UKC

Hard safe quality E3 lists please

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 Diggler 24 Aug 2011
As requested above. Thanks in advance for any replies.
 Kemics 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Interrogation on Lowman? - though not sure how safe it is as I think it's protected by some fairly retro pegs.
 jamiev 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Foil
Jasper
Dervish
Perseus
 Ian Jones 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Test Case
Space Cadet
Zeppelin
Ghost Train
Cream
Vulture
Pippikin
Big Groove
Assassin
West Buttress Eliminate



 andy 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler: Several things at Reecastle.
 kingholmesy 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

On the limestone I'd suggest Queer Street and Laurin.
 ksjs 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler: where?
 Jon Stewart 24 Aug 2011
In reply to kingholmesy: Nearby, I like Absent Friends (v safe and not very hard) and 42nd Street (bold but ultimately perfectly safe). Darius is quite E3-like I thought (but better as a nails E2 as it adds to the reputation!).
 Lankyman 24 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler: in the Lancs quarries
Max, Supercrack - Wilton 1
Wilton Wall - Wilton 2
The Grader - Wilton 3
Tangerine Trip, Ain't Nothing To It - Anglezarke
All good gear and safe. Lots on Yorkshire limestone but no-one goes there anymore ......
 ksjs 24 Aug 2011
In reply to ksjs: As you live in Maghull I'll suggest some Welsh stuff:

Foil (Cromlech) as mentioned is pure class.

Stroll On (Grochan) is not far behind in the quality stakes, amazing.

Strike (Upper Tier, Gogarth) has been E4, either harder E3 or soft E4 I guess but straightforward if you're fit, very good too.

Sai Dancing (Holyhead) is superb with a tricky move right across the wall high up and then a weird and very trad pod / niche thing to finish.

Geireagle (Tremadog) is brilliant, I think some might say soft but I thought it was quite committing. I have the feeling that it's not quite as safe as the amount of gear available / peg suggest however.

Pen Trwyn has some superb E3s that fit the bill and there's a trio beside each other that are very much worth a visit: Klondike, Pocket City and Solid Gold. I thought Pocket City was the hardest of these and nudging E4 but good gear. All give great climbing (a few years since I did Klondike and I think Paul Williams suggests this is committing but I don't remember that).

If you haven't, Wilton is worth a visit; Supercrack was an early E3 for me so probably not hard but I have a feeling I'd still find it tricky. Max too is ace though this wasn't particularly hard E3.

Enjoy!







In reply to Ian Jones: Wesy Buttress Eliminate!?! Safe!?! 1st pitch is really bold, the Walsh's groove is the only safe pitch i'd say...
 Toby Dunn 25 Aug 2011
In reply to Kemics:
> (In reply to Diggler)
>
> Interrogation on Lowman? - though not sure how safe it is as I think it's protected by some fairly retro pegs.

safe enough, as pegs can be backed up: they are pretty rubbish; but not one i'd recommend to someone after especially safe routes.

Gates of Modor @ Millstone
Emerald Crack @ Chatsworth
Void @ Tremadog
Kafloozalem / Raven wall @ Bosigran

OP Diggler 25 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Thanks all that gives me something to go at.
 Jonny2vests 26 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Quite surprised nobody's mentioned Adjudicator Wall yet (Dovedale). Best Limestone E3 in the Peak I reckon.
 ellis 26 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:

Quality Street, Glen Nevis
Titan's Wall, Ben Nevis
Ocean Boulevard, Swanage
Tippler Direct, Stanage
 Stone Muppet 26 Aug 2011
Ha, I like this kind of thread.

You may be interested in the following two ticklists I put together from UKC threads.

http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=215
http://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=221

(Considered making a ticklist out of the recommendations on this one? Go on...)
 Graeme Read 27 Aug 2011
In reply to Diggler:
Nazgul - Scafell
Snicker Snack - Gable Crag
Eastern Hammer - Gimmer

Three of the best mountain routes in the Lakes and all very safe

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