26.2 well under 3:45 yesterday and that was after about 870m of up.
VLTG: more ultras, 50miles or so and then 100 miles in a day.
In reply to Eric the Red:
Yes.
More of the same for me. Felt as sick as a dog and quite bloody miserable watching the highlights of Ras Yr Wyddfa on TV last night.
I may get to race next weekend, depends on how well I behave this week I guess!
M: 3mile trail run
T: Nothing
W: 9mile fast trail run Newborough Forest. 6:40pace. 10K in 39mins.
T: Nothing - work and sick child
F: Nothing - work and sick child
S: AM 5mile walk PM 12.5mile trail run Little Orme and Great Orme x2. approx 500m ascent. 8:00pace. New trainers with insoles "to help prevent over pronation" so the shop assistant told me.
S: AM 6.5mile walk PM 3mile walk. Too mentally tired by evening to go for a run.
Worst mileage for a LONG time. However, at least I had gone out with more pace so helps to compensate a bit.
> LTG: Fast marathon - can I go sub 3?
Yes.
More of the same for me. Felt as sick as a dog and quite bloody miserable watching the highlights of Ras Yr Wyddfa on TV last night.
I may get to race next weekend, depends on how well I behave this week I guess!
M: 3mile trail run
T: Nothing
W: 9mile fast trail run Newborough Forest. 6:40pace. 10K in 39mins.
T: Nothing - work and sick child
F: Nothing - work and sick child
S: AM 5mile walk PM 12.5mile trail run Little Orme and Great Orme x2. approx 500m ascent. 8:00pace. New trainers with insoles "to help prevent over pronation" so the shop assistant told me.
S: AM 6.5mile walk PM 3mile walk. Too mentally tired by evening to go for a run.
Worst mileage for a LONG time. However, at least I had gone out with more pace so helps to compensate a bit.
In reply to Thickhead:
Watch out for the insoles, don't go crazy in them to start with.
> (In reply to Eric the Red)
>
> [...]
>
> Yes.
>
What makes you say that? Are you being motivational or are you basing it on my results?>
> [...]
>
> Yes.
>
Watch out for the insoles, don't go crazy in them to start with.
Cheers AJM
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: ill
T: 3x DB complex, 4m run, BM (pull-ups & one arm max hangs - best session yet). core & theraband
W: 1 mile swim
T: Bouldering at Notts wall
F: rest
S: Bouldering at the churnet
S: Should have gone surfing or climbing but elbow was feeling sore so 4.5m run, theraband, 3xDB complex & core
Quite a good week, feeling more hopeful that my aims aren't too ambitious, although I didn't get any more ticks at the weekend I am close on a number of problems.
Goals (2011):
10 x 6C (4 done)
5 x 7A (1 done)
Any 7A+ or ideally a 7B
Injury rehab/prevention:
Stick with elbow/shoulder theraband work
Work on knee and up running mileage again
M: ill
T: 3x DB complex, 4m run, BM (pull-ups & one arm max hangs - best session yet). core & theraband
W: 1 mile swim
T: Bouldering at Notts wall
F: rest
S: Bouldering at the churnet
S: Should have gone surfing or climbing but elbow was feeling sore so 4.5m run, theraband, 3xDB complex & core
Quite a good week, feeling more hopeful that my aims aren't too ambitious, although I didn't get any more ticks at the weekend I am close on a number of problems.
In reply to Eagle River:
How you clipping the chains on Something Stupid? I know you can apparently stretch from the undercut with some high feet, but I think I've kind of decided to make the extra hard moves to get to the jug above and right. Just for some added spice!
How you clipping the chains on Something Stupid? I know you can apparently stretch from the undercut with some high feet, but I think I've kind of decided to make the extra hard moves to get to the jug above and right. Just for some added spice!
In reply to Eric the Red:
Bit of both
Seriously though, if you ran 3:45 for a marathon on trails and that level of gradient you've got a good baseline. Maybe you wouldn't run sub-3 next week but you've def got something you could aim for next year (especially, by your own admission, you haven't managed a sufficient sustained level of training).
Insoles... Not sure about them really. They do provide better cushioning though. Shop man got another 15quid out of me I guess.
Bit of both
Seriously though, if you ran 3:45 for a marathon on trails and that level of gradient you've got a good baseline. Maybe you wouldn't run sub-3 next week but you've def got something you could aim for next year (especially, by your own admission, you haven't managed a sufficient sustained level of training).
Insoles... Not sure about them really. They do provide better cushioning though. Shop man got another 15quid out of me I guess.
In reply to catt:
I was thinking of clipping it from the small-ish but quite positive crimp directly underneath the belay as when practicing links I've been able to hold it for a few seconds. Not tried it yet though and could be looking at some air time on the redpoint if it doesn't work! I wasn't aware there was a higher jug out right so that might be the backup plan as it didn't feel like I could hold that position off the undercut statically long enough to clip.
I was thinking of clipping it from the small-ish but quite positive crimp directly underneath the belay as when practicing links I've been able to hold it for a few seconds. Not tried it yet though and could be looking at some air time on the redpoint if it doesn't work! I wasn't aware there was a higher jug out right so that might be the backup plan as it didn't feel like I could hold that position off the undercut statically long enough to clip.
Thank you AJM.
In reply to Mark Torrance:
Are you thinking of the last 3 weeks of my training, when I was ill? I believe I did quite well to be ill then, rather than earlier in the year - by then I had done the big mileage and long training days, and would have been reducing the time I spent training (though not so dramatically as I actually did.)
Targets:
at least 5 new Munro ticks by the end of the year (stretch goal: 10)
lead at least one route outdoors
I have a confession to make... I've entered Aberfeldy Middle Distance triathlon... I'd really like to do this race sometime, and this seems the obvious time to do it given all the training I have been doing. The bloke would like to do a couple of shorter distance tris as well and my initial reaction is "Oh, if you are racing I will too..." but I guess if I really want to get away for a weekend or two I will have to be a bit demanding and say what I want.
M: nothing
Tu: triathlon club 10 mile bicycle time trial: 28:56 which is a PB. I know, I could have been climbing, but I really wanted to do the TT...
W: triathlon club run and swim
Th: went for a run
F: went swimming after work
Sa: went cycling with the bloke - about 50km in a bit over two hours. Was a lovely day, enjoyed it.
Su: ran 10km ish (garmin was playing up) in 1 hour.
In reply to Mark Torrance:
> I missed saying congratulations to IronwomanFimm. Awesome achievement, particularly given how interrupted your training seemed to be.
Thank you! Are you thinking of the last 3 weeks of my training, when I was ill? I believe I did quite well to be ill then, rather than earlier in the year - by then I had done the big mileage and long training days, and would have been reducing the time I spent training (though not so dramatically as I actually did.)
Targets:
at least 5 new Munro ticks by the end of the year (stretch goal: 10)
lead at least one route outdoors
I have a confession to make... I've entered Aberfeldy Middle Distance triathlon... I'd really like to do this race sometime, and this seems the obvious time to do it given all the training I have been doing. The bloke would like to do a couple of shorter distance tris as well and my initial reaction is "Oh, if you are racing I will too..." but I guess if I really want to get away for a weekend or two I will have to be a bit demanding and say what I want.
M: nothing
Tu: triathlon club 10 mile bicycle time trial: 28:56 which is a PB. I know, I could have been climbing, but I really wanted to do the TT...
W: triathlon club run and swim
Th: went for a run
F: went swimming after work
Sa: went cycling with the bloke - about 50km in a bit over two hours. Was a lovely day, enjoyed it.
Su: ran 10km ish (garmin was playing up) in 1 hour.
In reply to Eagle River:
Ah, I know what you mean, I can't hold that crimp long enough either. But if you get it with your right, you then make a reach out left to a not fantastic pocket, and then a big move back up and right to a massive but slightly hidden jug, leaving the chains around waist height. It's the jug you'd aim for if you were to carry on up The Groove or Unjustified, so good to get it down for future!
Ah, I know what you mean, I can't hold that crimp long enough either. But if you get it with your right, you then make a reach out left to a not fantastic pocket, and then a big move back up and right to a massive but slightly hidden jug, leaving the chains around waist height. It's the jug you'd aim for if you were to carry on up The Groove or Unjustified, so good to get it down for future!
In reply to catt:
Oh yes, I remember the little dish pocket out left as I thought the crimp underneath was the better option out of those two holds. I'll have a look for the hidden jug next time.
Oh yes, I remember the little dish pocket out left as I thought the crimp underneath was the better option out of those two holds. I'll have a look for the hidden jug next time.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
By Sept 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham or Kilnsey?
By end 2011
8a
Last week aimed to target Strength and PE.
M - rest
T - Circuits @ Arch. Attempts at 80 move circuit(8a?). Now got in two linked sections excluding the first 3 moves. 2nd half clean and more solid than last week. 1st half still bloody hard and stopper moves when pumped to enter the 2nd half. Awesome
W - rest
T - Bouldering @ Castle. Flashed a cool V5, first for a while. Worked threshold moves on V6 & V7.
F - rest
S - rest
S - Bouldering @ Castle. Work on threshold moves V6-7 again.
A decent week performance wise, though not so disciplined with the training. Had hoped to get a finger board session in. Have to settle with attempting hard moves for the strength aspect.
Cheers Andy,
By Sept 2011
French 7c - Possibles... El Chocco at Brean. Keyboard Wall at Battleship. Something at Malham or Kilnsey?
By end 2011
8a
Last week aimed to target Strength and PE.
M - rest
T - Circuits @ Arch. Attempts at 80 move circuit(8a?). Now got in two linked sections excluding the first 3 moves. 2nd half clean and more solid than last week. 1st half still bloody hard and stopper moves when pumped to enter the 2nd half. Awesome
W - rest
T - Bouldering @ Castle. Flashed a cool V5, first for a while. Worked threshold moves on V6 & V7.
F - rest
S - rest
S - Bouldering @ Castle. Work on threshold moves V6-7 again.
A decent week performance wise, though not so disciplined with the training. Had hoped to get a finger board session in. Have to settle with attempting hard moves for the strength aspect.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy,
A bit busier week this week, even manage 2 days outside.
Mon:
Tues:
Wed:
Thur: New routes at wall, onsight/flash all I tried except 1. Still got the hard one to go though.... Tuesday this week will tell.
Fri
Sat: Baggy point ticked a number of classics, all within comfort zone, but as for previous weekend, trad confidence and gear are good. Next time I need to push it a bit more.
Sunday: Cheddar: Overshoot wall for a couple of hours, OS 7a "whose line is it anyway" what a gift, found it straight forwards. Then dogged Comfortably numb 7a+, just one stopper move, and stopper it is! All in the feet I guess.
Have a couple of not a lot of climbing weeks to come, then a series of exciting weeks with some great things planned. Really need to tie on to harder stuff!
Cheers, Kev
Cheers Andy,
A bit busier week this week, even manage 2 days outside.
Mon:
Tues:
Wed:
Thur: New routes at wall, onsight/flash all I tried except 1. Still got the hard one to go though.... Tuesday this week will tell.
Fri
Sat: Baggy point ticked a number of classics, all within comfort zone, but as for previous weekend, trad confidence and gear are good. Next time I need to push it a bit more.
Sunday: Cheddar: Overshoot wall for a couple of hours, OS 7a "whose line is it anyway" what a gift, found it straight forwards. Then dogged Comfortably numb 7a+, just one stopper move, and stopper it is! All in the feet I guess.
Have a couple of not a lot of climbing weeks to come, then a series of exciting weeks with some great things planned. Really need to tie on to harder stuff!
Cheers, Kev
In reply to catt:
I really recommend Comedy at Kilnsey. Despite being absolutely knackered and unable to send it, had soooo much fun! It's amazing. That bit of rock shouldn't be in the UK. Someone has stolen it from the continent and brought it back across the channel.
I really recommend Comedy at Kilnsey. Despite being absolutely knackered and unable to send it, had soooo much fun! It's amazing. That bit of rock shouldn't be in the UK. Someone has stolen it from the continent and brought it back across the channel.
In reply to Eric the Red: I'd post about the good, too many do the oppoosite though and not talk about the bad. I think its important to list both, bad make good races good, but also its good to know most runners have crap days..
m: rest. felt tired and couldn't face a run
t: Moel CYnghorion 9 miles, 800m ascent fell run
w: Sining Tor Fell race, 12th, awful, terrible run.
t: 2am: Paddy Buckly support, 7 miles, 1000m ascent. pm: 5 miles up to half way and back on wyddfa
f: rest/golf..
s: am: 3 miles steady. Mid Morning. 6 miles warm up on bike up and down pass. Snowdon Race. 2 miles hardish warm up then race, 10 miles, 1000m ascent. 1:16:20, pb by nearly 3.5 minutes, no idea where that came from..Need to restart training again now, a lot of big races, most went OK, the poor ones were in small races confirming that I don't get myself 'up' for some races and don't enjoy them the same. But think they are of good training benefit. Weds race definitly helped me get my legs going for Saturday.
s; Travel to US again..
m: rest. felt tired and couldn't face a run
t: Moel CYnghorion 9 miles, 800m ascent fell run
w: Sining Tor Fell race, 12th, awful, terrible run.
t: 2am: Paddy Buckly support, 7 miles, 1000m ascent. pm: 5 miles up to half way and back on wyddfa
f: rest/golf..
s: am: 3 miles steady. Mid Morning. 6 miles warm up on bike up and down pass. Snowdon Race. 2 miles hardish warm up then race, 10 miles, 1000m ascent. 1:16:20, pb by nearly 3.5 minutes, no idea where that came from..Need to restart training again now, a lot of big races, most went OK, the poor ones were in small races confirming that I don't get myself 'up' for some races and don't enjoy them the same. But think they are of good training benefit. Weds race definitly helped me get my legs going for Saturday.
s; Travel to US again..
In reply to AJM: Thanks AJM.
Bit of a mixed week. Focus was on strength and power, but opportunity arose so went to Portland for the weekend.
Mon - nowt
Tue - Bouldering at Westway. 2.5h bouldering, mostly working a number of the V6's in the fridge. Finished by campusing, 1-4-1-4-1 on small rungs (leading off with same hand twice, alternating hands between sets). Felt quite strong.
Wed - nowt
Thu - Bouldering at WW. Second thursday session in a row where I've been terribly fatigued. 2h bouldering, ditched the normal campusing in favor of foot-on campusing.
Fri - nowt
Sat - Battleship, Portland. Onsight of No Man is an Island to warm-up (nice 6c with a pretty intense start). Put up clips on The Racing Line and had three work-sessions with some easier routes interspersed.
Sun - Battleship, Portland. Onsight of Always Have the Edge to warm-up (another 6c with a pretty intense start but very nice route). Three more goes on RL. Got somewhat closer, essentially managed it with a rest mid-crux. Not very close to actually sending it tough.
So a mixed week. Certainly not a stellar performance at Portland, in particular I felt that I got tired and lost power (and skin!) very quickly on Saturday. And I found RL (which is in guide at 7b+) really quite tough. It's hard to compare routes that you've done at different times, but to me it felt a grade harder than Zinc Oxide Mountain and I must say, harder than an easy 7c like Hall of Mirrors. For pyramid purposes, I think I might count this as a 7c. Really good route tough, with an awesome balancey and power crux sequence. If anyone has done that route, I would love to trade some beta.
Goals:
Short-term: One more week of power, followed by three weeks of pe/endurance. Put together plan for endurance phase.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (2/4); 7b+ (7/8). Bring on-sight level up to 7a+ (around 7a now).
Long-term: onsight 8a (one must dream big)
Curious Yellow/plexiglass_nick: I'll be down at the Arch tomorrow night. Hope to see you there.
Bit of a mixed week. Focus was on strength and power, but opportunity arose so went to Portland for the weekend.
Mon - nowt
Tue - Bouldering at Westway. 2.5h bouldering, mostly working a number of the V6's in the fridge. Finished by campusing, 1-4-1-4-1 on small rungs (leading off with same hand twice, alternating hands between sets). Felt quite strong.
Wed - nowt
Thu - Bouldering at WW. Second thursday session in a row where I've been terribly fatigued. 2h bouldering, ditched the normal campusing in favor of foot-on campusing.
Fri - nowt
Sat - Battleship, Portland. Onsight of No Man is an Island to warm-up (nice 6c with a pretty intense start). Put up clips on The Racing Line and had three work-sessions with some easier routes interspersed.
Sun - Battleship, Portland. Onsight of Always Have the Edge to warm-up (another 6c with a pretty intense start but very nice route). Three more goes on RL. Got somewhat closer, essentially managed it with a rest mid-crux. Not very close to actually sending it tough.
So a mixed week. Certainly not a stellar performance at Portland, in particular I felt that I got tired and lost power (and skin!) very quickly on Saturday. And I found RL (which is in guide at 7b+) really quite tough. It's hard to compare routes that you've done at different times, but to me it felt a grade harder than Zinc Oxide Mountain and I must say, harder than an easy 7c like Hall of Mirrors. For pyramid purposes, I think I might count this as a 7c. Really good route tough, with an awesome balancey and power crux sequence. If anyone has done that route, I would love to trade some beta.
Goals:
Short-term: One more week of power, followed by three weeks of pe/endurance. Put together plan for endurance phase.
Medium-term (this year): Fill out base of 8a route pyramid. 7c+ (0/2); 7c (2/4); 7b+ (7/8). Bring on-sight level up to 7a+ (around 7a now).
Long-term: onsight 8a (one must dream big)
Curious Yellow/plexiglass_nick: I'll be down at the Arch tomorrow night. Hope to see you there.
In reply to AJM:
M:
T: Kilnsey, fairly poor attempts at Biological Need, I accept I'm not good enough to do it, but unlike some routes, I can't understand why it's any good or worth trying. A no-no for me.
W:
Th: Physio. hamstrings better, progress.
F:
Sat:
Sun: Chapel Head, two hours there, two hours back, ouch. Far too hot to climb well, failed on Interstella as a warm-up, then stuffed a route I onsighted last time, War Hero. Not a great day.
Got out, back OK but not great, hopefully improve next week.
M:
T: Kilnsey, fairly poor attempts at Biological Need, I accept I'm not good enough to do it, but unlike some routes, I can't understand why it's any good or worth trying. A no-no for me.
W:
Th: Physio. hamstrings better, progress.
F:
Sat:
Sun: Chapel Head, two hours there, two hours back, ouch. Far too hot to climb well, failed on Interstella as a warm-up, then stuffed a route I onsighted last time, War Hero. Not a great day.
Got out, back OK but not great, hopefully improve next week.
In reply to AJM:
Thanks, Andy, and it was pretty close between the top three as well...
http://www.nofussevents.co.uk/userfiles/File/10%20in%20the%20glen%202011%20...
Had a shocker this week, however... not running Mon, Tues, Wed for 'running' reasons (still tight in a couple of places) or Thurs, Fri (when I was wanting to get going again) with an altogether different problem. Then to Inverness for the weekend to see two good friends married and only back out for a much-needed run tonight (so at least I've got something 'logged' for next week). Nice to get climbing again on Wednesday evening despite the midges and a dirty route (did first three pitches of VS Autobahnausfahrt), but heading back to sunny Ardnamurchan tomorrow for a day in true crag heaven!
M: [67.1] Rest
T: [60.5] Rest
W: [55.6] Climbing at Polldubh
T: [53.0] Rest
F: [53.0] Rest
S: [0] Wedding near Inverness
S: [0] Visiting/heading home
Current Goals (going to start a new list for August):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June: BUST! (23RD FROM 154 IN 20:44:26)
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July: TICK (3RD MALE SOLO!)
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
> petestack - nice one on the result!
Thanks, Andy, and it was pretty close between the top three as well...
http://www.nofussevents.co.uk/userfiles/File/10%20in%20the%20glen%202011%20...
Had a shocker this week, however... not running Mon, Tues, Wed for 'running' reasons (still tight in a couple of places) or Thurs, Fri (when I was wanting to get going again) with an altogether different problem. Then to Inverness for the weekend to see two good friends married and only back out for a much-needed run tonight (so at least I've got something 'logged' for next week). Nice to get climbing again on Wednesday evening despite the midges and a dirty route (did first three pitches of VS Autobahnausfahrt), but heading back to sunny Ardnamurchan tomorrow for a day in true crag heaven!
M: [67.1] Rest
T: [60.5] Rest
W: [55.6] Climbing at Polldubh
T: [53.0] Rest
F: [53.0] Rest
S: [0] Wedding near Inverness
S: [0] Visiting/heading home
Current Goals (going to start a new list for August):
Winter ML Assessment, 14–18 February: TICK (PASSED)
More climbing (lots to do, but fancy Orion and Zero!): NEXT WINTER!
Highlander Mountain Marathon, 16–17 April: DONE (15TH FROM 22, A CLASS)
Highland Fling (Milngavie to Tyndrum, 53 miles), 30 April: TICK (51ST FROM 383 IN 9:53:48)
West Highland Way Race (95 miles, sub-20 or bust!), 18 June: BUST! (23RD FROM 154 IN 20:44:26)
No Fuss Events 10 in the Glen (10-hour trail race), 16 July: TICK (3RD MALE SOLO!)
Possible Rigby Round (if not squeezed out by 10 in the Glen)
In reply to AJM:
STG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July)
MTG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(4), 10*e1(9)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Hypertrophy (3/3)(3/3)
Mon: Core (173). Weights.
Tue: Bouldering @ Stockport (max V5).
Wed: Push-ups & Pull-ups(187) + weights.
Thu: Rest.
Fri: 30 mins ARC. Core(348).
Sat: Trad (max e2).
Sun: Trad (max e1).
Not much on the training front this week. Meant to do VIR training @ Stockport on Tuesday but it turned into a mess about.
Had a day and half climbing this weekend which is an amazing amount of time for me!! It started off well when I did Browns Eliminate OS but then it all went
down hill. I tried a finger crack called Synopsis but I turned into a mouse when I was faced with a hard run out & chicked out. Real shame as it would probably have been my first proper, not soft, E2. Next day to Millstone to practice crack climbing! Managed Embankment 4 fine so then tried Time for Tea. Oh dear, T4T requires proper crack climbing technique & gets quite thin on the feet. Queue me whacking in loads of gear and then backing off near the top when faced with a hard run out. I either need to get a lot more confident at climbing cracks or I need to get a lot more confident at taking falls. At least I learnt this before wasting my OS attempts on Left Wall & Regent Street.
STG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July)
MTG: Complete 2 e1s & 2 e2s (end of July).
LTG(2011): 1*e3(0), 7*e2(4), 10*e1(9)
VLTG(2012?): Classic e5 (Positron?, Right Wall?)
Falls this week:0 (0 this year)
Fat %: 10.2
Focus: Hypertrophy (3/3)(3/3)
Mon: Core (173). Weights.
Tue: Bouldering @ Stockport (max V5).
Wed: Push-ups & Pull-ups(187) + weights.
Thu: Rest.
Fri: 30 mins ARC. Core(348).
Sat: Trad (max e2).
Sun: Trad (max e1).
Not much on the training front this week. Meant to do VIR training @ Stockport on Tuesday but it turned into a mess about.
Had a day and half climbing this weekend which is an amazing amount of time for me!! It started off well when I did Browns Eliminate OS but then it all went
down hill. I tried a finger crack called Synopsis but I turned into a mouse when I was faced with a hard run out & chicked out. Real shame as it would probably have been my first proper, not soft, E2. Next day to Millstone to practice crack climbing! Managed Embankment 4 fine so then tried Time for Tea. Oh dear, T4T requires proper crack climbing technique & gets quite thin on the feet. Queue me whacking in loads of gear and then backing off near the top when faced with a hard run out. I either need to get a lot more confident at climbing cracks or I need to get a lot more confident at taking falls. At least I learnt this before wasting my OS attempts on Left Wall & Regent Street.
In reply to The New NickB: Good stuff Nick. I was speaking to someone from work and she suggested she was best part of 15mins down on her early season half times (though 5 marathons recently may have some effect there).
Cheers AJM:
Back to a reasonable volume this week.
Mon: 13.5k steady run
Tue: 45k cycle at a fairly hard pace, into quite a headwind at points.
Wed: Fartlek, intervals between 100m and 600m at mile pb pace or faster.
Thu: 21k run at fairly easy effort, though decent pace resulted, and felt suprisingly good at end, just a little dehydrated but otherwise fine.
Fri: Easy 15k(ish) cycling.
Sat: Fairly easy 8k run to Roundhay Park Run and acting as 25min pacer. 46k cycling, completely disrupted by 3 punctures leaving me without a spare tube miles from anywhere.
Sun: 25kish biking (nominally off-road) in two sections. First one disrupted due to bridleway being impassably overgrown, and second one resulted in another puncture!
Good week upto Friday, decent volume and some hard sessions. Fell apart at weekend due to bikes conspiring against me! I went to Roundhay Park Run, but with my legs feeling a little sluggish and wanting to do a fairly long lumpy cycle later on, offered to be 25min pacer.
I'd planned a route taking in Norwood Edge and Greenhow Hill, at about 80-90k. Took it fairly easy for the start, descended to foot of Norwood and noticed a rear wheel puncture. Fixed it and climbed Norwood Edge a lot more easily than I expected. Pootled on, until by Menwith Hill noticed the front wheel had gone flat. At this point I disovered I only had one spare tube rather than the usual two. Walked down to Darley and got a taxi to Harrogate to pick up another tube and head home. Trying to inflate tube, noticed the bead kept popping out of the rim, much to confusion of me and shop staff. Eventually got it in and inflated, and headed off. Then about 10mins cycle from home the front tire once again went pop, so I called in rescue to get home!
And just to rub it in, the rear wheel on my mountain bike went flat on a short pootle around the Chevin on Sunday afternoon - 4 punctures in 3 different tyres in 2 days! After about 2 years without one! I think my road tires may need replacing though, and that may have a contributory effect.
Cheers AJM:
Back to a reasonable volume this week.
Mon: 13.5k steady run
Tue: 45k cycle at a fairly hard pace, into quite a headwind at points.
Wed: Fartlek, intervals between 100m and 600m at mile pb pace or faster.
Thu: 21k run at fairly easy effort, though decent pace resulted, and felt suprisingly good at end, just a little dehydrated but otherwise fine.
Fri: Easy 15k(ish) cycling.
Sat: Fairly easy 8k run to Roundhay Park Run and acting as 25min pacer. 46k cycling, completely disrupted by 3 punctures leaving me without a spare tube miles from anywhere.
Sun: 25kish biking (nominally off-road) in two sections. First one disrupted due to bridleway being impassably overgrown, and second one resulted in another puncture!
Good week upto Friday, decent volume and some hard sessions. Fell apart at weekend due to bikes conspiring against me! I went to Roundhay Park Run, but with my legs feeling a little sluggish and wanting to do a fairly long lumpy cycle later on, offered to be 25min pacer.
I'd planned a route taking in Norwood Edge and Greenhow Hill, at about 80-90k. Took it fairly easy for the start, descended to foot of Norwood and noticed a rear wheel puncture. Fixed it and climbed Norwood Edge a lot more easily than I expected. Pootled on, until by Menwith Hill noticed the front wheel had gone flat. At this point I disovered I only had one spare tube rather than the usual two. Walked down to Darley and got a taxi to Harrogate to pick up another tube and head home. Trying to inflate tube, noticed the bead kept popping out of the rim, much to confusion of me and shop staff. Eventually got it in and inflated, and headed off. Then about 10mins cycle from home the front tire once again went pop, so I called in rescue to get home!
And just to rub it in, the rear wheel on my mountain bike went flat on a short pootle around the Chevin on Sunday afternoon - 4 punctures in 3 different tyres in 2 days! After about 2 years without one! I think my road tires may need replacing though, and that may have a contributory effect.
In reply to JimmyKay:
I agree, good shout! I tried Pantomime several weeks ago extremely hungover and found it will go next time. I hear it's about the same as Comedy? Awesome routes, and need to get back up there soon.
I agree, good shout! I tried Pantomime several weeks ago extremely hungover and found it will go next time. I hear it's about the same as Comedy? Awesome routes, and need to get back up there soon.
In reply to AJM:
Cheers Andy, seems like in a three month break from climbing my level has stayed the same. I'm presuming cause of the weight loss. I would have expected to drop a grade or two. Now to keep climbing and improve grade wich will hopefully be easier. Almost down to target weight of 80kg. Could do with losing more but will reset goals for after Austria trip.
Last week.
M: Gym, fat burning.
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
Th: Gym fat burning. 1 hour intense cardio.
F: Gym rwsistance and light cardio
S: Gym again Fat burning cardio 90 mins
Su: Nothing.
Weight now down to 81kg. 1 week to lose a kilo to hit my target. So that's my immediate goal.
Get plenty of walking done in Austria, coupled with a few runs.
Shortish term goal get climbing again and lead a few HS's.
May miss next couple of Fit Clubs depending on internet availability. If so see you in a few weeks.
Cheers Andy, seems like in a three month break from climbing my level has stayed the same. I'm presuming cause of the weight loss. I would have expected to drop a grade or two. Now to keep climbing and improve grade wich will hopefully be easier. Almost down to target weight of 80kg. Could do with losing more but will reset goals for after Austria trip.
Last week.
M: Gym, fat burning.
T: Nothing
W: Nothing
Th: Gym fat burning. 1 hour intense cardio.
F: Gym rwsistance and light cardio
S: Gym again Fat burning cardio 90 mins
Su: Nothing.
Weight now down to 81kg. 1 week to lose a kilo to hit my target. So that's my immediate goal.
Get plenty of walking done in Austria, coupled with a few runs.
Shortish term goal get climbing again and lead a few HS's.
May miss next couple of Fit Clubs depending on internet availability. If so see you in a few weeks.
In reply to Liam M:
Thanks Liam, I am definately not going to run a 76 minute half any time soon, but I am hoping sub 85 is a distinct possibility.
Thanks Liam, I am definately not going to run a 76 minute half any time soon, but I am hoping sub 85 is a distinct possibility.
In reply to The New NickB: Haha - I think being toward the back end of the field, her time difference may be absolutely bigger, if proportionally similar.
In reply to The New NickB:
Pick a nice flat half and you'll have a good shout at sub 85mins. Cardiff is a good one, if they measure it right!
Pick a nice flat half and you'll have a good shout at sub 85mins. Cardiff is a good one, if they measure it right!
In reply to AJM:
I'm returning to fit club now I've got my motivation back.
Main goal - loose weight
ST - lose at least half a stone and increase hill/general fitness before August BH for trip to CIC
Mon - nowt
Tues - 1hr bouldering up to v2
Weds - day 1 of 30 day shred - sweaty!
Thurs - 2hrs climbing at Leeds - tried to lead 2x4+ but didn't have enough to get to top. FFS
Fri - nowt
Sat - nowt
Sun - dovestone tor - great day in the sun, never failed to get up so many climbs before but STILL enjoyed it! 2nd sev & VS, failed on 2x VS and a sev. Tired!
Goals for next week - remember to take DVD so I can exercise when I'm not staying at home.
Weight loss - 2lb this week
I'm returning to fit club now I've got my motivation back.
Main goal - loose weight
ST - lose at least half a stone and increase hill/general fitness before August BH for trip to CIC
Mon - nowt
Tues - 1hr bouldering up to v2
Weds - day 1 of 30 day shred - sweaty!
Thurs - 2hrs climbing at Leeds - tried to lead 2x4+ but didn't have enough to get to top. FFS
Fri - nowt
Sat - nowt
Sun - dovestone tor - great day in the sun, never failed to get up so many climbs before but STILL enjoyed it! 2nd sev & VS, failed on 2x VS and a sev. Tired!
Goals for next week - remember to take DVD so I can exercise when I'm not staying at home.
Weight loss - 2lb this week
In reply to AJM:
Still taking it easy through the week but feeling much better by the weekend. Just back from Portland last night (so not at Arch tonight J).
Goals Update
F7c pyramid (1x 7a+ done, 1x 7a+, 2x 7b, 1x 7b+, 1x 7c to do)
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Arch. 2x V3, 2x V4.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Fingerboard.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Blacknor Far South. O/S up to 6b+, fell off Nobody's Hero (6c/+), had a couple of TRs on Bushwhacked (7a+).
Sun - Blacknor Far South. Grabbed the crux draw on Read The Small Print (6b), RP Bushwhacked, O/S Escape From the Dwaafee Room (6a), intending to do some more onsighting but suddenly knackered.
Still taking it easy through the week but feeling much better by the weekend. Just back from Portland last night (so not at Arch tonight J).
Goals Update
F7c pyramid (1x 7a+ done, 1x 7a+, 2x 7b, 1x 7b+, 1x 7c to do)
Mon - Rest.
Tues - Arch. 2x V3, 2x V4.
Wedns - Rest.
Thurs - Fingerboard.
Fri - Rest.
Sat - Blacknor Far South. O/S up to 6b+, fell off Nobody's Hero (6c/+), had a couple of TRs on Bushwhacked (7a+).
Sun - Blacknor Far South. Grabbed the crux draw on Read The Small Print (6b), RP Bushwhacked, O/S Escape From the Dwaafee Room (6a), intending to do some more onsighting but suddenly knackered.
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Nice one on Bushwhacked Hazel!
Going to be down there (Swanage at least) this weekend I think. You got plans?
Nice one on Bushwhacked Hazel!
Going to be down there (Swanage at least) this weekend I think. You got plans?
In reply to AJM:
Hey Andy - Cheers! Not sure yet about this weekend, waiting to see if/where partner wants to climb. You doing sport or trad?
Hey Andy - Cheers! Not sure yet about this weekend, waiting to see if/where partner wants to climb. You doing sport or trad?
In reply to Curious Yellow:
Not really sure but hopefully trad and DWS if people can be persuaded. Will keep you posted...
Not really sure but hopefully trad and DWS if people can be persuaded. Will keep you posted...
In reply to AJM:
Another disappointing week with only two sessions. Nothing much to report. I've been doing a lot of babycare and struggling to fit climbing in. I'm exhausted when I get to the crag. It's also been really hot so conditions have been poor. Next week, no excuses: I will make sure I have something more positive to say.
Another disappointing week with only two sessions. Nothing much to report. I've been doing a lot of babycare and struggling to fit climbing in. I'm exhausted when I get to the crag. It's also been really hot so conditions have been poor. Next week, no excuses: I will make sure I have something more positive to say.
In reply to AJM: Quick one on the fly. Monday home session....nowt special. Thursday wall session... another poor show. Get the rest of these gigs done the weekend of then get back to a bit of normality.
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