UKC

NEW ARTICLE: The Story Of The First Wild Country Friend

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 UKC Articles 11 Sep 2011
Ray Jardine on Seperate Reality 5.12a (E5 6b), Yosemite. The front cover of Mountain magazine 56, 4 kbThis year the Wild Country Friend has been redesigned. This is the story of the original Cam.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=4026
 petemeads 11 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: I was in Yosemite in 1975 & 1977, knew Mark and had climbed with him on grit, and in '77 we climbed together on the Cookie (Waverley Wafer, I think - a great lead by Mark, I found it pretty difficult) but despite our friendship I was told nothing about Friends and what was about to happen even though I knew something was going on! By 1978 we had Friends on our rack when climbing Salathe Wall without pegs, and sold them at the end of our stay for the cost new in UK, such was the interest in them. Mark's daring venture into business revolutionized climbing, the downside being that there are now far more routes I will never be able to get up!
 rgold 11 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles: The actual development of Friends is far more complex and nuanced than this Wild Country puff piece suggests. Jardine was neither the only nor the first person to consider camming devices, and the controversies surrounding who did what when have not been resolved.
 Michael Ryan 11 Sep 2011
In reply to rgold:

See the link at the bottom of the article.
 rgold 11 Sep 2011
In reply to Mick Ryan - Senior Editor - UKC: Oops, sorry, I missed that.

samsamsam 12 Sep 2011
In reply to rgold:
who gives a toss who invented them. they've saved my life on countless occasions... amen to that
 Adam Long 12 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:

Love that picture of Patta. Cool as a cucumber.
 alpinist63 13 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Articles:
I bought my first friend in Chamonix, 78 or 79...and that one has 'simond' on it , so I'm wondering if they were distributed in france by simond at that time or made by simond.

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