UKC

Just had a day sport climbing at Dancing Ledge in Dorset. Good day out and designed as a practice to a forthcoming trip to the Costa Blanca, Spain.

Trying to come to terms with UK Sports grades Vs Spanish grades. We managed to get up some 6's and 6a's but found the routes quite hard. What grades can we expect to get up in Spain? Are they the same, hoping to do some of the longer famous longer mountain bolted routes.

Any help appreciated! Recommendations welcome.

In reply to Mr Burns:

Sport routes use French grades throughout Europe, more or less. That doesn't mean the grades will be the same of course!


Chris

In reply to Mr Burns:
They vary from area to area but the Blanca ones generally seem OK.So expect to get up some 6's.

In reply to Mr Burns:
Just read my last post and it sounds a bit off-hand and vague. What I meant to say was that you won't find Costa Blanca grades unduly stiff. Basically, if Chris and his Rockfax colleagues have been there checking and documenting you will get a good idea of whats what.If you were doing 5's? and 6a's on your practice session start there and see how it goes.
In some areas of Spain you pick up a local topo and things can feel very difficult indeed.

In reply to Mr Burns:

Hi Clive

The grades are the same - but the spanish routes are longer and tend to have more spaced bolts, especially on the easier pitches and longer routes.

In fact the well-known mountain routes are not heavily bolted at all (or at least they weren't when I last went 2 years ago) - you'd be well-advised to bring at least a light rack. I'm guessing you're thinking of things like:
- Esperon Sur Central. You and Remco would like this - goes at about UK Severe rather than sport. Leave lots of time as it's not a descent you'd enjoy in the dark (and leave the car unlocked with onothing in it) - an early start may also get you in front of the hordes that do it.
- Via UPSA in the Mascarat gorge feels like straightforward VS (I think it gets 5 as a sport grade). The route of the same name on the Penon is nudging HVS.
- Via Valencianos on the Penon is very popular but I thought rather over-rated (having said that I've done it 3 times now!). It's about HS with some bolts here and there. There is an awkward smooth crack pitch (#3? can't remember) that is probably IV+ but feels horrible. Lots of people use a point of aid (for which you'd need a big Friend)

Overall, I think you might want to look at V-V+ initially. To get a feel for the grades of the pure bolt-clipping, Toix West is good and has 1-4 pitch routes at around V to 6a+. The bolts are more spaced than Portland. The nice long route at Bolula is good if you're ok with a couple of french-free moves and know how to rig a tyrolean. Sella is worth a day for classic 1-3 pitch quality climbs. The grades are a bit stiffer there and there is some poilsh on popular low-grade routes like Marion.

HTH
J

In reply to All

Many thanks at all, advise appreciated, we have rockfax so grades should be predictable.

In reply to JJL:

Hi John
Spooky!, you posted exactly the same time as me! Nice to hear from you and thanks for advise. I will get researching but still a few weeks away. Portland grades seem to bring you back to earth a bit. Bolts take some getting use to after trad, but are good excuse to fall off a few times (and rest on gear).

catch up soon, Clive

In reply to Mr Burns: I remember my surprise in Mallorca last year when I was finding in the Mallorca guide by Rockfax comments like this:

Area: El Calo de Betlem

Route: Pon
Grade: 7b+ with easier left-hand version (7a+). The local grade is 6c+.

Route: Wall Right
Grade: 6b+. Locally given 6a+.

etc.

Be careful

In reply to Mr Burns:

Make sure you take a couple of cheap small maillons with you incase the grade is a bit off and you want to lower off a route without leaving your quickdraws behind.