UKC

I'm going to Rjukan in February for a week with a few mates. None of us have been there before and we intend to do a variety of activities, including ice climbing, low grade winter climbing and [hopefully] an ascent of Gaustatoppen. We all have British winter climbing experience but are considering hiring a guide for the first day or two. I'm not sure whether to go for a local Norwegian guide or a British guide based out there. I would be really grateful for any advice relating to guides, routes, good places to eat that don't cost a fortune etc.
We are going to buy a couple of copies of the Heavy Water guidebook but would really appreciate any 'top tips' from anyone who has been there before to help us get the most out of the trip.
Many thanks!

In reply to Cornish boy: Hiya, I've worked in Rjukan a couple of times. Climbing the pure water ice routes there can be quite different from Scottish Winter. You can either figure it out yourself / with a book like: http://www.rockfax.com/publications/books/item.php?id=146 or get some coaching from a local guiding company (who will have a good feel for local conditions) like: http://www.northernalpine.com/index.php?action=page&article=108&nod... (they all speak excellent English).
If you only want a day or 2 that will be easier to arrange with a local company but you might get lucky and get a British Guide or MIC to tag a day or 2 onto existing work they already have out there (try an enquiry on: http://www.themic.org.uk/hire_an_instructor.php with your dates as many of us will be hoping to have courses out there this winter anyway).
Eating out isn't cheap and booze is heavily taxed. Taking a bottle or 2 from duty free can make a difference if you want a drink. When shopping in the supermarkets imported food (and things like chocolate and other treats) are more expensive whereas things like reindeer meat and other local produce are cheaper.
Enjoy.
Al

In reply to Cornish boy: Ryan Air seems to be popular to fly out with, but dont fall for their cheap initial prices. You're better off going with a better carrier like Norwegian which have a better baggage allowance. 15kgs isnt a lot if you've got all your ice kit with you. It's a good idea to take all the high energy snacky food out with you, this kind of stuff is very expensive out there. As mentioned, eating out is expensive, cheapest supermarkets tend to be the Kiwi's (there's one in Rjukan) where you can get a loaf of fresh bread for £1 for example. If you need information about what's in condition, the Climb Inn is a good place to start, and the last time i was there (last year) the owner was quite happy for me to use their wifi despite not actually staying there.

There's a few other Rjukan related threads around, have a look as im sure theres plenty more good info.

In reply to AlH:
Many thanks for your advice. I'll check out those links you sent, and pack plenty of Mars bars!. Cheers

In reply to kos_os:
Many thanks for your advice. We've got flights sorted with BA, who give you a generous baggage allowance, but will pack plenty of Mars bars and check out that Climb Inn for sure!
Cheers

In reply to Cornish boy: Staying at Climb Inn is a very good but slightly expensive option , the food is all freshly cooked and of a high quality . The main gorge , upper gorge and lower gorge are all within easy walking distance of the climb inn and the evening social life is good there . the last 2 times i've been there we stayed in a hostel in town which was cheaper but had zero atmosphere and we drove up to the 'climb inn' just for a bit of socialising . Krokan is a good starting place if you've never climbed pure cascade ice before . hope that helps

In reply to Cornish boy: Top tip.....get some proper axes!

In reply to Cornish boy:
When we were out there stayed at the climb inn when it was startring out (excellent).Lots of people out there were setting up top ropes,krokan is good for this, to get used to the style and techniques of icefall climbing. A guide would be good if you don't know how to place screws ect but if you are happy with your skills just brush up with a book (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ice-Mixed-Climbing-Technique-Mountaineers/dp/089886... being a good one.
Don't be frightened to head away from the crowds once you get going, kong vinter being a cracking place but you must be comfortable on grade 3-4 before you head here.
Another option we used to avoid the crowds as it used to be busy ! was to head out very early after a quick cuppa and catch a nice sunrise then head back for a decent breakfast and a kip before going back out for sunset and some headtorch climbing(MUST DO),krokans good for this.
If the weather is pants ask people about the dry tooling.

Days off can be good going skiing on the big slopes near by or taking a pack of reindeer up onto the hardingavida or the water plant, read/watch heroes of the telemark before you go.
Enjoy

In reply to smuffy: BA baggage allowance for the flights is 23kg checked in the hold and another 23kgs for hand luggage.

In reply to smuffy: thats a lot of mars bars...

In reply to Cornish boy: I've been a few times and always had a grand time. We've never hired a guide and found the Heavy Water guide book from Rockfax to be perfectly good by itself. This is assuming you are happy with your winter skills and equipment - which I'm assuming you are from your initial post.

There's not really a cheap restaurant in Ryukan. They've got a Chinese but it was pretty expensive. There's a takeaway pizza place but we've not frequented that establishment in the years we've been. You can get a very decent burger from the Hytteby. You can also stay there fairly cheaply too. http://rjukan-hytteby.no/en/index/

We mostly cooked for ourselves. One word of warning, they've got odd rules regarding the time you can purchase alcohol at their supermarkets. Just because the place is open doesn't mean they'll let you buy beer at that time. I remember one Sunday where we were particularly disappointed at about 7pm to find they stop selling booze at 6pm or something like that!! Ringnes lager was okay and another brand called something along the lines of Fatol Aas - which is also good for comedy value!

Harry

In reply to Cornish boy:

We also flew with BA, check with their up to date policies but they allowed us to take ski equipment for free in addition to their, already generous, baggage allowance with no apparent weight limit.
Even if you don't want to take skis, get a cheap ski boot bag and put your boots in it (say they are ski touring boots if anybody queries them, but nobody ever does). You can then pack them with heavy stuff like karabiners and ice screws (its ok with security as they go in the hold) and pack out the bag with socks etc.
I'd endorse the advice above about taking as much food as possible, especially grain bars, snacks etc. Its eye wateringly expensive and has got worse with the crap exchange rate.

In reply to Cornish boy:

I'll second Harry, that i wouldn't have thought a guide would be necessary in Rjukan, assuming you got gear and general knowledge of ice climbing and ropework. Can't imagine an easier place to just go to, and with Heavy Water in hand, just go for it.

In februrary, barring some weather disaster, everything should be in condition. So just start with a few low-grade, starred, easy accessible routes, to get the feel for the grades and ice and then take it from there.

In reply to Mr Andersson: I'd reccomend the Old School Hostel http://www.oldschoolhostel.no/

Good atmosphere and kitchen.

In reply to Cornish boy:
Second on the http://www.oldschoolhostel.no Really comfy, and great value, much cheaper then Climb inn. There is a big kitchen/dining room where people hang out in the evening.
As others have mentiond bring booze from home!!
Ill be going there a couple of times this winter, about 8 hrs drive from here in copenhagen.

In reply to Mr Andersson:

An unbiased third on the hostel! Its got a brilliant atmosphere and very rarely has anyone other than ice climbers staying (I worked there last season). Send Jakob an email through the website and he'll sort you out with a room. Remember the alcohol limits for Norway are strict and they fine you as well as taking it off you if you're over!

In reply to Cornish boy: Im going out there from 02/02 till 14/02 with a couple of mates we are staying at the Hyttaby,have stayed there the last 4 years,its not the cheapest,but theres no much in it,as mentioned above dont think u will need a guide as there is so much easier stuff till u find your feet,but my opinion is a car is essential,for travelling further,hate to state the obvious,most things are expensive in Norway,we try and take as much food stuff as the baggage allowance will allow,if u r around there on the above dates,drop me a line if you want to meet up, need any advice,u will luv it as long as the winter is not a disaster
cheers

In reply to chris1965: We all going out together on 11th feb till 18th feb, fly to oslo then car to hyttaby so looks like we will get to cross paths. We have a guide booked for the first sunday there, plan is to really brush up on our skills and show us around. Be good to meet up with you guys, share a few beers and maybe a climb or two.Not sure what grade you climbing at and maybe a bit ambitious but would love to do a couple of WI4 if could drag the youngest, most flexible, ambitious 43 year old hardest bastard you've ever met with a f*cked knee and a slightly f*cked back!
Having never climbed on pure water ice I'm a beginner. Please challenge me to at least follow you on something like Gaustaspokelse???

Gausta Marathon - really appealing. A long 800m day out, not sure our lads would be up for this and may require a good deal of speed for a big day. Would love to do this!
We are a very mixed bunch who love a laugh more than than anything else. Rjukan for us is a holiday and maybe a chance to push our grades (for me maybe more so) and improve our uk winter skills.
More importantly, to have a few beers and take the piss. Looking forward to meeting you there or if you around the roaches or snowdonia in the next few weeks let us know ( I have a some accomodation in snowdonia). Thx Lee

In reply to Cornish boy:

have a long rope or climb with two ropes for ease of abseil.

id suggest the guide is unnecessary

spend some time in the Climb Inn

In reply to Cornish boy:
The ascent of Gaustatoppen is straightforward,all the usual issues as normal in winter, its cold and if misty concentrate on nav. There is a little bothy that is open at the start of the summit ridge. The ridge is fun but watch out for big lumps of ice falling off the radio tower near the bothy.

In reply to johnby: Many thanks to everyone for all the great advice for our forthcoming trip. Really appreciate it. Cheers

In reply to smuffy:
Just bought a pair of Petzl Quarks- are they any good?!!