UKC

Good first 7c, in the peak, recommendations?

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 J B Oughton 27 Aug 2011
Quite a long time ago I posted asking for recommendations for a good first 7b redpoint, and from the long list I was given I chose Beef It. When I first tried it I wasn't strong enough for the crux but after a month or so's training when I returned I could start working it properly, and can now do it fairly easily. At that time I'd onsighted 6c+ and thought I should add three grades for a redpointed route. Since then I've onsighted a few 7a+'s and a soft 7b+ so I thought I'd jump straight to 7c... Any recommendations?

Looking for fairly soft for the grade, well bolted, and quality lines

Oh and I also considered a few well pegged out E5/6's 6B/C?

Thanks, Jake
davo 27 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Sturgeon in the cupboard?
OP J B Oughton 27 Aug 2011
In reply to davo: I'm guessing by the fish reference in the name it's on the Embankment at Cheedale?
davo 27 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Yeah on right hand side. Some think 7b+ some think 7C...
 Andy Farnell 27 Aug 2011
In reply to davo: Stone the Loach, also on the Embankment.

Andy F
 carl dawson 27 Aug 2011
Celebration, Two Tier. Bit longer than some.

Carl
OP J B Oughton 27 Aug 2011
In reply to andy farnell: Yeah I had a look at that when I lowered off Beef It, looked good but very cruxy over the bulge...
 205Chris 27 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

If it's dry then Cry of Despair at Cheedale cornice is the one to do, far better than anything on the Embankment.

Or if you aren't bothered about the grade and want to do a quality hard 7b+ then The Sea is a Brown Paper Bag at Two Tier upper is one of the best pitches in the dale.

 Billg 27 Aug 2011
In reply to 205Chris: Agree with both cry of despair and Sea ... which is one of the best sports routes in the Peak and well worth the small hastle of the approach.

Not a soft touch, but Body Machine is superb. You can get a fotlock rest in the big pocket to recover for the top bit.
OP J B Oughton 27 Aug 2011
In reply to Billg: As well as Body Machine, does The Prow still get 7c if done in separate pitches?
 Ian Parsons 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

The Land That Time Forgot?
davo 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Just had a thought about the 7cs in the peak I have done.

Thought Why Me at Two Tier in Cheedale was good but probably not easy for the grade.

I also remember that there is a 7c at Raven's Tor called Wild in me that is more like a boulder problem than a route; so if you are boulder strong it is probably okay but would feel desperate if you were more fit than strong.

If you were willing to travel to Yorkshire then there are obviously tons more up there...

Dave
 Gus 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

The first two pitches of the prow make an amazing easy 7c+!!!
OP J B Oughton 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Gus: Is that linking them together without clipping the belays?
 Gus 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

You can clip the belays just not rest on em!!!
 jon 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Gus:

> You can clip the belays just not rest on em!!!

When I did the Prow, I did it in usual 80s style, in three pitches. I didn't think any of those pitches warranted 7c, but I can see linking them might... However, at that time, Zippy WAS trying to link them. His main problem was one of rope drag - despite using numerous ropes - the in situ gear at the time was that of the various old aid routes that The (free) Prow used, and wasn't ideally situated, even with double/multiple ropes. In the end he gave up (though has probably done it hundreds of times by now...?). BUT, he reckoned that he could completely recover on the stances, so that linking them the pitches would be just a formality if he could overcome the drag!
 Andy Farnell 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton: The Squealer at Lorry Park Quarry is quality and 7c.

Andy F
 j_duds 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:
Soft peak 7c's:
- lightweight - some use a nut in the top trav left to the belay, but you don't really need it
- Sturgeon ITC - as stated above.
Both are good cimpy peak lime!
Good luck.
 mikeyratty 28 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:
Fishing Without a Licence on the Embankment ?
OP J B Oughton 28 Aug 2011
In reply to jon: I just checked on here - all pitches at once gets 8a! Bit ambitious but might try working out all the pitches separately clean then going for it in one push with some massively extended draws!
 UKB Shark 29 Aug 2011
In reply to jon:

With the new cruxy 7b+ start (Push Up) you then have a 7b section after Revelations then the tough 7b+ section of Pitch 2 up the tufa and then the even tougher 7b+ final roof. Each section has ace rests. I thought 7c+ whene I did it (even with the Push-Up start) but have revised it to just 8a. It is hard to grade stamina recovery routes like this. When fit it is all to easy to take recovery ability for granted.

With various new bolts the rope runs well doing it one pitch - even better if you tie into two ends and untie one(one-handed) to drop it at the Revelations belay rest. You cam also lower off the Crucifixion belay at the top of the crag which can be reached from the ledge just below the top of the crag. A fantastic pitch now complemented by In and Out of Body Experience and Crucifixion making a trio of superb stamina/recovery 8a's.
OP J B Oughton 29 Aug 2011
In reply to shark:So basically I need to be fit enough to do a tough 7b+ after two easier 7b+'s with a decent rest between each... hmmm sounds tough!
 UKB Shark 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Hi - yes I wouldn't recommend it as a first 7c !! As for a longer 7c at the tor then Indecent Exposure from the ground to the new belay is the obvious choice and is outstanding. If you carry on up above the belay the extension is the Full Monty which is soft 7b (once you find the kneebar) but earns you more exposure and a cheeky 7c+.

I see Fossil Wall at Beginners Wall/Blackwell Dale hasn't been mentioned. Super accessible, very good - longer and better than it looks.
OP J B Oughton 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Has anybody done Sloe Gin? (Dunno if I've spelt it right...) looks great, it's the massive roof to the left of sirplum, goes right up the biggest middle section and gets E6 6c, yet it is described as 'mountaineering in complete safety' though I think that is like to be a massive overstatement...
 jon 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

Ha, I went to try it with Neil, a year or so after he made the first ascent. Got COMPLETELY shut down on it!
 steepstuff 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

"The boltest" in Long Tor is very good! along with "Arch Enemies" in Dove Dale....
OP J B Oughton 29 Aug 2011
In reply to jon: How was all the protection? Did you even need a rack?
OP J B Oughton 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Vertical World: Wow Arch Enemies looks amazing...
 jon 29 Aug 2011
In reply to Joughton:

I really don't remember a thing - it was over twenty years ago! Probably didn't need anything as far as I got!

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