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I just been down to my local crag,(the torrs, new mills) a little known but very good little quarried crag with stuff from v diff but mainly hvs to e5 e6 ish and well sheltered from the rain. I was down there today and some lads were drilling and boltong the large arch bridge for sport climbing. I couldn't believe my luck when I saw them as I climb down there all the time with it being on my doorstep. So tomorrow I'll be giving it a shot and its give nice weather too so get down there people and check out the hidden crag.
In reply to brassic: Nice, that should be fun!
In reply to brassic:
I know nothing about placing bolts. How soon are they safe to climb on after placement - immediately, or is there some sort of fixative that needs to harden?
I know nothing about placing bolts. How soon are they safe to climb on after placement - immediately, or is there some sort of fixative that needs to harden?
In reply to EarlyBird:
If it's expansion bolts they are safe to climb on immediately- if they have been safely placed in the first place!
If it's glue- ins you'd normally give them around 24 hours to set.
Since they just bolted the routes it's likely they'd want to do the First Ascents of any lines before anyone else gets on them.
If it's expansion bolts they are safe to climb on immediately- if they have been safely placed in the first place!
If it's glue- ins you'd normally give them around 24 hours to set.
Since they just bolted the routes it's likely they'd want to do the First Ascents of any lines before anyone else gets on them.
In reply to brassic:
actually in the bridge? As in the viaduct?
are they climbers or doing maintenance of some sort?
If climbers, question would be have they got permission from the right authorities (doubtful). I'm not too clued up on the history of the crag but used to climb there quite a bit and my mate who lives there mentioned problems of causing access issues if caught doing something we discussed (climbing from the millenium bridge up the railway on the stone wall there) and got caught.
Even if access isn't at risk I'd expect it will be looked on as vandalism.
hopefully all's fine though and they've got permission to put up the bolts
actually in the bridge? As in the viaduct?
are they climbers or doing maintenance of some sort?
If climbers, question would be have they got permission from the right authorities (doubtful). I'm not too clued up on the history of the crag but used to climb there quite a bit and my mate who lives there mentioned problems of causing access issues if caught doing something we discussed (climbing from the millenium bridge up the railway on the stone wall there) and got caught.
Even if access isn't at risk I'd expect it will be looked on as vandalism.
hopefully all's fine though and they've got permission to put up the bolts
In reply to Scarab9:
It's all legit. It's been sorted in consultation with New Mills Council. Martin Kocsis and co. are doing the graft on it. They're using glue-ins rather than expansion bolts. They'd got 3 lines up already by the time that I left. Should be great.
It's all legit. It's been sorted in consultation with New Mills Council. Martin Kocsis and co. are doing the graft on it. They're using glue-ins rather than expansion bolts. They'd got 3 lines up already by the time that I left. Should be great.
In reply to MHutch:
They've bolted various lines up the leg of the Union Road bridge that's nearest to the Viaduct Wall area...
They've bolted various lines up the leg of the Union Road bridge that's nearest to the Viaduct Wall area...
In reply to Clauso:
How were the lines accessed in terms of rigging ropes to drill? Presumeably it wasn't done ground-up with a bolt ladder (due to resin)? Have the guys sussed out a method of getting bolts up into the overhanging arches? I remember this being an issue when this was last dicussed on here.
How were the lines accessed in terms of rigging ropes to drill? Presumeably it wasn't done ground-up with a bolt ladder (due to resin)? Have the guys sussed out a method of getting bolts up into the overhanging arches? I remember this being an issue when this was last dicussed on here.
i usually boulder on it round the bottom of the arch and thats pretty tough pumpy finger work so i would hazzard a guess between F5 and 6A 6B or greater. Its hard to say, not having climbed up it yet but definatley be prepared for some good pumpy stuff that will give your arms a proper workout.
In reply to brassic: Hmmmm, gritstone crag, bolts and a bridge .... there's the faint wiff of goat poo wafting around, could be a coincidence.
In reply to Swig:
>"what sort of grades the routes will go at?"
Having climbed similar terrain, if the routes are no steeper than vertical then you are looking at about F6c.
Check the spread of grades at Blantyre Towers for an idea.
>"what sort of grades the routes will go at?"
Having climbed similar terrain, if the routes are no steeper than vertical then you are looking at about F6c.
Check the spread of grades at Blantyre Towers for an idea.
In reply to JLS:
Thanks. About right for me as an outdoor climbing wall. Might be a good wet weather alternative (assuming it stays dry). I'll have to go and have a look sometime.
Thanks. About right for me as an outdoor climbing wall. Might be a good wet weather alternative (assuming it stays dry). I'll have to go and have a look sometime.
the best thing i can say is get down ther and see fot yourself, ive tried to give a rough idea but it certainly is vertical and very pumpy stuff but not having been up the top then i cant say what the holds are like upo there but its certainly no pushover and I'm looking forward to having a bash. You may be right with 6C+, theres a mixture of really good holds and really hard one or two finger buttock clenchers. Its just a matter of whether they're in reach or not.
In reply to Swig:
Generally, the individual moves tend not to be too hard (sub Brit. 6a) but the routes will be very very sustained. Great for training fitness if you persevere for a few weeks.
Generally, the individual moves tend not to be too hard (sub Brit. 6a) but the routes will be very very sustained. Great for training fitness if you persevere for a few weeks.
In reply to brassic:
How solid are the blocks that the bolts are placed into?
How solid are the blocks that the bolts are placed into?
In reply to brassic:
I was down there helping out with the bolting.
4 lines of bolts, one up the centre of each end of the pier (can be used for both aretes) and 2 on the inside face. No Idea what grades really, but we had a quick toprope on one of them, the glue hadn't set on the others yet. They'll be good to go tomorrow though.
The blocks the bolts are in are solid, we chose the biggest ones.
One last thing...PLEASE dont toprope straight though the lower offs, use your own quickdraws and then just the last person thread the bolts.
I was down there helping out with the bolting.
4 lines of bolts, one up the centre of each end of the pier (can be used for both aretes) and 2 on the inside face. No Idea what grades really, but we had a quick toprope on one of them, the glue hadn't set on the others yet. They'll be good to go tomorrow though.
The blocks the bolts are in are solid, we chose the biggest ones.
One last thing...PLEASE dont toprope straight though the lower offs, use your own quickdraws and then just the last person thread the bolts.
In reply to JLS:
Hmmmm, not sure of an exact height, 15m maybe? I think there is 6 bolts on each line and 2 in the lower off, so 8 draws. But bring a clip stick or boulder mat, the first bolts are fairly high, mainly so the local chavs dont get at them!
Hmmmm, not sure of an exact height, 15m maybe? I think there is 6 bolts on each line and 2 in the lower off, so 8 draws. But bring a clip stick or boulder mat, the first bolts are fairly high, mainly so the local chavs dont get at them!
In reply to brassic:
I think if you any of you went to the Peak Area meeting, then you'd know that the council has actually expressed wishes to encourage climbing on New Mills Tor. This couldn't possibly be to do with that, could it?
I'm just saying is all.
I think if you any of you went to the Peak Area meeting, then you'd know that the council has actually expressed wishes to encourage climbing on New Mills Tor. This couldn't possibly be to do with that, could it?
I'm just saying is all.
In reply to Clauso:
Made us chuckle that one
> (In reply to Swig)
>
> No idea mate... I fall off VDiffs so you wouldn't want my opinion anyhow.
>
> No idea mate... I fall off VDiffs so you wouldn't want my opinion anyhow.
Made us chuckle that one
I was down there today doing a bit of bouldering and noticed the new bolts. Looks fun, and if it's anything like traversing around the pillar then the routes won't be any pushover.
Being a sport climbing noob, could someone explain how one would go about threading the bolts on the final ascent?
David
> One last thing...PLEASE dont toprope straight though the lower offs, use your own quickdraws and then just the last person thread the bolts.
Being a sport climbing noob, could someone explain how one would go about threading the bolts on the final ascent?
David
In reply to Chris Craggs:
I don't want to statrt another Peak, peaks argument, but I'm fairly certain it's New Mills Torrs.
> (In reply to brassic)
> Shouldn't this thread be entitled 'New Mills Tor not bolted'?
>
> Chris
> Shouldn't this thread be entitled 'New Mills Tor not bolted'?
>
> Chris
I don't want to statrt another Peak, peaks argument, but I'm fairly certain it's New Mills Torrs.
In reply to Al Evans:
I wasn't querying the spelling, just the fact that it is the viaduct and not the crag that has been bolted.
Chris
I wasn't querying the spelling, just the fact that it is the viaduct and not the crag that has been bolted.
Chris
In reply to jonny2vests: Brilliant, thanks for that!
In reply to Al Evans:
I agree Al, it is 'Torrs', not that it really matters in the context of the discussion.
Whilst i'm here, we climbed all four of the aretes today, ranging from 6a-6b+ go out there and climb them, enjoy! (Just watch out, they're still a but dusty.)
I agree Al, it is 'Torrs', not that it really matters in the context of the discussion.
Whilst i'm here, we climbed all four of the aretes today, ranging from 6a-6b+ go out there and climb them, enjoy! (Just watch out, they're still a but dusty.)
In reply to Dan Lane:
The face climbs and short sides eliminating the aretes will be more challenging. I find climbing this style of arête becomes very repetitive once you suss out the knack.
The face climbs and short sides eliminating the aretes will be more challenging. I find climbing this style of arête becomes very repetitive once you suss out the knack.
In reply to JLS:
Yes, i agree, the right hand line of bolts on the inside face was climbed at 7a last night (slightly right of the bolts.) The line of bolt to the left is a closed project at about 7a, seems fair enough to let the people who bolted the routes climb them?
Yes, i agree, the right hand line of bolts on the inside face was climbed at 7a last night (slightly right of the bolts.) The line of bolt to the left is a closed project at about 7a, seems fair enough to let the people who bolted the routes climb them?
In reply to Al Evans:
No, no Al; it's New Mill Torrs....
> (In reply to Chris Craggs)
> [...]
>
> I don't want to statrt another Peak, peaks argument, but I'm fairly certain it's New Mills Torrs.
> [...]
>
> I don't want to statrt another Peak, peaks argument, but I'm fairly certain it's New Mills Torrs.
No, no Al; it's New Mill Torrs....
In reply to brassic:
excellent work. thanks to all involved. i've often thought how good it would be to have bolts up the bridge. will make a pleasant change from endless laps on mather crack, electric circus etc
excellent work. thanks to all involved. i've often thought how good it would be to have bolts up the bridge. will make a pleasant change from endless laps on mather crack, electric circus etc
In reply to Bulls Crack:
Nope, it is definatley "New Mills Torrs". Given the simple fact the town is called New Mills, and the place is called the Torrs..
> (In reply to Al Evans)
> [...]
>
> No, no Al; it's New Mill Torrs....
> [...]
>
> No, no Al; it's New Mill Torrs....
Nope, it is definatley "New Mills Torrs". Given the simple fact the town is called New Mills, and the place is called the Torrs..
In reply to David Kirsfelds:
See this from the BMC
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2008
> I was down there today doing a bit of bouldering and noticed the new bolts. Looks fun, and if it's anything like traversing around the pillar then the routes won't be any pushover.
>
> [...]
>
> Being a sport climbing noob, could someone explain how one would go about threading the bolts on the final ascent?
>
> David
>
> [...]
>
> Being a sport climbing noob, could someone explain how one would go about threading the bolts on the final ascent?
>
> David
See this from the BMC
http://www.thebmc.co.uk/Feature.aspx?id=2008
In reply to Removed UserTheShipsMast: Actually it really is New Mills (I lived there) but it's always been New Mills Torrs, never New Mills Tor.
In reply to brassic:
Went for a walk around there today, the lines look pretty good so i'll be back sometime soon to give them a shot. Now I dont know if this has been mentioned anywhere else but the pillar on the other side of the path (right next to the river) has also been bolted with x2 lines, one with glue ins and the other expension bolts with hangers by the looks of it. Any idea who did these?
Went for a walk around there today, the lines look pretty good so i'll be back sometime soon to give them a shot. Now I dont know if this has been mentioned anywhere else but the pillar on the other side of the path (right next to the river) has also been bolted with x2 lines, one with glue ins and the other expension bolts with hangers by the looks of it. Any idea who did these?
In reply to R8JimBob88:
Chatted to the guys who put them in yesterday. They're all glue ins. At least three lines bolted on the pillar nearest the river. You may well need a clipstick for the first bolt though. The drop's pretty big over that wall.
Chatted to the guys who put them in yesterday. They're all glue ins. At least three lines bolted on the pillar nearest the river. You may well need a clipstick for the first bolt though. The drop's pretty big over that wall.
In reply to brassic:
So are these more recent additions? Just they aren't refered to anywhere else or on the topo
So are these more recent additions? Just they aren't refered to anywhere else or on the topo
In reply to brassic: More info here: http://andyturnerclimbing.blogspot.com/2011/07/gritstone-bolts.html
In reply to brassic:
How the hell have they managed to negotiate with the council to drive a load of bolts into a road bridge and turn it into a playground for a "high risk activity", thats slick work for sure! I'd have thought they'd just run into "no", "no", "computer says no", "accountant says no"....
I bet the routes will be popular - especially on a wet day! Something seems faintly french about this move
Also... I object to this retro-bolting because I lead them all as trad routes a couple of years back!
How the hell have they managed to negotiate with the council to drive a load of bolts into a road bridge and turn it into a playground for a "high risk activity", thats slick work for sure! I'd have thought they'd just run into "no", "no", "computer says no", "accountant says no"....
I bet the routes will be popular - especially on a wet day! Something seems faintly french about this move
Also... I object to this retro-bolting because I lead them all as trad routes a couple of years back!
In reply to petellis:
Danny French who makes 'French Holds' used to have his workshop in our garage in New Mills.
> (In reply to brassic)
> I bet the routes will be popular - especially on a wet day! Something seems faintly french about this move
> I bet the routes will be popular - especially on a wet day! Something seems faintly french about this move
Danny French who makes 'French Holds' used to have his workshop in our garage in New Mills.
In reply to brassic:
I've cleaned up the two routes on the inside of the bridge closest the crag a bit more, they're considerably more pleasant now.
It would definitely make the other routes a more pleasant experience if someone were to abseil the others with a yard brush to remove most of the dust.
Also, does anyone know anything about the routes off the wall above the river? seems slightly dodgy with the 10m fall potential before the first clip?
I've cleaned up the two routes on the inside of the bridge closest the crag a bit more, they're considerably more pleasant now.
It would definitely make the other routes a more pleasant experience if someone were to abseil the others with a yard brush to remove most of the dust.
Also, does anyone know anything about the routes off the wall above the river? seems slightly dodgy with the 10m fall potential before the first clip?
In reply to JamieSparkes:
Think Dan mentioned earlier in the thread - take a clip stick! First bolts are deliberately high to stop any damage from non climbers.
And it's safer to have high first bolt pre-clipped so that there's no risk of landing on the wall.
Enjoy!
Think Dan mentioned earlier in the thread - take a clip stick! First bolts are deliberately high to stop any damage from non climbers.
And it's safer to have high first bolt pre-clipped so that there's no risk of landing on the wall.
Enjoy!
In reply to brassic: Strikes me that you may get the odd bod who isnt keen on whats been done and may want to chop the bolts.where would they stand legally ...not myself by the way..
In reply to brassic: Went there today, brilliant idea, a bit dirty at the moment, gave the holds a good brush after descending from each route. If people do the same should clean up soon enough.
Good for a bit of training.
Good for a bit of training.
In reply to victorclimber:
Why would anyone (in their right mind) object to the bolting of a .... viaduct?
> Strikes me that you may get the odd bod who isnt keen on whats been done and may want to chop the bolts.where would they stand legally
Why would anyone (in their right mind) object to the bolting of a .... viaduct?
In reply to BlakeyDerbyshire:
Never mind the spelling or the ethics, what are the grades of these Mrs Mills Tor clip-ups?
Never mind the spelling or the ethics, what are the grades of these Mrs Mills Tor clip-ups?
In reply to bullybones: they're on the logbook page on here, well the ones on the pillar closest the crag are. As an aside, where on earth are the bolts from, they look like cheap tent pegs!
In reply to bullybones:
here you go:
Begining of the end F6 http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202193
Revolution Action F6a+ (soft) http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202198
Revenge of the grit bolting antichrist F6b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202197
Thin end of the wedge F6b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202199
The girlfriend F6b+ http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202194
Welcome To Portland (Oregon) F6c http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202196
Evolution or outrage F7a http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202195
The grades are mainly as and idea. The routes were filthy when the first ascents were done even after lengthy cleaning.
here you go:
Begining of the end F6 http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202193
Revolution Action F6a+ (soft) http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202198
Revenge of the grit bolting antichrist F6b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202197
Thin end of the wedge F6b http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202199
The girlfriend F6b+ http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202194
Welcome To Portland (Oregon) F6c http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202196
Evolution or outrage F7a http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/c.php?i=202195
The grades are mainly as and idea. The routes were filthy when the first ascents were done even after lengthy cleaning.
In reply to grubes: what about those on the other pillar?
In reply to JamieSparkes:
not sure I have only been after the first bolts were placed you could try contacting Martin Kocsis at the bmc. I am not sure of the other pillar
not sure I have only been after the first bolts were placed you could try contacting Martin Kocsis at the bmc. I am not sure of the other pillar
In reply to JamieSparkes: the so called tent pegs were just fine when i lead some routes 4 weeks ago and in sicily last year [ but would be interested in seeing the size of your tent] ha ha
1
In reply to grubes: the routes on the second pillar have now had another bolt placed on each route that can be reached from the wall itself.
strangely enough these are not glue-ins, which seems to contradict the original "anti-vandal" reasoning.
strangely enough these are not glue-ins, which seems to contradict the original "anti-vandal" reasoning.
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