In reply to mlmatt:
I was part of an interesting discussion on this very topic last night. A few thoughts:
- if you remove some piece of fixed protection altogether, is it still the same route with a different grade, or a different route?
- Placed-on-lead fixed gear, such as pegs, provide a far greater degree of security to the first ascentionist than to some later climber who has less knowledge about the condition of the gear. In effect, making the route harder for later climbers.
- Depending upon how you deal with risk on the lead (in your own mind, in terms of decision-making) a shoddy bit of fixed gear can be worthless anyway, and might as well not be there.
There was one route discussed yesterday, which I don't remember the name of. The sole bolt protected against an otherwise unprotectable ground fall. Some of those "in the know" suggested the route would go from E6 to E9 were the bolt removed.