UKC

I'm off to the Tarn for the first time on Saturday. Looking for some recommendations for really inspiring routes to work. What are peoples' favorites?

I'm looking for things about 7b, or maybe 7b+ if it suits me. Most of my sport climbing is at Cheedale, so anythng with sections more than 15m or so without a good shake-out is going to be a challenge.

Thanks

In reply to Si dH:
PS Ive seen the article on here from Kev Avery, which is cool. Wondering though if people have others to recommend!

In reply to Si dH:

Worth expanding the query to the other venues too Si - there's a big chunk of the Tarn closed off at the minute so worth looking elsewhere as well...

In reply to AJM:
Keen for Boffi too but figured if that's a bit further away Id probably try and get some mileage in when we went there rather than get stuck in to a project? (unless some of you gusy want to spend longer there)
Do you happen to know which tarn sectors are shut off-hand?

In reply to Si dH:

It's near as the same distance to drive as the Tarn probably, just a longer walkin.

I'd happily spend all week at Boffi if I had to. I want to go elsewhere mind you, but I wouldn't object if I were forced to... I'm currently thinking of our 7.5 (ish - maybe a bit less on the last day before the flight) days I'll probably only spend a day or two in the Tarn - definitely want at least 2 in the Jonte though, hopefully one easy one hard.

I am not really intending to get stuck into a project, since personally I tend to think it's a bad idea on short trips, too much risk of not completing and adds complexity to the location choices. but if I were looking for something at that sort of grade I'd go for Sac a Glue at Boffi - everyone I know who has done it raves about it and it looks mega. Plus it's on one of the most varied and substantial sectors (Damned) at Boffi so there's plenty of variety for belayers who aren't projecting.

In terms of what is closed, there's a good post on UKB, on a thread called "Tarn - problems with the bolts" or something with a lot of info on it. On top of that, I've had some info from Adrian which suggests that sectors : "gymnase", "trone", "patrone", "diabologum", "shadocks" and also "la tour" and "zone d'ombre" are now in theory banned (although maybe still bolted) due to landowner disputes.

In reply to AJM:

Oh, and how did your day go today - project ticked? And what news of your friend?

In reply to Si dH:

Make sure you do Tresor du Zebre. One of the best 7as anywhere.

In reply to AJM: Cheers Andy. Just searched and found something on 8a.nu that suggest amphi, navire, gymnase, oasif and half of tennesse (but not the half with the classics apparently) are shut. I guess we can work out what is left from the guidebook?
I'm keen for Boffi too if its not much further. I do want to find something to work though. Hopefully this can be at a sector with lots of routes others want ot do anyway so it wont matter. I dont really want to go multi pitching to be honest (maybe a long 6a/b as a rest day) but Im sure we can work something out between us all.

Had 4 RP attempts at Bored of the Lies today; first two times I fell off the penultimate move, then realised I was using the wrong foothold, and the next two attempts I fell off the last move. For reference this is after 15m of hard climbing, well past the crux, and the finishing sequence is only about 5c, just steep. Arggghhh. (I need ukb's funny faces at this point)
Hoping to take Tuesday afternoon off and go back to do it. Really want it ticked!

In reply to 205Chris:
Cheers Chris, will do!

In reply to Si dH:

That info on 8a matches the notes I've made except for Tennessee, but most of the really stunning stuff there looks very hard anyway so it hadn't fussed me too much either way. If the thing suggests some route names that are open and closed I'll add it to the info I've noted down already - My guidebook has little postit notes stuck throughout it to show whats open and closed

Yeah, each to their own on the route choices. Personally I want to do something with Ali one day, but there's also some 3 pitch 6c-7a routes which I'm well psyched to have a crack at if a willing victim can be found - I reckon Alex might be persuadable

Good luck for Tuesday. Sounds like you're close!

In reply to AJM:

Shadocks was Ok this summer, may have had trouble since?

To OP Figues au Cul has a nice, long 7c, right next to the road.

In reply to winhill:

The info I had from Adrian was no older than this summer some time, so pretty recent, I think more so than the UKB post I mentioned earlier. I think it said that the routes were still bolted so there were people still climbing them regardless.

Si: just had a look and the long 7b corner at Tennessee, which looks like an awesome line in the topo photo, has been logged a few times this year on 8a. The other one, nom de moustejols, hasn't.

In reply to AJM: When I was there in April many routes had been completely debolted, and some even had a 'no entry' sign fixed where the first bolt used to be. Can't remember which sectors were affected though.