UKC

On a one month bouldering trip to mainland Europe, Clare Curling ticked the Swiss boulder problem of Zentrale Traverse (7C+/8A) in the Sustenpass.

Clare's trip took her from Fontainebleau to Chamonix, then to the Gottard Pass in Switzerland and then on to Italy and Austria.

Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=64217

These tea drinking, grubby teacher types are all the same getting a years pay and then slacking off during the summer months climbing when they should be preparing the curriculum for the new year. Won't someone please think of the children!

Jokes side well done Clare bear, was an epic showing and am super proud of you! Time to get training for next years trip!

In reply to EscapeArtist:

Is that le John Gill?

I've never heard of CC, but good for her. Are there loads of Brit women bouldering 8a I've never heard of, then, or is CC just the unassuming type?

jcm

In reply to UKC News: Is there a video of this boulder somewhere around? Doing it without conventions with a sitstart at the left arete and just traversing right below the roof finishing with the lip traverse is never 8a, nor 7c+ for that matter.

Well done Clare.

In reply to Michael DD:
Whether it's 8a, 7c or whatever, it's a standard only reached by a handful of British women so far, and Leah Crane is the only other reported Brit woman to have done the problem, with no mention of it being wildly soft:
http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/item.php?id=57946

In reply to switch:

well done clare!!! but the legend to the pic is not correct! clare is not near the end of "zentrale traverse" at all.

"zentrale traverse" does not exit at the lip where clare can be seen in the pic in the news. coming from the left you climb at the lip but then "zentrale traverse" is going (down) to the right (pretty much where clare can be seen on the pic) for another 10m and has a pretty nasty (crux) exit to the very right.

In reply to UKC News: There you go, in the "Alpen en bloc" it is described the way Clare (and I) did it, traversing the lip she has got in her hands till the end. So in reality it traverses below that and exits via the 7a-Dyno far to the right?

In reply to Michael DD:

i dont have the "alpen en bloc". but traversing the lip to the top is not "zentrale-traverse" (but it looks like a nice problem for itself). its like you have written; "zentrale-traverse" traverses below and exits via the 7a-dyno far right!



bit off-topic here but important nevertheless, cause its a shame that people get missleaded (and pay for that):

looks like the "alpen en bloc" got it wrong, but its quite common that people who like to make "business" with guides tend to not work too carefully cause that woud be too costy (time!). friends have seen how (not the "alpen en bloc") an editor has "worked" his way through an (very popular) area and it was to say at least; embarrassing!!! to point that out: you can see at the webpage of the "new swiss bloc" guide a pic of how the guide is made up. it looks nice, but there is an (important) error on that very picture that shoud make add for the guidebook. the boulder "devils and dust" does not start sitting all the way down - thats still a project - it starts at the lip. it would have been easy to find that out... but if you dont take your time and want to make monney...

In reply to martin77:
wot. on. earth?!?!