UKC

Howdy,

Thanks to the reappearance of a knee injury (looks like they missed the fact I have a torn lateral meniscus as well as articular cartilage damage) I'm going to be out of action for a while and I want to do my best to stay in shape (err..).


I mainly climb diff-s and a little bit lardy so finger boards are out. I've been working my way through the twenty pull ups and two hundred sit ups program three days a week and playing with finger putty whenever I can. Is there anything else I can be doing that doesn't involve me using my lower body? Perhaps reducing the no. reps of sit ups/pull ups and incorporating tricep dips in to the workout as well?

Cheers.

Oh, and thanks to those of you who recommended a knee specialist - I ended up ditching the guy I was seeing previously for Mr Borrill at The Alexandra, seems like a good guy and immediately picked up on a few things the other chap hadn't.

In reply to Styx:

With the very real risk of sounding like a patronising tw*t:

If you're climbing diffs then I'll think you'll be fine with a layoff without losing the strength etc to maintain that level.

Finger boards etc are only really of use at the higher grades.

You'd be best off maintaining your current level of activity and perhaps trying to incorporate some CV to keep the weight off which is probably going to be your biggest threat to your climbing. I did a lot of indoor biking after a knee op a few years ago if that helps.

In reply to Fickalli: Aye, I'm well aware that I'm not really in much danger of 'losing' strength but I need to continue gaining it so that my layoff isn't entirely wasted.

I'd love to incorporate some CV work but I can't think of anything that I can actually do right now. The damaged articular cartilage means that bending my knee at all causes pain so cycling, swimming, etc... it's all out of the question.

In reply to Styx: oh and I'm probably being a little unfair as categorizing myself as a diff-s climber, I tend to do long/easy stuff outdoors as that's what I enjoy but I lead 6b+/6c sport.

In reply to Styx:

Get a set of dumbells and just do upper body workouts to help maintain strength - a good fingerboard might give you the ambition to reduce your wieght and at least give you something to aim for whilst laid up

In reply to Styx: A friend of mine has undertaken knee surgery a week ago or so, so he can walk but gently/slowly. In spite of that see him every day climbing with one climbing shoe in my favourite indoor climbing wall. He's bouldering on roof (5x8m roof), what is mostly hand/arm exercise, and one use of foot still allows him to do nice problems. Of course, caution advised to not to push yourself too much

In reply to Styx:

swimming, finger/hand and upper body stuff with weights, a bar and a board.

In reply to Styx: Probably a stupid response, but, how about one-footed on a rowing machine? Good cv workout.

I think I read that Tim Emmett did dead hangs (probably a lot of them) whilst out with a broken ankle/foot. This wasn't long before completing his Muy Caliente project.

In reply to turtlespit:

And Kelly corded did all sorts too when he smashed his leg. Check his blog

In reply to Styx:

Lots of wanking (just don't forget to change hands at 99). This does two things, staves off boredom and improves the grip.

In reply to Styx:

Arm cycling - great for CV or upper body endurance depending what resistance you use!

http://direct.tesco.com/q/R.206-2938.aspx?utm_source=GoogleShopping&utm...

Cheap and effective

In reply to Styx:

Im curently recovering from snapped knee ligaments and found swimming front crawl without legs was good. Also cycling indoors on machines because its closed cycle movement and without impact. I'd personally ask the specialist your seeing about what he recomends and a physio/ personal trainer that might be prepared to offer some advice in your local gym..

Cheers for the ideas folks, the hand peddle thing looks like it might be worth a crack if I can use it for CV work, as I say swimming and cycling are both out of the question right now.

I'll also have a google for blogs/people mentioned and see what they got up to.

Thanks!

In reply to Styx:
Can really recommend JB as top notch ortho knee surgeon!!! he not a climber but understands the issues..he skis!!! but dont let that put you off!!lol
ps I'm friend and colleague of his, but he did a great job on my chondral tear
pps he hasnt paid me to say this!!!

In reply to Styx:

Pull-up's etc won't do much to keep the weight off because those kind of exercises build muscle.

When I snapped my ACL i did:

1.) Lots of cycling in and outdoors (are you sure you can't manage this yet? My physio recommended it). You can adjust the height of the bike seat to compensate for reduced range of movement.

2.) Rowing maching (leave your bad leg out of the styrrup)

4.) Laps of the pool - not breast stroke (bad for damaged ligaments, apparently)

4.) Watch your diet, especially booze.

5.) Lots of wanking. I've kept this up, even though my leg is much better now.