UKC

NEW REVIEW: Wild Country Heliums: Meet Some New Friends

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 UKC Gear 19 Sep 2011
Slotting cams into True Moments/Freebird - Castel Helen, 3 kbThe new Helium Friends are finally here, and Viv Scott has been testing them out. The review includes an explanation from Wild Country on why and how they changed the ergonomics of their new Friends. There's also a table comparing its vital stats against the DMM Dragon Cams and the Black Diamond Camalots.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=4017
 CurlyStevo 19 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Gear:
I'm a bit disapointed WC didn't reduce the headwidth in the smaller sizes to be more in line with the metolius master cams. Ok they are only around 10 - 15% wider (and a few are the same width), but with these smaller size cams it does make a significant difference.
 franksnb 19 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: my girlfriend struggles with the trigger length on the black diamonds, in the larger sizes. these look even worse.
Shirebikes 19 Sep 2011
In reply to franksnb: Having actually used a set they are fairly small hand friendly.
 Toerag 20 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: nothing matters apart from head width - if the head doesn't fit in a hole then you're stuffed. In this respect the small dragons win hands down.
Shirebikes 20 Sep 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: dragon #1 - 45.2mm, HF #1.5 (comparable size) - 47.2mm... 2mm in it.

HF #1 - 45.5mm
HF #0.5 - 41.7mm
HF #0 - 41.2mm
In reply to Toerag:
> (In reply to UKC Gear) nothing matters apart from head width - if the head doesn't fit in a hole then you're stuffed. In this respect the small dragons win hands down.

But narrower head width = more prone to walking



 Timmd 20 Sep 2011
In reply to victim of mathematics:
> (In reply to Toerag)
> [...]
>
> But narrower head width = more prone to walking

Unless you have strong enough springs?
 CurlyStevo 20 Sep 2011
In reply to victim of mathematics:
not extended enough = walking
 pedropierre 07 Oct 2011
In reply to UKC Gear: I waited for the heliums to come out before replacing some small black diamond friends - I hate cams that are 'sticky/crunchy' as I worry they just don't spring out properly when I place them - I tried the Helium friends in a couple of retail shops - all were crunchy - so I bought camelots which are very smooth.

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