In reply to UKC Articles: I was in Yosemite in 1975 & 1977, knew Mark and had climbed with him on grit, and in '77 we climbed together on the Cookie (Waverley Wafer, I think - a great lead by Mark, I found it pretty difficult) but despite our friendship I was told nothing about Friends and what was about to happen even though I knew something was going on! By 1978 we had Friends on our rack when climbing Salathe Wall without pegs, and sold them at the end of our stay for the cost new in UK, such was the interest in them. Mark's daring venture into business revolutionized climbing, the downside being that there are now far more routes I will never be able to get up!