UKC

After an absence of many years I returned to the Avon Gorge yesterday and decided to climb a few of the routes that I first climbed back in the 70's. I started with The Corpse, The Choker and then The Lich before moving further down the crag. To my surprise I found out later that The Choker now gets E1 in both Rockfax and the CC definitive guide.

Personally If I was going to upgrade any one of those climbs it would be The Lich. Back in 1972 I found that the hardest of the three and my experience yesterday did not change that view. BETA ALERT: In my defense I did not read the description and knowing in the first place that you must step left at the second overhang may have made things a little easier. I was not sure which way to go at that point.

What do you think? Is it just me or would you agree that The Lich is the hardest out of the three.

Al

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:
I guess Choker got upgraded because the gear isn't as good as the other two. They are all of similar difficulty, but if I had to pick the hardest one I would probably say The Lich too.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants: I dont think i have done those routes, but in my opinion if anything Avon is hard for the grade compared to other local areas.

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

Choker was felt to be too bold for many at HVS and hence went up to E1 to reflect the seriousness of the route. A "retro-peg" has now been placed and it should only get HVS (soft) again.

In reply to ally smith: That explains the upgrade to E1 but even so I thought that The Lich felt a little harder technically. It required a little more route finding skill, felt considerably steeper and therefore strenuous and was more polished. Or perhaps I should say that the polish seemed to affect it more than the others. Having said that I remember it feeling polished in 1972!

Al

In reply to Gaston Rubberpants:

I have done those routes, on balance I would probably agree with you, The Lich feels steeper and you can easily make it harder by getting slightly off route...