UKC

THE LOWDOWN: Another few days at the office for Ondra

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L-R: Adam Ondra (2nd), Dmitry Sharafutdinov (1st) and Rustam Gelmanov (3rd), 5 kbAdam Ondra has returned to the office again after the World Championships in Arco. The plastic pulling, resulting in him becoming the combined World Champion after a Gold in the duel, Silver in Bouldering and Bronze in Lead, doesn't seem to have had any negative impact on his rock climbing...

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=63404
 xican 04 Aug 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: can we not just give up on the ondra stories and just post one last one saying that at some point in the future he will have done everything 9a and harder...? it would save everyone a lot of time
 ginsters 04 Aug 2011
In reply to xican:
ye!its teribble to be putting climbing articles on here.....
xyz 04 Aug 2011
Ondra breaking the 14,000 barrier on 8a.nu would be significant news as he would have to on-sight 9a or red-point 9b+ both world firsts!
 jacobjlloyd 04 Aug 2011
In reply to xyz: but surely then the news would be that he had redpointed 9b+ or onsighted 9a, not that he had been awarded 14000 points on a ridiculous website? Im not sure the points matter at all to anybody...
 Peter Walker 04 Aug 2011
In reply to jacobjlloyd: ...apart from the bloke running the website in question.
xyz 04 Aug 2011
In reply to jacobjlloyd:
> (In reply to Lee Proctor) but surely then the news would be that he had redpointed 9b+ or onsighted 9a, not that he had been awarded 14000 points on a ridiculous website? Im not sure the points matter at all to anybody...

The points system used by 8a is currently, AFAIK, the only system that takes into account a climbers overall performance on a rolling basis. Its a personal thing some people are into it and some aren't. I use it along with 1000's of other climbers globally, including Ondra. I find it to be a useful motivational tool because it succinctly illustrates how my climbing is progressing year on year as well as being a convenient route logbook and database plus its free and easy to use so why not!

For anyone to O/S 9a or R/P 9b+ would be worthy news on its own, to maintain a score above 14,000 would mean they'd be consistently maintaining that level year on year.

You are right the points don't matter at all to anybody but what appears "ridiculous" to you is interesting to me hence my post.


 ksjs 04 Aug 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Am I confused? I thought he was working Gancho Perfecto in Progression?
 USBRIT 04 Aug 2011
In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC: Maybe its time these talented one finger pull up chaps pushed the boat out on some radical trad routes.Sorry but I find watching video's of bolt clipping rather boring,more liken to a circus act,but obviously not as dangerous..
 Jiduvah 04 Aug 2011
In reply to USBRIT:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) Maybe its time these talented one finger pull up chaps pushed the boat out on some radical trad routes.Sorry but I find watching video's of bolt clipping rather boring,more liken to a circus act,but obviously not as dangerous..

1/10
 royal 05 Aug 2011
In reply to USBRIT:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) Maybe its time these talented one finger pull up chaps pushed the boat out on some radical trad routes.Sorry but I find watching video's of bolt clipping rather boring,more liken to a circus act,but obviously not as dangerous..

Bugger, I wish you'd mentioned this earlier as I can do one fingered pullups. My log book will look so much better now I can do 9a's.
 USBRIT 05 Aug 2011
In reply to royal: Well you have no excuse,join the act.
 USBRIT 05 Aug 2011
In reply to xican:
> (In reply to Björn Pohl - UKC) can we not just give up on the ondra stories and just post one last one saying that at some point in the future he will have done everything 9a and harder...? it would save everyone a lot of time

Agree if you have seen just ONE 9a or whatever ...clip clip clip.. you have seen them all.
 Epsilon 06 Aug 2011
In reply to USBRIT:
> (In reply to xican)
> [...]
>
> Agree if you have seen just ONE 9a or whatever ...clip clip clip.. you have seen them all.

So when you watch a climbing video, are you watching for the climbing, or for the protection? Yeah, they are all clipping quickdraws, but the variety of movement is almost unlimited. If you watch a video of Dave Mac on some trad testpiece, is it to watch him pull the moves or to fiddle with the gear?
 USBRIT 06 Aug 2011
In reply to Epsilon: Well first there are very few extreme trad videos compared to these almost daily contrived clip climbs both indoors and out. Contrived meaning much prior top rope practice.. so eventually one can see little thought (but some effort) goes into the next move.Sure the moves look fancy....this goes back to the circus trick with no risk.( A well know climber once said.."Give me some hand holds and I will show you some fancy footwork") Of course practice and pre-placed gear often applies to the new extream trad climbs BUT failing/falling off these can have grave conseqences.Over all watching climbing is more often like watching paint dry. What I am saying many of these sport videos take the biscuit.

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